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WILLIAM H. SEWARD'S
mesh
| TRAVELS AROUND THE WORLD.
EDITED BY a
OLIVE RISLEY SEWARD. ct
n
i
“ A mighty maze, but not without a plan.”
Po
WITH NUMEROTS ILLUSTRATIONS.
ERC WRC IRE SLY 5.55 ec cin CRN PRE N
ty
ri
NEW YORK: (2
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, r
549 & 551 BROADWAY.
1873,
ae intact Ua
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PROPERTY Ge
on yy ye VATE OS oH
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by Witu1am H. Sewarp, Jr., Executor,
and OLIVE Risity Sewarb, Avecutria, of the last Will and Testament of WILLiAm
H. Sewarb, deceased, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
4
‘
Benes
UNITE:
Cuap.
I, AuBurN To §
Neighbors.
ence of Imr
—Mississip
of States.-
Western S
States.— SI
Salt Lake ¢
Young’s §
Utah.—The
Railroads,—
cisco.—Civi
II. From San Fr.
low-Passeng
sengers.—T
Greater Ev
End.—The
J.
I, YoKOWAMA AN
—Native Ca
Gardens, at
Status of B
II. Visir to Yep!
Prime-Minis
and the Tyc
Saghalien.—
of Yeddo,.—
NII, From Yeppo re
—The Gulf
coon’s Cast
of Nagasak
flections on.
CONTENTS.
PART I.
UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN.
Cuar.
I, Auburn To San Francisco: Mr. Seward’s Companions.—His Farewell to his
Neighbors,x—Western New York.—Niagara.—Canada and its Destiny.—Influ-
ence of Immigration.—A frico-Americans.—Detroit.—-Chicago.—President Grant.
—Mississippi and Missouri Rivers.—Cedar Rapids. —Omaha.—New Classification
of States—Council Bluffs.—Bridges over Navigable Rivers.—Settlement of
Western States.—Cheyenne.—The Rocky Mvuntains.—Infuence of Mountain
States.— Sherman.— Separation.— Mountain Nomenclature.—Weber Cafion.—
Salt Lake City.—Tiie Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood.—Brigham
Young’s Sermon.—His Family. Polygamy.—The Irrepressible Conflict in
eecutor,
fapraae Utah.—The Shoshones.—Destiny of the Indians.—Sierra Nevada.—Reno.—
on. Railroads,—Result of Abolition of Slavery —Sacramento.—Arrival at San Fran-
cisco.—-Civilization of California—Chinese Immigration, . , 3
II. From San Francisco to Japan: The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. ili Fel.
low-Passengers.—" The Great Company of the Preachers.”—The Chinese Pas.
sengers.—The Great Event of the Voyage.—The Moods of tie Sea—A Still
Greater Event.—The Loss of a Day.—The Gyascutus.—The Beginning of the
End.—The Coast of Japan.—The Ocean-Fisheries, . : F ' . i
PART II.
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
I. Yokouama AND 1/8 Vicinity: The Bay of Yokohama.—Natives and Forcigners.
—Native Costuries.—Japanese Barbers.—The Tokaido.—Japanese Cemeteries,
Gardens, and Temples.—Monks and “ionasteries—Kamakura.—The Great
Status of Buddha.—The Daibutz, . ‘ . . . 89
II. Visir to YeEpDpDO,—INTERVIEW WITH THE Mrxapo: Thterview with the Japanese
Prime-Minister.—Tremendous Storm.—Some Points of History.x—The Mikado
and the Tycoon.—Japanese Foreign Office.—Minister Sawa.—The Question of
2 Saghalien.—The Ton.bs of the Tycoons.—-A Speck of War.—The Delmorico
8 of Yeddo.—Sketches of Yeddo.—The Interview with the Mikado, . . 538
a MII. From Yeppo to SHaneuar: Hiogo.—The Place of Massacre.—A Japanese Steamer.
E —The Gulf of Osaka.—A Harem ona Picnic.—The City of Osaka.—The Ty-
coon’s Castle.—Japanese Troops.—Nagasaki.—Beautiful Scenery,—Christians
of Nagasakii—Japanese Character.—Departure ior China.—Concluding Re-
flections on Japan, . : F , . : : : ; ; : 86
iv CONTENTS.
Crap,
IV. Tne Coast or Cuiva: Wovsung.—U. 8. Ship Colorado,—Shanghai.—European
“ Concessions.’—A. Mandarin Procession.--Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen,—Euro-
pean and Chinese Civilization.—Foreign Prejudices against the Chinese.—The
Shan Tung.—The Yellow Sea,—The News from France.—Chee-loo, the New-
port of China.—A Rough Voyage, ‘ , » 105
V. Up tue Per-no River: Mouth of the ‘Pei- ho. muGlhiuees Ports: wAmartoain Guns.—
The Most Crooked and Mean of Rivers.—Chinese Dogs.—A Misunderstanding,
—Captain Wang.—Our Flotilla.—The City of Tien-Tsin.—Aspect of the Coun-
try.—Our Boat-Life-—Absence of Animals.—A Messenger from Peking.—A
Chinese Trader.—Tung-Chow, ; ; ‘ 123
VI. ArrivaL at Pexina; Passing through Tung Sow, axtledi Behavi ior of the People.
—The Road to Peking.—A Dangerous Highway.—Daniel Webster and John
Adams.—A Review of Our Party.—A Grotesque Procession.—The Eastern Gate
of Peking.—The Separation of the Party.—Anxiety for Mr. Seward.—In Woful
Plight.—An Explanation.—Arrival at the U. 8. Legation, . : : 138
VII. Restpence 1n Pexina: Aspect of Peking.—The Walk on the Wall.—The Foreign
Population of Peking.—Two American Chinese.—Native Wares.—The Foreign
Ministers.—The Russian Minister—The British Legation—Influence of the
United States.—The Hall of Science.—Mr, Seward’s Audience with the Imperial
Cabinet.—A. Ladies’ Day.—Chinese Ladies.—A Chinese Mansion, ; 145
VIII. Resipence 1n Pexina (Continued): The Decay of China.—The Temple of Heaven.
—The Temple of Agriculture—The Temple of Buddha.—The Chinese Bonzes.
—The Temple of Confucius.—The Religion of China.—A Pleasant Reunion.—
The Birds of Peking —An Official Dilemma.—Interview with Wau-Siang.—In-
fluence of Burlingame, . ‘ . ; 168
IX. Visir to THE Great WALL: Bigparalons foi itis Trip. (ur Vehicles.—The
Summer Palace.—Pagodas.—First Night under a Chinese Roof.—A Chinese
Tavern.—Approach to the Great Wall—The Mongolians.—The Cost of the
Wall.—Inquisitive Chinese.-—The Second Wall.—The Ming Tombs.—A Mis-
guided Mule, ‘ F . : 188
X. Last Days in Pexina: Cham-Ping- chow, —A ‘Chitnbss init _The Roman Catho-
lics in China.—The Cathedral.—The Tien-Tsin Massacre.—Christian Policy.—
Interview with Robert Hart.—A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen.—Letter
from Prince Kung.—Interview with the Prince—The Prince’s Present.—De-
parture from Peking, . : ‘ . : ‘ 211
XI. Toe Return to SHancuar: Once more on ‘he Pei. ho, —The Dndiee at Tien-Tsin.
—The Shan Tung.—Pigeon English.—Tempestuous Weather.—Visit to the
Flag-ship Colorado.—Departure of Mr. and Mrs. Randall.—On board the Plym-
outh Rock, . ‘ ‘ . . . 222
XII. Up tne Yang-1e-Krana: The Mississippi of China—c Stns Rtaaign —Large Freights.
—Nanking.—The Porcelain Tower.—A Specimen Brick.—Abundance of Game.
—Scenery on the River.—Ku-Kiang.—Conversation with Mr. Drew.—Policy of
the United States.—Han-Kow.—Ascent of the Promontory.—Magnificent View,
—Cheerful Aspect of Han-Kow.—Excursion to Woo-Chang.—A i
Adventure, . : ; ; 227
XIII. Rerurny to Ssaneuar: Departure from Han. Row, Chinese Military Art. =k
Marvellous Echo.—The Imperial Canal.—Approach to Chin-Kiang.—The
United States Steamer Alaska.—Running down a Junk.—An Apology from
the Viceroy.—The Comprador.--Chinese Ladies—Embark on an English
Steamer, ; ; F : ; : ‘ ; F ‘ : 3 241
CuaP,
XIV. From Sia
men,—'
Acquain
XV. From Hon
—Canto
America
—Manu
XVI. Canton (
School-1
The Chi
cution,—
XVII, At Hona-
Fisherie
Dinner :
Eastern
XVIII A Grance
Fellow-!
French .
bodia,
THE EAST.
I. Tae Cnn.
Home.—
Boston.-
—A Du
and Sun
II. Tre Capit
England
—The ¢
—The |
Zorg, .
III. Excursion
Flowers
is gover’
—The R
IV. Mr. Sewa
The Wa
—A Ch
ban.—P
The Jap
V. At Batav
fast.—A.
Dutch C
VI. From Bar
Singapo:
—Bay o
Galle—
-European
on.—Kuro-
iese.—The
the New-
105
in Guns,—
standing,
the Coun-
eking.—A
123
he People.
and John
stern Gate
-In Woful
: 138
he Foreign
1e Foreign
ce of the
ie Imperial
. 145
of Heaven.
se Bonzes,
Reunion.—
jiang.—In-
‘ 168
cles.—The
A Chinese
st of the
—A Mis-
‘ 188
an Catho-
Policy.—
n.—Letter
sent.—De-
‘ 211
Tien-Tsin,
sit to the
the Plym-
. 222
> Freights.
of Game.
Policy of
Pent View,
agreeable
. 227
y Art.—A
ng. — The
logy from
h English
: 241
Ra Nn a a i ain A
i
y
¢
Mh
¢
r
RS
Sore ees ea eR ee a
iT
ae:
CONTENTS. Vv
Cup,
XIV, From Saancnat to Hona-Kona: Bad Weather.—Cold Weather.—Varicty of Sea-
men.—The Ship’s Accommodations. —Hong-Kong.—Beautiful Scenery. —Old
Acquaintances renewed.—Native and Foreign Population, . ‘ ‘ 249
XV. From Hona-Kona to Canton; The Chinese Coasting-Trade,—Chinese Smugglers,
—Cantor River-Banks.— Aspect of Canton.—The British Concession,— The
American Hongs.—The Consul and the Tou-taii—The Diet of the Cantonese.
—Manufactures of Canton.—The Temples of Canton, ; F 253
XVI. Canton (Continued); A Chinese Villa —The Hall of AnoeatoracuA Chinese
School-Room.—Another Villaa—An Opium-Den,—Extent of Opium-Smoking.—
The Chinese Chronometer.—The Street of Malefactors.—The Place of Exe-
cution.—A City of the Dead.—Canton at Night, : ; i ‘ 265
XVII, Ar Hona-Kona aagaty: Chinese Emigration to the United States—The Canton
Fisheries—-American Houses in China.—A Combination of Gamblers. —A
Dinner at the United States Consulate—Mr. Seward’s Speech.—Oriental and
Eastern Civilization.—Policy of China.—Prospects of China, . . 275
XVIII A Grance at Cocnin Caixa: The Steamer Provence.—Island of Hainan.—Our
Fellow-Passengers.—The Mouth of the Saigon River.—The City of Suigon—
French Aptitude for Colonization.—French Photographs,—The Queen of Cam-
bodia, : ‘ P ; F ‘ ; ; ; : ‘ . 284
PART III.
THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, STrAITS OF MALACCA, AND
CEYLON.
I. Tae Cntna Sea, Singapore, AND THE Straits or Sunpa: Our Distance from
Home.—Calm Seas and Temperate Breezes.—Singapore.—A Dispatch from
Boston.—The People of Singapore.—Their Habitations.—Life in the Tropics.
—A Dutch Steamer.—Our Crew.—A Question of Races.—Rather Hot.—Banca
and Sumatra.—The Straits of Sunda, . : 295
II, Tre Capitan or Java: The City of Batavia. —The Hotel des Tades, —A New-
England Sabbath.—Malay Servants.—The King’s Plain.—Population of Java,
—The Queen of the East.—Departure for Buitenzorg.—Manner of Travelling.
—The peer Residence.—The Climate of Java.—The Baths of Buiten-
zorg, . . . 304
II. Excursion INTO THE Ierenton : A Balking Horse. —Cultiv ation of Rice.—Tropical
Flowers.—Surabaya.—The Regent Prawiro.—Dutch Colonization—How Java
is governed.—Bandong.—The Regent and the Interpreter—A Gouty Monarch.
—The Regent’s Income.—How he spends it, é i , . 318
IV. Mr. Sewarp at Banpone: Excursion to the Cascade. an Perilous Road.—
The Water-Fall—An Evering at the Palace.—The Bayaderes.—Two Dwarfs.
—A Chorus of Peasants.—The Little Princesses—An Excursion to Tankoe-
ban.—Peruvian Bark.—The Top of the Voleano.—An Enchanting Scene.—
The Japanese Prince, ‘ . ‘ ‘ : 328
V. At Batavia AGAINK—THE Matays: Farewell to Bandong: = Tropical Break-
fast.—A Breakfast in the Botanical Gardens.—A Princely Native Artist.—
Dutch Colonization.—Character of the Malay Race.—Chinese Immigration, 336
VI. From Batavia to Mavras: An Uncomfortable Steamer—An Accident.—At
Singapore.—British Hospitality. —The Port of Penang.—A Loyal Englishman.
—Bay of Bengal.—Half-Way Round the Worid.—Arrival at Ceylon.—Point de
Galle—A Short Visit to the Shore.—A Hindoo Crew.—Off Pondicherry, 341
us BRS
= ee +
Cuap.
II.
_—
III.
IV.
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
CONTENTS.
PART IV.
BRITISH INDIA,
Mapras: Madras from the Sea.—Governor Napier.—The Government House,—
A Hindoo Girls’ School.—Bishop Heber.—British Dominion in India.—Rear-
Admiral Cockburn,—Machinery of Government.—A Meeting of the Executive
Council.—Lord Cornwallis.—The Legislative Council—Hindoo Music, . 3853
Mapras (Continue?); An Excursion to Arcot.—Railroads in Hindostan,—Ap-
pearance of the Country.—The Homage of Flowers,—Cauverypak.—The Na-
tive System of Cultivation.—Visit to a Bramin.—Schools,—A Car of Jugger-
naut.—The Dutch Reformed Mission—Back to Madras.—The Portuguese
Settlement.—Gindy Park,—A Diamond Merchant.—Lord and Lady Naplor, —
The Normal School, . ‘ ‘ 365
From Mapras to Cancutra: The Surf at Madras, —On the Be ay of Bengal._—
The Lion-Whelps.—The Hoogly.—The Viceroy’s Invitation—Earl and Count-
ess Mayo.—Glimpses of Calcuttaa—The Baboo.—The Baboo’s House and
Harem.—The Government House, , , . 3877
Catcutta (Continued): The Maharajah of Puttecala, ~0r fental Magnificence.—
Kali Ghaut.— The Temple.—Hindoo Idols.— Kali.— Siva— A Mohammedan
Mosque.—The Reading of the Budget.—Indian Finances.—The King of Oude.
—The Prince of Oude, . : : 388
. BarrackPoreE AND SéRAMPORE: Barrackpore Park and its Beauties. —Magnitfi-
cent Trees—The Menageric—The Lion-Whelps.—Serampore.—Its Mission-
aries and Mission-Schools,x—Return from Barrackpore.—Fort William.—The
Woman’s Union Missionary Society and its Schools, . . ‘ : 898
From CaucuTta To Brenares: Courtesy of the East India Railway Company.—
Unattractive Scenery.—The Scenery improves.—Aspect of the Country and
the People—A Stop at Patna—A Tiger Hunter.—The Cultivation of the
Poppy.—The Maharajah of Benares.—A Night on the Ganges.—A Brilliant
Display.—Glory Hallelujah.—A Compliment to Mr. Seward, : . 402
Benares: The Sacred City of the Hindoos.—The Cradle of Buddhism.—Sarnath.
—Remarkable Towers.—The Holy River.—The Ghauts.—Singular Architecture.
—The Mosques and their Minarets.—A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank.
—£ a and Doorga.—Manufacture of Idols.—Magnificence of Benares, . 408
ALLAHABAD, Lucknow, aNnD AGra: Allahabad, the City of God.—Cawnpore.—
Lucknow, the Capital of Oude.—Extent of the Country.—Arrival at Agra —A
Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empire—Akbar the Great.—His
Vast Architectural Works.—The Pearl Mosque.—Futtehpore Sikra.—Its Great
Wall.—The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishtii—The Panch Mahal.—Akbar’s Tomb.
—His Wealth.—His Horses and his Elephants.—Weighing his Presents, 418
SECUNDRA AND THE TaJ-ManaL: The Tomb of Akbar.—Derivation of the Name
of Secundra.—The Taj-Mahal, the Tomb of the Banoo Begum.—Description
of the Taj—The Tomb of King Cotton.—The Inferiority of Indian Cotton.—
Mode of packing it, . ‘ , 438
DeELuI, THE Moacut Capitan: A Vivid Contrast to Agric etudlon Castle. — Brief
Sketch of Hindoo History.—The Persians.—The Greeks.—The Arabs.—Sultan
Mahmoud.— The Mongols or Moguls.— Foundation of Delhi. — Successive
Changes of Site——The Kootub Minar—A Singular Iron Shaft.—The Mogul
Tombs.—The Tomb of Jehanara.—The Jumna Musjid.—The Imperial Palace.
—Farewell to Delhi, . : ; A : : : ‘ : 441
ears “to etch
Lh SET
pee saR
4
Re
'
r
44
st
a
Wy
Sain aes
a
be
%
Coar.
XI. UmMBaLia
Mutiny.
Putteeala
—Entran
XII, Purreeata
The Pris
glers.—T
The Your
rajah’s Cq
XIII. A GLance
of the J
luminatio
the Hima
XIV. ALLAHABAD
of India.
bulpoor.
and Beau
XV. Bombay: T]
bay.—A
Afghan, a
and the
and Parse
Excursio
XVI. An Excoursi
dicament..:
History o
Character
Reminisce
XVII. Last Days
ful Ackn
Indies of
ble-—The
—Departv
XVIII. From Boma.
ard’s Ren
doo Mind
of Socotr:
A New St
I. Toe Rep S
The Port
the Red
Track of
Tnaugura
ouse,—
—Rear-
‘ecutive
853
1—Ap-
he Na-
Jugger-
luguese
pier.—
3865
ngal,_—
Count-
ec and
3877
enee,—
imedan
’ Oude.
388
fagnitfi-
lission-
.—The
898
any.—
ry and
lof the
rilliant
402
brnath.
cture.
Bank.
408
ore.—
a—A
—His
Great
Tomb.
418
Name
iption
on.—
433
Brief
bultan
ssive
fogul
hlace.
441
a
a
ead oa ae ete
a
CONTENTS. rst
Car.
XI. Umpatna anp Potteratra: Meerut, the Scene of the Outbreak of the Great
Mutiny.—Hindoo Pilgrims.—First View of the Himalayas.—Invitations to
Puttecala.—Journey thither.—The City of Putteeala.—Coaches or Elephants ?
—Entrance into Putteeala—A Magnificent Procession.—Our Palace, . 452
XII. Porreraua (Continued): Oriental Displays and Diversions.—The Menagerie.—
The Prisons.—The Heir-Apparent.—An Elephant-Fight.—Jesters and Jug-
glers.—The Royal Palace.—Magnificence of the Maharajah.—The Durbar.—
The Young Prince.—Superb Presents.—A Magnificent Salon—The Maha-
rajah’s Conversation with Mr. Seward.—An Exhibition of Fireworks, . 459
XIII. A Gnuance at tHe Himatayas: Departure from Putteeala—Along the Banks
of the Jumna.—Protection from the Sun,—Reception at Pindarrie—An Il.
lumination.—Kalka and Kussowlee.—The British Commissioner—A View of
the Himalayas,—An Irish Home, ‘ F : : ‘ ‘ 471
XIV. ALLAHABAD AND JuBBULPOOR: An Interesting Debate, Fart Mayo, the Viceroy
of India.—His Murder.—The Vindhya Mountains.—Industrial Activity of Jub-
bulpoor.—An Elephant-Ride.—A Night Voyage on the Nerbudda,—Romantic
and Beautiful Scenery.—Hindoo Tenderness for Animals, . ‘ ‘ 477
XV. Bombay: The Ghaut Mountains.—A Cosmopolitan City—The Natives of Bom-
bay.—A Mixed Population.—Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh,
Afghan, and Cashmerian.—The Races of the South and the North, of the East
and the West.—Parsee Customs.—Parsee Religion—Hindoo, Mohammedan,
and Parsee Disposal of the Dead.—Admiral Cockburn.—The Great Heat.—An
Excursion to Elephanta, . . . ‘ P ; . 482
XVI. An Excursion to Goa: A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar, —A Perilous Pre-
dicament.—Dubious Navigation.—Situation of Goa.—Official Courtesies.—
History of Goa.—The Old City—St, Francis Xavier.—Miraculous Cures,—
Character of Xavier.—Public Institutions.—The Governor’s Villa.—Historical
Reminiscences,—A Goa Poet.—A Cordial Farewell, . : 492
XVII. Last Days 1v BomBay: The Byculla Club—Mr. Seward’s Speesk, Tis Grate-
ful Acknowledgments to his Entertainers.—The Indies of the East and the
Indies of the West.—Growing Civilization of the East.—A Progress irresisti-
ble-—The New Concord.—Policy of the Anglo-Saxon Race.—Miss Wessner.
—Departure from Bombay, ‘ : ; ; . : F ‘ 501
XVIII. From Bompay to ApEN: Once more at Sea.—The Steamer Deccan,—Mr. Sew-
ard’s Remarks on India.—Natural Religion—The Characteristics of the Hin-
doo Mind.—England’s Hold on India.—The Regeneration of India.—The Island
of Socotra.—Arrival at Aden.—An Extinct Volcano.—Wise Old England !—
A New Stage of the Voyage.—Red-Haired Negroes, . ; ; : 506
PART V.
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
I. Toe Rep Sra anp Suez Canat: The Gate of Tears——The Rock of Perim.—
The Port of Mecca.—Imaginary Terrors,—Pleasant Weather.—The Coasts of
the Red Sea.—The Division of the Races.—A Refreshing Atmosphere.—The
Track of the Israelites.—Suez.—The Ancient Canal—The New Canal.—lIts
Inauguration.—Its Prospects, . : ‘ - F , ‘ ; 519
vill CONTENTS.
Cnap.
Il. Fro Svez to Carro: The Bedouin Arabs.—A Wady.—Goshen.—Nubian Troops.
—A Splendid Sunset.—The Palace of Repose.—The Khédive.-—The Popula-
tion ot Egypt.—The Khédive’s Improvements.—A Visit to the Harem.—The
Female Slaves.—Egypt and Utah, ; ; ‘ . 5 ‘ ‘ 528
III. Carro anp tHe Pyramips: The Road to the Pyramids,—The Style of the Vice-
roy.—Interior of the Great Pyramid.—The Sphinx.—Mariette Bey.—Use of
the Pyramids.—Rapacious Arabs.—The Phenix.—The Site of On.—Ruins of
Heliopolis.—The Tree of the Holy Family—Mohammed Tauphik,—The Amer-
icans in Egypt.—The Citadel of Cairo—A Museum of Antiquities.—Modern
Cairo.—-The Copts.—The Nilometer.—The Tombs of the Caliphs.—The Ceme-
teries of Cairo.—The Mosques.—The Dancing Dervishes.—Ghezireh.—Polyga-
my.—Lhe Cairo of To-day, . . . : : . F ; 539
IV. Up tue Nite: Embarkation at Ghizeh—The Pyramids of Saccara.—The Two
Deserts.—-Siout.—The American Vice-Consul.—Sultan Pacha.—Character of
the Nile.—Slave-Boats.—Arab Villagers.—The Birds of the Nile—The Popu-
lation on the Banks.—Domestic Animals.-—Personal Arrangements.—A Tip-
pling Monkey, . ‘ ; ; : : : ; . 559
V. From Axnypos to THEBES: The Ruins of Abydos.—The Sheik of Bellianeh—A
Misunderstandii.g¢.—A Dinner in the Ruins.—A Night in the Temple.—Explor-
ing the Ruins.-By whom were they built?—Germs of Religious Ideas.—The
Temple of Dendera.—Mr. Seward’s Birthday, . ‘ : . . 568
VI. Tyesrs anv its Ruins: What Thebes is now.—A Grand Reception—A Fed-
eral Salute—The Scenery of the Nile—The Temple of Luxor.—The Houses
of the Consuls.—History of Luxor.—Karnak.—The Hall of the Gods.—King
Shishak.—Sphinx Avenues.—We dine with the Vice-Consul.—The Colossi.—
The Ancient Tombs.—The Tombs of the Kings—Animal Worship.—Tle Ra-
meseum,—Grandeur of Thebes, . F : ; : ‘ ‘ : 578
VII. Esnen, Eprov, Assovan, anp Pitz: The Coptic Convents.—Youssef and his
Donkey.—Our Steamer aground.—The Ruins of Fsneh.—The Temple of Edfou,
—Assouan.—lts Surprising Activity—Its African Population.—The Ancient
Quarries.—Phile and the Cataracts of the Nile—A Monument of the First
French Republic, , i - . , . : ‘ ‘ : 598
VIII, Last Days 1n Eaypr: The Vice-Consul’s Harem.—Kenneh and its Pottery.—
The Sugar of Egypt.—Memphis.—Its Ruins.—The Downfall of Idol!aters,--
Again at Cairo.—Conversation with a Pacha,—Alexandria.—Aspect of the
City.—Interview with the Khédive.—Sir Henry Bulwer.—Pompey’s Pillar,—
The Khédive’s Yacht.—Concluding Reflections on Egypt, . : F 610
IX. Jervitatem: A Levantine Coasting-Steamer.—The Green Fields of Sharon.—Jaffa.
—Ramleh.—Lydda,.—Rural Population.—First View of Jerusalem.—Mr, Sew-
ard’s Reception—The Sultan’s Firman,—Church of the Holy Sepulchre.—
Religious Intolerance.—Mount Calvary,—The Via Dolorosa.—The Mosque of
Omar.—The Mosque El-Aksa, . ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ; ; ’ 625
X. Jervsatem anp 178 Nerausornoop: Bethlehen.—The Grave of Rachel.—The
City of Jerusalem.—The Mount of Olives-The Tomb of Zachariah,—The
Tomb of Absalom.—An American Jew,— Bethany.—Pilate’s Palace.—The
Greek Church in Palestine.——-The Jews of Jerusalem.—Their Wailing-Place.—-
The Jewish Sabbath.—Attendance s+ the Synagogue—Bishop Gobat.—De-
parture from Jerusalem.—Jaffa and Beirut, ‘ P ‘ . . 645
a
‘ie
oa
na ee
Crap.
Xu. Frou P.
Egypti
we ow
The
Sleepe
Greece
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sus,—]
Egypt
Marmo
that E
Charm
lege. —
—Kian
nople,
II, Huncary
Germar
of the
—Cont
Bridge
Danube
III. Irary: V
City. —
with th
—Napl
ples, tl
Italy,
IV. Switzer.
Passpor
and Pol
Mr. W:
Dinner
M. Lab
pects of
V. Germany,
—The ¢
Free Ci
Greatne
Workin
Montro:
bors, .
INDEX, .
[roops.
Popula-
.—The
528
e Vice-
Use of
uins of
. Amer-
Modern
> Ceme-
Polyga-
539
1e Two
eter of
» Popu-
-A Tip-
559
eh.—A
Explor-
3.—The
568
A Fed-
Houses
—King
lossi.—
ue Ra-
578
ind his
Edfou,
ncient
. First
598
ery.—
ers,-—
of the
Nar,—
610
affa,
. Sew-
hre.——
ue of
625
The
The
The
ce.—
—De-
645
a
i
B
a
I. Atiens AND CONSTANTINOPLE:
V. Germany, ENGLAND, AND Hour: Belgium.—Berlin.—Me, Benorot —Humboldt,
CONTENTS. ix
Xu, Frou Parestrne to Greece: Impressions of Palestine—The Egyptian Race.—
Egyptian Civilization —Phoenicia and Palestine—The Four Religions.—What
we owe to the Jews.—Present State of Palestine.—The Island of Cyprus,—
The Cesnola Collection.--Smyrna.—An Excursion to Ephesus—The Seven
Sleepers. —Mr. Wood’s Researches.x—The Temple of Diana—The Isles of
Greece.—Tinos.—The City of Syraa—A ilumination, ; i ‘ 658
PART VI.
EUROPE.
Athens.—The Pireus.—The Hymettus.—The Ilys-
sus.—Mr, Tuckerman.—Queen Olga.—Grecian Ruins compared with those of
Egypt and Hindostan.—Modern Greece, the Mexico of Europe.—The Sea of
Marmora.—Taking Constantinople by Surprise.—A Covtre-temps.—All’s Well
that Ends Well. —The Sultan Abdul-Aziz—A Busy Day. — Excursions,—
Charms of Constantinople-—The Old Seraglio—Fourth of July.—Robert Col-
lege.—The Bos, srus.—Turkish Women.—The New Palace.—Untimely Visit.
—Kiamil Pacha, — Audience with the Be oe from Constanti-
nople, . P ; ‘ ‘ 679
JI, Hungary anp AUSTRIA: Oh the Datahe: -—Varna. Jatiua cebu —Wallachia.—
German Travellers. —What shall we say of Turkey ?—Reiections on the Future
of the Turks.—Orsova.—The Iron Gate.—Hungarian Loyalty.—Buda-Pesth.
—Contrast of European and Asiatic Civilization. —The People of Pesth,—The
Bridge of Buda.—The Buildings of Buda.—The History of Hungary.—The
Danube. —Vienna,—John Jay.-—Count Von Beust.—Politics of Austria, 708
III. Irary: Venice.—American Knights Templars.—Florence.—Attractiveness of the
City —Rome.—The Coliseum.—Cardinal Antonelli and the Pope.—Interview
with the Pope.—The Italian Minister of Foreign Affairs.—The Schools of Art,
—Naples.—Vesuvius.—Early Civilization on the Mediterranean Coast,—Na-
ples, the Newport of the Roman Empire.—Genoa,—Susa.—Prospects of
Italy, : ‘ ; ‘ 724
SWITZERLAND AND France: Geneva, —The Alos, —The Tunnel of Mont Cenis.—-
Passports.x—American Fondness for Switzerland.—Berne.—Swiss Statesmen
and Politics. —Distress of France.—The Franco-German War,—Lord Lyons.—
Mr. Washburne.—Versailles.—The French Assembly.—President Thiers.—A
Dinner with President Thiers.—Condition of France.—M. Drouyn de Lhuys.—
M. Laboulaye.—Dr. Evans and the Empress Eugénie.—Aspect of Paris.x—Pros-
pects of France, : : : ‘ 442
—The German Empire,—Its Rise and Grandeur.—Its Policy —Hamburg.—A
Free City —A Handsome City.—On the Thames,—<Activity of its Commerce.—
Greatness of London.—Government Machinery in Great Pritain.—Its Slow
Working.—Rural Beauty of England.—On Board the Java.—Her Passengers,—
Montrose-on-Hudson,—Return to Auburn.—Mr, Seward’s Speech to his Neigh-
bors, . : . ; . ' ’ : : ‘ , ‘ 765
INDEX, . ‘ é ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ , ‘ ; ‘ ‘ : TiS
t
f
»
»
an & Ge ~~
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE | PAGE
Portrait oF Mr. Sewarp (on steel) | Ji apanese Officer of State. . ... §660
Frontispiece | Japanese Interpreter, in Court Drogas, 62
Mr. Seward’s Garden at Auburn...... 1 | Interior of Sheba...............0- . 64
Mr. Seward’s Home.............6+ 6 Tombs of the Tycoons......... ceeee 66
New Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls. 6 | | Nippon- Bas, Yeddo. . sevcvean OF
Cheyenne... ....... cece eee ee eeee . 11] ' British Legation, Y edd, is Viakemue.aee wees 68
SUM Mit. os eG iiss conwarereoier . 12) Hamagotén..... RO Pa rE Ra. 70
Wahsatch Range.. seeeeeceees 18) Japanese Musician...........6..... 72
Leutze’s “ Course of Empire.” eS antisliss 14 A Book-store at Yeddo............ . 5
Devil’s Gate, Weber Cafion.......... 15 | Daimios’ Quarter, Yeddo........ 78
Pulpit Rock ....... 0... 0c. cece eee . 16) United States Consulate, Hiogo....... 87
Thousand-Mile Tree..... seceeeeeees 17) Temple at Osaka............ 89
Salt Lake Valley................... 18/ Street in Osaka........... sect Veneiens 91
Mormon Tabernacle................ 19, Entrance to Nagasaki. .... vocoereces O4
Brigham Young’s Residence......... 21 Nagasaki Harbor....... re)
The Remnant of a Tribe............ 25} Temple of Buddha at Mageaakl. soave 96
Mouth of Big Cottonwood Cafion..... 26! View of Decima.......... toveernre OF
San Francisco. ........ceessecesees 28 | Woosung...........005 Cakes .. 106
Cliff House, San Fr TANCISCO ... 6. eee 29 | Mandarin Procession............0.5 108
Golden Gate . cs +seeee+ 80} Custom-House, Shanghai............ 111
Meeting of the ‘Steamers in . Mid- ocean, 83 /| Mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang........ 116
Fusi Yama, Coast of Japan......... - 86) Promontory of Shan-Tung........... 118
Yokohama, Japan.............. +++» 41) Chinese Fishing-smack.............. 119
Japanese Barbers....... 0:9: WEAN » 42) Chingse Dogs... .cscscsesevsesses . 125
Japanese Girls........ covcnorosvees 48 | Boats on the Pei-ho River, ceovsenecs 1298
Japanese Cemetery.........e0eec ees 44 | Chinese Agriculture.,........eeec00e 183
A Japanese Garden ..........0.0005 46 | Western Gate, Peking.........+.... 147
Tea-house on the Tokaido......... »» 48) Lapis-lazuli Cat... 0... cece eee ees 150
Group on the Tokaido,............. 49 Ancient Observ atory, or Hall of Science 154
Temple at Kamakura, ............4: 50) Prince Kung... ...ceee eee ee vocecae 157
DROUEE csc icsesesevene seceeeees 61! Yang-Fang,...... Panes a ecb Weise 162
Japanese Bonzes.......... seeeeeees 52 Wife of Yang-Fang, (From a Photo-
American Legation at Yeddo........ 57 | graph by himself.)..........06+6+ 168
1?
¥
Long Nails....
Yang-Fang’s Sn
Chinese Gate-w
Temple of Hea
Tablet Hall. .
The Temple of
Gate of the Te
Image of Confuc
Chinese Cart..
The Litter.....
Summer Palace.
Bridge on the G
Palace.....
Nan-Kow Pass .
The Great Wall.
Gate at Nan-Kovy
Gate-way at Min
Avenue to the M
Bridge at Nankit
er before its
The Upper Yang
Little Orphan Is
Chinese Theatric
Silver Island, on
Scene on the Imy
Hong-Kong....
Trading-Junk ...
Street in Canton.
Entrance to the 7
Poon-ting-gua’s |
Opium-Smokers, .
Chinese Tombs. .
View in Hong-Ke
Saigon, at the Mou
Native of Saigon
Artisan’s House a
Queen of Cambod
Singapore.......
Street in Batavia.
Married Woman
A Javanese Girl.
Scene in Java...
Government Hous
Lily Pond, Palace
Tropical Foliage,
Javanese Fruit. .
Scene in Java...
The Regent Praw
The Regent of Bi
T:)
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Long Nails..... glace Saad auaterelare aseveta’s 164
Yang-Fang’s Smoking-room.......... 166
Chinese Gate-way...........e econ 167
Temple of Heaven............s000% 170 |
Tablet all: sissc we. se ceeds aye diecee’s 172
The Temple of Confucius........... 176 |
Gate of the Temple of Confucius, Pe-
VES oes: cilia hive oneveteual ace terwsetele rea 178
Image of Confucius................. 179 |
Chinese Cart... ...... cece ew ce eens 189
MG Tab bOr ys i365 siete aceite and: s Goiere bei 190
Summer Palace....... asia etbie 6 wagons 192 |
Bridge on the Grounds of the Summer
PAlRGG! . s-scsinecotecestnsieieneoleiererte aad 193
Nan-Kow Pass ....... cece eee ees 196
The Great Wall... .......c eee ee eee 199 |
Gate at Nan-Kow.........ceee ee aes 200
Gate-way at Ming Tombs............ 206
Avenue to the Ming Tombs.......... 209
Bridge at Nanking, and Porcelain Tow-
er before its Destruction ......... 228
The Upper Yang-tse-kiang.......... 230
Little Orphan Island ............... 231 |
Chinese Theatricals ..... cee eceeeeee 208 |
Silver Island, on the Yang-tse-kiang., 248
Scene on the Imperial Canal......... 248
Hong-Kong ....... ccc cece eee eevee 250 |
Trading-Junk ...... 0... cece ee eee ee 252
Street in Canton............ 0006 oe. 257
Entrance to the Temple of Honan.... 261
Poon-ting-gua’s Williceatacviecs sexes 266
Opium-Smokers....... 0... cece eee ee 268
Chinese Tombs. ...........00eee00. 278
View in Hong-Kong................ 274 |
Saigon, at the Mouth.............6. 285
Native of Saigon.............00008. 288
Artisan’s House at Saigon............ 290
Queen of Cambodia... oo... eee eee 291
Singapore. ...... cc ce cee cece ee cee eee B08
Street in Batavie., sie 006 ba 4 ee OOS
Married Woman of Tava. Korelyeaae ewe 806 |
A Javanese Girl... .... cc. eee eee ee 808
Scene in Java.. (ob WNW AEE WU LO
Government Housa, Java. eae seven O12
Lily Pond, Palace Grounds, Java...... 818
Tropical Foliage, Java....... 66. eae 815 |
Javanese Fruit... .. eee eeeeeretsenne 316
Scene in Java,....... vevee BLT
The Regent Prawiro da Kedya,. ». 821
The Regent of Bandong, with ble. Ofti
xi
PAGE
A Hostelry in Java......... eee e ees 327
Dancing-Costume....... ........0. 30
| Dancing-Girl ........... 0.0 eceeeeee 331
Bath at Sindanlaya................. 337
PAVANCBO ss 6.5 'si6 is ciated digal eines cde mieveree 340
Government House, Madras......... 355
MnAtAly 1acacrsneaskauwcoas tonasaes 364
The Surf at Madras..... a Bie loxers 376
Residence of Richard McAlister, Cal-
CU TUB we ai5056,0:5: ore aus seein s wie ac ayquare els 380
The Maharajah of Puttecala, Grand
Commander of the Star of India... 389
| Palace of the King of Oude.......... 896
Barrackpore .........c. ee ee ee eeeee 401
Maharajah of Benares............4. 405
Nautch Girls... ... ccc cece e eee 407
| Benares, from the Ganges........... 409
Great Buddhist Tower at Sarnath.... 410
Carving on Buddhist Tower at Sarnath. 41]
Ghauts at Benares.............0.4. 413
| Temples at Benares..............45 416
Queen’s College, Benares,........... 417
Residency at Lucknow.............. 419
Exterior of the Fort................ 422
Inlaid Screen, Tomb of Mina Begum,
AQVA oie sicgidioaosyeHe i 9 eres 8 Nie ROS 423
Scene on the Road to Futtehpore Sikra, 425
Saracenic Gate........ . 426
Pillar in Akbar’s Council: Chamber:. . 428
Panch Mahal... ............08.... 429
Carved Pillars in the Ruins of Futteh-
pore Sikra, . ‘ tececeeee 401
Akbar’s Tomb at Seoundra, eye arte 432
Taj-Mahal....... ccc cee cece ween ees 435
| Cotton-Merchants, Agra... vee 489
The Taj, from the Fountain.......... 440
DOING ci carers ody Roe e Eade qadjesinn wee 442
The Kootub Minar............. 005. 445
Elephants on the March at Putteeala.. 454
A Conjurer at Putteeala. . sevens 462
Elephants with Howdahs............ 464
The Prince of Putteeala, . 467
The Himalayas... ....eece cee eevee ee 476
The Nerbudda.........- 481
Parsee Children. ..... 00 ee eee eee ens 485
Entrance to the Caves of Elephanta... 489
Aden. . 512
Ismailia. . ii 524
| View on the ‘Nile. . sooeseees B20
| A GIL Of OAltO.. .sccrerraervescees 538
cers, Serer Tne ren ae 825 | The Pyramids of Gizeh...........4.
xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Tho SPhiNS, wsiscse ds cheregesasiens 542 | Jews’ Wailing-Place........ 00000005 652 aj
A Street in Cairo... .. cc ce eee eee eee 548 | Tower of David, Jerusalem.......... 657 3
Street in Cairo ..... cc cece eee eee 550 | Ancient Syra and Modern Hermopolis. 672
Mosque and Houses in Cairo .......- 552 | A Greek Official........... HSieieneSioce 674 b ;
Interior of a Mosque, Cairo.........- 554! A Group of Heads from the Cesnola 4
Cairo, from the East ........00ee ees 558 Collect On’ s..o 0's os sasceaidseceniats eave 675 4
A Woman on the Nile,.........+6++ 566 | Athens... .... cece see c cece esse ees 678 4
Our Caravan. .... eee eee ee eee tees 569 | A Greek Woman.............. eee 680 aN
Temple of Dendera.,.......+++eeees 574 | Bridge at Eleusis........... we ees 681 a
hab eScxuiie ioe mele rau hyenas ea 579 | The Temple of Victory, Athens...... 683 i
Obelisks at Karnak .......... 00005 581 | Albanian Costume...............0. 687
Columns at Karnak ...........0506 584 | Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople. 688
Gate at Karnak ..........0 ese eee 586 | Ancient Pillar at Constantinople...... 692
Capitals of Columns at Esneh........ 597 | Fountain of the Seraglio............ 693
Youssef and his Donkey............ 599 | Seraglio, Constantinople............ 694
Phile... cc... cee ee eee eee ee eee eee 606 | Turkish Woman in Street Dress...... 697
DH 42. se oie Woe eet bab erebaad 607 | Turkish Girlin a Harem...........- 699
Pompey’s Pillar .......sssseseeees 619 | Buda-Pesth ccc cece esiesesveres 718 C
DONTE sch aediccechuusa 0 oFeldueoad. ede wine ees 626 | Count von Beust...........000. cues 421 a
Jerusalem, village of Siloam......... G81 | Florence... ... ec ec cece ce cette ees 726 E?
Pool of Hezekiah.......... 00.0000: 634 | The Coliseum, Rome.............0.. 729 4
Dome of the Church of the Holy Sep- Cardinal Antonelli..............04- 731 a
WIGHICs 5. seaci.scsinsiarsvioteie pele’ ora os 636 | Gena... cee cece cee ee eee ee eee 740 e.
View from the Walls of Jerusalem..,. 641 | Drouyn de Lhuys..............0005 759 a
Mosque of Omar........ seer ee ees 642 | Hamburg... ..... cece eee eee eee eee 770 a
Bethlehem... .... ccc cee eee ee eee 646 | A Map showing Mr. Seward’s Route UNITED 8
Mosque on the Mount of Olives...... 649 | through Asia, Africa, and Europe.. 778
ah
PART I.
|
a
|
4
4
5
i
i
UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFI@ OCEAN.
-~ we ome ==
sal el dei Se
a
a
by
9
#
ew
andanend. T
ARAL IAY a eat oe
4g?
ba
Mr. Seward’s Comp
Niagara.—Cana
Detroit.—Chica
Rapids.—Omah
Navigable Rive
tains.—Influenc
clature.—W ebe
Priesthood.—Btr
sible Conflict it
—Reno.—Railrc
Francisco.—Civ
Auburn, Ar
CHAPTER I.
AC
AUBURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. om
Mr. Seward’s Companions.—His Farewell to his Neighborsx—Western New York.—
Niagara.—Canada and its Destiny —Influence of Immigration.—A frico-Americans.—
Detroit.—Chicago.—President Grant. — Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, — Cedar
Rapids.—Omaha.—New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs.—Bridges over
Navigable Rivers.—Settlement of Western States,—Cheyenne.—The Rocky Moun-
tains—Influence of Mountain States—Sherman.—Separation.—Mountain Nomen-
clature.—Weber Cafion.—Salt Lake City.—The Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular
Priesthood.—Brigham Young’s Sermon.—His Family.— Pol, gamy.—The Irrepres-
sible Conflict in Utah.—The Shoshones,~ Destiny of the Indians.—Sierra Nevada.
—Reno.—Railroads Result of Abolition .f Slavery, —Sacramento.—Arrival at San
Francisco.—Civilization of Californic.—Chinese Immigration,
sc iis lie stale pie” Chee atl =
Auburn, August 9, 1870.—Every study must have a beginning
and an end. These notes begin at Mr. Seward’s embowered home,
4 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN.
whence our journey will begin, and they will end here, where, with
God’s blessing, the journey will end.
Mr. Seward is accompanied by Olive Risley Seward, his adopted
daughter, and by her sister, Miss Risley. The former, in writing
these notes, records his political, social, moral, and philosophical
observations and reflections, in his own words. Hanson A. Risley
accompanies him only to the Pacific. Mr, Alexander W. Randall
and Mrs. Randall, and Mr. George IF’. Seward and Mrs. Seward,
will join him at San Francisco.
A thousand neighbors and friends are gathered around, whose
parting words are made more touching by the fears and anxieties
which they express concerning Mr. Seward’s impaired strength.
His resolute nature suggests the encouragement they need: “ Travel
improves health instead of exhausting it.’ “The journey, though
long, is now made easy by steam on land and sea.” ‘ When I
come back, reniember to meet me at the eastern door of the railway-
station, though we part at the western one.”
Niagara Falls, August 10th.—Leaving the pleasant shore of the
Owasco Lake, we crossed the Cayuga, passed around the foot of tne
Seneca, with its beautiful village of Geneva, looked upon the
Canandaigua from its encircling hills, and came to a rest at Roch-
ester, where the branches of the Central Railroad unite. Thence,
this morning, along the shore of Lake Ontario to Niagar“.
The plain of Western New York, gently descending from the
lakes to the Hudson, and, under a traditional policy, well improved
with canals and railroads, has, from the earliest period of colonial
settlement, been a national thoroughfare.
The enlightened political economy, as well as the liberal princi-
ples and elevated social sentiments for which the State of New York
is distinguished, is strongly reflected in the constitutions, laws, and
manners, of the new Western States.
We see, at Niagara, for the first time, the new bridge which has
been built just below the great cataract. Like the old one, it is
graceful enough; but, “insatiate” bridge-makers, “could not one
suffice?” George P. Marsh is right. Civilizatiun is a constant
tl
PS
fe)
no
”
A
ii
<
3
ea}
09)
MR.
oy fates hee ttt *
/ &
HN)
UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN,
6
warfare of man ayainst Nature. Nature, however, was made for
« 5
man, not man for Nature.
Chatham, Canada, August 10th... ™ was rather a surprise to
meet a United States consul at 1 When we were less than
NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE, NIAGARA FALLS.
twenty-four hours from home. But why do we go through rar
instead of keeping dur own lake-shore? Because the Canadian
route is the more direct one to Detroit. Moreover, have we not
come abroad to see foreign countries, rather than our own}
Canada, though no less fertile, is more ey inhabited t 2
the American shore. Immigration obeys political instincts. :
prefers the established equality and social security or the ae
States. It will be long before either Canada or Mexico can gern
its invigorating power. This may seem hard, Dut it is nek ‘ 1a
only one great nation can be built on une continent at one we
The remedy for both of those countries is the same—accession :
the United States. Canada has hesitated long, but it will see an
feel this truth at last—that itis better to be an equal ee
member of a great, powerful, and — ei a small, feeble,
1 isolated state, even though equally free.
Pe cane a colored settlement, Mr. Seward has been
received with 1
comfortable an
escape from sl:
derground raily
doubtless the
Virginny, to ol
tion is the last
dred freedmen,
and great perst
Vache, in Hayt
guished, and the
Detroit, Aw
here, has been a
itch, a client of
was struggling to
In the War o
surrender and @:
Bull Run was th
which only the r
mount during a f
The city grow
Chicago, Au
merely of Amerid
English lady in }
of our sea-coast td
Though an inlan
sea. Built in a];
above the flood.
neither the hoar
cupidity of the o
broad and fertile
the destiny of Ch
We meet here
teristic modesty 1
for
to
an
Mt (
2 x
ES
Ml
1ada
dian
not
than
It
ited
alize
that
ime.
bn to
and
nent
eble,
beer
DETROIT—CHICAGO,
fod
(
received with much respect and kindness by the people, who seem
comfortable and respectable. They are fugitives who made their
escape from slavery in the United States, years ago, on the “ un-
derground railway.” Now that slavery has been abolished there,
doubtless the burden of their song is, “Carry me back to ole
Virginny, to ole Virginny shore.’ The Africo-American popula-
tion is the last one that will desire to leave our country. A hun-
dred freedmen, about Fortress Monroe, were induced by high offers
and great persuasion, during our civil war, to colonize the Isle-a-
Vache, in Hayti. They complained, moaned, sickened, and lan-
guished, and the government was obliged to bring them back.
Detroit, August 11th.—The interesting incident of our stop
here, has been a visit to Mr. Seward of a daughter of Dr. Abel F.
Vitch, a client of his who died of a broken heart, while Mr. Seward
was struggling to save him from an unjust conviction for conspiracy.
In the War of 1812, Detroit was the theatre of a humiliating
surrender and capitulation, which were hardly retrieved—just as
Bull Run was the scene of a humiliating rout, the evils effects of
which only the mighty issues involved enabled the nation to sur-
mount during a four-years’ conflict.
The city grows steadily in opulence and retinement.
Chicago, August 14th. — Without a prototype, a marvel not
merely of American progress, but of all civilization. We asked an
English lady in New York, who had passed two weeks here, which
of our sea-coast towns she admired most. She answered, ** Chicago.”
Though an inland, border town, it seems nevertheless a city by the
sea. Built in a lagoon like Venice, it has raised itself high and dry
above the flood. As mercantile as Amsierdam or Liverpool, it has
neither the hoarding avarice of the one nor the unscrupulous
cupidity of the other. Just now grasping, with an iron arm, the
broad and fertile shores 0.’ the North Pacific, how splendid seems
the destiny of Chicago!
We meet here the President of the United States. His charac-
teristic modesty has until now been a theme of universal praise.
8 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN,
But mankind have always expected demonstration of power, pomp,
or speech from their rulers. Will tiiey excuse the want of it even
ia the great General of the Civil War ¢
Omaha, August 16th.
“It’s over the river, and over the sea,
And it’s over the water to Charlie,”
It is over the Mississippi River, and it is over the Missouri
River, and over a sea of prairie five hundred mies, from Chicago to
Omaha. Seventy years ago, the Mississippi River divided the
United States from the dominion of France. Sixty years ago Lewis
and Clark found only wild Nature and savage men beyond the
Missouri. Fitteen years ago, the States of the Union were politi-
cally as well as geographically classified as the Northern States
and the Southern States. To-day, it is not a parallel of latitude,
but an uncertain and shifting meridional line, that determines their
classification.
Of the towns which have sprung up on the plains, we notice
Cedar Rapids—not for its superiority to others, but as a specimen
of an inchoate Western city. During ten minutes’ stay there, we
saw the suburban cottages, with pointed roofs, of the Norwegian
settlers, surrounded by dark-green meadows, covered with flocks
of geese and eider-ducks. We heard airs from “ Trovatore” on a
Chickering piano, in a dwelling-house not yet painted or plastered.
We saw a Mansard mansion of the speculator in city lots, its lawn
graced with a bevy of croquet-players. There seem to be all sorts
of churches for all sects of Christians—one surmounted with a
Catholic cross, and one with dome and minaret borrowed from the
There are restless express-agents, nimble
Even the
Mohammedan mosque.
telegraph-messengers, noisy baggage-men and porters.
Washington City colored boy is seen there, sauntering lazily
through the crowd, and repeating, “ Black your boots and shine
’em up?” with the poetical variation, “ A shine for a dime.” Two
young lady-cousins come into the cars, and soon Ict us into more
secrets of matrimonial engagements and other interesting events
des
which are occ
have room to r
Council Blu
the Eastern rail
the historical (
United States a
not Congress it
history by trans
There is a f
Omaha for the t
bridge, which is
by bringing the
By-the-way, ]
of railroads ig |
river navigation
and exhausting Ii
State, or even th
the throwing of :
across a boatable
While, howe
content to cross t
boat, a double-en
and is skilfully st
dashing, muddy y
passengers of sev¢
toward the broad
Do you see that
two bottles of wh
the door, “Last
body, and every
Boston, New Yor
are going to estab
the railroads in W
fornia; lithe, acti
time dogmatic po
“the stranver,”
yuri
» to
the
wis
the
liti-
ates
ude,
heir
ytice
men
, we
gian
ocks
on a
bred.
awn
Borts
th a
the
nble
the
azily
shine
Two
ore
rents
COUNCIL BLUFFS, 9
which are occurring in the “society”
of Cedar Rapids than we
have room to relate.
Council Blutts, on the Missouri River, the connecting station of
the Eastern railroads with the Union Pacific, is fifteen miles below
the historical Council Blutis, where the first treaty between the
United States and the Indians of the plains was celebrated. Will
not Congress its “canon fix ’gainst” this practice of confounding
history by transposing geographical names ¢
There is a fierce competition here between Council Blutfs and
Omaha for the transshipment of passengers and freight. The new
bridge, which is being built over the Missouri, is likely to decide it
by bringing the two flourishing towns into one.
By-the-way, how rapidly the construction of this “ mighty maze”
of railroads is breaking up the ancient idea of the sacredness of
river navigation against interruption by bridges! It cost a long
and exhausting litigation to ascertain whether the Legislature of a
State, or even the Congress of the United States, could authorize
the throwing of a bridge across the Hudson or the Ohio, or even
across a boatable inlet of Delaware Bay.
While, however, they are building a bridge here, we must be
content to cross the Missouri by a ferry. A huge and heavy steam-
boat, a double-ender, starts from a point high above Council Bluffs,
and is skilfully steered first downward, then upward, through the
dashing, muddy waters, to a landing-place far below Omaha. The
passengers of several converging Eastern trains rush promiscuously
toward the broad deck with their baggage, movables, and “ things.”
Do you see that little wooden shanty, on the receding bank, with
two bottles of whiskey in the window, and the monitory words over
the door, “Last Chance?” Everybody tells his business to every-
body, and everybody asks everybody his opinions and prospects.
Boston, New York, and Chicago merchants, bankers, and printers,
are going to establish branches, agencies, and printing-presses, along
the railroads in Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, and Cali-
fornia; lithe, active, and bright, all-loquacious, and at the same
time dogmatic politicians, who fasten themselves tenaciously upon
“the stranzer,” whether lawyer, priest, trader, or farmer, to gain
10 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN.
an opinion on the probable result of the presidential election, yet
three years distant, of the prospect of an early resumption of specie
payments, or of the duration, the immediate result, and the ulterior
consequences of the war which broke out only a week ago in Europe.
Did not our servant, William Freeman, who has just come to his
political rights under the fifteenth amendment, feel his importance
when called on to expound these high mysteries? See that group
of juvenile Italians, with violins and harps realizing a profuse con-
tribution in reward for a rather doubtful performance of * I] Bacio.”
TIear this strong-minded woman narrate to a skeptical audience
her successful achievement in establishing woman’s suffrage in
Wyoming and Utah. An express-agent tells Mr. Seward that he
has just sent to Auburn the largest pair of elk-horns in the velvet
that could be found in Nevada. That cluster standing near the
wheel-house, have sold out their farms in Missouri, and are going
to look for new ones in Willamette Valley or Southern California.
This group of Indians, gay with feathers and paint, are Dakota
chiefs returning to their tribe, to relate the wonders they saw when
sitting around the “big kettle” which the “great father” hung
over the fire for them at Washington. This sturdy fellow in blue
is an Irish recruit of the United States Army, going to join his
regiment at Laramie, accompanied by a wife, six. rosy-cheeked chil-
dren, a spanicl, terrier, two brindle cats, and a speckled hen. It is
altogether too much to expect that the entire family will escape the
perils of Indian warfare. It is a notable feature of the motley
crowd that it contains not one mere laboring man or woman.
Whence, then, and how is the labor to come which is to irrigate the
deserts, build the roads, and open the mines? We may safely leave
the question to its practical solution. American progress and civi-
lization “know no such word as fail.”
We record our thanks to General Auger for the kind atten-
tions shown us at the garrison, and for his orders providing for
our safety and comfort through his wide department; and to the
judges, members of the bar, and other citizens for their public
and private hospitalities.
Cheyenne, At
day in a distance
of five thousand
country seems, n
nor rock, nor del
though quick and
almost impercept
fields, orchards,
short and grayis|
countless buffalo.
cattle, driven here
ports himself in
shyly gazes upon
sitting crect at t]
from their thousar
the towering Bla
Range; but the tl
we know not how
us, and nothing ec
CHEYENNE. 11
Cheyenne, August 17th—Onward and upward, a night and a
day in a distance of five hundred miles; we have gained a height
of five thousand feet on the slope of the Rocky Mountains. The
country seems, nevertheless, a level plain. There is neither crag,
nor rock, nor dell; and even the flow of the beautiful Platte River,
though quick and free, is without cascade or rapids. We have passed
almost imperceptibly from a landscape of Indian corn and wheat
fields, orchards, and vineyards, to an endless slope covered with
short and grayish, but nutritious blue-grass, late the pasturage of
countless buftalo-herds, now replaced by scattered droves of lank
CHEYENNE,
cattle, driven here from Texas and Mexico. The gopher freely dis-
ports himself in our way; the antelope, as if under a fascination,
shyly gazes upon us with his soft blue eyes; and the prairie-dogs,
sitting crect at the doors of their tenements, solemnly review us
from their thousand cities. We expected, on arriving here, to see
the towering Black Ilills, and perhaps the more distant Snowy
Range; but the thermometer has fallen to 386°, and the barometer
we know not how low. ILeavy clouds rest on the earth all around
us, and nothing can be scen beyond or over them.
12 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN,
The Territory of Wyoming, of which Cheyenne is the capital,
has a population outside of the town not exceeding two thousand
Cheyenne grew rapidly during the construction of the Pacific Rail-
road, but now, suffering a decline, it may number twenty-five hun-
dred. It has, however, just been connected by railroad with
Denver, and so with St. Louis. The territorial government, there-
fore, seems a machine prepared for future rather than immediate
use. The army secures the people against intrusion by Indians,
and keeps the peace. Governor Campbell, with the Secretary of
State and the Surveyor-General, received us at the station, and,
apologizing for the straitness of their dwellings, delivered us over
to General King and General Bradley, who have cordially conferred
upon us the freedom of the mess,
SUMMIT.
What is to be the political influence of these new mining and
mountain States ¢
Their founders are energetic, enterprising and
persevering men. Mountaineers are always frugal and brave, as
well as intense lovers of freedom. Their loyalty will never fail, if
the Union shall continue to deserve it.
ote ict cee sas aes
DLR RLS BREE S
SMa ces toy
Sherman, A
the sea! Weh
Black Hills, anc
The pas
mountain-sides |
tains.
Mountains mad
shed, they irri
activity by obs
Now gently de
come upon the ;
is making rapid
beds of crumblit
coal. Prudent }
shaft. Onward
know, in the Wa
the ominous nar
tributaries of the
il gaa a inal oe
3
=
&
SHERMAN, 13
Sherman, August 19th.—Sherman, eight thousand feet above
the sea! We have made a winding way between the crests of the
Black Hills, and these are only a lower tier of the snow-clad moun-
tains. The pass is trecless, shrubless, flowerless; the rocks on the
mountain-sides massive, brown, monotonous. What were the Rocky
Mountains made for? Some of their uses are obvious. A water-
shed, they irrigate the continent, while they stimulate human
activity by obstructing movement and hiding mineral treasure.
Now gently descending the western slope tive hundred feet, we
come upon the great grassy plain of Laramie, on which civilization
is making rapid advancement. Five hundred feet lower, through
beds of crumbling red sandstone, we land on a broad floor of cannel-
WAHSATCH RANGE,
coal. Prudent Nature foresaw the Pacific Railroad and the mining-
shaft. Onward forty miles, downward how many feet we do not
know, in the Wahsatch Valley, we come to a settlement which bears
the ominous name of Separation. It is the parting between the
tributaries of the Atlantic and the Pacific Ocean.
i halen
How odd a
mountain scene
“ Bitter Creek
Wahsatch Ran;
stand on the ea
“COURSE OF EMPIRE.”
a
id
N
kK
fs)
tl
|
Ses | SRST HED NE te Ae a Z F: recognize and hi
which, under thd
great fresco in t
its Way.” He
“COURSE OF EMPIRE.”
LEUTZE&’S
SANS
Bs ee sins
MOUNTAIN NOMENCLATURE, 15
vo
Tow odd and yet how significant is the nomenclature of the
mountain scenery: “Red Desert,” “Table Rock,” “ Black Butte,”
“Bitter Creek!” Now, slowly by winding grades, we climb the
Wahsatch Range, only five hundred feet lower than Sherman; we
stand on the eastern rim of the central basin of the continent. We
DEVIL'S GATE, WEBER CANON,
recognize and hail the rugged yellow cliff and far-reaching plain,
which, under the light of a gorgeous sunset, Leutze has copied in his
great fresco in the Capitol, “ Westward the Course of Empire takes
its Way.” Hence we hurry rapidly downward toward the reservoir
16 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFICO OCEAN.
of the basin, the broad, blue Salt Lake. The face of the Wahsatch
Mountains wears no resemblance to Atiantic scenery. These dis-
jointed masses of rocks, fractured and shivered, look as if they had
resisted lightning, tempest, ice, and flood, for ages. Sublime devas-
tation! The Weber River, here only a foaming torrent, has worked
out for itself an arched passage darker and more majestic than
Gothic art ever designed. The mountain-dwellers call it the Devil’s
Gate. Thereare miles where a declivity, otherwise unbroken, pre-
sents at irregular intervals a high, conical basalt rock, standing like
the tower of a castle whose domes and walls have been swept away,
and buried in the earth. One of these bears the name of Pulpit
PULPIT ROUK,
Rock, and, though inaccessible, it is believed by the credulous that
Brigham Young from its level summit rallied his hosts to repel the
army of General Johnson.
In the Weber Caiion, at the foot of the Wahsatch Range, the
torrent subsides into a quiet stream. On its bank is an old and
solitary pine-tree, which bears a board on which is inscribed,
“One thousand
meditate; and n
names. Let no
a valley, it is
but a table-lanc
from the bosom
wild-horses.
Salt Lake
Valley Railroad
where many oth
a special train, v
at the station he
Wearied anc
neat and cheerft
lishwoman, the
to us.
The town, tl
SALT LAKE CITY. 17
“One thousand miles from Omaha.” Here all travellers rest and
meditate; and many, proud of the great achievement, record their
names. Let no one suppose that, because Salt Lake Plain is called
a valley, it is therefore level, smooth, or grassy. The plain is
but a table-land, broken by mountain-spurs, and hilly ranges rise
from the bosom of the lake itself, affording pasturage for herds of
wild-horses.
THOUSAND-MILE TREE
Salt Lake City, August 20th.—At Ogden, where the Salt Lake
Valley Railroad intersects the continuous Pacific Railroad, and
where many other railroads are soon to meet it, we were taken by
a special train, which Brigham Young had sent for us. On arrival
at the station here, we were received by General De Trobriand.
Wearied and worn with mountain-travel, a hostelry even less
neat and cheerful than the Townsend House, managed by an Eng-
lishwoman, the second of four wives, would have been acceptable
to us.
The town, though so unique and isolated, is full of visitors from
18 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN,
all parts of the United States and Europe, animated by a common
sentiment, curiosity concerning the Mormons—how they came to
be here; how they live and act; with what woes they threaten the
nation and mankind, and by what means, moral, judicial, political,
or military, the anomalous sect shall be brought to an end.
SALT LAKE VALLEY.
We attended divine service this morning in a small and plain
Episcopalian chapel. . In the afternoon, we were accompanied to
the Tabernacle by Mr. Hooper, Territorial Delegate in Congress.
The congregation, composed chiefly of women and children, “ with
here and there a traveller,’ must have numbered seven or eight
thousand. On the platform were seated the entire hierarchy, con-
sisting of the president, the apostles, and the high council, the sev-
enties, the high-priests, the elders, the priests, teachers, and deacons.
Among these dignitaries we recognized merchants, railroad men,
mechanics, and farmers, and it is quite manifest that the priesthood
is a shrewd, sagacious body of secular persons. The communion is
celebrated every Sunday, every worshipper participating. The
TH)
ceremony, thou
the same manne
with the differer
prayer being of
firet preacher ar,
of God came up
Saviour; that th
and that the Lz
less than the tru
not merely a un
through time an
with the newly-d
to enter and bui.
During the s
ineditative obser
over the congres
faith, constancy,
THE MORMONS, THEIR DOCTRINES, ETO. 19
ceremony, though attended with less solemnity, is conducted in
the same manner as in the more popular Protestant denominations,
with the difference that watcr is used in place of wine, a special
prayer being offered that the substitution may be approved. The
tiret preacher argued that, according to divine promise, the kingdom
of God came upon the earth immediately after the departure of the
Saviour ; that this kingdom has a key ; that the Church early lost it,
and that the Latter-Day Saints have found it; that it is nothing
less than the true principle of marriage, namely, that marriage is
not merely a union for earthly life, but a spiritual bond extending
through time and eternity : the Mormons having unlocked the gates
with the newly-discovered key, are inviting and expecting all nations
to enter and build up the kingdom of God.
MORMON TABERNACLE.
During the service thus far, Brigham Young sat a silent and
ineditative observer. He now rose, and a profound stillness came
over the congregation. He dwelt briefly on the devotion, zeal,
faith, constancy, conflicts, and sufferings, of the founders of the
20 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN.
Mormon Church. From its past triumphs, and its present security,
he inferred the favor of the Divine Author of the Christian religion.
Like the previous speaker, he seemed to avoid the subject of po-
lygamy, while he claimed for the new church a close conformity
to the practices of the early Christians, and the enjoyment of new,
special, and continuous revelations. No Christian teacher claims for
the writings of Isaiah or Jeremiah, or of Matthew, Luke, or John,
more divine illumination or infallibility than the speaker demanded
for the attested manuscripts of Joseph Smith. After descanting, in
a few glowing words, upon the certain acceptance of the new faith
immediately, and throughout the whole world, he warned the saints
of the danger of falling from the faith, saying, with all the vehemence
of prophetic denunciation, “ Hell awaits the backslider!” After a
kind allusion to Mr. Seward’s presence, the sermon ran to incoher-
ent and pointless exhortation. The service ended, Brigham Young
greeted Mr. Seward, and asked leave to visit him in the evening.
The veneration which a Roman Catholic, Episcopalian or Method-
ist congregation manifest toward a prelate of their order, at whose
hand they have received a sacrament, is indifference itself compared
with t’\e awe and reverence paid to the President of the Latter-Day
Saints as he retired from the Tabernacle.
Brigham Young, accompanied by four sons and three elders,
passed the long evening in conversation, religious, political and
secular, with Mr. Seward. At the close, with an air as free from
embarrassment as the patriarch Jacob might have shown in a like
case, he invited Mr. Seward to visit some of his houses the next
day, and see his family.
August 22d.—The President came with carriages, and drove us
first to visit his wife Emeline, a matron of fifty, with her ten chil-
dren, from the ages of twenty-five downward. Thence to the house
of Amelia, who seems thirty-five years. She has been married two
or three years, and has no children. She invited the ladies to try
her new piano. We then drove to the dwelling of the first wife.
This house, the first which Brigham Young built in the city,
shows him to be a skilful mechanic, with a considerable knowledge
of architecture,
edicts. ae
Brigham Young,
regard their aged
repaired to the “
ings, in which th
They have differ
or piazzas with 4
used as a music-h:
of the “ Bee-hive,”
comfortable, and or
were received here
dren, a large propo
flaxen hair, strongly
educated upon the ad
we saw were healt]
affectionate, without
free from boldness
3
BRIGHAM YOUNG'S FAMILY. 21
~
of architecture. She was surrounded by her sons, Hiram Young,
Brigham Young, Jr., and their several wives, who all seemed to
regard their aged mother with proper filial affection. Thence we
repaired to the “ Bee-hive,” a complex building, or group of build-
ings, in which the remaining families of Brigham Young reside.
They have different suites of apartments, connected by corridors
or piazzas with the garden, a common dining-room, and a saloon
used as a music-hall and chapel. The furniture and appointments
eee te
BRIGHAM YOUNG'S RESIDENCE.
of the “ Bee-hive,” like those of the other houses, are frugal but
comfortable, and order and cleanliness prevail in them all. We
were received here by eight wives and their children. The chil-
dren, a large proportion of whom are girls, with blue eyes and
flaxen hair, strongly resemble their father and each other. All are
educated upon the academic standard of the Western country. All
we saw were healthful, intelligent, sprightly, happy and mutually
affectionate, without regard to the difference »f mothers; equally
free from boldness and awkwardness. The mothers, women of
3
b he ee
22 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PAOIFIO OCEAN,
sad deportment, are entirely devoted to their children. ae me
wives are uneducated, except Amelia, who was peck ies ne
accomplished school-teacher. an ee where ee hans ti
i ur penetration. 1e min
pa rae i by trouble. She spoke severely * ae ira
riousness. We were served at every house with the cho pists
native fruits and native wine. Except the ee shee _
servants. At the “ Bee-hive,” each mother sits with os e mene
at table, and the several families are served in ee . ee
they arearranged. Family eked n inte any He i
by the patriarch, and atten led by the enti ee abit: ‘is
o’s manner toward his wives is respectfu » an g
te dignified and piace Aisne ites oe
i ith a kind smile fo é
“d paces meinen o 4 our delicate little Lucy,” “This is
sca daughter,” “This is our son George, who has : eres
matical genius,” and soon. At the end of the visit -“ sci
Young said to Mr. Seward: “ You have seen eleven o the " ‘i
wives with whom I live, and nearly all of my forty-nine surviving
‘ ”
i ” said Mr. Seward, “ you are represented as saying. that
you do ‘6 know how many wives you haves” Ze anaes
explained that, besides the wives who are married for pee -
Mormons believe in sealing other wives only for oh : ; :
regard to such women, he may have made the remark attribute
eee not at first adopted by the Mormons, is an “chan
tious feature of their system. It was authorized by a th . : :
Joseph Smith, which was posthumously published. 6. ; aie
at first desired to suppress it, but it bore the vonmisite officia he a
tation of the prophet, and therefore could not be rejectad wit a
shaking the foundation of the whole ay stem, The me w .
they make for it are not altogether destitute of plausibi ity.
promised to stimulate population when the Beat in a pins ed
and isolated, expected no accession by immigration, either foreign
or domestic, except of European converts. More women than men
) A population of ne
came as such c
comforts for sup
neglect, want, a:
compatible with
schools, nor wit]
the people. Tin
are the conditio;
develop the evils
matter of religion
the just and nee
been one of the ¢
ages, in all count}
constituting what
great study of ciy
nations, the only ;
lygamy ig antagon
the family. Wher
any country, an in
the East the hare
results of not mer¢
and the demoraliz
This is the conflict
is not doubtful, an¢
Gentile populatio:.
resources of the ce
be distant.
The Mormons,
neous and obnoxid
like other religious
ence. How long,
voke. The field of
of search is eterna
henceforth comma
In the aspect of
years, Occupying a g
that
lent
the
, in
d to
enti-
bn to
urch
ittes-
hout
hich
It
| new
reign
men
POLYGAMY,
came as such converts. Polygamy provided shelter and material
comforts for supernumerary women who might otherwise fall into
neglect, want, and possible infamy. So far it has not proved in-
compatible with the education and training of children in public
schools, nor with the maintenance of order and tranquillity among
the people. Time enough, however, has not elapsed, perhaps, nor
are the conditions of the community sufficiently matured, fully to
develop the evils of the institution. Marriage is not exclusively a
matter of religious belief. It is a social institution. To ascertain
the just and needful relation between the sexes in social life has
been one of the experimental studies of mankind, from the earliest
ages, in all countries. The marriage of one man with one woman,
constituting what we call the family relation, is the result of that
great study of civilization. It is universally accepted by Christian
nations, the only nations which enjoy a matured civilization. Po-
lygamy is antagonistic to, and incompatible with, the existence of
the family. When the two institutions are bi »ught into contact in
any country, an irrepressible conflict ensues. In all the nations of
the East the harem has hitherto prevailed in that conflict, with the
results of not merely the degradation but the enslaving of woman,
and the demoralization and corruption of the entire social body.
This is the conflict which is just now beginning in Utah. The end
is not doubtful, and, with the rapid increase of what is called the
Gentile populatio:., coming to develop the mineral and agricultural
resources of the central regions of the continent, that end cannot
be distant.
The Mormons, as a religious sect, soon to cast off the heteroge-
neous and obnoxious institution of polygamy, may survive, and,
like other religious and ecclesiastical associations, enjoy a long exist-
ence. How long, may depend upon the persecution it may pro-
| voke. The field of purely religious inquiry is infinite, and the spirit
of search is eternal. It demands, and will in all civilized states
henceforth command, toleration.
In the aspect of political economy, Utah is a wonderful success.
) A population of nearly one hundred thousand, doubling every ten
years, occupying a soil naturally destitute of vegetation, has, by irri-
au
4
soi
‘
J
4
a
wo i
i
{
4
-— = ton?
_ %
24 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN,
gation and other processes, produced an abundant granary for sup-
plying the wants of immigrants on their way to the new mountain
States and Territories on every side. Whatever may be the future of
Utah and the Mormon sect, Brigham Young will have an historical
character. Ie was originally an uneducated carpenter, in youth a
townsman of Mr. Seward’s at Auburn. The latter, while seeing no
reason to question Young’s sincerity in his eccentric religious faith
and practices, deems it unjust to deny him extraordinary ability,
energy, and perseverance, as a founder of an American State. His
failure, however, in one of his designs, perhaps at the time the most
cherished of all, will serve as a warning to future American colo-
nizers. Leading his exiled and persecuted band from the banks
of the Mississippi across the wilderness, he refused to stop until he
had found an asylum outside of the territory and jurisdiction of the
United States. Scarcely, however, had he discovered this land of
refuge in Mexico, before the Government aequired title, and ex-
tended its authority over not only that region, but the whole coun-
try to the Pacific Ocean.
Elcho, August 23d.—Brigham Young, attended by a group of
wives and children, took leave of Mr. Seward at the station in Salt
Lake City; and a committee, composed of Mormen elders, came
with us by special train to Ogden. There two palatial cars awaited
us, which had been sent across the Sierra Nevada by Mr. Seward’s
friends at Sacramento. These are furnished with a dining-room,
well-supplied pantry, kitchen, and sleeping-apartments.
Salt Lake, though fed by saline springs, is the reservoir of many
mountain-streams, the Weber River, Bear River, Blue Creck, and
others. Its waters are shallow and unwholesome; but we saw
cattle feeding near it, and land-birds flying over it. Its beach is
always thickly incrusted with salt, produced by solar evaporation.
Large timber grows in the mountain-cafions, and the soil, wherever
irrigated, is prolific of cereals, grasses, and fruits. The peach,
plum, and grape, are unsurpassed, even in California. Our last
sunset view of the lake, taken a hundred miles west of Ogden, was
ove which we are not likely to forget. The great orb, suspended
over the water:
was clothed in
€ 2 broad and grace
a Here, at Ele
Shoshones, once
Must these Ind
white man? It
version to the us
to that end, from:
failed. The exper
no more promising
In numbers, has nof
zation, Exalted to
of Mexico may be s:
tween the pure Indi
have practically cea:
divided by castes, o
DESTINY OF THE INDIANS. 25
over the waters, kindled them toa dazzling blaze, while the sky
was clothed in a drapery of purple and gold, which extended in
broad and graceful festoons across the entire horizon.
Here, at Elcho, we find a wretched and squalid remnant of the
Shoshones, once the proprietors of the region we are surveying.
Must these Indian races indeed perish before the march of the
white man? It would seem so; they could only be saved by con-
version to the usages and habits of civilization, but all past efforts
to that end, from the Atlantic to the centre of the continent, have
THE REMNANT OF A TRIBE.
failed. The experiments of the same sort on the Pacific coast are
no more promising. The Aztec race, though it has not increased
in numbers, has not diminished under Spanish couquest and coloni-
zation, Exalted to citizenship, suffrage, and education, the Indians
of Mexico may be saved ; but it is noticeable that intermarriages be-
tween the pure Indians and the Creoles and European immigrants
have practically ceased, and that Mexico exhibits therefore a nation
divided by castes, of which the native one is the most numerous,
oer
a
. TT N.
26 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEA
while the foreign one is the most wealthy and intelligent. One
cannot but hope that the Aztecs of Mexico may prove an exception
to the elsewhere universal process of extermination.
BS
=
ea
wi
#
4
Bs
Reno.—On leaving Elcho, we followed a mountain-pass which
is barricaded with basalt columns, more picturesque than the ad-
mired Palisades of the Hudson, and this pass brought us out on
the bank of the Humboldt River. We have followed its wild and
MOUTH OF BIG COTTONWOOD CANON.
winding way as it flows over an alkaline bed, destitute of vegeta-
tion, two hundred and fifty miles, until it spreads its waters over
a broad and sterile plain and sinks into the earth. From this
plain we began the eastern ascent of the Sierra Nevada, she
poisonous mineral dust, raised by the whirlwind, was excoriating
as we passed over this desert of the desert, seeing neither tree nor
stream after leaving the lost river.
We declined
Virginia City, as
and Omaha, to d
terest. The freq
of the rapidity v
entwining the gig
What is the s
national energy it
is one of the first
of the constitutic
course in dractice
principle, develop
years, has been ¢
and national prog
Sacramento, A
mountain scenery
green forests, and,
Mr. Stanford,
and accompanied \
a long journey, t]
gineering skill mu
through mountaing
engineer whistled ‘
which seemed to b¢
proved to be the e
mountains, deep-b]
entered a broad pla
oak. Newly-harve
native oats, are bou
here in advance of
less greeted with a
made our way thr
welcome him.
A drive throng]
dinner at Mr, Stanf
SACRAMENTO.
We declined here a pressing invitation to diverge and visit
Virginia City, as we had declined at Salt Lake, Ogden, Cheyenne,
and Omaha, to diverge to other points of mining and political in-
terest. The frequency of these invitations is strongly suggestive
of the rapidity with which branch railroads and common roads are
entwining the giant limbs of the new members of the republic,
What is the secret of this sudden and prodigious increase of
national energy in the prosecution of internal improvements? It
is one of the first fruits of the abolition of slavery. Conservatism
of the constitutional compromises in the interest of slavery, of
course in practice, became conservatism of slavery itself, and this
principle, developed in 1800, and gaining strength during fifty
years, has been effectually obstructive of material improvement
and national progress.
Sacramento, August 25th.—The desert is passed at Reno. The
mountain scenery becomes fresh and cheerful with plentiful ever-
green forests, and, where they have been removed, rich meadows.
Mr. Stanford, Mr. Crocker, and Mr. Mills, met us on the way,
and accompanied us down the western slope of the Sierra Nevada,
a long journey, though the distance is short. The highest en-
gineering skill must have been employed in effecting this passage
through mountains so rugged, steep and wild. This morning the
engineer whistled ‘ Down brakes!” to avoid collision with a train
which seemed to be coming from the opposite direction, but which
proved to be the end of our own train. We left massive brown
mountains, deep-blue lakes, and cafions clothed in evergreen, and
entered a broad plain, lightly shaded with groups of laurel and live-
oak. Newly-harvested wheat-fields, and fields yet covered with
native oats, are boundless. Although the engineer had brought us
here in advance of the appointed hour, Mr. Seward was neverthe-
less greeted with a salvo, and it was not without difficulty that we
made our way through the friendly mass who were gathered to
welcome him.
A drive through city and suburbs, and over the race-course, a
dinner at Mr. Stanford’s, and an evening reception at Mr. Crocker’s,
rs
20
Ver"
28 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN,
closed the day, giving us a pleasing acquaintance with the refined
and spirited society of the capital of California.
San Francisco, September 1st.—Mr. Seward, desirous to avoid
an appearance of seeking a renewal of the hospitalities extended to
him here last year, on his tour to Alaska and Mexico, effected a
quiet entrance into the town, and we have been the guests, since
i
4
z
(
SAN FRANCISCO,
our arrival, of his old friend and travelling-companion, Mr. Hastings.
We have visited the Cliff House ; and made for all, but Mr. Seward,
Pes
a>
a first acquaintance with the Seal-Rocks, their amphibious inhabi- FE
tants, and the Pacific Ocean. We could not describe, if we should Fy
attempt, the bewildering land excursion ot two days, and the fe
magnificent entertainment at Belmont, which Mr. Ralston gave us,
or our beautiful steam-yacht excursion around the harbor and bay.
General Scofi
department, a
commanding t
ously, These
week, closed la
What capr
Wrested from 1
to enlarge the
in large tracts,
of the disposs
schools been est
the hold of Spa
seized the entir
rapid colonizatio
exceptions, neit]
priests to teach, 1
were founded ¢]
a CIVILIZATION OF CALIFORNIA. 99
l 4 General Scofield, Jate Secretary of War, now at the head of this
j ‘ department, and Admiral Winslow, the hero of the Kearsarge,
Fl commanding the Pacific squadron here, have entertained us gener-
d 4 ously. These and other hospitalities, all crowded into one short
0 u week, closed last night with a ball at the house of Mr. Avery.
What caprices have marked the civilization of California !
Wrested from the native Indians, one hundred and fifty years ago,
to enlarge the dominion of Spain; parcelled fifty years afterward,
in large tracts, among bookish priests devoted to the conversion
of the dispossessed proprietors—hardly had the cathedrals and
CLIFF HOUSE, BAN FRANCISCO,
gs. schools been established, whcn revolution tore the territory from
ard, FO the hold of Spain, and the Republic of Mexico confiscated and }
abi- seized the entire domain. Then came purchase, conquest, and E
nld rapid colonization, by the United States. These have left, with few 5 j
the Be exceptions, neither Mexican proprietors to occupy, nor Spanish » |
Us, ' priests to teach, nor Indians to be taught. The Catholic churches
bay. FF) wore founded chiefly in 177678, How litile did their builders
3
}
30 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN.
understand the mighty revolution that had just then broken out
on the other side of the continent—a revolution that was destined
to modify not only the civil but also the ecclesiastical systems of the
earth !
San Francisco, though only twenty years old, already assumes
the aspect, tone, and manners of an inter-continental emporium, a
counterpart to the Atlantic metropolis.
The absorbing topic here is, Chinese immigration. Mr. Seward
has declined an invitation given him by the anti-Chinese party to
explore the Chinese quarter, and see how unfit its inhabitants are
to become citizens of the United States; and also a like invitation
from the Chinese settlers to make the same exploration, to see how
harmless and profitable that colonization is. The Republican party
have lately acquiesced in the policy of exclusion, which has been
insisted upon so long and so strenuously by the Democratic party.
Mr. Seward protests firmly s~ainst this, and teaches that immigra-
tion and expansion are the n...in and inseparable elements of civili-
zation on the American Continent, and nowhere more needful or
beneficent than on the Pacific coast. He says confidently, to both
parties, that all attempts will fail to suppress or stifle either of those
invigorating forces.
GOLDEN GATE.
The Vessels of the
of the Preache
The Moods of
cutus.x—The Be
Steamer Ch
having receive
More kind frien
we had been lo:
been thirty yea
taxed his streng
We passed t
Gate, with scar
our voyage on a
September 4t
wheel steamers,
passed only by t
Island Sound.
den, is the sm
promenade seve}
have sixty cabii
that number.
Minister return
dozen English ci
Japan and Chin
pany of the prea
CHAPTEDR II.
FROM SAN FRANCISCO T0 JAPAN.
cutus.—The Beginning of the End.—The Coast of Japan.—The Ocean-Fisheries.
Steamer China, Pacific Ocean, September 1, 1870.—Our party
having received its promised accessions, we embarked at noon.
More kind friends could not have come on board to take leave if
we had been long residents of San Francisco. If Mr. Seward had
been thirty years younger, such a parting would even then have
taxed his strength.
We passed the sometimes turbulent, but always majestic Golden
Gate, with scarcely a disturbance of the ship’s balance, and began
our voyage on a calm sea and under a bright sky.
September 4th.—The vessels of the Pacific Mail Line are side-
wheel steamers, and in accommodations and appointments are sur-
passed only by the palatial boats on the Hudson River and Long
Island Sound. The China, four thousand three hundred tons bur-
den, is the smallest of them all. We enjoy an uninterrupted
promenade seven hundred feet in circuit on the upper deck. We
have sixty cabin-passengers, and might carry comfortably twice
that number. Among them are General Vlangally, the Russian
Minister returning from St. Petersburg to Peking, and half a
dozen English civil officers coming from “home” to their posts in
Japan and China. “Great,” it must be confessed, “is the com-
pany of the preachers:” Fifteen American missionaries with theia
The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line—Our Fellow-Passengers.—“ The Great Company
of the Preachers.”—The Chinese Passengers.—The Great Event of the Voyage.—
The Moods of the Sea —A Still Greater Event.—The Loss of a Day.—The Gyas-
ee ie
o2 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIC OCEAN,
o
wives and children !—the elder families returning, and the younger
going for the first time to fields of labor in Japan, China, Siam,
and India; United States naval officers, on their way to join the
Asiatie squadron, four English and as many American youths just
emerged from college on an Eastern: tour; a United States Treas-
ury agent, going to inspect the Oriental consulates; and one Amer-
ican office-seeker, at least, proceeding to lay his claims before the
Emperor of China at Peking. The gentlemen amuse themselves
with gymnastic games, the ladies with music and books. An ex-
pert Japanese juggler entertains us in the cabin. In the steerage,
are five hundred Chinese returning home. They pay less than half
price, and are fed with the simple fare of their country. Knowing
no use of beds, they sleep on the floor. In the middle of their
cabin they have made, with canvas, a dark room for opium-smoking.
When on deck, they appear neatly clad, and amuse themselves with
unintelligible and apparently interminable games of chance. The
annual immigration of Chinese to the United States is twelve thou-
sand. They are invariably successful. Half the number go back
to China, either on visits or to remain. Our freights consist of
Mexican silver dollars, manufactured goods, agricultural machines,
carriages, furniture, flour, butter, fruits, drugs, and patent medicines.
These go in exchange for teas, silks, rice, and Chinese emigrants.
September 6th.—The great event of the voyage occurred this
morning. All were on deck, in a state of pleasant excitement.
At seven o’clock, precisely the hovr which the captain had fore-
told, the ship America, eighteen days from Yokohama, appeared
in a direct line before us, under full pressure, and with square
sails set. Signals were promptly exchanged, and, to avoid colli-
sion, each ship turned slightly from its course and stopped. The
America has eighty cabin-passengers and four hundred Chinese.
The cadin-passengers on either vessel cheered loudly, the Chinese
looking on silent and thoughtful. A well-manned gig, with an
officer in the stern, came bounding over the waves, and deliv-
ered to us Chinese and Japanese (European) newspapers, with a
bag of letters from her passengers. We, in return sent on board
the latest A
letters to ou
hoisted to it
gracefully bow
passengers rep
nounced that
course, and in
the waving of
America,*
If we gave
European war,
change gave u
pean powers q
recent dreadfi
that Mr. Sewa
says that Fran
war against C
nation will,
* The telegraph
of Yokohama, Aug
THE GREAT EVENT OF THE VOYAGE, 33
the latest American newspapers, and a mail well charged with
letters to our friends at home. The America’s boat was then
hoisted to its davits, the walking-beams of the two giant ships
PET se
ES saielanial
MEETIN® OF THE STEAMERS IN MID-OCEAN,
gracefully bowed to each other, the wheels gently revolved, the
passengers repeated their cheers, and a gun from either deck an-
nounced that the meeting was over. Each vessel resumed its
course, and in a few moments not even a spy-glass could discover
the waving of handkerchiefs or other signal on the deck of the
America.*
If we gave to the eastern-bound travellers the first news of the
European war, and of the death of Admiral Farragut, they in ex-
change gave us intelligence of an expected war between the Euro-
pean powers and the Chinese Government, in consequence of the
recent dreadful massacre at Tien-Tsin. Every one is astonished
that Mr. Seward persists in his purpose of visiting Peking. He
says that France, in her present disabled condition, cannot make
war against China, and, without the lead of France, no Western
nation will.
* The telegraph from Shanghai reports that the America was burned in the harbor
of Yokohama, August 25, 1872.
34 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFIO OCEAN,
September 14th.—Those who would know the sea, have need to
study its varying moods and aspects. They must see it in the later
hours of cloudless night, when it reflects the bright stars and con-
stellations; they must see it in the morning twilight, when its
broad surface seems contracted to a small, dark lake, and then un-
der the illumination of the dawn it resumes its illimitable expanse.
Doubtless it is terrible in its more serious moods by reason of its
vastness, darkness, and powerful agitation, all elements of the sub-
lime. Happily for us, we have not yet witnessed those moods.
September 16th.—It was a mistake to pronounce our meeting
with the America, on the 6th, the event of the voyage. <A
greater one has just occurred. Our last date is the 14th. This
note is written on the 16th. The former entry certainly was
made yesterday. The chronometer marked eight o’clock at
night at Greenwich, at the very hour when our clock, which
keeps the running time, marked eight o’clock in the morning. We
are half-way around the world from Greenwich, and have lost just
halfa day. It is quite clear that, if we should continue onward
making the same discrepancy of time, we should have lost a whole
day on arriving at Greenwich. We might postpone the readjust-
ment of our ship’s time until we reached Greenwich, but the
scientific world has wisely decided that this readjustment shall
be made in every case by compromise on the 180th meridian, and
therefore, instead of striking out a half-day here, we strike out a
whole one.
If the absolute loss of one whole day out of our lives is a dis-
tressing thing to think of, we may console ourselves with Red
Jacket’s profound reflection. When a missionary had delivered be-
fore the Seneca nation, in council, a homily in the usual style on
the shortness of life, and the necessity of improving its fleeting
hours, he called on them for an expression of their sentiments on
that important subject; Red Jacket, having duly consulted with
the chiefs, head men, women, and warriors, responded in their be-
half: “Red men have all the time there is going; they do not
sce that white men have any more.”
September 20
The sea has come
past, and is now
belt of the hot ci
Siberia, and Alas
A brig under
ing eastward. F
When all have fa
nounces that the
Valparaiso, freigh
“low do you kn
“let him prove t
proof, it is at least
used in his sermor
September 23d.-
deck, bulwarks, st:
tarred, or painted,
house. Our five
2 rope-enclosure o
shining cotton clot
are seen for the fir;
in dropping handf
the sea, to propitis
round us; one whi
and a whale, the o
in the distance.
September 24th.
over the dark sea, b
notice of our comin
We have crosse
gretted that we mug
How profitable it w
coast, the shores of
River, and Alaska,
THE COAST OF JAPAN. 35
September 20th.—Four thousand miles from San Francisco.
The sea has come down from the long, surging swell of a few days
past, and is now smooth and glassy. We have entered the outer
belt of the hot circular current which warms the coasts of Japan,
Siberia, and Alaska.
A brig under full sail is seen, though at a great distance, mov-
ing eastward. Everybody tries the spy-glass to make her out.
When all have failed, a passenger, noted for controversialism, pro-
nounces that the brig is the Gyascutus, from Macao, bound for
Valparaiso, freighted with coolies. We all start at once, and ask,
“Tow do you know?” “Tassert it to be the fact,” he replies ;
“Jet him prove the contrary who can. If this is not sufficient
proof, it is at least the same form of argument that our preacher
used in his sermon last night.”
September 23d.—The beginning of the end! Every inch of the
deck, bulwarks, stanchions, rigging, and boats, has been scoured,
tarred, or painted, and the whole ship is clean as a Shaker meeting-
house. Our five hundred steerage-passengers are confined within
a rope-enclosure on the forward-deck—they appearing in new and
shining cotton clothes, with pates freshly shaven. A dozen women
are seen for the first time. All are engaged, especially the women,
in dropping handfuls of rice and small pieces of colored paper into
the sea, to propitiate the gods yor a safe arrival. Flying-fish sur-
round us; one white-breasted gui] has come to attend us into port;
and a whale, the only one we have seen on the voyage, is spouting
in the distance.
September 24th.—The coast of Japan rises in a long, gray outline
over the dark sea, but Fusi Yama veils his head, and refuses to take
notice of our coming.
We have crossed the Pacific Ocean. Tow much it is to be re-
gretted that we must make such long stretches, and yet see so little!
Hfow profitable it would be to study the North-Pacific American
coast, the shores of Puget Sound, the Territories on the Columbia
River, and Alaska, in a near future the great fishery, forest, and
36 UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND PACIFICO OCEAN,
mineral storehouses of the world!—the Aleutian chain of islands
hereafter to be the stepping-stones between the two continents.
We have lost a sight, also, not only of the Sandwich Islands, but
of Australia, a fifth continent on which a kindred people are devel-
FUSI YAMA, COAST OF JAPAN.
oping a state that may at some future day challenge comparison
with our own republic.
The Northern fisheries known in commerce are chiefly above
the 34th parallel. The United States and Russia own more than
half of the coast on both sides of the Pacific, north of that parallel.
Mr. Seward left, as a legacy in the State Department, an inchoate
negotiation of a treaty for reciprocity in those fisheries. Its im-
portance may be estimated by recalling the controversies and con-
flicts between the United States and Great Britain, during the last
hundred years, which have arisen out of the fisheries on the Atlan-
tic coast.
i 3=—
PART II.
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
The Bay of Yokohar
bers.—The Toka
Monasteries,—Ka
Yokohama, ,
moonless darknes
name of his ship,
wnchor before mi
lights of our first
around and arour
uncounted symp]
ship scarcely moy
became the longe
and more tediousl
last we gave it uy
ship’s gun, and tl
brought an explan
did not announce {
half-past two,
The bay of Yo
&8 beautiful, as th
gracefully from the
Yama’s sacred broy
The hills and valle
day; the harbor is
CHAPTER I.
YOKOHAMA AND ITS VICINITY.
The Bay of Yokohama.—Natives and Foreigners.—Native Costumes.—Japanese Bar- :
bers.—The Tokaido.—Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples.—Monks and :
Monasteries. —Kamakura.—The Great Statue of Buddha,—The Daibutz,
Yokohama, September 25th.—Night closed with more than
moonless darkness. With a true seaman’s solicitude for the good
name of his ship, Captain Freeman still promised that we should
anchor before midnight. Who could think of sleeping when the
lights of our first Asiatic port were so near? We walked the deck
around and around, from stem to stern; we tried whist, we drew
uncounted symphonies from the piano—but no consolation. The
ship scarcely moved, and the equinoctial 24th day of September
became the longest of all the days in the year. Time lagged more
and more tediously between the hours of eleven and twelve. At
last we gave it up, and went to rest. We were wakened by the
ship’s gun, and the slow dropping of the anchor. The morning
brought an explanation. The ship’s clock had been retarded, and
did not announce the hour of twelve until the chronometer marked ;
half-past two.
The bay of Yokohama is as spacious, and its surroundings are
«8 beautiful, as those of Hampton Roads. The landscape recedes
gracefully from the shore, and high above the beautiful scene Fusi
Yama’s sacred brow reflects the glowing smile of the morning sun.
The hills and valleys wear all the freshness of spring. It is Sun-
day; the harbor is gay with the flags of many nations on men-of-
yee
40 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
war and merchant-ships, and is made more animated by the quaint
Japanese craft and their shouting, grotesque, native managers.
Yokohama, September 26th.—The United States minister, Mr.
De Long, Captain McCrea, of the Asiatic squadron, Mr. Shepard
the consul at Yeddo, Mr. Walsh, and other American citizens, came
on board, and after kind expressions of welcome and congratulation
conducted us to Mr. Walsh’s residence.
Captain McCrea received Mr. Seward and his friends with na-
tional honors on board the United States steamship-of-war Monocacy.
Accustomed at home to the intermingling of all classes, condi-
tions, and races, in subjection to one system of laws and tribunals,
with common standards of morals and manners, we are as yet un-
prepared for the different constitution of society we find here:
instead of one community, two, standing side by side, each inde-
pendent of the other—the one native, the other foreign.
The native population of Japan is forty millions, all of the Mongo-
lian type; * the so-called European population, five thousand, tempo-
rarily residing here from various nations, including the United States.
These foreigners are gathered upon tracts of land, one, three or six
miles square, called concessions, adjacent to native cities in the chief
ports of this maritime empire. These foreign settlements are cor-
porations, regulated and protected by the several foreign nations, and
are copied in all respects from Western models, while the unpaved
native cities, built of firs and cedars, thatched with bamboo and cane,
are as perfectly Japanese as if a European had never touched the coast.
It may be conceived that it is difficult for the transient traveller,
who always sojourns among his countrymen, and speaks with the
natives only through an interpreter, to study Japan or its people,
The Japanese, however they may have been heretofore, are not now
jealous or suspicious. They labor cheerfully on the wharves, serve
faithfully in foreign famiues within the concessions, and manufac-
ture, in their own districts, articles of furniture and fancy goods for
foreign markets. They are polite, sagacious, and skilful traders.
* The Prime-Miaister informs Mr. Seward that the census recently taken gave thirty-
five (85) millions, but that it was erroneous, He estimates the population at fifty millions,
JAPAN.
YOKOHAMA,
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
l 1
Bee
rae <——
if
TTT OOD WATT
JAPANESE BARBERS.
barber with his scissors, combs, razors, and pomatum, is seen at all
hours of the cay in the most public places. The women brush the
September 27th.—The representations of native costumes on the i
Japanese porcelain and lacquer-work, which are found on our tables g
and in our parlors at home, are not less accurate than spirited. q
The coarse, black hair is a chief object of pride and care. The a
hair away from |
a small smooth ]
pins. The hair
enough at the s
in a graceless an
ing. The barbe
care is taken to
use, instead of a
neck, ‘The pom:
which, growing i
fringe for the bre
perors, for sumpt
in the fields, T
their dwellings,
Here, as in .
quires that the m
guishing badges.
white teeth, and y
modest costume,
immediately shav4
ments are remove
I
JAPANESE HAIRDRESSING. 43
hair away from the temples @ la Pompadour, and gather it up under
a small smooth puff at the back of the head with gilt and vermilion
pins. The hair of the men is shorn entirely off the crown, leaving
enough at the sides and back to be drawn upward and fastened
in a graceless and meaningless knot. The eflect is simply shock-
ing. The barber-work being performed only three times a week,
care is taken to prevent disarrangement in the intervals. They
use, instead of a pillow, a wooden block adjusted to the shape of the
neck, The pomatum so lavishly applied is extracted from an herb,
which, growing in the eaves of the houses, makes a pretty green
fringe for the brown thatched roofs. shey say that one of the em-
perors, for sumptuary reasons, forbade the cultivation of this plant
in the fields. Thus the people, while evading the law, beautitly
their dwellings.
Here, as in Alaska and in ancient Mexico, civil economy re-
“ty od i
JAPANESE GIRLS,
quires that the married and unmarried women shall wear distin-
guishing badges. The girl, with full hair tastefully arranged, with
. ° ul . \
white teeth, and with the free use of cosmetics, and a scrupulously
modest costume, is attractive; when married, her eyebrows are
immediately shaven off, her teeth are stained jet-black, the orna:
ments are removed from her hair, and she becumes repulsive.
hh hed
a ="
44 JAPAN, CHINA, ANI: COCHIN CHINA.
Wherever a city of the living is, there is also a greater city of
the dead. The Japanese bury on the hill-sides. Though cremation
"
hi eee
“1
gai NIny vy
CSU of
Dag:
JAPANESE CEMETERY.
is sometimes practised, the body is more generally interred in a
sitting posture, cramped within a plain, white, square box, borne to
All who attend, wear white mourn-
Burial is
hi Pies
the grave on men’s shoulders.
ing-badges. Women do not appear in the processions. at
without pomp and pageantry. <A black or gray stone obelisk is
raised over the grave.
All the cemeteries are crowded, but doubtless this is due to the
economy of land required by so dense a population. They are,
however, always shaded and green.
ASSO Io
pheasant ia la
ite ere Wiss paves toe oe
September 2
the bay of Yed
the high-road w
the town. Ac
at our landing.
is monotonous.
huddled togeth«
to Yeddo in pre
company, using
way, the project
under an appreh
will base extorti
suffer.
Ascending a
enjoyed our first
forward we had
across the plains
road-making, but
hill-tops are cove
mingled with th
At their bases a
sides being high
the woods in the
The althea, t
the passion-flowe
quire so much ca
luxuriant here.
gle; every hill ig
of land covered b
there are small
barley, sugar, bee
other vegetables,
is bestowed on o
accidental waste
bent down by the
rice, each particu
* UD. Tas Renee ee
LAND WELL CULTIVATED. 45
September 28th.—We made an excursion, by boat, to-day, on
the bay of Yeddo, to Kanagawa, and its precincts. The Tokaido,
the high-road which traverses the island of Niplon, passes through
the town. A crowd of both sexes and all ages gathered and stared
at our landing. The architecture of Japanese towns and villages
is monotonous. The buildings, public and private, are small and
huddled together. It was a pleasing surprise to find the railroad
to Yeddo in process of construction. It is undertaken by a native
company, using only Japanese capital, credit, and labor. By-the-
way, the projectors are becoming timid in prosecuting the work,
under an apprehension that, when it shall be completed, foreigners
will base extortionate claims on any accidental injuries they may
suffer.
Ascending a high hill, just beyond the town of Kanagawa, we
enjoyed our first interior view of Japanese rural scenery. Thence-
forward we had a path only five or six feet wide, which winds
across the plains and around the hill-sides, not on any principle of
road-making, but simply for the convenient use of the soil. The
hill-tops are covered with majestic cypresses and yew-trees, inter-
mingled with the chestnut, holly, pine, persimmon, and camphor.
At their bases are thick groves of the slender bamboo, which, be-
sides being highly ornamental, is the most variously useful of all
the woods in the East.
The althea, the lily, the japonica, the arbor-vite, the wisteria,
the passion-flower, and many other shrubs and creepers, which re-
quire so much care and labor in our gardens and greenhouses, are
luxuriant here. There is no waste, either by rock, marsh, or jun-
gle; every hill is terraced, every acre irrigated, every square foot
of land covered by some tree, cereal, or esculent. Instead of farms,
there are small plots, and each is tilled with cotton, flax, wheat,
barley, sugar, beets, peppers, sweet-potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and
other vegetables, by a single family, with care equal to that which
is bestowed on our flower-beds. No allowance is made for even
accidental waste of the crop. The individual wheat-stalk which is
bent down by the storm is restored and supported. Each head of
rice, each particular boll of cotton, is kept in its place until care-
me
» i “ea os
aL = &
‘ AY : \ “hy >
>» <
A JAPANESE GARDEN.
fully removed |
time in gatheri
ripens, it is har
Despotism, thou
empire obliges |
the midst of thi;
of two hundred ;
monastery, surrc
designed. We ¢
flights of steps, ez
tracted one above
generally used in
The temple |
unique and grace
elaborately, thoug
conducted us thr
ness, requiring u,
ligious observance
priests are vowed
sure and habit t]
spotless white rain
tery is divided int
but all these were
two inches thick, i
board.” There is
our collation in 0
smoking in the ney
bringing his pipe
to the floor by wa
inferred that some d
ties of the house,
corridor on every §
dais, in the centre
either side. Over
on his right, the
lawgiver. No spac
Me
}
a.
—~3
~ i
rod
MONKS AND MONASTERIES,
fully removed by the husbandman’s hand. There is no loss of
time in gathering the crops into garners; as fast as the product
ripens, it is harvested and immediately prepared for the market.
Despotism, though often cruel, is not always blind. <A law of the
empire obliges every one who fells a tree to plant another. in
the midst of this rich and beautiful landscape, within an enclosure
of two hundred acres, stands a Buddhist temple, with an adjoining
monastery, surrounded by groves such as Downing might have
designed. We came upon the base of the temple by successive
flights of steps, each reaching from a platform below to a more con-
tracted one above. The edifices are constructed of wood, which is
generally used in Japan, for greater security against earthquakes.
The temple has an overhanging roof and portico, which are
unique and graceful. The columns, architraves and cornices are
elaborately, though grotesquely carved. The bonzes received and
conducted us through the sacred edifices with ceremonious polite-
ness, requiring us to leave our boots at the door, not as a re-
ligious observance, but as a regulation of domestic economy. These
priests are vowed to celibacy and temperance, and in their ton-
sure and habit they resemble Carmelite friars, except that their
spotless white raiment is not of wool, but of soft silk. The monas-
tery is divided into numerous apartments by sliding paper doors,
but all these were thrown open to us. A fine, clean bamboo mat,
two inches thick, is spread on every floor, and serves for “ bed and
board.” There is no other furniture. While we were enjoying
our collation in one apartment, the bonzes were taking tea and
smoking in tbe next one. Each bonze, before lifting his teacup or
bringing his pipe to his lips, brought his head half a dozen times
to the floor by way of compliment to his several companions. We
inferred that some of the party were pilgrims, enjoying the hospitali-
ties of the house. The temple is a square enclosure, with an open
corridor on every side. Nearly the whole floor is covered with a
dais, in the centre of which is a large altar, with a smaller one on
either side. Over each a carved image—the middle one, Buddha ;
on his right, the mythological mikado, on the left an apostle or
lawgiver. No space is allowed for worshippers. They prostrate
47
ewer
ana 6 eee
48 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
themselves at the porch, and are content with throwing small coins
into the treasury just within the door. A cemetery near the tem-
ple is crowded with monuments of pilgrim princes and saints.
Take away from this temple its pagan devices and emblems, and
the whole place would seem to be pervadec with the very spirit of
religious devotion. It combines seclusion, repose, and silence with
solemnity. The good monks dismissed us with many blessings,
after having obtained Mr. Seward’s leave to visit him at Yokohama.
On our return, we found the bay highly agitated. Discarding the
life-boats of the Monocacy, we crossed in a native craft, rowed by
a vigilant aud active though excited and vehement crew.
years old. Th:
to the cireumst;
pedestrians, wit
used horses, anc
September 30th.—A second excursion, this time overland to
Kanagawa, southward on the Tokaido. A hundred years ago, no
part of the United States, perhaps few countries in Europe, afforded
a road equal to this in firmness and smoothness. At intervals, hot
(—4
ae aL my
pA PD . d}
ay"
TEA-HOUSE ON THE TOKAIDO,
tea in tiny cups, with cakes and sugar-plums, was brought out to us
by pretty girls, artistes in dance and song. The beverage might not
be declined, though we were not allowed to pay for it. In many
places we found circular benches arranged under trees five hundred
The Japanese
: clustering houses,
_ on either side, m
district begins or e
o °°
SS
us
mot
any
red
kis iia
paste) ace
GROUP ON THE TOKAIDO, 49
years old. This frequent provision for rest and refreshment is due
to the circumstance that travel in Japan is principally performed by
pedestrians, with the occasional use of chairs. Daimios have always
used horses, and recently foreigners have introduced vehicles.
a
GROUP ON THE TOKAIDO.
The Japanese are a busy as well asa frugal people. Thickly-
clustering houses, booths, and work-shops nearly close the road
on either side, making it difficult to distinguish where a rural
district begins or ends. Occasionally a vacant space opens a beau-
50 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN OHINA.
tiful vista. At the end of twenty miles we sent our carriages back
to Yokohama, and proceeded in chairs by a narrow pert over :
lofty hill, and then came down on the ocean-beach. The feet o
our coolie bearers sank deep in the sand, shi we enjoyed 8 re-
freshing spray which dashed in our faces. Then leaving the s ce
and following a rugged mountain-path, we came upon a high plain,
where once stood the renowned ecclesiastical capital, see
Practically speaking, Japan has no ruins. An extensive and hand-
Ne Saat 4
li WS
| eae i) |
Fa ae eT) Vin 1!
a mei =
HW,
TEMPLE AT KAMAKURA.
some temple, which still maintains its prestige, is the only ee
ment of the ancient city. A few miles beyond this temple, we a
our chairs, and, diverging from the road, we confronted a
wooden arch, fantastically painted with bright green, blue and yel-
low colors. On either side of the arch is a carved pHCRES demon,
fifteen feet high, protected by an iron railing. These figures, -
signed to be terrific, are simply hideous. They are plastered over
with moistened paper pellets, which have been cast on them by pass-
ing pilgrims. The adhesion of the pellet is taken as an assurance
that the mon
Trusting sha
the demons
tered the ga
paved court,
shrines of sto
centre of the
the Daibutz),
description by
vey an idea o
}
A’ rk
ro |
ta il! pa
fect in cireumfe
the hands are
head is covered
the god from th
THE GREAT STATUE OF BUDDHA. 51
that the monster is appeased, and consents to the visit of a votary.
Trusting that the missiles which our bearers had thrown upon
the demons had propitiated them in our favor, we boldly en-
tered the gate. Ascending a solid flight of steps, we reached a
paved court, three sides of which are graced with monumental
shrines of stone and bronze. On a pedestal six feet high, in the
centre of the square, is the gigantic statue of Buddha (famous as
the Daibutz), sitting with crossed legs, on a lotus-flower. Though
description by measurement is not poetical, we must use it to con-
vey an idea of this colossal idol. It is fifty feet high, a hundred
eee | my
,
Pra)
emma 0 oan 3 ‘
—— a | \
NT
| nara TT
—_ To
WUT
DAIBUTS,
fect in circumference at the base, and the head is nine feet long ;
the hands are brought together in front, with thumbs joined; the
head is covered with metallic snails, which are supposed to protect
the god from the sun. Some travellers find in the face an expres-
Ewer:
as.
HINA.
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN C
52
. meaning-
eo ems dull and
> subli ntemplation ; to us it se is hollow; the
sion of sublime co b prong plates, ds hollows
; The statue being made of bronze } r inclined to be-
19 6 are inc
i is shaped an« fitted as a temple. Wea Sle: es ibe
4 "OY 3 she + st oa rever
Seta he Japanese have lost their early re P-ntlortina
i ¥ . 9
lieve that the ’ 5 ulls covered with the autographs of pilg
+6 ‘ y 1 t 1e@ Wa ° . + names,
Zz; we fin Bes P register our own
Daibut silcine The bonzes invited us to mae the-pitos of old
PAVE Se Walat! hg Yr 1
he ffer to sell the god to any purchaser fo
er
and they o
copper.
VISIT To
Interview with the J;
History,—The Mil
—The Question of
Delmonico of Yed
On board the
Seward’s arrival] at
invited him to a
Japanese ministr
F were to be preser
Seward excused h
health and his ha
Wrote, at the same
private manner, an{
) pay his respects to
_ ing, we set out on
7 accompanied by Mr
Yeddo, at five o’¢]
ship’s salute,
JAPANESE BONZES,
Since our arriyal
hot, and everybody
earthquake oy temp
Voyage; but the ge;
Mr. Seward, protest
) anchor dropped, J
b
. sets:
bei
soit se gs 5 pene tessia GI SA E
CHAPTER II.
VISIT TO Y#DDO—INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO.
Interview with the Japanese Prime-Minister—Tremendous Storm.—Some Points of
History.—The Mikado and the Tycoon.—Japanese Foreign Office.—Minister Sawa.
—The Question of Saghalien.—-The Toinbs of the Tycoons.—A Speck of War.—The
Delmonico of Yeddo.—Sketches of Yeddo.—The Interview with the Mikado.
On board the Monocacy, Bay of Yeddo, October 1st.—On Mr.
Seward’s arrival at Yokohama, the Japanese Government at Yeddo
invited him to a banquet in the palace of the Hamagotén. The
Japanese ministry, with other ofticial persons, in all six hundred,
were to be present, and the prime-minister was to preside. Mr.
Seward excused himself on the ground that the condition of his
health and his habits oblige him to forego large assemblies. Ie
wrote, at the same time, that he intended visiting the capital in a
private manner, and that it would afford him pleasure if allowed to
pay his respects to the Minister of Foreign Affairs. This morn-
ing, we set out on the excursion thus proposed, in the Monocacy,
accompanied by Mr. De Long; we arrived at the anchorage before
Yeddo, at five o’clock, expecting to land immediately, under the
ship’s salute.
Since our arrival at Yokohama the weather has been intensely
hot, and everybody has been predicting some fearful convulsion of
earthquake or tempest. A wind with heavy rain gave us a rough
voyage; but the sea has now calmed, though the rain continues.
Mr. Seward, protesting against delay, asked for boats when the
anchor dropped. The ladies shrank from exposure; even the
5
D4 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
United States minister became demoralized, and Mr. Seward was
overruled ; so here we are, lying five miles from Yeddo, under the
guns of a long line of Japanese forts, built on shoals, midway be-
tween our anchorage and the city. The naval officers are to give
up their quarters to us for the night, in expectation of a calm sea
and cloudless sky to-morrow ; an expectation which Mr. Seward
desires it to be distinctly understood he does not share. In the
mean time they are entertaining us with music and conversation.
Yeddo, October 2d.—Mr. Seward was right. We retired at
eleven o’clock, to the very narrow “ regulation berths,” imprisoning
ourselves with close mosquito-nets, in the smallest of state-rooms,
looking through the open ports at a very silvery moon, bright stars,
and a smooth sea, the ship drawing nine feet on an anchorage of
three fathoms. Between us and the forts, the harbor was covered
with vessels, including a large number of Japanese steamers and
other boats, as well as Chinese junks. Some of these lay quite near
tous. There was no sleep. At four o’clock in the morning, a phios-
phorescent wave, pouring through the open ports, deluged our
At this juncture, the order came down the hatch-
The steward informed us that there was
Wrapping ourselves in our now
state-rooms.
way, ‘Close the ports.”
“something of a high sea.”
thoroughly-wetted garments, we rushed into the dark cabin, and
there overheard low conversation on the deck, which expressed
apprehension of a fearful storm. .
We were on deck at break of day. The sky wore a copper hue;
the air grew intensely hot; the barometer fell from 30° 50’ to 28° ;
a violent wind seemed to come from all quarters, and, in the midst
of a deluge of rain, blew the sea from underneath the ship, causing
her continually to bound and rebound on the sandy bottom. It
was the typhoon! Nevertheless, we remained on deck, lashed fast
in our seats, preferring the open tempest there to the close and
The captain was self-collected ; he ordered the
nauseating cabin.
Three anchors, thie
top-masts down, and every spar well secured.
ship’s entire ground-tackle, were thrown out; every vessel, and
every other object on sea and land, now disappeared from our view.
swe
With confused
that we might
in motion, to ]
Juvenile officers
dark and dreary
had been wreck
the tidal Waves,
Waters, or in any
At twelve 0%
the guns were br
warks and stanch
Spars would erus|
uncertain whethe
to pieces in hep
ing air except thy
us, Which made SO
o'clock, an ofticer,
ina low Voice, “ Tt
claimed, «Tt is the
In half an hou
and the 8ea, thong
vessels which had I
no longer there,
our presumption in
hoat’s erew manne
rowed us around tha
On the Way we pas
middle,
and hanging
dozen vessels were
Ms When
wien buildi
| buildings on tl
In the bay was the
lhe Monocacy had n
the Consulate had be
every part,
Sun
erous ba y.
set came on :
STORM IN THE BAY. 55
With confused fears that some ship might be driving against us, or
that we might be dragging toward a lee-shore, we put our engines
in motion, to keep the Monocacy up to her anchors. The more
juvenile officers, of whom, of course there were many, enlivened the
dark and dreary hours by whispered accounts of all the ships which
had been wrecked, or escaped wreck, in all the typhoons, and all
the tidal waves, and all the earthquakes that have raged in Asiatic
waters, or in any other seas, within the memory of man.
At twelve o’clock, we were driven from the deck by alarms that
t | the guns were breaking loose from their fastenings, that the bul-
“4 | warks and stanchions were giving way, and the bending masts and
Sy | spars would crush us. We took refuge once more in the cabin,
8, ' uncertain whether the ship was parting her anchors, or breaking
of _ to pieces in her berth. All the hatchways being closed, exclud-
ed ing air except through a convoluted funnel, a lethargy came over
nd ' us, which made some helpless, and nearly all hopeless. About two
ar | o'clock, an officer, anxiously and carefully consulting the glass, said
Os- | ina low voice, “it is rising,” and, after a few seconds more, he ex-
ur - claimed, “It is the end!” And so it was.
che In half an hour we were on deck again. The sky was bright,
vas —— and the sea, though yet rolling, had lost its violence. But the
ow vessels which had been moored in such dangerous proximity were
ind =F no longer there. The lee-shore was so near that we wondered at
sed =F = our presumption in having anchored there. At five o’clock, a full
boat’s crew manned a prize-gig, and with bright and merry oars
ue; rowed us around the forts to the wharf of the consulate at Yeddo.
8°; fF On the way we passed a crowded steamer, broken directly in the
idst . middle, and hanging across the rampart of the upper fort; while a
sing —— dozen vessels were seen half out of water in the shallow and treach-
- erous bay. When we saw the broken walls, overturned trees and
fallen buildings on the shore, we were convinced that our anchorage
in the bay was the safer refuge, notwithstanding all its terrors.
The Monocacy had neither parted a rop2 nor started a nail, while
| the consulate had been beaten and shattered on all sides and in
every part.
Sunset came on; while there was no rainbow, all the prismatic
me
ee
56 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
colors and hues were painted on the broken and rolling clouds, as
brilliantly and as distinctly as they are ever seen in the “arch of
promise ” itself.
With what grateful emotions did we reflect that the tempest
which so often breaks and destroys the stanchest of ships in the
Eastern seas, had been in this instance withheld, not only until we
had crossed the great ocean, but even until we had found an anchor-
age from which we had beheld the terrific phenomenon without
disaster !
Monday, October 3d.—The Monocacy having done her best to
rouse the sleepers of the capital by a salute to Mr. Seward, returned
down the bay to Yokohama. Thanks to her brave officers and no-
ble crew, with carnest wishes for their health and promotion.
The damages of the consulate have been repaired sutticiently
for our comfortable accommodation. We are guests of the minister
and the consul. At an early hour an officer came from the Minister
of Foreign Affairs, to learn when Mr. Seward would make his
promised visit. He appointed ten o’clock, to-morrow.
Before we go to the foreign office, it may be well to recall
some points of history, in order to make our observations on Yeddo
intelligible.
The people of Japan, whether indigenous here or derived from
Siberia, assumed political organization, according to their own
records, about twenty-four hundred years ago, in the two islands
of Niphon and Kiusiu. They were governed by an emperor, who,
being descended from the gods, was aivine and absolute on earth,
and when he died was worshipped. Not only was his person too
sacred to be looked upon by a stranger, but even the sur must not
shine on his head. It was sacrilegious to touch the dishes from
which he ate. At his death, his twelve wives and all their attend-
ants committed ham-kari. These attributes are still popularly con-
ceded to him. As vicegerent of Heaven, he wears the title of
Tenno; as sovereign in temporal affairs, he is the Mikado or
Emperor.
Midko, some thirty miles inland, was his ancient capital, and
“all
ddo
rom
own
ands
vho,
arti,
too
t not
from
tend-
and
I) My
i \) Hi
ors
2¥> ve
Taw
LEGATION AT YEDDO.
AMERICAN
A) Bae
nnn a
58 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Osaka its seaport. The Emperor by divine right owned the lands
in the empire, and in time graciously divided them into provinces ;
retaining five or more of these for himself, he parcelled out the
others among great lords or princes, called daimios. In the thir-
teenth century, a rebellion arose in the empire, and the Mikado,
remaining at Miako, committed the defence of the state to the
richest and strongest one of these daimios, who wore the title of
“Tycoon.” This military commander, after a short time, absorbed
the temporal sovereignty and reigned absolutely. Yeddo thus be-
came a third capital of the empire.
The Tycoon, nevertheless, paid homage to the Mikada, ‘who re-
tained his titular rank, and unquestioned spiritual authority and
preéminence. Besides the proper revenues of his own five prov-
inces, the Mikado enjoyed, for the support of his dignity, an annual
allowance made by the Tycoon, out of the general revenues of the
empire. As he cultivated religion and such science as the age
allowed, Miako became the centre of intelligence and learning. It
still retains this distinction. Osaka being an alternate residence of
the Mikado, it partook of the sanctity of the capital.
By degrees the Mikado, free from all responsibility for admin-
istration, grew in the affections of the people, while the Tycoon,
exercising his power despotically, and held responsible for all na-
tional disasters and mistortunes, became an object of public jealousy
and hatred. It was at this juncture that the United States, through
Commodore Perry, and the European powers afterward, made their
treaties with the Tycoon, in ignorance of any pretensions on the
part of the Mikado to temporal power. It was the Tycoon who
sent two successive embassies to the United States, one in 1860 and
the other in 1868. In 1865, the ministers of the Western powers,
residing at Yeddo, wrote alarming accounts of popular discontents
with the Tycoon’s administration, and of frantic appeals made to
the Mikado to resume the sovereign power, annul the treaties, and
expel foreigners from the empire. For this object, a party was
formed by powerful daimios and fanatical ecclesiastics.
While matters were in this situation, a young daimio, son of
the powerful Prince Satsuma, was improving an academic vacation
in England, to
in the Departm
of the local par
prise, he answe'
“is the cause o!
He replied: “ T
a general in the
ernment, and ¢!
intolerable.” ‘
tion was comm
dred years since
The revolut
abolished, and
leaving his spit
resumed the t!
the treaties, an
powers.
Octoser Ath.
at Mr. Seward’s
according to ov
disciplined.
After a dilig
stables in the ¢
worn English ¢
Taking
in Japanese soc
to the foreign
| and the consul
y gone forward tq
* found them fill
Jearned that M
Yo numerous natio
The foreign
ay enclosed by a §
open; Mr. Sew
escort.
VISIT TO THE FOREIGN OFFICE. 59
in England, to visit the United States. He went to Mr. Seward,
in the Department of State. He inquired of the prince to which
of the local parties in Japan he belonged. To Mr. Seward’s sur-
prise, he answered, “to the Mikado’s.” “What,” said Mr. Seward,
“is the cause of the civil war, and what question does it involve?”
He replied: “ The Tycoon, who has no title to the throne, but is only
a general in the imperial service, some time ago usurped the gov-
ernment, and claims to transmit it to his heirs. This usurpation is
intolerable.” “ How long,” said Mr. Seward, “since this usurpa-
tion was committed?” “Oh, it is very recent—it is only six hun-
dred years since it occurred.”
The revolution was successful, the dynasty of the Tycoon was
abolished, and the heaven-descended Mikado in the year 1868,
leaving his spiritual seat at Miako, repaired to Yeddo, and fully
resumed the throne of his ancestors. He promptly confirmed
the treaties, and of course was duly recognized by the Western
powers.
Octoser 4th. At nine this morning a cavalry-escort was placed
at Mr. Seward’s command. It is attentive and orderly, although,
according to our Wester ideas, not particularly well mounted or
disciplined.
After a diligent exploration of the two or three European livery-
stables in the city, the consul succeeded in procuring three well-
worn English carriages, drawn by native ponies, like those of our
escort. Taking no heed of the suggestion that women are forbidden
in Japanese society, and unknown at court, Mr. Seward proceeded
to the foreign office with the ladies, the minister, Mr. Randall
and the consul. (Mr. George IF’. Seward and Mrs. Seward have
gone forward to Shanghai.) As we drove through the streets, we
found them filled with gayly-dressed and merry crowds, and thus
Jearned that Mr. Seward’s appointment had fallen on one of the
numerous national holidays.
The foreign office is in the centre of a paved court, which is’
enclosed by a stone-wall twelve feet high. The gates were wide
open; Mr. Seward and his friends were received by hundreds of
60 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CIIINA.
official persons, with profound demonstrations of homage. The
inner building is of wood, one story high, surrounded by a broad
corridor. The corridor itself is separated from the court by sliding
sash-doors, with oiled-paper and silk instead of glass. On the inner
side the corridor opens into a succession of chambers constructed
like those of the monastery we have before described; the apart-
ments small, the ceilings low and the partitions movable panels.
The floors are covered with matting.
We were conducted through the corridor to a room a little
larger than ‘he orlevs, perhaps eighteen fect square. Some furni-
ture had bees: «.temporized here. There was a European centre-
JAPANESE OFFICER OF STATE.
table covered with
under the table, a
and a rich bronz
scools in the orde
ard being next tl
great rustling of sil
Ife bowed many ti
Seward in the Ams
as they were form:
embarrassment in.
Well he might, to
shall come” that t
race, Who, within
official circle in Jay
the ancient court of
have little sense an
interior has this in
admitted here.”
Sawa is five fe
Mongolian, with it
and an expression
feet very small ang
elaborately oiled, a
of his iicad rested :
by its shape reminq
ened under the ch
cords with tassels ]
dress was double
the upper garments
were of gold and
and stockings—thd
piece; at his side
scabbard of ivory ¢
in impression that
inconvenient and
in a very low voic
JAPANESE PRIME MINISTER. 61
table covered with an ornamental cloth, a small Brussels rng spread
under the table, and upon it a lacquered box filled with cheroots,
and a rich bronze brazier containing live charcoal. We sat on
scools in the order indicated by the Japanese usher, Mr. Sew-
ard being next the seat reserved for the host. Presently, with
great rustling of silks, Sawa, the Minister of Forcien Affairs, entered.
Ife bowed many times very low. He then gave his hand to Mr.
Seward in the American fashion, and afterward to the other visitors,
as they were formally presented, manifesting, however, some slight
embarrassment in exchanging this form of courtesy with the ladies.
Well he might, for “be it known unto all to whom these presents
shall come” that they are the only women, of whatever nation or
race, Who, within the memory of man, have been received in an
official circle in Japan. The Japanese Government is © -t behind
the ancient court of Haroun-al-Raschid, in the opinion that “\ omen
have little sense and no religion.” The porch of a temple in the
interior has this inscription: ‘ Neither horses, cattle, nor women,
admitted here.”
Sawa is five feet ten,and stout. He has the © itures of the
Mongolian, with its complexion a little relieved, clear, mild eyes,
and an expression at once intelligent and amiable; his hands and
feet very small and delicate, his hair gathered up from all sides,
elaborately oiled, and brushed and fastened in a knot. On the top
of his iead rested a curiously-carved jet-black lacquered cap, which
by its shape reminded us of a toy-boat. This ornament was fiast-
ened under the chin and behind the head, by heavy purple silken
cords with tassels large enough for modest window-curtains. Tis
dress was double—an under-tunic and trousers of dark silk reps ;
the upper garments, of the same cut, though more full and flowing,
were of gold and white brocade. He wore spotless white shoes
and stockings—the shoe and stocking of each foot being of one
piece; at his side a single sword, highly wrought, with hilt and
scabbard of ivory and gold. Some show of awkwardness gave us
an impression that he found his magnificent toilet, on this occasion,
inconvenient and uncomfortable. Looking at Mr. Seward, Sawa,
in a very low voice, pronounced, in the Japanese language, what
62 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
pe] wa «ist,
sounded like not one speech, but a snocession of seg ee
tences. The interpreter Ishtabashi, kneeling at his aide, se -
close of cach sentence signified his understanding of it : _
aspirate “Hi! hi! hi!” Sawa having finished, Ishtabashi gathere:
JAPANESE INTERPRETER, IN COURT DRESS.
. ]
up the sense of these fragmentary speeches, and rendered the whole
into English, as follows: Z
“Mr, Seward, all the ministers of Japan proposed to neneINS
you on your arrival at Yeddo, at such a time as you would fae
But this is a holiday in our country. It is our custom ae at Ly
olic inisters repai the castle
hour, on every holiday, all the ministers repair to eec :
and pay their homages to his Majesty the Tenao. he : 1
ministers have gone there for that purpose. I have obtained from
his Majesty tl
behalf of my a:
Mr. Sewarc
had unwitting]
Sawa resur
by character.
happy to see it.
Mr. Seward
Japan, and bec
The Ministe
80 long a journ
some. You sh
All of us will b
a statesman,”
We are not :
long and intere
deferential on bi
fession of politic
was asking Mr, {
United States
the boundary-qu
Saghalien. Mr
responsibility, tr
the United Stat
other side of the
them concerning
Russian waters,
becoming serious
States purchasing
Continent. “W
suggestion that J
The minister
tated; then, look
answered : “ All ¢
lien belongs to Ji
tory which we ow
ole
ive
int.
his
tle,
her
INTERESTING CONVERSATION. 63
his Majesty the indulgence to remain here, and receive you in
behalf of my associates.”
Mr. Seward thanked the minister, and expressed regret that he
had unwittingly chosen so unsuitable a day for his visit.
Sawa resumed: “I have heard of you much, and I knew you
by character. I see your face now for the first time, and I am
happy to see it.”
Mr. Seward answered, that it afforded him great pleasure to sce
Japan, and become acquainted with its government.
The Minister: “I am happy that you have arrived safely after
so longa journey. 1 see that you are very old and very hand-
some. You show high resolution in making so great a voyage.
All of us will be glad to avail ourselves of your large experience as
a statesman.”
We are not a practical reporter, and therefore cannot detail the
long and interesting conversation which followed. It was highly
deferential on both sides. Some parts of it showed that the pro-
fession of politics is the same in Japan as in other countries. Sawa
was asking Mr. Seward’s good offices to obtain a mediation by the
United States Government, to effect an adjustment with Russia of
the boundary-question which involves the title to the island of
Saghalien. Mr. Seward, hardly willing to assume so grave a
responsibility, tried to divert Sawa’s attention from it, saying that
the United States and Russia were once near neighbors on the
other side of the Pacific Ocean, and that a dispute arose between
them concerning the right of American seamen to take fish in
Russian waters. The controversy, just at the moment when it was
becoming serious, was happily brought to an end by the United
States purchasing the entire Russian possessions on the American
Continent. “What would you think,” he added, playfully, “of a
suggestion that Japan shall, in the same way, purchase Saghalien ?”
The minister hesitated, cast his eyes on the floor, and medi-
tated; then, looking up with a smile of conscious satisfaction, he
answered: ‘ All our histories agree that the entire island of Sagha-
lien belongs to Japan now. We could not buy from Russia terri-
tory which we own ourselves !”’
els
ad be a
xo hp ll
i) rakes eee uh
NM ign
the
; i
yr’ wi
Wer RY
ph eee ey,
i = =
pine
— FFE EAS -
SHE BA
oF
SPIGA
That is so
are like the pe
out that you ¢
you can buy it
During th
pagne and cake
floor whenever
hour and a half
est in Yeddo w
plained the arr
then, stipulating
afternoon, the
leave by bowin;
Yeddo is as
inhabited distri
ated to civil an
districts, it is d
built in the sam
it is impossible
As Sawa ha
cious grounds w
ruled in Japan
granite, others
but in impressi
in the West.
familiar in West
The monument;
many lantern-b
commemorative
expressing the a
tributary struct
great taste. Ea
trained into a sl
By the side ¢
with hideous de
forked wings, fl
SHE BA
oF
INT Etro
Sed
a Ta
THE TOMBS OF THE TYCOONS. 65
“That is so,” replied Mr. Seward, “and, if the people of Japan
are like the people of the United States, you will very soon find
out that you can no more sell your own territory to others than
you can buy it from them.”
During the conversation, tea and cigars, and afterward cham-
pagne and cakes, were served by attendants who crouched on the
floor whenever they received or executed a command. After an
hour and a half passed, Sawa mentioned the places of special inter-
est in Yeddo which he thought Mr. Seward ought to see, and ex-
plained the arrangements which had been made for that purpose ;
then, stipulating a private interview with Mr. De Long for the
afternoon, the Minister of Foreign Affairs rose and took a graceful
leave by bowing and shaking hands cordially with the whole party.
Yeddo is a singular combination of compactly-built and densely-
inhabited districts, with intervening gardens and groves, appropri-
ated to civil and religious uses. When in one of those populous
districts, it is difficult to conceive that the whole vast city is not
built in the same way; and when in one of the deeply-shaded parks,
it is impossible to realize that you are in the heart of a great city.
As Sawa had suggested, we proceeded first to Sheba, the spa-
cious grounds which contain the colossal tombs of the Tycoons who
ruled in Japan so many centuries. Some of the tombs are of
granite, others of bronze. They surpass, not only in costliness,
but in impressive effect, any imperial or royal modern cemetery
in the West. The sarcophagus, the obelisk, and the shaft, forms
familiar in Western monumental architecture, equally prevail here.
The monuments bear no epitaphs, but each is surrounded with
many lantern-bearing votive shrines, covered with inscriptions
commemorative of the virtues and achievements of the dead, and
expressing the affection and gratitude of the princes by whom the
tributary structures were erected. The domain is planted with
great taste. Each particular tree and shrub has been formed and
trained into a shape suggestive of religious sentiment.
By the side of the cemetery stands the Temple of Sheba. What
with hideous devices of the great red dragon of Japan, with his
forked wings, flaming mane, and powerful claws, the monstrous
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
TOMBS OF THE TYCOONS,
transformations of Buddha into lions rampant and roaring, pea-
cocks proud and strutting, and sagacious storks stalking and
prophesying, the interior of the temple is a weird combination
of the mythic and the terrific.
Though we have experienced neither menace nor insult, our
guard is nevertheless indispensable to protect us against intrusive
curiosity. The crowds gather around, and follow us wherever we
alight and wherever we go. Perhaps the escort might be needed
in case of sudden excitement or tumult, such as is liable to happen
in every great city.
That was not only a seasonable but a pretty and pleasant break-
fast which Sir Harry and Lady Parkes gave us at the British lega-
tion. It did not need the after d/vertissement of native legerdemain,
The zeal and efticiency of Sir Harry Parkes, as minister, are well
known, Lady Parkes is not less distinguished for the spirited man-
ner in which she sustains him in his diplomatic studies and labors.
We left the British legation in compact procession, as we had
entered it, Mr. Seward and Mr. De Long leading in a pony-carriage,
vi
|
an :
wi
'
“ie
i
i,
ni
bid tH i 1
hy
HHH
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ili
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YEDDO,
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JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
68
Ccu-
oS
I 9 Mi . e al d
mh)
|
ti
oe \
BRITISH LEGATION, YEDDO,
across one of the canals, and famous in Japanese a
Nippon-Bas. There they became aware that the other . a
had fallen ont of sight. The street which intervened _ ‘ae
with holiday crowds, drawing huge, painted idols, mountec
trucks. These ¢
missing carriage:
riage gesticulatec
Western gentlem
is a fight; the ],
sprang from the
his long whip in
determined to eff
little pon y-carriag
creasing native er
and left, found th
rods distant from
floor of a silk-merc
consul, sipping te:
cheapening of Japa
the minister pocke
most pacific manne
found safe on the b
uncertain what was
at this discovery, wl
protégées in safety,
yielded to groundle
main body of the ]
the oceasion of the
trouble,
October 5th.i— A
the Hamagotén and
feasted. The palace
luxuriously furnishec
propriately called the
rated exclusively wit
tions, and go well ex
air stirred by their m
of Central Park in N
There are quaint bar
A GROUNDLESS ALARM. 69
trucks. These crowds were rapidly moving in the direction of the
missing carriages. The guards who surrounded the forward car-
riage gesticulated, in a manner betokening alarm. Mr. De Long, a
Western gentleman, becoming excited, said to Mr. Seward, “ There
is a fight; the ladies are attacked!” With this exclamation, he
sprang from the carriage and rushed back at the top of his speed,
his long whip in his left hand and a Colt’s revolver in his right,
determined to effect a rescue. Mr. Seward remained sitting in the
little pony-carriage on the Nippon-Bas, attracting a constantly in-
creasing native crowd. Mr. De Long, scattering the natives right
and left, found the carriages in the clear, open street, a hundred
rods distant from the bridge and vacant, while, upon the matted
floor of a silk-merchant’s “ go-down,” he found the ladies with the
consul, sipping tea, a ceremony always introductory here to the
cheapening of Japanese crapes and gauzes. Without saying a word,
the minister pocketed his revolver, and, lowering his whip in the
most pacific manner, walked quickly back to Mr. Seward, whom he
found safe on the bridge, Even at this hour of writing, it remains
uncertain what was the sentiment which overpowered Mr. De Long
at this discovery, whether it was one of satisfaction at finding his
protégées in safety, or of mortification at having so impulsively
yielded to groundless alarm. Neither the advance-guard, nor the
main body of the procession, has been able to discover what was
the oceasion of the Japanese excitement which produced so much
trouble.
October 5th.—A busy day, but less eventful. We have visited
the Hamagotén and its palace, where Mr. Seward was to have been
feasted. The palace, built and ornamented in Japanese style, is
luxuriously furnished in the European. One of the saloons is ap-
propriately called the Cool-room, its walls and ceilings being deco-
rated exclusively with huge pictured fans, in many different posi-
tions, and so well executed that you might fancy that you feel the
air stirred by their motion. The grounds are as extensive as those
of Central Park in New York, and not less elaborately embellished.
There are quaint bamboo summer-houses, with pretty scroll roofs,
% ee
covered with
houses, standi
There are gro’
Stately shade
castles, and sl
the smooth ba
From the
wonderingly e
have seen. Si
far from being
temple, a bowl
has been made,
ered with a sto
and falls with
look with reve
the other browr
caparisoned, oe
in perpetual rea
beasts are maint
tics in Japan, as
expedients for r
Osakasa are rey
entertainments,
A dinner was
of Yeddo. Leay
and our boots at
highly-polished
dozen chambers
the clean matte:
person. It was ¢
mall covers, T
and piping hot.
fiery and distaste
small, shallow, r¢
tea-sauecers, Our
eleven pretty gir
THE JAPANESE DELMONICO’S, 71
covered with hundreds of creepers, known to us only in onr green-
houses, standing in the midst of lakes well stocked with gold-fish.
There are groves of mulberries, chestnuts, persimmons, and oranges.
Stately shade-trees, cut and twisted into the shapes of animals,
castles, and ships, crown hundreds of high knolls which overlook
the smooth bay of Yeddo.
From the Hamagotén, we drove to old Osakasa, where we
wonderingly examined a temple which surpasses all the others we
have seen. Superstition, though abating in Japan, is nevertheless
far from being extinct. They show at Sheba, in the court of the
temple, a bowlder, in the top of which a deep, smooth, circular basin
has been made, which is filled with water, and kept carefully cov-
ered with a stone lid. It is an accepted belief that this water rises
and falls with the ocean-tide. At Osakasa we were required to
look with reverence upon two native ponies (one cream-colored,
the other brown), both nicely trimmed and groomed, and superbly
caparisoned, occupying apartments neat as a parlor, They remain
in perpetual readiness for the equestrian exercises of the gods. The
beasts ave maintained by pious contributions of pilgrims. Ecclesias-
tics in Japan, as sometimes they do elsewhere, resort to questionable
expedients for raising money. The highly-ornamented grounds of
Osakasa are rented for tea-houses, theatrical exhibitions, jugglers’
entertainments, and other popular amusements.
A dinner was ordered for us at a tea-house—the “ Delmonico’s”
of Yeddo. Leaving our carriages with the escort in the streets,
and our boots at the door, we were ushered up a very steep, but
highly-polished wooden staircase into a chamber, ov rather a
dozen chambers divided by sliding-doors. Tere we sat down on
the clean matted floor. A lacquered table was set before each
person. It was eight or ten inches high, and large enough for two
mall covers. Tea in little caps without saucers was served, clear,
and piping hot. After the tea, saki,a liquor distilled from rice,
fiery and distasteful, was poured from a porcelain vase into such
small, shallow, red, lacquered vessels as we sometimes mistake for
tea-saueers. Our hostess, a middle-aged matron, was assisted by
eleven pretty girls, their ages arying from twelve to sixteen.
% »*
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
72 The dinne
There was a
These attendants, by the elegance of their costume and abundance
of white cosmetics, had enhanced their beauty to the degree that,
in Oriental speech, it would be said that * every one of them ig a
temptation to the servants of God.” One of them went down on
her knees beside each guest, and remained there until it was time
to bring on, with the tiniest of delicate hande, a new course. Their
actions were graceful and modest, thei: voices bird-like. They
manifested childish delight at every compliment We gave them, and
their pleasure seemed to rise te ecstasy when permitted to examine
our watches, fans, parasols and other articles of dress or ornament.
slices with hor:
rice, and man
These courses 1
tionery. Saki
ceremony. Al]
not analyze. Ey
the entertainm
instrument, in
played and san;
airs were not \
and monotonot
could find no m
ticulation were
rules of the ba
long and heavy
and most of the
we left this “h
us from the bar
4 Their grateful
their soft and g
We needed
streets, now din
¢
5
oO
our dragoons w
furiously forwai
myriads of bat
returning from
amusements, inf
October 6th.
by Mr. Seward,
have acquired |
| inquired for the
4 moto Judaiyu, y
there has been
JAPANESE MUSICIAN.
A SELF-DENYING ORDINANCE. 73
The dinner, however, was rather a self-denying ordinance.
There was a vegetable soup flavored with soy, raw fish in thin
slices with horse-radish, petty bits of game, various preparations of
rice, and many dishes whose composition was unascertainable.
These courses were intermingled with sweetened fruits and confec-
tionery. Saki was offered with every course, and always with great
ceremony. All the dishes had one common flavor, which we could
not analyze. Even the sugar had this raw, indescribable taste. After
the entertainment, the girls, sitting on the floor, each with a rude
instrument, in form a compromise between the banjo and the guitar,
played and sang, and at intervals rose and danced. Though the
airs were not without melody and harmony, they were so crude
and monotonous that the highest expert in the “heavenly art”
could find no musical meaning in them. The posturing and ges-
ticulation were artistic, though the dancing was conducted on no
rules of the ballet. Great skill was displayed in the dance, the
long and heavy dresses of the performers always covering the fect,
and most of the time even the hands. Night overtook us before
we left this “haunt of delight,” and the performers accompanied
us from the banqueting-floor to our carriages in the dark street.
Their grateful gestures and speaking smiles were intelligible, though
their soft and gentle words were not.
We needed to drive with much care through the crowded
streets, now dimly lighted with an occasional paper lantern. But
our dragoons were men “dressed in brief authority ;” they dashed
furiously forward, and, with shrieking shouts and screams, startling
myriads of bats from the thatched roofs, they drove the people,
returning from their daily occupations, or listening to theatrical
amusements, into the open doors or alleys.
October 6th.—The day began at Yeddo with an audience given
by Mr. Seward, at the consulate. The visitors were Japanese who
have acquired some knowledge of foreign nations. Mr. Seward
inquired for the Tycoon’s ambassadors, Ono Tomogoro and Mats-
moto Judaiyu, with whom he had negotiated in Washington. But
there has been a revolution. The Mikado, then only a nominal
, oD
74 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
sovereign, is now absolute at the castle. The Tycoon is a prisoner
of state; Ono Tomogoro is also a prisoner, nobody knows where,
and Matsmoto Judaiyu is a fugitive—some say at Shanghai, others
at San Francisco. It seems to surpass Japanese comprehension
that a new administration of the Government of the United States
has come in, and that Mr. Seward has gone out of place without
losing his head or public consideration.
While Mr, Seward was holding his audience, the ladies shopped.
The Japanese artisans contrive to produce exquisite articles of
taste and vertu from cheap materials, and with an infinitesimal
proportion of the precious metals. Their modern porcelain is
inferior to the Chinese, but they excel in ornamental lacquer-work
and fans of all sorts. Their designs in bronze are exceedingly
curious, but their execution inferior to that of Europeans. In
painting they are unsurpassed in the imitation of all forms of animal
life. With a keen sense of the ludicrous, they may yet come to be
employed as caricaturists in our presidential elections !
There is no special manufacture at Yeddo. It is an emporium
for the whole empire. We have found it impossible to ascertain
the districts in which particular classes of articles are made. The
shops are small and closely packed with wares. The indifference
assumed by the merchants would be provoking, if it were not for
their extreme politeness. If the buyer means to obtain a fair bar-
gain, he must affect equal reserve and indifference. The entire
family look on, half a dozen men and three or four women busying
themselves in every sale, Indeed, the house and the shop are one.
Four feet square of matting in the centre of the shep is the common
dining-room and bedroom. Must they not eat and sleep by turns ¢
The United States minister was recalled to Yokohama last
night. Captain Bachelor put the reins of two fine American horses
into our hands, to drive in a light New-England phaeton down the
Tokaido to Yokohama. Mr. Randall conveyed the other ladies in a
carriage drawn by Mr. De Long’s mottled native ponies. Exch car-
riage was attended by two bettos, quick-footed boys, whose service is
to run like coach-dogs by the side of horse or carriage, warning
everybody out of the way, and they are ready to seize and hold
fe)
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76 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
the horses at every stopping-place, or in any case of alarm. The
road was literally crowded, and hilarity and merriment displayed
themselves on all sides. The crowds were labyrinthian. The
activity and songs of the deétos, and the ejaculations and impreca-
tiuns of our mounted guard, with the clangor of their arms, made
our rapid drive a very exciting one, while a bracing air with genial
sunshine was exhilarating. But all pleasures have their draw-
Neither the bettos nor the dragoons were capable of under-
They wanted rest at
backs.
standing our requests or remonstrances.
every tea-house, or, what was the same thing, they sought favor at
the tea-houses by bringing us wp at the doors. The guard dis-
mounted, and, with the deftos, took the refreshments profusely of-
fered them, while we, though declining any, were obliged to wait.
When we had made twelve miles, half the distance to Yokohama,
we brought up at a hostelry, with a stable. Our horses were taken
out to be fed and groomed. From open windows in an upper
chamber we saw in the court a huge brass caldron sunk in the
ground over an oven. The horses were brought to it. Four
grooms took possession of each horse, and rubbed him thoroughly
from head to hoof with wisps of straw dripping with hot water, and
afterward dried him with as much care as the human patient re-
ceives when he comes out of a Turkish bath. We improved the
time by a Japanese dinner, which, when we were completely sur-
feited, we left unfinished, very much to the disappointment of the
Once more on the road, we indulged a faint hope
We came, after three or
music-girls.
of reaching Yokohama before midnight.
four miles, to the bank of a river twenty rods wide. There was one
rough flat-boat on the other side, worked by an endless chain. We
awaited its tedious arrival and delivery of passengers multitudinous
and various. Then our beasts were led separately into the boat
and crossed. It returned to our shore, and, as in the riddle of the
fox, goose and peck of corn, took the dragoons and the carriages.
‘* Last came joy’s ecstatic trial.” We hurried on board, and, reach-
ing the opposite bank, found the vehicles there, but not the horses.
We were obliged to walk forward a quarter of a mile, to a place
where the bdetfos and cavalry were taking tea and smoking, as if they
had fasted the
the impedimer
majestic size e
the bay as we a
after frequently
high hill, and i
ficult part of t.
hill by the det
attached. Mea
gated paper lar
hama resound ©
ment and perha
at Mr. Walsh’s
friends within, \
apprehensive fon
Steamship N
have embarked,
latest and most |
Seward was not
onstration from
respect from the
the 6th, he recei
This ceremony
formalities even 1
being shortened,
Yesterday mornin
too short after |
clatter of mechani
in constructing y
house, a broad sg
supper-rooms, T
With flags and tro
fanciful lanterns. —
“Tail Columbia,’
the diplomatie anc
ARRIVAL AT YOKOHAMA,
17
had fasted the whole day. Then they went back and brought up
the impedimenta. <A brilliant, full-orbed moon expanded into
majestic size every object that we passed, and lit up the waters of
the bay as we approached Kanagawa. Mr. De Long’s native ponies,
after frequently giving out on the way, fell in climbing the sharp,
high hill, and it taxed our own horsemanship to get over this dit:
ficult part of the road. The other carriage was drawn over the
hill by the dedéos and dragoons, and the ponies were then re-
attached. Meantime éettos and dragoons lighted each his varie-
gated paper lantern, They made the suburban streets of Yoko-
hama resound with vociferous shouts, thus exciting the astonish-
ment and perhaps the fears of this inoffensive people. We arrived
at Mr. Walsh’s hospitable gate, much to the satisfaction of our
friends within, who, owing to the lateness of the hour, had become
apprehensive for our safety.
Steamship New York, off the Coast of Japan, October 8th.--We
have embarked, without having had time on shore to record the
latest and most striking incidents of our visit at Yokohama. Mr.
Seward was not allowed to leave Japan without a marked dem-
onstration from the government, as well as an expression of
res, ect from the foreign residents. On our return from Yeddo, on
the 6th, he received an invitation to an audience of the Mikado.
This ceremony is usually distinguished by procrastinations and
formalities even more tedious than in European courts. The time
being shortened, however, in this case, the invitation was accepted.
Yesterday morning, we were awakened from sleep, which was quite
too short after our drive on the previous day, by an infinite
clatter of mechanics, upholsterers, and decorators, who were engaged
in constructing with canvas, all around Mr. Walsh’s very large
house, a broad suite of saloons, dancing-halls. waiting-rooms and
supper-rooms. The whole was completed during the day, decorated
with flags and tropical shrubbery, and flowers, and softly lighted by
fanciful lanterns. The band of the German naval squadron played
“Tail Columbia,” and the ball was opened at ten o’clock. All
the diplomatic and consular corps were present, as well as the naval
gern
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we have before inti
populations. Cast
sal civilization. T
generous hospitalit
journ with Mr. anc
At two o’clock
yet going on, Capt:
Mr. Walsh’s compc
yacht and received
strance, persisted in
of a driving wind a1
Mr. Shepherd, and
ing three or four 1
Yeddo. At eight ¢
Japanese costume,
words: “I am waitii
the great castle, whe
not in the customar
an expression of per
commanded to mak
posed audience.”
At nine o’clock
an enlarged mountd
design or not, thro
closures, which are
daimios who, under
reside during altern
capital. The discont
the Mikado, is a sin,
& more popular syst
kings of Europe whe
The barracks vacated
imperial battalions.
been a ferocious crey
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. rs)
officers of the United States and other nations, and foreign resi-
dents. Of course, not one Japanese of either sex was there, for, as
we have before intimated, there is no social intermingling of the two
populations. Caste and race are unrelenting antagonists to univer-
sal civilization. This beautiful ball crowned most gracefully the —
generous hospitalities of which we were recipients during our so-
journ with Mr. and Mrs. Walsh.
At two o’clock yesterday morning, while the merry dance was
yet going on, Captain Bachelor brought to the wharf, in front of
Mr. Walsh’s compound, then so highly illuminated, a little steam-
yacht and received Mr. Seward on board, who, against all remon-
strance, persisted in keeping his engagement, although in the midst
of a driving wind and rain. He was accompanied by Mr. De Long,
Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Walsh, and at six o’clock, after ground-
ing three or four times on the way, they were safely landed at
Yeddo. At eight o’clock, Mr. Ishtabashi appeared in rich official
Japanese costume, and, profoundly bowing, said, with measured
words: “I am waiting for the honor of conducting Mr. Seward to
the great castle, where he will be received by his Majesty the Tenno ;
not in the customary official manner, but in a private audience, as
an expression of personal respect and friendship. I am particularly
commanded to make this explanation of the character of the pro-
posed audience.” .
At nine o’clock the party proceeded in two carriages, with
an enlarged mounted escort. They were conducted, whether by
design or not, through streets bordered by immense walled en-
closures, which are the strongholds and barracks of the several
daimios who, under the Tycoon’s administration, were required ta
reside during alternate periods, with their armed retainers, at the:
capital. The discontinuance of this usage, since the restoration of
the Mikado, is a singular illustration of the same advance toward
& more popular system of government which was made by the
kings of Europe when they reduced the feudal barons to subjection.
The barracks vacated by the daimios’ soldiers are now occupied by
imperial battalions. The feudal soldiers of the Tycoon must have
been a ferocious crew, if they were more savage than these rough
80 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
and ill-looking guards of the Tenno. The citadel, called “ The Great
Castle,” crowns an eminence in the centre of the city. It is a triple
fortification, nine miles in circumference, consisting of three con-
centric forts, each by itself complete, with rampart, inner embank-
ment, ditch, bastion and glacis, parapet and double gates. The
outer fort stands on a level with the plain, the next higher, and the
central one higher still, overlooking the country and the sea. The
walls of each are fifty feet high, built of granite blocks, more mas-
sive than those of the Rip-Raps, off Old Point Comfort. The impe-
rial palace is in the centre of the inner fort. It is a low structure,
differing from the temples and monasteries which we have before
described, not in ruaterial or style of architecture, but in the ar-
rangement of its apartments. The area which surrounds it is
tastefully planted and adorned with lawns, winding gravelled
walks, small lakes, and what we would call summer-houses, and
tenements for attendants and servants. The areas of the other two
fortifications are similarly embellished. In any past stage of mili-
tary science, the citadel must have been impregnable. We cannot
learn its history.
When Mr. Seward and his friends had reached the gates of the
outer fort, they were received with a salute at each of the double
portals, and were permitted to pass through in carriages to the
gates of the second. They were received here with similar hon-
ors, and passed to the gates of the third. Entering these with
salutes as before, they were received by one of the eight Ministers
of Foreign Affairs, who, having requested them to dismiss their
carriages, conducted them, with much obeisance, across the lawns
to a sheltered place, where they rested on lacquer stools. Here a
second Minister of Foreign Affairs joined the party, and, making
new compliments, led them to seats on the shore of a small lake.
Here the minister informed Mr. Seward that Mr. Walsh, being an
unofficial gentleman, could proceed no farther, and that the same
rule excluded Freeman. They stopped. At this juncture Sawa,
chief Minister of Foreign Affairs, met Mr. Seward, and conducted
him to a summer-house more spacious than the others, which over-
looks a larger and deeper lake. On the way thither, he obtained a
view of a part «
long is fixed th
iron-gray Japan
in readiness for.
ence. When th
minister, the Ch
departments, we
by Sawa to Mr.
oblong table, the
other visitors on
The prime-minisi
dressed Mr. Sew
briefly replied.
tea, cakes, confec
brought in by att
at every offer of t
direct but most
custom of his Ma;
ness affairs in an
pose, and called a
recognizes you as
the welfare of al
showing his hig
court, but in a ]
down from his p
Mr. Seward a
scension and kin
Mr. Seward, looki
tance his friend
cinet which had b
hurriedly into the
summer-house, an
upon Mr. Seward
droppers should
farther,
When half an
i is
‘led
and
two
nili-
not
the
ble
the
10n-
with
ters
heir
wns
re a
king
lake.
gan
pane
awa,
heted
over:
ed a
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 81
view of a part of the imperial stud. A rail twelve or fifteen feet
long is fixed three feet above the ground, on supports. Several
iron-gray Japanese ponies, unattended by grooms, stood at this rail,
in readiness for his Majesty’s use at the close of the proposed audi-
ence. When the party had arrived at the summer-house, the prime-
minister, the Chief Minister of Finance and the heads of the other
departments, were found waiting, and they were severally presented
by Sawa to Mr. Seward. The whole party then sat down at an
oblong table, the prime-minister presiding, and Mr. Seward and the
other visitors on his left hand, the Japanese ministers on his right.
The prime-minister first, and after him each of his associates, ad-
dressed Mr. Seward in words of courteous welcome, to which he
briefly replied. A pleasant conversation now ensued, during which
tea, cakes, confectionery, cigars and champagne, were successively
brought in by attendants, who prostrated themselves on the ground
at every offer of their service. The prime-minister then, in a very
direct but most courteous way, said to Mr. Seward: “It is the
custom of his Majesty the Tenno to receive official visits upon busi
ness affairs in an edifice which is built for that express public pur-
pose, and called among us a court; but his Majesty on this occasion
recognizes you as a special friend of Japan, and a man devoted to
the welfare of all nations, and he therefore proposes, by way of
showing his high respec. for you, to receive you, not at a public
court, but in a private lodge of his own, to which he will come
down from his palace to meet you.”
Mr. Seward answered that he appreciated his Majesty’s conde-
scension and kindness. While this conversation was going on,
Mr. Seward, looking through an open window, saw at a long dis-
tance his friend Mr. Walsh, and Freeman, walking within the pre-
cinct which had been appointed them. Presently, an officer came
hurriedly into the presence of the grave international council at the
summer-house, and announced an intrusion. The prime-minister,
upon Mr. Seward’s explanation, directed that the supposed eaves-
droppers should not be interfered with, but they must come no
farther.
When half en hour had passed, a chamberlain announced his
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
82
Majesty’s arrival at the summer-house. Sawa and Ishtabashi re-
mained with Mr. Seward ; all the other ministers took leave to join
the Mikado. A final summons came to Sawa; he rose and con-
ducted the party some distance along a smooth, narrow walk, till
they came to a high, shaded knoll, conversing by the way The
minister and Ishtabashi now stopped, and, making low genu-
flections, announced, in subdued and almost whispering tones; that
his Majesty was to be in a summer-house directly behind this hill,
After this, there was no word spoken. When they had gone nourid
the knoll, the lodge which now contained the heaven-derived Maj.
esty span came to view. It stands five feet above the ground, ig
one story high, and consists of four square rooms of equal Bize, with
sliding partitions, the ceilings six feet high, and the whole building
surrounded by a veranda. All the rooms were thrown open, and
were without furniture. The visitors entered the apartment, which
was at their left, and, looking directly forward, saw only Ishtabashi
surrounded by a crowd of official persons, all crouched on the floor,
Having reached the exact centre of the room, Mr. Reward was
requested to turn to the right. He did this without changing his
place. The United States minister and the consul stood at his right
hand. In this position he directly confronted the Mikado, who was
sitting on a throne raised on a dais two feet above the floor. The
throne ‘s a large arm-chair, apparently of burnished gold, not differ-
ent in form or ornamert from the thrones which are used on cere.
monial occasions in European courts. All the cabinet ministers
and many other officials had arranged themselves below the dais,
and behind and around the throne. The Mikado was dressed in a
voluminous robe of reddish-brown brocade, which covered his whole
person. His head-dress differed in fashion nem wat which was
‘worn by Sawa in our audience with him, only in this, that kind
of curved projecting prong was attached to the boat-shaped cap,
and bent upward, the corresponding appurtenances of the nntnitater 8
cap being shorter, and bent downward. What with the ip soaion
of the dais, and the height of his elongated cap, the emperor’s a
son, though in a sitting posture, seemed to stretch from the :,
to the ceiling. His appearance in that flowing costume, surrounde
by a mass of r
equally redund
Seward of som
sitting in the cl
nor particular!
held a sceptre i
ornamented, st
thought of the ,
square, swallow
loons, and stiff,
nounce betweer
his sceptre, and
the United Stat
that he might s
bowing three se
good health.”
The prime-n
written paper, o
peror, after lool
The prime-minig
kneeling, broug!
from a translatio
gracious answer
Thereupon M
worthy of a We
“T have the
ard, a citizen of
pleased to invite
speak of the achi
can statesman.”
The interpre
Mr. De Long reg
tion from the
said: “T am de
sovereion, at the
pire. I desire ¢
ffer-
ere-
sters
dais,
ina
vhole
was
kind
cap,
ster’s
ation
5 per-
floor
nded
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 83
by a mass of ministers and courtiers, enveloped in variegated and
equally redundant silken folds, resting on the floor, reminded Mr.
Seward of some of the efforts in mythc'ogy to represent a deity
sitting in the clouds. His dark countenance is neither unintelligent
nor particularly expressive. He was motionless as a statue. He
held a sceptre in his right hand, and at his left side wore one richly-
ornamented, straight sword. What the Mikado and his court
thought of the costumes of his visitors, with their uncovered heads,
square, swallow-tailed dress-coats, tight white cravats, tighter panta-
loons, and stiff, black boots, we shall never know. Who shall pro-
nounce between nations in matters of costume? The Mikado raised
his sceptre, and the prime-minister, kneeling, then announced to
the United States minister, by the aid of Ishtabashi, also kneeling,
that he might speak. Mr. De Long advanced a step or two, and,
bowing three several times, said: “I hope I find your Majesty in
good health.”
The prime-minister, kneeling again, presented to the Mikado a
written paper, open, and as large as a sheet of foolscap. The Em-
peror, after looking at its contents, touched it with his sceptre.
The prime-minister read it aloud in Japanese. Ishtabashi, again
kneeling, brought his head to the floor, and, then raising it, read,
from a translation which lay before him on the floor, his Majesty’s
gracious answer: “Iam very well; I am glad to see you here.”
Thereupon Mr. De Long, thus reassured, said in a distinct voice,
worthy of a Western orator as he is:
“T have the honor to present to your Majesty, William H. Sew-
ard, a citizen of the United States. Your Majesty having been
pleased to invite him to this audience, it is unnecessary for me to
speak of the achievements or of the character of this eminent Ameri-
can statesman.”
The interpreter, having rendered this speech into Japanese,
Mr. De Long resumed his place. In accordance with an intima-
tion from the prime-minister, Mr. Seward now advanced, and
said: “I am deeply impressed by this gracious reception by the
sovereign, at the capital of this great, populous, and emulous em-
pire, I desire to express earnest wishes for your Majesty’s per-
84 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
sonal health and happiness, and for the peace, welfare, and pros-
perity of Japan.”
The prime-minister held before his Majesty another paper,
which, being read by him, was then rendered by the interpreter as
follows :
“Tam glad to see you now for the first time. I congratulate
you on your safe arrival here, after the very long journey you have
made. The great experience which you have had must enable you
to give me important information and advice how to promote the
friendship that happily exists between your country and my own.
If you would please to communicate any thing in that way, you are
requested to make it known to my prime-minister, and I invite you
to express yourself frankly and without reserve.”
Mr. Seward replied: “I thank your Majesty for this gracious
permission to confer with the prime-minister on international
affairs. A citizen of the United States, I am visiting Japan and
the adjacent countries on the Pacific coast, as a traveller and ob-
server. I wear no official character, and I bring no message. The
President, however, and all my countrymen, will expect me not to
leave any thing undone which I can do, to promote a happy under-
standing between those countries and the United States, as well as
also the advancement of civilization in both hemispheres. With
this view, I shall, with great pleasure, avail myself of the privileges
which your Majesty has granted me.”
The Empevor, with his entire court, remained in place until the
visitors had retired, after an exchange of salutations. They were
conducted back to the summer-house. All the Japanese ministers
soon entered and resumed their places around the table. Refresh
ments were served, and Mr. Seward was informed that his audience
was the first occasion or which the Mikado has completely unveiled
himself to a visitor. Not only the prime-minister, but all his asso-
ciates, discussed with Mr. Seward at much length the political re-
lations of Japan with foreign powers. The minister desired him
to take notice that the government, in dealing with the vanquished
Tycoon’s party in Japan, at the close of the late revolution, had
copied the example of toleration given them by the United States.
They carefully ;
United States in
of the system of
They wrote ¢
Peking, and, del
interest at that
points: First, th
is conducted in a
nations, yet that
of its impartialit
is sincerely emul
in the near futu:
more rapid accep
sentiments, than
The ministers
tion. They expr
that he was oblige
where the stcame:
the citadel and t
turned to the C
directly to this std
A box followe
fectionery, which
The ladies noticec
ored externally, by
and indigo. The
Tt ought not td
state that the audi
perfected in the
Long. All Euro
States, adopt a si
audiences,
Japan has espeq
tary planet, that hd
is suddenly brougl
they shed a dazzlin g
"7
‘
INTERVIEW WITH THE MIKADO. 85
They carefully inquired concerning the machinery employed in the
United States in taking the decennial census, and also the details
of the system of collecting and disbursing public revenues.
They wrote a letter on the spot, addressed to their ambassador at
Peking, and, delivering it to Mr. Seward, solicited his aid of their
interest at that court. Mr. Seward was deeply impressed on two
points: First, that although the administration of justice in Japan
is conducted in a manner widely different from that of the Western
nations, yet that the public mind entertains not the least distrust
of its impartiality. Second, that the administration of the Mikado
is sincerely emulous and progressive. Again, if there is any danger
1 in the near future, it will arise, not from a retarding, but from a
more rapid acceptance by the government of Western ideas and
S sentiments, than a people so rude can at once understand.
] The ministers had assigned the whole day for the high consulta-
d tion. They expressed much regret when Mr. Seward announced
)- fF that he was obliged to depart at the earliest moment for Yokohama,
e where the steamer was waiting. Waiving invitations to examine
0 the citadel and the imperial palace and grounds, Mr. Seward re-
fe turned to the Consulate, and thence proceeded down the bay,
P directly to this steamer, bound for Hiogo.
h A box followed him which contained all the cake, frait, and con-
3 fectionery, which remained from the entertainrient at the Castle.
> The ladies noticed that the varieties of cakes were not merely col-
1¢ cred externally, but through and through—crimson, yellow, purple,
re and indigo. The supply eufficient for the voyage to Shanghai.
rs It ought not to mar the effect of the Mikado’s zourtesy, if we
)- state that the audience, in its minutest details, wee projected and
06 perfected in the Japanese cabinet, with the concurrence of Mr. De
ed Long. All European governments, and even that of the United
O- States, adopt a similar precaution in regard to official executive
re. audiences.
‘mM Japan has especial reasons for prudence. The empire is a soli-
ed tary planet, that has remained stationary for centuries, until now it
is suddenly brought into contact with constellations which, while
they shed a dazzling light, continually threaten destruc ive collisions.
gyre"
. io wee
a
CHAPTER III.
FROM YEDDO TO SHANGHAI.
Hiogo.—The Place of Massacre.—A Japanese Steamer.—The Gulf of Osaka.—A Harem
on a Pic-nic.—The City of Osaka—The Tycoon’s Castle.—Japanese Troops.—
Nagasaki.—Beautiful Scenery.—Christians of Nagasaki.—Japanese Character,—
Departure for China.—Concluding Reflections on Japan.
HMiogo (Kobe), Monday, October 10th.—A. voyage of thirty-six
hours, in which night and rain have prevented all observation, has
brought us to this southeastern port on the island of Niphon. The
United States Consul, Mr. Stewart, and the agent of the Pacific
Maii Line, came on board in the early morning. They were sur-
prised when Mr. Seward pointed out to them with minuteness and
accuracy the several places of interest in the port. This,” he said
“is the European settlement, that place behind it the native town
of Hiogo: the road which divides them is the one on which the
Mikado’s army was moving northward at the time when it fired
upon and massacred the foreigners in 1864: this is the field through
which the foreigners were pursned by the Japanese scldiers on that
occasion: it was in the bay here on our right that the natives
massacred the French naval surveying party in their boats: was
it not in the building which I sce on that hill that the Mikado’s
officers, who were condemned to death for those atrocious outrages,
committed hari-kari, and that the forcign ministers interposed
after seventeen such self-executions, and said, ‘It is enough?’ On
this knoll is the place where the offenders were buried.”
The otticial reports of those painful transactions which Mr. Van
=.
HIOGO.
awe
~
, has
The
Acific
rh
1?
‘
sur-
s and
b said
town
h the
fired
ough
b that
htives
UNITED STATES CONSULATE,
; was
kado’s
rages,
posed
On
. Van
88 JAPAN, CIIINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Valkenburgh, the United States Minister, made to the Department
of State, had left this distinct and ineffaceable impression on Mr,
Seward’s mind. It is five years since those massacres occurred,
We now find that the people, obeying the instinct of nationality,
have erected a monument over the grave of each of those victims,
and on that monument have recorded his voluntary death as an act
of civil and religious martyrdom. So true to country and to God
are the impulses of our common nature everywhere.
Hiogo is twenty miles distant from Osaka, and bears the same
relation to that great southern metropolis of Japan that Yokohama
bears to the central one of Yeddo. Hiogo, opened quite recently
to foreign commerce, is not especially successful. Since the opening
of Japan, the population of Yeddo has been reduced from three
millions to one million, chiefly by removals to Yokohama, On the
contrary, Osaka has not materially declined, nor has Hiogo consid-
erably increased. The foreign population of Hiogo is at most two
hundred. The importance of its harbor is due to its double advan-
tages as a port of Osaka and a gateway to the Inland Sea of Japan.
October 11th.—We dined yesterday with Mr. Senter’s amiable
family, and slept in the Japanese bungalow, now occupied as the
Consulate, by the side of its pretty lotus-garden. Although the
lotus has been held sacred from time immemorial as a divine
symbol throughout the whole East, it is nevertheless indigenous
only in tropical and semi-tropical climates. We now for the first
time see in perfection on its native soil this magnificent flower, of
which, “ whosoever eateth wishes never again to depart, nor to see
his native country, if it groweth not there.”
Here the intelligent Japanese governor passed two hours with
Mr. Seward, explaining the system of provincial administration,
which seems very effective. He learns also that education of all
classes is compulsory, and that the schools are maintained by taxa-
tion, which is remitted in behalf of the poor.
We went, this morning, on board a small coasting steamer,
which was built in the United States for Japanese owners, and is
managed exclusively by natives. The gulf of Osaka has pictu
from gilded roofs,
+ Japan is a maseuli
| native jealousy of tl
resque shores, t]
edge. The sloy
mits are planted
on the highest p
nt
[r.
ed.
ty,
ms,
act
rod
ume
ama
ntly
ning
hree
1 the
neid-
; two
|van-
apan.
hiable
hs thie
the
livine
enous
first
er, of
O see
5 with
ation,
of all
r taxa
amer,
and is
pictu-
TEMPLE OF THE MOON, 89
resque shores, thickly studded with villages, clustering at the water’s
edge. The sloping hills are terraced and irrigated, and their sum-
mits are planted with forests. The Temple of the Moon, standing
on the highest peak of the mountain, reflected the norning sunlight
= SS \\ ‘
pi Ny
/ (hd ae 4
STAIN SES
shia Mittin
SAAN?
“ie
TEMPLE AT OSAKA,
from gilded roofs, resting on snow-white columns, The moon in
Japan isa masculine deity. Is this exceptional idea due to the
native jealousy of the gentle sex¢ Or is it owing to the tact that
90 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
it is a man’s face and not a woman’s that is seen in that benignant
orb? Quien sabe ?
It is the bar at Osaka which forces the ocean-trade to a harbor
so distant as Hiogo. Our countryman, Admiral Bell, lost his life
two years ago, in sounding it. Our steamer could not cross, though
drawing only four fect.
Osaka, as early as the sixteenth century, became a great com-
mercial city. Its temples, surpassing those of Yeddo in number,
vie with those of spiritual Miako. As we approached the bar, we
saw a gay Japanese yacht, of perhaps two hundred and fifty tons,
moving slowly out to sex under a light wind. The sails were
quaint, like the form of the vesscl they impelled, which was brilliant
with scarlet and blue paint and gilding. A daimio sat at the stern
on the upper deck, gorgeously arrayed in silks and lacquer, swr-
rounded by numerous retainers and a bevy of highly-painted and
elegantly-dressed young women, who were entertaining him with
a concert of guitars, flutes, and drums. Manifestly the daimio was
giving his harem a picnic.
We were transferred here to a small, neat, flat-bottomed bamboo
barge, with a canopy overhead and a deck covered with mats, in
which we floated over the bar, and up to the great sea-wall of the
city.
The confluence of two .ivers with the sea makes the harbor of
Osaka, like that of Charleston. . The rivers are formed into canals,
and connected at convenient intervals by cross-canals. Venice is
not more noticeable for its gondolas and barges, nor Amsterdam
for its pleasure-hoats, than Osaka for its picturesque shallops cov-
ered with bright awnings of various colors. It is perhaps from
the amusements of the regatta that the women in Osaka have ae-
quired the fame of being the prettiest in the empire. Time served
us to traverse only three or four of the thirty or forty canals, but
sufficient to enable us to reach the more important monuments and
institutions of the metropolis, to notice the regularity of the streets,
the grace and lightness of the hundred cedar bridges, and to wonder
at the immense traffic carried on by families who dwell in the
vessels they navigate. The wealth and enterprise of Japan being
in the southc
emporium,
While, for
a part of each
litical capital,
commercial Og
palaces, with s1
ceived their re
Between th
dwellings, two
The lower story
the tides and floot
48 elsewhere in
The nudity, so fre
and offensive, ©
that few foreigners
Mee of dwellings
OSAKA. 91
nt in the southern part of the empire, Osaka is the domestic main
emporium.
bor While, for centuries, state policy required the daimios to reside
life a part of each year with their armed retainers at Yeddo, the po-
ugh litical capital, the same daimios made their metropolitan homes in
commercial Osaka. Here, on the banks of the canals, they erected
om- [§ palaces, with storehouses and wharves and offices. Here they re-
ber, ceived their rents in kind, and exchanged them in trade.
we Between these palaces the canals are lined with cheaply -built
ons, dwellings, two stories high, with a veranda around the first story.
were
liant
stern
sur-
»]
| and
with
oO was
mboo
ats, in
f the
por of ian . Pg ceil i
anals, 3 eAThe pe =
mice is
erdam
DS COV-
& from STREET IN OSAKA.
ve ac:
served The lower story is a mercantile convenience, being washed with
ils, but ff the tides and floods. The people seen in the streets here, as well
ts and as elsewhere in Japan, wear wooden shoes and dress coarsely.
streets, The nudity, so frequent at the north, becomes here more common
onder fe and offensive. Crowds followed us with a curiosity which shows
in the that few foreigners visit Osaka. Notwithstanding the mean appear-
L being ance of dwellings and people, the city contrasts favorably with
99 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Yeddo, in show of prosperity and affluence. Some of the temples
are built within the areas of the princely palaces. More commonly,
however, they are independent and spacicus, and, like the palaces,
accessible through canals and basins. They are on the same model
with those at Yeddo, but :nore lavishly ornamented with allegorical
carving, and statuary in granite and bronze. Men are seldom seen
in or about the temples in Japan, but woman, poor, meek and rag-
ged, though forbidden, steals in there, reverently paying her devo-
tion to the gods and pitifully asking alms. How could woman en-
dure existence anywhere on earth without the solaces of religion ?
“From all ancienty to the present time,” as a stump-orator, we
once heard, expressed it, the Japanese have made their irregular
and grotesque coins with the use only of the hammer. The govern-
ment has just now established a mint at Osaka, with machinery of
the latest invention, and equal, it is claimed, to the Philadelphia
Mint. Here they are making new coins similar in form and de-
vice to those of the Western nations, the value being based on sub-
divisions of the Mexican dollar.
Livy has given us what he says was the speech of Romulus
when he had founded Rome: “If all the strength of cities lay in
the height of their ramparts or the depths of their ditches, we should
have great reason to be in fear for that which we have now built.”
The Japanese might be excused if they should reverse this senti-
ment, and speak with great confidence of the security of the empire
derived from ramparts and ditches. As with Yeddo, so with Osaka,
Its boast is its castle, an imperial residence and fortress of mikados
and tycoons. We tried inéffectually to obtain a measurement of
some of the granite blocks of this structure. We think it safe, how-
ever, to say, that one of them is thirty feet long, fifteen feet high
and five feet thick. No one knows where, when or how, such im-
mense stones were riven at the quarry, and brought to the summit
of the lofty hill, which overlooks the city of Osaka. The Tycoon in
the late civil war, however, took possession of the castle with his
forces, only to find it a prison, and insecure at that. He was dis-
lodged by the Mikado’s army, and made his escape on a United
States steamer. Before leaving the citadel, he destroyed its defensive
f pitching of the 8
works, so as t
as a camp of
the castle at
capital to the
show consider:
castle, and allo
honored with ;
European artil
horns. The di
native Japanes
legged, but dre
of the first orga
Japanese are n
evolutions and .
The Japane:
the world, but t
which overtook
family being the
our clothes, and
soup.” When 1
shut out from
Osaka, to be see
of the “fruit of
on the now roug
side-ladder of thi
Nagasaki, O|
so Nagasaki com
That sea is a to
Ocean on the eag
West coast of Ja
the southern is]
this channel ma
separates once ca
through? Was
ern-
y of
phia
de-
sub-
ulus
y in
ould
hilt.”
enti-
pire
saka,
kaos
nt of
how-
high
1 im-
mmit
on in
h his
hs dis-
nited
bnsive
MILITARY HONORS. 93
as a camp of instruction, it is as jealously closed against visitors as
the castle at Yeddo. Instructions having come down from the
capital to the Governor here, as well as to the one at Hiogo, to
show consideration to Mr. Seward, we were conducted through the
castle, and allowed to witness the drill, and at the same time were
honored with a serenade from the trumpeters, which consisted of
European artillery and cavalry calls jumbled together on French
horns. The din and discord may be imagined. The bronze-faced
native Japanese troops, lower than European in stature, and bow-
legged, but dressed in French uniforms, recalled our recollections
of the first organization of negro troops in the late civil war. The
Japanese are not less docile and orderly, and they went through
evolutions and drill, according to French tactics, commendably.
The Japanese umbrellas are the best as they are the cheapest in
the world, but they could give us no protection from the rain-storm
which overtook us in the dilapidated castle. Captain Kinder’s
family being the only European one in Osaka, took us in and dried
our clothes, and gave us all we had time to take, “a hasty plate of
soup.” When we reached our yacht, black night with high winds
shut out from us the beautiful gulf-shores, and so passed away
Osaka, to be seen no more by us, for we have taken care not to eat
of the “fruit of destiny,” the lotus. The heaving of the steamer
on the now roughened sea was uncomfortable, but the tossing and
’ pitching of the small boat which conveyed us from the yacht to the
side-ladder of the New York was dangerous and frightful.
Nagasaki, October 13th.—As Hiogo commands the southeast,
so Nagasaki commands the northwest entrance of the Inland Seu.
That sea is a tortuous passage, flowing between the North Pacific
Ocean on the east and the Yellow Sea or Straits of Corea on the
west coast of Japan, separating the northern island of Niphon from
the southern islands of Toksima and Kiusiu. How and when was
this channel made? Were the three mountain-islands which it
separates once compact land, and did the ocean force its passage
through? Was all Japan once submerged, and were the islands
works, so as to render it unavailable to the conqueror. Now used
94 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
thrown up in their present form? Who can say? Not we. Per-
haps Agassiz might. We must content ourselves with writing that,
ENTRANCE TO NAGASAKI,
like most inland seas, this of Japan is marvellously beautiful.
Four hundred miles long, of varying width, everywhere deep, it
washes the shores of the main islands in some places, while in
others it is broken into twenty narrower channels which break on
the shores of uncounted lesser islands, In this the Inland Sea re-
sembles our own Lake of the Woods, which takes its strange name
from the fact that the island-surface enclosed within its shores
exceeds in area the water-surface of the lake. These islands of the
Inland Sea are said to be three thousand, but we are inclined to
think that islands in groups like these are never accurately counted.
Everybody speaks of the Thousand Islands in the St. Lawrence,
without remembering that they are reckoned at eighteen hundred.
The chan:
tions, so that
clouds, produ
making our Q
pice four thor
hill-sides, cov
forests in whi
It seems as if
on these rom
fishing-villages
shipping.
Night set i
beginning to
Shall we ever
ous storics unt
HARBOR OF NAGASAKI. 95
The channel twists around and among the islands in all direc-
tions, so that the headlands which we pass seem as fleeting as the
clouds, producing ever-varying scenery. During one hour, we are
making our gloomy way under the deep shadow of a naked preci-
pice four thousand feet high. In the next, we are passing terraced
hill-sides, covered with sunlit orchards, flowery plains and fields, and
forests in which the bamboo, the tulip and the cypress commingle.
It seems as if the busy population of the whole empire has clustered
on these romantic shores. Manufacturing towns alternate with
NAGASAKI HARBOR.
fishing-villages, and every nook is filled with quaint and miniature
shipping.
Night set in, and the bell summoned us to dinner as we were
beginning to round a jutting promontory of the western shore.
Shall we ever forgive Mr. Randall for beguiling us with his humor-
ous storics until we were brought suddenly to our feet, by the
96 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
dropping of the anchor, and the firing of a gun, which announced
to us that we had arrived in port ¢ |
A moonlight view of Nagasaki; fitting sequel of a two-days
voyage through the Inland Sea. We forgive Mr. Randall ; the
first view of Nagasaki ought to be by moonlight. The bay is small;
we almost know, without being told, every object around us. These
vessels on the larboard are Japanese ships-ofwar. This steamer
directly before us is a German man-ofwar' this ship on oun: star-
board quarter, with its black funnels and its stubbed masts, is the
British admiral’s flag-ship ; and this long, narrow steamer is a Rus-
sian corvette. Beyond the area thus occupied by armed vessels
are two American merchant-ships and forty awkward but sea-
worthy Chinese junks. On encircling hills, which rise two thou-
TEMPLE OF BUDDHA AT NAGASAKI,
sand feet out
Those dark s]
corsulates an
ravine which
the ancient n:
trade; this isl
the famous Dy
the boast and
vaced hill-side:
high, conical ro
Papenburg, me
Jesuit teachers
What does
Instant with t
livers its natio
swelling forth
“God save the
MOONLIGHT VIEW. 97
sand feet out of the sea, are the temples and groves of Buddha.
Those dark shades below then are hanging gardens in which the
corsulates and the merchants’ residences are embowered. ‘This
ravine which stretches from the shore upward on the hill-side is
the ancient native town; this quay on our right is the seat of active
trade; this island just before us, hardly broader than a flat-boat, is
the famous Decima, for two hundred years the mart and the prison,
the beast and the shame of the Dutch traders in Japan; those ter-
raced hill-sides opposite the town are the city of the dead; and this
NEI AFILIVER,
VIEW OF DECIMA.
high, conical rock, which seems to close the passage to the sea, is
Papenburg, memorable as the scene of the martyrdom of the early
Jesuit teachers and converts in Japan.
What does this scene want to perfect its magic? Only music!
Instant with the thought, the band on the German frigate de-
livers its national hymn, “ Des Deutsche Vaterland ;” then come
swelling forth from the British flag-ship the inspiring notes of
“God save the Queen ;” and these only die away, when the solemn
98 JAPAN, OHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
national anthem of Russia, ‘‘ Thou pious and gentle leader, shield
of the church of believers, God be the protector and defender of
our great Czar,” grander than all, rolls over the sea.
Is not this glorious concert, mnder the flags of these great Chris-
tian nations, in these distant and lonely waters, suggestive? Mr.
Seward answered, “ Yes, but deceptive.’ The German is here
lying in wait for his French enemy ; the British admiral is here to
intimidate the scmi-barbarous races; and the Russian admiral is
guarding the eastern gate of his master’s empire, which towers be-
hind and above Asiatic and European states on both continents.
So it is that jealousy and ambition breathe in the notes of this ma-
jestic serenade.
October 14th.—It is because we cannot swim that we fear the
deep. It is because we delight in climbing that we admire the high.
While the flat is dull, the circle is our chosen form for the beautiful.
Thus the amphitheatre, with its circular and lofty walls, was adopted
for the Pantheon as well as for the Coliseum; though it has since
been sometimes discarded from the temple, it remains nevertheless
universally associated with the stage and the hippodrome. If we
must live in a town, give us one which, like Nagasaki, is an amphi-
theatre, whose base is the sea, and whose towering walls are green
and terraced mountains. It was under an inspiration like this that
Peter on the mount said: “ Master, it is good for us to be here.
Let us make three tabernacles, one for thee, one for Moses, an one
for Elias.’* The preaching of Christianity here by St. Francis
Xavier, in 1549, was followed by such success that, within fifty
years afterward, Nagasaki was surrendered by its native prince to
the Portuguese, and became at once the see of an episcopate, and
an emporium of Portuguese trade. But Xavier little apprehended
that the Order of Jesus, which he was introducing, would become
so arrogant and ambitious as to contest with the native sovereign
absolute dominion within the empire. The Portuguese Chris-
tians thus becoming obnoxious to the government, all foreigners
were within the first hundred years excluded from Japan, under
pain of death, while persecutions more cruel than those of Nero
ree Ss ae
were visited o
merchants fro
government i
mitted, under
at Nagasaki.
arrival of the
at that time, tl
by the nassac:
ever, in 1867,
living in the ;
natives were ¢c
adherence to tl
behalf. The g
twenty-seven h
and distributin,
empire. This.
the intention o!
versal toleratio.
It would be
Mrs. Mangum,
Yellow Sea
ing, we carefull
close the mag
marvellous roc
or from where,
abutments. O
the Goto Grou
It is hardly
of only twenty
unvisited 5 neve
which no trav
we must onwa
are, while they
Although so
try, into high ¢
PARTING VIEW OF JAPAN. 99
were visited on the teachers and converts alike. A few Protestant
merchants from Amsterdam, renouncing their religion, joined the
government in the persc.ution of the Christians, and were per-
mitted, under humiliating surveillance, to replace the Portuguese
at Nagasaki. This truly pitiable colony was found here on the
arrival of the United States squadron in 1853. It was understood,
at that time, that the Christian faith had been effectually extirpated
by the nassacres at Papenburg. The world was astonished, how-
ever, in 1867, by a discovery that the Christian religion was still
living in the province of Nagasaki, and that a large number of
natives were condemned to death or servitude for their clandestine
adherence to that faith. The Western nations interposed in their
behalf. The government contented itself with forcibly deporting
twenty-seven hundred of the offending Christians from their homes,
and distributing them through the more distant provinces of the
empire. This new persecution being thus arrested, it is manifestly
the intention of the government now to adopt the principle of uni-
versal toleration.
It would be pleasant to dwell on the hospitalities of Mr. and
Mrs. Mangum, and on the courtesies of the foreign fleets.
Yellow Sea, October 15th.—Leaving Nagasaki yesterday morn-
ing, we carefully examined Coal Island and the other islands which
close the magnificent harbor. Nor did we omit to notice that
marvellous rock, which, having been dropped nobody knows how
or from where, is lodged like a wedge between two naked natural
abutments. Our parting view of Japan was a sunset glimpse of
the Goto Group, the western outpost of the Island Empire.
It is hardly more satisfactory to quit Japan after a residence
of only twenty days, than it would have been to leave it altogether
unvisited ; nevertheless, there is Peking before us, “a bourn from
which no traveller” can “return” later than November, and so
we must onward. Let us set down our memories, such as they
are, while they are fresh.
Although society in Japan is divided, as it is in every other coun-
try, into high classes and low classes, classes wearing two swords,
¢ BYE Pog
‘
’
4
j
1
1
100 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
classes wearing one sword, and classes wearing no swords at all, yet
the people are universally docile and amiable. We saw not one act
of rudeness, and heard not one word of ill-temper, in the country.
Heaven knows that, in the arrogant assum ti —y foreigners of
superiority among them, the people have pr... ..ions enough for
both! One of the Japanese ambassadors to the United States in
1867 was robbed at Baltimore of a richly-mounted sword. Neither
he nor his government made any complaint. Mr. Seward for-
tunately recovered and restored it, with a national apology. Foreign
residents in Japanese cities are often timid, jealous, and suspicious.
Some are prone to exaggcrate inconveniences into offences. Others
are dogmatic and contemptuous. Even one of the most generous
of American citizens, when driving Mr. Seward through the streets
of Yeddo, could not forbear from cracking his whip over the bare
heads of the native crowd. Mr. Seward endured this flourish
silently, but he vehemently and earnestly implored his impetuous
friend to spare a litter of sleeping puppies which lay in the way.
Women and children shricked as they caught up the mangled
brutes behind the carriage-wheels, but the relentless charioteer
only said: “It will never do to stop for such things; let them lcarn
to keep their streets clear.” Intimidation and menace naturally
provoke anger and resentment. European and Amcrican ficets are
always hovering over the coasts of Japan. Though the eye of the
Japanese is long and curved, it sees as clearly as the foreign eye,
which is round and straight. Human nature is the same in all
races. Who could wonder if the Asiatics fail to love, where they
are taught only to fear ?
It would be manifestly unfair to judge the Japanese by the
standard of Western civilization. Measured by the Oriental one, it
cannot be denied that it excels the Asiatic states to whose system it
belongs. The affections of family and kindred seem as strong here
as elsewhere. There is no neglect of children; there is no want of
connubial care; no lack of parental love or filial devotion. Nor is it
to be forgotten that, in regard to domestic morals, we are giving
the Japanese some strange instructions. On this very ship on
which we have embarked, there is a German merchant who, after a
short but succes
native land; wii
old. The father
is the Japanese
not be fit to bri
country.”
No one deni
the politeness y
cused of practis
they more viciou
tian nations? D
a melancholy ca
which record Na
unworthy of our
war. Are they
great Revolution |
The painstakir
the mountain-ver;
anism ; and the pa
clsewhere perform
are industrious,
been isolated from
were found amo
bazaar is seen in
drawing-room, mui
furnished without
They have no ]
laws are legibly ins
place. Although ¢
little or nothing fr
‘reading and writ
Philadelphia, or
or variety of maps
Yeddo, Osaka, or ]
Japan is popu
Some of our missio
8
short but successful career in Yokohama, is returning rich to his
native land; with him his child, a pretty brunette boy, two years
old. The father brings him to us to be caressed. We ask, “ Where
is the Japanese mother?” “I have left her behind; she would
not be fit to bring up the boy, or to be seen herself in a European
country.”
No one denies that the Japanese have both the courage and
the politeness which belong to an heroic people. They are ac-
cused of practising fraud, cunning, and cruelty in war. Are
they more vicious in this respect than other pagan or even Chria-
tian nations? Do not the records of war on our own soil contain
a melancholy catalogue of similar crimes? Are not the pages
which record Napoleon’s great campaigns sullied by deeds alike
unworthy of our race? The Japanese are sanguinary in civil
war. Are they more so than the French were in their first
great Revolution ?
The painstaking culture which extends from the water’s cdge to
the mountain-verge; the tedious manipulation practised in mech-
anism ; and the patient drudgery of the coolies in the cities, in labor
clsewhere performed by domestic animals, show that the Japanese
are industrious. Though the empire has, from its earliest period,
been isolated from the civilized world, yet the silks of that country
were found among the richest freights of Venice. A Japanese
bazaar is seen in every modern European city; and there is no
drawing-room, museum, or palace in the world, which is completely
furnished without Japanese fabrics.
They have no legislature, yet they have uniform laws, and these
laws are legibly inscribed on tablets at every cross-road and market-
place. Although science and literature in the West have borrowed
little or nothing from these islands, the Japanese are nevertheless
areading and writing people. We hardly know whether Boston,
Philadelphia, or New York shop-windows display greater number
or variety of maps, books, charts an! pictures, than the stalls of
Yeddo, Osaka, or Miako.
Japan is populous, whether we allow it twenty millions, as
some of our missionaries do, or fifty millions, as the prime-minister
8
JAPANESE CIVILIZATION. 101
102 JAPAN, OHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
claimed in his conversation with Mr. Seward. Nevertheless, men-
dicity, though unrestrained by law, is less offensive than in Naples,
or even in New York.
It would be a curious study to inquire how and when the se-
vere feudal model of the middle ages of Europe obtained a place
in Japan, or how it has continued so long among a people so mer-
curial, and yet so thoughtful. While in theory the Mikado is sov-
ereign proprietor, the whole domain practically belongs to the
daimios, who are rich. The revenues of many of them are not less
than the public revenues of some of the States of our I’ede-al Union.
Though the peasantry are poor, we nowhere heard a complaint
against rents or taxes, or the price of labor. Moreover, the Janan-
ese, while they encourage immigration, never emigrate. We infer
from these facts that, if not a‘ happy people, they are at least a
contented one.
They were a religious people when they accepted the Mikado,
and gave him their reverence. They must have been a religious
people, when they accepted from the Mikado the teachings of the
Sintu sect; they must hav been a religious people, when the doc-
trines of Buddha supplanted so generally the dreamy mysticisms of
the earlier faith. Xavier found them a religious people, willing
to accept the teachings of Christianity. But the religious age in
Japan has passed.. Confucian philosophy has undermined all myth-
ological creeds, and left the Japanese a nation of doubters. Gov-
ernment now makes no provision for the support of religious orders.
Their revenues, derived from ancient foundations, are diminishing.
The priesthood is as inoffensive as it is poor. It may be expected
‘that under this toleration the Christian faith will now, for the first
time, come into public consideration in Japan in the way it ought
‘to come, that is to say, in connection with the science, literature,
and art, and the political, moral, and social institutions of the
‘Western nations.
The Japanese are less an imitative people than an inquiring one.
‘They are not, however, excitable concerning the events of the day,
but rather diligent in studying what is useful. All their dramatic
-representations are didactic; and, though they have a fondness for
legerdemain, th
makes them thi
The most ur
ness of the pop
mon people nei
the public bathi
throughout the
Without the rig
basement of wo
We are obliged 1
nent place in the
we have had of 1
that among them
Japanese hist
the science, litera
but from ancient
China in civilizat
of the Grecian.
distinct and inde
own civilization,
from any quarter.
joyed a fortune
had developed a
they came into d
nation went dowr
disappeared. Th
were maturing ¢
reached by the W¢
they more clearly
great promptnegs ;
European intervel
remained so nearl
during that time,
has at last come
electric telegraph,
shores of Japan.
day,
matic
sg for
JAPANESE SOCIETY.
103
legerdemain, they enjoy it not because it is amusing, but because it
makes them think from power to product, from cause to effect.
The most unpropitious feature of Japanese society is the gross-
ness of the popular sense in regard to woman. Among the com-
mon people neither sex maintains decency in dress, and they use
the pudlic bathing-houses promiscuously. In Japan, as elsewhere
throughout the East, there indeed is marriage, but it is marriage
without the rights and responsibilities of that relation. This de-
basement of woman has tainted and corrupted the whole state.
We are obliged to conclude that domestic virtue has not a promi-
nent place in the morals of Japan, although some glimpses which
we have had of life in the upper classes have inclined us to believe
that among them vice is not altogether free from restraint.
Japanese history derives many of the institutions and much of
the science, literature and morals of the country, not from China,
but from ancient Corea, which seems to have taken precedence of
China in civilization, as the Pelasgian civilization took precedence
of the Grecian. The Japanese may, however, be considered as a
distinct and independent Mongolian race, which has matured its
own civilization, without having been deeply affected by intrusion
from any quarter. In this respect the Japanese seem to have en-
joyed a fortune like that of the Aztecs of Mexico. That people
had developed a unique civilization, and were maturing it, when
they came into conflict with European nations. The Mexican
nation went down under the violence of the shock, and altogether
disappeared. The Japanese had in like manner effected and
were maturing a civilization of their own when they were
reached by the Western nations. More advanced than the Aztecs,
they more clearly apprehended the danger of the contact, and with
great promptness and decision they effectually resisted and defeated
European intervention. Having thus isolated themselves, they
remained so nearly three hundred years. If they did not advance
during that time, they did not fall back. That isolation, however,
has at last come to an end; steam, the printing-press, and the
electric telegraph, have brought the Western nations on all the
shores of Japan. It is manifest that the two distinct and widely-
grrr
104 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
different civilizations cannot continue in such near contact. The
great problem now is, whether the European civilization can be
extended over Japan, without the destruction, not merely of the
political institutions of the country, but of the Japanese nation
itself. The Japanese are practically defenceless against the West-
ern States. If they are to be brought completely into the society
of those nations, it must cither be by the application of force, or by
that of persuasion and encouragement. The interests of both re-
quire that the latter mode should be adopted, but it yet remains
to be seen whether Western civilization has reached such a moral
plane as to secure its voluntary and peaceful adoption.
There is much of discouragement in the prospect. Few station-
ary or declining nations have been regenerated by the intervention
of states more highly civilized. Most such have perished under the
shock. On the other hand, there are some reasons for hope. Man-
kind seem at last to have risen equally above the theory that uni-
versal conquest is beneficent, and above the theory that it is pos-
sible. Commerce has largely taken the place of war, and it is now
universally felt that interest and humanity go hand in hand. It is
the distinction of the United States, and we may hope fortunate for
Japan, that they have come to the front of the Western states as
tutors of the decaying Asiatic nations.
If the tutorship of the United States in Japan is to be made
successful, it must be based on deeper and broader principles of
philanthropy than have heretofore been practised in the intercourse
of nations—a philanthropy which shall recognize not merely the
distinction of strength and power between nations, but the duties
of magnanimity, moderation and humanity—a philanthropy which
shall not be content with sending armies or navies to compel, but
which shall send teachers to instruct, and establish schools on the
American system, in which philosophy, politics and morals, as well
as religious faith, are taught, with just regard to their influences in
social and domestic life,
Woosung.—U. S. Shi
Procession.—Chi.
cign Prejudices a;
from France.—Cl
Woosung, Oc
and morals, WI]
the natural way,
of the nature of
studying its surf
A great ocea
Just at sunrise tl
larboard bow, fir
rolling their greal
forked tails wavi
shoal waters of tl
give the Yellow §
We have cro
arrived at Woost
below that city.
landmark. Only
June; here the
out its mellownes
Nagasaki. Are
tinental shores ?
The
n be
’ the
ition
Vest-
ciety
or by
h re-
nains
noral
tion-
ntion
r the
Man-
t uni-
8 pos-
; NOW
It is
te for
tes as
made
les of
rourse
the
uties
vhich
1, but
n the
is well
ces in
CHAPTER IV.
THE COAST OF CHINA.
Woosung.—U. S. Ship Colorado.—Shanghai.—European “ Concessions.”.—A Mandarin
Procession.—Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen.—European and Chinese Civilization.—For-
cign Prejudices against the Chinese.—The Shan Tung.—The Yellow Sea.—The News
from France.—Chee-Foo, the Newport of China,x—A Rough Voyage.
Woosung, October 17th.— A respite from politics, philanthropy
and morals. Why should we not allow ourselves to see things in
the natural way, not to say that there is little more to be learned
of the nature of the millstone, by looking into it, than there is by
studying its surface ?
A great ocean-sight was reserved for us on the Yellow Sea.
Just at sunrise this morning, unnumbered whales appeared off the
larboard bow, first throwing up glittering fountains of spray, then
rolling their great, glossy, black backs upward, then with their huge
forked tails waving adieu as they plunged under the waves. The
shoal waters of the Chinese coast have the hue of the Missouri, and
give the Yellow Sea its name.
We have crossed the great estuary of the Yeng-tse-kiang, and
arrived at Woosung, the outer haven of Shanghai, fourteen miles
below that city. The country is on all sides a low plain, without
landmark. Only three days ago, we left Japan, green as if it were
June; here the fields are dry and brown. We have October with-
out its mellowness, and yet Shanghai is only one degree south of
Nagasaki. Are islands always warmer and more genial than con-
tinental shores? Did Sancho Panza understand this when he
Wh
[ ' iG
in| {| Hi i \ | Mi i| Wl \)|
Ml
HA Mt
stipulated for
land?
Many Am
anchor around
native junks a
more high and
in all carrying
heads figured <
decks. How
flag-ship Color:
veying the nav
have no need t
are all there.
Admiral John
else could have
cheer Mr. Sew:
inspiring strain
Shanghai, ¢
other America
age, and broug
Let no one,
in China. Sha
like an outpost
our native shor
all the other |
bridge, these
steamers, these
that we have s¢
they call here
side of the At
“ Concession.”
We have e1
an excursion of
constraint whid
due more to fea
THE “CONCESSION” AT SHANGHAI. 107
stipulated for an island instead of a government on the main-
land ?
Many American and European merchant-ships are riding at
anchor around us, while the river near its banks is crowded with
native junks and fishing-smacks, not to speak of a fleet of thirty or
more high and awkward, lazy-looking, small Chinese sloops-of-war,
in all carrying two hundred guns. They display at their mast-
heads figured and ornamental yellow bunting enough to cover their
decks. How pleasant it.is to us to recognize the United States
flag-ship Colorado, sitting gracefully in the midst, as if calmly sur-
veying the naval array! We have counted her guns, though we
have no need to count her stars and stripes—we know that they
are all there. Our glasses have failed to discover our old friend
Admiral John Rodgers, but we know that he must be there. Who
else could have ordered that double line of seamen in dark blue to
cheer Mr. Seward as we are passing, and that band to strike up the
inspiring strains of “ Hail Columbia ?”
Shanghai, October 18th.—Consul-General Seward and a dozen
other Americans, with kind consideration, took us from our anchor-
age, and brought us by steam-yacht to the “ Bund.”
Let no one, however, infer from this date that we have arrived
in China. Shanghai, as we bave thus far seen it, seems to us less
like an outpost of the Central Flowery Kingdom, than a town on
our native shores. This hospitable mansion of Russell & Company,
all the other houses, this quay, this street, all the streets, this
bridge, these churches, these banking-houses, warehouses, and
steamers, these carriages and horses, these men and women, all
that we have seen on the river or on shore, are European; for so
they call here whatever is foreign, whether it has come from one
side of the Atlantic or from the other. This is, in short, the
“ Concession.”
We have enjoyed our first drive in the country, that is to say,
an excursion of six miles through the “Concession.” Is the air of
constraint which the natives here wear in presence of foreigners
due more to fear than to hate? These contracted concessions, made
108 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
i e . e (14 ° m e 399
by the government to forcigners, remind one of “the liberties,” so
called, which were drawn round jails in Europe and the United
States before the abolition of imprisonment for debt. “ You are safe
; . ” Tai =
within them; we guarantee nothing outside of them.” Neithe:
The foreigner
party looks with pleasure on “the Concession.”
wants it enlarged; the native dislikes it altogether.
While writing these not very profound reflections, we were
summoned to the great gate of “the Compound,” to sce for the
first time a mandarin procession.
MANDARIN PROCESSION,
It is the custom of a mandarin, when he moves abroad on social
or official visits, to be attended by as many retainers as he has, or
can hire. He proceeds, dressed in silken robes, in a sedan-chair,
with a square,
head. Fantasti
faded finery, ec:
gilded maces an:
sible, but fiery
cians leads the
ously, all beatiz
and deafening ¢
double dignity a:
Falstati
ry ) eT
the king’s press,
of one.
darins approache
We did
they bowed low
To our surprise, ’
Tajen, survivors
nese embassy wl
took final leave o
“Wot I look
and wonderful |
they parted with
eastern voyage al
selves.
hai on the very d
navigation !
The pageant }
ber. ILow absurx
made the ambas:
abroad! “ Yes,”
dence of the decay
tain their pride lo
Somehow it h
of the dead attrac
The peculiarity of
locks, everywhere
So far as we hav
inelegant.
CHI-TAJEN AND SUN-TAJEN.
109
with a square, glaring, scarlet canopy, borne by coolies, over his
head. Fantastic groups go before and behind the chair, dressed in
faded finery, carrying umbrellas of all forms and colors, huge
gilded maces and staves, banners, flags, and pennons, incomprehen-
sible, but fiery red and ragged. <A straggling company of musi-
cians leads the procession, while others mingle with it promiscu-
ously, all beating and banging on noisy gongs, clattering sticks,
and deafening drums. The procession in the present case was of
double dignity and importance: it conveyed two mandarins instead
of one. Falstaff’s “ tattered prodigals,” although he had “ misused
the king’s press,” were less grotesque. We thought that as the man-
darins approached they appeared unbecomingly eager to show them-
selves. We did them injustice. Leaning from their chair-windows
they bowed low and gesticulated reverentially as they passed us.
To our surprise, we recognized in their persons Chi-Tajen and Sun-
Tajen, survivors of the late lamented Burlingame in the great Chi-
nese embassy which visited the United States in 1868, and which
took final leave of Mr. Seward at his residence in Auburn.
“Wot I look at,” said Samuel Weller, “is the hextraordinary
and wonderful coincidence.” Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen, since
they parted with us, have spent two years in accomplishing their
eastern voyage around the world, and they have reached Shang-
hai on the very day we have arrived here in our western circum-
navigation !
The pageant passed quickly by, and we returned to our cham-
ber. ILlow absurd this exhibition had seemed; how differently it
made the ambassadors appear here, from the show they made
abroad! “Yes,” said Myr. Seward, “it is even so; it is an evi-
dence of the decay of the empire. States, like individual men, re-
tain their pride long after they have lost the means to support it.”
Somehow it happens that, wherever we go, the resting-places
of the dead attract our attention before the homes of the living.
The peculiarity of burial here is, that the tombs rise in great hil-
locks, everywhere in the cultivated fields, and even in the gardens.
So far as we have observed, the monuments are few, cheap, and
inelegant.
110 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Shanghai, October 19th.— Shanghai is immensely agitated con-
cerning the recent massacre at Tien-Tsin. We find European vol-
unteers, a hundred strong, drilling for defence against an appre-
hended Chinese invasion of “the Concession.” Mrs. Seward, the
consul general’s wife, has just presented those volunteers with a
standard of colors. Everybody is astonished at Mr. Seward’s rash-
ness in going to Peking at the very moment they understand that
all the foreign legations there are coming to this port for protec-
tion, under the guns ot their respective nations. Admiral Rodgers,
with his staff, called upon Mr. Seward to-day. Although it is im-
possible for the Colorado to ascend the Pei-ho to Tung-Chow, he
considers it his duty to visit the capital personally. He has ar-
ranged to accompany Mr. Seward there next week.
Mrs. Warden, our hostess, last night had the entire foreign
society of Shanghai ata ball, which, althongh given in honor of
Mrs. Seward, the bride, had been postponed until our arrival.
Gentlemen largely predominate in European Shanghai. The
recent arrival of so many American ladies was deemed a social
event. Our lady-friends at home will be interested in knowing
that all China furnishes not one mantua-maker or milliner. The
dresses for the ladies come on orders from Paris, London, or New
York. Native women have no need of European costumes. The
work here of the seamstress and tailor is done exclusively by men.
They come to your house and execute your commands quickly,
patiently, and cheaply, and in doing so they faithfully copy every
pattern you give them, and omit nothing. We are inclined to
think that the story of the American merchant who ordered a
dozen pairs of yellow nankeen pantaloons, and, sending as a pat-
tern a pair which had been torn and patched, received twelve pairs
similarly patched in execution of his order, is not altogether an
invention.
The contrast between European and Chinese civilization was
presented sharply to us this morning in our passage from open
furopean Shanghai, with its population of three thousand, to the
native town of Shanghai, with its one hundred thousand inhabit-
ants, shut up within a circular wall twenty-five feet high, and two
iS -<
es
=
a.
‘\ 2 Mi
4
The
yeial
ring
The
yew
The
nen.
‘ly,
very
d to
ed a
CUSTOM-HOUSE,
pat-
y's
roan
was
open
» the
iabit-
! two
112 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
and one-third miles in circumference. We do not think that any
youth of our own day, however vigorous his arm, however strong
the sling or heavy the pebble he might use, could reduce that wall,
which was built doubtless in the time of Kublai Khan, but we
would not answer for its standing against such an arm or weapon
as that which brought down the giant of the Philistines. The town
was easily captured by the English in 1848. When we had passed
within the gates, and saw the narrow streets, and the crowded
structures, built of the most combustible materials, we wondered
what can be the Chinese idea in keeping up the wall, which, in case
of conflagration, must reuder escape impossible. Native Shanghai,
like the foreign settlement, is built on an alluvial soil, and is insa-
lubrious, though reclaimed many centuries ago. This city is the
seat of an immense inland trade, in which the tropical products of
Southern China, with the hardier ones of Central China, are ex-
changed over the Yang-tse-kiang and the Imperial Canal for the tim-
ber, cattle, cereals, wool, and other products of Northern China, Mon-
golia, Mantchooria, and Russia. The annual exports of the town
exceed in value the whole mineral production of the United States.
It need not be said, therefore, that its merchants are shrewd, in-
dustrious and prosperous. It is marvellous how they have crowded
so small an area with warehouses, manufactories, shops, gardens,
theatres, dwellings, and temples. All these are built on a scale so
small and mean, that, though each structure proves adequate to its
purpose, it is only a miniature model or a toy. Nevertheless, the
people of the town manifested much pride in showing us their con-
tracted dwellings built or exquisitely ornamented with cedar and
other fragrant woods, their miniature lakes filled with dwarf moun-
tains which sometimes rise to the enormous height of thirty feet,
and which the Chinese imagination magnifies into a range of Him-
alayas. We found there, besides tea-houses vastly finer than any
in Japan, numerous guildhalls elaborately ornamented, in which
boards and other associations of merchants and manufacturers daily
congregate to discuss matters of trade, and such politics as they
have. With all this, there is not one street accessible by car- '
riage of any kind. The visitor is even obliged to Icave his sedan-
chair at the ga
six or eight fe
are so offensiy
cession” warn;
Contrary ‘
not the least en
ners. All his 1
dence, if not a
of the Chinama
avoids here by
tinually present
is probable that
morals and ma
out that result ]
But we esch
into it again.
Shanghai, ¢
Chinese process
visited Mr. Sey
diplomatic labo
Mr. Burlingame
aid they had req
and gratefully o
United States.
his intention of
insisted that he g
Chinese inn, in
worthy or fit to
“No, no, we wil
Even when we
come to China, 1
a visit. Now, si
abroad with wha
It is a disappy
China and Chine
ny
ng
lI,
we
on
wn
sed
led
red
‘ASC
hai,
nsa-
the
5 of
@x-
tim-
Jon-
own
, in-
rded
ens,
e 80
> its
, the
con-
and
oun-
feet,
Lim-
any
yhich
laily
they
r car
dan-
A DISAPPOINTMENT. 113
chair at the gate, and make his way through crowded lanes at most
six or eight feet wide. Surface drainage is used, and the streets
are so offensive and disgusting that every European in the “ con-
cession” warns the stranger against going there.
Contrary to what we saw in Japan, the native Chinaman shows
not the least emulation or imitation of Western customs and man-
ners. All his ways manifest a spirit of self-assertion and indepen-
dence, if not a contemptuous one. We now comprehend the puzzle
of the Chinaman in San Francisco. The scenes which the European
avoids here by taking refuge within the “concession” are con-
tinually present with him wherever he moves in San Francisco. It
is probable that the contact will work an improvement in Chinese
morals and manners there, sooner than the separation will bring
out that result here.
But we eschewed philosophy for to-day, and here we have fallen
into it again.
Shanghai, October 20th.—A renewal to-day of yesterday’s
Chinese procession, but with a sequel. Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen
visited Mr. Seward, and announced to him the success of their
diplomatic labors in Europe, condoled with him on the death of
Mr. Burlingame, thanked Mr. Seward over and over again for the
aid they had received from him in their mission, and dwelt long
and gratefully on the hospitalities which they had enjoyed in the
United States. Mr. Seward inquired their lodgings, and expressed
his intention of returning their visit. They thanked him, but
insisted that he should not doso. They said, “ We are living in a
Chinese inn, in the old city. Neither the tavern nor the city is
worthy or fit to receive you.” When he persisted, they replied :
“No, no, we will come to you here, but we are unable to entertain.
Even when we were with you at Auburn, and you promised to
come to China, we thought how unworthy we were to receive such
a visit. Now, since we have compared so much that we have seen
abroad with what we are at home, we know this better.”
It is a disappointment to us. What we want to do is to study
China and Chinese ways. This study is the last one that can be
rere
j
i
j
1
{
114 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
made among the foreign population of Shanghai. In that circle,
Chinese affairs are generally ignored. With the exception of an
occasional philanthropic observer, they talk in that society chiefly
of French defeats and German victories, of London fashions, Oxford
boat-races, and American inferiority to Europeans in diplomatic
and consular etiquette. If they talk at all of China, it is against the
Burlingame Treaty, with asseverations that it is an utter absurdity
to expect any good thing to come out of China, except through
blockade and bombardment. Possibly, this is an exaggeration
resulting from the massacre at Tien-Tsin, and represents the tran-
sient rather than the settled opinion of the foreign population.
Happily this distrust of the Chinese does not affect or disturb
trade. A large part of the coasting-trade of China is in foreign
hands, and is conducted chiefly by the Shanghai Steam-Navigation
Company. That company has built wharves one thousand feet
long, which are covered with warehouses, here called “ go-downs.”
From these wharves the company dispatches eighteen coastwise
steamers, an average of one per day. These are chiefly American-
built, and they enter all the treaty ports of the empire. ow
miserable the prejudices to which we have adverted seem to us, in
view of the fai that this immense development of foreign naviga-
tion and commerce is not only permitted by the Chinese Govern-
ment, but is encouraged by it! It seems the more unreasonable
when we reflect that now, after more than twenty years of
international intercourse, the United States have not one griev-
ance against the Chinese Government unredressed, or one demand
unsatisfied.
It is pleasing to meet, here, “ John Brown’s soul marching on.”
At Mrs. Warden’s ball, a colored man named Butler was received
on a footing with the other guests. This Mr. Butler, who is
equally modest and intelligent, is a native of Washington, and was
born a slave of Commodore Rodgers, the father of the present
admiral. THe is here superintendent of the “go-downs,” and
charged with the entire freighting business of the Shanghai Steam-
Navigation Company, receiving for his services a salary of four
thousand dollars,
Steamship &
circumstanced ;
which, though
We have left M
last night, Mr, |
drove us to the
superintendent
illumination of
this magnificen
steamer which 1
dred and fifty fe
state-rooms and
on our rivers an
sleap last night -
before allowed u
At six this n
down the river
Colorado brougl
fifteen guns. U.
boarel the Shan
of twenty-seven ]
this gallant acces
Yang-tse-kiang, |
on the Yellow S
of the north.
Taking up th
overthrow of the
of a provisional g
Everybody ag
Orleans dynasty,
He answers, “ I
because the coun
‘le,
an
fly
ord
itic
the
lity
igh
ion
‘an-
urb
ion
tion
feet
wise
can-
Tow
1th
iga-
ern-
able
of
riev-
and
was
bsent
and
pane
four
ON BOARD THE SHAN TUNG, 115
Steamship Shan Tung, October 22d.—* Situated as we are and
cireumstanced as we are,” it seems to us that we are out on a picnic,
which, though it threatens to be long, promises much of interest.
We have left Mr. and Mrs. Randall at Shanghai. At cleven o’clock
last night, Mr. Warden, whom we have found as wise as he is kind,
drove us to the “ Bund,” where we were received by the aforesaid
superintendent Butler, who had set ship and shore ablaze with an
illumination of Chinese lanterns in honor of Mr. Seward. With
this magnificent display, we were brought on board this pretty
steamer which remains still attached to the wharf. It is one hun-
dred and fifty feet long and twenty-four feet across the beam; its
state-rooms and cabins are more spacious than those usually found
on our rivers and lakes at home, and we enjoyed in them a sounder
sleop last night than the excitement and hilarity at Shanghai had
before allowed us.
At six this morning—
“The ship was cheered,
The harbor cleared,
Merrily did we drop—”
down the river to Woosung, where a friendly summons from the
Colorado brought us to, and Mr. Seward received her salute of
fifteen guns. Under this friendly fire, Admiral Rodgers came on
boarel the Shan Tung with an attendance of seven officers, a guard
of twenty-seven marines, and the brass band of his flag-ship. With
this gallant accession, we have crossed the bar at the mouth of the
Yang-tse-kiang, here thirty miles wide, and are once more afloat
on the Yellow Sea, bound for the now much-dreaded colder regions
of the north.
Taking up the Shanghai newspaper, we read the news of the
overthrow of the Second Empire of France, and the establishment
of a provisional government at Paris.
Everybody asks Mr. Seward, “ Will France now restore the
Orleans dynasty, or will it be the elder branch of the Bourhons?”
He answers, “I think France will henceforth be 9» republic, not
because the country is prepared for it, but because ii hag at last
yeren
116 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
both sufficiently tried and exploded monarchy and imperialism.”
“ This,” said one of our friends, “is a bold prophecy to make under
the shadow of an empire which is five thousand years old, while the
MOUTH OF THE YANG-TSE-KIANG.
republic is only an experiment of one hundred years in America
and in Switzerland.” He replied: “ The first Napoleon predicted
that, within fifty years, Europe would either be Cossack or repub-
lican. Monarchies and empires are of the past. The republic is
the institution of the present and future.”
“ By the deep, twenty-four fathoms.” Deep water this, though
the waves still glisten with the yellow sands of the great river.
The ship rocks, and we rest.
Yellow Sea, Latitude 34° 30’, Sunday, October 23d.—Although
we certainly did lose one whole day on shipboard on the Pacitic,
and although it seems to us that we waste much time on shore, we
find nevertheless, on counting the weeks, and measuring the dis-
tances, that we are moving rapidly. Only last Sunday, we entered
the Yellow Sea from Japan. To-day, after a week of observation
and festivity at Shanghai, we have made one-third of our long
projected voyage
We came on boa
with fear of tem;
the Yellow Sea
because we are
brought no sacre
from the opera.
this morning by 1
ing we have stip
though we have 1
Sunday at sea as
than at home. \
preservation as gi
as fervent, as th
sons going to 5
Hoang-ho—the Y
of China.
Steamer Shan
the noble granite
landmark of Chin
extensive of the e
is the water-shed
the Yellow River
that the Imperi:
Central China wit
inces of Mantchd
huts on the beach
a Buddhist temp
sacred in China as
The appearanq
tain-side reminded
by profound appr
towers above the
that the land once
it off. But this ni
9
99
n.
ler
the
Ica
ected
pub-
ic is
ugh
ver,
ugh
cific,
, we
dlis-
ered
tion
long
ON THE YELLOW SEA. 117
projected voyage to Tien-Tsin. Who can reckon on the seasons ¢
We came on board, prepared with furs and blankets, and shrinking
with fear of tempests. Nevertheless, the heavens are smiling, and
the Yellow Sea is smooth as Owasco Lake. The band, perhaps
because we are travelling in the hemisphere of the heathen, has
brought no sacred music. Happily, it has not forgotten its lessons
from the opera. So we were awakened and brought to the deck
this morning by the “ Dies Ire” chorus from “ Faust.” For even-
ing we have stipulated for the prayer in “ Der Freischiitz.” Al-
though we have no missionaries on board, we have come to regard
Sunday at sea as a day of rest, even more privileged and happy
than at home. We have offered from the deck thanks for our own
preservation as grateful, and prayers for friends at home, we trust,
as fervent, as those which may be made there to-day, “for per-
sons going to sea.” We have just passed the mouth of the
Hoang-ho—the Yellow River—the second of the two great rivers
of China.
Steamer Shan Tung, October 24th—We rounded this morning
the noble granite promontory Shan Tung, which is the most eastern
landmark of China proper, and gives its name to one of the most
extensive of the eighteen provinces which constitute the empire. It
is the water-shed between the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee and the basin of
the Yellow River. It is acrocs the western end of this promontory
that the Imperial Canal bears the exchanges of Southern and
Central China with those of the metropolis and the ovtlying prov-
inces of Mantchooria and Mongolia. Besides some fishermen’s
huts on the beach, we saw only one structure on the promontory,
Buddhist temple. The whole coast of the promontory is held
sacred in China as pertaining to the birthplace of Confucius.
The appearance of a troop of soldiers winding down the moun-
tain-side reminded us that the Tien-Tsin massacre has been followed
by profound apprehensions of foreign war. A lonely, basaltic rock
towers above the sea at the foot of the promontory—a monument
that the land once came there, and that the wasting ocean has cut
it off. But this monument, like all those erected by human hands,
9
is not destinec
flowing throug
base of the pro
The junk i
All its timbers
designed for a x
and its awkwa
HAE
Wi i
1 ATH ati LORE
WH ea Hii j
SHAN-TUNG.
oF
PROMONTORY
from all other s¢
On either side o
asked a Chinese
promptly replied
markab’e coincid
Alaska Indians
never been a mf
CHINESE JUNKS. 119
is not destined to endure. It is already broken, and the sea is
flowing through if. Fishing-smacks flock like gulls around the
base of the promontory.
The junk is an odd-looking affair. It lies low in the water.
All its timbers are quaintly carved, and it is painted as gayly as if
designed for a regatta. Practically speaking, it is a double-ender,
and its awkwardly-rigged and ill-shapen rudder distinguishes it
SHAN-TUNG.
oF
PROMONTORY
a
CHINESE FISHING-SMACK.
from all other sea-craft which have been built since Noah’s ark.
On either side of the bow there is never wanting a huge eye. We :
asked a Chinese seaman the significance of that ornament. He q
promptly replied, ‘Junk no have eye, no can see!” It is a re- -
markab'’e coincidence that not only the boats but the houses of the
Alaska Indians are furnished with eyes. Although China has
never been a maritime power, and is not likely soon to become
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
120
one, it has an internal navigation which has never been and never
can be equalled elsewhere.
Personal coincidences thicken. This morning, one of the
marines communicated to Admiral Rodgers, through the offices of
William Freeman, that he was not unknown to Mr. Seward. The
admiral promptly instituted an inquiry, which resulted in the
marine’s coming to the quarter-deck, and being recognized there
by Mr. Seward as a soldier who served on the escort which attended
him through Alaska last year, and that his knowledge of Mr.
Seward had begun in his having been put on guard at his house in
Washington, on the night of the President’s assassination. Need
we say that he was glad to renew his acquaintance with one who
had been a defender on two such memorable occasions ?
Steamer Shan Tung, October 26th.—Bearing westward from
Shan Tung, we after some hours entered the harbor of Chee-foo,
nearly surrounded by hills. Thus far we have seen nothing sub-
lime, nor even any thing picturesque in China. The northern
shores are only more pleasing than those about Shanghai, because
they are slightly elevated and slightly undulating. Naked and
barren at this season, one might well mistake the region about
Chee-foo for the California coast.
The United States war-steamer Benicia saluted us as we entered
the harbor, and her officers came on board. Chee-foo is one of the
last-opened ports of China. The foreign settlement numbers only
one hundred. The native population is variously estimated at
twenty-five thousand to eighty thousand. The agent of the Steam-
Navigation Company received us on a well-constructed stone wharf,
and has entertained us in the kindest manner. We have made
an excursion in chairs to an eminence that overlooks the town
and harbor, and found there a ruin, but were unable to deter-
mine whether the structure was a temple, an observatory, or a
watch-tower. From its dilapidated walls we counted two hundred
vessels of all sorts and sizes anchored in the bay, although Chee-foo
confines itself exclusively to the coast-trade. In this trade, pressed
tea prepared for the Russian market in the form of bricks, and
scarcely more
native grape ¢
China, but no
Descendin;
beach. Chee-f
of China. The
which was buil
The gentle
and been furnis
the beach. Th
tanced by the e
to learn that th
gees, suitable fo
We left Che
we “caught it.”
sand-colored. /
ridges thirty or.
continually in tl
steamer rocked.
friends who wer
they counted tw
another in sixt
Lieutenant Whe
waggery. But i
made this solem
nearly tn artic
Seward, with fe¢
stanchions at tl
packed, wedged,
Mr. Seward, “ig
of yours?” «
usual gravity, “
“Captain,” said
this rolling a
captain, “she on
of the Colorado's
er
he
of
he
he
are
led
fy.
. in
eed
vho
‘om
foo,
sub-
1ern
Ause
and
out
ered
P the
only
at
eam-
rart,
ade
own
eter-
or a
dred
e-foo
ssed
, and
A STORM AT SEA. 121
scarcely more nutritious, is the chief article. A large and delicious
native grape cultivated here is highly esteemed in all the cities of
China, but no wine is made.
Descending the hill, we enjoyed the walk on the smooth sand-
beach. Chee-foo is a summer resort of foreigners—the Newport
of China. The bungalows, however, are now vacant. One of them,
which was built by a missionary, cost ten thousand dollars.
The gentlemen of our party, having recovered their land-legs,
and been furnished with stout native ponies, made a scrub-race on
the beach. The admiral, “who carries weight for age,” was dis-
tanced by the con: il-general. Our friends at home will be pleased
to learn that the whole party furnished themselves here with pon-
gees, suitable for wear in the tropics, at twenty-five cents a yard.
We left Chee-foo at eight in the evening, and at eleven o’clock
we “caught it.” As we kept near the coast, the sea was shoal and
sand-colored. A strong land-wind arose and blew the water into
ridges thirty or forty feet high, and our course obliged us to travel
continually in the trough. The wind increased to a gale, and the
steamer rocked. How she did rock! Those two of our naval
friends who were left in a condition to do any thing, declare that
they counted twenty-four rollings of the steamer from one side to
another in sixty seconds. It must be confessed, however, that
Lieutenant Wheeler and Mr. Pillsbury are somewhat suspected of
waggery. But it must also be remembered that, at the time they
made this solemn declaration, they supposed themselves to be very
nearly ¢ articulo mortis. Only the admiral kept his feet, Mr.
Seward, with feet braced, being lashed in his chair to strong iron
stanchions at the centre of the middle deck. The ladies were
packed, wedged, and wadded in their berths. ‘ Admiral,” asked
Mr. Seward, “is this rolling and tumbling a customary experience
of yours?” “No,” answered the admiral with not less than his
usual gravity, “ this vessel has a motion entirely unknown to me.”
“Captain,” said Mr. Seward to the master of the Shan Tung,” is
this rolling a chronic habit of your ship?” “No,” replied the
captain, “she only practises it in the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee.” Most
of the Colorado’s marines, and all the musicians except two, were
122 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
helpless. Nothing that was loose remained in place; furniture,
trunks, bags, and boxes, bundles of pongee and baskets of Chee-foo
grapes, went sliding and jamming and punching, backward and
forward, and every way, until our pretty dancing-room gave a
heterogeneous clattering worse than a séance of the Davenport
brothers. In all this noise, confusion, and danger, it may well be
imagined there was no sleep at night, no breakfast in the morning,
and no lunch at noon. The storm abated and the sea began to
subside at three o’clock. At four, the good admiral required such
of the musicians as were sound or convalescent, to play selections
of Offenbach, by way of enticing sea-sick passengers from their
state-rooms. But even “La Belle Helene” and “La Grande Du-
chesse ” alike failed in this sad and trying emergency. There was
neither talking, nor dining, nor wining, until we dropped anchor
at nine o’clock in the open roadstead of Taku. Jere in that road-
stead we are now, waiting for the tide to carry us over the bar at
the mouth of the Pei-ho River.
There is little show of commerce about us. As yet we see no
land, and only a dozen vessels, like our own, riding at anchor. We
are having a first experience of cold. The mercury has fallen to
50°.
Ten o’clock.—We have sir 2d. The pilot has come on board.
The musicians are p'aying their notes, and we are writing up
ours. We hope that the dance which we have left for that purpose
will keep on till the tide changes.
Mouth of the Pei-ho.
of Rivers.—Chir
The City of Tie
mals.—A Messen
Pei-ho Rive
morning, havin,
draws twelve fe
have come safel
native cities of
Europe in Chin:
selves to us,
fied. Though t
have proved ve
which prevent t]
hundred and fif
ivan make. Th
possible for us
through which 1
a population of
more busy villa
consists of thre
business is the t
deposited in lar
channel is crow
ire,
foo
und
ea
ort
l be
ing,
n to
uch
ions
heir
Du-
was
chor
‘oad-
ar at
e no
We
en to
oard.
g up
rpose
CHAPTER V.
UP THE PEIHG RIVER.
Mouth of the Pei-ho.—Chinese Forts.x—American Guns.—The Most Crooked and Mean
of Rivers.—Chinese Dogs.—A Misunderstanding.—Captain Wang.—Our Flotilla.—
The City of Tien-Tsin.—Aspect of the Country.—Our Boat Life.—Absence of Ani-
mals.—A Messenger from Peking.—A Chinese Treder.—Tung-Chow.
Pei-ho River, October 27th.—We passed the bar at three this
morning, having only twelve feet water, while the Shan Tung
draws twelve feet four inches. Thanks to the sandy bottom, we
have come safely over. With the exception of our peeps into the
native cities of Shanghai and Chee-foo, we have so far only seen
Europe in China. Now China and the Chinese have opened them-
selves to us. Taku is the outer port of Tien-Tsin, and is forti-
fied. Though the works are not remarkable for construction, they
have proved very effective defences by reason of the marshes
which prevent the near approach of an enemy. We counted one
hundred and fifty guns in position, some of which are of Amer-
ican make. The forts seem not strongly garrisoned. It was im-
possible for us to ascertain whether the wide-spread settlements
through which we passed after crossing the bar, and which contain
a population of half a million, are one great city, or a hundred or
more busy villages. But we learn that, statistically regarded, Taku
consists of three villages, Taku, Siku, and Sangku. <A leading
business is the trade in salt, which is made on the sea-shore, and
deposited in large quantities on the banks of the rivers. The
channel is crowded with junks, while only one, two, or three for-
124 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
eign vessels ascend or descend it daily. We might well know that
we have attained a higher latitude. The dwelling-houses here are
built, not of wood, but of adobe walls, with chimneys; the streets
as narrow as those of old Shanghai. As we advance up the river,
we can distinguish farms, with spacious and comfortable dwellings
and out-buildings. The Pei-ho seems the most crooked ‘and mean
of all rivers. Only such a people as the Chinese could have made
such a stream a channel of continental commerce. It is about as
wide in most places as our steamer is long. It flows over alluvial
sands; the water is used for irrigating the flat plain. To us, who
are novices here, the cultivation seems successful, and even marvel-
lous; nevertheless, we are informed that this is the most barren
region of the empire. The cereals and vegetables are not different
from those of New York and Pennsylvania, though more various,
They have white, tulip-shaped cabbages, turnips of many kinds and
sizes, peas, lentils, wheat, Indian-cr +, oats, millet, beans, lettuce,
and onions; occasionally rice, potatoes, and sweet-potatoes.
‘Approaching Tien-Tsin, we find the old familiar obstruction of
the “overslaugh” near Albany. The boat goes around every five
minutes, and sometimes, at a bend in tie river, suddenly converts
itself into a bridge. It is doubtful whether we shall reach Tien-
Tsin until another flood. To increase our discomfort, it began to
rain at one o’clock at night, and it still pours, and the mercury in
both thermometer and barometer is falling.
Tien-Tsin, October 28th.—Persevering all night, through all
obstacles, we reached and grappled “the Bund” of the foreign set-
tlement at noon. Here steam-navigation ends. We must stop and
see what next. Tien-Tsin seems worthy to be the entrepot of
foreign commerce, as it is at the head of inland navigation. To
estimate its trade, one has but to look at the flags of all nations on
the merchantmen and men-of-war, in the crowded and eontracted
harbor. These ilags were successively dipped and our own na-
tional steamship, the Ashuelot, saluted us as we worked our way
iv the wharf. The French naval commander and the British and
Russian consuls have already come on board with friendly greet-
ings. The fos
native suburbs.
October 294,
cold weather, a
remain on boa
A Strauss 1
band after din
at the foot of tl
this moment, r
recent massacre
strated against
esced, but they
had a noche tris
We have ha
of flat-bottomed
dred men. All
and packing, in
Seward, with th
of the Ashuelot
that
are
reets
iver,
lings
nean
nade
It as
uvial
who
urvel-
arren
erent
rious.
s and
tuce,
on of
y five
hverts
Tien-
ran to
ary in
ph all
mn set-
pp and
ot of
. To
ons on
racted
Wn na-
wr way
sh and
greet-
A MELANCHOLY NIGHT. 125
ings. The foreign settlement is small, but, contrasted with the
native suburbs, makes a very respectable appearance.
October 29th.— We have had a jar in our party. With dismal,
cold weather, and with muddy streets on the land, we necessarily
remain on board.
A Strauss waltz, suggestive of a dance, was struck up by the
band after dinner, probably at the request of the younger officers
at the foot of the table. Reiiecting on the excitement produced at
this moment, not orly in China, but throughout the world, by the
recent massacre of Christians in this very place, Mr. Seward remon-
strated against the festivity. The young people reluctantly acqui-
esced, but they are consoled this morning by his admission that we
had a noche triste.
We have had a busy day. The gentlemen have secured a fleet
of flat-bottomed sail-boats with crews, in all numbering one hun-
dred men. All the party have been engaged in preparing stores
and packing, intending to embark this evening, Meanwhile, Mr.
Seward, with the admiral, has been entertained with an inspection
of the Ashuelot.
OH.NESE DOGS.
Soe
126 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
The foreigners in China have not forgotten, among the humani-
ties, their interest in the canine race. Dogs of every kind have
come on board, as if appreciating the sympathies of civilization—
the Newfoundland dog, the Australian hound, the Russian blood-
hound, and the universal black-and-tan terrier; but, far prettier
than all those very familiar friends, are a pair of spaniels, purely
bred from Chinese stock, which have come in the staff of the Rus-
sian consul-general. They are small, and of a pinkish-brown,
without a black hair. There is a tradition that Charles I. received
the progenitor of this race, in England, as a present from the Em-
peror of China. It is that identical dog lying on the hearth-rug
that Horace Walpole describes as a “plumy wreath.”
Ten o'clock at night.—
‘¢ The best-laid schemes o’ mice and men
Gang aft aglee.”
The boats did not come to time. This afternoon a chair was
provided for Mr. Seward, and a Mongolian pony for each one of
the suite who chose. This animal, like our Canadian pony, has
' great strength and endurance. Supposing that the plan for the ex-
cursion was fully understood by all, Mr. Seward went ashore and
sit down in his chair, on “the Bund.” At this moment, some one
asked Mr. George F. Seward if he were going to ride. He an-
On this, the inquirer informed Admiral Rodgers
The whole
swered, No.”
that Mr. Seward was engaged, and would not ride.
party at this moment galloped off, leaving Mr. Seward sitting in
his chair, surrounded by his eight coolie bearers, not one of whom
spake or understood a word of English. They waited for orders in
Chinese, which, although Mr. Seward could give in English, there
was no person to interpret.
At the first turn in the road, the equestrians looked back for
their chief. He was not there. Inquiry being made, the admiral
answered that Mr. Seward was not coming out. This satisfied
them for the time, but on further reflection a doubt arose whether
he had so capriciously changed his purpose. So the whole party,
under apprehen
rescue, They fc
pressing on witl
this fauw pas, w
tombs and negle
which stretches
The wall
French invasion.
river.
a glacis twenty f
sures, Which imp
that the work wi
high estimate of
be, the glacis fur
through the para
martello towers,
The Chinese 1
know how to imp
Attracted by mas:
plain to examine
and overlooking
verted into a po
one. Miles arour
Adieu, Shan
your recherché di
certs and balls, yo
and your tumblii
Captain Hawes?
Hail to thee,
squadron, with tl
tow-rope! Hail,
Whatever perils a
least against a wat
Shall we deser
registered the vess
dimensions, and, t
one cabin, less tha
s-
vn,
ved
m-
rug
was
of
has
eX:
and
one
an-
gers
hole
io in
hom
'g in
here
for
iral
stied
bther
rty,
THE PEI-HO SQUADRON. 127
od
under apprehensions for his safety, returned on their track for a
rescue. They found him at a distance of half 2 mile from the Bund,
pressing on with his eight coolies and a mounted guide. After
this fauw pas, we passed over a broad plain covered with crumbling
tombs and neglected graves, and then came to a high outer wall,
which stretches across from the Chinese city to the bank of the
river. The wall was erected during the last combined British and
French invasion. It is an earthwork with a narrow, shallow moat,
a glacis twenty feet wide, and a frail parapet with frequent embra-
sures, which impart to it an ornamental effect. The admiral says
that the work would be of no use as a defence, but he has not a
high estimate of Chinese military science. However that may
be, the glacis furnished us a delightful ride, with beautiful vistas,
through the parapets, across the bastions and under the crowning
martello towers.
The Chinese know as well how to utilize their temples as we
know how to improve our churches for hospitals in time of war.
Attracted by massive portals and higit outer walls, we crossed the
plain to examine a Buddhist temple, standing on a slight elevation
and overlooking the river. We found it had been long ago con-
verted into a powder-magazine. Certainly the place is a fitting
one. Miles around it is one vast suburb of the dead.
Adieu, Shan Tung, with your morning martial promenades,
your vecherché dinners, your quiet card-parties, your evening con-
certs and balls, your rollings, your pitchings, and your groundings
and your tumblings! When shall we see another seaman like
Captain Hawes?
Hail to thee, flat-bottomed boat number four of the Pei-ho
squadron, with thy single main-sail, thy four poles, and thy one
tow-rope! Hail, Captain Wang, and your meek and patient four !
Whatever perils await us under your conduct, we are insured at
least against a watery grave.
Shall we describe the flotilla? The admiral has numbered and
registered the vessels, one, two, three, up to fifteen. They vary in
dimensions, and, though coarsely, are all strongly built. Each has
one cabin, less than five feet wide at the fluor, and one raised bunk
128 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
behind it for sleeping-room. It has cost some care to distribute
among the boats a party so large and so very much mixed. Num-
ber one leads. It bears the Stars and Stripes, and carries the
United States consul-general, Mrs. Seward, and their Chinese ser-
vants. Number two, without colors, bears the two other ladies;
and number three is the flag-ship of Admiral Rodgers, his secretary,
and servants, and floats the national ensign taken from the Colorado,
Number four, under a broader flag, carries Mr. Seward and the
BOATS ON THE PEI-HO RIVER.
faithful Freeman. It is the largest ship in the fleet, thirty feet long,
and twelve feet beam. Of the whole fleet, only number four has
a stove, and this is borrowed from the Ashuelot. Its cabin, there-
fore, is our writing-room. Wang tells us this boat is an inheritance
from his father, and has been in constant use fifty-four years.
Number five carries Mr. Middleton and Mr. Rodman; numbers
seven and eight, officers of the admiral’s staff; number nine is the
dining-room of the party; numbers ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen,
fourteen, and fi
and baggage.
Each boat |
forward deck, y
closed with up:
and full of ere
The boat has a
cabin-door, on v
upon a bamboo-
resort to poles,
selves to the ban
ing the towing-]
on the other en
nessed, they dra
coolies, and we
and charges, six
daylight, and nir
Our naval fri
the party use the
each other. The
navy-rations, anc
We started y
the shipping, ou
the foreign vesse
save the Queen,
anthems, The fi
their flags, and qd
was not doubtful
Peking, at this
free from danger.
The serpentin
city of Tien-Tsin,
mounted with w4
densely inhabited
isstated to us her
estimate it at half
bute
ume
the
. ser-
lies
tary,
rado,
l the
long,
ur has
there-
‘itance
years.
kmbers
is the
irteen,
THE CITY OF TIEN-TSIN.
129
fourteen, and fifteen, have on board, the band, the marines, stores,
and baggage.
Each boat has its sunken cabin with a dark hold under the
forward deck, which is occupied by the crew. The cabins are en-
closed with upright slabs, removable at pleasure. They are old
and full of crevices, and exclude neither the rain nor the cold,
The boat has a single mast forward of the cabin and before the
cabin-door, on which a small cotton sail is rigged with a single reef,
upon a bamboo-spar. When the wind does not serve, the boatmen
resort to poles. When they grow tired of this, they betake them-
selves to the banks, which are neither paved nor graded. Attach-
ing the towing-line to the top of the mast, they make a loose knot
on the other end, and throw it over their shoulders. Thus har-
nessed, they draw the boat up the stream. Each boat has four
coolies, and we pay for the whole voyage, including all the costs
and charges, six dollars a day for each boat, if we travel only by
daylight, and nine dollars if we travel day and night.
Our naval friends have a mess-boat of their own; the rest of
the party use the dining-room. Of course, these parties entertain
each other. The musicians and the marines are supplied with their
navy-rations, and the coolies take care of themselves.
We started with a fair wind this morning, and, as we passed
the shipping, our band made the acknowledgments we owed to
the foreign vessels, by playing first “ Hail Columbia,” then “ God
save the Queen,” the “ Marseillaise,’ and all the other national
anthems. The friendly ships and the consulates on shore lowered
their flags, and gave us cheers and encovfaging salutations. It
was not doubtful that the gallant officers regarded our ascent to
Peking, at this painful juncture, as an adventure not altogether
free from danger. :
The serpentine voyage of three miles brought us to the Chinese
city of Tien-Tsin, enclosed within a stone-wall forty feet high, sur-
mounted with watch-towers, and four miles in circuit. Suburbs,
densely inhabited, crowd the river on both sides. The population
is stated to us here at a million and a half. Travellers generally
estimate it at half a million. We may well accept the higher figure,
130 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
for such a scene of crowded though silent activity we never saw,
“xcept the charred walls, broken towers, and shattered battlements
of the Roman Catholic cathedral and convent lately destroyed,
there is not one massive or pretentious structure. Narrow streets
divide monotonous blocks of one story and two story buildings,
Every small space is filled with countless, moving multitudes,
There is no ferry, but the bridge of boats is crowded with a mass
of men and boys such as “ Fulton Ferry ” presents on a holiday,
Chinese boats choke the channel. We thought we never should
get through the town, but we did. We saw an army of ten thou-
sand men, infantry and cavalry, enter the city as we passed the
western gate. At a distance the array was imposing, but, as we
neared it, we discovered a woful lack of uniformity, as well in dress
as in aris and equipments. . The infantry arm varied from a wooden
club of three fect long, to a matchlock with a seven-foot barrel ;
the music thoroughly discordant, but the yellow banners were fre-
quent, gay, and gorgeous. The march was as straggling and dis.
orderly as the return of the troops from Bull Run to Washington.
It is notorious that, since the massacre, the Chinese have been
gathering a large army at Ticn-Tsin. Foreigners say it is a prep-
aration for war; Chinese official persons, on the contrary, assure
us that it is a precaution against further outbreaks here. It is too
early, however, for us to speak on this exciting topic. On the west
side of Tien-Tsin, as on the east, the plain presents a vast and
cheerless field of sepulture. Leaving this behind us, we come
through cultivated fields, with vegetable-gardens hanging over the
water’s edge. Here we are planting our stakes and tying up for
the night, in such order as the admiral directs. THe has posted a
guard around us. No one passes without giving the countersign,
and each passing hour is called as the hushed night rolls on. It is
cold, and we shrink into our cabins to meditate as we may on the
strange scenes and men around us.
On the Pei-ho, October 30th.—Thanks to our commissary who
procured, and thanks to the generous friends at Tien-Tsin who
lent us the blankets and furs, we have enjoyed a comfortable sleep
’ JOY
in our most tv
rain, the thern
impossible wit!
ing on the slij
canal, it has n
work of that |}
crosses the Yel
but it has lesse
the navigation
gated eighty m
present voyage,
The countr
advance. Alth
busy, and conte
only a few popl
soil, kept as sh
mense populatic
We bought coa
Tsin. Our coo
While puzz
great rafts of tir
timber have con
If up the strea
that it is broug
Peninsula. Fo)
walked this afte
by a marsh whi
distance of twen
bed of the mor
feet long, of sq
thus far seen i
and for what pu
There were no
ment as it disap
rods beyond, a
enclosing a larg
saw,
1ents
rv ed,
reets
ings.
udes,
mass
liday,
hould
thou-
d the
as we
dress
ooden
arrel ;
e tre-
id dis-
1eton.
been
prep-
assure
is too
e west
Bt and
come
er the
up for
sted a
rsign,
It is
on the
y who
1 who
sleep
AN ANCIENT PAVEMENT 131
in our most uncomfortable of boats. We waked in a drizzling
rain, the thermometer at 38°. In such an atmosphere, comfort is
impossible without exercise, which can only be obtained by walk-
ing on the slippery clay banks of the river, for, although it is a
canal, it has no towing-path. The Imperial Canal, the greatest
work of that kind in the world, leaves the Pei-ho at Tien-Tsin,
crosses the Yellow River, and debouches into the Yang-tse-kiang,
but it has lesser slack water and other contrivances, which extend
the navigation to Canton. The Pei-ho River at Tien-Tsin is navi-
gated eighty miles to Tung-Chow, the appointed terminus of our
present voyage, which is fifteen miles distant from Peking.
The country is level and monotonous, but more sterile as we
advance. Although the inhabitants are poor, they seem hardy,
busy, and contented. There is no forest as far as the eye can reach,
only a few poplars and willows, the natural products of an alluvial
soil, kept as shade-trees. It is not easy to discover how the im-
mense population procure the fuel necessary in so cold a climate.
We bought coal, of an inferior quality, at a large price, at Ticn-
Tsin. Our coolies, in cooking, burn only dry stalks of Indian-corn.
While puzzling ourselves over that problem, we discovered
great rafts of timber which choke navigation. Where could this
timber have come from? Could it have come down the stream ?
If up the stream, where was it shipped? On inquiry, we learn
that it is brought across the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee, from the Corean
Peninsula. Forbidding as the way and the weather are, we have
walked this afternoon many miles. Our promenade was arrested
by a marsh which compeiled us to make a short détour, and, at a
distance of twenty rods from the bank of the river, we found, in the
bed of the morass, a pavement forty feet wide and one hundred
feet long, of square hewn granite blocks—the first ruin we have
thus far seen in our journey. Who laid that pavement? When
and for what purpose? Was it the bottom of an ancient canal?
There were no other traces of such a structure. Losing the pave-
ment as it disappeared under the surface, we climbed a knoll fifty
rods beyond, and found there a perfectly artistic granite wall,
enclosing a large area within which no edifice remains. At one
132 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
corner of the wall is an arched gateway half in ruins. Stumbling
through this passage over broken bricks and stones, we entered the
desolate court. Here we confronted a solid marble shaft, five feet
wide and twenty feet high, standing upon the back of a huge
tortoise of the same material, having the exact form and proportions
ui Nature, every line of the shell, body, and claws being executed
with precision and skill. The middle of the shaft, on both sides, is
covered with legends, w!ile each border from top to bottom is
crowded with mythical birds, serpents, and dragons, exquisitely
chiselled. We concluded that a temple had once stood here, and
that the pavement below had served as the grand approach. Why
had it been suffered to fall into ruin? Perhaps we may learn more
as we go on.
October 31st, Ther:nometer 48° Fahrenheit--We have made
half our'voyage. A range of mountains locns up before us in the
west. What mountains? They must be the Altai range. We
have described Mr. Seward’s boat. Would not our friends at home
like to know how nicely the ladies have fitted up theirs? It is not,
indeed, as magnificent as Cleopatra’s barge, but there is no Antony
on the shores. They have a carpet of gray goat-skins, and with
superflnous scarlet bilanke‘s have extemporized a tapestry, which
effectually covers the chinks, .nd excludes the wind. The dais,
two fect high, which serves for a bed, has a drapery of purple and
gray rugs. Their dressing-table, which is a portmanteau on end,
is covered with a gay shawl, and a mirror four inches square, with
a gilt-frame, borrowed from the Ashuelot, hangs above it. For
sofas, they use trunks spread with a white Thibetian fur great-
coat, which Mr. Seward has kindly contributed. The access to this
elegant saloon, which is eight feet square, is not particularly con-
venient—an aperture in the front, two feet square, with a descent
of three feet, without steps or ladder. In going in one stoops and
steps backward ; in coming out, one stoops, and-is pulled upward.
Our habit of travel is settled. The fleet moves, or is supposed to
move, at dawn. We are served with hot tea and a biscuit, with the
thermometer somewhere between freezing and 40°. We draw
water from the
frozen during: {
by a walk of t
wonder at the
other rude farmi
and dwellings w
What seems
domestic animal
seen at the plou;
and hoe. No w
10
ling
the
feet
ge
and
Why
more
made
n the
We
home
5 not,
itony
with
vhich
dais,
ce and
end,
with
For
oreat-
o this
7 con-
ascent
s and
ward,
bed to
th the
draw
CHINESE AGRICULTURE. 133
water from the river, for the toilet, in preference to that which was
frozen during the night in our pitchers. We make ourselves warm
by a walk of two or three miles. In these walks, we stare and
wonder at the uncouth ploughs, the awkward fanning-mills, and
CHINESE AGRICULTURE.
other rude farming implements, and the equally strange farm-houses
and dwellings which we pass.
What seems stranger than any thing else is the absence of
domestic animals. Ilorses, cows, and oxen, are indeed sometimes
seen at the plough, but generally the ground is worked with spade
and hoe. No wheeled vehicle, except rarely a cart, with a mean
10
134 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
calash, drawn by a horse, a mule, or oxen, is seen. Forty sheep here
are a fortune. Mr. Bergh’s sensibilities would be sorely tried if he
could see the burdens and labors imposed on the ass. The hogs are
“black as the ace of spades,” about as thin, and more scarce than
pheasants. Sometimes we take one side of the river, and then
cross to the other. Not unfrequently, by the intervention of head-
land and promontory, we lose sight of our little fleet, or, finding it
in disorder, mistake number two for number four, or the admiral’s
flag for the consul-general’s. Coming in from these walks, we
gather round Mr. Seward’s little stove, read or write, and talk over
the alarms of the night and the incidents of the morning. We
breakfast at eleven, and dine at five. Our stores are chiefly foreign.
As we neither know how to procure nor how to prepare the Chinese
food, the commissariat gives us coffee from Mocha, sausages from
Bologna, biscuit and porter from England, peas from France, sar-
dines from Italy, cheese from Chautauqua, butter from Goshen, and
oysters from Baltimore, with wines from all countries in the world,
except China. Our boatmen, “heathen Chinee” though they are,
have become devoted to us, and, when they sce our long waiting
for breakfast, they kindly offer to share with us their little ménu
of Indian-corn bread, wheaten fritters, and cabbage-soup. After
dinner, we are weary enough to sink into our hard bunks, and cold
enough to draw over us our furs. The boats tie up very punctually
at ten o'clock, and it is by no means safe or pleasant to clamber
over the decks from one to the other.
November 1st-—The November which we have dreaded has
met us here in China, just as it would probably have come down
on us if we had remained at home. Its breath, often cold and
clammy there, is no warmer or drier here. In four days we have
had not one gleam of sunshine. We might well imagine ourselves
on the St. Lawrence, so similar is the vegetation of this sandy plain,
One beautiful feature, however, of the St. Lawrence is missing
here. Instead of the gorgeous autumnal forest, we have only a few
scattered leaves, and those pale-yellow or colorless. We have to-
day added fifteen coolies to our marine.
Mr. Sewar
his crew quic
tinguished th
notice that sto’
dangerous lux
Tung-Chou
to say, a peric
mounted mess
the Russian n
gratulations,
aware of our |
taking hold up
haven during tl
which the grea
sun at last reler
cheerful. The
men and boys,
tering wooden-
blouses—all par
suggesting mat
tense curiosity
As they peep ar
boats, staring w
and complexion
They are never
the motive, the
Every manner
cabbages, and e¢
of the customer
pasteboard quiy
from it instead
lenge each othe
brown bird, sme
seeming a recon
to a gentle pure
here
if he
s are
than
then
nead-
ng it
iral’s
3, We
over
We
‘eign.
nese
from
2, Sar:
1, and
vorld,
y are,
iting
menu
After
1 cold
tually
unber
d_ has
down
d and
» have
rselves
plain.
hissing
-a few
ve to
AT TUNG-CHOW. 13:
Mr. Seward’s cabin has just taken fire, but Captain Wang and
his crew quickly dropped their buckets into the river, and ex-
tinguished the flame. Travellers who come after us may take
notice that stoves on the Pei-ho are not only an expensive but a
dangerous luxury.
Tung-Chow, November 2d.—At a distance of six miles, that is
to say, a period of four hours, before the end of our voyage, a
nounted messenger, coming from the United States minister and
the Russian minister at Peking, met us on the river with con-
gratulations. In the middle of the dark, rainy night we became
aware of our arrival at Tung-Chow by the noise of our tackle
taking hold upon the bank. We saw nothing of this long-desired
haven during the night, though the unintelligible jargon of a crowd
which the great arrival attracted rendered sleep impossible. The
sun at last relents. The scene this morning, though grotesque, is
cheerful. The nocturnal crowd has swollen to a dense mass of
men and boys, all wearing large, broad-brimmed straw hats clat-
tering wooden-soled shoes, and thickly-padded and quilted blue
blouses—all parts of the costume showing the effects of wear, and
suggesting many changes in past ownership. They manifest in-
tense curiosity to learn the secret of our large and imposing flotilla.
As they peep and peer through every aperture and crevice of our
boats, staring with narrow, wondering eyes at our strange costume
and complexion, our toilet has not been made without difficulty.
They are nevertheless quiet and respectful, and, whatever may be
the motive, they seem desirous to please, to serve, and to oblige.
Every manner of small traffic is going on among them. Bread,
cabbages, and cakes, were sold or gambled for according to the taste
of the customer. A “vagrom”-looking fellow flourishes a painted
pasteboard quiver, and turns it upside down, and chopsticks fall
from it instead of arrows. Combative sparrows and canaries chal-
lenge each other through their cages, and a boy carries a pretty
brown bird, smaller than the oriole or the mocking-bird, and which,
seeming a reconciled captive, sings sweetly out a merry invitation
to a gentle purchaser.
136 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
The Pei-ho forms a basin thirty or forty yards wide, which is
here crowded with little junks or boats, most of which are used for
dwellings. The town stands on a terrace which rises gently from
the river. There is no dock, wharf, or storehouse, on the bank he-
tween the river and the terrace. The uncovered sewage of the city
has worn the sloping bank into channels, and between these chan-
nels are promiscuous deposits of merchandise and heaps of compost,
all alike prepared for shipping. The houses on the terrace are low,
but many of them have quite large courts. Their fronts are covered
with fanciful sign-boards. At a bend of the river before us rises
a lofty pagoda of seven stories; the first structure of | is form
which we have seen. We wonder that it is not more extensively
copied in the West, and especially why it is not adopted in place
of our unshapely and cheerless light-house. The name pagoda is
in common use, but dagoba is in use also. A distinction is made,
however. When the structure is small, and is enclosed in an area
with a temple, it is called dagoba. On the other hand, when it
stands by itself, its design is for ornament more than use; it is
then called pagoda. A learned Chinese authority tells us tiat
every structure of the kind, whether pagoda or dagoba, contains
relics of some saint or martyr.
Say what men may, there is a power in gilded epaulets and
buttons. Our naval friends, strong in that power, opened an easy
way for us through the inquisitive multitude; but, in climbing the
slimy bank of the terrace, we encountered an obstacle which neither
gold lace nor buttons could displace. This was a caravan of thirty
laden camels, in single file, as they always move, just beginning
their long journey over the steppes of Russia to Moscow. The
imperturbable beasts, thickly covered with long, scraggy hair, trod
firmly but slowly with their spreading, padded feet. Reaching a
terrace, we were as yet only in a suburb. After many efforts, we
were obliged to give up the exploration. Every street is a deep,
broad gutter, now rendered impassable by mud and rain. We re-
turned to the front, and contented ourselves with looking into the
dwellings and shops. The occupants were neatly dressed, seemed
intelligent, came out of their doors, and saluted us, tendering
their hands ar
us, with a po
dered by dwe
we are from t
hanging on tl
of the globe.
Moscow, and N
with sugar cry
cigarettes. Tl}
numerating bal
all neatly and
spectable assist
us his pretty |
“chin-chinned ’
then read on h
is at once one |
the sale of teas :
dining-room on
Every thing has
and sedan-cuair
array on the bat
Americans, besi(
ants. Captain
on low donkeys
cavalry display,
our chairs for Pe
sity
\an-
ost,
low,
ared
rises
orm.
vely
lace
la is
1ade,
area
en it
it is
tiiat
tains
g and
easy
g the
ither
hirty
nning
The
R trod
ing 2
s, we
deep,
Je re-
to the
bemed
lering
A POLITE CHINESE. 137
their hands and inviting us to enter. One, quite distingué, bowed
us, with a politeness that was ‘irresistible, into a wide court, bor-
dered by dwellings and shops. He indicated a knowledge that
we are from the West by pointing to a Russian chart of Europe,
hanging on the wall. On this we made a rough Mercator sketch
of the globe. He at once marked on it the sites Tung-Chow,
Moscow, and New York. He served delicious tea, quickly prepared,
with sugar crystallized into rock-candy to sweeten it, and Russian
cigarettes. Then he showed us his money-scales, strings of cash,
numerating balls, bills of exchange, receipts, and books of account,
all neatly and carefully arranged. He called in his tidy and re-
spectable assistants and clerks, and with special ..ide introduced to
us his pretty son and heir of six years. We were bowed and
“ chin-chinned ” by our host with his whole family and retinue, and
then read on his sign-board inscriptions which told that the place
is at once one of entertainment for travellers, and an agency for
the sale of teas in the Russian trade. We breakfasted in ouz naval
dining-room on the river at eight. It is now eleven o’clock.
Every thing has been brought ashore, and has been packed in carts
and sedan-cuairs. Ponies, mules, and donkeys, stand in formal
array on the bank, for the whole party, which numbers forty-seven
Americans, besides Chinese servants, drivers, waiters, and attend-
ants. Captain Tilden, on horseback, and his tall marines mounted
on low donkeys, make, it must be confessed, a rather ludicrous
cavalry display, but: perhaps not ineffective for China. We take
our chairs for Peking.
CHAPTER VI.
ARRIVAL AT PEKING.
Passing through Tung-Chow.—Good Behavior of the People—The Road to Peking. —
A Dangerous Highway.—Daniel Webster and John Adams.—A Review of Our
Party.—A Grotesque Procession.—The Eastern Gate of Peking.—The Separation
of the Party.—Anxiety for Mr. Seward.—In Woful Plight.—An Explanation.—
Arrival at the U. 8. Legation.
Peking, November 3d.—The Government at Peking, apprised
of Mr. Seward’s coming, had sent forward two intelligent mandarins
to attend him to the capital. These officers at Tung-Chow sent up
a messenger to report the array and progress of the party, in order
that arrangements might be made for its safe and proper entrance
into the city.
What could be more gratifying {o our national and personal
pride than the prospect, thus opened to us, of a kind and dis-
tinguished reception ? We took our way up the shelving levee, but
without a road or path. We went a long distance down and across
the ditches, which teemed with noxious vapors arising from the
vegetable merchandise and offal of the city. At length our man-
darins brought us up from the river’s edge into bustling lanes,
varying from five to twelve feet wide. The population gathered
to see a procession so unique, and probably to them imposing.
After a full half-mile, we descended into a broad ditch, filled with
water reekingly offensive—a treacherous path for pedestrians, but
Chinese chair-bearers, like Chinese beasts, are sure footed. We
passed through an arch, under a high wall, which stands on the
bank of a moat
ing the city i
inner side of tl
than eighty the
getting throug
the gates and
low, cheap, an
experience, ho
people betrayec
to the Chinese
understood Mr
his white hair,
we do not knov
him, as he pass
ing from the fa:
distant, some sa
road, built thre
wide, and twen
inuidation. T
blocks four or
These blocks we
clamps, so as to
elements have 1
that it cannot be
with comfort an
through the san
this dangerous |]
“ Adiniral
side by side on
Mr. Webster wit
“Mr. Webster se
ing, Mr. Adams
a very old hous¢
landlord does nq
“this road gives
I have seen in ¢
‘ing.—
f Our
ration
Hion.—
rised
arins
nt up
ie
nance
onal
dis-
, but
cross
m the
man-
lanes,
hered
sing.
L with
s, but
We
n the
ADAMS AND WEBSTER. 13
bank of amoat. We should have thought that we were now leay-
ing the city instead of entering it, if the ditch had been on the
inner side of the wall. The city contains within the walls not less
than eighty thousand inhabitants. Hours must have been spent in
getting through it, had not a military or municipal force met us at
the gates and cleared the way. The streets were lanes, the houses
low, cheap, and closely crowded together, as at Tien-Tsin. Our
experience, however, in passing, was particularly pleasing. The
people betrayed nothing of the hate and jealousy which are ascribed
to the Chinese by the Europeans in the open ports. Whether they
understood Mr. Seward’s public character, or were impressed by
his white hair, white Thibetian great-coat, and black Thibetian cap,
we do not know, but the entire population, young and old, saluted
him, as he passed, with unmistakable signs of veneration. Emerg-
ing from the farther gate, we came on the direct road to Peking,
distant, some say, twenty-five miles, others say twelve miles. This
road, built three hundred years ago, is an embankment forty feet
wide, and twenty feet above the plain, which is always subject to
inundation. The whole width has been paved with hewn granite
blocks four or five feet long, two feet wide, and eight inches thick.
These blocks were originally jointed closely and fastened with iron
clamps, so as to leave no crevice or unevenness of surface, but the
elements have long since deranged and dislocated the pavement, so
that it cannot be travelled now either by wheeled vehicles or animals
with comfort and safety. The horsemen and carts prefer to flounder
through the sands and mud of the plains below, rather than to try
this dangerous highway.
“ Adiniral Rodgers,” said Mr. Seward, as they kept their chairs
side by side on this road, “did you ever hear of the interview of
Mr. Webster with John Adams, the day before his death?” “* No.”
“Mr. Webster said to the old statesman, ‘ How do you do, this morn-
ing, Mr, Adams?’ ‘Not very well, he replied; ‘I am living in
avery old house, Mr. Webster, and, from all that I can learn, the
landlord does not intend to repair.’ “So,” eontinued Mr. Seward,
“this road gives me a more painful impression than any thing else
I have seen in China—it shows that the Government has no inten-
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
140
tion to repair.’ The road might be restored as perfectly as before,
simply by reversing the blocks, and bringing them together face
downward. A clear field now allowed us totake a review and cen-
sus of our party. The advance-guard consisted of twelve Chinese
infantry. They wore metallic caps in the shape of Mambrino’s
helmet, torn by the hand of Don Quixote from the head of the
caitiff barber; the caps fastened by long, yellow tassels. Their
uniform consisted of blue nankeen trousers and tunics, on the back
of which was a white circular ground, bearing the inscription in
large, black Chinese characters, ‘“ Valor.” Next came, or, rather,
tried to come, a guard of twelve United States marines on foot, but
the nimble-footed chair-bearers crowded so closely on them that the
entire body took refuge in the rear. Next followed the four chairs
of Mr. Seward, the admiral, and the ladies, with a mounted escort
composed of the gentlemen of the party, civil and military. Then
the musicians and seamen mounted promiscuously on horses, mules,
and donkeys. The sailors found it equally difficult to keep their
seats on the ponies, and their feet above-ground, when riding the
donkeys. We could not count the baggage-carts, which, under the
care of William Freeman, and the protection of a guard of marines,
brought up the rear. Having prudently determined not to shock
the sensibility of the Chinese by any display of banners or musical
instruments, we came along quietly without accident or incident,
until, at a distance of a few miles from Peking, we rose upon
the fine arched bridge of Palikao, where the battle memorable in
the war of the allies against China was fought, and in which the
lately-dismissed War Minister of France gained his title. Here
the native guard halted and ranged themselves at the side of our
cortége, presented arms, and, taking respectful leave of Mr, Seward,
returned to Tung-Chow.
When we had passed the bridge, the sedan-chair occupants, as
well as the horsemen, were seized with a mutual desire for change.
The success of cither party was not brilliant. The chair-riders,
victims of misplaced confidence, tumbled over the heads of the
donkeys, and the cruppers of the mules ; the mounted party spilled
out of the chairs. The country through which we passed shows
less a neglect
way on the r
band of thirty
we might have
badges of autl
luxury of colo1
thing we had
pagoda-shaped
ground, the ex
gold lace. Wi
was rolled fory
The rank of |
Preceding the
woman, holdin
figure represen
grave with him
courtesy than |
and halted to a
At last, afte
Chow, we obtai
rising above m¢
Here the path
smooth, dry sa
to exchange her
United States 1
the Chinese ca
rating, and per
of the party.
on horseback a1
the suburbs in
journey ended,
out paved read,
ment, sank fifte
raining continu
road-bed was c(
carts, going bot
fore,
face
cen-
inese
ino’s
{ the
Their
back
ym in
ther,
t, but
it the
shairs
escort
Then
nules,
. their
g the
er the
rines,
shock
usical
ident,
upon
yle in
*h the
Here
bf our
bward,
ts, as
lange.
riders,
of the
spilled
shows
A CHINESE FUNERAL. 141
less a neglect of cultivation than a dilapidation of estates. Half-
way on the road, we met a grotesque procession. First, came a
band of thirty or forty boys, dressed in scarlet and yellow, whom
we might have mistaken for clowns, bearing staves with fantastic
badges of authority. Next, a band of musicians, displaying equal
luxury of color, banged and drummed on instruments unlike any
thing we had ever seen. Then came an enormous catafalque,
pagoda-shaped, mounted on wheels whose axles just escaped the
ground, the exterior covered with scarlet cloth, richly trimmed with
gold lace. Within was an elaborately-carved coffin. The vehicle
was rolled forward on the rough road by eighty bare-legged coolies.
The rank of the dead cetermines the number of such bearers.
Preceding the car was a mournfully-dressed, sad-looking little
woman, holding up before her a large, painted wooden doll. This
figure represents the wife of the deceased, and is to be buried in the
grave with him, as her proxy. The procession showed to us more
courtesy than funeral-processions ever show at home--it opened
and halted to allow the chairs to pass.
At last, after five hours’ tedious and painful travel from Tung-
Chow, we obtained a full view of the great Eastern Gate of Peking,
rising above monotonous suburbs, not unlike those of Tung-Chow.
Here the pathway on the plain below the embankment was a
smooth, dry sand. How could Miss Seward resist the temptation
to exchange her chair for a fine Arabian horse, which Mr. Low, the
United States minister, had sent down, and so make the entry into
the Chinese capital in a suitable manner? The ride was exhila-
rating, and perhaps excited the envy of the less fortunate members
of the party. She was attended by two friends, one gentleman
on horseback and another on a donkey. The procession reached
the suburbs in tolerable order, but here the amusement of the
journey ended, and its difficulties and sorrows began. The worn-
out paved read, instead of keeping high and dry on the embank-
ment, sank fifteen feet below the level of the strects. It had been
raining continuously in Peking for three weeks, and the sunken
road-bed was covered with mud knee-deep. Villanous Chinese
carts, going both ways, crowded the entire path, obliging not only
142 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
a
the chairs, but the equestrians and pedestrians of the party, horses,
mules, donkeys, and all, to pick and find their way on the broken,
shelving, furrowed, crowded and every way obstructed bank, be-
tween the houses and the road-bed.
We do not know how nor where the little mounted party last
mentioned fell under the guidance of a mute Chinaman on a strong,
fast horse. Pointing, however, to his red cap, either as a mark
for them to follow, or as a badge of his authority, he hastened them
forward and onward. Only for a short time they saw their friends
in the chairs coming on, but falling more and more behind. They
passed under the great Eastern Gate, too much terrified to study
its architecture. They turned into a narrow lane, then by a zigzag
movement into another, at times crossing broader streets which
were obstructed with carts, booths, merchandise, and theatres;
then again into lanes, dark, deserted, and ruinous. If any one can
conceive an obstruction not described, it may be brought into this
picture. Now they climbed steep, slippery embankments, dashing
and splashing against stone posts, sign-boards, and booths, scatter.
ing angry passengers, then pitching into nauseous, muddy pits.
‘They not only lost all idea of courses and distances, but also lost
sight of our whole column, and were effectually lost by them. It
required intense and watchful effort to keep the saddle. What
could all this mear ? Was the mute Chinese guide a decoy, lcad-
ing into an ambush? What could be the motive in bringing a
stranger and a woman there? If not a decoy, why were they led by
a course so blind and tortuous? Why were they separated from Mr.
Seward and our gallant defenders? Perplexed with anxiety for
themselves, and even greater anxiety for Mr. Seward and his friends,
they halted and beckoned to the red-capped conductor for a parley.
Mr. Middleton rode back as nearly as he could over the way he had
come, in search of “our absent friends.” He rejoined them after a
period which scemed an age, and reported that Mr. Seward, nor
the admiral, nor man nor woman, nor beast nor baggage, nor any
other thing belonging to the party, could be found. Meantime
crowds, which their imagination swelled to the entire population of
the city, gathered around them in that woful plight. Well might
they be “in y
tion,” for, as :
and their case
was not one y
cheering or e@1
The mute sign
than this. On
are remembere
a train of load
ing at Tung-Cl
ward, nor give
They grazed al
a wonder how {
foot. The oth
temple, which,
high above an
ings, only variec
as it seemed, de
now only anxio
cicerone, far in
the notes of the
mounted compa
turned a high y
spacious open q
thirty-seven star
tude was even g
Miss Risley alre
he described it,
rated from ther
at once lost all
guide except th
Tien-Tsin, and y
veyed by a routd
by the other pon
and dangerous.
other times, ae
"Ses,
ken,
) be-
last
ong,
nark
hem
ends
They
study
iezag
vhich
tres ;
e can
0 this
shing
atter-
pits.
0 lost
no It
What
ead-
ing a
ed by
aa Mr.
ty for
iends,
arley.
1e had
fter a
d, nor
r any
ntime
ion of
might
A DISAGREEABLE RIDE. 145
they be “in wonder at their case, and be perplexed at their condi-
tion,” for, as the Arab historian says, “their state was wonderful,
and their case was extraordinary.” Among all these crowds there
was not one woman, nor was there a man or boy, who gave one
cheering or encouraging or sympathizing word, glance, or sign.
The mute signed to move on. Manifestly, any place was safer
than this. Only two subsequent incidents of that distracted ride
are remembered ; the first, that in a narrow strect they encountered
a train of loaded camels as long as that we had seen in the morn-
ing at Tung-Chow. These would move neither forward nor back-
ward, nor give room on the right or on the left to let them pass.
They grazed alternately the walls and the beasts, and it is even now
a wonder how they escaped being dismounted and trodden under
foot. The other incident was a momentary glimpse of a stately
temple, which, with blue porcelain roof and gilded dome, towered
high above an unbroken expanse of low, mean, and vulgar dwell-
ings, only varied by intervening heaps of ruins. They then plunged,
as it seemed, deeper than before into miry pits and squalid masses,
now only anxious not to lose sight of the red cap of the mysterious
cicerone, far in advance, and at the same time listening to catch
the notes of the tinkling bells for reassurance that their donkey-
mounted companion was not lost. At last, and all at once, they
turned a high wall, and entered through a substantial gate-way a
spacious open court, over which was waving the constellation of
thirty-seven stars and its thirteen red-and-white stripes. Their grati-
tude was even greater than their surprise at finding Mr. Seward and
Miss Risley already at the legation. His adventurous journey, as
he described it, had been even more perplexing than theirs. Sepa-
rated from them and from the rest of the party, he, like them, had
at once lost all knowledge of both, not knowing that he had any
guide except the two mandarins who had accompanied us from
Tien-Tsin, and who now trod along side of his chair, as he was con-
veyed by a route entirely different from those which had been taken
by the other portions of the party, and equally narrow, obstructed,
and dangerous. At times, he jostled against camel-caravans 3 at
other times, against motley, hurrying crowds; now crossing a
yore
144 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
muddy moat, then scaling the slippery glacis of a frowning bastion,
he occasionally had a glimpse of the admiral’s chair, or Miss Ris-
ley’s, or of a mounted marine or musician, but these invariably
crossed his track, or were going in an opposite direction. He had
his thoughts and his anxieties. Ie now said he could never for-
give the admiral, or the naval officers, or the consul-general, who
had suffered our carefully-organized and well-armed procession to
be broken into fragments, and scattered through the lanes, alleys,
and ditches of the semi-barbarian city. While we were exchanging
these explanations, the remaining fragments of the party, civilians,
ofticers, marines, and baggage, not forgetting trusty Freeman, more
frightened than all, came so rapidly with their chairs, horses, mules,
and donkeys, into the court-yard, that the arrival seemed almost
simultaneous, as it certainly was of one accord.
We soon found out, but not without much inquiry, how it had
come to pass that our entrance into the capital, convrary to our ex-
pectation, was so irregular and disorderly. The Chinese Govern.
ment is at this moment profoundly anxious to prevent a renewal
of the popular commotions which have recently culminated in the
tragedy of Tien-Tsin. They had been informed, by the messenger
whom the mandarins dispatched from Tung-Chow, of the construc-
tion and organization of our party. They had stipulated with Mr.
Low that our band should not play along the road, or in the streets
of Peking. They had, moreover, cautiously sent forward a compe-
tent number of mounted guides, wearing red caps, with instruc-
tions to break up our formidable procession at the Eastern Gate,
and to conduct each portion by a different route through the most
quiet and obscure parts of the city, to meet only at the legation.
Mr. Seward now declined, with many thanks, the invitation of
the Russian minister, received before he left home, and we became
guests of Mr. Low, who, with true Californian hospitality, would
allow no member of the party to find a home outside of the lega-
‘tion. Wearied by the tedious boat-journey from Tien-Tsin, and
the fatigues and anxieties of our grand entry into the Chinese capi-
tal, we unanimously waived the wassail, wine, and music, offered
us at the legation, and retired to an early rest.
Aspect of Peking.—\
ican Chinese,—
The British Leg:
Seward’s Audien
A Chinese Mansi
Peking, Nor
fortable dwelling
long secretary <
was occupied by
it would have be
it for the Unite
nor any other pl
economically bui
After the re
need say little o
is about one m
streets are broac
of highest activi
structions, alway
gusting, There
exception of an
Many of the na
stone posts, set
preventing intru
ion,
Ris-
ably
had
for-
who
mn to
leys,
ging
ians,
more
ules,
most
t had
lr’ @X-
vern-
1ewal
n the
nger
strue-
h Mr.
treets
mpe-
struc-
Gate,
most
Th
on of
bcame
vould
lega-
, and
capi-
ffered
CHAPTER VII.
RESIDENCE IN PEKING.
Aspect of Peking.—Walk on the Wall.—The Foreign Population of Peking.—Two Amer-
ican Chinese.—Native Wares.—The Foreign Ministers. —The Russian Minister,—
{‘he British Legation.—Influence of the United States.—The Hall of Science.—Mr,
Seward’s Audience with the Imperial Cabinet.—A Ladies’ Day.—Chinese Ladies.—
A Chinese Mansion.
Peking, November 4th.—The legation is the spacious and com-
fortable dwelling which was built by the eminent Dr. Williams, so
long secretary and interpreter, and not unfrequently chargé. It
was occupied by Mr. Burlingame, and Mr. Seward now agrees that
it would have been wise, when it was practicable, to have purchased
it for the United States Government. There neither is in Peking,
nor any other place, a building so suitable, nor could one be more
economically built.
After the relation of our experience in entering the city, we
need say little of the general aspect of Peking. The population
is about one million. Differing from other Chinese cities, its
streets are broad enough, but dilapidation and ruin mar the scenes
of highest activity, while the roadways are everywhere full of ob-
structions, always ill-leoking, and sometimes nauseous and dis-
gusting. There are no sidewalks—seldom a pavement. With the
exception of an occasional private lantern, there are no lights.
Many of the narrow streets are rendered impassable by upright
stone posts, set irregularly in the street for the very purpose of
preventing intrusion or passage. Except in the imperial grounds,
146 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
there are no gardens and no fountains, statues, or other monuments
—only compact masses of dwellings and shops, low, old, and mean,
The weather is cold, damp, and dark. <A visit from General
Vlangally has been the incident of the day. The prevailing agita-
tion resulting from the Tien-Tsin massacre is the chief subject of
conversation. Mr. Warden, at Shanghai, and Mr. Low and Dr,
Williams, here, appear to be almost the only persons in China who
take a rational and statesmanlike view of the political situation,
“We must take a walk to see the city,” says Mr. Seward. “There
is no walk in the city,” answers General Vlangally, “except on
the city wall.” “ Very well,” replies Mr. Seward, “then jet us
walk on the city wall.”
Peking, November 4, 1870.—So here we are—on the city wall—
not the outer wall, nor yet the innermost wall, but on an interior
wall which divides the city of the Tartar conquerors from the Chi-
nese city, and at the same time looks over the innermost wall which
encloses the city where the emperor resides, which is therefore called
the “sacred” city. We have reached this commanding eminence
just at the hour when the morning sun is lighting up the snow-
clad mountains which bound the valley of the Pei-ho in the west.
It is cold, out, with furs elsewhere superfluous, and exercise quite
unusual, we can bear it. The legation, where we reside, opens on
the bank of the now dry moat, which lies at the foot of the wall,
The wall is thirty feet high. We have walked several miles on
this elevation, looking down from the parapets on the scene around
us, and have wondered at the numerous gates, all lofty, massive,
and grand; have counted the thousand towers, bastions, and ram-
parts; surveyed the walls of the outer and inner cities; have con-
templated their watch-towers, garrisons, and arsenals; and have
shrunk back from an estimate of the number of the gilded palaces
and temples. If we remember, we recorded yesterday, before
coming up hither, that Peking is a most unsightly and wretched
city. It seems to us now, although walled cities are unfamiliar to
our experience, that Peking is the onl? city, we have ever scen,
sufficiently majestic to be a seat of empire.
ents
ean.
eral
rita-
t of
Dr,
who
tion.
here
t on
t us
‘all—
terior
» Chi-
which
called
hence
SnOW-
west.
quite
ns on
wall,
es on
round
ssive,
‘am
e Con.
have
laces
yefore
atched
iar to
scen,
PEKING.
WESTERN GATE,
148 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
True, these walls, built six hundred years ago, have failed to
protect Peking against the allied forces of Great Britain and
France, and they are confessedly useless for a defence in the mod-
ern system of warfare. But, like all the castellated and ecclesiasti-
cal structures of the middle ages, they are sublime and impressive,
True, even outer walls cramp the growth of cities, while interior
partitions and subdivisions must have an unwholesome effect and
be otherwise intolerable. But the castellated walls of the middle
ages are none the less imposing for all this. The walls of Peking
address themseives no longer to the reason, but to the imagina.
tion. No Chinaman, unless in military or civil employ, and no
Chinese woman under any circumstances, is allowed to go upon the
walls. Why do a people so jealous allow foreigners this privilege
It is allowed because they insist upon it. Could there be a
stronger evidence that China wearies and gives way before the
ever-increasing importunity and exaction of the Western nations ?
We now recall the fact that it was stated by Mr. Burlingame, at
Auburn, that this concession was first made to himself and Sir
Frederick Bruce.
Unhappily, a closer inspection of the wall and its accessories
enables us to see that much of its impressive effect is derived from
artistic imposture. Arsenals, capacious enough for the ordnance
of the Washington Navy-Yard, contain only a few awkwardly-
mounted guns, Painted cannons in the embrasures are substituted
for real guns.
In China the national flag is never seen singly. There are
always double flag-staffs. ach gate-way has a rampart to pre-
vent the direct approach of an enemy. The wall is an earthen
embankment twenty-five feet thick at the base, the outer face
covered with large, hard, gray bricks, easily mistaken for hewn
stone. During the day the gates are wide open, and there is an
indiscriminate commingling of the populations of the Tartar and
the Chinese cities, undistinguishable at least by strangers. Yet
such is the power of habitual jealousy that the gates are peremp-
torily and absolutely closed from sunset until sunrise. A denizen
of one city left in the other at the closing must remain until morn-
i
ing. We look
the emperor, a1
others, are ope
and none but t
by special orde
structure to the
and, being cove
a commingling
of newness or 1
outer city. Th
areas. In one ¢
the other is op
opportunity to |
The brick fa
under them, be:
dated, and the n
with stagnant pc
We have co
population of Pe
sind? One tho
isters, clerks, att
told. Mr. Sewar
legation occupie
Government for
legation of the T
Two Chinese
very costly nati
feet eased in whi
accosted Mr. Se
acquaintance wit
Surprised at. thi
learned the En,
answered, “ that
countrymen, and
Corcoran on Ar]
great adroitness
11
to
und
od-
sti-
ive.
rior
and
Idle
cing
init
| no
the
ge t
ye a
the
ons ¢
e, at
| Sir
ries
from
ance
rdly-
uted
are
pre-
then
face
1ewn
is an
and
Yet
emp-
1izen
LON
FOREIGN POPULATION OF PEKING. 149
ing. We look down easily into the interior city, the residence of
the emperor, and therefore “the Prohibited.” Its gates, like the
others, are open during the day, but they are carefully guarded,
and none but the privileged residents are allowed to enter, except
by special order. The palaces bear no resemblance in form or
structure to the royal dwellings of the West. They are spacious,
and, being covered with yellow tiled roofs, and elsewhere showing
a commingling of light yellow and green, they have an appearance
of newness or recent repair which is in strong contrast with the
outer city. The “ Prohibited City” is divided by a wall into two
areas. In one of these the emperor resides with his family, while
the other is open to the ministers of state. We may have an
opportunity to look more closely into this latter area,
The brick facing of all these walls is giving way. The culverts
under them, besides many parts of the fortifications, are dilapi-
dated, and the moat is either altogether dry or only partially filled
with stagnant pools.
We have come down from the walls. What is the foreign
population of Peking? J)id you say five thousand? Two thou-
sind? One thousand? It is only two hundred—diplomatie min-
isters, clerks, attachés and retainers, and missionary ministers, all
told. Mr. Seward has held an audience of the whole to-day. Each
legation occupies a closed area, a “compound” assigned by the
Government for that purpose. Only a narrow lane divides the
legation of the United States from that of Russia.
Two Chinese were announced this morning. They came in
very costly native attire, shaven, wearing the pig-tail, and their
feet eased in white-soled mandarin boots. To our surprise, they
accosted Mr. Seward in English, calling his recollection to an
acquaintance with him in the State Department at Washington.
Surprised at this, he excitedly asked, how and where they had
learned the English language so well. “Is it possible,” they
answered, “that you mistake us for Chinese? We are your own
countrymen, and you saw us in service when you visited Fort
Corcoran on Arlington Heights.” These two officers have with
great adroitness been engaged by an American mercantile house in
11
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
150
China to acquire the mandarin language, to enable them to act as
agents in trade. On arriving at Peking for that purpose, they
»ssumed the Chinese habit, and, abandoning for the time all foreign
society, they confined themselves exclusively to Chinese inns and
Chinese society. They say they have done this with so much
success that they have never been detected by the natives, except
when surprised in making their toilet. The natives they mect
with often say that their Chinese is imperfect, but they suppose
it to be a dialect of Thibet or some distant province of the empire.
Of course, we must not disclose their names.
Our band of music, having been released from its durance, has
played for every foreign minister, who came to visit us, the na-
tional air of his own country. It has cheered us at lunch, and
awakened the echoes at the elegant dinner given us at the Russian
legation, and it ended by giving the spirited dancing-music for the
sowrce With which the day has closed. It is the first foreign band
of music that has ever come in time of peace to Peking. The noy-
elty attracts native crowds, but excites no ill temper.
Peking, Lyovember 5th.—Deep concern this morning at finding
the earth covered with snow, seeming to demand an early depart-
ure southward. The morning was spent in studying and cheapen-
ing the wares brought by native mer-
chants, and spread over all the floors
of the legation— bronzes, porcelain,
jasper, jade, amethysts, and emeralds,
wrought into the most curious shapes
—sea-otter, sable, Thibetian goat, As-
trakhan, wolf, whitc fox, red fox, bear,
panther, and tiger skins. We shall not report our bargains,
further than that we bought a lapis-lazuli cat for two dollars, for
which the merchant’s first price was twenty-five dollars, and that
Mr. Seward retired in disgust from the trade when his ofter of’ five
dollars was taken up for a lignum-vite box, for which the vender
had all day demanded fifty dollars. As far as the furs are con-
cerned, our friends at home, to whom we send the purchases, will
LAPIS-LAZULI CAT.
judge. Let tl
staple vegetabl
of Peking. It
the continent.
It is remar
favored perfect
manufacture of
brought into us
of woollen fab:
among the poo:
and quilted. Su
The class a litt
with the wool o:
dresses in fur—t
his robes of sab)
Alaska. The 7
largest purchaser
November dt
political rather
worked out here
at Yeddo. It ig
profligate retair.e
November 6th
is generally und
the world, By
Atfiirs at any ea
would express it,
Mr. Seward hay
magic ring readi
Peking is rather ¢
is doyen. Distin
a discreet, modest
exercise very coq
while he enjoys tl
CHINESE GARMENTS. 151
t as judge. Let this detail serve as an instruction that, as tea is the
hey staple vegetable production in China, so furs are the great import
oion of Peking. If is the central market for the northern regions of
and the continent.
uch It is remarkable that, while the ancient civilization of China
cept favored perfection in the use of the loom andthe needle in the
meet manufacture of silk, cotton, and embroidery, it seems not to have
pose brought into use either the loom er the needle in the manufacture
pire. of woollen fabrics. The want of woollen clothes in the winter,
among the poorer classes, is supplied by cotton and silk, wadded
, has and quilted. Such garments admit of no washing and little change.
> na- The class a little higher clothe themselves in dried sheep-skins
and with the wool on; but every person, who can afford the luxury,
ssian dresses in fur—the richer the person, the more eicgant and costly
r the his robes of sable. Siberia sends her furs to Peking, and so does
band Alaska. The Tartars and Russians, after the Chinese, are the
; NOV- largest purchasers.
November dth.— Peking wears everywhere the aspect of a
nding political rather th:n a commercial capital. Mtevolution has not
epart- worked out here any such political, social, or military changes as
apen- at Yeddo. It is tho residence of idle, profitless, perhaps often
profligate retair.ers of the Government.
November 6th.—A correspondence much more intimate than
is generally understood exists between the several cabinets of
the world. By international usage, the Minister of Foreign
Atiirs at any capital is the head, or, as our Hibernian friends
would express it, the “head centre” of the diplomatic body there.
“oniNs, Mr. Seward having occupied that position at Washington, the
urs, for magic ring readily opens to him, wherever we go. The circle at oe
a that Peking is rather a contracted one just now. The Russian minister ¢
of five is doyen. Distinguished by military service in the Crimea, he is = 4
vender a discreet, modest, and intelligent guntleman, and is understood to
exercise very considerable influence over the Chinese cabinet,
while he enjoys the respect and contidence of his colleagues. The
fe con
18, will
152 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Russian legation has a spacious, costly, and elegant residence, and
an imposing personnel. Besides tour secretaries and a surgeon, it
maintains a Greek chapel, open to native converts, and a Cossack
guard, with extensive stables. The German legation has more
moderate appointments. The minister, Baron Rehfues, is respected
for his large experience. The British representative, Sir Ruther.
ford Alcock, is absent. His place is filled by Mr. Wade, against
whom there is a universal outcry, among the foreigners in China,
for his supposed tameness in regard to the matter of the Tien-
Tsin catastrophe. He is, nevertheless, a wise, learned, prudent,
and practical minister. Mrs. Wade, a daughter of Sir John Her.
schel, is very intellectual, liberal in her opinions, and carnest
in her admiration of American institutions. During the social
banishment she has endured here, she has successfully acquired
the difficult mandarin dialect. The British Government is lavish
toward its legation. The residence was purchased at large expense
from one of the imperial princes, and repaired last year at a cost
of one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. The legation
maintains a chapel, four secretaries, six diplomatic pupils, end a
strong military guard. The I’rench legation has Count Rochefort
acting as chargé @affaires. Far less discreet than our excellent
friend Berthémy, or his predecessor, De Montholon, who were so
acceptable in the United States, Rochefort has proved himself
vehement, impetuous, impracticable, and inconstant in his reclama-
tions on the occasion of the massacre of the French consul and
nuns at Tien-Tsin, while the military disasters which have just
overtaken France at home have rendered her representative here
powerless. The Danish and Belgian missions are only occasional,
and little more than nominal. Their incumbents are accredited to
Japan as well ss to China. The Dane took leave of us at Yeddo,
to repair to Peking before us, but has not yet arrived. Mr. Low,
the United States minister, is a very able man, of much equa-
nimity, enjoying equally the confidence of the Chinese Govern-
ment and that of the diplomatic corps. The appointments of this
legation, like those of the United States elsewhere, are moderate.
Frederick the Great hardly practised greater parsimony in foreign
diplomacy than
chapel, nor sur,
secretary, who i
in Japan, we he
of our national
tinually of Russi
ascendency at Y
ated. The arch
during his resid
than any or all
of this prestige,
Mr. Van Valkenl]
surpassed in cons
tives in Japan.
in either country
ures of local adm
Britain. There -
from the prestige
They appear in
just and magnani
fairness in politic
demand no advar
powers. Russia,
China, but a colos
existing between
of the border pr
tion. Moreover,
her railroads, dil
that, while the fr
theless prove a pq
The prestige
the European Co
the influence she
sults. This com
factures which ar
Great Britain, th
and
n, it
sack
nore
acted
ther-
ainst
hina,
Vien-
dent,
Her.
rnest
social
uired
lavish
pense
mb cost
pation
and a
hefort
cellent
ere 80
imselt
clama-
ul and
© just
e here
sional,
ited to
Y eddo,
. Low,
| equa
rovern-
of this
derate.
foreign
TIE FOREIGN MINISTERS. 153
diplomacy than our Government does. Mr. Low has neither
chapel, nor surgeon, nor official dwelling-house. He has one
secretary, who is also his interpreter, and no guards. Here, as
in Japan, we hear our countrymen lament an alleged inferiority
of our national importance and influence. They complain con-
tinually of Russian ascendency at Peking, as they do of British
ascendeney at Yeddo. The grievance in each case is exagger-
ated. The archives at Washington show that Mr. Burlingame,
during his residence here, exerted a greater influence in China
than any or all of his colleagues. Nor has Mr. Low lost any
of this prestige. So also Mr. Townsend Harris, Mr. Pruyn, and
Mr. Van Valkenburgh, as well as Mr. De Long, have not been
surpassed in consideration and uscfulness by foreign representa-
tivesin Japan. Nevertheless, the influence of the United States
in either country is far less distinguishable in the shaping of meas-
ures of local administration than that of Russia or that of Great
Britain. There is sufficient reason for this, without derogating
from the prestige of the United States. They are a distinct nation.
They appear in China, as ticy do in Japan, in the character of a
just and magnanimous. power. They offer little but equality and
fairness in political, commercial, and social intercourse, and they
demand no advantages that are not equally conceded to all other
powers, Russia, on the contrary, is not only a near neighbor of
China, but a colossal one. The commercial and political relations
existing between them are various and intimate. The populations
of the border provinces of the two empires have a close assimila-
tion. Moreover, Russia advances nearer to China every day with
her railroads, diligence-lines, and telegraph. The Chinese know
that, while the friendship of Russia is invaluable, she may never-
theless prove a powerful, if not fatal enemy.
The prestige of Great Britain throughout the world, even on
the European Continent, is derived chiefly from the,dominion and
the influence she wields in the East, and the commerce which re-
sults. This commerce, again, is the essential support of the manu-
factures which are the basis of the prosperity of the English people.
Great Britain, therefore, wisely spares no care and no cost in main-
154 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
taining not only a diplomatic foree, but a naval predominance, in
the East. India, China, and Japan, are her proper theatre. In
this great national policy she necessarily encounters rivalry and
resistance. She has appeared in China more than once as an
enemy, and proved her power, as well to destroy as to protect
and save. It suits her interest to be here now as a magnanimous
friend, like the United States. Long may the two nations remain
in that accord !
November Tth—We have just come from a visit to the for.
lorn “ TLall of Scien:e.? The Chureh of Rome has been perse-
]
“
Eo Fee ~
‘ ~~ a
WWM es frit VK a
ais TO te a .
a , yy ” 3. =
MmiNiineenpac, Gg
Tt», WO s
ANOIENT OBSERVATORY, OR HALL OF BCIENOCE.
vering in its attempts to Christianize China, but has left there,
thus far, only monuments of its failure. One of them is the Ob-
servatory, otherwise called the “Tall of Science.’ The great
Protestant Reformation in Enrope was, as every one knows, fol-
lowed by a hardly less remarkable reaction and revival of the
Roman Catholic Church originating in the inspiration of Ignatius
INTE
Loyola, and co
founded. In
of the Tartar ci
superintendence
They procured ;
nomical instrum
suggested, and ¢
These instrume’
out aay protect
years, are still
One of them i
the constellatior
astronomy as it
astrolabe, an ar
and quadrants.
which attended
the Jesuits, her
they were dismi
care of native pi
base of the Obs
the two or three
rect the ealenda
for the almanaq
marriages, barg;
November 8
given to Mr.
Jabinet (Yamer
ize, arrange anc
“none but the
mandarins dese
are allowed to
suits their com
color indicativd
Rodgers, the T
their scats in g
in
In
and
B an
tect
10U8
main
for-
erse-
here,
Ob-
rreat
5 fol-
" the
atius
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 155
Loyola, and conducted chiefly by the Society of Jesus which he
founded. In 1680, the Emperor Kang-Hi erected on the wall
of the Tartar city an observatory, committing its construction and
superintendence to Jesuit professors, with a muniticent endowment.
They procured in Paris, Venice, Genoa, and London, bronze astro-
nomical instruments, the most perfect that science had at that time
suggested, and of stupendous magnitude and magnificent execution.
These instruments, set up in the open air, and thus exposed with-
out aay protection against the weather one hundred and ninety
years, are still in perfect condition, and as available as at first.
One of them is a celestial globe, seven feet in diameter, with
the constellations raised upon it, showing the exact condition of
astronomy as it stood two centuries ago. Besides this, there are an
astrolabe, an armillary sphere, trigonometers, transit instruments,
and quadrants. Although the institution remains, the circumstances
which attended its foundation have entirely passed away. Whe
the Jesuits, here as in Japan, betrayed the ambition of the Church,
they were dismissed and banished. The institution fell under the
care of native professors, by whom it has been neglected. At th:
base of the Observatory is a shabby suite of apartments, in v hich
the two or three native professors dwell, whose business it is tu cor-
rect the calendar of the seasons astronomically, while they designate
for the almanac the days which are lucky and unlucky for births,
marriages, bargains, journeys, combats, festivals, and funerals.
November 8th.—The event of the day has been an audience
given to Mr. Seward, with Admiral Rodgers, by the Imperial
Cabinet (Yamen). It required great skill and much care to organ-
ize, arrange and mount the party. If, among the Western nations,
“none but the brave deserve the fair,” so, in China, none but great
mandarins deserve to ride in chairs, and only princes and ministers
are allowed to ride in green chairs; and this, not because green
suits their complexion the best, but because green in China is the
color indicative of preéminent rank. So Mr. Seward, Admiral
Rodgers, the United States minister, and the consul-general, took
their scats in green chairs, while the staff and others were mounted
156 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
on ponies, so far as the capital furnished a supply. The “ balance,”
as our campaign-speakers say, went in carts. The progress was
on the avenue—not Pennsylvania Avenue by any means, but the
avenue without show of pavement, which leads from the Imperial
city, through the Tartar city to its outer wall. It was obstructed
with auctions, theatrical entertainments, gambling-rings, and every
thing else. The head of the procession, consisting of the green
chairs, winding its way among these obstructions by the vigor and
adroitness of the bearers, reached its destination, and alighted at
ithe porch of the foreign office. It is a low Chinese structure; the
doors, wide open, revealed the Yamen arranged in a row within
to receive the guests. But the head of the procession, discovering
that the tail had fallen off, decided to wait outside, until the lost
member should reconnect. This made a delay of twenty minutes,
which, 2s we suppose, was imperfectly explained to the ministers
within, who made an unmistakable demonstration of impatience.
Perceiving this, the head entered, leaving the caudal part to come
up to time as it could. In the middle of the room stood a table of
the common European height, cight feet long and three feet wide.
Broad and comfortable stools were placed around it; there was no
carpet or other furniture, but a kind of divan or sofa against two
sides of the wall. My. Seward and his chief associates of the green
chairs were graciously received by five chief ministers of state, all
of grave aspect, and two of them of advanced age. They were
richly dressed in silks, over which were spread ermine and other
furs. They saluted their guests at first in the Chinese fashion, by
bowing with hands brought palm to palm on their breasts; after
this they shook hands in the American way. All the ministers
then busied themselves in a somewhat demonstrative way in scat-
ing their guests. Two of the Chinese ministers took their seats at
the upper end of the table, in the order, not of their rank, but of
seniority. They placed Mr. Seward at the side of the table on the
left, then Mr. Low, then the admiral, and then the consul-general ;
next two interpreters. The remaining members of the cabinet
completed the circle. The table was thickly spread with china
dishes filled with Jon-bons and dried fruits. The presiding min-
INTEI
ister then rose a
Kung, regent of
had been sudde
his return from
mect Mr. Seward
net to receive hi
to a future occas
minister said he
garded it as a gre
with Mr. Sewarc
soon as he shoul
residence. Altha
distrust or hesita
reénforced it.
Mr. Seward tl
was absent. The
ill, and had just
ministry for a ye
instantly dispatch
inquiries. The ¢
, all
vere
ther
, by
ifter
ters
cat-
s at
of
the
ral;
inet
ina
1in-
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 157
ister then rose and announced that his Imperial Highness Prince
Kung, regent of the empire during the minority of the emperor,
had been suddenly attacked this morning by a violent illness, on
his return from the imperial palace. He lamented his failure to
PRINCE KUNG.
meet Mr. Seward, as he had appointed, and had charged the cabi-
net to receive him with this apology, or to postpone the audience
to a future occasion, as Mr. Seward himself might prefer. The
minister said he was charged by Prince Kung to say that he re-
garded it as a great distinction that he was to become acquainted
with Mr. Seward, and that the prince intended in any case, as
soon as he should recover his health, to visit Mr. Seward at his
residence. Although Mr. Seward accepted the apology without
distrust or hesitation, yet all the members of the cabinet earnestly
reénforced it.
Mr. Seward then inquired about the health of Wan-Siang, who
was absent. The presiding minister replied that Wan-Siang was
ill, and had just obtained leave of absence from his post in the
ministry for a year, to mourn the deat! of his mother. But they
instantly dispatched a courier to him, communicating Mr. Seward’s
inquiries. The courier, in less than half an hour, brought a mes-
158 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
sage of thanks and friendship from Wan-Siang. Later Mr. Seward
spoke of the ability which Wan-Siang had displayed in his negotia.
tions with the United States, and of the friendship he had always
manifested toward our country. These words, like Mr, Seward’s
previous inquiries, were taken down and reported to Wan-Siang by
a courier, and elicited a similar reply. The ministers spoke with
much feeling of the death of Mr. Burlingame. Mr. Seward said
that Mr. Burlingame’s diplomatic career was an illustration of the
highest possible success. A minister lives always under two dis.
tinct and sometimes irreconcilable obligations: Tirst, he must
retain the confidence of his own country; secondly, be must not
fail to win the confidence of the country to which he is accredited,
Mr. Burlingame filled both obligations, and thus was enabled to
unite the two nations in a new bond of peace, and in a common
effort to advance civilization. The ministers thought themselves
under obligations to Mr. Seward; in the first instance, for the ap-
pointment of Mr. Burlingame as United States minister to China,
and then for receiving him as minister of China to the United
States and Europe.
Mr. Seward inquired the number and functions of the “ Banner-
men.” The ministers replied: ‘ They are four distinct legions, con-
taining many thousand men. They all reside at Peking. They
are sworn to maintain and defend the emperor in all conflicts,
whether at home or abroad, and in compensation for this service
they all receive stipends from the Government. But the organiza-
tion of the legions is worn out. The service is a sinecure, costly,
and useless.”
Manifestly the ministers feared that the apologies for the absence
of Prince Kung from the reception might be thonght by Mr. Sew-
ard insincere and evasive, for they returned to the subject contin-
ually. He assured them that, although he had during eight years
conducted the diplomatic relations of the United States with China,
yet in all that time not one case of procrastination or subterfuge,
on the part of the regent, had occurred. Mr. Seward hoped for
the prince’s speedy recovery, and begged the ministers to be at
their ease about the present disappointment.
INT
The senio:
dressed Mr. Si
solemn stage
Mr. Seward’s 1
national proce
entered the ga
at once the ¢
gathered there
upon the pore
lamations wer
which our frier
stood to be, J
too, but where
could not disco
guests all four,
ceive the tail, a
important extr¢
buttons, its blu
benches aroun
minister renew
around him, sai
statesman here.
live to reach y
seventy-five, ar
age.”
This answer
the Chinese e:
sitely courteous
brought in, fill
Then followed
birds’-nest sou
of bamboo boi
many kinds, fis
known. Thes
hundred and fit’
bits on tiny pla
vard
Otia-
Ways
ard’ s
g by
With
said
f the
. dis-
must
| not
lited.
ed to
mon
elves
1e ap
hina,
nited
nner-
, COn-
They
flict 8,
ervice
WMiza-
ostly,
sence
, Sew-
ontin-
; years
China,
rfuge,
ed for
be at
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHINESE CABINET. 159
The senior minister then, in a most reverential manner, ad-
dressed Mr. Seward, “ What is your venerable age?” Just at this
solemn stage of the audience, when all were silently waiting for
Mr. Seward’s reply, what should appear but the tail of our great
national procession! Slowly eliminating itself from the street, it
entered the gate, crossed the court, and appeared at the door. All
at once the queued sub-officials of the foreign office, who had
gathered there to be witnesses of the interesting ceremony, rushed
upon the porch to discover the cause of the interruption. Proc-
lamations were then made in Chinese by the ministers within,
which our friends outside, not waiting for an interpretation, under-
stood to be, “ Make way for the tail!” Way was made, and quickly
too, but where the amazed native lookers-on went to, our friends
could not discover. The Chinese ministers all five, the American
guests all four, and the interpreters twain, rose to their feet to re-
ceive the tail, and remained in that respectful attitude until that
important extremity had extended itself with its gilt epaulets and
buttons, its blue and black coats, and white gloves, on the row of
benches around the room, Order being restored, the presiding
minister renewed the suspended inquiry. Mr, Seward, looking
around him, said: “TI think I am neither the oldest nor the youngest
statesman here. Iam sixty-nine. I hope that the youngest may
live to reach your own honorable age, which I understand to be
seventy-five, and that all may be blessed with years beyond that
age.”
This answer of Mr. Seward was reccived with great hilarity by
the Chinese cabinet, and unanimously pronounced to be so exqui-
sitely courteous as to deserve a bumper. Thereupon glasses were
brought in, filled with a hot, strong drink, which they called wine.
Then followed a slow and measured succession of delicate viands,
birds’-nest soup, pigeons’-eegs, eabbages minced, and tender shoots
of bamboo boiled, pheasants, grouse, and stewed wild-ducks of
many kinds, fishes, shayks’-fins and other luxuries with names un-
known. These dishes, in the whole numbering not less than one
hundred and fifty, were severally served to each guest in the smallest
bits on tiny plates, which at last crowded and encumbered the table.
160 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
These plates were filled by the ministers from tureens, which con-
tinually replaced each other. Each visitor was provided with knife
and fork, as well as chop-sticks. It is etiquette here for each person
to help every other person at the table to every course that comes
on. Occasionally, Mr. Seward raised a political question of some
sort, but the ministers adroitly passed it by. Whether they were
unwilling to speak freely in the absence of the regent, or whether
they feared to expose themselves before the crowded Chinese audi-
ence, which had agaja gathered in the apartment, Mr. Seward could
not determine. We icara that all the offices of the Government
are filled or suspected of being filled with spies. It was soon
manifest that little was to be learned of Chinese affairs at this
magnificent entertainment. The ministers, with evident self-satis-
action, entertained their guests with familiar Chinese proverbs,
epigrams, and riddles, and they resolutely persisted in accepting as
clever every thing said by Mr. Seward, or either of the other guests,
however commonplace it might be. Two of the ministers are
poets; they rehearsed their own verses and other Chinese poetry,
with marked emphusis and at great length. Neither of the inter-
preters, however, could render these verses into intelligible English.
But the guests received the rehearsal as fine, nevertheless,
One of the ministers said ; “ My. Seward, your complexion is very
fresh and your step vigorous. You must have a secret, which en-
ables you to preserve them through such great labors and travels.”
* You are complimentary,” answered Mr. Seward; ‘ what
health and strength I have are due to activity and exercise.”
To this one of the poetical ministers responded: “ Yes, every
thing in the universe is constantly active; only the Creator of all
is at rest.”
Mr. Seward now began to understand that this reception was
intended less as an audience than as a feast, and that drinking deep,
or at least often, is here a requirement of such an entertainment.
The ministers descanted both in prose and poetry, with proverbs
and epigrams, on the virtue of hospitality, and the excellence of
conviviality. They drank deep and filled up often.
Addressing Admiral Rodgers, one of the two Anacreons insisted
that the best
ment is, to a
Aduiral ]
and I invite ;
possible, and |
The cabin
by vehement
them took the
than before.
The hospi
head of the }
served to the 1
discussed with
ing silence,
After a sitt
belonged, brot
his august ente
to China,”
The minist
amend by addi
Mr. Sewar
ment, which b
all the party :
* Perpetual
United States,
The visitors
ing and hand-s
legation at a vy
any more firm
“order of its {
fore sitting doy
tuinment of th
November §
word yet from
one hundred ay
on-
rife
son
mes
me
vere
her
udi-
ould
1ent
soon
this
atis-
orbs,
ig as
lests,
3 are
etry,
nter-
rlish.
very
1 en-
rels.””
what
every
of all
n was
deep,
ment.
yverbs
hee of
isisted
NIOSPITALITY OF THE MINISTERS. 161
that the best proof of friendship that one can give at an entertain-
ment is, to get drunk. All his associates facetiously concurred.
Adiiral Rodgers answered: “I accept the generous sentiment,
and I invite all the members of the cabinet to get as drunk as
possible, and as quickly as they can.”
The cabinet showed its appreciation of the admiral’s repartee
by vehement laughter and much gesticulation. At least, one of
them took the gallant admiral at his word, and drank much deeper
than before.
The hospitality of the ministers was not monopolized by the
head of the procession. Dainty dishes and strong drinks were
served to the tail as it lay stretched along the benches. They were
discussed with entire satisfaction, but in respectful though wonder-
ing silence.
After a sitting of four hours, Mr. Seward, to whom the right
belonged, brought the entertainment to an end by proposing to
his august entertainers: “ Perpetual peace, prosperity, and welfare
to China.”
The ministers deliberated, consulted, and then asked leave to
amend by adding the words, “and the United States.”
Mr. Seward accepted the amendment with a further amend-
ment, which brought the sentiment into this form, satisfactory to
all the party :
* Perpetual peace, prosperity and welfare to China and the
United States, the oldest and the youngest of empires.
The visitors rose, and, after the most respectful and cordial bow-
ing and hand-shaking, were dismissed. The procession reached the
legation at a very late hour. We have not heard whether it stood
any more firmly on the order of its coming. than it did on the
“order of its going,’ as the gentlemen had no time to report be-
fore sitting down to Mr. Low’s dinner, the great diplomatic enter-
tainment of the season.
November 9th.—Three months to-day from Auburn. Not a
word yet from home. Mr. Seward has sent a telegram by courier
one hundred and eighty miles to Kiakhta, on the Russian frontier,
162 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
there to be put on the Russian wires. How much more have we
seen and learned, in these three months of foreign travel, than we
could have seen and learned within the same period of travel at
home! A messenger has come to the legation with compliments
to Mr. Seward, and a polite inquiry whether his reception yester-
day was agreeable to him. They desired him to know that they
never unbent themselves so much to a stranger as they did to him
on that occasion.
This has been especially a ladies’ day. Yang-Fang, pawnbroker
YANG-FANG,
by profession, mandarin by rank, one of the three richest men in
Peking, was educated at Shanghai, where he had some opportuni-
ties of seeing the Western mode of life. Ile is desirous of culti-
vating the acquaintance of foreigners here so far as le can do so
without exciting Chinese suspicion of his loyalty. Ife tendered an
invitation to the three ladies to visit his family. The invitation
was communicated confidentially, and with the condition that they
should be attended by only two gentlemen, neither of whom should
be an official person. The ladies went at one o'clock to-day, in
THI
closely-covered ¢
into a narrow an
of an outside w:
this gate they we
or four steps, the
them there with
and led them tli
the party to her
combination of ]
half a dozen min
the Yosemite va
can. sewing-macl
cloth, Chinese d
knick-knaeks, bi
pots filled with
black cat, six find
ment of this sing
European sofas,
compliments as
tion
they
ould
y, In
THE LADIES VISIT YANG-FANG’S WIFE. 163
closely-covered chairs, through familiar streets, until they turned
into a narrow and uninviting one. There they stopped at the gate
of an outside wall, one of many gates of the same kind. Through
this gate they were ushered into a paved court. Ascending three
or four steps, they entered a second gate. The mandarin received
them there with his wife and five handmaidens who were waiting,
and led them through a corridor. This ceremony over, the wife led
the party to her boudoir. This room is furnished with a curious
combination of European and Chinese styles. A Brussels carpet,
WITE OF YANG-FANG, (FROM A PHOTOGRAPIT BY LUMSELF.)
half a dozen mirrors of different sizes, with gilt frames, pictures of
the Yosemite valley, a French clock, a barometer, a small Ameri-
can sewing-machine with a crank, two chairs covered with red
cloth, Chinese divans, a French bedstead with curtains, Trench
knick-knacks, but no Chinese ones, rows of porcelain vases, and
pots filled with chrysanthemums, an aquarium with gold-fish, a
black cat, six finely-bred spaniels, and a monkey, made the comple-
ment of this singular apartment, The visitors, taking seats on thie
European sofas, and the Chinese ladies on the divans, exchanged
compliments as well as they could, the American ladies trying to
164 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
recall the instructions they had received from Chi-Tajen at Auburn
Next the Chinese ladies took the watches, gold chains, brace |ots,
and foreigr rings, auc inspected them caretully. At the sanie time
icy put into the hands of their visitors their own ornament.,
pearls, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and amethysts. After this the
Indies of the house examined the American ladies’ dresses, hats,
and gloves, marking well the fashion and material, and in a gentle
and unaffected way offered to inspection their own richer and more
elegant costumes of silk and embroidery. The wife is a delicate-
looking woman of forty. She wore a lavender-colored, embroid-
ered crepe petticoat, over this a double tunic of two pretty shades
of blue silk, trimmed with a variegated chintz border, scarlet satin
embroidered under-sleeves, so long as nearly to conceal the slender
hands—the nails, as long as the angers, polished and stained to re-
semble tortoise-shell, each nail having for its protection a wrought
gold case. Iler coarse, black Mongolian hair, carefully dressed
and fastened with gold pins, was partly covered with a black-satin
LONG NAILS,
cap, tied at the back. This cap, not unlike in shape to the “ Mary
Stuart,” was entirely seeded with pearls, rubies, emeralds, and
sapphires, many of them, especially the pearls, large, and of rar
could be had,
were not more than three inches long, and were tightly encased
value. Iler fect, of which only occasional glimpses
» scarlet-satin shoes; her face and neck, literally plastered with
pearl-white, in shocking contrast with eyelids and cheeks painted
pink, and lips red; her manners and speech are unmistakably
refined ; she ‘s
handmaideis w.
“nt, showed tl
handsome, dress
or had small fee’
women have. *
accredited to th
mothers rather ]
mutual inspectio
ors Were next cor
apartinent, the ¢
a covered table, ;
carved Chinese
of chemical, pho
of European mai
first the English
which has the ex
less variety and
and one of the w
others busied th
entertainment, w
ladies, with their
made of Turkish
silver pipes. Th
blown out of the
visitors tried to iy
nothing, but jan
leavored to a
poke To them as
}
mandarin impro
Hurope nh custon
visit, and then sh
These have only
Ile even ndue
with its carefull
‘ ue
when the delicion
12
Urn
ete,
‘ime
Nts,
the
lats,
ntle
nore
-ate-
roid-
ades
satin
nder
O I'C-
ught
assed
satin
a =
AN ENTERTAINMENT. 165
refined 3 she is veputcd intellectual, and fond of books. The five
haundmaideiss were dressed in a manner which, though not inele-
wnt, showed the inferiority of their position—-one of them very
handsome, dressed in scarlet satin, but none of the tive wore jewels,
or had small feet. The wife has no children; two of the waiting-
women have. White, by the custom of China, these children are
accredited to the wife as her own, and deemed legitimate, their
mothers rather lose than acquire respect by the parentage. The
mutual inspection of dresses in the boudoir having ended, the visit-
ors were next conducted to what they supposed to be the mandarin’s
apartment, the great room of the house. Tere they found a sofa,
a covered table, and two chairs, all European, a broad but very low
carved Chinese bedstead, with heavy blue-silk curtains, and cases
of chemical, photographic, electric, and other scientific apparatus
of European manufacture. ‘Tea was served in French china cups,
first the Engtish breakfast-tea, afterward the real Chinese beverage,
which has the exquisite aroma of neroli; with it nice cakes of end-
less variety and shapes, made of flour, sugar, and oil. The wife
and one of the women sat at the table with the guests, while the
others busied themselves in sending in the different courses of the
entertainment, which were served by young girls. The Chinese
ladies, with their own hands, favored their guests with cigarettes
made of Turkish tobacco, while they themselves used long, massive,
silver pipes. The smoke was inhaled through water, and invariably
blown out of the nose. Being well provided with interpreters, the
visitors tried to induce conversation. The Chinese ladies answered
nothing, but laughed at every thing the guests said. They then
leavored to accommodate themselves to their entertainers, and
poke to them as to children, but with fittle more success. The
mandarin improved the opportunity to express his admiration for
European customs, Te thanked the ladies for the honor of their
visit, and then showed them all the other apartments of the house.
These have only sfone floors, and the rout ire without furnit re,
He even conducted them to bis opium-smoking room for guests,
with its carefully prepared kang and pillows for reclining upon
when the delicious intoxication Comes on, The ladies, of COUPSO,
12
166 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
did not indulge. The mandarin informed them that he does not
| ! . with red-and-ye
practise it, and on this occasion the use of the room was lost. The . |
corridors, one al
andari jing a proficient in photography, displays pictures of'
miuindarin, being a | | graphy, displays ] es of through crooke
lars, in and out
two narrow ares
combination of' s
Having finis|
and dingy mansi
legation at six in
nh
iy,
a) 0
—s
ah LN
YANG-FANG'S AMOKING-ROOM
his wife and handmaidens throughout the house. In one room
there is a disorderly collection of Chinese books.
In going through the maze of apartments, the ladies, hearing the
loud chirping of a cricket, stopped. Thereupon one of the women
brought out a white-silk bag from her pocket, and took from it a
s |
small, exqnisitely-carved bamboo-box, and, opening it, showed us he:
pet cricket, which closely resembles the American grasshopper. ‘The
fivhting of crickets is a favorite amusement of the Chinese ladies,
A rather ough cast-iron English pump, standing against the
wall, attracted the attention of the visitors, and they inquired. its
use. The mandarin said, “ It is set wp to extinguish accidental tire,
and [ put the women wider it when they quarrel.” The women
evidently looked upon it with disgust.
The house consists of no less than twenty distinct buildings,
A CHINESE MANSION,
with red-and-yellow verandas, all connected by two very irregular
corridors, one above the other, which turn and twist up and down
through crooked little staircases, under arches, around square pil-
lars, in. and out of all sorts of dark holes and corners. There are
two narrow areas, Which pretend to be gardens, with a grotesque
combination of shrubbery and rock-work.
Having finished the exploration of this quaint, inconvenient,
and dingy mansion, the visitors took their leave, and reached the
jegation at six in the evening.
yoom
1e the
omen
wm ita
us her
The
lies.
st the
“acd its
al tire, CHINESE GATEWAY.
yoreln
dings,
CHAPTER VIII.
RESIDENCE IN PEKING (Continued).
The Decay of China.—The Temple of Heaven.—The Temple of the Earth.—The Tom.
ple of Buddha.—The Chinese Bonzes.—The Temple of Confucius.—The Religion
of China.—A Pleasant Reunion.—The Birds of Peking. —An Official Dilemma—
Interview with Wan-Siang.—lInfluence of Burlingame,
November 10th—We are inclined to think that, while every
other nation in the world is advancing toward a higher plane of
civilization, China is not merely stationary, but is actually going
backward and downward. Is this decline of China a result of the
imperfect development of religious truth? The Chinese remain
now as thcv were five thousand years ago, materialists. The)
worship the heavens, they worship the earth, the sun, and th
moon, the planets, and the ocean, besides a multitude of other
natural objects and forces. They worship, more than any other
creature, their ancestors, who are created beings even if they have
an existence aiter death. Even the philosophy and morals of Con-
fucius have left the Chinese sentiment of his teachings not. les:
material than before. The Chinese have expressed this materialism
in erecting great temples—the Temple of Ieaven, the Temple of
the Earth, and the Temple of the Moon. To the material heaven
they ascribe all power, and from it they claim that the emperor, as
. . . e WO?
vicegerent, derives all authority. As Ifeaven made not only China,
but the whole world, so the emperor as vicegerent not only govern:
the empire, but is rightful ruler of the whole earth. The Temp!
of ITeaven, in Pe
or, if there is su
national one—mx
isa national chm
of France, or St.
China what Solo
stands in an enck
dome, typical of
cular altar consist
and twenty feet, t
diameter, In thi
by that ceremony
ment of the who
drapery of the ski
south of Peking, :
in dependence be
Heaven, invoking
ings in peace. D
similar though les
Dressed in red 1
the Sun, and in pi
A high, embar
imperial palace, in
When the empero
bine car, which is
The temple is hek
by the Mohammec
the foreign ministe
profaning the tem
sclves, is so great t
Not long ago, how
over which some al
to explore, thinkin
that breach. On
has sold all the in
into decay. We
Tem-
livion
ua—
very
eof
oing
the
pein
They
thi
ther
other
le ol
envell
‘hina.
yvern
THE
TEMPLE OF
HEAVEN. 169
of ILeaven, in Peking, is therefore, preéminently, the imperial one ;
or, if there is such a thing as a sense of nationality in China, the
national one—more national than Westminster Abbey or St. Paul’s
isa national church of England, or Notre-Dame a national church
of France, or St. Peter’s of Italy. The Temple of Heaven is to
China what Solomon’s Temple was to the people ot Judea. It
stands in an enclosed area of six hundred acres. Its lofty porcelain
(ome, typical of heaven, has the azure tint of the sky. Its cir-
cular altar consists of three stages or stories, the lower one hundred
and twenty feet, the second ninety feet, and the third sixty feet in
diameter, In this Temple of Heaven the emperor is crowned, and
by that ceremony assumes, as vicegerent of Heaven, the govern-
ment of the whole earth. He is dressed in blue, imitating the
drapery of the skies, and faces the south, because China chiefly lies
south of Peking, and the rest of the world is supposed to be lying
in dependence beyond it. Here he makes annual sacrifices to
lleaven, invoking its protection of the empire in war, and its bless-
ings in peace. Dressed in yellow, the color of the earth, he offers
similar though less frequent sacrifices at the Temple of the Earth.
Dressed in red robes, he makes similar homage in the Temple of
the Sun, and in pale white in the Temple of the Moon.
A high, embanked road, once grandly paved, leads from the
imperial palace, in the “ Forbidden City,” to the Temple of Heaven.
When the emperor visits this temple, he is seated in a yellow-and-
blue car, which is drawn over that road by six white elephants.
The temple is held as sacred by the Chinese as the Caaba at Mecca
by the Mohammedans. Mr. Seward was desirous to visit it. AI]
the foreign ministers assured him that the popular prejudice against
profaning the temple, even by the intrusion of the Chinese them-
selves, is so great that no ministry could dare open it to a foreigner.
Not long ago, however, there was a place broken in the outer wall,
over which some adventurous travellers have entered. We set out
to explore, thinking it possible we might effect an entrance through
that breach, On the way we took notice that the present regency
has sold all the imperial elephants, and that the stables are falling
into decay. We found the imperial avenue in ruins, so that no
170 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
elephant-ear or other vehicle could be driven over it. We made
our way on foot and in chairs, Arriving opposite the temple area,
we discovered that, although the breach in the wall had been closed,
. . . re Mita « 7
a gate at the front was open, a janitor standing by it. This seem-
ine a propitious sign, we left the avenue, and directed our steps
ing a proj gn,
thither. The janitor, seeing us approach, closed the gate, and re-
tired, certainly out of sight, but we thought not out of hearing,
We had interpreters ready of speech and skilful to negotiate, but
no inducement that we offered, either moral or pecuniary, could
avail to bring back the lost custodian. This was only one more
renewal of the experience which other members of the party had
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN.
for several days. More disappointed than chagrined, we crossed
the avenue, to a gate opposite the Temple of Heaven, which opens
upon the same area with the Temple of Agriculture. A long
argument ensuec
custodian. It en
On inquiry, how
involved the prix
of prepayment of
The enclosure
dred acres. Cust
year to this templ
the occasion of |
gerent of Heaven
seed, and implor
These functions kL
be delegated, and
minority of the e1
years of age. Sey
last monarch, the
ruin, such as are
agricultural fairs.
A large portio
a growth of more
the roads are over
thorn made fearfu
continually on ou
half'an acre is a
trade and a staire:
On ceremonial oc
platform under a ¢
from his palanquiy
opposite, at a dist
occupied by the i
emperor leaves th
by his family and
distant, which ma
the inner wall of
it isa throne, the
Ove
celebration,
he.
but
uld
ore
had
yssed
pens
long
THE TEMPLE OF AGRICULTURE, 71
argument ensued between our interpreter, Dr. Williams and the
custodian, It ended by his taking half'a dollar in Chinese * cash.”
On inquiry, however, we found that the difficulty was not one that
involved the privilege of entering the temple, but only a question
of prepayment of the tee.
The enclosure of the Temple of Agriculture contains four hun-
dred acres, Custom requires that the emperor shall come once a
year to this temple, with the same magnificent demonstration as on
‘the occasion of his visits to the Temple of Heaven, and, as vice-
gerent of Heaven, shall break the earth with a plough, sow it with
seed, and implor’ propitious rain and sunshine, and plentiful harvest.
These functions being celestial, the right to perform them cannot
be delegated, and so they are for the present suspended during the
minority of the emperor, The present emperor is yet only thirteen
years of age. Several years having elapsed since the death of the
last monarch, the temple and its appurtenances exhibit neglect and
ruin, such as are not likely to occur on the show-grounds of our
agricultural fairs.
A large portion of the grounds is covered with cypress-groves,
a growth of more than five hundred years. The grounds and even
the roads are overrun with coarse, rank grass and weeds. The wild-
thorn made fearful havoe with our clothes, and we required to be
continually on our guard against nettles. In an open square of
half an acre is a circular platform of stone, with a marble balus-
trade and a staircase, which is guarded by the figure of a dragon.
On ceremonial occasions, a throne is placed in the centre of this
hits
oO
5
platform under a gorgeous blue canopy. Ilere the emperor ali
from his palanquin, and takes his seat in solitary pomp. Directly
opposite, at a distance of thirty feet, is a similar platform which is
occupied by the imperial family. Proclamation being made, the
emperor leaves the throne, and makes a solemn progress, followed
by his family and ministers, to a temple some two hundred feet
distant, which may be eighty feet square and fifty feet high ; against
the inner wall of this temple a dais is raised twenty fect, and upon
it is a throne, the same which the late emperor occupicd at the last
celebration. Over the throne, in large characters, is this legend:
a eS Seer ee
V. Y of \ :
09 8 4 2K Se
“oy, s yy | \ a 6& P,
Y aoa N74 Ws, ‘. <& <*
Vy ¥ < .¢
By eS
+ EEE -
"ied EE EE ms
2 ti nea a | a:
ai © oll <i) op ar
fs I I 3 BES
=u ee EAS
S\ Us
HGF Me N
\ G A\ IS U-~
QPF G Is NN
QPF a> “\ \ ie fn, yy —~NN
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
172
oa bal on oa ‘
“We praise the God who taught men to sow, and who gives them
the harvest.” ee
Altars with vases surround the throne. When the emperor has
been seated for a time, he rises, and, standing erect, lifts his hands
in adoration, and amid the clouds of incense invokes the blessings
needful for his people. This part of the ceremony conclnded, the
emperor then walks to a distant enclosure of perhaps cee
Here, upon another throne, he is attended by the imperial family
and the whole court. New proclamation being made, the emperor
advances into the field, and with his own hand on the plough drives
it until one acre of soil is upturned. This cones ne scatters the
seed. Princes of the imperial family and distinguished members
of the court follow, and in like manner plough and sow me remain-
der of the field. After this, the emperor, with his fanily; court,
and ministers, repairs to a platform on the opposite side of the field,
TABLET MALL.
T
on which is |
makes a bur
the God of 4
Having |
of the Tem
edifice, on t
ot the Win
Grass, and th
ward condue
in which plac
arched passag
they are bute
pared for the
offerings are ]
in which, after
mals, and all t
ants engaged }
On our wa
canopied orato
a dwarf, the o
stature. The
is copper-color¢
white. The ce
can black. TT]
This si
fierce, wooden
and barrel, cor
Three thou
mighty spake d
on the western
Lord thy God.
shalt not make
thing that is i
that is in the we
down to them,
jealous God.”
dians.
them
or has
hands
ssings
d, the
acres,
family
nperor
drives
rs the
2>mbers
emain-
, court,
e field,
THE EMPEROR MAKES BURNT-OFFERINGS. 173
on which is erected a large altar. Here, in the presence of all, he
makes a burnt-offering of oxen, sheep, goats, and other animals to
the God of Agriculture.
Having surveyed these more prominent places in the area
of the Temple of Agriculture, we next visited a great central
edifice, on the walls of which are tablets dedicated to the God
ot the Winds, the God of Thunder, the God of the Green
Grass, and the God of the Green Stalks of Grain. We were atter-
ward conducted to a sunken place, paved and walled with stone,
in which place the sacrificial animals are kept. We saw here the
arched passage through which they are driven, the yard in which
they are butchered, the immense platform on which they are pre-
pared for the altar, the huge furnaces and kettles in which the
offerings are burned, and finally the oven, as large as a city bakery,
in which, after the sacrifice is completed, all the refuse of the ani-
mals, and all the garments and vestments of the priests and attend-
ants engaged in the sacrifice, are reduced to ashes.
On our way out of the temple, we stopped before a curious ivy-
canopied oratory, within which stand the shrines of three gods, one
a dwarf, the others larger, the three differing in complexion as in
stature. The right figure, the God of the Sea, bears a trident, and
is copper-colored. The left figure is the God of Rain, and is pure
white. The central figure is the God of Benevolence, and is Afri-
can black. The Chinese divinities are always attended by guar-
dians. This singular group rejoices in the protection of a huge,
fierce, wooden soldier, armed with a veritable musket, lock, stock,
and barrel, complete.
Three thousand three hundred and sixty years ago, the Al-
mighty spake directly to a portion of the human race then residing
on the western shore of Asia, “these words, saying, I am the
Lord thy God. Thou shalt have no other gods before me. Thou
shalt not make unto thee any graven image or any likeness of any
thing that is in heaven above, or that is in the earth beneath, or
that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt not bow thyseif
down to them, nor serve them; for I the Lord thy God am a
jealous God.”
174 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
The nations which have established themselves between the
Mediterranean shore, on which these words were spoken, and thie
eastern side of the Pacific Ocean, have accepted and obeyed these
awful commands, and have built a common system of civilization
upon them. But the dwellers here on the eastern coast of China
have not accepted either the idea that God is the Creator and
Supreme Director of the Universe, or that he is One God, or that
he is a jealous God.
It is not to be understood, however, that the national mind of
China has made no struggles to lift itself above the dead level of
materialism. We proceeded from the Temple of Agriculture to
visit one which is a monument of such a struggle. This is the
Te.aple of Buddha. The founder of the Buddhist faith did in-
deed reach the sublime truths expounded by Moses, that God
is spiritual, One, and jealous. But he could not hold fast to
that exalted truth pure and simple. That faith, therefore, while
it accepts Buddha as the Supreme Creator of the Universe,
teaches at the same time that, by various processes, occupying
long spaces of time, he becomes and remains incarnate on the
earth. This impersonation, bearing the name of the Grand Lama,
resides in Thibet, veiled from all mortal eyes but a purified and
sacred priesthood, which priesthood has its societies and orders
throughout China and all the East. It is a subject of curious re-
flection that, as, in Europe and America, the nations uniformly
derive their revelations and systems of faith from the East, so, on
the eastern shores and islands of Asia, they with equal confidence
claim to have received their religious revelations from the West.
The Buddhists have two great temples at Peking—one in the
Tartar city, the other in the Chinese. It was the former which we
visited, It consists of several immense edifices, which in the seven-
teenth century were the residence of an emperor, who becoming an
adherent to that religion surrendered his palace to the community
of Buddhist bonzes, and dedicated it to that form of worship. The
principal structure, built of brick and stone, is capable of holding
three thousand persons; the roof is supported with columns of cedar
brought from Birmah, eighty feet high. A gigantic wooden statue
of Buddha to
while it leaves
the huge, jet-]
tion of the sec
incarnation, ei
of trials and
apostles, carve
great idol, gaz
tude of divine
god anc! each «
spiritual expre
are simply in
which support:
of these figur
Buddha, It |
that this idea,
that of the M
early inculcatic
is remarkable.
bronze image «
which, on exa
the Virgin Ma
bright yellow s
Admiral R
arrested our a
against the im
—a celestial fi,
into a fiery ab
so like the con
have been a
There are a tl
temple. They
they wear a y
appear in the 1.
contact with th
to have no effi
n the
1d the
these
ization
China
yr and
yr that
ind of
vel of
ure to
is the
lid in-
it God
fast to
» while
Liverse,
upying
on the
Lama,
od and
orders
us re-
formly
so, on
dence
est.
in the
ich we
seven-
hing an
munity
. The
iolding
f cedar
statue
THE TEMPLE OF BUDDHA. 175
of Buddha towers from the floor to the roof. Its carved drapery,
while it leaves the form distinct, conceals the entire person except
the huge, jet-black face, fingers and toes. According to the tradi-
tion of the sect, the living Buddha in Thibet had, at the time of his
incarnation, eighteen most saintly apostles who endured all manner
of trials and worked all manner of miracles. These cighteen
apostles, carved in wood, sit cross-legged in a circle around the
great idol, gazing at the soles of their feet, supposed to be an atti-
tude of divine contemplation. Vases of incense stand before the
god and each of the saints. The images are so far from having any
spiritual expression, that the faces of all, including that of Buddha,
are simply inane. All around the temple are shrines, each of
which supports a diminutive female figure carved in bronze. Each
of these figures represents the virgin mother of the incarnate
Buddha. It is not without probability that theologians suppose
that this idea, now universally held by the Buddhists, analogous to
that of the Madonna, is a modern innovation derived from some
early inculcations of the Christian Church. Certainly the similarity
isremarkable. One of our fellow-travellers at Shanghai bought a
bronze image of the mother of Buddha, with an infant in its arms,
which, on examiuation, we concluded to be an antique figure of
the Virgin Mary. These statuettes to-day are carefully draped in
bright yellow silk, the thermometer having fallen last night to 32°.
Admiral Rodgers will verify another curious ornament which
arrested our attention in this temple. It is a picture which hangs
against the inner wall, and presents a view of the Last Judgment
—a celestial figure pronouncing sentence, the doomed descending
into a fiery abyss, the blessed rising into regions of felicity. It is
so like the conceptions of the middle ages, that the picture might
have been a study for Michael Angelo in the Sistine Chapel.
There are a thousand bonzes in the monastery attached to this
temple. They surrounded us on our way through it. Though
they wear a yellow uniform, they are ragged and unclean, and
appear in the last stage of mendicity. We shrank from too close a
contact with them, They are ignorant, idle, and lazy. They seem
to have no efficient ecclesiastical superior, and to be amenable to
176 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
no public opinion. In these respects they contrast very disadvan.
tageously with the cleanly, neat, and courteous bonzes whom we
saw in Japan. Although a daily ritual service is read in the temple,
it everywhere exhibits the saddest evidences of neglect and dilapi-
dation.
After so broad a study of the practices of idolatry, we were now
prepared for the more pleasing ones of rationalistic institutions,
Escaping from the mendicant throng, who followed us to the outer
THE TEMPLE OF CONFUCIUS.
gate of the Buddhist monastery, we proceeded to the Temple of
Confucius. It is about as spacious as the Senate-hall in Washing.
ton. After having been so long bedazzled and bewildered by the
Buddhist and other pagan temples in China, it was not without
pleasant surprise that we found the great hall, which we now en-
tered, unique in design and simple in decoration. There is here
neither idol n
above, or the e
ing to bow do
nor candelabra
the rear wall, ¢
which is engra
architrave of tl
eral emperors,
temple was bu:
Th
“The hol
“ Tis virtv
py of Heaven
Fune-Cut,
“ TTis hol
Around tl
eminent disci
Palace Hall, y
from all parts
amination Chi
dvan-
mM we
mple,
dilapi-
e Now
itions,
outer
ple of
ishing-
by the
vithout
OW eil-
is here
THE TEMPLE OF CONFUCIUS.
177
neither idol nor image, the likeness of any thing in the heaven
above, or the earth beneath, or in the waters under the earth, noth-
jing to bow down to or worship. There is neither altar, nor vase,
nor candelabra. Instead of all these, there is, in a large niche in
the rear wall, a plain pedestal, which bears a modest red tablet, on
which is engraved, in letters of gold, the name “Confucius.” The
architrave of the niche bears seven legends, the homages of the sev-
eral emperors, of the present dynasty, who have reigned since the
temple was built. These legends are as follows:
By Kaa-Kivne.
“The holy one combined the great perfections.”
By Kane-H1.
“ The leader and patron of all nations.”
By Yune-Cuine.
“ Mankind has seen none like him.”
By Koen-Lina.
“The equal of Heaven and Earth.”
By Tar-Kwane.
“The holy one who assists in harmonizing the seasons.”
By Hren-F ona.
“ TTis virtue is all the virtue which can exist between the cano-
py of Heaven above and the Earth below.”
Fune-Cnt, the present boy-emperor, contributes this :
‘“‘ TTis holiness is divine; Heaven cannot circumscribe it.”
Around the sides of the room are arranged tablets dedicated to
eminent disciples of Confucius. Near the temple is the great
Palace Hall, where the annual competitive examination of pupils,
from all parts of the empire, is held. The construction of the Ex-
anination Chamber is at once convenient and elegant. We are
ah
| EEC
not sure that it
amination Hall
a plain throne
the purpose of
iners, with ben
The studies ar
regarded as the
riously committ
this hall with tl
of massive gar
The square mor
Confucius, the t
tions within the
apartments for
bears, in gover
(ISIS Eat
THE ACADEMY. 179
not sure that it would be thought exceptional for Lyceum or Ex-
amination Hall at Yale or Harvard, It has a raised platform, with
a plain throne, for the emperor, who annually attends here for
the purpose of conferring the degrees, and has chairs for the exam-
iners, with benches, raised in semicircular rows, for the candidates.
The studies are confined to the writings of Confucius, which are
regarded as the classics of China, and every word of which is labo-
IMAGE OF CONFUCIUS.
riously committed to memory. A long, covered corridor connects
this hall with the temple last described. This corridor has a row
of massive granite columns. We could not stop to count them.
The square monoliths are completely covered with the writings of
Confucius, the text being the prescribed standard for all republica-
tions within the empire. The grounds contain tweive thousand
apartments for professors and scholars. The entire institution
bears, in government language, the name of “academy.” We
180 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
were sorry to find all parts of the academy covered with dust and
sand, and exhibiting evidence of much neglect, though not dilapi-
dated like the temples.
Open any Chinese book, ask any Chinese statesman or scholar,
and you will learn that Confucius is worshipped. Push the inquiry
further, and you will learn that he is worshipped not as a deity,
but as a person of divine perfection. The absence of the custom.
ary symbols of worship in the Temple of Confucius confirms this
view. The Chinese ambassadors at Washington refused to recognize
one of their young countrymen who had been educated at Fairfax
Theological Seminary for the Christian ministry. Ie pleaded, as
an excuse for his conversion, the divinity of Christ. They replied:
“Why do we want another Christ? We have a Christ of our own,
Confucius.” A Chinaman, whom we met here, when pressed by
one of our missionaries to accept the gospel of Jesus Christ as the
gift of God to man, replied: “ Why is not a Christ born in China
as good as a Christ born in the United States ?”
This national habit of comparing Confucius with the Saviour
undoubtedly results from the similarity, in many respects, between
the teachings of Confucius and the Cnristian morals, The Chinese
reformer teaches no dogmatic theology, either of materialism or
mysticism. THe tolerates ali such, however, while his code of mor-
als and manners is adapted to all classes and conditions of society,
and to all forms of religious faith. The worshippers of heaven and
earth, the sun, moon, and stars, can accept the system of Confi-
cius, because it does iiot interfere with any principles of their own.
The Buddhists entertain no jealousy of it. It fails, however, to
regenerate the empire; it is “of the earth, earthy.” “As is the
earthy, such are they also that are earthy, and as is the heavenly,
such are they also that are heavenly.” The motive of duty to our
fellow-men must have its most effective spring in the sense of duty
to God. No human being can have that sense, unless he has
accepted the truth that God is one, and that he is a Spirit to be
worshipped in spirit and in truth.
The day closed with an excursion through the imperial city,
and under the walls of the “prohibited” city. The grounds at-
tached to the
lawn and gro
due care, and
indeed in Chit
November
and all the fo
at the British
The imperi
the waste plac
titude of canal;
of the Chinese
every morning
out on their 1
is blackened
The crow is no
He is taught :
Thrushes, as 1a
abound, and g:
pigeon, everyw
whirling throu;
shrill and vari
were a long tim
belonged, and
sounds. They
delicately faster
feathers. Ma
most common {4
tions. Anothe
prey. Howeve
harps is sufficie
any economical
We have fre
carrier. He is
swift-footed Gov
reward is sos
1
st and
lilapi-
holar,
iquiry
deity,
istom-
is this
ognize
‘airtax
led, as
plied :
r own,
sed by
as the
China
saviour
tween
shinese
ism or
bf mor-
bociety,
en and
Contu-
r own.
ver, to
is the
avenly,
to our
pf duty
he has
to be
1 city,
nds at-
THE PARADISE OF BIRDS. 181
tached to the imperial palaces have an exquisite arrangement of
Jawn and grove, of hill and lake. These grounds arecultivated with
due care, and gave us the only scene we have found in Peking, or
indeed in China, exempt from the ravages of decay and desolation.
November 11th.—We met, last evening, the diplomatic society,
and all the foreigners residing in Peking, in a pleasant reunion
at the British legation.
The imperial parks and gardens, the groves around the temples,
the waste places made by sieges and fires, not to speak of the mul-
titude of canals, fit Peking to be a paradise of birds, and the taste
of the Chinese people favors their preservation. We are awakened
every morning by the cawing of the foraging army of crows going
out on their march to the cornfields outside the city. The sky
is blackened at sunset with the regiments returning to bivouac.
The crow is not here, however. as among us, regarded with dislike.
He is taught solemn exercises, cunning acts, and winning ways.
Thrushes, as large as our robins, and sparrows especially beautiful,
abound, and game is more plentiful than poultry at home. The
pigeon, everywhere a favorite of man, is especially so here. Fiocks,
whirling through the air at all hours of the day, arrest notice by
shrill and varied notes, which they never utter elsewhere. We
were a long time perplexed as to what particular species these birds
belonged, and in what way they produced these not unmusical
sounds. ‘They are reared in dovecotes, and a light reed-whistle is
delicately fastened on the back of the bird, at the root of the tail-
feathers. Many reasons are assigned for this invention. The
most common one is, that it frightens the crows in their depreda-
tions. Another, thet they protect the flocks against the birds of
prey. However this may be, the music produced on these olian
harps is sufficient to account for the practice, without looking for
any economical reason.
We have frequently recognized the pigeon in his office of letter-
carrier. He is the only pestman employed in China, except the
swift-footed Government courier, whose toil is so great while his
reward is so small. What a change must come over the empire,
13
182 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
when this postman gives place to the railroad, the express, and the
electric telegraph! We have not seen the magpie domesticated,
but he keeps perpetual ward in the palaces, castles, and gates,
While we have been studying the birds of Peking, some mem-
bers of our party were making a new advance upon the Temple of
Heaven. What they saw must be recorded, less for the forbidden
knowledge which was gained than for the moral reflections which
it suggests. Mr, Coles, a pupil in the American legation, conduct-
_ eda party of four, two of whom were ladies, along the high, paved
road in the direction of the temple. At a distance from the gate
he left them and threw himself into a mean, closely-covered mule-
cart, in which he made his way unsuspected along the base of the
wall, until he reached the central gate, from which we had before
been repulsed. Emerging from the cart, he rushed into the open
gate-way, and planted himself by the side of the stern janitor, who
requested the unwelcome visitor to retire, and attempted to close
the gate. But the visitor stood firm, all the while beckoning to the
distant party to come up. The custodian now betrayed a con-
sciousness that he did “ perceive here a divided duty.” In any ease
it was a duty to save the great altar from profanation by native or
foreigner, especially the latter. Secondly, since the Tien-Tsin mas-
sacre the Government has strenuously commanded that in no case
shall offence be given to Christians. The custodian made the best he
eculd of the dilemma, and yielding to the resistance which he could
not overcome without violence, he piteously implored from the in-
truder a douceur, by way of indemnity for the bastinado which
the Government was sure to inflict as a punishment for infidelity at
his post. Terms were liberally adjusted, and the party went suc-
cessfully through the temple, penetrating even the holiest of its
holies. The janitor hurried them forward, his fears of the bas-
tinado increasing with every minute of delay. His terror became
so great that, when they had completed the examination and
returned to the gate, he demanded a larger sum for letting them
out than he had before received for letting them in.
To what a humiliating condition has the empire of Kublai-Khan
fallen, when its severeign dare not suffer the foreigner to enter the
great natione
forbid him fr
While the
of the templ
that even in |
places we hay
Wan-Sian
Minister of ]
Prince Kung,
Government
tions with tl
procured fron
“Law of Nat
the imperial (
in instituting
timated, wher
official duties
and the duty
Under these
with the cabir
him in his ill]
house. This
on rose-colore
“T have lo
many years |]
exceedingly r
Since you ha
still more desi
myself, an old
a leave of absd
ment that I
you visited tl
your note of
trouble of co
heart, and w
small, and its
d the
rated,
mem-
le of
idden
Which
iduct-
paved
e gate
mule-
of the
before
2 open
r, who
» close
to the
a con-
y case
tive or
n mas-
ho case
est he
could
the in-
which
elity at
nt suec-
of its
ie bas-
ecame
yn and
them
i-Khan
iter the
WAN-SIANG’S LETTER. 183
great national temple, through fear of domestic insurrection, nor to
forbid him from entering, through fear of foreign war !
While the visitors confirm the descriptions of the magnificence
of the temple which we have before mentioned, they assure us also
that even in the Temple of Ileaven, as in all the other edifices and
places we have visited, neglect and decay are indescribable.
Wan-Siang is president of the Board of Rites, and principal
Minister of Foreign Affairs. Acting in concert with the regent
Prince Kung, Wan-Siang was the master-spirit who led the Chinese
Government up to the resolution of entering into diplomatic rela-
tions with the Western powers. It was he who solicited and
procured from Mr. Seward at Washington a copy of Wheaton’s
“Law of Nations,” and caused it to be translated and adopted by
the imperial Government. Ile, more than any other, was efficient
in instituting the Burlingame mission. As has been before in-
timated, when we arrived he was under a leave of absence from
official duties for one year, on the double ground of his ill-health
and the duty of mourning for that period the death of his mother.
Under these circumstances Mr. Seward, the day after his audience
with the cabinet, addressed a note to Wan-Siang, sympathizing with
him in his illness, and proposing to visit the minister at his own
house. This note brought an autograph letter, beautifully written
on rose-colored Chinese official paper, as follows:
“T have long heard of your excellency’s great fame, which for
many years has been cherished by all nations, and I myself have
exceedingly respected you and longed for a better acquaintance.
Since you have come to our country, its high authorities will be
still more desirous of seeing and conversing with you. But, as for
myself, an old malady having returned, I have been obliged to ask
a leave of absence, and it was an occasion of regret and disappoint-
ment that I was unable to meet you on the 7th instant, when
you visited the foreign office. I have had the honor to receive
your note of yesterday, in which you propose to yourself the great
trouble of coming to see me, an honor which I shall engrave in my
heart, and write on my bones. But my dwelling is mean and
small, and its condition would, I fear, be offensive to you, which
184 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
would be a matter of deep regret to me. I have, therefore, set
apart the 11th instant to go and call on you at one o’clock in
the afternoon, if my health will in anywise enable me to do so.
We can then converse at length. I shall be pleased to receive a
reply, and I avail myself of this occasion to wish that happiness
may every day be yours.” °
The letter bore no signature, but enclosed within was the writ-
ter card of Wan-Siang.
At twelve another autograph card of Wan-Siang was delivered
to Mr. Seward, as an announcement of the minister’s approach.
He arrived at the moment, in a green sedan-chair, with two
mounted attendants and four footmen. He is a dignified and
grave person, and he went through the ceremony of introduction
to Mr. Seward with ease and politeness. Ie wore a rich dress
of silks and furs, and 1 mandarin’s hat with a peacock’s feather
and a coral ball on the top. Mr. Seward and Mr. Low sat down
with Wan-Siang, Dr. Williams acting as interpreter. Wan-Siang
said :
“T have been detained at my home one whole year by ill-
health. I should not have come out from it now, and perhaps I
should never have come out from it again, but for my desire
to make your acquaintance. I have always known you as a firm
and constant friend of a just and liberal policy, on the part of
the Western nations toward China. Iam surprised to see you so
vigorous after so laborious a public service. What may be your
honorable age?”
Mr. Sewarp answered: “ Sixty-nine.”
Wan-Srane exclaimed: “Sixteen years older than I, and yet so
much stronger and more elastic! You are going from your own
country around the world, while I, alas! am unable to keep about
my own proper business at home.”
Mr. Sewarp said: “Mr. Burlingame’s letters and conversa-
tions made me well acquainted with your character and your saga-
cious and effective statesmanship.”
Wan-S1ana: “We deplore the death of Mr. Burlingame. It is
a loss to China that he died before accomplishing his mission.
Mr. Burlinga:
embassy was |
Mr. Sewa
its provision:
courts. They
met Chi-Taje:
the treaty ha
Mr. Burlingar
China and the
In this view
honorable fam
Wan-Sranc
mon interest |
be free to spea
Mr. Srwar
Western natio
and consuls, w
cign nations a
be not foreign«
Wan-SIan
be educated he
qualified for tl
Me. Sewar
long. Chinese
and customs, ij
they can acqu
already largel:
interests of C
for want of C
ing to the eug
tion and prot
oppression. 4
there is no re
ern nations, ag
lects the exch
at home.”
Writ-
ered
pach.
two
and
ction
dress
ather
Jown
Siang
y ill-
aps I
lesire
t firm
rt of
ou so
your
vet s0
r own
about
versa-
saga-
It is
ssion.
INTERVIEW WITH WAN-SIANG.
185
Mr. Burlingame wrote to us from the United States how much the
embassy was indebted to you for its great success.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Before the treaty was signed at Washington,
its provisions were confidentially submitted to the European
courts. They gave us assuran es that they would accept them. I
met Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen at Shanghai. They told me that
the treaty had been virtually accepted by the European states.
Mr. Burlingame’s mission was therefore a success. He has brought
China and the West into relations of mutual friendship and accord.
In this view his death was not premature. He has raised an
honorable fame on a firm foundation.”
Wan-Srane: “ Does any subject occur to you which is of com-
mon interest to China and the United States, on which you would
be free to speak ?”
Mr. Sewarp: “T think China ought to reciprocate with the
Western nations by sending to them permanent resident ministers
and consuls, who should be of equal rank with those which the for-
cign nations accredit here. They ought, moreover, in all cases, to
be not foreigners, but native Chinese.”
Wan-Stane: “We shall send such agents so soon as they can
be educated here in the Western sciences and languages, so as to be
qualified for their trusts.”
Mr. Sewarp: “Better that they go unqualified than wait too
long. Chinese experts will learn Western sciences, languages, laws,
and customs, in the United States or in Lurope, much faster than
they can acquire them here. Moreover, Chinese immigration is
already largely flowing into the United States. The rights and
interests of Chinese immigrants are likely to suffer neglect there
for want of Chinese diplomatic and consular agents, who, accord-
ing to the customs of nations, are expected to invoke the atten-
tion and protection of the Government, in cases of injustice or
oppression. Again, there is no accord nor friendship where
there is no reciprocity. China is now regarded, by ai! the West-
em nations, as not merely unsocial, but hostile, because she neg-
lects the exchange of international courtesies abroad as well as
at home.”
186 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Wan-Srane: “These are my own opinions. I have always en-
deavored to bring them into practice.”
Mr. Sewarp: “There is another point upon which I would
like to speak freely, if I should not be thought speaking in an un-
friendly way. I think I know the temper of the European states,
Chinese ministers are accorded a personal reception by the sover-
eigns of those nations. The Chinese emperor refuses a personal
reception to the foreign ministers here. Thus, the Chinese minis-
ter is admitted to a direct acquaintance with the President of the
United States, with the Queen of England, and with the Emperor
of Russia. A minister from either of those countries, on arriving
here, learns that the Emperor of China is too sacred a person to be
looked upon. This, to be sure, is only a question of ceremony and
etiquette ; but, my dear sir, questions of ceremony and ctiquette
between nations often become the most serious and dangerous of
all international complications.”
Wan-S1ana bowel courteously, but made no reply.
Mr. Low, interposing, said: “ The subject is a delicate one just
now, but we are sure that Wan-Siang is the last statesman in China
to overiook it.”
Mr. Sewarp: “Are the students, such as I saw yesterday at
the Temple of Confucius, and who are the only allowed candidates
for official employments in China, instructed in modern Chinese
sciences, or are they taught the ancient classics only ?”
Wan-Srane: “Only the latter. I have attempted to procure
the establishment of an imperial college, in which modern sciences
and languages shall be taught by foreign professors. For a while
I thought that I should succeed. But the effort has failed, and has
brought me under deep reproach and general suspicion.”
Mr. Sewarpv: “ This ought not to discourage you. Every wise
minister at some time falls under temporary reproach and unjust
suspicion. Public opinion, in every country, is a capricious sea.
Whoever attempts to navigate it is liable to be tossed about by
storms.”
Wan-Stana: “It is, as you say, indeed unavoidable. A states-
man stunds on a hill. THe looks farther in all directions than the
people, who are
the course they
is misdirecting
from which he
ment. But thi
late for the stat
Wan-Siang
who is warned
upon Prince I
ment in failing
still to do so >
tell into lament
himself despon
exchange of ot
the painful im
years, of a brok
On inquirin
Seward learned
lege which he
that a more he
entertained, no
Wan-Siang’s as
If we have
our stay, certai
streets have be
more cheerful,
ninis-
f the
peror
Iving
to be
y and
uette
1s of
> just
Shina
lay at
dates
inese
ocure
ences
while
d has
Wise
injust
} sea,
ut by
tates-
n the
A DEPRESSED STATESMAN. 187
people, who are standing at the base, can see. When he points out
the course they ought to take for safety, they are suspicious that he
is misdirecting them. When they have at last gained the summit
from which he pointed the way, they then correct their misjudg-
ment. But this, although it may be sufficient for them, comes too
late for the statesman.”
Wan-Siang seemed to avoid contested questions, like a sick man
who is warned against excitement. Ile turned the conversation
upon Prince Kung’s admiration for Mr. Seward, and disappoint-
ment in failing to mect him at the foreign office, and his purpose
still to do so when recovered from his illness. Wan-Siang then
fell into lamentations over his own prostrate health, and expressed
himself despondingly concerning the future of China. After an
exchange of courtesies he withdrew, leaving on Mr. Seward’s mind
the painful impression that Wan-Siang would die, before many
years, of a broken heart.
On inquiring the cause of Wan-Siang’s mental depression, Mr.
Seward learned that it is due to the defeat of his plans for the col-
lege which he had mentioned. It is only just, however, to say
that a more hopeful view of that great and beneficent project is
entertained, not only by intelligent foreigners residing here, but by
Wan-Siang’s associates in the Government.
If we have exhausted the sights and wonders of Peking during
our stay, certainly the city seems unconscious of it. The wretched
streets have become a little less muddy, and the general aspect
more cheerful, than when we came here ten days ago.
CHAPTER IX.
VISIT TO THE GREAT WALL.
Preparations for the Trip.—Our Vehicies.—The Summer Palace.—Pagodas.—First Nicht
under a Chinese Roof.—A Chinese Tavern.—Approach to the Great Wall._—The
Mongolians.—The Cost of the Wall.—Inquisitive Chinese.—The Second Wall.—The
Ming Tombs.—A Alisguided Mule,
ITyden, November 12th.—Peking is on the parallel of 39° 54”,
The point of the Great Wall which we propose to visit is in a direct
north line about forty miles distant, on an elevation of two thou-
sand feet above the city. This altitude has a climatic effect of nearly
seven degrees of latitude. The climate there may therefore be un.
derstood to be about the same in relation to Peking as the climate
of Lake Superior is to that of New York. We provided against in-
clemency by asupply of furs and braziers. What with our strange
eatskin caps, long foxskin coats, and high white felt boots, we
scarcely claimed to know each other. The obstacles to the excur-
sion have not been over-estimated. They were not, however, of a
political nature, like those which opposed our journey to Peking.
They are chiefly material and local. Our arrangements were made
several days in advance, with Chinese common carriers, for the
necessary litters, carts, mules, donkeys, drivers, and attendants, On
the afternoon of the tenth, we saw with our own eyes a combined
force of men and beasts enter the court ready to be caparisoned
anc. packed during the night to start on the next day, just as soon
as Wan-Siang’s expected visit should be over. It was not, how-
sent for. At n
sick and was sd
At half-past ten
ever, until cigh
only that the 1
tained, but also
day. We acqui
new hour for de
We determi
notwithstanding
birds.” We ro
gathered the da
their customary
yard. At cight
st Nicht
ll.—The
ll._—The
9° 54’,
direct
thou-
nearly
be un.
limate
nst in-
trange
ts, we
excur-
r, of a
eking.
made
or the
s, On
Abined
isoned
s soon
, how-
A CHINESE CART. 189
ever, until cight o’clock last night that it was announced to us, not
only that the necessary complement of litters had not been ob-
tained, but also that they could not be procured in the city that
day. We acquiesced with such grace as we could, and appointed a
new hour for departure, namely, six o’clock this morning.
We determined to retire early, Mrs. Low’s ball to the contrary
notwithstanding. In vain was that “net spread in sight of these
birds.” We rose at five o’clock. All the mules that had been
gathered the day before had been taken away during the night to
their customary stables. There was not one animal in the court-
yard. At cight o’clock two mules were lacking, but they had been
CHINESE CART.
sent for. At nine, one of the mules which remained was taken
sick and was sent away to the hospital. At ten, it was replaced.
At half-past ten, the driver fell suddenly ill, and was sent home
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
190
unfit for duty. At noon, after we had been sitting three hours
closely packed in our litters, the great gate opened, and the long
procession, which, though a motley one, was completely orgenized,
The roads we are to travel do not allow the use of
Only imandarins are allowed the privilege of travel.
Inferior persons are by the Board of Rites
moved out.
sedan-chairs.
ling in mule-litters.
TUE LITTER.
confined to the use of the heavy, two-wheeled, close-covered mule-
cart, indulgently called by Mr. Pumpelly “a carriage.” The cara-
van consists of eight covered litters for the less vigorous members
of the party. Each litter is borne by two mules harnessed between
the shafts, one before and one behind the litter. Hach litter has an
extra mule for oveasional service. It has also a driver on foot and
a muleteer on adonkey. Then there are six carts, each drawn by
one mule, and attended by a driver who walks, All the animals
TH
wear tinkling be
whomsoever else
the ostentatious o
was through the ]
the wayside traffi
Every thing to ea
booths, and every
coffins, is made at
at short distances
You see an hourl:
with cramped fec
Occasionally we r
in a sedan-chair, 1
children, heaped :
respectable peopl
gayly dressed, pai
mums, or rosette
pass in the stre
booths and theat
march. We jost]
sions, which, by 1
death; and wedd
finement or deli
tacle. At Ta-tso
yond the gate, w
of the Great Bell
In China, ten
for the entertain
vants in preparin
compared with tl
in a more cleanly
rejoices in one 4
at Peking in the
It is of the ordiy
thirty-six feet in
at the top, adapt
hours
b] long
nized,
use of
travel-
Rites
| mule-
le cara-
embers
etween
has an
ot and
uwn by
wnimals
THE TEMPLE OF THE GREAT BELL. 191
wear tinkling bells, which give warning to all camel-drivers and
whomsoever else it may concern, that a wide berth is required by
the ostentatious occupants of the litters. Our way out of the city
was through the North Gate. It brought in review, as we passed,
the wayside traffic and surcet amusements of this singular people.
Every thing to eat, to drink, and to wear, is prepared and sold in
pooths, and every thing needful in daily life and death, including
coffins, is made and mended there. These booths are interspersed
at short distances with theatres, show-rooms, and gambling-dens.
You see an hourly performance of Punch with a pigtail, and Judy
with cramped fect, thimblerig, harlequin, cards, dice, and magic.
Occasionally we meet a lady “ of the better sort,” closely cushioned
in a sedan-chair, more frequently “other women,” with or without
children, heaped and packed in horrible carts. Only virtuous aud
respectable people are allowed this indulgence. These women are
sayly dressed, painted white and red, and wear large chrysanthe-
mums, or rosettes, in their hair. The very few women whom we
pass in the streets are accounted both vulgar and vicious, The
booths and theatre were not the only obstacles in our line of
march. We jostled against long camel-caravans; funeral-proces-
sions, which, by the affectation of solemnity, made a mockery of
death; and wedding-processions, which, without a pretence to re-
fnement or delicacy, make the marriage ceremony a vulgar spec-
tacle. At Ta-tscon-tsa, a dull and cheerless suburb, two miles be-
yond the gate, we halted for refreshments, at the Buddhist temple
of the Great Bell.
In China, temples and Buddhist monasteries are freely opened
for the entertainment of travellers. Two monks assisted our ser-
vants in preparing lunch. The Temple of the Great Bell is humble
compared with those in the city, but, although much dilapidated, is
ina more cleanly condition than any we have seen in China. It
rejoices in one of eight immense bronze bells which were cast
at Peking in the year 1400 of our era, by the Emperor Yung-Lo.
It is of the ordinary hell-shape, eighteen feet high, with a mouth
thirty-six feet in cireumference. It has a small, circular aperture
at the top, adapted to the apparatus for suspending the bell. It is
192 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
literally covered inside and out with raised texts in very small
Chinese characters, in all numbering, it is claimed, eighty-four
SUNMER PALACE,
thousand. The bell is made to sound by being beaten with a heavy
wooden club.
A further drive of six miles brought us to the Yuen-Min-Yuen,
familiarly called the Emperor’s Summer Palace. Since the time
of the Ming dynasty, Yuen-Min-Yuen was the Versailles of China
until 1860, when it was sacked, plundered, and destroyed, by the
British and French allied armies in their advance on Peking. It
is not in our way now to describe its former glory, or to relate the
story of its catastrophe. We must be content in writing what we
sce and how we see it. The grounds of Yuen-Min-Yuen are an
area of twelve square miles. It once contained thirty extensive
and costly palaces used by the emperor and court. The invaders
related that the architecture, furniture, and embellishments of
CA
Yuen-Min-Yuen,
bination of Orie
CANALS OF THE SUMMER PALACE. 193
Yuen-Min-Yuen, as they found it, were a happy and effective com-
pination of Oriental and Western luxury and clegance. Many
streams, gathered on adjacent
' mountain-slopes, are brought
; i ie am: | Wes into large artificial lakes, and
: thence distributed by deep
and clear canals through the
grounds, and then used equal-
ly for pleasure, navigation,
and irrigation. The canals,
after performing these serv-
ices, unite and flow through
a broad and deep canal into
Peking, where they constitute
the great and picturesque lake
which we have before men-
tioned as the finest ornament
of the imperial city. Whiic
the canals have been built
with excellent masonry, they
are crossed with graceful mar-
ble bridges in various direc-
tions. The fields, meadows,
fl
iS)
4
y
<
me
1
a
a
a
=)
a2
|
a
fe
°
n
a
a
=)
°
cy
o
ta
fof
&
x
)
&
S
=)
i
oe
a
» heavy and lawns, are fertile, but
now in a condition of com-
Yuen, | il pm i i plete neglect and waste. At
ote | | audit | | the centre of the plain a cir-
eonne i tg | Lacuna ty cular rocky islet rises abrupt-
by the i iN 4 an i ly to a height of bro hun
ng. It 1 an 4 dred and fifty feet. This arti-
latadlis ae : mene ficial hill is traced with spiral
chat we Mi vil is a — terraces which fascinate the
1 are an Ae <oes') a| visitor by continually bring-
tensive al ceed All ing into view palaces, pavil-
availers NMA mi. el I ions, pagodas, temples, all
anita: of Ba ! Ml half concealed by hanging
194 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
gardens and roves, which are embellished with fountains, statuary,
and shrines. The summit is crowned with an imperial summer.
house in the Italian style, its wall richly frescoed, and its ‘roof
glistening with blue and yellow porcelain. One of the delights of
Yuen-Min-Yuen was a unigue temple, wrought of polished bronze,
standing on the acclivii .1s islet. We shall never weary of
the Chinese pagoda. One of those at Yuen-Min-Yuen, which, with
the temple last mentioned, preserves much of its form and beauty, is
a gem of that sort of structures. It is of slender proportions, and
built entirely of porcelain of variegated colors. There must lave
been a time when the sculptor of China, while he disdained to copy
foreign models, had learned how to bring Greek and Roman taste
and art to give effect to national designs. Although the lions, the
sphinxes, and the dragons, which are profusely displayed here, are
imaginative conceptions, any one of them would, by its exquisite
execution, excite admiration in Europe.
The destruction of this magnifi: 1 palace by the allies presents
one of those painful subjects concerning which agreement can never
be expected between the generous and the unsympathetic portions
of mankind. The allies say that the demolition was a just and even
necessary retaliation against the emperor for the cruelty practised
by the Chinese Government toward Sir Harry Parkes. The friends
of art throughout the world will agree with the Chinese scholars
and statesmen, who complain that the destruction of these ancient
and ornamental palaces, with the plunder of their stores of art, was
useless to the invaders, and theretore indefensible. For our own
part, we have always thought that the British army might have
spared the Capitol and the presidential mansion in 1814; and we
now think that the allies might have spared Yuen-Min-Yuen.
However this miay be, the fact remains that the Emperor of China,
ruler of the oldest monarchy in the world, is the only sovereign
who is confined to a single residence, and that in the heart of a
crowded and walled city. The ruins are now without tenants, as
the temples are without priests or worshippers. Speculators and
adventurers boldly barter for the disfigured statuary and for the
polished capitals, shafts, and pedestals, of the bronze temple. The
roads are impas
choked, the gar
the plain itself
Berlin, Vienna
respectively suf
or spirit for
therefore, conti
become a maze
Ceesars at Rom
It remains
surrounded b
derived their 1]
of the court.
and vermin.
Arriving he
cession to a hal
inn would not
is hard to say |
able to alight a
which thronged
of Admiral Roc
however, to hay
roof.
Nan-Kow,
and its movem
The “cribbed,
the travel ted!
weariness by oc
driver.
The first pa:
The road has b
with any vehic!
last two hours,
slope, and have
we must go to!
statuary,
summer.
its ‘roof
lights of
| bronze,
weary of
ich, with
eauty, is
ons, and
‘ust leave
| to copy
1an. taste
ions, the
here, are
exquisite
presents
an never
portions
nd even
oractised
friends
scholars
ancient
art, was
bur own
bht have
and we
n-Yuen.
f China,
bvereign
art of a
ants, as
ors and
for the
e. The
THE DECAY OF CHINA. 195
roads are impassable, the marble bridges broken down, the canals
choked, the gardens, groves, and walks, have become devastated, and
the plain itself is fast becoming a stagnant marsh. Washington,
Berlin, Vienna, and Moscow, have repaired the disasters they have
respectively suffered, but the Chinese Government has no resources
or spirit for renovation. The decay of Yuen-Min-Yuen must,
therefore, continue until these “round and splendid” gardens shall
become a maze as unintelligible to the traveller as the palace of the
Cxsars at Rome.
It remains to be said that these imperial pleasure-resorts were
surrounded by populous cities and villages, whose inhabitants
derived their living from ministering to the needs and pleasures
of the court. These cities and villages are now abandoned to bats
and vermin.
Arriving here after dark, we brought our long and bzzarre pro-
cession to a halt in the open streets, because the court-yard of the
inn would not hold litters and carts with the teams attached. It
is hard to say how either Mr. Seward or the ladies could have been
able to alight and thread their way among the busy, curious crowd
which thronged the narrow, crooked streets, but for the assistance
of Admiral Rodgers and the consul-general. We came in safely,
however, to have our first experience of lodging under a Chinese
roof.
Nan-Kow, November 13th.—The mule litter is comfortable,
and its movement easy, but it makes only two miles an hour.
The “cribbed, cabined, and confined,” solitary occupant finds
the travel tedious. We have learned, however, to relieve the
weariness by occasional changes with the muleteer and the donkey-
driver.
The first part of our journey tce-day was over a level table-land.
The road has been only a narrow, "meven, stony path, impassable
with any vehicle other than those we have chosen. During the
last two hours, we have climbed six hundred feet of the mountain
slope, and have reached the foot of the’ Nan-Kow Pass, up which
we must go to reach the Great Wall. With the usual ruggedness
196 JAPAN, OHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
of mountain scenery, no part of the country affords any relief to
Fahrenheit 32°.
the general aspect of desolation.
NAN-KOW PASS.
of adobe, with
is of this sort,
With few exceptions, the houses here are built
thatched roofs, and only one story high. Our inn
and consists of a low range of very small apartments, built against
the wall on the four inner sides of a large, unpaved square. We
have to-night, as last night, secured the entire inn. Entering from
the street, we have on that side of the square a row of apartments
which are divided by the gate. On the right of the gate are the
rooms, or offices, occupied by the manager or keeper of the inn,
where orders are received. On the left, a kitchen, or a series of
immense cooking: houses, where victuals are cooked after the Chinese
fashion, suflicie
marvellous whi
exhibits. The
as he pleases.
do. Proceedin
of apartments
according to th
At the
same sort, whic
sleeping-apartn
series of accom)
and attendants
ing to their tast
harness block u
it or through it
ments, though °
uses to which w
no corridor or
tion between th
are about ten fe
disjointed flat st
swept. The do
One small wind
rooms.
be covered, wit
nor where the n
with which he h
have hired uten:
and cloaks supp’
of each apartme
the stone floor.
reverberatory flv
The platform th
stead of the apa
common bed.
it retains its hea
replenish it at yo
14
elief to
e, with
his sort,
against
ce. We
ng from
irtments
are the
he inn,
keries of
Chinese
A CHINESE INN, 197
fashion, sufficient, we should think, to supply the whole town. It is
marvellous what economy of fuel, labor, and provisions, this kitchen
exhibits. The guest at the inn may supply himself from it or not,
as he pleases. Perhaps, it is needless to say that foreigners never
do. Proceeding through the square, we have on one side a row
of apartments just like the others, which are promiscuously used,
according to the exigencies of the occasion, for stables or lodging-
rooms. At the farther side of the square are four rooms of the
same sort, which we have appropriated for parlor, dining-room, and
sleeping-apartments. On the other side of the square, a similar
series of accommodations for man and beast. The animals, drivers,
and attendants are disposed of in their lodgings,and stables, accord-
ing to their tastes. The litters and carts with their clumsy, ragged
harness block up the court-yard, so that there is no getting across
it or through it, without a guide and a lantern. Our own apart-
ments, though we have called them by names which designate the
uses to which we have appropriated them, are all alike. There is
no corridor or veranda within or without, and so no communica-
tion between them except through the open court-yard. The rooms
are about ten feet square and seven feet high ; the floors of uneven,
disjointed flat stones, and they seem to have been never washed or
swept. The doors are rude, full of crevices, and without fastenings.
One small window in each room has a sash, covered, or meant to
be covered, with dingy, torn, oiled paper. We do not know how
nor where the manager of the inn procured the one table and chair
with which he has furnished our chosen dining-room. Our servants
have hired utensils in the kitchen to prepare our supper. Our bags
and cloaks supply the deficiency of chairs. Across one entire end
of each apartment is a brick platform, raised eighteen inches above
the stone floor. Under this platform is a sunken furnace with
reverberatory flues, so placed as to heat every part of the surface.
The platform thus heated, and called the ang, is the common bed-
stead of the apartment, and the bamboo-mat spread over it is the
common bed. A good fire being built in the kang in the evening,
it retains its heat generally during the night. You may, however,
replenish it at your pleasure. The bedstead accommodates, if neces-
14
198 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
sary, ten persons, who stretch themselves out upon it side by side,
without making any change of clothing, wrapping themselves in
their sheep-skin jackets.
We, of course, have a separate room for each of our party. Our
servants have brought in the cushions, blankets, and furs, from our
litters, and with these, by the aid of our dressing-cases, we are able
to make a pretence of toilets. We have even extemporized cur.
tains, which are close, though not of damask. The kang is throw-
ing out a genial heat through the room. We lie down upon it,
with the stars twinkling brightly through the broken paper panes
of the only window.
November 14th, Morning.—Our mules are not reliable for the
part of our journey which remains. We have ordered mountain.
chairs and coolies, and while they are coming we have made a
complete tour of the inn. In the East, the travellers are generally
merchants or government agents. As there are no carriage-roads,
every one uses one, two, three, or more beasts. Forage is cum-
brous, and therefore becomes the most serious care of the inn-
keeper Dwellers in the East invariably live in close intimacy
with their beasts; hence cleanliness is a virtue scarcely known.
The inn, which last night seemed to us not absolutely destitute of
comfort, this morning is offensive and disgusting.
Nan-Kow, November 14th, Evening.—We have done it! We
have seen the Great Wall. We have scaled its rampart, walked
through its gates, examined its bastions, trodden its parapet, looked
off from its battlements, and rested under its shade. Regarding
this as the greatest achievement of our journey thus far, we should
desire to set down minutely and deliberately each one of its inci-
dents; but, hurried as we are by threatening winter, we have only
time to describe the prominent features, and record an occasional
thought.
China might be designated as a country of fortifications and
walls. Without being aware of this, we have already mentioned
the walls of Shanghai, Tien-Tsin, Tung-Chow, and the triple walls
by side,
elves in
ry. Our
rom our
are able
zed cur-
5 throw-
upon it,
Yr panes
for the
ountain-
made a
renerally
pe-roads,
is cum-
the inn-
intimacy
THE GREAT WALL.
known.
titute of
it! We
» walked
t, looked
egarding
e should
its inci-
ave only
eeasional
Wt
q
my
ions and en MY 4
entioned
ple walls
200 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
of the city of Peking. This little city of Nan-Kow has fortifications
adequate to the largest garrison. Inscriptions on the gate-ways and
arches in four different dialects, Mongolian, Mantchoorian, Chinese,
‘and Thibetian, besides another dialect which is no longer extant,
prove the great antiquity of these structures. Besides these fortifi-
cations, Nan-Kow is encircled by a wall which stretches over hill
and valley in such a way that, while it is no longer useful for any
purpose of defence, one cannot but hope that it may be preserved
GATE AT NAN-KOW.
for picturesque effect. Thus we seem here not to be secing the
present China, but the China of the past.
From the very gate of Nan-Kow, we found neither regular
road, nor marked nor beaten track, but a ravine, which, in the
lapse of ages,
thousand feet
in the rugged
tightly in hig
mounted on 1
pending on th
ing board susy
their way by
broken bowlde
ger at one mo}
chair, at anotl
again of being
places the tor
treacherous ice
pebbles and sh
Steep mountai
of the day. T
brown. The ¢
granite, gneiss
Having sai
tions of a thor¢
at intervals we
and polished
bridges, archeg
road superior t
Only Love
sway in this d
gorges, @ ma
down from Kia
on the way ac
come not in sec
els, and donkey
beasts are loadd
camels make u
beasts by mean
Rocking from
ications
ays and
Jhinese,
extant,
» fortifi-
ver hill
for any
eserved
ing the
regular
h, in the
MOUNTAIN TRAVEL. 201
lapse of ages, a torrent has excavated down the mountain, falling a
thousand feet in a distance of twelve miles. Our upward way lay
in the rugged furrow of this torrent. Each passenger was lashed
tightly in his “mountain” chair, which is simply an arm-chair
mounted on two shafts, and borne by four coolies, his safety de-
pending on the tenacity with which his feet press against a swing-
ing board suspended before him from the shafts. The coolies pick
their way by crossing from one side to the other over uneven,
broken bowlders and rocks, and through deep gullies. The passen-
ger at one moment is in danger of slipping out backward from his
chair, at another of being thrown out one side or the other, and
again of being dashed headlong on the rocks before him. In some
places the torrent is dry, in others the coolies are slipping over
treacherous ice, or splashing through pools of water among rounded
pebbles and sharp rocks; in short, over every thing but dry earth.
Steep mountains exclude the sun’s light and heat at nearly all hours
of the day. Those mountains are timberless, tenantless, dry, and
brown. The geological formation of the pass is an alternation of
granite, gneiss, red and yellow sandstone, porphyry, and marble.
Having said that our road has none of the qualities and condi-
tions of a thoroughfare, it will seem strange when we now say that
at intervals we encounter, through the whole pass, blocks of hewn
and polished marble, with other débris of pavements, culverts,
bridges, arches, and gates, indicating that it was once a military
road superior to the Appian Way of Rome.
Only Love, that “laughs at locksmiths,” could maintain his
sway in this dreary region. We met, in one of the most fearful
gorges, a magnificent crimson wedding-car, which was coming
down from Kiakhta, to receive a bride at Peking. We encounter
on the way a class of travellers that we have not before met. They
come not in sedan-chairs, mule-litters, or carts, but on horses, cam-
els, and donkeys; and of these there is an endless procession. The
beasts are loaded with wheat, barley, hemp, flax, and wool. Thirty
camels make up a single train. One man leads each six of the
beasts by means of a cord to which the halter of each is attached.
Rocking from side to side, and unceasingly chewing their cuds
202 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
as they move slowly along, they excite interest by their patience,
docility, and perseverance. Rongh and vehement as the camel-
driver seems, we have not seen him inflict a blow, or utter a word
of impatience toward the gentle beasts.
Another class of travellers are herdsmen. Mongolia and
Mantchooria, beyond the Great Wall, are pasturages, and the
flocks of sheep and herds of cattle which are raised there are
brought chiefly through this pass, to be spread over the great
p'ain of North China.
The Mongolians dress altogether in furs and skins. They have
an air.of independence and intelligence not observable in China
proper. The women are particularly strong, and, as we judge
from their manner, entirely free. Their furs are richer than those
of the men, and they wear a profusion of silver ornaments on the
fore *, wrist, and ankle, as well as suspended from their ears
and nuse. They travel with their husbands, who divide with them
the care of the children. If it is discouraging to some at home to
wait for the restoration of woman’s rights, it is pleasant to find her
in the full enjoyment of them here, in spite of Oriental prejudices
and superstitions. The mountain-cliffs are ornamented at conven-
ient and prominent points with pretty temples and unique shrines,
and pious devices and legends are carved on what seem to be in-
accessible basaltic rocks. But the temples and shrines, no longer
attended by votaries, are falling into ruin.
Reaching at length the source of the mountain-torrent which
has made such fearful devastation, we found ourselves in a dell
surrounded by mountains, and from their crests the Great Wall
encircling and trowning down upon us. Our chairmen at once,
with renewed vigor and elasticity, carried us up a rugged declivity
of a quarter of a mile, clambering over shivered and shattered
rocks, and set us down within a redoubt at the very base of thie
wall, three hundred feet above the dell which we had left. The
wall varies in he‘ght from twenty-five to fifty feet. The base here,
twenty feet high, is built of solid, hewn granite.
We were not long in ascending the well-preserved flight of
stone steps which led to the parapet. The top of the wall is
RE
wide enough f¢
templated the
and the conqu
now under on
empire. In t
there, a cast-ir¢
our compreher
purpose. We
tance of forty 1
The Great
the Pacific coa:
ings has a leng
it seems almos
fortification the
raised in the
assures us that
and finished it
wonderful than
here and there
nevertheless st.
any ancient str
repairs would r
“ Admiral ]
immovable par:
mate of the con
the present day
The two g
agreed in the r
the United Sta
railroads in tha
“T never be
80 suggestive of
history of Chin
ov fifty centur:
spread themsel
of Asia, establis
tience,
camel-
1 word
» and
d the
re are
- great
y have
China
judge
1 those
on the
ir ears
1 them
ome to
nd her
judices
onven-
hrines,
be in-
longer
which
a dell
Wall
once,
clivity
ttered
of the
The
> here,
rht of
yall is
REFLECTIONS ON THE GREAT WALL. 203
wide enough for two carriages to pass. rom the parapet we con-
templated the conquered China of the past, which was below us,
and the conquering Tartary of the past, which was above us, both
now under one régume, and constituting one vast, but crumbling
empire. In the embrasures of the parapet we found, here and
there, a cast-iron grooved cannon of four-pound calibre. It passed
our comprehension to conceive when it was put there, or for what
purpose. We entered a watch-tower on our left, and saw, at a dis-
tance of forty miles, murky Peking.
The Great Wall crosses twenty-one degrees of longitude from
the Pacific coast to the desert border of Thibet, and with its wind-
ings has a length of from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred miles.
it seems almost incredible that this gigantic structure, the greatest
fortification that has been built by human hands, could have been
raised in the short space of about twenty years. Yet history
assures us that Chin-Wangti began the work in the year 240 B. c.,
and finished it in 220 z.c. Nor is the perfection of the work less
wonderful than the dispatch with which it was built. Although it
here and there exhibits crumbling arches and falling ramparts, it
nevertheless stands more firmly and in better preservation than
any ancient structure, except perhaps the Pyramids. Very slight
repairs would restore it to its original state.
“ Admiral Rodgers,” said Mr. Seward, as we leaned against the
immovable parapet, “ will you take your pencil and make an esti-
mate of the comparative cost of constructing a mile of this wall, at
the present day, with that of a mile of the Pacific Railroad ?”
The two gentlemen went through the process together, and
agreed in the result that the cost of building such a wall as this, in
the United States to-day, would exceed the entire cost of all the
railroads in that country.
“T never before,” said Mr. Seward, “found mysclf in a position
80 suggestive of reflection. This great monument tells, in brief, the
history of China. Aboriginal tribes of the Mongolian race, forty
or fifty centuries ago, left cold and sterile homes in the north, |
spread themselves over the southeastern portion of the continent
of Asia, established there a kingdom, and built up a prosperous and
204 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN OHINA.
highly-refined state. They were annoyed by incursions and dep-
redations from the same northern steppes which they had left
behind them, just as England was so long annoyed by incursions
and depredations of the Picts and Scots, Danes and Saxons. Chin-
Wangti, king of civilized China, built this great wall to protect the
country against those nomadic tribes. The completion of so great
a work justified him in laying aside the modest title of king, and
assuming the more ambitious one of emperor—the first emperor
of China. It is not an unimportant consideration that the culmina-
tion of the Chinese Empire, marked by the construction of the Great
Wall, was coincident with the decline of Grecian arts and arms and
with the establishment of Roman empire on the western shores of
Asia. The Great Wall served its purpose through the period of
fourteen hundred years. But, during this time, wealth and luxury
increased in China, while moral vigor declined. An enervated state
provoked the rapacity of its neighbors. Kublai-Khan effected a
combination of all the Tartar and Mongolian hordes of the north.
They forced the wall, conquered and enslaved China. Chinese
morals and manners, however, subdued and modified the character
of their conquerors. The wall ceased to be needful, because the
Chinese and Tartars became reconciled, assimilated, and contented,
under the sway of the Mantchoorian dynasty. How little can
human foresight ever penetrate the remote future! How little
Chin-Wangti understood of the fate of the Great Wall. Is it not
well that human power cannot bind or control for an indefinite
future the destinies of any nation ¢”
Occupied with such reflections as these, we took no note of the
hours until the shadows began to fall, and the wind became cold
and bleak. We descended and sat at the base of the rampart,
where we found a dinner spread upon an uneven table of broken
granite blocks.
“ Admiral,” said Mr. Seward, “our Government informed me,
when I was coming abroad, that you were instructed to show me
courteous attentions, if I should be so fortunate as to meet you in
Asiatic waters. You have executed these instructions in a manner
equally considerate and kind. You not only received me at
Shanghai with
your official st:
protector as w
agitated politi
the desolate pl
Great Wall, w
power of Chin
from the shore
The admir:
well as happy,
Peking and tl
varied experier
deductions fro1
intercourse wit
honor. Truly
robust, and yo
perience toget:
climes, of othe
mankind than
Our party |
tween its mem|
At length we
bearers set us
fresh. Half a
and proceeded
whether the ha
might be perpl
The long, hee
equally perple
These rudenes:
durable when
their filthy pip
ladies seemed t
own race, they
not especially 1
of infancy, wit!
nd dep-
1ad left
2ursions
Chin-
tect the
0 great
ng, and
mperor
ulmina-
e Great
rms and
10res of
riod of
| luxury
ed state
ected a
> north.
Chinese
haracter
use the
itented,
ttle can
w little
s it not
definite
e of the
me cold
ampart,
broken
hed me,
10Ww me
you in
manner
me at
A LONELY TRAMP. 205
Shanghai with the usual naval demonstrations of respect, but, with
your official staff, you have accompanied me, in the character of a
protector as well es a friend, through the stormy Yellow Sea, the
agitated political scenes of Tien-Tsin, up the tedious Pei-ho, over
the desolate plains of Tung-Chow to Peking, and from there to the
Great Wall, where we can look back together on the declining
power of China, and forward to the coming of Western civilization
from the shores of our own country to the Asiatic coast.”
The admiral replied: “I have esteemed myself fortunate, as
well as happy, in having had an opportunity of attending you to
Peking and the Great Wall—fortunate in having your ripe and
varied experience to assist me in forming opinions, and in drawing
deductions from what I have seen; happy in the continual familiar
intercourse with me whom it is not only a duty, but a pleasure, to
honor. Truly do I hope that your health may continue no less
robust, and your endurance no less marked, than in our rough ex-
perience together, and that your personal observations in other
climes, of other peoples, may not be of less interest and benefit to
mankind than those you make here.”
Our party broke into detachments and all communications be-
tween its members ceased. What a lonely tramp did we now have!
At length we reached the half-way coolie station. There the
bearers set us down outside, while they went into the huts to re-
fresh. Half a dozen men and boys came around the ladies’ chairs,
and proceeded to examine their dresses, unable to determine
whether the habiliments were those of man or woman. Well they
might be perplexed. The Astrakhan cap might be worn by either.
The long, heavy fox-skin coat and white mandarin boots were
equally perplexing. They drew the gloves from off the fingers,
These rudenesses were disturbing enough, but at last became unen-
durable when they thrust their fingers into the hair, and offered
their filthy pipes, inviting a general smoke. Just then, when the
ladies seemed to have passed completely beyond the society of their
own race, they heard the shrill voice of a baby within the hut, crying
not especially in the Chinese language, but in the universal dialect
of infancy, with the response of the soothing lullaby of the mother,
206 JAPAN, CHINA, AND OOCHIN CHINA.
These incidents reassured the ladies, and showed
equally netural.
them that the Chinese are yet human, and they gave over all
thoughts of fear and torment.
After a march of three more tedious hours, we have reached the
same wretched inn which we left this morning. We conclude the
notes of our journey by mentioning that, a thousand years, more or
less, after the wall was built by Chin-Wangti, 2 second one was
built for greater security, at the eastern end, forty miles south of
the original one, both of which remain standing. It is this second
wall last built, but similar to and constituting a part of the original
system of defence, that we have visited.
Ming Tombs, November 15th.—Resuming our litter, and moy-
ing early this morning, we came down from the mountain terrace,
and entered a smooth, level, circular plain, seeming more like :
bay which indents a high, rocky coast, than the amphitheatre of
landscape and mountain which it is. The terrace which surrounds
the plain was chosen by the emperors of the Ming dynasty for an
GATE@AY AT MING TOMBS,
imperial cemet:
equal extent.
dens, out of tl
‘alled here a t
tells us that *
flourished from
teenth century.
of the earlier r
not so well pres
All the tom
one of the mo:
decrees of laws
fucius, with son
Chinese Empire
persimmons, liv
“Tt seems,”
reaches a high s
absurdity of sep
virtues leave an
no monumental
that impression
how the Chinese
is manifest that
one above the ¢
This vast monu
The structures
each other, but
outer one servi
This inner temp
railings, is in f
fucius at Peking
simple. Its ma
and-gold ceiling
there are thirt
diameter of four
fourth court stan
howed
ver all
ed the
de the
10re or
ne was
uth of
second
riginal
d moy-
terrace,
. like a
atre of
rrounds
for an
TIE MING TOMBS. 207
imperial cemetery. It is divided into thirteen arcas, seemingly of
equal extent. Each of these areas is covered with luxuriant gar-
dens, out of the midst of which rises a magnificent mausoleum,
called Lere a temple, but which is in fact a tomb. Dr. Williams
tells us that “Ming” means “bright.” The “ Bright” dynasty
flourished from the close of the fourteenth to the middle of the seven-
teenth century. Nanking, for a time the capital, has a cemetery
of the earlier rulers of that dynasty. But we understand that it is
not so well preserved as this,
All the tombs are of one type. We visited that of Yung Lo,
one of the most distinguished of the emperors of China. His
decrees of laws and manners, grounded on the writings of Con-
fucius, With some alteration, constitute even now the code of the
Chinese Empire. We sat down here to rest in an ancient grove of
persimmons, live-oaks, acacias, and cypresses.
“It seems,” said Mr. Seward, “that it is not until society
reaches a high state of civilization in any country that it learns the
absurdity of sepulchral monuments. Great achievements and rare
virtues leave an impression upon mankind so deep, that they need
no monumental reminder, while the attempt to supply the want of
that impression by extravagant art isa mockery.” But Jet us see
how the Chinese of the past ages honored their illustrious dead. It
is manifest that the device of a series of concentric structures, rising
one above the other, is a favorite form of Chinese architecture.
This vast monument contaius five courts, one within the other.
The structures are two temples, disconnected and distant from
each other, but essentially alike in design and construction—the
outer one serving as a vestibule to the inner or principal one.
This inner temple, with its red walls and its plain balustrades and
railings, is in form and style quite like the great Temple of Con-
fucius at Peking. Its proportions are equally grand, tasteful, and
simple. Its massive yellow-porcelain roof, with its bright green-
and-gold ceiling, rests upon two rows of wooden columns, of which
there are thirty in each —the columns fifty feet high, with a
diameter of four feet at the base. Behind the temple and in the
fourth court stands an uncovered altar, the top of which is a mono-
208 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
lith measuring twenty-two feet by five feet. Directly behind the
altar is a pagoda of three stories. Entering this pagoda through
an arched door, you confront a large tablet of red and gold, which
covers the remains of Yung Lo. You then ascend not a staircase,
but a long and winding inclined plane, some sixty fect, to the sec.
ond story. This second story rises seventy feet; in the centre
of this is a smaller tablet, like the one in the first story. The third
story, reached in the same way, is an open space under the roof.
Although we observe, in these buildings and grounds, marks of
eare and attention not elsewhere seen in China, there is neverthie.
less painful evidence that the work of dilapidation has begun even
here.
The path by which we reached the cemetery was an indirect
one. Contrary to usage, therefore, we made our exit instead of our
entrauce by the avenue designed for approach from Peking. This
avenue is twenty-two miles long, well graded, and originally was
paved in the most substantial manner. This road descends from
the tomb-covered terrace upon the level plain, at a distance of one
mile from the tomb of Yung Lo. Here it crosses a stream or
anal by a noble marble bridge, not wholly ruined. This bridge is
graced with what is here called the honorary arch, a majestic gate-
way, built not for use but for effect, like the triumphal arches of
Rome or Paris. A mile farther the road leaves the level plain
under a similar arch. Having passed these gates, we foun] the
avenue adorned, for the length of a whole mile, by a row, on e:ther
side, of gigantic granite figures. Whoever may read these notes
will remember that the proper order of these colossal figures is
the reverse of that in which we passed them. First, we came be-
tween two rows of statues representing philosophers and moralists,
four on each side of the way. Then four generals, arranged in like
manner on each side, then four priests, then four ministers or
statesmen. These figures are about twelve feet high, their costume
Chinese. By their attitude and expression they seem to point with
silent homage to the tombs of the great beyond. Next we pass in
review a double row of equally colossal horses, four on each side,
two of them resting on their haunches, and two erect; next cle-
phants erect,
standing and
asleep 3 then —
the end rhinoe
other end of' tl
the sculpture n
excels much of
ington, and is
that we should
witnesses to vd
Consul-General,
William Freem
of Mr. Seward’:
he had given pi
pressive of disc
from Peking to
Ming tombs, wi
reserving himse
‘ind the
through
1, which
taircase,
the see.
e centre
‘he third
root,
narks of
1everthie-
yun even
indirect
ad of our
g. This
nally was
nds from
ee of one
tream or
bridge is
stic gate-
arches of
vel plain
oun the
on e.ther
ese notes
figures 1s
‘ame be-
moralists,
ed in like
listers or
r costume
oint with
ve pass in
ach side,
next cle-
PRANKS OF A MULE. 209
phants erect, and elephants in a sitting posture; then camels
standing and camels couchant ; then lions rampant and lions
asleep 3 then buffaloes standing and at rest; then asses, and at
the end rhinoceroses. Here two arches of honor, like those at the
other end of tlie avenue, open on unconsecrated ground. Though
the sculpture must have been executed three hundred years ago, it
excels much of the statuary found in the public grounds at Wash-
ington, and is very effective. Of this we have evidence so strong
that we should be afraid to produce it, if there were not a cloud of
AVENUE TO THE MING TOMBS,
witnesses to verify it. We give their names—the Admiral, the
Consul-General, John Middleton, Esq., Alfred Rodman, Esq., and
William Freeman. Here is the evidence: The lean lead mule
of Mr. Seward’s litter is a large, strong, spirited beast. Although
he had given proofs of this many times by stentorian braying, ex-
pressive of discontent and obstinacy, yet he made the journey
from Peking to Nan-Kow, and through the sacred groves of the
:
Ming tombs, without any especial fractiousness. But he was only
reserving himself for a display on the grand avenue. Even here
210 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
he made no demonstration at the magnificent marble bridge. Ile
passed meekly under the double arches of honor. Ile turned
neither to the right nor to the left, to pay homages to cither colos-
sal philosophers, gene “als, priests, or statesmen. Je even passed
the recumbent horses on both sides of him without furning his head
or pricking up his ears, But the first great stone horse standing
erect, on the left, proved too much for the equanimity of the mule,
Perceiving that statue at a distance of three or four rods, he broke
all of a sudden from his lazy walk into a sharp trot, discarding his
driver and dragging the rear mule behind him; regardless that,
in the litter which he bore, was seated the venerated chief of our
party, he dashed furiously forward to the granite horse, and, throw.
ing his head upward, presented his broad, graceless mouth to the
more stubborn jaw of the statue. The muletecrs, alarmed by this
strange performance, cried out with dismay, and the gentlemen
hastened to rescue Mr. Seward from being dashed against the figure,
Happily, at this moment, the muleteers seized the brute by the
head, in the act of saluting his ancient and unappreciative distant
relation, and buffeted him away. He yielded, but not without a
shaking of the ears, and an unearthly complaint from the lungs,
which left no one in doubt that the animal thought he was unrea-
sonably deprived of a just and rational pleasure.
Though not yet qualified for comparing the Imperial Cemetery
of China with the sepulchral architecture of other countries, we
may nevertheless venture to say that the impressive and suggestive
avenue of approach, the spaciousness of the grounds, the severe
exclusion of all foreign or incongruous objects, the drawing into
contrast mountain and plain with ancient groves, and natural
rivulets with arched bridges, the magnificence and elegance of ‘the
temples, and the simplicity and durability of the memorial tablets,
constitute an extraordinary and masterly combination. Whatever
may be the historical merit of the Ming emperors whose ashes are
deposited in those tombs, no one can leave the place doubting that
the honors they have received here are such as are due to bene-
factors of mankind.
Cham-Ping-Chow.—A
The Tien-Tsin M
from Sun-Tajen
Prince.—The Pr
Peking, Nor
Chow, a town o
we could procur
guides say there
are none which ¢
we have the con
not know what
They could not
which we hae
wall and back |
The expenses o
dollars for all, o
for the kang.
people who cam
belief that they
while it does s:
fulfilment of the
November 1
religion is tolera
e. Ile
turned
° Colos-
passed
is head
anding
e mule,
e broke
ling his
88 that,
of our
throw.
to the
by this
'tlemen
figure.
by the
distant
thout a
lungs,
s unrea-
Pmetery
ies, we
reestive
severe
g into
natural
of ‘the
tablets,
hatever
les are
ne tliat
bene-
CHAPTER X.
LAST DAYS IN PEKING.
Cham-Ping-Chow.—A Chinese Inn.—The Roman Catholics in China,—The Cathedral.—
The Tien-Tsin Massacre.—Christian Policy.—Interview with Robert Hart.—A Letter
from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen.—Letter from Prince Kung.—lInterview with the
Prince.—The Prince’s Present.—Departure from Peking.
Peking, November 16th.—We passed the night at Cham-Ping-
Chow, a town of considerable activity. Cur inn was such a one as
we could procure exclusively without giving previous notice. Our
guides say there are some that are better. We are quite sure there
are none which ean be worse. But, if we fare badly in Chinese inns,
we have the consolation of knowing that we fare cheaply. We do
not know what were the bills of our coolies for man and beast.
They could not have been extravagant, for the entire compensation
which we hae paid to them for the journey to Peking to the
wall and back again is only ten dollars for each litter and cart.
The expenses of our party of ten at tie inn was three Mexican
dollars for all, of which seventy-five cents was paid for extra fuel
for the kang. The impression made on us, by the conduct of the
people who came under our observation, does not go to confirm the
belief that they are either hostile or prejudiced against foreigners,
while it does satisfy us that they are punctual and exact in the
fulfilment of their contracts. The mercury has fallen to 26°.
November 1%th.—By the laws of China, the Roman Catholic
religion is tolerated here. That Church has on paper divided the
212 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
empire into bishopries and vicarates. It counts eight bishoprics o
more, sixty foreign priests, one hundred and twenty native priests,
and four hundred thousand native converts.
We visited, to-day, the Cathedral at Peking. It is a fine, large,
stone edifice, with an adjoining nunnery. The sisters are French
and Irish. There is a large number of native servants. It seems
quite apparent that converts are obtained as fast as the missionaries
are able to furnish them employment and support, which is an
indispensable condition. Native jealousy feeds on a tradition that
the spacious grounds occupied by those institutions were obtained
without equivalent. Nor cves the same jealousy fail to take notice
that the Church arrogates a right denied even to foreign embassies,
of using the imperial yellow color in the ornamentation of its
portals and walls. Sister Louise, lamented as the noblest and best
beloved of the martyrs at Tien-Tsin, had arrived there just before
the massacre. The sisters gave us relics of her. What shall we
say concerning that terrible transaction ¢
It is right, just, and wise, that all the Christian nations shall
mourn together over the victims, sympathize with the survivors,
and unite in demanding such satisfaction from the Chinese Govern-
ment as would afford security against a recurrence of persecution,
But this has been already done as fully, it seems to us, as is possible.
The Chinese Government has beheaded eighteen of the murderers,
has provided for repairing and restoring the demolished buildings,
and paid an indemnity of six hundred thousand taels for distribu-
tion to the families of the victims. It has, moreover sent one of the
most eminent statesmen of China, who is fully conversant with the
details of the tragedy, to make such further explanations and give
such further guarantees as the French Government may reasonably
demand. The French minister here, under high excitement and
with threats of war, demanded, besides those concessions, the leads
of the two chief mandarins who were in authority at the time the.
massacre occurred, The Chinese Government brought those man-
darins to trial. The charge of complicity was not sustained,
Nevertheless the Government banished them for life, as a punish-
ment for their imbecility.
We kno
United Stat
Governmen
dence of fra
forgotten th
persecution
Chinese. T
pretensions,
of judgment
only with t
civilization «
it has faller
two forms :
of an attem)
picion of im.
In which
Church and
occasional r
religious wa
what Weste1
or liberal re}
given in this
countries in
and sequeste
of 'rance th
for all Christ
member thiat
offences com
therefore, an
injunction, 4
send you for
Wise as serpt
Novembe
sojourn here
with Mr, Re
Loprics o
re priests,
ne, large,
e French
It seems
ssionaries
lich is an
‘ition that
obtained
ike notice
»mbassies,
on of its
5 and best
ust before
| shall we
ions shall
survivors,
e Govern-
rsecution.
s possible.
nurderers,
buildings,
r distribu-
one of the
t with the
Band give
sasonably
nent and
the heads
. time the.
10se Maine
sustained,
a punish-
THE TIEN-TSIN MASSACRE. 213
We know that here, as well as throughout Europe and the
United States, it is alleged that these proceedings of the Chinese
Government are fraudulent and evasive; but we fail to find evi-
dence of fraud, nor can we divine a motive for it. It is not to be
forgotten that persecution of Christian missionaries, and especially
persecution of Roman Catholic, is not exclusively confined to the
Chinese. The Roman Catholic Church, with its high ecclesiastical
pretensions, its monastical institutions, and its denial of the right
of judgment by individual conscience, has come into conflict not
only with the pagan systems of Asia, but with the enlightened
civilization of the age. Here, as in Europe and the United States,
it has fallen, however undeservedly, under popular suspicion in
two forms: first, a suspicion of political usurpation, that is to say,
of an attempt to establish dmperiwm in tmperio; second, the sus-
picion of impurity of morals in celibate tife.
In which of the Western nations has the conflict between that
Charch and those who dissent from it been carried on without
occasional riot, massacre, and martyrdom—not to speak of the
religious wars which ativnded the Protestant Reformation? In
what Western nation did a government ever offer more effective
or liberal reparation than that which the Chinese Government has
given in this case? It is not to be expected that the Protestant
countries in the West, which have suppressed monastic institutions,
and sequestered ecclesiastical estates, will sympathize with demands
of France that shall go beyond a guarantee of rights and privileges
for all Christians in China. Missionaries of all sects ought to re-
member that, where the Gospel comes, there “it must needs be that
offences come,” nor should they forget that the command, “Go ye,
therefore, and teach all nations,” was accompanied by the warning
injunction, not less sublime than the command itself, ‘ Behold, I
send you forth as sheep in the midst of wolves; be ye therefore
wise as serpents and harmless as doves.”
November 18th.—One of the most important incidents of our
sojourn here was reserved for this morning. This was an interview
with Mr. Robert Hart. Can any thing be more capricious than
15
214 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
international politics? The British and French allies, after having
pressed the empire to the verge, found it necessary all of a sudden
to strike hands with the Government in its war with the rebels, in
order to prevent a complete dissolution of society. With their aid,
the Government effectually suppressed the rebellion. Then came
the question of reimbursements and indemnities to be paid to the
allies. The revenue system of China had become corrupt and
effete. The Imperial Government could guarantee nothing. In
this difficult conjuncture, a happy expedient was hit upon. The
Government, with assurances of protection by Great Britain and
France, consented to reorganize its customs revenue upon a Euro-
pean basis, and confide it to the management of a European skilled
in finance, who, with a staff of his appointment, half Chinese and
half European, should fix a uniform rate of duties on foreign im-
ports, collect them, pay the stipulated indemnities to the allies, and
the surplus into the imperial treasury. That functionary, under the
official title of inspector-general, is Mr. Robert Hart. While the
internal revenue system of China remains in a distracted and dilap-
idated state, he has brought the customs department into a flourish-
ing condition. He returned only to-day from a journey of inspec-
tion of the open ports in distant parts of the empire. We found
him a far-seeing and able statesman, having in finance, at least,
something of the scope and capacity of Alexander Hamilton. But
we reserve further remark on this system until we shall have
studied its workings in the central and southern ports of the
empire.
A letter from our old friends Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen. If
there is a discrepancy between their names as known to us and
their autograph cards, it will be understood that the word “ Tajen,”
which is affixed to their names, is a designation of rank, and nota
proper name. Mr. Seward is here addressed, not by that name, but
as Sew-Tajen.
“To Witt IT. Sewarp—
“Sm: We arrived in Peking yesterday, from Tien-Tsin, and
had earnestly desired to hasten to you, in order to express to you
our great plea:
ceedingly bois
are altogether
to submit a no
ourselves befor
and procure a.
must be done
court usage to
ceremony, eve!
could hardly d
“We sincer
for e' your g
troublesome to
where they wil
“We wish |
November 1
the legation ;
residing in Pe
sedan-chairs a
ing a letter was
“To WILLIAM
“Sm: [ha
from your trip
foreign office,
the United Stat
“T hope thi
“T beg to w
Autograph
“ Pr
“Youn
“ Was
aving
udden
els, in
ir aid,
came
to the
t and
y. In
The
n and
Euro-
skilled
se and
on im-
4s, and
ler the
ile the
1 dilap-
ourish-
inspee-
» found
| least,
. But
1 have
of the
n. If
us and
Pajen,”
1 nota
ne, but
in, and
s to you
LETTER FROM PRINCE KUNG. 915
our great pleasure. But the trip up from Shanghai has been ex-
ecedingly boisterous, making us very sick and giddy, so that we
are altogether exhausted. Furthermore, we have not yet been able
to submit a note requesting that we may be permitted to prostrate
ourselves before the throne, and inquire for his Majesty’s health,
and procure a short leave of absence from the foreign office, which
must be done through Prince Kung. It would be contrary to
court usage to make a visit to you before having complied with that
ceremony, even if we were not so completely prostrated that we
could hardly do so, in a proper manner.
“We sincerely wish to repair to your residence to thank you
for e' your generous and loving acts, which were so great and
troublesome to you. But they are indelibly graven on our hearts,
where they will remain forever. And how can we forget them ?
“We wish that your happiness may never cease.
(Cards) “ Cnm-Kana,
Sun-Cura-Kun.”
November 19th.—On the 17th, international dinner and ball at
the legation ; on the 18th, received visits from the foreign ladies
residing in Peking, and, our time here growing short, we took
sedan-chairs and returned the visits on the same day. This even-
ing a letter was received from Prince Kung.
“To WirttAm TH. Sewarp, ete.
“Str: [have just heard that you and your party have returned
from your trip to the country, and I have, with the officers of the
foreign office, arranged to visit you to-morrow, at one o’clock, at
the United States legation.
“T hope this hour will be agreeable to you all.
“T beg to wish you daily peace.”
Autograph cards enclosed :
“ Prince Kuna, “ PAsYUN,
“ Yuna-Surn, *“* Curn-Krostraw,
W as-CHANG-HI, “ Ysunq@-LuN.”
|
216 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
November 20th.—At one o’clock, Prince Kung, with the minis-
ters of the foreign office, came, having previously sent in their
cards according to the book of rites. They came in chairs, and
were received by the band at the entrance of the court, with a
Chinese national air which they had learned for the occasion. The
music, although by no means inspiring to us, seemed to please
them. Mrs. Low, having first provided a table, half American, half
Chinese, retired with the other ladies to an inner room, where they
could observe, unobserved. The prince is the brother of the last
emperor, and uncle of the present emperor, who is yet in his
minority. The government of the empire is in the hands of the
regency, consisting of the young emperor’s mother and aunt, and
Prince Kung. The two ladies take charge of the boy’s person and
education, while the prince exercises the sovereign political author-
ity. All edicts, however, run in the name of the emperor, without
any notice of the regency except the form of attestation. The
female regents maintain strictly the reserve required of their sex,
being never seen even by any minister of the government. When
a decree is to be made, Prince Kung proceeds with the draught to
the palace, and announce his presence before a curtain. The
ladies then come behind the curtain, and receive and read the
decree. They impress it with their seals. A eunuch delivers it
to the prince, who, affixing his own seal, hands it to the “state-
printer” in a: Jaterchamber. Before he reaches his department,
the deciee is published and in circulation.
The prince is tall and well-made, but does not impress one as
especially intellectual. Iis manner is self-possessed and brusque,
and he seems, even when practising the highest courtesy, like a
person who is not accustomed to contradiction or dissent. He
saluted Mr. Seward first in the Tartar fashion, by ‘aking that
gentieman’s arms and hands into his own, with a friendly embrace.
Our learned countryman, Dr. Martin, who acted as interpreter,
mentioned to Mr. Seward that this treatment was in striking con-
trast with the customary Chinese “ touch-me-not” form of salutation
of foreigners. The prince then earnestly expressed his satisfaction
in the accomplishment of a wish he had long entertained, to see the
face of his dis
but he immec
his previous ¢
had been, on t
entirely disabl
Mr. Sewatr
by sceing and
Prince Kt
with our emb
many acknowl
our ministers 1
Mr. Sewar
welcomed that
relations betwe
Prince Kv:
been amicable.
future. As to
were, to put t
Excellency.”
Mr. Sewa
them concerni
then prepared
the draught, a
submitted it b
When those
ceptable to th
myself. This
Prince Kum
“What a p
a fate, leaving
Mr. Sewa
that he exertec
mutual interco
nation at any
and so useful,
Prince K
minis-
. their
rs, and
With a
The
please
n, half
'e they
he last
in his
of the
nt, and
on and
Muthor-
vithout
. The
ir sex,
When
ught to
The
ad the
vers it
state-
rtment,
one as
rusque,
, like a
it. He
vg that
mbrace.
rpreter,
ng con-
lutation
sfaction
see the
CONVERSATION WITH PRINCE KUNG. 217
face of his distinguished visitor. Mr. Seward requested him to sit,
but he immediately rose, and apologized for his failure in keeping
his previous appointment at the foreign office. He said that he
had been, on that occasion, seized with a sudden illness, which had
entirely disabled him from business for many days.
Mr. Sewarp: “ The anxiety I felt about you is happily relieved
by sceing and knowing that you are well again.”
Prince Kuna: “ My acquaintance with your Excellency began
with our embassy to the United States and Europe, and I have
many acknowledgments to make for the kindness and assistance
our ministers received at your hands.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Not at all, your Highness. Our Government
welcomed that embassy as a harbinger of closcr and more friendly
relations between the United States and China.”
Prince Kuna: “ The relations of the two countries have always
been amicable. I trust they will become still more intimate in
future. As to our ministers on that occasion, their instructions
were, to put themselves very much under the directions of your
Excellency.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ On the arrival of the embassy, I conferred with
them concerning the objects of their mission and their powers. I
then prepared a draught of a treaty, which they amended. When
the draught, as amended, had been approved by the President, I
submitted it by telegraph to Great Britain, France, and Germany.
When those nations had signified that such a treaty would be ac-
ceptable to them, it was then signed by your ambassadors and by
myself. This is the story of the ‘ Burlingame Treaty.’ ”
Prince Kung made a profound bow, and exclaimed :
“What a pity that Mr. Burlingame was cut off by so untimely
a fate, leaving his work unfinished !”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Mr, Burlingame’s work was so far accomplished
that he exerted an influence which will never cease to be felt in the
mutual intercourse of China and the Western nations, The termi-
nation at any time of a life which had already become so successful
and so useful, cannot be called premature.”
Prince Kuna: “Ah! if others would adopt the principles
218 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
which are practised by your Government, it would be a great ad-
vantage to us.”
Here, at Mr. Low’s invitation, the party took seats at the table—
the prince at the left, with Mr. Seward next his Highness; Ysung-
Lun, senior Minister of the Board of Foreign Affairs, on his right;
next to him, Admiral Rodgers. Not much attention, however, was
paid to the elegant repast. The conversation was immediately re-
sumed, and continued an hour:
Prince Kune: “ How many are your venerable years ¢”
Mr. Sewarp: “Sixty-nine. May I ask your Highness’s age?”
Prince Kune: “ Thirty-five. Are you now in the exercise of
public functions? or have you laid down the cares of office, while
you continue to wear its honors?”
Mr. Srwarp: “I was in active public life thirty years. I have
now given up official duties, and am studying in the way of foreign
travel—”
The prince did ne* wait for the end of Mr. Seward’s remark,
but, misapprehending iis gesticulations, said :
“JT know, without an interpreter, what you are speaking about.
It is your painful experience in your conflict with the Southern re-
bellion.”
At Mr. Seward’s request, the interpreter told the prince that his
guess was wide of the mark, and then gave Mr. Seward’s answer.
“‘ Nevertheless,” said the prince, “I desire to hear from you
about the rebellion, and especially about vour escape from assassi-
nation, and about the honorable wounds you have received, the
marks of which you still wear.”
Mr. Seward, after a few words to satisfy the prince’s curiosity
on that subject, brought the question back to Chinese politics:
Mr. Srwarp: “ Your Highness, is it the intention of your
Government to establish permanent missions in foreign capitals?”
Prince Kuna: “ By all means. We expect to have perma-
nent embassies, and we expect to derive great benefit from them.”
Mr. Srwarp: “The Japanese Government gave me a letter,
which they addressed to the minister whom they have recently sent
to China. I would like to deliver it.”
PRINCE .
Mr. Sew
PRINCE -
Mr. Sew
PRINCE |
once in five
Mr. Sew
come to you
Prince ]
Coreans hay
our own.”
Mr. Sew
countries mi
the empire ¢
Prince]
pendent stat
always recel
Mr. Sew
regard to wl
elephant.”
The prin
the legation
in Peking.
Admiral
observatory
PRINCE
instruments
lete.”’
Mr. Sev
West should
difficulties vy
ters. I trv
dent, Dr. 1
Prince
and we hay
to succeed.’
reat ad-
table—
Ysung-
is right;
bver, Was
ately re-
”
’ 999
s age?
ercise of
ce, while
I have
pt foreign
5s remark,
g about.
thern re-
e that his
answer.
from you
n assassi-
ived, the
curiosity
tics:
of your
pitals ?”
@ perma-
n them.”
a letter,
ently sent
CONVERSATION WITH PRINCE KUNG, 219
Prince Kuna: “ He has not yet come.”
Mr. Sewarp: “Is the Anamite Empire still tributary to China?”
Prince Kuna: “It still continues to send tribute.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ And does Siam, also?”
Privce Kune: “The Siamese Government sends us tribute
once in five years.”
Mr. Sewarp: “What is the diplomatic rank of envoys who
come to you from Corea ¢”
Privc— Kune: “ That question is not easily answered. The
Coreans have grades of rank, and honors, altogether different from
our own.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Are the tributes which you receive from those
countries merely ceremonial, or do they enter into the revenues of
the empire ¢”
Privce Kune: “We act on the maxim that the envoys of de-
pendent states shall come to us lean, and go out from us fat. They
always receive greater presents than they bring.”
Mr. Srwarp: “ The King of Siam once sent us a present in
regard to which we could not act on that maxim. It was a white
elephant.”
The prince took out his watch to compare his time with that of
the legation, and explained that there is no standard chronometer
in Peking.
Admiral Rodgers inquired whether the instruments at the
observatory are no longer serviceable.
Prince Kuna: “ Observations are still made there, but the
instruments are somewhat neglected, and they have become obso-
lete.”
Mr. Srwarp: “It seems so desirable that the sciences of the
West should be introduced into China that I regret t> learn of the
difficulties which the university projected by Wan-Siang encoun-
ters. I trust that that institution will revive under its new presi-
dent, Dr. Martin.”
Prince Kune: “It was with that nope that we appointed him,
and we have now the utmost confidence in its success. It is bound
to succeed.”
220 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Dr. Martin, in Mr. Seward’s name, asked the prince and his
associates to write their names in the ladies’ albums.
The prince took up the book, and, seeming to assume that it
was Mr. Seward’s own, wrote these words :
“Having already attained so much of wealth and honor, may you also
attain to great longevity! ”
He signed this in the Mantchoo character— Kune-Cutey.
Wane.”
The aged Minister Chin-Lun, president of the Board of Con.
trol for the Colonies, wrote :
‘May mankind enjoy universal peace!”
He signed this both in the Chinese and Mantchoo characters,
Tung-Tajen, president of the Board of Revenue, before re.
ferred to in these notes as a poet, wrote, in ancient ornamental
characters :
“May mild winds and quiet waves,
Tranquil seas and pleasant rivers,
Speed you on your voyage.”
Shen-Tajen, member of the Grand Council of State, next took
up the pencil, and wrote :
“May the clouds give you lucky omens,
The stars assure you appiness and long life,
The opening flowers presage wealth and honors,
And the bamboo tube [the mail-bag] only
And always bring you tidings of peace!”
Repeating and rehearsing these several kindly sentiments. they
rose, took the hands of Mr. Seward and the admiral into their own,
bade them farewell, and retired.
November 21st.—General Vlangally again entertained us with a
breakfast at his pleasant legation.
PRE
This morni
usual retinue |
delivered to M
including one «
left the followi
eee
Mr. Sewarc
of acknowledg
You can only |
to each coolie.
would be thou
The Amer
passed the afte
of our whole
good men anc
this benighted
sent them hitl
Ever since
have been dili
of our party
caused a repo
describes man
going repair.
the journey,
to make it in
ages. It is al
impassable by
not without 1
nd his
that it
rou also
Curen-
f Con-
ters.
ore re-
mental
t took
:. they
Y own,
with a
PRESENTS FROM THE MINISTERS OF STATE. 221
This morning four mandarin chairs and six carts, with an un-
usual retinue of coolies, appeared at the legation. A messenger
delivered to Mr. Seward the cards of the several Ministers of State,
including one of Wan-Siang, together with a present, of which they
left the following inventory :
One pair of vases.
One pair of enamelled eagles.
One pair of double-enamelled vases.
One pair of carved scarlet lacquer boxes.
One pair of enamelled fish-jars.
Eight pieces of silk, of various colors.
Mr. Seward inquired of Mr. Low what would be a proper form
of acknowledgment. He replied: “ You cannot decline the present.
You can only send your card in return, and pay a Mexican dollar
to each coolie. Less than this you would be unwilling to ds. It
would be thought disrespectful to do more.”
The American and British missionaries, residing at Peking,
passed the afternoon with Mr. Seward. They leave on the minds
of our whole party an impression that they are earnest, true, and
good men and women. The labor which they are performing in
this benighted land fully justifies the Christian charity which has
sent them hither.
Ever since we came here, Mr. Seward and Admiral Rodgers
have been diligently laboring to ascertain the feasibility of a return
of our party by way of the Imperial Canal. The Government has
caused a report to be made to them on that subject. This paper
describes many breaches of the canal, but represents them as under-
going repair. The Government would provide for our security in
the journey, but no shorter period than three weeks would suftice
to make it in boats, while there would be many and long land port-
ages. It is almost certain that, within that time, it will be rendered
impassable by ice. The canal-voyage is therefore given up, though
not without much reluctance.
ase 2
CHAPTER XI.
THE RETURN T0 SHANGHAI.
Once more on the Pei-ho.—The Ladies at Tien-Tsin.—The Shan Tung.—Pigeon English,
—Tempestuous Weather.—Visit to the Flag-ship Colorado.—Departure of Mr. and
Mrs. Randall.—On board the Plymouth Rock.
Tung-Chow, November 22d.—How could we describe in writing
the parting at the legation, which allowed of no utterance!
We find at
Tung-Chow that our flotilla of little vessels, without a word of
Time, it seems, is not money in junk-navigation.
engagement or promise on our part, had waited nineteen days. It
has been speedily manned and victualled. Its sails are already
spread, our flags are unfurled, and we are once more afloat on the
Pei-ho.
Tien-Tsin requires only forty hours.
The weather is very cold, but the downward voyage to
Tien-Tsin, November 23d.—Could anybody ask a safer convoy
on a river-voyage than a rear admiral? Could anybody, needing
protection on such a voyage, do a wiser thing than trust such a
convoy ¢
“ All’s well that ends well;” but, could there be a better joke
than that which has occurred to us, under the practice of these prin-
ciples? Boat No. 2, bearing the two ladies, accidentally separating
from the fleet during the night, came up to the draw-bridge at
Tien-Tsin this morning, not only two hours before No. 4 and the
other boats, but even three hours before the flag-ship of our gallant
convoy. There
but there is als
those two hours
atmosphere, stc
was certainly ne
lot found them,
on board their s
a fire in their c
The deck is
nations—and. is
sume considera
ward way, dete
Thanks to ]
the welcome an
after the cold 1
thanks to Mr. §
voices after the
treading so lig
fervent than a
nice, little, rol
Hawes, back fir
vey us to that ¢
her last voyage
Taku, Nove
cross the bar.
what is called
here, it seems :
mistake. Nati
They do not m
cannot learn O
tion, but it ms
As “ charit:
one English w4
to the Chinese
English,” the
English.
Mr. and
vriting
find at
ord of
ys. It
ulready
on the
Ate
age to
convoy
ceeding
such a
or joke
se prin-
arating
dge at
nd the
gallant
‘“ PIGEON-ENGLISI.” 223
convoy. There is not only a time for every thing in this world,
but there is also a place for it; but, for those timid adventurers,
those two hours were not the time; and Tien-Tsin, with its murky
atmosphere, stolid crowds, and horrible associations of massacre,
was certainly not the place. Fortunately, the officers of the Ashue-
lot found them, opened the way through the draw-bridge, took them
on board their ship, and seated them, shivering as they were, before
a fire in their comfortable cabin.
The deck is completely enclosed with bunting—the flags of all
nations—and is prepared for a ball in honor of our arrival. The
sume considerations, which counselled us to self-denial on our up-
ward way, determined us to forego the pleasing compliment.
Thanks to Mr. Beebe, of the house of Russell & Company, for
the welcome and comfortable quarters, which we so much needed,
after the cold river-voyage. Thanks for his pleasant dinner, and
thanks to Mr. Seward and good Admiral Rodgers for lowering their
voices after the ladies had left the table, and to the whole party for
treading so lightly as they retired for the night. Thanks, more
fervent than all others, to the lucky star which has brought our
nice, little, rolling Shan Tung, and her spirited Yankee Captain
Hawes, back from Shanghai, just in time to meet us here and con-
vey us to that destination. Our last voyage on the Yellow Sea, and
her last voyage for the season.
Taku, November 24th—On board the Shan Tung, waiting to
cross the bar. Would anybody care to have an explanation of
what is called “pigeon-English?” ‘To the visitor, on his arrival
here, it seems an unnecessary and puerile affectation. Bui this is a
mistake. Native agents, servants, and factors, must be eniployed.
They do not understand any foreign language, and foreign residents
cannot learn Chinese. A dialect is needed for mutual communica-
tion, but it may be limited to the wants of commerce and service.
As “charity shall cover a multitude of sins,” so in this dialect,
one English word is made to cover a variety of things. ‘ Pigeon,”
to the Chinese ear, means, not the dove, but “business.” “ Pigeon-
English,” therefore, means “ business-English.” A few generic
224 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
names, without number, gender, or case, and a very few active and
auxiliary verbs, without variation of mood or tense, constitute the
whole vocabulary. “ Will this horse kick 4” In pigeon-English,
“ TTorse make kick?” ‘ Ask the consul to come here.”
In pigeon-
English it is, “ Catchee consul, bring come this side.” Report, in
pigeon-English, “No can catchee consul.” “ Bring the breakfast,
quickly,”—* Catchee chow-chow, chop-chop.”
A similar invention, though not so well perfected, is adapted to
facilitate intercourse between foreigners and natives in all newly.
discovered regions. The Indian tribes, on the North-American
Pacific coast, have a common jargon made up of only two hundred
words, a mixture of English, French, Spanish, Indian, ete. The
lingua franca of the Mediterranean, a jumble of French, Arabic,
Turkish, and Italian, is another such dialect. ‘* Pigeon-English” js
now regularly taught in Chinese schools. Since it is capable of in.
definite expansion, who shall say that, in the progress of time, a
complete language may not be built upon that narrow foundation?
Yellow Sea, off Shan Tung Promontory, November 28th.—The
Gulf Pe-chee-lee is a vixen, and the Shan Tung, in a gale, is a nui-
sance. Although the morning was soft and genial when we left
Taku, the sky darkened at ten, and in two hours we were rolling
and pitching under a severe nor’easter. Unable to land at Che-
Foo, we anchored for the night at Hope Sound. Resuming our
voyage, we arrived, at six the next morning, in the harbor of Che-
Foo. But a high sea would not allow us to disembark. The
weather has been intensely cold as well as tempestuous for two
days and nights, and there has been no rest or comfort. At two
o’clock yesterday afternoon, finding a smooth nook on the lce
shore, we came to anchor again, to afford, not passengers, but the
exhausted seamen, a night of rest. The storm has abated, and we
are now making rapid headway. .
Shanghai, November 30th.—Why take pains to say what every-
body may imagine—that we have come back to Shanghai weary,
or that Mr. and Mrs. Warden seem even kinder than before, or that
William Freema:
he thinks will er
Admiral Rodger
be denied the ple
pacified impatien
which came befo
an army for imm
ceive or meet Mi
December 5:
friends, visited
of Woo-Sung, w
on board the C
ever, could be ¢
of national colo)
afloat in her ste
and marines we}
men, in regulat
familiar acquait
blazing in the
front of them a
Ile waved us ¢£
alongside, and i
ard would rema
conveyed by the
And so it wi
places, Mr. Sew:
admiral; the m:
poured forth as
The officers
followed an ins}
order of an A
cabins, to whic
until the last gt
In taste for
confrere, the J
re and
te the
iglish,
igeon-
ort, in
akfast,
ted to
1ewly-
herican
nndred
The
Arabic,
sh” js
of in-
ime, a
lation ?
—The
5 a nui-
ve left
rolling
t Che-
ng our
f Che-
The
yr two
At two
he lee
ut the
nd we
every-
WeATY,
yr that
VISIT TO THE COLORADO, 225
William Freeman has laid in a stock of “ pigeon-English” which
he thinks will enable us to dismiss our Chinese servants, or that
Admiral Rodgers has determined that the Colorado shall no longer
be denied the pleasure of entertaining us, or that Mr. Seward has
pacified impatient friends and countrymen by contradicting rumors
which came before us—that the Chinese Government has organized
an army for immediate war, and that Prince Kung refused to re-
ceive or meet Mr. Seward in any way ?
December 5th.—Yesterday, Mr. Seward, attended by many
friends, visited the admiral’s flag-ship. Arriving in the harbor
of Woo-Sung, we preposed to go directly from our little yacht
on board the Colorado. No such hasty proceeding as this, how-
ever, could be allowed. The whole ship made gorgeous display
of national colors. The staff-officers, in brilliant uniforms, were
afloat in her steam-launch, and other boats awaiting us. Seamen
and marines were ranged on the deck. Six hundred officers and
men, in regulation attire, were drawn up in line. Our now
familiar acquaintances, the band, with their brass instrrements
blazing in the burning sun, stood on the quarter-deck; and in
front of them all was the admiral, tall, erect, and commanding.
IIe waved us a cordial and graceful welcome. The staff came
alongside, and informed us of the admiral’s request that Mr, Sew-
ard would remain on the yacht until the party should have been
conveyed by the launches to the Colorado.
And so it was done. When the party had been assigned proper
places, Mr. Seward, coming over the bulwarks, was received by the
admiral; the marines presented arms, the seamen saluted, the guns
poured forth a salvo, and the band played “ Tail to the Chief!”
The officers were then severally presented to Mr. Seward, Then
followed an inspection of the ship, which displayed the usual good
order of an American man-of-war. A feast was spread in the
cabins, to which we all sat down, The band continued playing
until the last guest retired from the table.
In taste for articles of wrtw, the admiral rivals his professional
confrere, the Duke of Edinburgh. Here we note, by way of
226 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
parenthesis, in China, which is the country of porcelain, that his
Wedgwood ware is the finest in the world.
A voyage under the soft moonlight brought us to the compound
at two o’clock.
Mr. and Mrs. Randall, greatly to our regret, being recalled
home, we part with them here.’
Shangh..", December Tth—We are preparing for an excursion
on the Yang-tse-kiang. The admiral and officers took final leave of
us to-day. After a pleasant dinner with Mr. and Mrs. Fraser, we
repaired, at eleven o’clock, on board the steamer Plymouth Rock.
On board the Plymouth Rock, December 8th.—After all, there
is something ina name. Plymouth Rock, a name identified with
the civiliz:tion of America, now employed to signalize an American
regeneration of China!
Laboulaye has written an ingenious book describing Paris in
America. Why shall we not, in ours, illustrate the United States
in China? The Plymouth Rock was built in our own country, and
is owned, managed, and sailed, by our countrymen. Such a prom-
enade-deck can be found on the great rivers and lakes at home;
but such a cabin, such a table, such baths, and such beds, can be
found nowhere. “Ve knew, when we looked about this morning,
that no Chirese steward, ncr maid-ser rant, if there be any such,
nor any American or European steward or stewardess, had ar-
ranged these homelike comforts. Though we saw no woman, we
knew, not only that a woman had been here, but that she lives here.
The captain’s wife, Mrs. Simmons, is absent for only a day or two.
The Hudson and the Mississippi are the only rivers in the world
where steamers carry as heavy freights as on the Yang-tse-kiang,
If the monopoly of this navigation by our countrymen serves to ex-
tend our national influence in China, it at the same time illustrates
the absurdity of the dear that the Chinese interest will become an
intrusive or dangerous element in the United States.
1 Auburn, July 26, 1872.—We record with deep sorrow the death of Mr. Randall.
He closed a life of eminent public service and private virtue, at his residence in Elmira,
yesterday, after his return to that place from a visit to Mr, Seward, here,
The Mississippi of
Tower.—A Spec
Kiang.—Conver
Ascent of the
Excursion to W
December 9t
tains of Thibet,
Siam, Burmah,
ing the Pacific
of nineteen ht
lengthen to th
not be longer tl
Missouri River
American rive’
course, it spree
name, takes on
In a distance
shrinks from a
the banks level.
At midnigl
southern termi
important tow:
lion. The met
heavy dew was
hat his
pound
recalled
cursion
eave of
hser, we
Rock.
l, there
ed with
nerican
Paris in
States
ry, and
a prom-
home;
, can be
orning,
Ly such,
had ar-
nan, we
es here.
or two.
e world
>-kiang,
S to ex-
strates
ome an
. Randall,
n Elmira,
CHAPTER XII.
UP THE YANG-TSE-KIANG.
The Mississippi of China.—Ching-Kiang.—Large Freights.—Nanking.—The Porcelain
Tower.—A Specimen Brick.—Abundance of Game.—Scenery on the River.—Ku-
Kiang.—Conversation with Mr. Drew.—Policy of the United States.—Han-Kow.—
Ascent of the Promontory.—Magnificent View.—Cheerful Aspect of Han-Kow.—
Excursion to Wco-Chang,.—A Disagreeable Adventure.
December 9th.—The Yang-tse-kiang has its sources in the moun-
tains of Thibet, side by side with those of rivers which flow through
Siam, Burmah, and Hindostan, into the Bay of Bengal. In reach-
ing the Pacific, it traverses the central region of China, a distance
of nineteen hundred miles, which the sinuosities of its course
lengthen to three thousand miles. Though this navigation may
not be longer than that of the Mississippi River, extended by the
Missouri River, the Yang-tse-kiang greatly surpasses the great
American river in depth, breadth, and volume. Often, in its
course, it spreads into broad bays or lakes, and, losing its own
name, takes on local ones, just as the mighty St. Lawrence does.
In a distance of eighty miles from the sea, the river gradually
shrinks from a breadth of some thirty miles to that of one mile—
the banks level, densely inhabited, and perfectly cultivated.
At midnight we fastened at the wharf of Ching-Kiang, the
southern terminus of the Imperial Canal. This populous and
important town was nearly destroyed during the Ta-ping rebel-
lion. The mercury had gone down to twenty-eight degrees. A
heavy dew was falling. It was no time to go ashore. Our captain
228 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
left on the wharf three thousand boxes and bales of merchandise,
ious ‘ a until the period
consisting of sugars from Southern China, and British manufac. P
orable as the va
carried the civil
the Porcelain T¢
ing emerald, an
looked upon Nar
bellishment of t
world. But all
lion, which ende
It seems alm
feel for civil wa
tured goods and opium from India—a large freight, considering
that the steamer is one of a daily line, and that the river is at
every point crowded with junks. It looks quite like home to see
the numerous and immense timber-rafts floating down from native
forests in Thibet.
What product does China need to make herself self-sustaining ?
The banks above Ching-Kiang rise to a height of one thousand
feet. Nanking, on the south side of the river, is in an amphitheatre
formed by those hills. This city has historical interest as the capital
invariably produ
dated wall, is litt
only recognized
commerce, but tl
land passengers.
alarge brick whi
Seward, thanking
“One of the
who, having a ho
as a sample; bu
thankful for a rel
Game is one ¢
over your head
adozen pheasant
of fowls in Wasl
son, or hare, tha
mals affect the so
here due to the g
December 10t
the river flows sv
FRIDGE AT NANKING, AND PORCELAIN TOWER BEFORE ITS DESTRUCTION,
tains, one called
this strait the r
bluffs like those
of the empire before the conquest of Kublai-Khan ; afterward it
was occasionally the residence of the Ming emperors. Nanking
became fainous, still later, as a commercial centre, and remained so r
tigher, another ¢
16
andise,
nutac-
dering
ris at
b to see
native
ining ?
ousand
theatre
capital
rward it
Nanking
ained so
CITY OF NANKING, 229
until the period of steam-navigation. Last of all, it became mem-
orable as the vantage-ground from which the Ta-ping insurgents
carried the civil war to the walls of Peking. The pagoda called
the Porcelain Tower, which, with its nine successive roofs of seem-
ing emerald, and the golden apple on its summit, at that time
looked upon Nanking, was justly admired, not only as a chief em-
bellishment of the great city, but as one of the wonders of the
world. But all this glory has passed away. The Ta-ping rebel-
lion, which ended only in 1864, proved destructive to Nanking.
It seems almost enough to excuse the dread which all nations
feel for civil war, when we contemplate the devastation which it
invariably produces. Nanking, within its fifteen miles of dilapi-
dated wall, is little else than a desolation. The Porcelain Tower is
only recognized by its debris. The port is not open to foreign
commerce, but the Government permits steamers to receive and
land passengers. A friend who came on board presented us with
alarge brick which he has taken from the ruined pagoda. Mr.
Seward, thanking him for it, said :
“One of the minor Greek poets ridicules as a simpleton a man
who, having a house to sell, went about showing one of its bricks
ag a sample ; but, insomuch as the Porcelain Tower is gone, I am
thankful for a relic of it.”
Game is one of the marvels of the country. On the river it is
over your head and under your feet—everywhere. You may buy
a dozen pheasants, ducks, or snipe, for less than the price of a pair
of fowls in Washington Market. You pay less for wild-boar, veni-
son, or hare, than for veal or mutton at home. Do these wild ani-
mals affect the society of semi-barbarian man, or is the abundance
here due to the great productiveness of the soil ¢
December 10th.—Two hundred and fifty miles above Nanking,
the river flows swiftly through a narrow gorge between two moun- ee
tains, one called the Eastern, the other the Western Pillar. Above aed
this strait the river winds, and is flanked on the right bank by
bluffs like those of the Mississippi and Missouri; a hundred miles
higher, another gorge; near the left bank, u conical islet, four hun-
16 .
dred feet high, |
the top, the side
Buddhist cloister
js named, in the
little town of T
undulating mow
the Po-vang, a Is
u do)
which, in some s
fifty miles by th
Four hundre
amile. The ba
depth, at this ses
LITTLE ORPHAN ISLAND. 231
dred feet high, rocky at the base, but smiling with vegetation at
the top, the sides indented with winding terraces bordered with
Buddhist cloisters, on the summit a picturesque pagoda. The rock
js named, in the chart, “ Little Orphan.” Opposite it is the pretty
little town of Tung-Lu, with a picturesque wall winding over the
undulating mountain-crest. Here the river receives the water of
LITTLE ORPHAN ISLAND.
the Po-yang, a lake with a circuit of one hundred and eighty miles,
which, in some seasons, is enlarged to an area of two hundred and
fifty miles by the overflow of the river.
Four hundred miles from the sea, the river has narrowed to half
amile. The banks on either side are crowded with villages; the
depth, at this season of low water, twenty-five feet ; swolien by the
232 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
winter floods, it is sixty. ‘arther upward, villages are less con.
spicuous; but temples and pagodas, at picturesque points, break
the monotony. One of these pagodas is a hundred feet high; all
are dedicated to the gods of the Winds and the Waves.
At sunset we came to Ku-Kiang, a port open to commerce, on
the south side of the river. The foreign settlement, though small,
is well arranged and conducted; the Chinese city is contracted
and meanly built, but busy. Mr. Rose, of the house of Russell
& Co., and Mr. Drew, deputy Chinese revenue commissioner,
received us,
Each of the treaty powers nominates to the Chinese Govern.
ment a certain number of persons to serve as such deputies, under
the superintendence of the inspector-general, Mr. Hart. These
deputies are expected to learn the Chinese language, laws, and cus-
toms. Mr. Drew is an American. While walking in the Bund,
he lamented to Mr. Seward that British prestige in China prevails
over that of the United States:
Mr. Sewarp: “ ‘To what do you attribute this advantage ?”
Mr. Drew: “ To the superior policy pursued by Great Britain,
That nation, as well as France, maintains a habit of demonstration
and menace; the United States a policy of forbearance and con-
ciliation.”
Mr. Sewarp: “These sentiments of your; harmonize with
those of most of our countrymen whom I have met in China,
How many foreigners cf all nations have you in Ku-Kiang ?”
Mr. Drew: “ Twenty-five.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ How many of these are Americans ?”
Mr. Drew: “ Two or three.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ The others, I suppose, are British and French,
with perhaps a German or two?”
Mr. Drew: “ Yes.”
Mr. Sewarp: “I understand that, while the foreign popula-
tion at Shanghai is two thousand five hundred, only fifty or sixty
of these are Americans ?”
Mr. Drew: “ Yes.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Have you observed that Great Britain, France,
PC
and Russia, maint
naval agents, in»
States as their na
dtizens from the 1
residing in China
Mr. Drew: *
Mr. Sewarp:
in China, to-day, :
ifthe United Stat
or menaced her in
Mr. Drew: “
Mr. Sewarp:
know of any outr:
have ever complai
redressed ¢ ”
Mr. Drew: “
Mr. Sewarp:
self in China an:
which the Chine
treaty, to the Uni
Mr. Drew: “
Mr. Sewarp:
and French presti
of recent growth.
civil war. You
(iovernment in tl
Government, und
Andrew Johnson
of war, against C
Mr. Drew: “
Mr. Sewarp:
provoke China by
that it would be vy
resort to any po
that the America
i policy of provo
8S con-
5, break
neh ; all
ree, on
1 small,
tracted
Russell
ssioner,
overn-
» under
These
and cus-
> Bund,
prevails
2”
Britain,
stration
nd con-
ze with
China,
99
4
French,
popula.
or sixty
France,
POLICY OF THE UNITED STATES. 233
and Russia, maintain in China diplomatic, consular, military, and
naval agents, in numbers as far exceeding those of the United
States as their national population resident here exceeds that of
citizens from the United States? In short, most of the Americans
residing in China are missionaries, are they not ?”
Mr. Drew: “ Yes.” ’
Mr. Sewarp: “Is it your opinion that there would have been
in China, to-day, any more American citizens than there are now,
ifthe United States had heretofore either waged war against China
or menaced her in any way ¢”
Mr. Drew: “ No.”
Mr. Srwarp: “You have been here many years. Do you
know of any outrage, or injury, or wrong, that the United States
have ever complained of, that the Chinese Government has left un-
redressed ¢”
Mr. Drew: “I know of none.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Has Great Britain or France secured to her-
self in China any political or commercial benefit or advantage
which the Chinese Government has not equally extended, by
treaty, to the United States ¢”’
Mr. Drew: “ No.”
Mr. Sewarp: “The complaints of the superiority of British
and French prestige over that of the United States in China are
of recent growth. They arose chiefly in the period of our late
civil war. You know little of the herculean difficulties of the
Government in that conflict. Do you think that the United States
Government, under the administration of Abraham Lincoln or of
Andrew Johnson, could have wisely made war, or demonstration
of war, against China ¢”
Mr. Drew: “ No.”
Mr. Sewarp: “Do you think that the United States ought to
provoke China by any act of injustice or wrong? Do you think
that it would be wise for the United States, without provocation, to
resort to any policy of menace or intimidation? Do you think
that the American people would support an administration in such
i policy of provocation or menace, now while they are submitting
934 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
a~_
to such high taxation to discharge the national debt incurred in g
civil war?”
Mr. Drew: “I think they would not.”
Mr. Sewarp: “One question more. Ifthe United States, dur.
ing the last twenty years, had pursued a policy of intimidation
toward China, do you think that they would have been able, at the
same time, to draw from this empire an emigration of seventy-five
thousand laborers to build the Pacific Railroad, and open the mines
in the Rocky Mountains ¢”
Mr. Drew: “T have not thought of that before.”
Mr. Sewarp: “ Well, Mr. Drew, I think we are obliged to con-
clude from all these premises that a policy of justice, moderation,
and friendship, is the only one that we have had a choice to pursue,
and that it has been as wise as it has been unavoidable.”
It is due to Mr. Drew to say that he had received his appoint.
ment to his present place from Mr. Seward as Secretary of State,
and that he presented the subject to that gentleman chiefly for the
purpose of ascertaining how far he had found cause to sympathize,
during his sojourn here, with the complaints of our countrymen.
Mr. Seward closed the conversation vy saying: “The United
States are a republic, an aggregation of thirty-seven republics. Of
the thirty-nine millions, which constitute the American people, less
than ten thousand dwell in foreign countries, and a smaller propor-
tion in China than in many other countries. The United States
cannot be an aggressive nation—least of all can they be aggressive
against China.”
We reached the steamer and the end of the discussion at the
same moment. This was our visit at Ku-Kiang.
Han-Kow, Sunday, December 11th.—At nine o’clock in the
morning of this blessed Sunday, our steamer forces her way to the
wharf through a fleet of a thousand Chinese vessels. These vessels
are coastwise junks, river-trading junks, market-junks, fishing-junks,
passage-junks, stationary storehouse-junks, dwelling-junks, and tay-
ern-junks. So, after a travel of four months and two days, we
have reached the centre of China. The Han, a large tributary, is
to the Yang-tse
fluence of the t
of these, Han-k
Han. Wu-Cha
two rivers. P1
settlement, hov
Marco Polo.
acity on the Y
He estimated i
city in which v
here before the
lion, estimated
the European 1
that the present
Kow may be c
ated tributaries
mineral, forest.
gions of the en
exchange throt
When one has
ceived why it
grossing the co
The port of
beautifully laic
spacious cnoug
number of forg
one of which ig
been disappoin|
because it ’.as
the native me
markets, and ¢
selves, enjoyin
aimed to secur
Noon.—W
ing the hospit:
red ing
tes, dur-
nidation
» at the
nty-tive
he mines
1 to con-
leration,
b pursue,
appoint:
ot State,
y for the
npathize,
ymen,
e United
lics. Of
ople, less
Y propor:
ed States
veressive
ym at the
k in the
ay to the
se vessels
ng-junks,
and tay-
days, we
yutary, is
CITY OF HAN-KOW. 235
to the Yang-tse what the Missouri is to the Mississippi. The con-
fluence of the two rivers makes the site for three large cities. Two
of these, Han-Kow and Han-Yan, are on the opposite banks of the
Han. Wu-Chang is on the Yang-tse, opposite the confluence of the
two rivers. Practically, the three constitute one city. The foreign
settlement, however, is established at Han-Kow.
Marco Polo, in the thirteenth century, found, in Central China,
acity on the Yang-tse, which he reported by the name of Kiu-sai.
IIe estimated its circuit at a hundred Chinese miles. This is the
city in which we now are. The good Abbé Tuc, who sojourned
here before the dark days of European invasion and domestic rebel-
lion, estimated the population of the city at eight millions. While
the European residents say that the abbé exaggerates, they insist
that the present population exceeds one million. The site of Han-
Kow may be compared to that of St, Louis. Through the attenu-
ated tributaries of the Yang-tse, Han-Kow gathers up agricultural,
mineral, forest, and manufactured products, from the western re-
gions of the empire, and distributes them by domestic and foreign
exchange through the ports of Tien-Tsin, Shanghai, and Canton.
When one has reached this commanding point, it is easily con-
ceived why it is that Shanghai, at the mouth, is so rapidly en-
grossing the commerce of the empire.
The port of Han-Kow was opened in 1861. The Concession is
beautifully laid out, and built up ina rich and costly style. It is
spacious enough for ten thousand inhabitants, while the present
number of foreigners is only fifty. There are six foreign houses,
one of which is American. The high expectations of increase have
been disappointed, not because the trade was misestimated, nor yet
because it ’.as failed, but, strange to say, only for the reason that
the native merchants have learned the respective wants of foreign
markets, and the ways of supplying them. They are now, them-
selves, enjoying the advantages which the European merchants have
aimed to secure.
Noon.—We live on shipboard, but we, nevertheless, are enjoy
ing the hospitalities of Mr. Fitz, at the house of Russell & Company
236 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
We attended service, this morning, at the Chapel of St. John the
Evangelist. It was built for the Church of England, but, having lost
its Government stipend, the congregation is unable to support a
pastor. Prayers were read by a Wesleyan missionary, an amateur
choir singing the beautiful chants and hymns in an admirable
manner.
December 12th.—In our exploration, yesterday afternoon, we
found that, although “some things can be done as well as others,”
there is, nevertheless, a “right way and wrong way” of doing
them.
Mr. Fitz inquired whether we would have chairs sent forw.rd
for our ascent of the promontory, at the junction of the two rivers,
The arguments against it were, that most persons prefer walking to
the hazard of being carried up the steep hill by coolies. Mr. Sew-
ard advised that chairs should be sent, to be used as we should find
need. The younger people promptly decided for themselves to dis-
pense with the luxury. We went up the river to the base of' the
promontory in a row-boat (sam-pan). Thence we made our way,
through a dirty and crowded suburb, up a flight of five hundred
stone steps. At this elevation, we found neither platform, bench,
nor stone, to rest on, but only another flight of two thousand stone
steps before us, with an inclination of forty-five degrees. Mr. Sew-
ard took the chair which he had so thoughtfully provided for him.
self, and, though his ascent seemed frightful to us, he was borne
quickly and safely to the top by two coolies, who neither stumbled
nor stopped to rest. The other members of the party followed
slowly, and reached the summit completely exhausted. Tere, we
availed ourselves of the resteratives of tea and rest, in a dingy
Buddhist temple. We might confess now that the view which
presented itself amply rewarded the painful efforts by which it was
obtained, if we could be quite sure that we should recover, in many
months, the muscular strength expended. On our right hand, the
Yang-tse, a mile wide, flowed with rapid current; on our left was
the Han, scarcely eighty feet broad, though its springs are a thou-
sand miles distant. The city of Han-Kow covers the banks of both
rivers at their ji
every year inw
refuge in boats.
looking down tl
enclosed in a n
opposite bank o
ples, universitie
capital of the ]
prospect to an h
base of gently-u
In contrast
three towns, we
the dwellings, 0
From our comm
ful estimate of t
ber of the inhab
dut this estimat
the water. It v
Owasco ILills in
either side, and
vessels of all si
channel of the
venture to set
Who will correc
We were to
in the Bund is
had so bravely
return to climb
carried with hir
December 12
in our sam-pan
entertainment o
the audience at
one rising aboy
unbroken lines
hn the
ing lost
port a
mateur
nirable
on, we
thers,”
' doing
forward
. Yivers,
king to
yr. Sew-
ald find
3 to dis-
> of the
ur way,
undred
_ bench,
id stone
ir. Sew-
or him-
s borne
umbled
ollowed
ere, we
v dingy
r which
h it was
n many
nd, the
left was
a thou-
of both
ASPECT OF HAN-KOW. 23
rivers at their junction; behind it spreads a vast, low, green marsh,
every year inundated, and often forcing the inhabitants to take
refuge in boats. At the base of the promontory on which we stand,
looking down the river, is the fresh-looking little city of Han-Yan,
enclosed in a neat though not formidable stone-wall; and, on the
opposite bank of the Yang-tse, crowded with pagodas, palaces, tem-
ples, universities, dwellings, barracks, and camps, is Wu-chang,
capital of the province of Hu-peh. A thin, blue haze limits the
prospect to an horizon in which a small and lovely lake flows at the
base of gently-undulating hills.
In contrast with other Chinese cities, Han-Kow, including the
three towns, wears a cheerful aspect. The strects are regular, and
the dwellings, of stone or adobe, are whitened with paint or lime.
From our commanding position we made an effort to secure a care-
ful estimate of the population. Our conclusion was, that the num-
ber of the inhabitants on land within the three cities is one million.
But this estimate left us all afloat as to the mass of the dwellers on
the water. It would be as easy to look from the high-road on the
Owasco Hills into the beech and maple forests, that border it on
either side, and count the trees, as it would be here to number the
vessels of all sizes which throw a dark shade across the narrow
channel of the Han, and over the left bank of the Yang-tse. We
venture to set down the population afloat at a hundred thousand.
Who will correct our estimate @
We were to dine with Mr. Fitz at seven o’clock, but his house
in the Bund is sixty feet above the river. The young people who
had so bravely stormed the promontory were only able on their
return to climb from the sam-pan to the steamer. Mr. Seward
carried with him their reluctant apologies.
December 12th, evening.—An excursion to Wu-chang. Sitting
in our sam-pan, we fortunately became spectators of a theatrical
entertainment on the bank of the river in Han-Kow. We estimated
the audience at four thousand,without seats. Standing in rows,
one rising above another on the steep declivity, they presented
unbroken lines of blue nankeen, yellow faces, and shaven heads,
Saal
Saat
1a =
238 JAPAN, OHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
The stage was without change of scene, or scenery of any kind,
There was no orchestra, but frequent rattling of gongs and drums
The performers were brilliantly dressed in yellow
on the stage.
So far as we could see, there was no breaking up of the
and red.
performance for time or place.
The actors gesticulated much and grotesquely, but they drew out
The whole ran on without pause,
pepe i SO RPI RC
<— - a
CHINESE THEATRICALS,
from the patient and delighted audience not one sign of applause.
We distinguished frequent battles and dances in the play, but the
After looking on for half an
When we returned three hours
dialogue was lost in the distance.
hour, we continued our excursion.
afterward, we found the performance still going on, with no per
ceptible change in either the actors or the audience.
Landing at
the city into t
ralled the “ Lit
Its story, thous
it into his head
ber of the drea
him the erectio
hear and obey.
We climbed th
confectionery a
In the
high, with lon;
story.
mustache, and -
he sits on the t
To speak the t1
aspect we have
court of a Con
and provisions,
blind, maimed
and found its v
‘ame out, the ¢
is no coin in C
to the dollar.
unaccustomed
became impor
had a few Eng
effect than ine
mence.
Our view 1
impressions wl
the previous dé
the landing-pl:
the first of that
river to Wu-cl
much curiosity
thousand stude
kind,
lrums
rellow
f the
pause,
W out
plause.
but the
half an
eo hours
10 per
CHINESE BEGGARS, 239
Landing at Wu-chang, we asceaded a promontory which divides
the city into two equal parts. <A bright and variegated pagoda,
called the * Little Stork,” graces the hill above the landing-place.
Its story, though modern, is characteristic: a little golden god took
it into his head one night to ride a snow-white stork into the cham-
per of the dreaming Taou-tai of the province, and demanded of
him the erection of a pagoda in this place. The Taou-tai said, “I
> and, when he wakened, “he went and did it.”
We climbed the winding staircase of this pagoda. Cakes, tea, and
confectionery are served, fortunes told, and * curios” sold in every
story. In the upper one is a statue of a little god, about five feet
high, with long, slender eyes, smooth black queue, black, waxed
mustache, and tunic of blue and gold. THe smiles complacently as
he sits on the back of a stork, carved in wood and painted white.
To speak the truth, he isa merry little god—the only one of that
aspect we have met. Leaving the pagoda, we passed through the
court of a Confucian temple, thickly crowded with sellers of fruit
and provisions, trinket-dealers, vagabonds and idlers, and lame,
blind, maimed and loathsome beggars. We looked into the temple,
and found its walls covered with texts of the classic books. As we
ame out, the crowd around us had formidably increased. There
is no coin in China but an iron one, of which a thousand pieces go
to the dollar. Of course, we had none of these. The beggars,
unaccustomed to being refused the pitiful alms they expected,
became importunate and impertinent. One of our servants, who
had a few English sixpences, emptied his pockets, without other
effect than increasing the number of mendicants and their vche-
mence.
Our view from the summit behind the temple renewed the
hear and obey,’
impressions which we had received on the opposite promontory,
the previous day. Resuming our chairs, we were on our return to
the landing-place on the river, when a painful adventure occurred,
the first of that kind in our travels. Foreigners seldom cross the
river to Wu-chang. Our visit was a novelty, there, and excited
much curiosity. The town contains a university in which ten
thousand students are gathered from the provinces, and it also has
240 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
a military school with a large garrison. These provincial schools
are distinguished for their bigotry and prejudice against foreigners,
Our friends, however, had not apprised us of these facts, nor had
they taken into consideration that our party contained two ladies,
who would be objects of special curiosity here, as they were on our
way to the Great Wall. A section of the crowd, which had been
following us, stopped on the brink of the hill, from which they
could look down on the winding path we were descending. One
of the ladies had left her chair, and was walking in advance. Mr,
Seward was in an elegant green chair with glass windows; the
other lady in a covered bamboo-chair behind.
thick struck the back window of Mr. Seward’s chair and shivered it
A stone six inches
A second, as large, entered the same window, and fell
A third stone struck the top of the last chair,
to pieces.
within the chair.
and crushed the frail top. The coolie bearers of the two chairs
stopped in a fright, and raised an outery, directed toward persons
on the top of the cliff. Well they might, for, if either of those
missiles had fallen on one of their naked heads, it would have
Happily the silken curtains of Mr. Seward’s chair
He instantly alighted and turned to find
proved fatal.
saved him from injury.
the assailant. The enemy had, however, fled in consternation from
the hill, and it remained to us only to exchange congratulations
upon our escape from a common danger. Though the people sur-
rounded us in masses, which rendered our passage through the
narrow streets tedious and difficult, they made no expression or
sign of unkindness or disrespect. Mr. Seward regards the assault
not as one of design or deliberation, but as the unpremeditated and
wanton act of rude and mischievous idlers. Nevertheless, the
gentlemen at Han-Kow have aidressed the Taou-tai on the subject.
Departure from Far
Canal.—Approa
down a Junk.—
—Embark on a1
Steamer Pl,
left the wharf at
ing to Shangha
lost to us by ni;
Kow are low ¢
mountains crow
December 1
approached Ki
that we gather
which we were
certain tall na
glazed crowns
vases and two |
friends at hom
milion, the oth
n At Zuaking
with a cupola «
of each ornam
military school
thools
ners,
* had
adics,
n our
been
they
One
Mr.
3 the
nches
red it
d fell
chair,
chairs
2rsons
those
have
- chair
0 find
1 from
ations
le sur-
rh the
on or
issault
1d and
8, the
ibject.
CITAPTER XIII.
RETURN TO SHANGHAI.
Departure from Han-Kow.—Chinese Military Art.—A Marvellous Echo.—The Imperial
Canal,—Approach to Chin-Kiang.—The United States Steamer Alaska.—Running
down a Junk.—An Apology from the Viceroy.—The Comprador.—Chinese Ladies.
—Embark on an English Steamer.
Steamer Plymouth och, Yang-tse-hiang, December 13th.—We
left the wharf at Han-Kow at daylight this morning, and in return-
ing to Shanghai we are expecting to enjoy, by daylight, the scenes
lost to us by night in ascending the river. The banks below Han-
Kow are low and flat, with a city at almost every bend, but the
mountains crowd closely on the plain.
December 14th.—Night and rain came down upon us as we
approached Ku-Kiang, but with only this pleasant consequence,
that we gathered at the dinner-table in our cabin the merry party
which we were to have met on the Bund. When they had retired,
certain tall natives of the country, of course olive-colored, with
glazed crowns and smoothly-braided queues, brought two garden-
vases and two baskets, each of the latter containing what our gentle
friends at home would pronounce “a love” of a tea-set—one ver-
milion, the other blue. Thanks to Mr. Rose.
At Zuaking is a gleaming white pagoda, one hundred feet high,
with a cupola of burnished brass. It has seven verandas, the roof
of each ornamented with bright, tinkling bells. At its base is
military school.
949 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
Certainly military art, the world over, delights in fine colors,
loud noises, and much demonstration. In the West, however, we
are abating color and noise, while we study to increase force. In
China, they reverse this. They do not improve their engines and
weapons; they make greater noise with their gongs and a more
dazzling display of yellow and red in their uniforms and flags than
ever. Naval junks meet us everywhere on the river. Though
diminutive in size, and carrying ordnance of the smallest calibre,
their bunting surpasses that of a Iudson River steamer going to
celebrate the Schiitzentest.
We have just passed a mountain-gorge which has a marvellous
echo. When we entered the pass, the reverberations were single,
Passing on, the shrill notes of the steam-whistle came back to us
prolonged and louder. Farther on, the mountains gave us back
two distinct sounds for each one they received; afterward three,
four, five for one. It was the perfection of ventriloquism. The
sounds were articulate; they seemed to come through the earth;
sometimes sonorous, at others soft and plaintive, always impres-
sive and mournful.
Chin-Kiang, December 15th.— Anchoring off the left bank of
the river in very deep water, and taking the ship’s boats, we made
an entrance, not without difficulty, into the Imperial Canal.
Take its story briefly, to understand better what little we saw:
Built in the thirteenth century, it is a monument equally of the
greatness and of the wisdom of Kublai-han. Its length is six
hundred and fifty miles, nearly twice that of the Erie Canal. De-
signed for irrigation as well as navigation, it varies in width from
two hundred feet to two thousand feet. It is not, like our canals,
built by excavation, but with artificial dikes raised on an alluvial
soil, its banks and bottom paved and cemented. Instead of locks,
there are inclined planes. Every abutment, flood-gate, and bridge,
is of solid granite masonry, The Imperial Canal, like the Erie
Canal, is not an isolated channel, but only the main artery of a
system of artificial navigation, the aggregate length of whiose
parts is four thousand miles, while they penetrate every one
colors,
er, We
e.
es and
, more
rs than
‘hough
calibre,
] ma
oOlng to
‘vellous
single,
k to us
us back
1 three,
n. The
» earth;
impres
yank of
ve made
we saw:
y of the
h is six
al. De-
Ith from
r canals,
alluvial
of locks,
1 bridge,
the Erie
tery of a
yf whose
rery One
0
vA
|
‘1
0a)
n
re
O
Z
¢
>
a
I
Z
(e)
SILVER ISLAND,
244 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
of the eighteen provinces of the empire. The canal is compactly
crowded with junks. We could not make our way into it a
yard’s length, without waiting for a movement of the vessels
for our accommodation. Our appeals to the boatmen for this
courtesy were not unkindly received, though the result was a
scene of wild and noisy disturbance. We soon became con.
vinced that, in our small boats, we were in danger of being
crushed between junks, even though nothing should occur to pro-
duce misunderstanding or disturbance. We returned, therefore,
to the ship’s deck, as cautiously as possible. In that position we
traced the course of the canal “high,” though not “dry,” above
ground four miles. The shipping through that distance was as
dense as at the mouth. The offices of the managers and toll-col-
lectors cover the banks, while an armed fleet rides at the mouth of
the canal to prevent piracy and smuggling. We learn here that
obstructions render the canal impassable for the aggregate extent
of one hundred and fifty miles. Even the navigable portions are
so much injured as to float only small vessels. The largest we saw
are of one hun red and fifty tons burden.
Three months ago, when a foreign war was apprehended, an
engineer submitted to the Government a project for resturing the
navigation, but elicited no reply. There is little dowbt that the
canals of China, the most successful and magnificent system of in-
g into decay and
©
land navigation the world has ever seen, are fallin
ruin.
The approach to Chin-Kiang is very picturesque. It stands on
a semicircular bay—the western entrance guarded by Golden ‘sl-
and, on which stand a Buddhist temple and a pagoda—the eastern
entrance by Silver Island, its undulating surface embellished with
tea-houses and villas.
December 16th, 4 o’cloch.—We are passing from the broad
estuary into the Woosung. I*arewell, Yang-tse, worthy, from thy
length and breadth, to be called “Son of the Sea,” though thie
critics learned in the Chinese 'anguage deny thee that significant
appellation, and mention that Yang-tse means something else.
Shanghai, L
passed the Colo
Shanghai, the P
among the fore
around her in all
awaiting a laun
steamship-of-war
were in the act o
deck, she rode ov
cross her bow.
appeared on eithe
junk was freigh
clinging to the s
struggling in the
gines, threw out
nately, at that m
foreed by Chine:
mable to discove
saddened our retu
December 1%t
survivors of the y
plaiits against thd
is engaged in exa
captain of the Al
the bar before eb}
had time to clear
track, they espie
alarm lest they q
their course and fe
We have arra
Shanghai, Dec
to H. E. Hobson,
“Tam in reed
visited Wu-Chang
17
SHANGHAI. 245
actly Shanghai, December 16th, night.—Quite to our surprise, we
it a passed the Colorado, still at her anchorage. As we approached
Keane Shanghai, the Plymouth Rock took a berth far out in the stream
> die among the foreign shipping, busy junks and sam-pans darting
ee around her in all directions. While standing on the steamer’s deck
un awaiting a launch to convey us to the bank, the United States
being steamship-of-war Alaska came rapidly down the aver As we
) pro- were in the act of exchanging compliments with the officers on her
efore, deck, she rode over a Chinese junk which was madly attempting to
ni ee eross her bow. An instant afterward the two parts of the junk
ahs appeared on piten side of the iron-clad. With how many lives the :
ia ae junk was freighted we could not know, but we saw living men
Heieh dinging to the sundered parts of the wreck, and other living men
ath of struggling in the water. The Alaska ;romptly reversed her en-
» that . gines, threw out life-preservers and lowered her boats. Fortu-
aetan' nately, at that moment, a steam-launch from the Colorado, reén-
wi ane forced by Chinese sam-pans, went to the rescue, but we were
unable to discover with what success. The painful incident has
saddened our return to Shanghai.
Ve Saw
ed, an : :
December 17th.—We learn from the consul-general that the
ng the
5 * a ° .
survivors of the wrecked junk hastened to the consulate with com-
at the
6b ih plaints against the Alaska, and that he, as well as Admiral Rodgers,
ay and isengaged in examining the circumstances of the collision. The
te c .
captain of the Alaska represents that he was hastening to get over
a Pere the bar before ebb-tide ; that the junk was crossing his bows, and
5
aa had time to clear herself, but that, as her erew advanced on their
ay isle
track, they espied the Plymouth Rock coming up, and, taking
astern : lid sf
LA eet arm lest they should come under her wheels, they stopped in
their course and fell under the keel of the Alaska.
We have arranged to sail for Hong-Kong on the 22d.
broad : . ; ; are “ a }
Sei: Be Shanghai, December 19th.—Le-ming-Che, Taou-tai of Han-Kow, om <4
ah ihe to H. E. Hobson, assista:.t in charge Han-Kow customs:
g
“Tam in receipt of your note informing me of your having
visited Wu-Chang, with a party among whom was his Excellency ;
17
\ificant
Be.
246 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
William If. Seward, on which occasion you were assailed by a
disorderly mob of boys, and your sedan-chairs broken. The pro.
ceeding was most indecorous. I am intensely grieved that. his
Excellency, the American Secretary, should have met with such an
insult on the occasion of his visit. I respectfully request you to
convey to his Excellency my profound regret for what has taken
place. Ihave duty instructed the Wu-Chang magistrate to issue
i
proclamations to prosecute the offenders.
“ Intercalang, tenth moon, twenty-first day.”
Shanghai, December 20th.—The comprador, in China, is a char.
acter as incomprehensible as important. Le is a native trained in
accounts and trade. Employed by the foreign hongs (mercantile
houses) as book-keeper and accountant, he adds to these functions
that of the broker, who buys for the firm, and makes all its sales,
In these transactions, he receives commissions from both parties,
What is more singular is, that he maintains this duplicity of rela-
tions without suspicion of dishonesty. The comprador does not
confine himself to mere trade, he is indispensable in all domestic
and social transactions. Ie negotiates marriages between parties
who never know nor see each other until the contract is completed.
Russell & Company’s comprador, to-day, paid his annual visit to
Mr. Warden at the Compound. He brought his wife and her two
handmaidens, presenting the latter, however, as his wives, numbers
three and four; apologizing for number two, who remained at
home. Also, two daughters-in-law, one child, and six attendants.
The women, of course, came to pay their respects to Mrs. Warden.
The comprador desired to make his homage to Mr. Seward, and the
women requested an introduction to the ladies of his party. There
was difficulty, at first, about the women coming into Mr. Seward’s
presence, but it was overcome. The wives and the boy shook
hands with us quite in the American way, but evidently not with-
out concern for their finger-nails, some of which were quite as long
as the fingers that bore them, They were elegantly dressed, wear-
ing a profusion of jewels, and were very timid. As they spoke no
English, and we no Chinese, nothing remained for them but to
study our dres
cles of vertu |
those on the f
The grand stair
tiny feet, each 1
must not be ar
“such a gettin
been amusing,
thorough and 1
they descended
They then liste
Calling, then, fo
less to describe,
mysteries and at
visit, the eompr
children with al
key-eock, As w
our arms, up and
voiced ind¢ed,
pendence was to
the abasement of
Steamer Traj
attended us to th
balconies, the eo
For the first ¢
Travancore, nan
of Malabar, bele
steamers, usual]
The familiar
She had sailed,
pressing our reg
passed the bar.
tg-ship before
streamers flying,
every yard fully
l by a
le pro-
iat his
uch an
you to
> taken
tO issue
a char-
ined in
reantile
nctions
its sales,
parties,
of rela-
loes not
lomestic
1 parties
mpleted.
visit to
her two
munbers
ained at
tendants.
Warden.
1, and the
. There
Seward’s
OY shook
not with-
e as long
sed, wear-
sy] ike no
m but to
THE CHINESE COMPRADOR. 247
study our dresses and ornaments, as well as the furniture and arti-
cles of vertu in the drawing-room. When they had exhausted
those on the first-floor, they desired to explore the second story.
The grand stairway is broad and easy, but, as all these women have
tiny feet, each required a strong arm in making the ascent, but that
must not be a man’s arm. The ladies, therefore, offered theirs, and
“such a getting up-stairs, you never did see!” It would have
been amusing, if it had not been really dangerous. After a
thorough and minute inspection of the upper part of the house,
they descended the staircase with much nervous apprehension.
They then listened wonderingly to our music on the piano-torte.
Calling, then, for their gorgeous sedan-chairs, they retired, doubt-
less to describe, to their small-footed and long-fingered friends, the
mysteries and absurdities of Western fashions. During their entire
visit, the comprador had directed the movements of his wives and
children with all the vigilance and conscious superiority of a tur-
key-cock. As we assisted the women, or rather carried them in
our-arms, up ana down the staircase, bright-eyed, gentle, and sweet-
voleed indced, but dwarfed, distorted, and enslaved, their de-
pendence was touching. We had not before realized the depth of
the abasement of women in China.
Steamer Travancore, China Sea, December 22d.—Many friends
attended us to the steamer, and kindly signals were made to us from
¢
balconies, the consulate, and the shipping in the harbor.
For the first time in our travels, we are on a foreign deck. The
Travancore, named from a province in British India, on the coast
of Malabar, belongs to the “ Peninsular and Oriental” line of
steamers, usually abbreviated the “ P. and O.”
The familiar berth of the Colorado, at Wusung, was vacant.
She had sailed, an hour before, for Nagasaki. We were still ex-
pressing our regret that we were to see her no more, when we
passed the bar. Standing southerly, however, we saw the majestic
flag-ship before us, at rest in the open sea, with all her flags and
streamers flying, the admiral and officers on the quarter-deck, and
every yard fully manned. Three hearty cheers greeted us from her
248 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
six hundred seamen, her colors dropped, officers and men saluted
us, and the faithful band gave us for farewell the same old national!
‘ 5) Cc a a
ich i fe somi 0 Chinese waters,
air with which it had greeted us on coming into Cl
xr flags, ¢ very officer and passenve
The Travancore lowered her flags, and ev si cae ; : 6
joi i cnowledgi 41 yal demonstration of the
joined us in acknowledging the kind and loyal dex ¢
Colorado.
Bad Weather.—Cold
Hong-Kong.—Be
eign Population.
On board th
more of the Ch
Sea of Jupan, tl
ay of Yeddo, «
A bleak nor
tothe cabin as g
during the day,
seas rougher, anc
ing. This cold
the high winds q
equally oblige fe
happened that y¥
narrow sea divid
continent. No
surrounded with
SCENE ON THE IMPERIAL CANAL,
We mark a1
men, on the Pad
are in the coastw
oly is broken he
showed many vy
saluted
ational
waters,
ssengel
n of the
CHAPTER XIV.
FROM SHANGHAI 10 HONG-KONG.
Bad Weather.—Cold Weather.—Variety of Seamen.—The Ship’s Accom sda‘‘*ns.—
Hong-Kong.—Beautiful Scenery.—Old Acquaintances renewed.—Native a» For-
eign Population.
On board the Travancore, Christmas-Day, 1870.—Gie us no
more of the China Sea; give us, instead, the Pacif'+ Ocean, the
Sea of Jupan, the Yellow Sea; give us any water, if it be not the
Bay of Yeddo, and any Gulf, but the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee.
A bleak northeaster, with rain, wind, and darkness, drove us
to the cabin as soon as we had parted with the Colorado. When,
during the day, the decks dried, the winds grew higher and the
seas rougher, and we have remained prisoners below, until the morn-
ing. This cold weather, on the verge of the tropics, is a surprise ;
the high winds compel the native shipping to hug the coast, and
equally oblige foreign vessels to keep away from it. Thus, it has
happened that we have seen neither ship nor coast, although a
narrow sea divides the great island of Formosa on our left from the
continent. Now that we are approaching Hong-Kong, we are
surrounded with native craft.
We mark a new phase in this navigation. We found the sea-
men, on the Pacifie mail-steamer China, chiefly Chinese; so they
are in the coastwise trade of the Yellow Sea. This Chinese monop-
oly is broken here. At the ship’s muster this morning, the ranks
showed many variations of physiognomy, with all shades of dark
complexion,
yellow Chinese
Hindoos, almost
hair; and stror
South Africa.
less diverse.
Mohammedans.
of faith, as well
dress as on sh
week-days, whic
ton trousers an
sashes, and tur!
embroidered, secs
white shirts, an
the gayest of co
The ship’s a
of the Pacitic 1
Though the tab!
and the linen is
ofticers and seat
ITong-Kongq,
Great Britain he
It rises more al
in the West Inc
We anchor
shipping here t
the hill-sides 5
structure of th
in the harbor, v
mas-greens. Vj
tive here of Ri
princely house.
been kindled tl
ing escaped at
memoranda, sift
ARRIVAL AT HONG-KONG, 251
complexion, Of Europeans there are none; besides the light-
yellow Chinese, there are the darker Malays; small but active
Hindoos, almost black, with perfect Caucasian features and curling
hair; and strongly-built, heavy-featured, coal-black negroes from
South Africa. The languages and religions of the crew are not
less diverse. There are Bramins, Buddhists, Confucians, and
Mohammedans. While uniform discipline is enforced, difterence
of faith, as well as of diet and costume, is tolerated. The Chinese
dress as on shore. The Hindoos wear a gay cotton blouse, on
week-days, which they exchange on holidays for tightly-fitting cot-
ton trousers and blouses of the same material, scarlet or crimson
sashes, and turbans. The Hindoo boatswain adds to this a gilt-
embroidered, scarlet vest. The Malays wear calico pantaloons, with
white shirts, and the negroes, here as everywhere else, indulge in
the gayest of colors.
The ship’s accommodations do not compare favorably with those
of the Pacific Mail Line, but here disparaging criticism must end.
Though the table is frugal, the wines and provisions are of the best,
and the linen is unimpeachable. The service is punctual, and the
officers and seamen are courteous and watchful.
TTong-Kong, December 26th.—ong-Kong is an island, which
Great Britain has conquered, and commands the entrance of Canton.
It rises more abruptly from the water than the island of St. Thomas
in the West Indies.
We anchored at three o’clock yesterday. There is far less
shipping here than at Shanghai. The terraces which wind around
the hill-sides show distinctly in bold outline every dwelling and
structure of the European town, which, as well as the foreign ships
in the harbor, was yesterday gayly decorated with flags and Christ-
mas-greens. We were received by Mr. Murray Forbes, representa-
tive here of Russell & Company, at Kee-Chung, the name of their
princely house. We found fire on the hearth, the first which has
been kindled this season, and the people here are rejoicing in hav-
ing escaped at last the intense heat of summer. We make these
memoranda, sitting in a deep window of this great, old-fashioned
252 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
dwelling, shadowed by the mountain-summit, while an unclouded
morning sun brings the town below into broad relief, and beyond
it the deep, blue bay dotted with diverse shipping. <A high, red,
rocky coast bounds the prospe*t. Imagine such a picture as we
have tried to present, seen as we are secing it through a frame.
work of palmetto, banyan, camphor, and acacia trees, and you haye
Hong-Kong.
December 27th.—Resting, Mr. Seward has exchanged visits with
the Governor of Hong-Kong, and the United States consul, Mr,
Bailey. We are renewing old acquaintances with countrymen
and countrywomen. Our departure for Singapore is fixed for the
3d of January. We need, therefore to improve our few remain-
ing days in China.
The British found five thousand natives on the north end
of the isiand. Under the rule of Great Britain, they are now a
busy and prosperous community, numbering forty thousand engaged
in trade and the fisheries. The foreign population is perhaps one
thousand.
TRADING-JUNK.
The Chinese Coastir
Canton.—The IL
Taou-tai.—The |]
Canton,
Canton, De
whee! steamers
Kong and Mae
and Mong-Kons
eastern coast.
We oceupiec
the Kin-San, w
chiefly traders,
ninety miles.
collection of dc
coins were gent
deficiency was
native trader, w
into the water 5
in every cas
picked up this
us that the bun
Another trader
who was waitir
ouded
yeyond
h, red,
as we
frame-
u have
ts with
wl, Mr.
rymen
for the
‘emain-
th end
now a
ngaged
ps one
CHAPTER XV.
FROM HONG-KONG TO CANTON.
The Chinese Coasting-Trade.—Chinese Smugglers.—Canton River-Banks.—Aspect of
Canton.—The British Concession.—The American Hongs.—The Consul and the
Taou-tai.—The Diet of the Cantonese.—Manufactures of Canton.—The Temples of
Canton.
Canton, December 28th; Steamer Nin-San.—American side-
whee! steamers carry the foreign coasting-trade between Hong-
Kong and Macao westward, Hong-Kong and Canton northward,
and Hong-Kong, Swatow, Amoy, Ning-po, and Too-Choo, on the
eastern coast.
We occupied, with two friends, the saloon and upper cabins of
the Kin-San, while the lower deck bore four hundred Chinese,
chiefly traders, who pay a fare of a Mexican dollar for a voyage of
ninety miles. The purser brought us the box which contained the
collection of dollars for this voyage. Many were rejected. The
coins were genuine, but almost every piece had been clipped. The
deficiency was made up in “cash.” From the deck, we noticed a
native trader, who at intervals advanced to the bulwark, and threw
into the water small bunches of hay and straw. We observed that,
in every case, natives rowed from the shore in small boats, and
picked up this refuse. Our friends, who knew the trick, informed
us that the bundles of hay and straw contained packages of opium.
Another trader dropped a sealed bottle into the river. A partner,
who was waiting on the bank, took it up and found in it the prices
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA
254
current of opium at London. Smuggling wears only this thin
covering in China.
Our course fer forty-five miles—half our voyage—lay among sca-
islands, giving us only occasional glimpses of the main-land. We
then entered the narrow channel of the deep river, promiscuously
ealled the Nerta and the Canton. The banks are lined with the
“ Bogue” torts, before the “Opium War” regarded by the Chinese
as a relinble defence. The victors stipulated that these forts shall
not again be garrisoned. They are now falling into ruin. Thus
Canton, the southern capital of China, is absolutely defenceless, with
a British naval and military station at its very door. Might not
Christian merchants in the East be content with this? Whampoa,
some fifteen miles Lown the river, is the outpost of the foreign trade
varried on at Canton. The river-banks below Whampoa are dull
and monotonous. Above that place they present scenes of tropical
Juxuriance and beauty. The valley expands, and is covered with
sugar-plantations, banana and orange groves, and the surrounding
hi lis are crowned with pagodas. Canton stands on the right bank
of the river, but projects in long suburbs over the opposite shore,
Neither Nagasaki, nor Yokohama, nor Osaka, nor Han-Kow, nor
Tien-Tsin, nor Shanghai, nor Hong-Kong, nor Peking, gives the
stranger so effective an impression of a great city.
We moored at the wharf in the midst of a floating city of three
hundred thousand souls. Canton, like the surrounding provinces,
is traversed by canals, which bring to its wharves passengers in
immense numbers from all parts of the empire. The inventive
talent, as well as the frugality of the Chinese, is in nothing more
conspicuous than in the provision which is made for these wayside
travellers. There are blocks and streets of gayly-painted and deco-
‘ated floating inns or taverns, shops for supplying all wants with-
out the delay and cost of going ashore. Our passage through these
winding streets and alleys gave us some odd revelations of marine
life. All manner of domestic occupations are carried on without
fear of annoyance, or affectation of privacy. Chins are shaven,
queues are plaited, dinners are cooked and served, clothes are made,
washed, and mended, children are dressed, whipped, and put to
bed, that is to
their waists, ar
Even * field-sp
kind is the ch
spitted, and pu
by women and
of a large class.
Our party |
tions. The y
crossed the riv
shell, and sand
ments of gold,
visited the Brit
more exquisite
ment more spa
Hong-Kong al
foreign hongs,
club-house wit]
promenade, ha
in the name of
The Amery
& Company,
within the Bri
have rebuilt th
cession, and w
December §
resided here n
assistance in tl
Meantime,
ard would est¢
Taou-tu. of th
remitted to tl
sive answer:
“Th answ
IT, Seward, fo
lously
th the
hinese
shall
Thus
8, with
ht not
AM poa,
1 trade
re dull
ropical
d with
unding
it bank
> shore.
IW, Hor
ves the
f three
yVINCes,
gers in
ventive
g@ more
wayside
d deco-
ts with-
hh these
marine
without
shaven,
e made,
put to
THE TOU-TAI'S NOTE. 255
bed, that is to say, laid on a mat and fastened with a cord around
their waists, and tied to a mast to keep them from falling overboard.
Even “field-sports” are not wanting. A favorite exercise of this
kind is the chase of the wharf-rat. We saw one caught, skinned,
spitted, and put on charcoal, This amusement is pursued chiefly
by women and chiidren, The fishing with cormorants is a vocation
of a large ciass.
Our party had no sooner reached shore, than it broke into fae-
tions. The younger members extemporized a guide and_ boat,
crossed the river, and were soon lost in studying carved ivory,
shell, and sandal-wood boxes, pagodas and _ toilet-cases, and orna-
ments of gold, silver, jasper, and jade. Mr. Seward, more politic,
visited the British Concession. If they found the fabries of Canton
more exquisite than they had imagined, he found the foreign settle-
ment more spacious and elegant than the people of Shanghai and
Hong-Kong allow it to be. There are thirty or forty spacious
foreign hongs, an Episcopal church, built of white marble, and a
club-house with a good library and billiard-room; on the bank,
promenade, handsomely-ornamented with gardens, which rejoices
in the name of Cha-min (Sand-tace).
The American houses, Russell & Company and Smith, Archer
& Company, finding that the acquisition of title by Americans
within the British Concession was attended with some uncertainty,
have rebuilt their old factories in the Chinese city outside the Con-
cession, and we are here the guests of those well-known hongs.
December 29th.—Archdeacon Grey is a philo-Chinese. Ue has
resided here nineteen years, and he kindly offers us his invaluable
assistance in the exploration of Canton.
Meantime, the United States consul, anticipating that Mr. Sew-
ard would esteem it an act of becoming courtesy to call on the
Taou-ti’ of the province, addressed a note to that functionary. He
remitted to the consul the following well-argued and most conclu-
sive answer:
“Tn answer to your note stating that the Monorable William
I, Seward, formerly Secretary of State, having visited Peking, and
256 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
called at the foreign office there, had arrived in Canton, and pro-
posed to appoint a time to call, etc., I have to say that, considering
his Honor Seward has laid aside his office, and therefore there can
be no consulting upon public business, and as the foreign office has
sent no notice of his coming, it is not convenient for us to see and
look each other in the face.
“Please inform his Honor Seward, the great officer, that it will
be of no use to come to my office. This reply with my best compli-
ments, my name and my card.”
The consul, we know not how justly, attributes this decision of
the Taou-tai to a public misunderstanding between himself and that
officer, which had arisen before our arrival—the Taou-tai fearing
that an interview with Mr. Seward might produce some popular
jealousy.
Canton is a sphinx, serenely indulging in calm recollections, and
seeming to smile with equal contentment on time and change. We
have interrogated it. How shall we be able to record its responses,
The city covers a very large plain. Some of the streets are ten
feet wide, they average seven; all irregular and without a plan,
They are travelled chiefly on foot, but almost everywhere sedan-
chairs can be used. Paved with flat granite blocks, the sewerage
is concealed, and in this one Chinese city there is no want of publi
cleanliness. An untidy person is as rarely seen in the streets he:
as a tidy one in the streets of Peking or Han-Kow. Occasionally,
we passed a dwelling, palatial in its dimensions and embellishment,
but, generally speaking, the city presents merely a mass of shops,
The floors are on a level with the streets, the houses without veran-
das or porches, and entirely open in front. The buildings are
narrow, usually of one story, often twenty feet high, and each
has an attic. It isa Chinese proverb that “ ill-luck follows ridge-
beams which connect with each other in a continuous line,”
Hence the roofs are of unequal height, and the boards which pro-
ject from them over the streets, to protect travellers from the sun
and rain, are irregularly placed. The material of the fragile walls
is dark-brown brick. Every one knows that the Chinese write from
right to left, and in downward columns, ‘The sign-boards, painted
pro-
ering
e can
e has
2 and
t will
mpli-
mn of
1 that
aring
bpu lar
s, and
We
Ses,
re ten
plan.
edan-
erage
oubli
he:
nally,
ment,
shops.
Crane
‘sS are
each
ridee-
line.”
) pro-
e@ sull
walls
from
inted
CANTON.
STREET IN
258 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
in rich vermilion or gilded on dark blue, instead 9! Seiig uorizontal,
haug perpendicularly, everywhere obstructing the passeuger. Che
shops are gorgeously ornamented. IHelmbold’s patent-medicine
shop on Broadway would not be out of place here. ‘There are no
street monuments. The streets are often short and curved, they
branch at all angles, and sometimes are continued through very
narrow gates or mere door-ways. It thus happens that there is no
lony vista, and Canton is a labyrinth, which only one who is prae-
tised therein can thread. It is divided into quarters for the avcom-
modation of divers kinds of business more completely than any
European city. Bankers have their exclusive Wall Streets; the
mereantile shops are in districts removed from manufactories ; ei-
broiderers, silk-weavers, cotton-weavers, lapidaries, jewellers, and
carvers, have separately their own quarters, Only vegetables,
fruits, fish, meat, poultry, and game, are displayed everywhere.
The dwellers in Canton are epicureans. They have fish from
the rivers and fish from the sea—veal, mutton, venison, pigs, kids,
ducks, geese, grouse, pheasants, quails, and ortolans. Whatever
they can serve you at the Astor-Eouse, you can command here—
ay, more than ean be found or the Astor-House carte ; for, in the
midst of the tempting display i. the provision-shops, are seen the
carefully-dressed carcasses of infinite rats and unmistakable saddles
of dogs, while here and there you netice in the shop-windows a
placard which announces that “black eat is served hot, at all
hours.” A decoction of sna..* \s sold as a medicine. As we were
passing a small lake, a bey .a our traim waded waist-deep and
brought out a water-snake. We urged him to throw the un-
fortunate reptile back, but he declined, and, bruising its head, he
put his finger to his mouth by way of informing us that it was to
be his supper.
Rope is made here by the same process as among us, but a
greater variety of materials is used. Besides hemp, they work
bamboo, ratan, and tanned and untanned hides.
A primitive process is resorted to in bleaching. The operator
tukes clean water by the mouthful and spurts it over the fabri.
Calendering is done as it was in Europe before the invention of
yioderi inaehir
the operative r
We entered a
moves each of:
and the enimal
the winnowing
No strange
artistic product
suitable for a d
offered him at |
It can harc
sitks in China
loom. The w
loom, with the
insist here that
to the silk. {§
This toilsome
men, instead of
countries. W
have a fabulous
Lacquer-wa
This is the pro
wood or veneel
and ont with s¢
glutinous solut
of pulverized ¢
This granite ]
lacquering beg
India in earthe
to the air, it 4
rush and left
on, sometimes
proverb that ‘
lacquering is
and gold, tak
perforated pap
bre No
, they
very
is no
prac-
ecom-
m any
33 the
+s eln-
, and
fables,
e,
from
3, kids,
atever
1ere—
in the
en the
uddles
lows a
at all
e were
Pp and
ie un-
rad, he
Was to
but a
work
erator
fabrie,
tion of
IUER-WARE, 259
ioderm amachinery. The cloth is passed under a stone roller which
the operative rocks with his fect. The gloss prodiced is unequalled.
We entered a flouring-mill—a blinded cow, at the end of a shat,
moves each of the seven pairs of stones. The operation is perfect,
and the xnimals seem sound and healthy. The human foot moves
the winnowing and bolting processes.
No stranger could conceive the excellence or the cheapness of
artistic production. Myr. Seward, fancying a carving of sandal-wood
suitable for a door-way, valued it at three hundred dollars. It was
offered him at sixteen !
It can hardly be believed that the extensive manufacture of
silks in China is carried on without the use of the “ Jacquard”
loom. The workshop is without a floor. The primitive hand-
loom, with the operator’s bench, is placed in an excavation. They
insist here that the moisture of the ground imparts a porcelain gloss
to the silk. Silk-embroidery is the most important manufacture.
This toilsome and exhausting labor is performed exclusively by
men, instead of being devolved on delicate women, as in European
countries. We bought, at nominal prices, articles which would
have a fabulous value at home.
Lacquer-ware is made, though less extensively than in Japan.
This is the process: A frame of the required artic!e is made of thin
wood or veneering perfectly seasoned. This frame is covered inside
and out with soft silk-paper, made to adhere smoothly by use of a
glutinous solution. When the paper has perfectly dried, a coating
of pulverized granite, mixed in a fine oil, is spread over the surface.
This granite paste hardens in its turn, and now the process of
lacquering begins. The lacquer is a vegetable juice imported from
India in earthen jars, and, when fresh, is milk-white ; wien exposed
to the air, it thickens and becomes black. It is applicd with a
rush and left to dry. Ne less than eight successive coats are put
on, sometimes more. The Chinese, in speaking of a fool, use the
proverb that “he wants the ninth coating of laequer.” After the
laequering is completed, the ornamentation, usually in vermilion
and gold, takes place. Professional artists make the designs in
perforated paper.
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
260
A large district in the city is devoted to the manufacture and
A Chinese gallant, speaking of a lady,
We thiled to understand the
sale of ornaments in jade.
says she is “as beautiful as jade.”
secret of its value until informed of the firmness of its texture. A
piece of this stone, weighing five pounds, has the dull appearance
ofa common pebble. It is sawed into plates of the required thick-
After this, turning.
With these it is
shaped into finger-rings, ear-rings, bracelets, bangles, buckles, cups,
ness by the use of a fine wire moved by hand.
lathes and lapidaries’ instruments are employed.
vases, and the like. The best jade is that which shades from milky
white to clear green,
We notice that women of the higher class wear a kind of orna-
ment peculiar to Canton. It consists of a head-dress or cap, brace-
lets or tinger-rings, made of filagree gold, delicately enamelled with
the blue kingfisher’s feathers, and heavily studded with pearls and
gomis.
Among temples, we visited first that of Pak-tai (the Dragon), «
Taouistic deity. The dragon is one of’ the sacred emblems of China.
Before that emblem stands a shrine, and below this a living rep-
resentative of the monster in the shape of a pretty little bright-
green snake, which coils in the Lrsanches of a dwarfed tree, cultivated
inasmall garden-vase. Incense is offered equally on the shrine
of the carved dragon, and before the living representation in the
tree. The offerings are such as the snake does not disdain, but
such as the fabled dragon perhaps might not thank his votaries for.
They consist of ter and eggs. When merchants contract partner-
vhips, or masters and apprentices execute indentures, they bring
engrossed copies of the covenants, and burn them with incense
under the tree. In this way they bring the contents of the articles
When the
ive been fully performed, the parties come again to the
to the notice of the god for his approval and blessing.
CORE Ts }
the sacred snake, and with solemn religious ceremony
presence I
declare nintual acquittal and satisfaction. “ ILoly water” is con-
stantly kept in vases, from which it is carried away in phials for the
When a second affliction falls on a bereaved
curing of diseases,
fuinily, it indicates that the grave of the deceased relation is an
unlucky one, I
this water, and t
this temple we ]
dow is filled wi
of every pattern
ages With a pra
sold to mourners
lieving that in
material substan
Of the Bude
[t is, with its ex:
“Ocean Banner
ecture. — Spacio
PATA
1 sly My
| AMNION
> and
lady,
a the
» A
rance
thick-
ily.
@ it is
Cups,
milky
orna-
brace-
L with
‘ls and
PON), tt
China.
2g rep-
bright-
Hivated
shrine
in the
in, but
ies tor,
urtner-
bring
ncense
articles
en the
to the
‘emony
is con-
for the
rreaved
TEMPLE OF HONAN, POI
unlucky one. In that case the bones are exhumed and washed in
this water, and then removed to a more hospitable sepulchre. From
this temple we passed into a long street in which every shop-win-
dow is filled with bars of bullion, fans, hats, shoes, and garments
of every pattern cut from fancy-colored paper, and put up in pack-
aves With a prayer impressed on each packet. These parcels are
sold to mourners, Who burn them in incense betore the shrine, be-
lieving that in this way they convey to the departed friends the
material substances of which the paper articles are the imitation.
Of the Buddhist temples, the most celebrated is the Honan.
It is, with its extensive monastery, called also the Temple of the
“Qcean Banner;” but why the “Ocean Banner,” we cannot con-
jecture. Spacious areas here are occupied by * sacred” pigs, goats,
>
ail
vin |
am
ENTRANCE TO THE TEMPLE OF HONAN
262 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
sheep, chickens, ducks, and geese. Notwithstanding the reverential
devotion which the monks show to these animals, the idle boys who
followed us into the temple took a wicked delight in “ stirring up”
the fat, holy swine with pike-staves, and making them grunt for
our entertainment. The monks have separate cloisters, and, besides
these, one spacious and common hall, which, having undergone
some special form of consecration, is regarded as an auspicious
chamber for the departure of the soul in death. When a brother's
last hour is supposed to be near, he is brought to this chamber,
possibly with the unintentional effect of hastening his entrance to
anticipated bliss. Not far from this happy death-chamber is a
sanctified and auspicious charnel-house. The body deposited in
this lucky vault remains here in waiting until Buddha, being con-
sulted, indicates a lucky day for the ceremony of cremation. [e-
yond the charnel-house is a furnace in which the process is con.
ducted. The ashes are gathered in a vase, and are deposited with
others in a temporary mausoleum. When the fulness of time has
arrived, and an auspicious day has come, the vase is emptied into
a common sarcophagus, and so the funeral-rites are at last ended.
Leaving the “ Ocean Banner,’ we visited the Temple of the
‘Flowery Forest.” Its pantheon contains images not only of gods
of whom the Greeks or Romans never dreamed, but of more gods
than they ever worshipped. Think of five hundred colossal wooden
digures, of all complexions, black, white, and red, with distorted
features and limbs, and dressed in purple, crimson, and gold, sitting
in close order around the walls of a saloon, equal to the largest in
the British Museum. These are the guardian genii of China.
Each is a deified apostle or saint of the religion. These figures
were presented to the monastery by one of the emperors, and per-
haps all were carved by one artist. If he failed to impart a natural
human expression to any among them, it must be admitted in his
fivor that, in their hideous distortions, no two are alike. We were
kindly received by the monks. The abbot, a man of reveren
tien, Wears purple, a cap which might be mistaken for a mitre, and
a staff in the shape of a crozier. As we came in advance of the
evening service, they entertained us in the spacious court with
TI
delicious tea an
versation a vag
that the disastey
iin ageression
vreat Civil war
While we were
and having the.
wuny children.
dressed servants
votive offerings,
They were waiti
in incense for th
the women mad.
and cheerful, see
engaged rather |
advances to us,
bestowed on thei
At the servic
bench, the only t
tosee the cerem«
a lofty ceiling,
sitting posture, r
looking to the le
forward, expressi
right, contempla
isa temple dedi
sents, in a vague
Church: one, th
entation in threé
gies merely accid
of the same inn:
revelation? Th
votional intonat
bell tinkled, to i
this sound, the
loreleads to the
tial
; who
4 up”
nt for
sides
rgone
icious
pther’s
Wnber,
nee to
risa
ted in
g con-
. Be
iS. Con-
d with
me has
Pd into
ded.
of the
of gods
re gods
wooden
istorted
, sitting
reest in
China.
figures
md. per:
natural
din his
Ve were
everend
tre, and
e of thie
art with
TEMPLE OF THE “FLOWERY FOREST.” 263
delicious tea and dried fruits. The brethren showed by their con-
versation a vague knowledge of foreign countries. They feared
that the disasters which have befallen France may encourage Rus-
in aggression against China. They understand something of the
ereat civil war in the United States, and rejoice in its results.
While we were thus engaged, a group of ladies exquisitely dressed,
and having the least of all feet, came into the court accompanied by
wily children, This party was followed by a retinue of well-
dressed servants, bearing large ornamented paper boxes, filled with
votive offerings, paper shoes, fans, and hats, as before described.
They were waiting «til the midnight hour, to burn these offerings
in incense for the repose and cheer of deceased ancestors. Although
the women made no mirthful demonstration, they were animated
and cheerful, seeming to regard the ceremony in which they were
engaged rather as a festal than a funereal one. They made no
advances to us, but showed much delight with the caresses we
bestowed on their pretty children.
At the service, the monks kindly seated Mr. Seward on a wooden
bench, the only thing of the kind in the temple, in a good position
tosee the ceremony. The hall of worship is sixty feet square, with
alofty ceiling. In its centre, a gigantic, triple-carved statue, in a
sitting posture, representing Buddha in his three “ states ”’—the face
looking to the left, symbolic of oblivion, 0. the past; that looking
forward, expressive of activity, the present; the third, looking to the
right, contemplation, or the future. The * Flowery Forest,” then,
isa temple dedicated to a religion, older than our own, which pre-
sents, in a vague, misty way, two of the principles of the Christian
Church: one, the incarnation of the Supreme; the other, His pres-
entation in three persons, one and indivisible. Are these analo-
gies merely accidental coincidences, or are they different outgrowths
of the same innate ideas, or are they shadowy forms of a common
revelation? The service consisted in a solemn, measured, and de-
votional intonation of along and varied liturgy. Cccasionally, a
bell tinkled, to indicate a change in the order of the prayers. At
this sound, the monks prostrated themselves, and brought their
ioreleads to the ground. At other times, they changed their pos-
JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
tures toward the triune image, or walked in solemn procession
around it, keeping time toa muffled drum and gong. Offerings
are made of wheat, rice, and millet. These being deemed now
consecrated, they were, at the conclusion of the ceremony, conveyed
in a tripod, and scattered over the paved court of the temple, that
they might be gathered by the fowls of the air, and so be saved
from human profanation. The temple contains a very fine dagoba
of white marble, built over a relic of a former incarnate Buddha.
Its pedestal, a lower story, is ornamented with various allegorical
tablets, on which Buddha is represented riding here on a dragon,
there on a lion, and elsewhere on other animals. [leathen deities,
as we come among them, seem to us to be rather impersonations
of ideal conditions of human existence, than spiritual conceptions
of a superior order of beings.
There is a temple dedicated to “ Longevity.” The idol, a colos.
sal figure, badly carved in wood, and painted very red and very
brown, represents an obese, contented, and lazy old man. This
temple has a monastery of extraordinary character. Instead ot
cloisters of masonry, the cells are trees; and, instead of shaven
monks, the brotherhood is a family of storks, which, daily fed by the
attendants, live out their long-appointed days, objects of reverence
and affection, The stork which has the luck to be dedicated to
* Longevity” is a happy bird. What a contrast is his to the case
of the gold-fish, only bred and fattened, in the ponds of the temple
of the same god, to become the food of the “holy” stork!
Whatever doubts there may be about the justice of the Chinese
claim to the invention of printing, it is pleasant to record that they
have done honor to the art of arts by dedicating to it shrines,
tablets, and vases of incense.
Our survey of the religious institutions closed with a visit to a
convent of Buddhist nuns, devoted to the care of the sick. The
superior and the sisterhood received us kindly. Although illiterate,
they are industrious, tidy, gentle, and prepossessing. They showel
us not only the meagre hospital wards, but their own very humble
cells. After all, charity is an essential element of every religion,
and woman is its truest minister throughout the world.
A Chinese Villa.—T
An Opium-Den.
Street of Malef
at Night,
Canton, Dee
tation or notice
Chinese gentler
closed with a so
received us gra
fully wranged,
and a spacious
more ambitious
oftice of Taou-t:
contains a nob
one side to the
Hall in the Ca
chapel used for
ancestors. Tha
centre supports
inscribed. Lar
which contain,
the family, wi
Hall, moreover
family courts ¢
ssion
rings
now
veyed
, that
saved
LOX ba
iddha.
rorical
ragon,
leities,
lations
»ptions
A Colos-
d very
. This
aad ot
shaven
| by the
verence
vated to
the case
} temple
Chinese
hat they
shrines,
visit to a
k. The
lliterate,
y showed
- humble
religion,
CHAPTER XVI.
CANTON (Continued).
A Chinese Villa.—The Hall of Ancestors.—A Chinese School-Room.—Another Villa.—
An Opium-Den.—Extent of Opium-Smoking.--The Chinese Chronometer.—The
Street of Malefactors.—The Place of Execution.—A City of the Dead.—Canton
at Night,
Canton, December 30th.—This morning, without previous invi-
tation or notice, our reverend guide ushered us into the villa of a
Chinese gentleman, Poon-ting-gua. It covers several acres, en-
closed with a solid granite wall. Chinese ladies with their children
received us graciously. The mansion has a spacious theatre, taste-
fully wranged, for private entertainments, many pretty boudoirs,
and a spacious banqueting-hall. After this, we visited the still
more ambitious dwelling of the mandarin Lee, now exercising the
office of Taou-tai in the province of Chin-Kiang. This residence
contains a noble Hall of Ancestors, which, although it opens on
one side to the sky, resembles very much the old Representative
Hall in the Capitol at Washington. The Azcestral Hall is the
chapel used for daily family worship of the gods, as well as of the
ancestors. The hall is purely Confucian in idea. A shrine in the
centre supports a tablet on which the names of the ancestors are
inscribed. Large crimson banners are suspended from the walls,
which contain, in embroidery, their likenesses, as well as those of
the family, with heraldic insignia or emblems. The Ancestral
Hall, moreover, is the judgment-chamber or tribunal in which
family courts are held. At these courts all births are recorded,
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266 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
marriage-contracts celebrated, and all disputes are adjusted. In
anticipation of his last hour, the head of the house is brought to the
Ancestral Hall to die, expecting an unobstructed passage thence
MEE
eT TTS TTL) ae
POON-TING-GUA'S VILLA.
to the realms above. After his death, his will is published in the
This hall is brilliantly furnished with European
lamps, clocks, and mirrors. On the present occasion, the altar or
tablet was graced with a porcelain salver, on which rested a cold
roast-pig, weighing fifteen or twenty pounds. The dish was flanked
with conserves, cakes, and flowers. A daughter of the house, mar-
ried three days ago, conies in jrocession to-day, to pay her parting
visit to her famiiy, and these were the offerings to ancestors pro-
vided for the celebration of this important domestic event. At the
conclusion of the ceremony, in such cases, the oblations are distrib-
uted among the servants of the tamily.
saine chamber.
We wer
boys are e
arrangemen
apartment |
pupils read
commit ther
in dress, fro
present sch¢
instrument «
tate to admi
Solomon’s it
The Chinese
bred childret
reverence, as
We were
near the He
pluvium, rer
likely that th
which the We
of his famil
perfect refine
curiosity.
The tea-h
or restaurant
gather there,
In return
our way thro
lighted from
place, indicat
either side of
each section f
ture table six
persons were
table, rested :
asin the tea
poor and the
ted. In
nt to the
e thence
ed in the
European
1e altar or
ed a cold
as flanked
ouse, mar-
er parting
estors pro-
At the
re distrib-
CHINESE SCHOOL-ROOM.
We were particularly interested in the school-room, where the
boys are educated; the girls are not educated at all. With its
arrangement of tables, desks, black-board, books, and slates, the
apartment might be mistaken for a school-room at home. All the
pupils read the lessons of every sort aloud, and all at once, and
commit them to memory. The pedagogue differs but little, except
in dress, from the school-master the world over. The master in this
present school is an ingenuous as well as a spirited man. The
instrument of his discipline laid on his desk, and he did not hesi-
tate to admit that he frequently employs it, believing probably in
Solomon’s instruction, “he that spareth his rod, hateth his son.”
The Chinese boys have all the natural manner and modesty of well-
bred children. One bright-eyed little lad of eight years, with great
reverence, asked Mr. Seward’s “ honorable age.”
We were received by another family, in a very seston villa
near the Honan. We noticed, with some surprise, here, the z-
pluviwm, rendered so famous by the descriptions of Pompeii. Is it
likely that the Chinese have preserved a feature oi villa architecture
which the Western nations have lost? The proprietor and the ladies
of his family conducted us through their sumptuous abode, with
perfect refinement of manner, betraying not the least shyness or
curiosity.
The tea-house in Canton holds the place of the ale-house, café,
or restaurant, in European cities. Rich and poor promiscuously
gather there, and are served without respect of persons.
In returning from the villa, we opened a narrow door and made
our way through a dark passage to a suite of small rooms, faintly
lighted from the roof. The seclusion, darkness, and silence of the
place, indicated that something furtive was going on there. On
either side of a long chamber was a dais divided into sections, in
each section two men reclining vis-d-vis—between them a minia-
ture table six inches high. We were in an opium-den, and these
persons were the victims. Before each of the smokers, on the
table, rested a pipe, a tiny opium-pot, and’a burning lamp. Here,
asin the tea-house, there is no respect of rank or wealth. The
poor and the rich lie down together. Each assists the other in the
968 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
delicate task of igniting the opium, and filling the bowl of the pipe,
We spoke to two or three of the smokers, who were only at the
beginning of the siesta, and received from them respectful and
gentle answers. We tried in vain to rouse others to consciousness,
who were in the stage of blissful revery, although their eyes were
‘
Nan
ihe
‘
i)
‘
+2
OPIUM-SMOKERS.
open, and they were sadly smiling. When the smoker recovers
from the inebriation, if he has sufficient strength he repairs home;
otherwise, he is removed to another apartment, and remains there
perhaps twenty-four hours, recovering strength to depart. Was it
an imaginat
sinister lool:
rounded by
to his custo
of silver ?
The boo
heard here ¢
effoct of opi
of the practi
of physical ¢
of the consu
allowed. T
wide-spread
to the opium
the absence
had anticipa
seek the vice
country, a {
conversation
peans and 4
wide-spread
their observ
house-servar
become inef|
informed pe
frequent no
perance in t
that the cos
labor, lifts t]
Tn the 1
up with Wes
purpose. E
the outer w:
tower, is a V
A. brand
government
the pipe,
nly at the
ectful and
sciousness,
eyes were
ar recovers
airs home;
ains there
't, Was it
OPIUM-SMOKING,. 269
an imagination of ours that the keeper of this hell wore a base and
sinister look as he stood behind his counter in a dark closet, sur-
rounded by packages of the pernicious drug, which he weighed out
to his customers a pennyweight of opium against a pennyweight
of silver ?
The books we have read at home, and the discussions we have
heard here as well as there, have prepared us to sce the disastrous
effect of opium-smoking on every side in China. The denunciation
of the practice is justified by all-sufticient proof that it is destructive
of physical and intellectual energy. Statistics show a vast increase
of the consumption of the drug, since its free importation has been
allowed. The Chinese Government has given its sanction to the
wide-spread denunciation by its persistent and earnest opposition
to the opium-trade. We are agreeably disappvinted, however, by
the absence of evidence of the evil fruits of tue practice which we
had anticipated. Except in this den where we purposely went to
seek the vice and its victims, we have not met, in any part of the
country, a person of either sex, or of any age, whose appearance,
conversation or conduct, indicated an excessive indulgence. Euro-
peans and Americans here agree in representing the practice as
wide-spread and pernicious, but, when interrogated concerning
their observation, they assure you that they know of a coolie, a
house-servant, a mechanic, a clerk, perhaps a trader, who has
become inefficient or unreliable by the indulgence. But the best-
informed persons agree that cases of this kind are neither more
frequent nor more extensive than those of habitual alcoholic intem-
perance in the United States. Moreover, we are inclined to think
that the cost of the drug, when balanced against the low wages of
labor, lifts the abuse beyond the reach of the working-classes.
Tn the matter of the regulation of time, the Chinese do not keep
up with Western science. There is a tower here devoted to that
purpose. Each hour is announced in a printed placard posted on
the outer wall. The chronometer, however, which is used in the
tower, is a water-clock, the clumsy clepsydra of ancient Greece.
A branch staircase from the Time-Tower brought us to the
government printing-office, which publishes all official documents,
270 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
including a copy of the Peking Gazette. None of our modern
improvements are used. The carving of the wooden type, the
spreading of the India-ink over them, the taking of the impression,
all are done by hand.
The Chinese Government is based on two fictions: first, that
the emperor is the Son of Heaven ; second, that he is the parent of
the Chinese people. In harmony with these principles, loyalty to
the state is inculeated not only as a religious but as a filial duty,
But all sentimental fictions are liable to abuse, equally in politics
and religion. The code of Draco was not more cruel than the
parental discipline of the Chinese empire. Passing by the palace
of the Taou-tai, with its ostentatious imperial banners, we turned a
sharp corner, and entered a long, narrow, cheerless street. Here,
no gay sign-boards or banners relieved the night. The chops are
sombre, and there are few travellers. It is the malefactor road—
the street through which the condemned convicts pass, froin the
palace to the place of execution. It was almost night when we
were admitted, under a strong but low gateway, to a close area a
hundred feet long, scarcely more than twenty feet wide; on one
side low stone-buildings; on the other a high blind wall; a walk
paved with large flat stones in the middle of the court. <A potter
was noiselessly at work shaping vessels, some to be used for re-
ceiving the blood, others the hands and feet, and others the heads
of the victims. Sometimes only a single execution takes place, but
usually short delays are made for the convenience of bringing sev-
eral executions together. They vary in number from two to fifty,
and, in times of political disturbance or flagrant piracy, fifty and
even a hundred executions take place at once. Dr. Grey, who
has studied Chinese history carefully, is of opinion that no field of
battle ancient or modern has witnessed so much violent destruction
of human life as this Aceldama. The customary form is decapita-
tion. When the condemned come within the gate, they march up
the paved walk and take their places, kneeling inward on either
side. An imperial officer at the upper end of the court reads, ina
distinct voice, a rescript of their names, crimes, and sentences, <A
practised executioner, with a long sword which he wields with both
hands, proce
forward, the
circles, comy
into vases fil
with blood, |
the atmosph
crosses leanit
in that form
ready to be t
empire.
The scer
solemn, is t
ornamented
musical with
of the dead v
months, a ye
final interme
traversed by
squares are
numbered b
perfect eat
are divided i
tablets and ai
which offerin
room is occuy
daughters, w
long watches
for their rep
exhumed re
a magnificen
or statues, ei
bearings fan
dead. Wher
to his friends
arations for ]
pire where h
ir modern
type, the
npression,
first, that
parent of
loyalty to
filial duty,
in politics
than the
the palace
e turned a
ot. Here,
chops are
or road—
froin the
when we
lose area a
23 On one
Ils a walk
A potter
ed for re-
the heads
place, but
nging sev-
ro to fifty,
, fifty and
trey, who
10 field of
estruction
s dlecapita-
march up
on either
reads, in a
ences. A
with both
THE CITY OF THE DEAD. 271
al
hands, proceeds down the line. The culprits stretching their necks
forward, the executioner, swinging the instrument in continued
circles, completely severs a heac at every blow. The heads fall
into vases filled with lime; nevertheless the pavement is besmeared
with blood, and the effluvia rising from this horrible place taint
the atmosphere of the most distant parts of the city. We saw
crosses leaning against the wall, prepared for inflicting punishment,
in that form, and many baskets, each of which contained a head
ready to be transported to the city gates, and to distant parts of the
empire.
The scene we next visited is one which, although sad and
solemn, is touching and beautiful. This is an extensive plain,
ornamented with gardens and lakes, fragrant with flowers, and
musical with the songs of birds. It is the temporary resting-place
of the dead while awaiting—a day or many days, a month or many
months, a year or many years—an auspicious time and place for
final interment. This city of the dead is divided into blocks, and
traversed by rectilinear paved streets. Instead of dwellings, the
squares are covered with charnel-houses, and these are already
numbered by thousands. They are built of stone, and kept with
perfect cleanliness and order. The charnel-houses, one story high,
are divided into two apartments—the front, a reception-hall with
tablets and an aJtar, before which a lamp continually burns, and on
which offerings of tea, fruit, and flowers are daily renewed. This
room is occupied by the relations of the deceased, generally sons or
daughters, who console the dead not only by day, but through the
long watches of the night. A couch or divan along the wall serves
for their repose. In the inner chamber rest the unburied, or the
exhumed remains enclosed in a costly carved coffin, covered with
a magnificent purple or scarlet pall. Around the coffin are figures
or statues, either carved, or of porcelain, which, gayly dressed and
bearings fans or cups, are ministering to the wants of the sleeping
dead. When a stranger dies in Canton, information is conveyed
to his friends, however distant. His remains rest here until prep-
arations for his interment have been made, in the part of the em-
pire where he lived. The “city of the dead,” like our cemeteries,
972 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
is under the care of an association, and its expenses are defraye(
by charges regulated by tariff.
It was quite nine o’clock, a star-lit night, when we emeyge(
from this silent, mysterious place—the only one we have ever seen
in which, though it is devoted to the dead, cheerfulness and hope
prevail over gloom and despondency. We passed through a series
of graves which surround it, starting a thousand storks, which kept
watch and ward over the cemetery. These birds have a peculiar
adaptation to sacred places. They rest always on one leg, the head
turned backward under the wing. Their utterances are made by
clapping their mandibles together like a pair of castanets. Our
coolies bore burning lamps. They carried us very quickly across a
rude, uninhabited plain, which, by reason of its vicinity to the city,
we expected to find a scene of disorder and peril. Our experience
is that neither assassin nor robber of any kind, by night or by day,
awaits the sojourner in Canton. We occasionally stopped to inquire
the significance of a candle burning in the grass near the roadside,
and before which lay offerings of tea, wheat, fruit, or millet. The
explanation was, that some person, passing the place, had stumbled
or met with other accident, the mischievous work of some discon-
tented spirit or demon. The light and the offerings are designed
to propitiate him. ;
The night aspect of Canton is one of quiet and peace. All
shops, stores, and manufactories, are closely shut; only here anid
there a paper lantern dangles from the eaves, before the house of a
mandarin or a wealthy denizen. The tread of the foot-passenger is
only occasionally heard, and there are no processions, groups, or
crowds. Light streams through the crevices of the dwellings, and
often the clink of the anvil and the sound of the hammer indicate
that the inhabitants have only withdrawn from the operations of
sale in which they were engaged during the day, to manufacture
new articles to sell to-morrow. Rarely, very rarely, one may hear
the mellow tones of a flute, but never in any part of the city does
there arise the sound of debauch or revelry. A gentle rap by our
conductor brought to the postern the keeper of each of the numer-
ous gates through which we had to pass. A kind word assured us
that he was
safety. Mov
the dreamy |
lust of the c¢
head and all
Chung.”
CHINESE TOMBS. 273
re. defrayed that he was prepared for our coming, and was interested for our
safety. Moving on so quietly in our chairs, we had fallen into
re emerge the dreamy state of contemplation ascribed to Buddha, when the
e ever seen [IN Jast of the cit,-gates, the gate of “ Everlasting Peace,” lifted its
s and hope head and allowed us to pass under the door of hospitable “ Kee-
ugh a series Chung.”
which kept
a@ peculiar
or, the head
re. made by
nets. Our
kly across a
to the city,
experience
or by day,
d to inquire
le roadside,
illet. The
d stumbled
me discon- | AMlnier | \ 3 ROCTURRT
e designed
peace. All
y here and
house of a
bassenger is
| groups, or
ellings, and
ner indicate
erations of
anufacture CHINESE TOMBS,
e may hear
e city does
rap by our
the numer:
assured us
Chinese Emigratic
China.—A_ Cc
Mr. Seward’s
pects of Chin
Tong-Kon
voyage, besid
of Macao. §
and fifty of th
the others, v«
Kong for San
States goes e
through the |
American cot
from the same
The laws of tl
and a certific
and made on
preventing al
United States
with the emi
tion prevailin,
the African sl
by fraud’and {
CHAPTER XVII.
AT HONG-KONG AGAIN.
Chinese Emigration to the United States—The Canton Fisheries —American Houses in
China.—A Combination of Gamblers.—-A Dinner at the United States Consulate.—
Mr. Seward’s Speech.—Oriental and Eastern Civilization.—Policy of China.—Pros.
pects of China,
Tlong-Kong, January 1, 1871.—The Kin-San, on her return-
voyage, besides ourselves, had three cabin-passengers, all merchants
of Macao. She had four hundred in the steerage: one hundred
and fifty of them Chinese traders between Canton and Hong-Kong ;
the others, voluntary Chinese emigrants going to ship at Hong-
Kong for San Francisco. The Chinese emigration to the United
States goes exclusively from the province of Quan-Tong (Canton)
through the port of Canton. The Chinese emigration to other
American countries, the West Indies, and South America, goes
from the same province, but through the Portuguese port of Macao.
The laws of the United States, which require consular examination
and a certificate in each case that the emigration is voluntary,
and made on sufficient guarantee, have proved entirely effective in
preventing abduction, fraud, and violence. The emigrant to the
United States is contented and cheerful. It is net so, however,
with the emigrant who embarks at Macao. The system ef abduc-
tion prevailing there is an abomination scarcely less execrable than
the African slave-trade. The emigrants are promiscuously taken
by fraud and force; ignorant of their destination, and without secu-
276 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
rity for their labor or their freedom, they are hurried on board sail.
ing-craft. These vessels are built in the United States, and they
appear at Macao under the United States flag, promising to convey
the emigrants to our country. So soon as they have cleared the
port, they hoist the colors of Peru, San Salvador, or some other
Spanish-American state. It is when this fraud is discovered that
scenes of mutiny and murder occur, of which we have such frequent
and frightful accounts. It shall not be our fault if, in the cause of
humanity, the United States Government is not informed of this
great outrage against our national honor.
Chinese versatility has a fine illustration in the Canton fisheries,
On either side of our steamer, as we came down the river, was a
tub or cistern holding five hundred gallons of water. The water
contained great quantities of living fish produced in ponds in
the vicinity of Canton. Arriving at the wharf here, a sluice was
opened at the bottom of each cistern, and the fish, rushing out with
the rapid current, dropped into smaller tubs, and were conveyed
either to market, or to ships going to sea.
January 2d.—We are pleased with the reassurance we reccive
here from home, that a semi-monthly line of steamers is to be
established by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. This line
is a development of enterprise which, though noiseless, is extend-
ing the American name and influence in the East.
The American houses in China are as follows:
Russell & Company, with establishments at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton,
Foo-Choo, Kiu-Kiang, Han-Kow, and Tien-Tsin.
Augustine Heard & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Choo,
Oliphant & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Choo,
Bull, Pardon & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, Canton, and Foo-Choo.
Smith, Archer, & Company, at Shanghai, Hong-Kong, and Canton.
Silas E. Burrows & Company, at Hong-Kong.
E. J. Sage & Company, at Hong-Kong.
H. Fogg & Company, at Shanghai.
A. O, Farnham & Company, at Shanghai.
To all these houses our grateful acknowlegments—to Russell
& Company,
guests, in the
Hong-Ko:
States, except
nation of gan
stain the his
officers confes
To-day tl
Seward, with
To Mr. Baile
“The que
period to whi
of slavery fro
from dissoluti
right, in a fe
this round ea
thizer with th
“Our dist
the struggle,
expression of
on a dismemb<¢
ever, who hav
a bright and g
tutions over t
necessity a re
States have ag
free consent a
“The first
introduced, in
quest. The g
Fortunately fo
poses. The w
republic, that
modern republ
perity and pro
toward men.’
1g
oard sail-
and they
to convey
eared the
me other
rered that
1 frequent
2 cause of
ed of this
1 fisheries,
ver, was a
The water
ponds in
sluice was
y out with
conveyed
e receive
5 is to be
This line
is extend-
bng, Canton,
d Foo-Choo.
b-Choo.
Foo-Choo.
Dn.
to Russell
A SPEECH BY MR. SEWARD, 277
al
& Company, the most full, because they have claimed us as their
guests, in their several agencies throughout the empire.
Hong-Kong has a social grievance unknown in the United
States, except in the new States and Territories—a villanous combi-
nation of gamblers, like the pests of the same kind whose atrocities
stain the history of Vicksburg and San Francisco. The judicial
officers confess themselves powerless to suppress these criminals.
To-day the United States consul, Mr. Bailey, entertained Mr.
Seward, with the large party gathered to meet him, at the consulate.
To Mr. Bailey’s speech of welcome, Mr. Seward replied as follows :
“The questions which engaged the American people, in the
period to which you have so kindly referred, were, the elimination
of slavery from the United States, and the saving of the republic
from dissolution. Both these questions were at last decided for the
right, in a fearful civil war. I think there is not now living, on
this round earth, a man who, even though he was then a sympa-
thizer with the rebellion, now regrets that beneficent adjustment.
“Our distinguished statesman, Daniel Webster, foresaw only
the struggle. His utmost confidence in the happy end was in the
expression of his earnest hope that his dying eyes might not close
ona dismembered, a disunited, a belligerent republic. On us, how-
ever, who have survived both him and the convulsion, there opens
a bright and glorious prospect—it is the spread of republican insti-
tutions over the whole American Continent, involving by absolute
necessity a regeneration of civilization in the East. The United
States have assumed the lead in this great work, happily with the
free consent and approbation of all the European nations.
“The first Emperor of the French, copying from Julius Cesar,
introduced, in our time, the military empire, as an agency for con-
quest. The second emperor dedicated it to peace and progress.
Fortunately for mankind, the innovation has failed for both pur-
poses. The world is coming to realize, on the contrary, that ‘the
republic, that is to say, not the republic of former ages, but the
modern republic of our own experience, is always favorable to pros-
perity and progress, and is everywhere ‘on earth peace, good-will
toward men.’
19
eof cS
Rieti’
278 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
“T have been long engaged studying the great problem of mod.
ern civilization. In doing so, I have travelled largely on the North
Agnerican Continent, and, with the same object, 1 am now obsery ing
Asiatic countries. In this connection, I may make two or three
observations, without disloyalty to my own country, or to China,
and without offence to any foreign nation represented here. I do
not undervalue missionary labors in the East, but the Christian
religion, for its acceptance, involves some intellectual and social ad-
vancement which can only be effected through international com.
merce, I look, therefore, chiefly to commerce for the regeneratio:,
of China—that commerce to come across the American Continent
and the Pacifi: Ocean. I lament to find, in every part of China
that I visit, despondeney concerning that commerce, which, I am
sure, is not entertained in the United States, or in any other of the
Western nations. I think that despondency without foundation,
On the other hand, a foreign commerce, which penetrates the
northern, the central, and the southern regions of China, is firmly
established and secured. Not one of the footholds which have been
gained can ever be lost. The continuance and increase of that
commerce are guaranteed by the material, moral, social, aad politi-
cal necessities of both continents.
“Say what men may, human progress is compelled by the laws
of Providence. Obstacles, indeed, must occur, and will multiply
resistance here, and discussions and jealousies in the West; but
there is a subtle moral opinion which pervades mankind, before
which, sooner or later, all such obstacles disappear. There is no
assignable measure to the future expansions of this intercontinental
and regenerating commerce. Although its movements seem to us
very slow, yet there are abundant evidences that it is neither dying
out nor retrograding. The daily increasing emigration from south-
ern China to America, and to the Malay Peninsula, and the Oriental
Archipelago, is a guarantee of its continuance. That emigration
works beneficially in three ways: the navigation employed in it
sustains commerce; it relieves an overcrowded population of sur-
plus labor; returning emigrants bring back not only wealth, but
arts, knowledge, and morals, to renovate their native country. Let
it be our task,
tial to the gi
states practise
reciprocity, n
just in propor
conducted.
“Six or se
individual desi
represented by
Burlingame, S:
inrecommendi
into equal po
‘Burlingame’
only to be pur
now doubts of
hundred millio
with its thirty
asked: § But w
extortions, its {
the fruit of tho
know—no one
always give w
prejudice must
what political ¢
know it is an @
sign they are i
influence I had
thought it was
restored Mikad
Western civiliz
“But I my
your fortunes
pray God that
that devotion!
“This day,
my memory.”
m of mod.
the North
obsery ing
» or three
to China,
ere. Ido
Christian
| social ad-
ional com-
veneratio:
Continent
t of China
hich, I am
ther of the
foundation,
etrates the
a, is firmly
have been
se of that
vad politi-
yy the laws
Il multiply
West ; but
ind, before
here is no
continental
seem to us
ither dying
‘Yom south-
ie Oriental
emigration
oyed in it
ion of sur-
vealth, but
ntry. Let
SPEECH CONTINUED. 279
a“
it be our task, therefore, to stimulate this emigration. It is essen-
tial to the growth of international commerce, that the Western
states practise equal justice toward China. True commerce involves
reciprocity, not exclusive gain on either side, and it flourishes
just in proportion to the good faith anv equality with which it is
conducted.
“Six or seven years ago, the Western nations, relinquishing
individual designs of aggrandizement or advantage in China, were
represented by enlightened men, among whom were the late Mr.
Burlingame, Sir Frederick Bruce, and M. Berthémy. They agreed
inrecommending to their several states the policy of bringing China
into equal political relations with all the Western states. The
‘Burlingame’ treaty was the fruit ef these counsels. They have
only to be pursued in good faith, to work the best results. No one
now doubts of the renovation of Japan ; but China, with its four
hundred millions, exhibits more signs of progress to-day than Japan,
with its thirty or forty millions, did twenty years ago. Iam often
asked: ‘ But what of this ancient Chinese Imperial Government, its
extortions, its timidity, its effeteness, and of this national prejudice,
the fruit of thousands of years of isolation?’ I answer: ‘I do not
know—no one knows. I only know that imbecility and effeteness
always give way before vigor and energy, and that dotage and
prejudice must give way to truth, justice, and reason. I know not
what political changes may occur here, but, on the other hand, I
know it is an error to suppose that revolutions, with whatever de-
sion they are inaugurated, retard human progress.’ I used all the
influence I had to prevent the late revolution in Japan, because I
thought it was a retrograde movement; I little dreamed that the
restored Mikado would excel the dethroned Tycoon in emulating
Western civilization.
“But I must not enlarge. Gentlemen, you have dedicated
your fortunes and your lives to the regeneration of China. I
pray God that you may individually enjoy the rich rewards of
that devotion !
“This day, with its pleasing incidents, will be forever fresh in
my memory.”
280 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
January 4th—The Chinese, though not of the Caucasian
race, have all its political, moral, and social capabilities. Long
ago, they reached a higher plane of civilization than most of
the European states attained until a much later period. The
Western nations have since risen above that plane. The whole
world is anxiously inquiring whether China is to retrieve the ad.
vantages she has lost, and if she is to come within the family of
modern civilized states. Mr. Burlingame’s sanguine temperament
and charitable disposition led him to form too favorable an opinion
of the present condition of China. In his anxiety to secure a more
liberal policy on the part of the Western nations toward the ancient
empire, he gave us to understand, especially in his speeches, that,
while China has much to learn from the Western nations, she is not
without some peculiar institutions which they may advantageously
adopt. This is not quite true. Although China is far from being
a barbarous state, yet every system and institution there is inferior
to its corresponding one in the West. Whether it be the abstract
sciences, such as philosophy and psychology, or whether it be the
practical forms of natural science, astronomy, geology, geography,
natural history, and chemistry, or the concrete ideas of govern.
ment and laws, morals and manners; whether it be in the esthetic
arts or mechanics, every thing in China is effete. Chinese educa.
tion rejects science; Chinese industry proscribes invention ; Chi-
nese morals appeal noi to conscience, but to convenience; Chinese
architecture and navigation eschew ali improvements; Chinese
government maintains itself by extortion and terror; Chinese reli-
gion is materialistic—not even mystic, much less spiritual. If we
ask how this inferiority has come about, among a people who have
achieved so much in the past, and have capacities for greater achieve-
ment in the future, we must conclude that, owing to some error in
their ancient social system, the faculty of invention has been ar-
rested in its exercise and impaired.
China first became known to the Western world by the discov-
eries of Marco Polo in the thirteenth century. At that period and
until after the explorations of Vasco de Gama, China appears to
have been not comparatively great, prosperous, and enlightened,
put absolutely
to the tropics,
great rivers of
fourth of the h
the resources 0
oped those res
the shores of
empire indepe
north had inv:
at Peking for
and the conque
tion and not :
objects of natic
pride, under t
other nations.
hands of a scl
has been foun
took place, tha
state, in repre
that change in
The long isolat
vention, have
heing self-suste
the European s
less. Without
Western natio
Government 15
revenne; and,
is equally incay
ministration of
sciences, the G
ing a beneficial
lutions are thei
them without t
pean nations fo
with which the
Caucasian
ies. Long
n most of
‘iod. The
The whole
eve the ad-
e family of
mperament
an opinion
ure @ more
the ancient
eches, that,
, she is not
intageously
from being
2 is inferior
he abstract
r it be the
geography,
of govern-
he esthetic
nese educa-
ition 3 Chi-
e; Chinese
83 Chinese
‘hinese reli-
ual. IEfwe
le who have
ter achieve-
me error in
as been ar-
the discoy-
period and
appears to
nlightened,
CONDITION OF CHINA. 981
~_
put absolutely so. An empire extending from tne snows of Siberia
to the tropics, and from the Pacific to the mountain sources of the
great rivers of Continental Asia, its population constituted one-
fourth of the human race. Diversified climate and soil afforded all
the resources of public and private wealth. Science and art devel-
oped those resources. Thus, when European nations came upon
the shores of China, in the sixteenth century, they found the
empire independent and self-sustaining. The Mantchoos on the
north had invaded the empire and substituted a Tartar dynasty
at Peking for a native dynasty at Nanking, but the conquerors
and the conquered were still Chinese, and the change was a revolu-
tion and not a subjugation. China having thus attained all the
objects of national life, came to indulge a sentiment of supercilious
pride, under the influence of which she isolated herself from all
other nations. Her government from its earliest period was in the
hands of a scholastic and pedantic class, a class which elsewhere
has been found incapable of practical rule. Since the isolation
took place, that class has effectively exercised all the powers of the
state, in repressing inquiry and stifling invention, through fear
that change in any direction would result in their own overthrow.
The long isolation of the empire, and the extirpation of native in-
vention, have ended in reversing the position of China. From
being self-sustaining and independent, as she was when found by
the European states, she has become imbecile, dependent, and help-
less. Without military science and art, she is at the mercy of
Western nations. Without the science of political economy, the
Government 1s incapable of maintaining an adequate system of
revenue; and, without the science of Western laws and morals, it
is equally incapable of maintaining an impartial and effec‘‘ve ad-
ministration of justice. Having refused to adopt Western arts and
sciences, the Government is incapable of establishing and maintain-
ing a beneficial domestic administration. Insurrections and revo-
lutions are therefore unavoidable, nor can the Government repress
them without the aid of the Western powers. She pays the Euro-
pean nations for making the clothing for her people, and the arms
with which they must defend themselves. She imports not only
282 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA.
the precious metals, but coal and iron, instead of allowing her own
mines to be opened. She forbids the employment of steam and
animal power in mechanics, and so largely excludes her fabrics
from foreign markets.
Though China would now willingly leave all the world alone,
other nations cannot afford to leave her alone. Great Britain must
send her cotton fabrics and iron manufactures. The United States
must send her steam-engines and agricultural implements, and
bring away her coolies. Italy, France, and Belgium, must. have
her silks, and all the world must have her teas, and send her their
religions. All these operations cannot go on without steam-en.
gines, stationary as well as marine, Hoe’s printing-press, and the
electric telegraph.
Now for the question of the prospects of China. Before attempt.
ing to answer this, it will be best to define intelligently the pres.
ent political condition of China. Certainly it is no longer an abso.
lutely sovereign and independent empire, nor has it yet become a
protectorate of any other empire. It is, in short, a state under the
constant and active surveillance of the Western maritime nations,
This surveillance is exercised by their diplomatic representatives,
and by their naval forces backed by the menace of military in-
tervention. In determining whether this precarious condition of
China is likely to continue, and whether its endurance is desirable,
it would be well to consider what are the possible alternatives,
There are only three: First, absolute subjugation by some foreign
state ; second, the establishment of a protectorate by some foreign
state; third, a complete popular revolution, overthrowing not only
the present dynasty, but the present form of government, and
establishing one which shall be in harmony with the interests of
China and the spirit of the age. The Chinese people, inflated with
national pride, and contempt for Western sciences, arts, religions,
morals, and manners, are not prepared to accept the latter alterna-
tive. The rivalry of the Western nations, with the fluctuations of
the balance of their political powers, render it dangerous for any
foreign state to assume a protectorate. The second alternative is,
therefore, out of the question. We have already expressed the
opinion that
and certainly
state would |
or Roman, or
of sovereignt
lance and pro
favorable to t
seems practic:
time surveilla
of people wit
question whic
favors and do
Siang are pro
hence a new €
bigoted now
the people, an
new emperor
with the decay
then, be the p
the sagacious
dinary people
ness, and sym
that the forei,
present obnox
tion, and the
will assume t
both parties w
ency; gradua
China will pr
tectors and tl
thing of this
the Western s
It has bee
in the midst
with so man
board the Pro
12 her own
steam and
her fabrics
‘orld alone,
ritain must
ited States
nents, and
must have
id her their
t steam-en-
ss, and the
re attempt-
ly the pres-
er an abso-
at become a
e under the
me nations,
esentatives,
nilitary in-
ondition of
s desirable,
Iternatives,
hme foreign
me foreign
ng not only
ament, and
nterests of
vflated with
s, religions,
ter alterna-
tuations of
ous for any
ernative is,
pressed the
POLICY OF THE WESTERN POWERS.
opinion that mankind have outlived the theory of universal empire,
and certainly the absolute subjugation of China by any Western
state would be a nearer approach to universal empire than Greek,
or Roman, or Corsican, or Cossack, ever dreamed of. The exercise
of sovereignty in China by a national dynasty, under the surveil-
lance and protection of the maritime powers, is the condition most
favorable to the country and most desirable. The maintenance of it
seems practicable so far as it depends upon the consent of the mari-
time surveillant powers. But how long the four hundred millions
of people within the empire will submit to its continuance is a
question which baffles all penetration. The present Government
favors and does all it can to maintain it. Prince Kung and Wan-
Siang are progressive and renovating statesmen, but a year or two
hence a new emperor will come to the throne. The Zteratz, no less
bigoted now than heretofore, ave an unshaken prestige among
the people, and, for aught any one can judge, the first decree of the
new emperor may be the appointment of a reactionary ministry,
with the decapitation of the present advisers of the throne. Let it,
then, be the policy of the Western nations to encourage and sustain
the sagacious reformers of China, and in dealing with that extraor-
dinary people to practise in all things justice, moderation, kind-
ness, and sympathy. Of course, it is not to be expected or desired
that the foreign surveillance which is now practised will retain its
present obnoxious and oppressive character. The habit of interven-
tion, and the habit of acquiescence in it once fixed, surveillance
will assume the forms of protective tutorship. The interests of
both parties will require that this tutorship be exercised with leni-
ency; gradual amelioration of the political and social condition of
China will produce mutual sympathy and respect between the pro-
tectors and the protected, the instructors and the pupil. Some-
thing of this kind has already happened in the relations between
the Western states and the Ottoman powers.
It has been no easy task to set down these hurried reflections
in the midst of festivities, only brought to an end by the parting
with so many kind friends. The signal is hoisted, and we go on
board the Provence.
CHAPTER XVIII.
A GLANCE AT COCHIN CHINA.
The Steamer Provence.—Island of Hainan.—Our Fellow-Passengers.—The Mouth of the
Saigon River.—The City of Saigon.—French Aptitude for Colonization.—French
Photographs.—The Queen of Cambodia.
Steamer Provence, South China Sea, January 6th.—Wearied
with our long wanderings over China, which, though interesting,
were attended with much fatigue, and with the hospitalities which,
however delightful, were nevertheless exhrusting, we resumed our
onward voyage with a feeling of relief.
We are now running down the coast of the large and prosper-
ous island of Hainan, which is separated from the main-land of
China by the Gulf of Tonquin. They speak of aborigines on the
island, but, from what we learn of its subdivision into Chinese
provinces, and its confessedly great trade, we are inclined to
believe that its civilization does not differ materially from that of
the province of Quan-Tong.
Our steamer, recently L’Impératrice, of the “ Messageries Im-
périales,” is now La Provence, of the “ Messageries Naiionales,”
changes of name which illustrate the political versatility of the
The tout ensemble of passengers and crew is
French people.
scarcely less indicative of social movements in the East.
There are eleven young men, sons of Japanese daimios, travel-
ling under the care of a Prussian, who has been their tutor for five
They are now going to finish their studies; some in Eng-
years.
land, some in France, some in Germany—the larger number in the
United State;
their native 4
for the West
change prodis
of toilet as a |
There is,
on his way to
chase two “A
and steam-en
now on the s
with his ma
lonia.
Two your
tour around tl
ney which we
On reaching
bodia to Siam
January %
road or river,
field, ancient
and on the lef
in going arow
Anam, and en
the equator.
A white light-
the high nortl
ered with eoec
bewildering.
broad, dark rij
banks are cove
bamboos, and
manner of ent
told that the
uplands, and \
the monkeys h
Mouth of the
ion.—French
—W earied
iteresting,
‘ies which,
sumed our
ll prosper:
n-land of
1es on the
io Chinese
iclined to
m that of
reries Im-
viionales,”
ity of the
1 crew is
os, travel-
or for five
ein Eng:
ber in the
THE SAIGON RIVEP. 285
United States. It was only when they embarked that they changed
their native flowing silken dresses, two swords, and wooden shoes,
for the Western costume. The tawny lads seem to enjoy the
change prodigiously, for they make during the day as many changes
of toilet as a Saratoga belle.
There is, next, an intelligent American merchant of Shanghai,
on his way to London, as agent of the Chinese Government, to pur-
chase two “ American” merchant-steamers, to be built in England,
and steam-engines for two “ American” ships-of-war, which are
now on the stocks at Shanghai. Also a Spanish tobacco-merchant
with his family, going from Manila to visit his early home in Cata-
Jonia.
Two young Americans, just out of Harvard, are making the
tonr around the world. They are now going to Bangkok, a jour-
ney which we had purposed making, but were obliged to forego.
On reaching Saigon, they intend crossing the mountains of Cam-
bodia to Siam by elephant-train.
January Tth.—When you are travelling in a foreign country by
yoad or river, how provoking it is to pass a capital, historic battle-
field, ancient university, cathedral, or ruined castle, on the right
and on the left, without stopping to examine them! It is just so
in going around the world. We are now passing the empire of
Anam, and entering the Saigon River, only eight degrees north of
the equator. Fahrenheit 83°. The river-water is clear and pure.
A white light-house, built by the French, rises above the forest on
the high northern promontory; the southern bank is a plain cov-
ered with cocoa-nut groves. The luxuriant beauty of the scene is
bewildering. While we write, the ocean is left behind us, and the
broad, dark river shrinks within the width of forty rods. The
banks are covered with impenetrable jungle of mangoes, bananas,
bamboos, and a thousand creepers twisting their shrubbery into all
manner of entanglement, and covering it with flowers. We are
told that the wild-boar takes refuge here from the tiger on the
uplands, and we see parrots rearing their chattering broods, while
the monkeys hold perpetual revel.
aaa”
The ris
gated chief
bamboo sai
river, and 1
all give pl:
mountains
Saigon,
that we mig
Long befor
made us in
birds, and |
name of U1
theless, we
that the G
some friend
MoOotusTE
lonely place
Trresk&
for us.
The con
bargained f
one dollar a
each drawn
passengers (
our travels j
Saigon j
thousand in
from those y
This is a m:
ilate in the J
exclusive of
plants, but i
of declining
in Europe.
ries. The g
French repr
monkeys, bi
MOotuTEH
7 qc nr
Pan acte
SAIGON, 987
The river below Saigon has a serpentine course, and is navi-
gated chiefly by small native vessels, moving gracefully under light
bamboo sails. The banks rise to greater height as we ascend the
river, and various kinds of pain grace the different elevations, until
all give place to the eagle-wood and the cinnamon on the blue
mountains which overlook the lovely valley.
Saigon, January 8th.—We closed our eyes last night wishing
that we might remain forever afloat on the dark water of the Saigon.
Long before morning, however, swarms of mosquitoes and gnats
made us impatient for the shove, where we felt sure that flowers,
birds, and butterflies, were awaiting us. The Blue-book bears no
name of Uniced States consul at Saigon. From the deck, never-
theless, we espied the United States flag, and learned, on inquiry,
that the German who raised it there had left it to the care of
some friendly native keeper. We inquired no further, and in this
lonely place, the only one thus far in our voyage, no one inquired
for us.
The commandant of La Provence put us ashore in his gig. We
bargained for the first two carriages we found there, at the rate of
one dollar an hour for each, and in these vehicles, called “ garries,”
each drawn by a rough Chinese pony, and having seats for four
passengers (a very close fit), a guide, and a servant, we set out on
our travels in Cochin China. .
Saigon is a native city of from sixty thousand to a hundred
thousand inhabitants. The Europeen settlement adjoining it differs
from those we have seen in Japan and China, only in being French.
This is a matter of no special moment, because all foreigners assim-
ilate in the East. The population is perhaps two hundred and fifty,
exclusive of the garrison. There is a public garden filled with
plants, but it wears an air of neglect, in consequence, we think, not
of declining trade, but of political insecurity growing out of the war
in Europe. All Eastern potentates and nobles maintain menage-
ries. The garden at Saigon proclaims itself an appendage to the
French republic, by a meagre collection of leopards, tigers, bears,
monkeys, birds, and reptiles. The French Government is building
288 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCHIN CHINA,
od
a large palace for the residence of the admiral commanding the
forces in Eastern waters.
The native city consists of two towns, standing on two rivers,
distant two miles from each other, and connected by a firm road,
NATIVE OF SAIGON,
The population is by no means homogeneous. The merchants and
traders are not Cochin Chinese, but chiefly Chinese, and all classes
speak, to some extent, the French language. A happy accord
seems to exist between them and the French.
We alighted from our vehicles
All show the pleas-
ing impress of French manners.
whenever we found any thing noticeable, and invariably were
waited upon by polite and assiduous attendants. We entered and
inspected a Buddhist temple. The bonzes, with great courtesy,
showed us every thing it contained. Whenever we stopped, tea,
fruit, and sherbet, were offered us. The smallest payment was
thankfully received, and, when we declined, the refreshments were
urged upon us without cost. In short, Saigon is the only place we
have found thus far, in the wide world, where everybody seemed
pleased witl
with every
The Fre
ilation to tl
sume gentle
rence that |
enough to n
cessful ine;
French em]
ambitious n
than forty 1
has acquired
is adjacent,
sovereign of
Cambodia, it
of his empir
has two strir
with France,
tion from th
after Europ
cally attemp
quest in Mal
vain those ¢
ambitious
project of a
company est
chéry, and o
the great wa
sions, she al
the French
from the nat
how the Frd
rear of Hind
throw Britisl
tion of Frang
in the great
ling the
> rivers,
rm road,
ants and
11 classes
by accord
the pleas-
> vehicles
bly were
ered and
courtesy,
pped, tea,
nent was
ents were
place we
y seemed
FRENCIL EMPIRE IN COCHIN CHINA, 289
pleased with us, with themselves, and we had reason to be pleased
with everybody.
The French have a peculiar facility in effecting colonial assim-
ilation to their national ways and manners. One expeviences the
same gentle and kind welcome on the banks of the lower St. Law-
rence that he finds here on the banks of the Saigon. It is almost
enough to make us wish that the French nation might be more suc-
cessful in extending their foreign dominion. The whole field of
French empire in Cochin China, which figures so largely in the
ambitious manifestoes of the Government in Paris, is hardly more
than forty miles square. But France, by means of that possession,
has acquired a protectorate over the province of Cambodia, which
js adjacent, and nominally belongs to the empire of Anam. The
sovereign of that empire concedes to France this protectorate over
Cambodia, in consideration of the French guarantee of the integrity
of his empire. This great potentate, like the ostentatious fiddler,
has two strings to his bow; for, while he thus enjoys this alliance
with France, he at the same time, as titular vassal, claims protec-
tion from the Emperor of China. It would be long to tell how,
after European discoveries in the East Indies, France energeti-
cally attempted to secure positions advantageous for trade and con-
quest in Madagascar, Ceylon, and Bengal; how unsuccessful and
vain those attempts were, until the great Colbert found in the
ambitious Louis XIV. a monarch wise enough to accept the
project of a French East India Company; how successfully that
company established factories at Mauritius, at Surat, and Pondi-
chéry, and other places in India. It would be sad to tell how, in
the great war in which France lost nearly all her American posses-
sions, she also lost nearly all her acquisitions in the East; how
the French Jesuit missionaries in Cochin China cunningly secured
from the native emperor the concession of Saigon to Louis XVI. ;
how the French nation exulted in a guin of this position in the
rear of Hindostan, from which they might hope to assail and over-
throw British dominion cn the Asiatic Continent; how this ambi-
tion of France died, with all ambition of colonial aggrandizement,
in the great Revolution of ninety-three ; how that ambition, in
290 JAPAN, CHINA, AND COCIIIN CHINA.
regard to the East, revived in 1861, in the period of the Second
Empire, and Admiral Charner enforced the concession which had
so long before been made to Louis XVI.
Saigon is by no means valueless as a seat of commerce. The
earth has no more fertile fields than those of Cochin China, Among
its products are luxuries the most desired by civilized nations,
While rice is an abundant staple, Saigon experts the gum of lac.
quer, cinnamon, and many useful and precious woods. It is not,
—
Prine
PHIM PAT
ARTISAN'S HOUSE AT SAIGON.
however, chiefly for local trade that France values Saigon. It isa
convenient station for commercial and postal steam-lines, by which
she has expected to maintain her prestige as a maritime power of
the first rank. Her experience has demonstrated the truth of two
political axioms: First, that the possession of extensive foreign col-
onies adds immeasurably to the credit and prestige of a nation;
secondly, that a nation which cannot maintain peace at home, can-
not permanently hold foreign possessions.
As our habit is, we take away from Saigon many photographic
illustrations
and admiral
to determin
official verifi
of the Fren
costly gold
Parisian bor
articles of E
. Second
hich had
ce. §=The
Among
nations,
m of lae-
it is not,
=
n. Itisa
by which
power of
ith of two
oreign col-
a nation;
1ome, can-
otographic
QUEEN OF CAMBODIA. 291
illustrations of manners, dress, and scenery. They are French,
and admirably executed. We are puzzled, however, in our efforts
to determine the truthfulness of one of them, notwithstanding. its
official verification, It represents the Queen of Cambodia, protégdée
of the French Empire, with naked feet and ankles, encircled by
costly gold bangles and jewels, while her head is covered with a
Parisian bonnet of the year 1862, presented to her, with other
articles of European fashion, by the French emperor.
QUEEN OF CAMBODIA.
THE EA
PART III.
THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, STRAITS
MALACCA, AND CEYLON.
THE CHINA
Our Distance from
from Boston.
—A Dutch §
Sumatra,—T]
China Sec
home, we rec
average of -on
as if we had |
our right the ¢
on our left, at
ands, the relic
enjoying calm
Singapore,
night! Stiflir
penance for in
At sunrise
board, with
They drove u
Australian bay
us, then to Mr
taking care of'
from home, o
CHAPTER I.
THE CHINA SEA, SINGAPORE, AND THE STRAITS OF SUNDA.
Qur Distance from Home.—Calm Seas and Temperate Breezes.—Singapore.—A Dispatch
from Boston.—The People of Singapore.—Their Habitations.—Life in the Tropics.
—A Dutch Steamer.—Our Crew.—A Question of Races.—Rather Hot.—Banca and
Sumatra.—The Straits of Sunda,
China Sea, January 9th.—In the five months since we left
home, we reckon in distances made, eighteen thousand miles, an
average of one hundred and twenty miles a day, although it seems
as if we had been at rest half the time. While we are passing on
our right the extreme promontory of Cochin China, we are leaving
on our left, at a distance of one hundred miles, the Philippine Isl-
ands, the relic of Spanish empire in the East Indies. We continue
enjoying calm seas and temperate breezes.
Singapore, January 11th.— Anchored at midnight, and what a
night! Stifling cabins and myriads of mosquitoes. Is this our
penance for invading the equator ?
At sunrise, the Wnited States consul, Mr. Jewell, came on
board, with Mr. Young, of the house of Busteed & Company.
They drove us, in a well-hung English carriage, behind two fine Nee |
Australian bays, first to the consulate, where a breakfast awaited om
us, then to Mr. Young’s pretty villa, on the hill, where he is kindly
taking care of us. Three months having elapsed since we heard -
from home, our first inquiry was, whether the telegraph-cable
296 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
has been laid from Point de Galles to this place. ‘ Yes,” said Mr,
Young, “I received to-day a dispatch which came from Boston in
twenty-four hours.” It is reassuring to come again into instan-
taneous communication with home and “the rest of mankind.”
The new wire brings European intelligence of six weeks’ later date
than we read at Hong-Kong. This intelligence, however, which
we so eagerly sought, was contained in a meagre statement,
“‘ Nothing important happened since republic proclaimed at Paris,
Much speculation. Probably Orleans family. Papers promise ex.
pulsion German armies. Perhaps anarchy.”
We enter British India from the east at Singapore. It is the
chief commercial town of the colony, acquired by purchase and or.
ganized by the British Government in 1824, as the Eastern Straits
Settlement; the name derived from the straits of Malacca. This
jurisdiction extends north by west to the island of Penang, off the
Malay Peninsula. Penang is officially regarded as the capital,
although the business of the government is carried on here. Sin-
gapore is a frea port. It has an aggregate population of one hun.
dred and fifty thousand, which is rapidly increasing. There are
five hundred Europeans. British subjects, together with less than
a dozen citizens of the United States, monopolize Western naviga-
tion and commerce. More than half of the population are Chinese,
chiefly merchants and bankers engaged in the domestic trade, and
that which is carried on with adjacent Asiatic countries—China,
Siam, Burmah, Java, and the Eastern Archipelago—others are me-
chanics and gardeners. It would be an effectual antidote to the
California croaking against the pagan Chinese, to see the protection
and encouragement which the British authorities extend to the
Chinese immigration here. The Jew has not failed to make good
his position. He is, as everywhere else, a broker in small and see.
ond-hand wares. ‘he residue of the population are chiefly native,
perhaps aboriginal Malays, with an accession of indolent and thurift-
less immigrants from Hindostan. The seamen are of many Orien-
tal races, natives of Goa, Javanese, Hindoos, Malays, Burmese, Siam-
ese, Cingalese, Abyssinians, and negroes. With this conglomerate
population, it is not singular that Singapore is a harbor for vagrants
and waifs f
say that Si
rope and th
Australia.
silks and t
tin of Band
tures. Lad
mart for art
people no 1]
imitations o
here to cur
home. But
quisitely be:
mounted wi
on every sid
ings in sanc
large trade.
The Eure
concessions,
clousness, cl
Western ide
Malays. W
were found
above the gr
rity against
retain the art
Here, as :
this one exhi
under the p
European sk
The jum
religions herd
ers contemp
Bramin tem]
severe-lookin
anda cathed
»” said Mr,
. Boston in
nto instan-
mankind.”
3 later date
ever, which
statement,
ed at Paris,
promise ex-
». It is the
hase and or-
stern Straits
lacea. This
1ang, off the
the capital,
. here. Sin-
of one hun-
There are
ith less than
tern naviga-
are Chinese,
ic trade, and
‘ries—China,
hers are me-
tidote to the
he protection
tend to the
o make good
mall and see:
hiefly native,
nt and thrift-
many Orien-
irmese, Siam-
conglomerate
r for vagrants
SINGAPORE AND ITS PEOPLE. 297
and waifs from all parts of the East. It is almost unnecessary to
say that Singapore is a central station of commerce between Eu-
rope and the far East, Burmah, China, Japan, the Archipelago, and
Australia. India opium, camphor, and lacquer, Java coffee, China
silks and teas, Manila tobacco, spices of Sumatra and Borneo, the
tin of Banda, ete., are exchanged for British and French manufac-
tures. Ladies will be interested in knowing that Singapore is the
mart for articles of jewelry and vertu of all sorts, such as civilized
people no less than barbarians delight in. Parisian and London
imitations of Oriental articles of those sorts are sold by the natives
here to curiosity-seeking Europeans, who would reject them at
home. But there is also an abundance ot native productions, ex-
quisitely beautiful; sea-shell, coral, precious stones, tigers’ claws
mounted with gold, tigers’ skins, and birds-of-paradise, tempt us
on every side, while the most delicate Chinese porcelain, and carv-
ings in sandal-wood and eagle-wood for incense, are staples of a
large trade.
The European dwellings do not differ from those in the Chinese
concessions, while those of the Asiatic immigrants, by greater spa-
ciousness, cleanliness, and comfort, manifest an advance toward
Western ideas. This improvement, however, is slow among the
Malays. When this race became known to the Europeans, they
were found living in buildings raised on stakes four or five feet
above the ground, for the desirable purpose of drainage and secu-
rity against reptiles and wild beasts. The Malays at Singapore
retain the architectural habits of their ancestors.
Here, as at Saigon, the foreigners maintain a public garden, but
this one exhibits the indescribable luxuriance of tropical vegetation,
under the painstaking -hand of the Chinese cultivator, directed by
European skill.
The jumble of diverse races has produced a strange medley of
religions here. There are several Chinese temples, which foreign-
ers contemptuously call, here as in China, “joss-houses;” one
Bramin temple, with its sacred cows and goats; half a dozen
severe-looking Mohammedan mosques; a Roman Catholic church ;
and a cathedral of the Church of England. The British Govern-
298 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
ment tolerates all these religions, from the same political motive
with which the emperors tolerated the various modes of worship
which prevailed in the Roman world. Although these various re.
ligions in India are not considered by the people as equally true, or
by the philosophers as equally false, the magistrate regards them as
equally useful. This toleration produces mutual indulgence, with.
out religious discord.
A secretary waited upon Mr. Seward, with an invitation from
the governor, who is now at Penang.
Mr. Young, with a very hurried invitation, gathered around us
a large and distinguished company of the official people, merchants
and bankers of Singapore, with whom we have passed the evening
pleasantly.
January 12th.—It has been a new experience to sleep in cham-
bers, with doors and windows opening on a broad veranda, with-
out the protection of panels or glass. It was an experience equally
novel, when, stepping on the veranda, at six o’clock, we found
tables spread with tea, delicate tropical fruits, and ices, while the
entire family, including ladies and beautiful children, joined us
there, having already returned from their customary exhilarating
walks and rides. So it seems that life in the tropics is not with-
out pleasant and invigorating excitements and exercise.
Stoomschepen Koningin der Nederlanden, January 12th, Fven-
éng.—Having again changed our nationality, we are afloat, this
time, under the tricolor flag of the Netherlands, carefully regis-
tered, and bound for the island of Java. Our side-wheel steamer
is rated at only four hundred and fifty tons, and we think is over-
rated at that. She is the first steamer which was built on that
island, and is thirty-four years old. Though not improved by age,
it must be admitted that she has held her own against time and
typhoon. Though the smallest craft we have yet sailed in, she
flourishes a long if not a great name. Heaven save all persons but
penal convicts from being cramped into such contracted berths, with
the mercury standing at 99°! We indulge this objurgation by
virtue of the
are small, th
hatchways a
the centre of
awning, and
torial luxurie
Navigation |
midships, o1
Liker,” mara
rum, and w
Dutch passer
larity, and w
with flowers
of various ar
arranged for
morning, wit
good cloudy
weather” at
We are
geographical
We are runn
Sumatra, wh
and which tl
equal parts.
has been sul
The other tl
ruled by nai
under Dutch
only inferior
Small isl:
give us for 4
straits of Ma
and smooth |]
verdure. W
miles, while
bright and ¢
ical motive
of worship
. VAYIOUS re.
ally true, or
rds them as
rence, with-
tation from
| around us
» merchants
the evening
ep in cham.
randa, with-
nee equally
, we found
s, while the
, joined us
exhilarating
is not with-
12th, Even-
afloat, this
fully regis-
eel steamer
ink is over:
ult on that
ved by age,
t time and
iled in, she
persons but
berths, with
irgation by
THE ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 299
virtue of the traveller’s license to find fault. Although the cabins
are small, they are “as neat as a Birmingham pin;” and, while the
hatchways are open, the ventilation is perfect. A table stands in
the centre of the upper deck, protected by a permanent hurricane
awning, and remains covered throughout the whole day with equa-
torial luxuries. But the peculiar institution of the Dutch Steam
Navigation Company is, another table standing across the beam,
midships, on which decanters are always kept full of “ Kaneel
Liker,” maraschino, absinthe, curacoa, Schiedam schnapps, brandy,
rum, and we know not what other “appetizers,” to which the
Dutch passengers resort continually, without a suspicion of singu-
larity, and without expense. The platform of the deck is covered
with flowers enough to constitute a conservatory, and with baskets
of various and exquisite fruits, thoughtfully brought on board, and
arranged for us, by our consul. When we came on board this
morning, with many friends, they congratulated us on having “a
good cloudy day.” It was the first time we ever knew “cloudy
weather ” at sea the subject of felicitation.
We are already reminded that we have entered on a new
geographical and political study—that of the Oriental Archipelago.
We are running down the northeastern coast of the rich island of
Sumatra, which is of itself almost large enough to be a continent,
and which the equator divides, as it divides the whole world, into
equal parts. Only one-fourth of it, with a population of a million,
has been subjected to Western rule, and this is a Dutch colony.
The other three-fourths, with three millions of people, are states
ruled by native princes, some of whom are independent, others
under Dutch protection. Sumatra has a commerciai importance
only inferior in the Archipelago to that of Java.
Small islands cluster together so closely on our left hand as to
give us for a channel almost an inland sea, a continuation of the
straits of Malacca. It is in few places more than ten miles wide,
and smooth like a river. Its shores are low and wear a rich green
verdure. We noticed a profuse shower of rain, at a distance of two
miles, while the sky beyond it, as well as over our heads, was
bright and cloudless. Our captain, whose professional career dates
nae =
300 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
from the building of the stoomschepen Koningin der Nederlanden,
assures us that, while rain is frequent in all parts of this equatorial
voyage, it is always raining at the place where that particular
shower was falling.
Our crew, drawn from Singapore, is a mixture of the Asiatic sea.
men of that place of which we have spoken. Those of them who
come from Western or Southern Asia, wear a light, graceful, and
picturesque costume, strongly contrasting with the plain and coarse
dress of the Chinese. They evidently make faithful use of the bath.
Varying in complexion from tawny to black, they have regular and
delicate features. They exhibit nothing of that stolid reserve
which causes the Chinese to be regarded as sullen and contemptu-
ous. Their different languages are based on the ancient Sanscrit.
Each has an alphabet. Perhaps it is for this reason that they ac-
quire any European language easily, and speak it with much cor-
rectness. It will be a curious study for us to inquire how much
this greater adaptability of the southern and western Asiatic races
to European intercourse is due to their earlier and more intimate
acquaintance with foreigners. We are now inclined to think that
a closer ethnological affinity exists between the European and the
Hindoo and Malay nations than between the Europeans and the
Mongolians ; and, again, that there is a closer affinity between the
Hindoo and the Malay nations than between the Mongolian and
the Malay. However it may have happened, there is a contrast
quite as perceptible between the rude and vigorous population of
Northern China and the gentle and docile natives of Sumatra and
Malacca, as there was at the time of the discovery of America be-
tween the fierce tribes of New England and New York and the
harmless natives of San Salvador and Hispaniola.
Of the Island of Banca, January 13th. Fahrenheit 90°.—
Rather hot for January, according to our way of thinking. They
say that latitude affects climate, but we do not see it or feel it.
Yesterday we left Singapore on the parallel of latitude one degree
seventeen minutes north. At one o’clock this morning we cross
the equator, and now we are two degrees south of it. Yet, for any
consciousne
no degrees |
the equator
minimis”? ¢
We hav
and lazy.
While our ¢
measuremer
Our passens
They show
every hour 1
to get hot a
Crossing
We felt no
berths, the «
Charts s
Banca seem
cultivation.
which, cove
float about i
course, ever
plants and ff
this impulse
ing mass, ha
constrictor 1
ship of the |
ing the “lo:
might.
Here we
Islands, Sur
Booro, Cer:
around us.
down telegrs
and leopards.
in coils like.
groves; of 7
derlanden,
equatorial
particular
Asiatic sea-
them who
aceful, and
and coarse
of the bath.
‘egular and
lid reserve
contemptu-
at Sanscrit.
at they ac-
- much cor-
how much
siatic races
re intimate
think that
an and the
s and the
etween the
golian and
a contrast
pulation of
matra and
America be-
rk and the
het 90°.—
ing. They
or feel it.
one degree
g we cross
et, for any
A BOA AFLOAT. 3801
consciousness we have, the weather at the three points admits of
no degrees of comparison, It is hot at Singapore—it is hot under
the equator—it is just as hot here. Perhaps the maxim “ We curat
minimis” applies to the laws of Nature as well as human laws.
We have always read that life on a Dutch sailing-craft is easy
and lazy. The Koningin der Nederlanden does not disprove it.
While our captain insists that he makes seven and a half knots, our
measurement on the chart shows that we are really going only six.
Our passengers, however, are the most active people in the world.
They show their vigor in two ways—one in changing their dress
every hour to get cool, the other in taking schnapps every half-hour
to get hot again.
Crossing the line, after all, especially at night, is no great affair.
We felt no concussion, and, as the passengers were all in their
berths, the customary nautical ceremonies were omitted.
Charts show us high mountains in the interior on either side.
Banca seems covered with forests, interrupted here and there by
cultivation. Sumatra presents a low, sedgy shore, large pieces of
which, covered with jungle, are continually breaking loose, and
float about in the forms of pretty green islets on the dark sea. Of
course, every one desires to haul up to them and sce what are the
plants and flowers which cover them. A Dutch skipper yielded to
this impulse a short time ago. The captain, alighting on the float-
ing mass, had just set his foot ou a cactus-stump, when a huge boa-
constrictor reared his glossy head and proclaimed his proprietor-
ship of the island by violent hisses. The invader retreated, leav-
ing the “lord of the isle” to navigate his crazy craft as best he
might.
Here we are with the Malay Peninsula just behind us, the Spice
Islands, Sumatra, Banca, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Floris, Timor,
Booro, Ceram, New Guinea, and a tlousand lesser ones all
around us. We read and “hear tell” of elephants that break
down telegraph-poles in rubbing their hard hides; of tigers, lions,
and leopards, always prowling through the jungle; of shiny serpents
in coils like cables; of monkeys playing their antics in palm-tree
groves; of parrots, paroquets, peacocks, and birds-of-paradise, that
. =
% SF
302 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
excel the floral vegetation in brilliancy of colors; and yet all that
we can see of them is occasionally a captive beast in a menagerie, or
a stuffed bird in a curiosity-shop at Singapore—a new illustration
of a discovery heretofore announced, that going round the world is
not the way to see it. Nevertheless, it is something to learn in the
near vicinity the topography of these islands, which are the native
homes of the various tribes of the Malay race; to learn something
of the character and condition of that gentle race, whose languid
energies are now excited to activity and directed by their Dutch
conquerors. They possess a wealth peculiarly their own—the
metals, invaluable teakwood, and coffee, with spices, dyes, and
gums, aromatics, and roots used in art and medicine, brilliant
feathers and glossy skins of beasts of prey, which taste and luxury
require in every condition. Even this little island on our left reg-
ulates, by its production, the market of tin as effectually as the old
Almaden mines in Spain and the New Almaden mines in Calitor-
nia regulate that of quicksilver throughout the world. Moreover,
there are, in various parts of these islands, ruins of cities and tem.
ples, which seem to indicate a primeval civilization, which has
passed away without leaving either record or tradition. By-and-by,
*ommercial intercourse will render research among these antiqii-
ties practicable, perhaps profitable. Meanwhile, we must be satis-
fied with an inspection of Java, a design which we shall be able te
execute if the Koningin der Nederlanden shall live to complete
this, the ten hundred and twentieth of her voyages.
Despite our resolution, this equatorial travel is working a
change in our habits. The heat becomes insupportable at ten
o’clock, and drives us to a siesta. At sunset, a breeze springs up,
clouds gather, a brilliant display of electricity begins, which is con-
tinued until midnight, and brings refreshing rains. So the hot day
having become our night, the cool night becomes our day for exer-
cise, writing, and conversation.
January 15th.—We crossed, last night, the entrance of the
straits of Sunda, the great channel of trade between Europe, China,
and Japan. Can any one doubt the unity of the human family,
when he r
United Sta
tant sea ¢
which rend
Koningin ¢
unbecominy
closed, the
common sl¢
yet all that
enagerie, or
illustration
she world ig
learn in the
» the native
| something
se languid
heir Dutch
own—the
dyes, and
ie, brilliant
and luxury
our left reg.
y as the old
3 in Califor.
Moreover,
es and tem-
which has
By-and-by,
ese antiqui-
ist’ be satis-
l be able to
to complete
working a
able at. ten
springs up,
‘hich is con-
the hot day
ay for exer-
ince of the
rope, China,
nan family,
A MONSOON, 3038
when he recalls the fact that the civil war which convulsed the
United States, five years ago, had its painful episodes in this dis-
tant sea? We encountered in the passage one of those monsoons
which render it difficult and dangerous. The storm caused the
Koningin aforesaid to dance in a manner most undignified and
unbecoming this grave and “ancient mariner.’ The ports were
closed, the cabins grew unendurable, and the deck became the
common sleeping-room of the passengers.
mono
SINGAPORE.
CHAPTER II.
THE CAPITAL OF JAVA.
The City of Batavia.—The Hotel des Indes.—A New-England Sabbath.—Malay Servants,
—The King’s Plain.—Population of Java.—The Queen of the East.—Departure for
Buitenzorg.—Manner of Travelling.—The Vice-Regal Residence.—The Climate of
Java.—The Baths of Buitenzorg.
Batavia, January 16th.—At sunrise we were tossing in the
open roadstead, four miles from the shore. The monsoon was past,
though the sea had not subsided. The skies cleared at eight o’clock,
giving us a view of a long, level, green coast, swelling upward into
lofty blue mountains. There is much less shipping here than at
Singapore, but the diversity of flags indicates a not less various
commerce. The smallest of all steam-tugs was seen bounding over
the waves and distributing passenyers and freights, among steamers
which are going out to neighboring Dutch ports throughout the
Archipelago. When she had done this, she rounded up to our
steamer, and received us on board. On the way, we passed a
steamship-of-war, freighted with troops, going to repress a native
rebellion in Borneo.
A pretty stream, which once stagnated in the jungle, has been
converted into a broad canal, that now affords navigation from the
roadstead to the heart of the city of Batavia. The custom-house
officers took our own statement for our number, ages, occupations,
luggage, and intentions. Malay drivers, the smallest men we ever
saw, with the heaviest sort of European barouches, drawn by mini-
ature ponic
course, bor
ered in gro
. r
mimosa. 1]
deep marbl
eal flowers,
den statuar
country, 18
swiftly on §
East, belon
has long b
closely doe}
have gone
We dro
Malay Servants,
—Departure for
‘he Climate of
sing in the
mM was past,
ght o’clock,
ipward into
ere than at
less various
inding over
ng steamers
oughout the
up to our
re passed a
SS a native
le, has been
on from the
istom-house
yecupations,
1en we ever
vn by mini-
THE STREETS OF BATAVIA.
ature ponies, whirled on a gallop over streets smooth as a race-
course, bordered by substantial white cottage dwellings, embow-
ered in groves of pine, palmetto, palm, bamboo, India-rubber, and
mimosa. These cottages, which might be mistaken for villas, have
deep marble porticoes or broad verandas, set off with vases of tropi-
al flowers, and make an effective display of small but tasteful gar-
den statuary. This colonial town, like the cities of the mother-
STREET IN BATAVIA.
country, is traversed by well-built canals. Hlorse-cars are moving
swiftly on smooth street-railways. This enterprise, so novel in the
Kast, belongs to Mr. Pells, who, though a native of the Netherlands,
has long been United States banker, trader, and vice-consul. So
closely does the city assimilate to Holland, that it seems to us we
have gone quite through the East, and are already in Europe.
We drove to the Hotel des Indes, the first tavern we have had
306 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
occasion to seek since we left Salt Lake City, if we except the Chi-
nese inns on the way from Peking to the Great Wall. This hotel
is a building of one story, surrounding a circular court, with a
higher central edifice, which contains the proper offices, drawing.
rooms, and saloons, a veranda surrounding the whole. The outer
buildings, occupied as private apartments, are connected by corri-
dors with the centre building. In a scrupulously neat bathing.
house attached to our apartment, we enjoyed, for the first time, the
full luxury of an Oriental bath, for the bath has not yet been sue.
cessfully introduced into the Furopean settlements in Japan and
China. This bath consists of a marble basin fifteen feet in diame-
ter, the water exactly the temperature of the air, clear, and deep
enough for swimming.
It being Sunday, we composed ourselves early for the enjoy-
MARRIED WOMAN OF JAVA,
ment of a New-England Sabbath, a day of absolute rest. But this
was not to be. A host of native sireet-pedlers had followed us to
3
the hotel.
crowded int
in spite of
their cheap
maintained
oniy in the |
with our d¢
But we call
embroidered
trasting witl
table was ho
smother the
diments? J
obtrusive, b
Tidy and ev
with a guild
The Mak
peans or Mo
distinguishal
Mr. Pell
o'clock and
“King’s Pla
four miles ]
however, ar
common pas
find a pretty
ping the ric
attendants, s
tume.
In going
Band,” and
promenade
military anc
grotesque di
lete in Eure
to cover thei
ot the Chi-
This hotel
rt, with a
drawing-
The outer
d by corri-
t bathing-
t time, the
t been sue-
Japan and
t in diame-
, and deep
the enjoy-
. But this
owed us to
~S
MALAY SERVANTS, 307
the hotel. They sat down and chattered on the veranda, they
crowded into our parlor, “singly, by pairs, and by the dozen,” and,
in spite of repulse and remonstrance, forced upon us a display of
their cheap but ostentatious wares. For the first time, we have
maintained a resolution against the itinerant merchant, yielding
oniy in the case of a blind trader. Even he left us, at last, weary
with our delay in finding the guilders required for the purchase.
But we called him back and bought a pair of green-velvet gold-
embroidered slippers. Breakfast at twelve. Its excellence, con-
trasting with that of breakfasts at home, was that nothing on the
table was hot. On what principle is it that Europeans in the East
smother the delicate flavor of rice in thirty or forty piquant con-
diments? All the servants are Malays. They are meek and un-
obtrusive, but not servile; willing and diligent, but not quick.
Tidy and even tasteful in dress, they make an attractive costume
with a guilder’s worth of printed muslin.
The Malay is, on an average, two inches shorter than the Euro-
peans or Mongolian, with sca: zely any beard, and the sexes are un-
distinguishable by their dress.
Mr. Pells, advised, from Singapore, of our coming, came at one
o'clock and immediately removed us to his pleasant villa on the
“King’s Plain,” which is the Hyde Park of Batavia, a shaded lawn,
four miles long, and half a mile wide. Primitive national habits,
however, are not relinquished here. The “ King’s Plain” is the
common pasturage of the milch-cows of the city. An artist would
find a pretty study in this quiet scene, in which the animals, crop-
ping the rich grass, seem scarcely more at leisure than their Maley
attendants, sitting under the trees, in picturesque attitude and cos-
tume.
In going to our new residence, we stopped to hear the “ King’s
Band,” and lingered there until sunset witnessing the evening
promenade of the whole European population, which, including
military and naval officers, numbers six thousand. There was a
grotesque display of carriages and liveries of fashions now obso-
lete in Europe. Gentlemen as well as ladies and children disdain
to cover their heads after sunset, while all “sorts and conditions of
sn =
3808 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
men” wear white gloves, and all have the staid and gentle Dutch
manner. Will our friends consult the tables of population? We
think the island of Java is the most densely-populated country in
A JAVANESE GIRL.
the world. There are fourteen millions of people within an area
of forty-five thousand square miles. The city of Batavia, with a
diameter of eight miles, contains one hundred and fifty thousand
inhabitants—more than halt of these are Chinese. The residue,
with the exception of the few Europeans, is divided nearly equally
between the two native Malay races, Javanese and Sundese. All
the Malays are Mohammedans. The Chinese retain their native
heathenism. The Europeans, of course, are Christians, but free
from religious zeal or fervor.
Batavia challenges the title of “Queen of the East.”
it presents a delightful contrast to the towns of Japan and China,
while its profusion of equatorial shade-trees and flowers makes it
far more pleasing than any place we have at home. The settlement
of New York, by the Dutch, and that of Java were contempora-
Certainly
neous. Ea
New York
races arour
placed by -
around Bat:
than at the
only twenty
any Europe
now covere¢
tain their f
whole islanc
trast there
duced result
The Gov
visited Mr. |
province.“
at Buitenzo1
guests there
us, but seen
Our mornin
rains made
Buitenz
our hour of
luggage, anc
until half-ps
pressed yes
the city anc
decide by w
whether bu
with its be:
aided, we sl
Mr. Pell’s
the truth, n
beauty, nor
for many u
ntle Dutch
tion? We
country in
thin an area
avia, with a
fty thousand
The residue,
parly equally
nndese. All
their native
ins, but free
” Certainly
n and China,
ers makes it
he settlement
contempora-
VISIT TO BUITENZORG. 309
neous. Each was surrounded by aboriginal tribes—those around
New York sparse, those around Batavia populous. The aboriginal
yaces around New York have virtually disappeared, and are re-
placed by millions of European derivation; the aboriginal races
around Batavia, on the other hand, remain in even greater force
than at the time of the conquest, while the European population is
only twenty-seven thousand. Again, neither the Netherlands nor
any European state has kept a foothold within the vast territory
now covered by the United States; while the Dutch not only re-
tain their first dominion in Java, but have extended it over the
whole island and a large portion of the Archipelago. What a con-
trast there has been in the processes of civilization which have pro-
duced results so widely different in the two hemispheres !
The Governor, or, as he is called, the “ Residente” of Batavia,
visited Mr. Seward to-day, and tendered us the hospitalities of the
province. The Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies resides
at Buitenzorg, thirty-six miles distant, and has invited us to be his
guests there. The intense heat to-day has not only overpowered
us, but seems to have overpowered the whole population of Batavia.
Our morning rest was protracted until evening, and then deluging
‘
rains made us prisoners.
Buitenzorg, January 18th—We yesterday appointed six for
our hour of departure. It was our own fault, or rather that of our
luggage, and not the fault of the post-office, that we were delayed
until half-past seven. The admiration of Batavia, which we ex-
pressed yesterday, was somewhat modified as we came through
the city and suburbs this morning. We were, at first, unable to
decide by what name we should call the dwellings of Europeans,
whether bungalows, cottages, or villas. We now found them, each
with its beautiful grove, so exactly like to every other, that, un-
aided, we shall be quite unable, on our return to the city, to find
Mr. Pell’s residence, or the strect on which it stands. To tell
the truth, moreover, the right line in geometry is not the line of
beauty, nor is the paraliciogram, although a very convenient figure
for many uses, especially adapted to landscape-gardening. Nor
21
310 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
was it altogether gratifying to find the “King’s Plain” soaking
and miry, much more suitable for a dairy-meadow than a park,
These strictures, however, we now think hypercritical; we must
still pronounce Batavia the most attractive city we have ever seen.
The road to Buitenzorg is well graded, perfectly macadamized,
and, what is better, completely bordered and shaded on either side
BCENE IN JAVA.
by high, thick hedges of heliotrope, cactus, and creepers, all in
bloom. Over these hedges, the light bamboo lines the avenue,
opening only to reveal the native cottages, peeping from under
palm-groves, All the people we see, whether about their humble
dwellings, or moving on the high-road, seem busy, contented, and
happy. Only two beggars approached us on the way, and these
timidly; both were blind.
The mar
never know
Europe. W
six passenge
We carry nc
boxes under
more are ad
runners (Cop
ponies up to
stages of sev
each stage, t
twenty cents
If Batav:
supremely s
city. The a
smoother sw
exhibit. Fy
lofty shade-tr
heim—howev
itol at Wash
colony, it ha
The governo
without some
seem to rega
cumscribed ¢
The Dutg
the Hague.
time of the
titles of sults
of the territa
descendants
really divest
titular rank,
Seve
have a some
ment,
tions, the exq
” soaking
n a park.
we must
ver secn.
adamized,
either side
pers, all in
the avenue,
‘rom. under
eir humble
tented, and
, and these
A FASCINATING RESIDENCE. dll
The manner of travel here is on the postal system, which was
never known in America, and is now superseded by railroads in
Europe. We have Mr. Pell’s stately old coach, which has seats for
six passengers inside, and ample room for four servants outside.
We carry no trunks, our wardrobes being stored in the capacious
boxes under the seats. Four horses draw us over the level plain;
more are added in climbing hills. The driver has two assistants or
runners (lopers), who, by constantly applying their lashes, keep the
ponies up to running-speed. They are whisked off and replaced at
stages of seven miles. We made the journey in three hours. At
each stage, the traveller pays four cents to each loper, and ten or
twenty cents to the driver.
If Batavia is fascinating, this suburban viceregal vesidence is
supremely so. The palace stands at the south side of the native
city. The approach is through a park, covered with a greener and
smoother sward, we imagine, than even England or Holland can
exhibit. Five hundred deer are seen reclining or feeding under the
lofty shade-trees. The palace is said to be on the model of Blen-
heim—however this may be, we recognize the plan of our own Cap-
itol at Washington. Like every thing else in this favorite Dutch
colony, it happily combines good taste with elegance and comfort.
The governor-general has received us very kindly, although not
without something of the stiffness of official ceremony. The ladies
seem to regard us as an accession, not unwelcome, to a society cir-
cumscribed and somewhat monotonous.
The Dutch East Indies are ruled absolutely by directions from
the Hague. Practically, the governor-general is viceroy. At the
time of the conquest, two native sovereigns, with the pompous
titles of sultan and emperor, divided the island between them, one
of the territories being known as Java, the other as Sunda. The
descendants of each of these sovereigns being subsidized, though
really divested of power, retain certain contracted domains, with
titular rank, in subordination to the authority of the Dutch Govern-
ment. Several other native kings, subsidized in the same way,
have a somewhat similar domain and tenure. With these qualifica-
tions, the executive government is administered by the governor-
general, w
Home gove
The Du
natives, ha
interval of
Napoleonic
trol of Fra
Britain.
Januar
It has no |
LS
yj
D<i>g
Se AA
=
ma |
FIN™MENT
7OVE
JAVA.
Mow
GOVERNMENT
LILY POND, 313
oO
general, with the aid of an executive council appointed by the
Home government.
The Dutch, not without severe and frequent contests with the
natives, have held sway here since the year 1610, with only an
interval of from 1811 to 1816, when among the events of the
Napoleonic war in Europe, Holland having passed under the con-
trol of France, Java was seized and held for five years by Great
sritain.
January 19th.—Shall we note the climatic features of Java ?
It has no spring and no autumn—only summer and winter. It
LILY POND PALACE GROUNDS, JAVA,
314 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
rains all summer, and is comparatively dry during the harvest.
time in winter. The present season is the summer. It rained so
constantly yesterday that we could not enter a carriage, or step
on the ground. This morning, Governor-General Myer, with the
ladies, gave us a drive in the botanical gardens attached to the
palace. All the world knows that they are scientifically planted,
but why give them a technical name? They are of princely di-
mensions, and are inconceivably magnificent, for they contain, or
are understood to contain, every attainable tropical tree, plant, or
flower. Of the palm alone there are a hundred species. Dense
groves of tree-ferns are interlaced with myriads of orchids, coy-
ered with what one might well imagine to be the very flowers of
paradise, and we were at a loss to say which form of life in the
tropics, the vegetable or the animal, excels in color. Man’s hand
has planted and trained the trees and flowers, but the gorgeous
troops of birds which inhabit them are voluntary residents there,
making the shade “vocal with their music.” These groves are
interspersed with lakes, whose waters murmur under the per-
fumed pressure of the crimson lily and the sacred lotus. These
lakes are the homes of some varieties of tropical birds; swans,
black and white, are domesticated in them; and the cockatoo,
with his creamy plumage, seems unconscious of imprisonment in
his spacious gilded cage, so constructed as to afford him ample
sunshine and cool bath.
Alighting from. our carriages, we took a path which leads
through a bamboo-grove so dense that the down which its delicate
leaves cast on the smooth gravel takes the form of a tender moss.
This moss, taking root, interweaves so closely that it is not de-
ranged by the footstep. The very air of this fairy grove seemed
to us to hold a soothing verdure. But it is not alone in the lakes,
groves, and lawns, that the feathered race contents itself at Buiten-
zorg:
“This guest of summer,
The temple-haunting martlet does approve
By his loved masonry, that heaven’s breath
Smiles sweet and wooingly here.”
At suns
eaves of the
by a careles
break aroun
too much o
to excite a y
least an occ;
Singapore r
wins our tho
to delight in
The trut]
though univ
e harvest-
rained so
re, or step
+ with the
ed to the
y planted,
rincely di-
eontain, or
», plant, or
2s. Dense
chids, cov-
flowers of
life in the
[an’s hand
e gorgeous
ents there,
groves are
r the per-
us. These
ds; swans,
> cockatoo,
sonment in
him ample
rhich leads
its delicate
pnder moss.
is not de-
pve seemed
n the lakes,
f at Buiten-
TROPICAL FOLIAGE. "S15
At sunset, thousands of martins gather for the night under the
eaves of the palace. Sitting closely to each other, they are mistaken
by a careless observer for a blackened bead, which extends without
break around the cornice of the entire edifice. Perhaps we dilate
TROPICAL FOLIAGE, JAVA.
too much on tropical Nature, but its first effect upon all minds is
to excite a wish never to leave it. We almost contracted for at
least an occasional home at Nagasaki. We left Hong-Kong and
Singapore reluctantly; but Batavia, and more than all Buitenzorg,
wins our thoughts irresistibly away from all that is practical in life,
to delight in repose and serene contemplation.
The truth, however, is, that the admiration of tropical scenery,
though universal, wears off as suddenly as it comes. We have not
316 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC,
thus far found an American or European content with a genial
clime. The merchant, mariner, or missionary, even the women
and children, stay here against their wills, and wait impatiently for
their release this month or the next, or, at farthest, this year or the
next.
If we should forget every thing else at Buitenzorg, we are not
likely to forget its baths. Leaving the palace-door, and driving
through a winding, palm-shaded lane, we came to the bamboo.
grove. Dismissing carriage and attendants there, we penetrated
JAVANESE FRUIT.
to its dark centre, by a tangled foot-path. There we found a
marble basin, eighty feet across, filled with flowing water. The
depth is regulated at will, and a slight bamboo rail is stretched
across the t
tect the ba
impenetrab
we thought
shell, punge
and the inr
disclosed th
th a genial
the women
atiently for
year or the
we are not
and driving
he bamboo:
- penetrated
we found a
water. The
| ig stretched
SCENE IN JAVA.
across the basin for security against accident, Tall palm-trees pro-
rect the bather from the sun, while the surrounding grove is an
impenetrable screen. Coming out of the bath, we picked up what
we thought to be a green walnut. On removing the hard, acrid
shell, pungent scarlet mace betrayed itself; breaking through this,
and the inner shell, which it covered, a fragrant, white, milky pulp
disclosed the incipient nutmeg.
SCENE IN JAVA.
CHAPTER IIT.
EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR.
A Balking Horse.—Cultivation of Rice. —Tropical Flowers. —Surabaya.—The Regent Pra.
wiro.—Dutch Colonization. —How Java is governed.—Bandong.—The Regent and
the Interpreter.—A Gouty Monarch.—The Regent’s Income.—How he spends it.
Surabaya, January 213t.—The governor-general and his esti.
mable family dismissed us, after a very early breakfast, on an cy.
eursion which is affording us an opportunity to see something of the
mountains, and more of the simple people of this beautiful island,
Still travelling in Mr. Pell’s spacious coach, with government
orders for relays, we drove rapidly through the quaint and quiet
streets of the pretty little city of Buitenzorg. So long as we kept
the plain, we had only one annoyance—a balking horse—one ot
eight. Peasantry, at every halt, assisted the lopers in rolling the
heavy carriage against the refactory animal’s heels, and so, whether
he willed to go or not, we got on. Crossing a small stream, we
climbed irregular voleanic mountains, and came through a gorge
between two of them; the one seven thousand feet high, the other
four thousand. The mountain-sides are terraced with rice-fields,
one above the other. These fields were covered with standing
water. The successive terraces show the crop at every stage of its
growth. On the upper terrace, the young plant is seen, resembling
grass just sprouted from the seed; on the level just below, single
stalks of rice just transplanted ; below this, fields of the grain at
successive periods of its growth; until, at the foot of the mountain,
it is already
for neither er
in Java. Th
individual sté
disobeys.
Rice-eulti
we think, won
crop from its
necessary to
left to rot in
cradle or sick
procure a thr
here each bla
ing until its
gathered, the
withstanding
chief food of
of the globe.
than that of
most careless
combination
tain-streams.
conducted ar
mountain, wl
sparkling cas
divided, and
successive ter
We knov
home, but wi
which surpas
We are
trouble of t
Al
look, are inn
tree-ferns thi
fragrant hed
tenzorg.
he Regent Pra.
he Regent and
he spends it,
nd his esti-
st, On an ex.
ething of the
tiful island,
government
nt and quiet
x as we kept
yrse—one of
1 rolling the
so, whether
1 stream, we
ugh a gorge
rh, the other
h rice-fields,
ith standing
y stage of its
1, resembling
velow, single
the grain at
1e mountain,
RICE-CULTIVATION, 3d19
it is already ripened, and ready for the knife. We say the knife,
for neither cradle, nor scythe, nor sickle, is used in the rice-fields
in Java. The Koran commands the husbandman to cut off each
individual stalk singly. This injunction the pious Moslem never
disobeys.
Rice-eultivation is a very laborious process. A prairie farmer,
we think, would despair, if he were obliged to transplant his wheat-
crop from its first bed, plant by plant; he would die, if it were
necessary to water it, even once during its growth. It would be
left to rot in the field if he were denied a “reaper,” or at least a
cradle or sickle; it would waste in the barn or stack if he could not
procure a threshing-machine or a fanning-mill. On the other hand,
here each blade of rice is removed to a new bed, and from its plant-
ing until its ripening it is irrigated once every day. When it is
gathered, the kernels are separated from the husk by hand. Not-
withstanding this vast labor, rice is the chief production, as it is the
chief food of all the Asiatic races, constituting half the population
of the globe. The cause of the productiveness of Java (greater
than that of any portion of the earth) readily discloses itself to the
most careless observer as he passes through the country. It isa
combination of equatorial heat, volcanic soil, and perennial moun-
tain-streams. These rivulets are subdivided at their springs, and
conducted around and down the winding terraces to the base of the
mountain, where they are in like manner gathered and poured in
sparkling cascades down the steep declivity; then to be again sub-
divided, and made to perform the same gentle service as before to
successive terraces below.
We know well enough the slow progress of science and art at
home, but who taught this Malay peasantry this skill in hydraulics,
which surpasses that of any civilized people 4
We are now secing that we might have spared ourselves the
trouble of threading the walks of the botanical gardens at Bui-
tenzorg. All around us, every way we turn, whichever way we
look, are innumerable species of palm, the great banyan, exquisite
tree-ferns thirty or forty feet high, sparkling with parasitic flowers ;
fragrant hedges of heliotrope fifteen feet high, now in full bloom—
520 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
Dad
not monotonous blue as with us, but of every color and hue—altey.
nating with other hedges of the grotesque cactus of a hundred
shapes and equally splendid in bloom. Every one is familiar with
the lily of the valley, but we find here the lily of the mountain,
stately flower giving out even a sweeter odor than its little name.
sake. Mountains shine with white lilies, and lakes with the incoy.
parable loti: Although coffee-plantations spread a broad, dark
shadow behind flowery hedges, yet the bright green rice-fields are
never out of the landscape. Where these allow space, there are
meadows gay with azaleas of infinite variety, set in borders of pink
and white and crimson oleanders, which attain here the stature of
the magnolia.
We hove found rest and refreshment at the village of Surabaya,
a pleasant resort in a mountain emphitheatre, for the dwellers on
the sea-coast. The clearing ap of a rain-storm has just given us
instead of the rainbow, an equatorial phenomenon-—a broad, pris.
matie column, stretching from the centre of the heavens, quite
down the mountain-side, resting on the plain below and flooding
the valley with a gorgeous light.
The fa2/e @héte does not differ, either in pretension, costliness,
or meavreness, from like service at Catskill or other mountain
resorts in our owil country.
Sjiandjioer, January 21st.—We left our balky horse at Sur
baya. A brake, with an iron shoe, was fixed on a hind-wheel. Not:
withstanding these checks, we were rolling rapidly down into the
next valley, when the alarm sounded that a wheel was on fire. It
was extinguished, and we were thundering forward with greater
velocity than before, when we had another fright—the chain of the
shoe broke. <A rope of buffalo hide was substituted for it, and we
had scarcely taken the road again, when the shoe itself gave way,
But, with careful driving, and our lopers holding us back, we
escaped harm. So at six o’clock we entered this very pretty vi:
lage, which, although a native one, is laid out in streets and squares,
with that degree of geometrical precision, and ornamented with
that peculiar taste, which is everywhere so observable in the Neth-
orlands. The
coming, and |
were met outs
uniform, and
than the Cap
porte-cochére,
He is a lineal
jaqj ura in th
ors of Radhe
fied and hanc
he wears a tu
jacket, with
sparkle thre
it neck and
figures embl
trousers, \
hue—altey.
a@ hundred
miliar with
nountain, a
little name.
h the incom.
broad, dark
ce-fields are
e, there are
ers of pink
e stature of
of Surabaya,
dwellers on
st given us
broad, pris.
avens, quite
nd flooding
n, costliness,
er mountain
rse at Sura-
vheel, Not:
own into the
3 on fire.
with greater
chain of the
or it, and we
If gave way,
us back, we
‘y pretty vil:
sand squares,
mented with
in the Neth
REGENT PRAWIRO DA KEDYA. 321
erlands. The governor-general having dispatched notice of our
coming, and also sent with us his young kinsman Mr. Lowe, we
were met outside of the town by a native subaltern officer, in Dutch
uniform, and conducted to the palace in the centre of a park larger
than the Capitol-grounds at Washington. Tere, under a tasteful
porte-cochére, we were received by the Regent Prawiro da Kedya.
He is a lineal descendant of the long-since dethroned Kings of Pad-
jadjura in the western empire of Java, and bears the titular hon-
THE REGENT PRAWIRO DA KEDYA,
ors of Radhe Sonnengoniz. The regent is thirty years old, digni-
fied and handsome, and has pleasing manners. .\ Mohammedan,
he wears a turban of orange and black muslin, a tight black-cloth
jacket, with large gold buttons, and a standing collar, on which
sparkle three enormous diamonds, and with the whitest of linen
it neck and wrist. A sarong of gay-colored muslin, painted with
figures emblematic of his rank, hangs from his waist over black
trousers. White stockings and gold-embroidered velvet shoes com-
399 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
plete his dress. He wears at his side a short sword, with scabbard
of gold, and hilt profusely covered with diamonds.
Owing to the humidity of the climate, a customary law of land.
scape gardening is so far reversed that the area which immediately
surrounds the palace, although ornamented with trees, is paved
with gravel instead of being a green lawn. The palace, one story
in height, is equal in its dimensions to the White House. The
model and style of the buildings are perfect, but the materials are
fragile, and the construction unsubstantial and cheap. There is q
ludicrous contrast between the vaulted ceiling resting on a double
row of graceful columns, and the rough, uneven bamboo floor go
light that the whole house trembles under every footstep. The fur.
niture, entirely European, plain and ill selected, must have been
Pa supplied by some second-hand dealer in Amsterdam. Our princely
. host showed us our several apartments. The dinner at which he
presided had the substantial character of a European feast with
the addition of the curry, fruits, and sweets, of the island. After
leaving the table we were serenaded by a band of native musicians,
Their music is derived from Hindostan. The instruments are
reeds, bells, and a sort of violin. The tones are soft and monoto.
nous, and free from discord, with a barely perceptible melody. Too
weary to sit through the protracted entertainment, we retired to
rest, with the strains still falling on our ears like the rustling of a
gentle wind through the tree-tops.
Sjiandjioer, January 22d.—Dutch colonization has a story as
simple as its results are wonderful. The Netherlands Government
seventy or eighty years ago acquired the Dutch East India Com.
pany’s titles to its possessions in the East, and substituted itself
in the place of that great mercantile establishment. Using the
national force as occasion required to perfect and maintain acqui-
sitions, they brought the whole of Java under their political rule.
Having done this, the Government appropriated absolutely to the
crown whatever lands were unoccupied. They compounded with
the two native sovereigns before mentioned and their vassal kings
for the management of the estates which were under cultivation,
and the dis)
extinguished
so have been
commending
ilies of the «
have employ
estates, allow
associating h
dente exercis
under the au
ample stipen
hereditary di,
all the Gover
Dutch residen
be sown on e
gathered, wha
of the produc
(General and ¢
are, that, whil
it defrays all
war, and pays
national treas
what the disco
Bandony, .
early hour a ¢
us on the way
leisurely than
continue our u
tain-sides whie
elled on the pr
possible, more
disappear, but
taller and mo
mountain-trave
teams of horse’
h scabbard
aw of land-
nmediately
3, is paved
>, one story
The
vaterials are
ouse.
There is a
on a double
boo floor so
p. The fur-
t have been
Jur princely
at which he
1 feast with
After
ve musicians,
land.
ruments are
and monoto-
elody. Too
e retired to
rustling of a
as a story as
Government
t India Com-
stituted itself
. Using the
uintain acqui-
political rule.
olutely to the
pounded with
* vassal kings
r cultivation,
BANDONG. 828
and the disposal of their products. After this, they gradually
extinguished by purchase the rights of the native proprietors, and
so have been continually enlarging the royal domain. By way of
commending their rule to the natives, they have left to the fam-
ilies of the dispossessed rulers not only a titular rank, but they
have employed their chiefs in the manugement of their several
estates, allowing to each the official honor of regent, and actually
associating him with the Dutch vesidente or governor. The resi-
dente exercises the real power, but ostensibly in the name and
under the authority of the native prince.
The latter receives an
ample stipend, which enables him to maintain a show of his
hereditary dignity, and in consideration of which he entertains
ill the Government agents and their visitors at his palace. The
Dutch residente directs through the native regent what seed shall
be sown on every plantation, how and when the harvest shall be
gthered, what wages shall be paid to the cultivators, and disposes
of the products at prices fixed in every case, by the Governor-
General and Council of the Indies. The results of this system
are, that, while the people seem to be comfortable and contented,
it defrays all the expenses of local administration in peace and
war, and pays an annual revenue of five million dollars into the
national treasury at the Hague. Java, thus governed, remains
what the discoverers found it, “the garden of the world.”
Bandony. January 23d.—Our host at Sjiandjioer gave us at an
early hour a cup of the native coffee, with native sugar, and put
us on the way in good time this morning—first, to survey more
leisurely than yesterday the little provincial capital; and then to
continue our upward way to the centre of the island. The moun-
tain-sides which we climbed are more abrupt than those we trav-
elled on the previous day, while the teeming population seems, if
possible, more simple and gentle.
Many sorts of palm and cactus
disappear, but the heliotrope is richer than ever, the tree-ferns
taller and more beautiful.
We had the various experiences of
mountain-travel—travel with six horses, with oxen. and with mixed
teams of horses and oxen; sometimes we were pushed upward,
d24 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
sometimes held back with human hands alone; sometimes moved
by the working of the endless chain. We completed the journey
at five o’clock this afternoon.
This town is built on the same model as the one last visited,
I{ardly had we entered it before we encountered demonstrative
evidence that the native prince, Wiranarta Kalsoema Radhe Ade.
pathe, Regent of Bandong, is every inch a king. His despotic
authority is reflected in the despondent countenances and de.
meanor of his subjects. Within his dominion we were recognized
as his guests. No traveller on the road, 7hether young or old,
whether a man staggering under a heavy burden, or a woman with
a child in her arms, passed us without first receiving our permission,
no matter how slowly we might be moving, or how long we might
be stopping. All whom we met went down on their knees as
we approached, nor did they venture to leave that posture or
even lift their eyes from the ground until we had passed by.
This was a strange sight among a people who are more sen.
sitive than any other on points of personal dignity. Every official
or educated Javanese wears a sword, not so much to protect him-
self against the beasts of the jungle, as to use it in vindication
of wounded self-esteem. He is a duellist. So excitable is the na. |
tional sense of honor, that no words of insult or opprobrium are 9 ie Minas
ever heard among them without provoking instant chastisement, os me
Killing in the duel is not accounted murder.
adhe Adepathe, attended by a half-caste interpreter, stood
waiting to receive us before the palace-door, under a gilded um-
brella, of form and dimensions not unlike the “ sounding-board”
of old-fashioned New-England churches. The interpreter inquired
in F'rench whether the guests were Mr. Seward and family. Being
answered, he presented each of us to the regent, who, with a step
of conscious majesty, conducted Mr. Seward and the ladies individ
ually under the gorgeous umbrella, through the portico and into
the grand reception-hall of the palace. He seemed seventy years |
old, and was carelessly dressed. His countenance indicated great
shrewdness, his voice and manner were studiously deferential. He
displayed, however, a disagreeable impatience and even petulance.
imes moved
he journey
last visited,
monstrative
Radhe Ade.
Lis despotic
es and de.
eB recognized
bung or old,
woman with
r permission,
ng we might
pir Knees as
t posture or
1 passed by,
e more sen-
Every official
protect him-
n vindication
ble is the na-
probrium are
chastisemient,
‘preter, stood
a gilded un-
nding-board”
reter inquired
mily. Being
0, with a step
ladies individ:
rtico and into
seven ty years 4
ndicated great
ferential. Te
ven petulance.
ait ge
nif fs rs of ay
pay LPT
a eee
WITH HIS OFFICERS.
THE REGENT OF BANDONG,
THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
326
He devolved on the interpreter the duty of showing us our apart.
ments. We thought his expressions of politeness sinister, and con.
ceived at once a strong dislike for him. The overawed interpreter
blundered, and conducted each guest to an apartment designed {oy
the other. The regent, discovering the mistake, rose to the frenzy
of a “ Blue Beard.” He hobbled after us and corrected the blun-
der with vehement objurgations. We did not understand a word
of the reproof, but we all take notice that the unlucky Malay who
thus combined the offices of interpreter and chamberlain, in the
‘“‘yoyal”’ household, has not appeared since.
At seven o’clock we were summoned to the great hall, where the
regent received us. What a transformation! He was now attired
in royal Javanese costume, far more elaborate than that of the Pra.
wiro da Kedya. His countenance was serene, his manner gentle,
his discourse easy and courteous. He seemed twenty years younger,
He banished our dislike at once, by telling us, with a humorous
grimace, which none, but those who have actually known what the
twinges of the gout are, can affect, that he is a chronic sufferer from
that malady. When our host was seated in the centre of the room,
three male dwarfs, neatly dressed in native scarlet livery, with tur
baned heads and naked feet, timidly entered anJ crouched on the
floor behind their master. One held a sword ar.d folded umbrella,
another, a box filled with smoking-tobacco, pipes, and cigars; the
third, a brazier of charcoal. The three mutely and unceasingly
studied the varying expressions of the regent’s face. A Malay
served first schnapps, then port-wine and madeira. Dwarf num.
ber two now offered pipes, cigars, and cigarettes; thereupon the
regent ejaculated “ Appee,”’ when the brazier-bearing pigmy sprang
quickly forward. In obeying a command, each dwarf, as he ap-
proached master or guest, dropped on his knees and bowed his fore:
head to the floor, then assuming a natural position, made the ser-
vice required. When it was completed he performed a “ salam,”
and crept backward to his place behind the regent. Not only
these dwarfs, but each servant in the palace, the regent’s own son
and heir, a youth of twenty-one, and every. native admitted to the
presence, practises the same servile obeisance. The chief, on his
part, does n
or subject, |
looks away f
The pala
much more
evidences of
dred and six
At first it pu
come, but we
laid out in ge
support of h
deres ’’ (balle
nkeeping w
in support ot
crescent domi
draws heavily
After an
with a native
3 our apart:
or, and con-
interpreter
lesigned for
) the frenzy
2d the blun-
cand a word
Malay who
rlain, in the
1, where the
now attired
t of the Pra.
nner gentle,
ars younger,
a humorous
wn what the
sufferer from
of the room,
ry, with tur.
ched on the
ed umbrella,
L cigars; the
unceasingly
. A Malay
Dwarf num-
1ereupon the
pigmy sprang
rf, as he ap-
bwed his fore-
made the ser:
d a “ salam,”
. Not only
nt’s own sol
mitted to the
chief, on his
THE REGENT’S INCOME. 827
od
part, does not deign to incline his head toward the servant, child,
or subject, to whom he speaks, but, on the contrary, affectedly
looks away from or beyond him.
The palace, the grounds, and the town dependent on it, are
much more spacious than those at Sjiandjioer, and abound with
evidences of the regent’s wealth. His annual stipend is one hun-
dred and sixty thousand guilders, about eighty thousand dollars.
At first it puzzled us to know how a barbarian can use such an in-
come, but we were not long in finding a solution. In part, it is
laid out in gems and jewels for personal ostentation, in part for the
support of his family, in part for maintaining his corps of “ baya-
deres ’’ (ballet and singing girls), and a band of musicians, in part
in keeping up the most costly stud on the island, and the residue
in support of a large number of relations and dependants. The
crescent dominates everywhere in Java, and doubtless the mosque
draws heavily on the princely revenues.
After an elaborate dinner, the day has ended, as at Sjiandjioer,
with a native serenade.
A HOSTELRY IN JAVA,
CHAPTER IV.
MR. SEWARD AT BANDONG.
Excursion to the Cascade.—A Perilous Road.—The Water-Fall_—An Evening at the
Palace.—The Bayaderes.—Two Dwarfs.—A Chorus of Peasants.—The Little Prin.
cesses.—An Excursion to Tankoeban.—Peruvian Bark.—The Top of the Volcano,
—dAn Enchanting Scene.—The Javanese Prince.
Bandong, January 23d.—It rained all night. Bad as we knew
the roads must be, the regent nevertheless ordered out his immense
European carriage, with six horses, for an excursion to the “ Cas.
cade,” which is one of the wonders of the island. We were attended
by a detachment of heavy dragoons in Dutch unifornis, barefooted
postilions, and turbaned footmen. At the foot of every hill, and
at every slough, a crowd of peasants appeared, as if summoned by
previous command, to drag or push our unwilling wheels. It was
like a royal progress, such as Queen Elizabeth used to make in the
sixteenth century.
Twelve miles from the town, we found twenty-five saddie-
horses, a complement of sedan-chairs, and fifty peasants, awaiting
us. Taking so many of these animals, vehicles, and men, as we had
need of, we descended successive hills terraced with pale-green rice-
fields, and glossy dark coffee-groves. The mounted members of
the party agree that, in all their experience, they never had so per-
ilous an exercise; but the horses, as well as the bearers of the
chairs, were well trained and sure of foot. Although an animal
occasionally stumbled, and a chair-bearer lost his balance, we never-
theless acco
out serious
The riv
Batavia. 7
Tjikapoend
gorges abor
enty feet in
ferns festoo:
has a paral]
at Trenton,
but within 1
scene Was O
must seem
have come
equator. §
those to wh
uscade is ¥
tives has pe
water-sprite
never seen
Holland.
poendoeng.
dainty ferns
for him su
determines
This ev4
which his
reason of in
lofty hall, s¢
curious meq
the Prince
and Lola M
five native
the peasant
cians playec
this began,
Evening at the
The Little Prin.
of the Volcano,
_as we knew
his immense
to the “ Cas-
rere attended
8s, barefooted
rery hill, and
ummoned by
eels. It was
y make in the
-five saddle-
nts, awaiting
en, as we had
Je-green rice-
members of
oy had so per:
earers of the
yh an animal
nce, we never-
A WATER-FALL. 329
theless accomplished the journey down the slippery precipices with-
out serious accident.
The river Groote forms the canal which we have described at
Batavia. That river here bears the euphonious name of Tjoerock
Tjikapoendoeng. The torrents by which it is formed meet in the
gorges above this place, and it makes a perpendicular leap of sev-
enty feet into a dell, the sides of which are studded with lofty tree-
ferns festooned with orchids. The cascade in form and movement
has a parallel in some of the many leaps of the West Canada Creek
at Trenton, but its forest surroundings can have their like nowhere
but within the tropics. After the first pleasing impression of the
scene Was Over, we compared notes together, saying how absurd it
must seem that we, who live almost in sound of Niagara, should
have come this long distance to see a petty water-fall under the
equator. Soon, however, we were made to understand that, for
those to whom our cataract of thunder is unknown, this shining
cascade is worthy of all admiration. The imagination of the na-
tives has peopled the dell with gentle fairies of the air, and loving
water-sprites. The Dutch gentleman who accompanied us had
never seen any water-falls but the waste-weirs of the canals in
Holland. THe was awe-stricken in the presence of Tjoerock Tjika-
poendoeng. While to us the combination of sparkling water,
dainty ferns, and breathing flowers was simply beautiful, it was
for him sublime. So it is that accident or circumstance often
determines our tastes and sentiments.
This evening the regent conducted us to the private palace in
which his family reside. Apologizing for his wife’s absence by
reason of indisposition, he placed us in the centre of a spacious and
lofty hall, softly lighted with tinted globe lamps, and graced with a
curious medley of portraits of European celebrities—among them
the Prince of Wales, the Queen of the Netherlands, Jenny Lind,
and Lola Montez. We were the only guests. A band of twenty-
five native musicians was stationed on the porch. Hundreds of
the peasantry of Bandong crowded the guard in front. The musi-
cians played, in a low tone, a recitative accompaniment. Soon after
this began, four “ bayaderes,” one after the other, glided into the
3830 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETO,
They were
apparently eighteen years of age, and had that “ golden ” complex-
ion which in the East is the highest type of beauty. The regent
explained that the “ bayadere” amusement was derived from the
ancient Hindoos. The costume of the performers has the same
origin. It consists of a long, scant scarlet skirt, fastened above the
waist, and falling in folds quite over the bare feet. <A stiffened
band of scarlet and gold, ten inches wide, is drawn tightly about
the waist, fitting just under the shoulder-blades, leaving the arms
and shoulders entirely bare. The monture was a burnished helmet,
Wondering at this barbaric magnificence, Mr. Seward asked the
room, with a movement in harmony with the music.
DANCING-COSTUME.
regent whether the helmet was gilded. He quickly answered in
Javanese, that not only the helmet, but also the heavy girdle, the
bracelets, and anklets, were of solid gold, and added in English,
“ California.” Three ballets were performed ; it was not difficult
to understan:
sented a nuy
battle, with :
deep-toned a
sisted of slow
to the broken
deres ” were
two dwarfs, tl
and a counte
Malay figure :
The regent to
immoderately
who at home
General Tom
here with the
pressed our d
They were
? complex-
The regent
| from the
the same
above the
A stiffened
htly about
g the arms
ied helmet,
asked the
inswered in
y girdle, the
in English,
not difficult
A JAVANESE TOM THUMB. 331
to understand the spirit of each. The first, gay and joyous, repre-
sented a nuptial ceremony ; the second, energetic and vigorous, a
battle, with ambuscade, surprise, struggle, and victory; the third,
DANCING-GIRL.
deep-toned and measured, a funeral pageant. The dancing con-
sisted of slow and varied posturing and extravagant gesticulation,
to the broken and imperfect time of the wild music. The “ baya-
deres” were not the only performers of the evening. There were
two dwarfs, the eldest thirty years old, well proportioned and agile,
and a counterpart of Tom Thumb. In the other, the peculiar
Malay figure and features were exaggerated to absolute deformity.
The regent took especial delight in this Zusus nature, and laughed
immoderately at the little creature’s big head and bandy legs. We,
who at home are more pained than pleased by the exhibitions of
General Tom Thumb and his Liliputian wife, could not sympathize
here with the barbarian prince. It was with difficulty that we sup-
pressed our disgust when the pitiable dwarfs were put forward as
299 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETO,
VV
were executing.
in European courts three hundred years ago.
them.
door opened the way to a chorus ‘of peasants.
selves, but to the unbidden native spectators outside.
ee satin robes and jewels. He presented them to us
Java.
sive religious class in India.
| the family of Aaron among the Jews.
their persons were sacred.
Descended
agonies of the state of France, exclaimed, “O
exclaim, in view of this wicked imposture, what
court of every prince, and in all rich families.
harlequins in the historical pantomimes which the “ bayaderes”
Dwarfs here remain the same important personages they were
We ought. to
have mentioned that the Radhe Adepathe maintains seven of
The performance of the night had a very pleasing interlude,
While the artistes were resting in the intervals, the guard at the
They executed a
grotesque dance, which gave unbounded delight, not only to our.
In the midst
of this diversion, two children of the regent, girls of four and five,
and very small, came in with their attendants, dressed in queenly
with manifest
pride, and, although they trembled daring the ceremony, they per-
formed their little parts with all the formality of women.
We saw the “bayadere” in Japan, and have now seen her in
She is, as we understand, a universal character in the East.
Before the innovations of Buddha, the Bramins were an exclu-
They constituted a priesthood, like
from the gods,
By a cunning artifice, they reconciled
their followers to the consecration of women to their service,
These women were selected at an early age from the highest fami-
lies, reared and educated in the temples in the feminine arts and
accomplishments, as well as in mysteries of religion.
originally the “bayaderes.” If Madame Roland, in view of the
Such were
Liberty, what
crimes are committed in thy name!” how much more might we
erime has not
superstition perpetrated against the virtue of the human race!
While, as we are told, the institution among the Hindoos retains
its religious character, it has been copied without that character
throughout the East, whatever forms of religion may prevail. A
troupe of bayaderes is considered a necessary ornament in the
They are allowed
the education
erally, witho
January
and retinue
ban. What
llitherto we
ing and lying
a manly an
mounted a s}
Leaving ©
mountain, an
in five hour
which would
Javanese pra
heginning of
tree most aff
dred feet hig
calisaya, as t
world-wide ag
has been inti
are yet youn
The Residen
success. He
land, taken
The next pla
higher one y
supply of th
upon the mc
above the se;
tree-ferns, w
vines. We
any species ¢
us and preps
declivities,
We reach
yayaderes ”
they were
) ought to
3 seven of
* interlude,
uard at the
executed a
nly to our-
n the midst
ar and five,
in queenly
th manifest
y, they per-
L.
seen her in
in the East.
e an exclu.
sthood, like
m the gods,
y reconciled
ieir service.
‘ighest fami-
ine arts and
Such were
view of the
erty, what
‘e might we
me has not
uman race!
loos retains
at character
prevail. A
1ent in the
are allowed
THE VOLCANO OF TANKOEBAN, 833
the education and accomplishments which are denied the sex gen-
erally, without being held to the practice of virtue.
January 24th. —<An excursion to-day with the same cortége
and retinue as yesterday, to the smouldering volcano of Tankoe-
ban. What a transformation in the person of the young prince!
Hitherto we had seen him barefooted, and in a mean sarong, kneel-
ing and lying at his father’s feet like a slave. To-day he has donned
a manly and even princely costume. Booted and spurred, he
mounted a spirited horse, and led our expedition.
Leaving our carriages in a pretty village, at the foot of the
mountain, and taking saddle-horses and chairs, we made the ascent
in five hours, by an excavated zigzag path, the construction of
which would have been impossible for any engineer other than a
Javanese practised in the science of mountain-irrigation. At the
heginning of the ascent, we were at the elevation which the coffce-
tree most affects. The orchards are very luxuriant; rising a hun-
dred feet higher, we came to a plain covered with the Cinchona
calisayd, as the tree is calied, which furnishes the medicine known
world-wide as the Peruvian bark, in its various forms. The culture
has been introduced here, quite recently, from Bolivia. The trees
are yet young, and we are unable to determine their ultimate size.
The Resident informs us that the enterprise has already proved a
success. He has shipped more than seven tons of the bark to Hol-
land, taken from only the smaller branches or twigs of the trees.
The next plateau gave us a view of the sugar cultivation ; a still
higher one yields cabbages, potatoes, and other esculents for the
supply of the markets on the sea-shore. Native timber grows
upon the mountain-sides to the very summit, five thousand feet
above the sea. The forests are chiefly of teak; the undergrowth,
tree-ferns, with a great variety of flowering and fruit-bearing
vines. We recognize the raspberry, although not belonging to
any species cultivated with us. Troops of peasantry went before
us and prepared the way by cutting steps on the most rugged
declivities,
We reached, at last, a plain covered with fire-blasted trees; sul-
934 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
phurous fumes impregnated the atmosphere, and a clammy moist.
ure chilled us through and through. Following a circuitous path
through this desoJate scene, we reached the brink of the double cra.
ter, four or five miles in circumference and one thousand feet deep,
There have been two eruptions in such close proximity that only a
low ridge or promontory separates the craters. At the bottom of
either crater, there is a dark, yellow lake—or, rather, there is one
lake extending over the bottoms of both—divided by a natural
bridge. On the north shore or beach of this double lake, open
chasms send up, from fiery springs, through dense clouds of smoke,
a perpetual column of biazing sulphur. Another spring, somewhat
higher, seethes like a vast furnace, as it pours forth column after
column of mingled mud and gaseous fluid, with reverberating
sounds like thunder. The banks of solid rock are almost perpen-
dicular. Gathering clouds, driven by strong winds from the west-
ward, when they reach the precipice, roll in broad volumes down
its sides into the abyss; absorbing, then, the sulphurous fumes,
they rise on the opposite side of the crater, charged with their min-
eral burden, which they distribute, on their return to the upper air,
While contemplating these gigantic efforts of Nature, continued
through ages, to resume her lost tranquillity and silence, we were
shivering with cold and hunger. The plain surrounding the vol-
cano, and indeed the entire surface of the mountain-summit, though
covered with such vegetation as the mineral blasts allow to flourish,
is incrusted with volcanic ashes, like those which buried Pompeii
and other cities on the slopes of Vesuvius. In descending, we
peered constantly through the forest, to get sight of the tiger,
which is the terror of the island. Our guides, though armed
against him, informed us that the beast has become wary, and no
longer attacks men in bands.
Earth can have no scene more enchanting than the dark, tower:
ing mountains, shading off into verdant plains, which spread before
our eyes as we made our way back to the village we had left in
the morning. We overtook, as we thought, the very clouds which
we had seen rolling through the sulphurous crater, and, driving
through them, were drenched with rain. Then, again, when the
sun shone «
were pourin
A dinne
chief had ore
now preside
second dinn
We have
in his inter
understand |
vernacular,
IIe understs
what countr
who speaks .
replied, “ Hc
entertaining
ow young L
this lineage.
that we all dc
The Dutch s
Dut suspicion
loyalty and t
in this humi
ancestral sw4
his tribe ?
For oursc
island, after
is at last safe
so extreme a
as yet have 1
or of nations
my moist-
ruitous path
double cra-
d feet deep,
that only a
bottom of
here is one
yy a natural
lake, open
Is of smoke,
@, somewhat
column. after
everberating
nost perpen-
ym the west-
lumes down
irous fumes,
th their min-
he upper air,
e, continued
ce, We were
ding the vol-
nmit, though
w to flourish,
ried Pompeii
scending, we
of the tiger,
ough armed
wary, and no
» dark, tower:
spread betore
‘eo had left in
clouds which
and, driving
in, when the
DUTCH RULE IN JAVA. 335
sin shone out, we trod the silver lining of other clouds, which
were pouring their floods upon illuminated plains below.
A dinner, with good wine, and plenty of it, which our young
chief had ordered, awaited us at the foot of the mountain, and he
now presided right royally over the welcome entertainment. A
second dinner at the palace closed the day.
We have come to like our host vastly. He is genial and joyous
in his intervals of gout, and, by a certain sympathy, has come to
understand much of our English, and to make us comprehend his
vernacular, America is a subject of inexhaustible interest to him,
Ile understands it so well, that when Mr. Seward asked him to
what country he thought William Freeman, the colored servant,
who speaks English, and wears a European costume, belonged, he
replied, “ He was born in America, the son of a slave.’ Ie was
entertaining us to-day with accounts of his great ancestry, when
our young Dutch companion asked him what evidence he had of
this lineage. Ile answered, with spirit, “ What evidence have we
that we all descended from Adam and Eve in the garden of Eden ?”
The Dutch seem constantly on the watch for treachery on his part.
But suspicion is the punishment of usurpatien. It apprehends dis-
loyalty and treachery on every side. Would it be treason, indeed,
inthis humiliated and pensioned wearer of twelve diamond-hilted
ancestral swords, to strike with them a blow for the lost sceptre of
his tribe ?
For ourselves, we cannot but think that the Dutch rule in this
island, after two hundred years of trial, with their successive wars,
is at last safely established. It can only be shaken now by tyranny
so extreme and violent as to arouse to resistance a simple race who
as yet have never acquired the first idea either of personal freedom
or of national independence.
CITAPTER V.
AT BATAVIA AGAIN.—THE MALAYS,
Farewell to Bandong.—A Tropical Breakfast.—A Breakfast in the Botanical Gardens,—
A Prineely Native Artist.—Dutch Colonization.—Character of the Malay Race —
Chinese Immigration.
Batavia, January 25th.—We bade farewell to the magnificent
chief of Bandong, at sunrise yesterday, and we breakfasted with hin
at Sjiandjioer, enjoying in both cases the honors of music and the
golden umbrella. We bathed and slept last night in the rose-gar.
dens of Sindanlaya. At noon to-day, we reéntered the palace of
Buitenzorg, which name, we now Icarn, was borrowed from the
palace of Frederick the Great at Potsdam—Sans-souci.
A pretty illustration of tropical lite greeted us here. The gov.
ernor-general was absent; the ladies were just assembled at break:
fast in the coolest of marble halls, dressed in the degagée habit
Which the Europeans have adopted from the natives here: hair fall.
ing naturally over the shoulders, the white “ short-gown” of ow
grandmothers, made fanciful with ruffles and bright buttons; a gay-
colored muslin skirt (savong), not fastened by a belt, but sottly fold
ed around the figure; naked feet thrust into gold-ermbroidere|
slippers. After sharing their breakfast with us, they loaded ow
carriages With roses and passion-flowers, and lotuses, each flower in
itself'a bouquet. It was with sincere and unaffected regret that we
parted with our newly-made friends, and so we are here once mor
at our Batay
kindest of ho
January 2
tle ladies of iF
the Botanieal
of a larger anc
in Our experig
graceful gira lh
and splendid i
nical Gardens.—
| Malay Race—
magnificent
ed with him
usic and the
the rose-gar-
he palace of
ed from the
» The gov:
led at break:
egagee \ralnt
re: hair fall:
ywwn”? of our
fons; a gay:
it softly fold
embroidered
londed om
ach flower i
reret that we
re Once Mort
A SOCIAL BREAKFAST. 837
at our Batavia home, after a week in the country, filled with the
kindest of hospitalities and most valuable of instructions.
BATIL AT SINDANLAYA,
January 26th.—The Resident of the province of Batavia, with
the ladies of his family, gave us, this morning, a social breakfast in
the Botanical Gardens, under arching banyan-trees, in the presence
of alarger and gayer assembly than ever before has graced a teast
in our experience. These spectators were inquisitive monkeys,
graceful giraffes, noble lions, magnificent tigers, loquacious parrots,
ind splendid peacocks, not to speak of birds-of-paradise. In short,
THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
338
the Zoological Museum was the scene of our festivity. When the
repast was over, we visited the museum, which is very rich jy
Malay antiquities and curiosities, chiefly war and official costumes,
ornaments, and weapons, from all parts of the Eastern Archipelago,
The Hall of the Council of the Indies, in the government pal.
ace, is a spacious one, and adorned appropriately with a full collec.
tion of life-size portraits of the successive governors-general.
Java is proud of the native prince Rahden Saleh, who in Europe
acquired great proficiency in the arts of painting and architecture,
His most eelebrated artistic achievements are, the Botanical Gap.
dens, in which we breakfasted ; a fine portrait of the governor-gen.
eral (Myer) ; and his own Italian villa, in the suburbs of Batavia.
Mr. Pell gathered at his table, in the evening, a pleasant party
of Americans. This island is visited more by Americans than by
any other class of travellers.
Batavia-Roads, Steamer Singapore, January 26th, Evening.—
To avoid an early and precipitate embarkation to-morrow, we pro-
cured a steam-tender, and came on board a packet still smaller than
the Koningin der Nederlanden.
What we have seen in Java, and learned there of oiner islands,
justifies us in pronouncing the Dutch colonization in the East
Indies a great and beneficent success. Less than twenty thov-
sand Dutch colonists have established over a native population
of seventeen millions the sway cf the mother-country, which num.
bers only four millions. Notwithstanding occasional insurrections,
that sway may be regarded as firmly established. It oug.t to
enhance our admiration of the enterprise, that, during two hun-
dred years of its history, the Netherlands had to overcome not
alone the natives of the islands, but also to maintain an almost
constant conflict with European competitors in these distant seas
—Portugal, Spain, France, and Great Britain. Its administra.
tion is severely criticised in British cireles, on the ground of its
wearing too prominently the features of narrow mercantile monop-
oly. Although these features must be admitted to be tyrannical, it
cannot be denied, on the other hand, that the Dutch Government
has practised
Archipelago
the United S
exterminated
slavery on t
The Dutch d
The island he
and has also
as we can p<
content, and
overlooked tl
cise of politic
religions, enc
so generally 1
his own lang
admitted that
sonal liberty
the Malays; :
civilization of
dence, emu
ress of civilizs
The Mala
Tl
coverers on
branches,
Java, were ¢¢
merged fron
int Hectual!y
erers alleged
excelled all
gruous does f
an instinet ra
the same Eu
treacherous, W
tractable peo]
Bramins of I
vast proporti
When the
ry Yich in
costumes,
rchipelago,
nment pal-
full collec.
ral.
in Europe
chitecture,
anical Gar-
yernor-gen-
Batavia.
asant party
ns than by
Evening.—
yW, We pro-
maller than
ner islands,
n the East
venty thou-
population
vhich num-
surrections,
t oug it to
lr two hun-
ercome not
an almost
listant seas
adininistra-
‘ound of its
tile monop-
yrannical, it
yovernment
THE MALAY RACE.
has practised far less severity and cruelty toward the natives of the
Archipelago than Spain, and Great Britain, and their successors
the United States, have practised in America.
Holland has neither
exterminated native populations in the Archipelago, nor imposed
slavery on them, nor introduced African slavery among them.
The Dutch development of the resources of Java has been effective.
The island has an agriculture surpassing that of any other country,
and has also a valuable and increasing foreign commerce.
So tar
as we can perceive, it is free alike from political and social dis-
content, and certainly it is free from pauperism.
Nor is it to be
overlooked that the Malays have been raised to the partial exer-
cise of political functions.
The government, while it tolerates all
religions, encourages missionary instruction, and maintains schools
so generally that a Javanese who is unable to read and write in
his own language is exceptional.
At the same time it must be
admitted that no such vivifying social sentiments as those of per-
sonal liberty and national independence have been conceived by
the Malays; and, while we can no longer doubt that the ultimate
civilization of the whole human race is within the design of Provi-
dence, e must reconcile ourselves to laws which render the prog-
ress of civilization slow, and seemingly uncertain.
The Malay race is not homogeneous, it has many distinct
branches.
The branches which were found by the European dis-
coverers on the peninsula, and on the islands of Sumatra and
Java, were compact and organized states, which had long before
emerged from the tribal condition.
int Hlectually as well as physically feeble.
erers alleged that they could not count ten.
excelled all mankind—this was the art of irrigation.
Nevertheless, the Malays are
The European discov-
But in one art they
So incon-
gruous does this skill seem to be, that we might almost deem it
an instinct rather than an acquirement of the Malays.
Although
the same European explorers describe the Malays as subtle and
treacherous, we are obliged to conclude that they are a docile and
tractable people.
They received their earliest religion from the
Bramins of India, as is proved by the ruins of Hindoo temples of
vast proportions and great magnificence.
They exchanged that re-
340 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
ligion, with entire docility, for the faith of the crescent, which was
brought to them from Arabia by the apostles of Mohammed. There
was one occasion, indeed, in their history when they proved intrac.
table and hostile. At the time of the arrival of the Europeans, not
only the Malayan Peninsula, but Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, were
found the field of active Chinese colonization. The European his.
torians represent that the natives sought to exterminate the Chinese
immigrants here, on exactly the same grounds that Chinese immi-
gration is opposed in the United States, namely, a fear that it
would establish a system of heathen barbarism. In this native re.
sistance to Chinese colonization, the European adventurers con.
curred and coéperated for a long time. But it has, at last, happily
ceased. The Dutch East India Government, as well as the British
Government at Singapore, are now effectively engaged in promot.
ing that immigration in their respective colonies.
JAVANESE,
An Uncomfortab
Port of Pe
World.—Art
Hindoo Crey
Steame. &
skilfully com
and passage,
him a lesson q
on the 25th,
gapore on Fg
vessel of the
this change o
The cabin is
perpendicnla
the night we
other nights,
our mattresse
new lodging
passengers, o
were hauled
miles at sea,
ship gave her
which was
ied. There
yved intrac-
opeans, not
orneo, were
iropean his.
the Chinese
inese immi-
fear that it
is native re.
‘turers con-
ast, happily
the British
in promot:
CHAPTER VI.
FROM BATAVIA TO MADRAS.
An Uncomfortable Steamer.—An Accident.—At Singapore.—British Hospitality —The
Port of Penang.—A Loyal Englishman.—Bay of Bengal.—Half-Way Round the
World.—Arrival at Ceylon.—Point de Galle—A Short Visit to the Shore—A
Hindoo Crew.—O% Pondicherry.
Steame.’ Singapore, January 31st.—If one wishes to learn how
skilfully common-carriers, demanding the highest rates for freight
and passage, can inflict the greatest discomfort, we recommend to
him a lesson on the Singapore. She was appointed to leave Batavia
onthe 25th, while the British steamer to Ceylon was to leave Sin-
gapore on February 1st. But the Singapore, which is the slowest
vessel of the line, did not sail until the 27th. Notwithstanding
this change of time, we hoped for two days of rest at Singapore,
The cabin is a dove-cote—the holes are reached from the deck by a
perpendicular ladder. We had the whole dove-cote to ourselves
the night we lay in the roads at Batavia. The next night, and all
other nights, we escaped from its stifling imprisonment by having
our mattresses spread on the deck and protected by awnings. Our
new lodging was made intolerably noisy by the incessant tramp of
passengers, ofhicers, seamen, and servants. A dozen milch-cows
were hauled by their horns on deck, before we left port. Tifty
miles at sea, one of them mutinied, and leaped overboard ; the
ship gave her stern-chase, bow-chase, and cross-chase, for five hours 3
23
842 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
od
it was an unequal chase, but steam-power, baffled so long, prevailed
at last.
During the night, when we were crossing the mouth of the
straits of Sunda, a northwest monsoon put the steamer to ancther
The condenser gave way at midnight, and the vessel he.
We, who were wakeful and alarmed, saw the officers
trial.
came a log.
hurrying backward and forward, whispering rather than proclaim.
ing their commands. We overheard them discoursing how to make
up the ship’s deficiency in life-boats in case she should be driven
on th» eich, It was a new experience to go down, in that tem.
pestuo: ig: i. into the seething ship’s hold, and take our money
from our trunks ...d prepare for the apprehended disaster. What
might not be our fate, if, escaping from the perils of the sca, we
should reach the savage shore of Sumatra? Should we encounter
there serpents, wild-beasts, cannibals? The storm, however, re.
lented a little; after working the pumps, and hammering on the
condenser, the engineer repaired the broken machinery, and the
vessel resumed her course.
We were demoralized by travel in this intemperate climate,
The coarse food was not at all to our liking; we fell back on the
fruits. The first day, lemons, limes, even bottled lemonade, were
exhausted; the next day, the oranges, bananas, and pineapples;
the third day, and afterward, we had stale bread and bad cotiee,
We have arrived here at midnight, on the fifth day of our voyage.
No signal has been given of the steamer, and we therefore sleep
on board, although we are to embark on the Behar for Ceylon, to-
morrow.
Steamer Behar, Straits of Malacca, February 1st.—The unin-
structed telegraph, at dawn, signalled the Singapore as a Dutch
Nobody expected Mr. Seward in a belligerent char-
Governor Ord and Cons!
man-of-war,
acter, especially under a Dutch flag.
Jewell, however, discovered the mistake, and took us ashore atter
long delay. The true English hospitality of Sir George and Lady
Ord, at Government House, soon banished the remembrance of the
perils and privations of our recent voyage.
itis now in a c
Strength
envy. The
avery few y
he went out ;
unprotected
party to the
o'clock, they
Governor Sey
Seward, ** let
nation which
its claim to it
Penang, 4
tomary chann
and Japan, so
sels of like des
Hope. The -
secured the an
straits are fou
hither in forty
our left, and tl
The straits hey
of the largest
rises abruptly
aspect to the hi
The port of
ulation of four
the island of
one else in thi
idle. He base
Chinese immig
came off here
the others wer¢
We have ir
which the Beh:
¥, prevailed
uth of the
eto ancther
> vessel he.
the officers
n proclaim.
iow to make
id be driven
in that tem-
» our money
ster. What
the sea, we
ve encounter
however, re-
ering on the
ery, and the
rate climate.
back on the
nonade, were
1 pineapples;
1 bad cotiee.
f our voyage.
ierefore sleep
or Ceylon, to-
—The unin-
» as a Dutch
ligerent chat-
d and Consul
hs ashore atter
rge and Lady
mbrance of the
THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. 343
Strength commands respect, and success, at last, overpowers
envy. The same European populace of Singapore, which, only
avery few years ago, cheered the American rebel Semmes, when
he went out and came in there from his traitorous depredations on
unprotected national commerce, now followed our little American
party to the wharf, and, as the Behar cast off her lines at four
o'clock, they shouted, with evident good-will: “ Three cheers for
Governor Seward, three cheers for the ladies!” ‘ Well,” said Mr.
Seward, “let it be so; it is not an unwholesome instruction that the
nation which would enjoy the respect of other nations must retain
its claim to it by union and courage.”
Penang, February 3d.—As the straits of Sunda are he cus-
tomary channel of vessels which round Cape Horn for Java, ( ina,
and Japan, so the straits of Malacca are the proper passu;'e for ves-
sels of like destination, which come by the way of the Cape of Good
Hope. The British Government has, with its usual sagacity,
secured the ancient town of Malacca on the Malay Pe: nsula. The
straits are four hundred miles long. We have made the passuge
hither in forty-two hours, seeing often the high hills of Sumatra on
our left, and the flat Malay Peninsula always in view on our right.
The straits here are seven miles wide, and deep enough for vessels
of the largest size.
The mountainous, wooded island of Penang
rises abruptly out of the sea, and lesser islands lend a picturesque
aspect to the harbor.
The port of Penang, sometimes called Georgetown, with a pop-
uation of four thousand, may, some time ago, have flourished, but
itis now in a condition of neglect and decline.
the island of Penang is forty thousand.
The population of
Governor Ord, like every
one else in this region, represents the Malays as improvident and
idle. He bases his hope of the prosperity of the settlement upon
Chinese immigration. Among the twenty or thirty boats, which
came off here for passengers and freight, only one was Malay ; all
the others were Chinese built, and manned by Chinese.
We have improved, as best we could, the six hours’ stay with
which the Behar has indulged us here. In carriages, with Hindoo
344 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETO.
drivers, we made great speed, over a smooth road, to sec a cascade
on the West Mountain, two thousand fect above the sea. The
people whom we passed, on the road-side, were often standing or
reclining in careless and picturesque attitudes, under the cocoa-nut
and arika palms. They seem effeminate and languid. Manitestly,
however, they bestow careful attention on their costumes, grace.
fully made up of pure white or bright-colored turbans, flowing
sashes, and gay sarongs.
There is an approximation to similarity in the dwellings of the
Malays and Chinese here, while the foreign bungalows exhibit x
sad corruption of European architecture, without gain from the
Oriental. On all sides, and at every turn, there are swinging
sion-boards, which announce “ Licensed to sell ardent spirits.” It
alcohol is not admitted to be a civilizer, it cannot be denied that
it is a leveller.
After making a considerable descent, we reached a brawling
torrent. We followed its bank under the shade of native forests,
A small plain near the foot of the cascade furnishes the site for,
littie, rude, adobe Hindoo temple; it has a rustic veranda, sup.
Here we were welcomed by Bramins,
ported by palm-saplings.
who were assiduously engaged in plaiting bamboo curtains, and
weaving garlands of mountain-flowers, for a festival to-morrov,
We rested awhile under this simple but beautiful upholstery, and
then foraged the adjoining woods for nutmegs and cloves. As.
cending from this plain two or three hundred feet, over rougl
stone steps, we came to the basin into which the torrent plunges
for a hundred feet or more, breaking into sparkling jets as it
dashes against glistening granite rocks. Even we, prosaic as we
are, could easily fancy that the caverns in these romantic rocks are
inhabited by naiads and genii, such as are supposed to hold com:
mune with the imaginative disciples of the oldest and most myste
rious of the religions of the East.
Sitting on benches hewn from the rock, and refreshing ourseives
with cool water drawn from the basin, we looked off upon the
ocean, a dozen miles distant, calm and quiet, through a vista of tree:
ferns, rooted high above the tops of the palms and spice-trees which
commotion 4
the water—y
have not ha
strong, W
be broken a
grow on th
left our ea
broiled chic
ed no * bus
it superfluo
the table o
was drawn,
Ilighness t
command,”
tise mercha:
On com
shore rambl
sul.
Sfeamer
and roadste
have given t
Now at1
Mr. Seward
tain, I think
which will
answered,
the line you
Little do
that we are {
have a faint
circumstane
The caln
throwing tl
februan
sec a cascade
ie sea, The
standing or
the cocoa-nut
Manitestly,
tumes, grace.
pans, flowing
ellings of the
ows exhibit a
‘ain from the
are swinging
t spirits.” If
ee denied that
od a brawling
native forests,
s the site fora
veranda, sup-
1 by Bramins,
y curtains, and
ral to-morrow,
ipholstery, and
d cloves. As
et, over rough
orrent, plunges
ling jets as it
, prosaic as we
nantic rocks are
1d to hold com:
nd most myste §
eshing ourseives
off upon the
h a vista of tree:
spice-trees which
HALF-WAY ROUND THE WORLD. 845
grow on the plain below. Descending to the plain where we had
left our carriages, we were served, at a rustic inn, with a lunch of
proiled chickens and salad, and with wine from Xeres, which need-
ed no “bush.” The proprietor, a loyal Englishman, did not think
it superfluous to tell us that the fountain in which we had bathed,
the table on which we dined, and the cask from which the wine
was drawn, had all been honored with the patronage of his Royal
llighness the Duke of Edinburgh. How long will ‘her Majesty’s
command,” and “his Royal Highness’s protection,” serve to adver-
tise merchandise and inns in the East Indies ?
On coming on board, we learned with regret that our hurried
shore ramble had deprived us of a visit from the United States con-
sul.
Steamer Behar, Bay of Bengal, February 4th.—Penang city
and roadstead passed from our sight with the setting sun. We
have given the Southern Islands a wide berth.
Now at noon, while the captain is taking his daily observations,
Mr. Seward, pencil in hand, is making up his reckoning. “ Cap-
tain, 1 think we must be near the 98th meridian of east longitude,
which will be half my voyage around the world.” The captain
answered, “ That light-ship, sir, which you see on our right, marks
the line you are inquiring for.”
Little do our friends at home, in their midnight slumber, dream
that we are sitting, wide awake, directly over their heads. But we
have a faint idea that this reflection has been made under similar
circumstances before.
The calm sea-surface is broken by a vast shoal of fish, violently
throwing themselves into the air. ‘ What has caused this great
commotion ?”” It is those two black-headed sharks peering over
the water—vanguard, doubtless, of a ferocious army.
February 7th.—The Indian Ocean justifies its renown. We
have not had a wave too high, a cloud too dark, or a breeze too
strong. We are actually regretting that this dreamy voyage must
be broken at Ceylon to-morrow. A mattress on the deck of a Pen-
346 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETC.
insular and Oriental steamer, on this ocean in February, is a luxury
of rest. The glaring, blazing sun has scarcely set, before the moon
and stars come out in full brilliancy. The sparkling Southern
Cross traverses a short journey across the southern horizon, visibly
changing its position every hour, and the tranquil night, without
twilight, breaks suddenly into another cloudless and joyous day,
Off Point de Galle, February 8th.—A letter from Lord Napier
comes on board, protesting against our lingering at Ceylon, so as
to fall into India in the hot season. We are obliged to be content,
therefore, with an outside view of that famous island. We have
been running nearly all day along its beautiful coast. A yellow
beach, with dazzling breakers, fringes the forest verdure of the
island. That verdure extends to a height of five thousand feet,
when it gives place to a blue rocky ridge, from which rises Adam's
Peak, nine thousand feet, and Haycock Hill, fourteen thousand,
The fishing-craft here is as ingenious as its construction is peculiar,
Being a canoe, scooped out of the trunk of a tree, it is too narrow
for safety. It is, therefore, provided with a float attached to out.
riggers at the right side. Fleets of these boats are moving around
us, but, whatever pearls the fishermen may have taken from these
rich waters, are too minute for our vision. So, also, if elephants
are as numerous on the shores as they are represented to be, it
must be remembered that an impenetrable jungle intervenes to
conceal them from our sight.
Steamship Columbia, 10 v.m., February 8th.—While we were
writing our latest notes, a summons came for our transshipment
from the Behar to this steamer.
Point de Galle, or, as it is otherwise called, Galle, although
described in some of the geographies as having a good harbor, has
just no harbor at all. It has neither bay nor roadstead, but a piti-
ful cove, into which the sea forces its way between two short ledges
of rock projecting from the shore. These ledges, which are scarcely
a quarter of a mile apart, seem to break the surf, and thus in fair
weather afford something like a tranquil anchorage. This anchor.
age, howeve
and every o
control of it
passenger, ¢
that one of
in which he
This afte
Suez, the C
With these «
before we le
loss of a boo
We asked y
answered ths
is worse. N
shore is ten |
Here and th
behind the ¢
tian church ¢
conspicuous,
and barracks
the Portugu
tered by imn
Ten o'elo
had entertait
The captain
in his launel
through the
val gateway.
pal street.
ern hotel, m
its wonders,
ebony elepha
galese lace, nd
Having so sod
shipping, dod
is a luxury
‘e the moon
y Southern
izZ0N, Visibly
rht, without
rous day,
ord Napier
Yeylon, so as
» be content,
. We have
. yellow
‘dure of the
ousand teet,
rises Adam's
n thousand.
n is peculiar,
8 too narrow
ched to out-
ving around
n from these
, if elephants
ted to be, it
ntervenes to
hile we were
ransshipment
ule, although
d harbor, has
id, but a piti
short ledges
h are scarcely
d thus in fair
This anchor:
A FEW MINUTES IN CEYLON,
347
age, however, can accommodate only five or six sea-going vessels,
and every one of this number is exposed to great danger if it loses
control of its ground-tackle, from hidden coral-rocks, Our fellow-
passenger, Colonel Garden, of the British Army of India, tells us
that one of these rocks wrecked and broke into pieces the steamer
in which he was entering the harbor two years ago.
This afternoon three steamers met here—the Behar bound for
Suez, the Columbia for Madras, and a third for the Archipelago.
With these came also a Portuguese man-of-war. The Behar, just
before we left here, collided with a large iron ship, inflicting the
loss of a boom, and suffering the loss of a life-boat and stanchions,
We asked whether this is the best of the island ports, and were
answered that Columbo, the only one available to the present trade,
is worse. Nevertheless, the cove is beautiful to look upon. The
shore is ten or twelve fect above the sea, and shaded with palms.
Here and there a fanciful bungalow may be seen peeping from
behind the dense groves. On a gentle elevation is a pretty Chris-
tian church and spire, confronting a mosque and minarets not less
conspicuous. At the water’s edge is a line of white fortifications
and barracks, with a lofty gateway leading to the town, built by
the Portuguese. These buildings, substantial and old, are shel-
tered by immense trees, of what sort we are unable to learn.
Ten oclock.—Until the moment of writing the last notes, we
had entertained no hope of treading the soil of fragrant Ceylon.
The captain of the Columbia tendered us his service to go ashore
in his launch. We made our way, not without great difficulty,
through the crowded shipping to the stone steps under the medie-
val gateway. Ten minutes sufficed us to walk through the princi-
pal street. We rested under the veranda of a comfortable, mod-
em hotel, meking a hundred inquiries concerning the island and
its wonders, continually interrupted by tempting offers of carved
ebony elephants, coffee-wood sticks, cinnamon paper-cutters, Cin-
galese lace, not to speak of diamonds, pearls, rubies, and sapphires.
Having so soon “ done” the town and island, we rowed among the
shipping, dodging a rudder here, a propeller there, and native raft-
348 THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO, ETO.
boats on every side, until a flash from the ship’s gun summoned all
on board. The most inspiring incident of this day’s expericnee
was the last. The moon had not risen, and the night was dark
and cloudy when our propeller was put in motion. <A blue light
on the Colum! ia’s bow signalled that her movement was to begin,
Instantly a brilliant torch, fed by impish natives, blazed on cach
one of the hundred beacons which rose on the sharp ledges of' the
charnel, and soon we were moving through a maze of bonfires to
the open sea, At this moment, a full moon, breaking through the
clouds, poured her silver light over land and sea, adding a new
and inconceivable brilliancy to the scene.
Bay of Bengal, February 9th.—The route to Madras requires
that we retrace to the end of the island the course by which we
reached Point de Galle. We are now steering northward, along
the eastern coast of Ceylon,
The island constitutes a distinct British province, and its gov-
ernment is under the direct supervision of the Secretary of Siate
tor India. Its people, all Cingaiese, are doubtless of Hindoo
extraction. The prevailing religion, that of Buddha, we are in-
elined to think, flourishes more vigorously there than on the con-
tinent. British and American missionaries labor harmoniously
together, and report that they have one pupil in their schools, tor
every ninety of the native population.
We have at last left the Chinese, as well as the American and
European seamen, behind us. All our crew are Hindoos. Except
ourselves, all the passengers are British. They are all civil or mili-
tary officers of the Government. Within the memories of many of
them, journeys in India were made with elephant-trains, After
this came the Peninsular and Oriental steamers, and now railways.
Business-men go directly by rail from Bombay to Caleutta, while
families prefer the slower and easier journey by sea around the
peninsula, touching at Ceylon. The steamers also transport the
troops and stores for the Indian army.
We already feel that the continental empire is the one absorb-
ing British interest, to which Ceylon and the Straits Settlement are
subordinat
questions (
with us the
Off Po
French in ¢
We heard }
peace mad
only other
Seward doc
may withdr
fur even Ww
involve not
dream whic
tomb at the
Pondich
thousand pc
Arcot, and
British hav
wars with |
lies neverth
ammoned all
S expericnce
ht was dark
A blue light
vas to begin,
zed on each
ledges of the
yf bontires to
through the
dding a new
dras requires
by which we
hward, along
, and its gov-
etary of Siate
ss of Hindoo
a, we are in-
1 on the con-
harmoniously
bir schools, for
merican and
loos. Except
1 civil or mili-
es of many of
rains, After
now railways.
‘aleutta, while
a around the
transport. the
1e one absorb-
Settlement are
PONDICHERRY.
349
subordinate. What we hear discussed are the political and social
questions of the capital, Calcutta. Our fellow-passengers condole
with us that our arrival will be too late for the court season.
Off Pondicherry.-—It will be remembered that we found the
French in Cochin China fortifying Saigon against German invasion.
We heard yesterday at Point de Galle that one of the conditions of
peace made by King William is the surrender of Pondicherry, the
only other remaining relic of French conquest in the East. Mr.
Seward does not believe the report. While he thinks that France
may withdraw before long from the East, he thinks it quite too late
for even united Germany to come here as a civilizer. It would
involve nothing else than an attempt at universal empire, that
dream which began with Alexander, and which lics buried in the
tomb at the L/dtel des Invalides.
Pondicherry, without a harbor, is a dismantled city of forty
thousand people, lying within the limits of the province of South
Arcot, and is distant only eighty-seven miles trom Madras. The
British have heretofore seized it four times, in as many suecessive
wars with France, and, although they have as often restored it, it
lies nevertheless completely at their mercy.
PART IV.
BRITISH INDIA.
Madras from t
School. —I
Machinery
—The Leg
Madras
around the
left San Fr
demonstrat
by a flank 1
We first
blue haze.
pein aspec
coast. It
Yeddo, lars
the city.
appearance
ing from t]
Captain
to the {cov
Napier, Ge
Rhuwenanar
i rOp an,
unworthy «
large as Fy
CHAPTER I.
MADRAS.
Madras from the Sea.—Governor Napicr.—The Government House.—A Hindoo Girls’
School.—Bishop Heber.—British Dominion in India,.—Rear-Admiral Cockburn.—
Machinery of Government.—A Meeting of the Executive Council.—Lord Cornwallis.
—The Legislative Council.—Hindoo Music.
Madras, February 11th. — This voyage of ours, westward
around the world, subjects us to singular impressions. Since we
left San Francisco, we have seen at every stage a more imposing
demonstration of European power. Thus, we are reaching Europe
by a flank movement.
We first saw Madras from the sea, at a long distance, through a
blue haze. It seemed commanding and beautiful, a city of Euro-
pean aspect, stretching eight or ten miles along the Coromandel
coast. It contains five hundred thousand people. Ilere, as at
Yeddo, large gardens intervene between the different districts of
the city. On coming near, its lofty buildings present a dingy
appearance, an indication, we think, of commercial decline, result-
ing from the opening of the railway from Bombay to Calcutta.
Captain Napier took we off the steamer, and brought us directly
tothe {-overnment Ilouse, the official residence of Francis, Lord
Napier, Governor of the Presidency of Madras, It is a palace half
European, half Oriental, with its proportions and appointments not
unworthy of a magistrate whe presides over a country which is as
large as France, and contains almost as many million inhabitants.
304 BRITISH INDIA.
During Lord Napier’s residence, as minister of Great Britain in
the United States, a close friendship grew up between him and Mr,
Seward, and between their families. That friendship has continued,
through political and domestic vicissitudes. We thérefore expected
here, as we desired, not so much a distinguished reception, as a sin-
cere welcome, with much-needed rest. These we are having, but
not without such official demonstrations as we have met elsewhere,
The appointments of Government House are magnificent. We
notice a major-general’s staff, with a guard of horse and foot,
blazing in scarlet and gold; civil secretaries, we know not how
many; servants counted by the score, at the head of whom are
seven native butlers, and at the foot a hundred wadllahs (coolies),
who do nothing but keep the punhahs (swinging fans) in motion,
in every part of the house, by day and by night. In the stables,
two hundred horses; and here we may say, that they have six races
of the animal in India: the “ Waler” from Australia, the “ Cape”
from Good Hope, the “ Arabian,” the “ Persian,” and the country.
bred horse, a cross between the * Arabian” and “ Waler,” and a
small horse from Burmah, which we like better than any pony we
have seen in Asia.
Madras, february Wth—We accompanied Lady Napier to-
day, at three o’clock, to an examination of a Hindoo girls’-school,
Prizes were distributed to one hundred pupils, all under twelve
years. ‘his is the age of marriage in India. Jealous and ambi-
tious parents anticipate it, by marrying their daughters to their
appointed husbands at every stage of infancy and childhood. We
were surprised, although we ought not to have been so, in seeing
the children in this school quite black. They have, however,
iair and regular features. They are slender in form and
vo in stature, with extremely delicate hands and feet.
have u sad, pensive manner, entirely free from the content-
ment and avandon which are noticeable among the colored children
of the United States. Though of many different castes, all were
dressed in either bright-colored muslins or gauzes interwoven with
gold. Their fine black hair, their ears, their noses, their necks,
t Britain in
iim and Mr,
s continued,
re expected
On, 8 2 sin-
having, but
| elsewhere,
ficent. We
e and foot,
w not how
f whom are
“hs (coolies),
) in motion,
the stables,
Ve SIX races
the “Cape”
the country-
aler,” and a
ny pony we
Napier to-
wirls’-school,
nder twelve
s and ambi-
ers to their
lhood. We
30, in seeing
e, however,
in form and
ls and feet.
the content-
red children
tes, all were
‘woven with
their necks,
MADRAS.
GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
356 BRITISH INDIA,
their arms, their wrists, their ankles, and their toes, were loaded
with ornaments of silver, gold, pearls, and precious stones. <A yal.
uation made at our request, of a set of ornaments worn by a child
of six years, gave the figure of three hundred pounds sterling!
The prettiest costume of all was worn by a daughter of the con-
verted Hindoo matron of the institution—a green satin vest, low
at the neck, small short sleeves trimmed with gold lace; white
skirt over which was wound a long, full, rose-colored scarf; the
necklace, ear-rings, and nose-rings, of gold coins. From the osten-
tatious display of jewels, we inferred that the children had rich
But we soon learned that these ornaments constitute the
parents.
Banks, stocks, and other
entire fortune and estate of the wearer.
institutions for the investment of capital, are little known or under.
stood by the IHindoos,
The children answered, some in the Tamil dialect, others iy
the Telugu, others in the Hindostanee, Bible questions of history
and geography about as well as our own Sunday-school children oi
They were also examined in the most simple pro-
A Tamil lyric was prettily sung by one class,
The native air,
the same age.
cesses of arithmetic.
Its plaintive strain recalled our negro melodies.
to which Tamil verses in honor of Lady Napier were sung by the
whole school, unmistakably breathed the refrain of “ Dearest Mae.”
Five thousand children are edu
A Telugu lyric was less musical.
Very few, however, be-
cated in schools of this sort in Madras.
come Christians.
Hindoo names always are significant.
of three pupils who received the first prizes: Ammaui, Matron;
Amurdum, Nectar; Sivaratura, Gem of Life. The best. prizes
were French dolls, and were received with subdued but immens
We record the names
delight.
A drive on the surf-beaten shore, where foreigners “most do
congregate,” closed our first day at Madras.
Madras, February 12th.—We attended morning service at the
cathedral, a spacious though unostentatious edifice. It was difficult
at first to compose ourselves under the constant vibration of the
punkahs, w
wongregatio
memory of
the classic |
who was Z
but rememb
were attache
provement, ;
of his fellow.
February
India, with
pendency on
contain only
Weak and ign
ent on stron
them. The |
than four mil)
land. We h
litle kingdo
Vermont or
some time, th
nations must
regions if prs
those regions
There is, hoy
isworth dwel
filed to reta
United State;
acquire new
The reasons 1
genius of the
and priests, a
nes, Spain
tised restrietj
Holland, and
were loaded
nes. A val-
n by a child
ds sterling!
of the con-
tin vest, low
lace: white
d scarf; the
ym the osten-
ren had rich
constitute the
ks, and other
ywn or under:
ect, others in
yng of history
ol children ot
st simple pro-
by one class,
he native air,
he sung by the
Dearest Mae.”
ildren are edu:
r, however, be-
rd the names
maui, Matron;
he best prizes
but immense
ers ** most do
service at the
It was difficult
bration of the
BISHOP
HEBER. 357
vo
punkahs, which swing without ceasing over the heads of the large
wngregation. The beautiful hymn which was sung recalled the
memory of Heber, and a fine marble statue in the chancel gave us
the classic lineaments of the great Bishop of Calcutta. He it was
who was “zealous for his Church, and not forgetful of his station,
but remembering it more for the duties than for the honors that
were attached to it, and infinitely more zealous for the religious im-
provement, and for the happiness and spiritual and worldly good
of his fellow-creatures of every tongue, faith, and complexion.”
February 14th.—Tow strange it seems that this dominion of
India, with its two hundred millions of people, should be a de-
pendency on the two small islands of distant Great Britain, which
contain only thirty millions! And yet there is a reason for it.
Weak and ignorant tribes and nations are generally found depend-
et on stronger and more enlightened ones, if not absorbed by
them. The dorninions of Portugal, which never numbered more
than four millions, were once nearly as extensive as those of Eng-
lind. We have already seen the rich Eastern dominion of the
little kingdom of the Netherlands, whose area is about that of
Vermont or Maryland, Indeed, it seems as if dependence is, at
sme time, the normal condition of every nation. All prosperous
nations must expand. That expansion will be made on adjacent
regions if practicable ; if not practicable, it will then be made in
those regions, however distant, which offer the least resistance.
There is, however, a thought, connected with this subject, which
isworth dwelling upon. Why have Portugal, Spain, and France,
filed to retain the foreign dominions they founded, while the
United States, Great Britain, and the Netherlands, continually
acquire new territories, instead of losing those already secured ¢
The reasons must be found in a difference in the characters and
genius of the nations. Portugal colonized only with merchants
ind priests, and sought to monopolize the products of her colo-
nies. Spain colonized only with soldiers and priests, and prac-
tied restriction, monopoly, and extortion; while Great Britain,
llolland, and the United States, send out, for colonists, agricul-
24
358 BRITISH INDIA.
turists, mechanics, miners, and laborers; and, when they cannot
do this, they introduce cultivation, mining, and the mechanical
arts, among the conquered people. France conquers, not for the
development and improvement of the country subdued, or ty
increase her own wealth and power, but chiefly for the glory of
To compare great things with small, France cop.
the conquest.
quers, as the sportsman kills, only to show his skill as a marks.
man.
February 15th.—lear-Admiral Cockburn, her Britannic Majes.
ty’s naval commander on the East India station, arrived here jy
his flag-ship, the Forte, on the 14th instant. The official and
fashionable circles (by-the-way, both are very much one) all shower
hospitalities upon him and his officers. They were entertained
yesterday at dinner at Government Llouse, and participated in the
The ball was in the great
ball which was given to our party.
banqueting-hall, which is over the porte-cochére of the palace. Its
roof is supported by a double row of lofty Corinthian columns,
Instead of walls, the sides of this tropical ballroom are of movable
lattice-work, admitting the sea-breeze on either side. Though we
have chronicled many balls, this one was too splendid to be onit.
ted. Like Mr. Seward’s, however, the admiral’s thoughts are not
much diverted by the amusements of society. He is sixty years of
age, a loyal and veteran British sailor, a good observer, and a zeal:
ous philanthropist. The chief object, at present, of the naval police
which he maintains over these waters, is to suppress the petty trade
in slaves which is still carried on between the eastern coast of
Africa and the shores of the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea, and
the Persian Gulf. Although the two gentlemen were entirely wo
known to each other, Mr. Seward had the pleasant experience of |
finding the admiral an intelligent admirer of our country, anda
sympathizer in Mr. Seward’s political principles and sentiments.
The admiral has tendered us a cruise in the Forte from Bombay
to Muscat, with an excursion thence to the sites of Nineveh and
Babylon. This voyage, if it be practicable, will be the complement
of our Eastern travels. But it will require an early departure
from Bomb
dangerous 1
Februar
that the civ:
Within the
gal, with ©;
dras; and I
portions of
Novthwest,
by the crow
form of fed
has its own.
roy an Exec
retaries or
finance, war
This Execut
the viceroy §
residents in
consent of tl
the viceroy ¢
isalso a Leg
councillors,
by the vicer
mercial and
member of
bea legal a
He can veto
the crown.
Home Gove
ity in each {
tives of Ind
toeach. T
lative Coun
fully as thog
The govern
h they cannot
he mechanical
rs, not for the
ibdued, or ty
y the glory of
1, France con-
ll as a marks
ritannic Majes.
rived here in
he official and
one) all shower
pre entertained
ticipated in the
is in the great
the palace. Its
ithian columns,
are of movable
le. Though we
did to be omit:
houghts are not
is sixty years ol
rver, and a zeal:
the naval police
s the petty trade
eastern coast of
rabian Sea, and
vere entirely w:
nt experience of
r country, anda
d sentiments.
rte from Bombay
of Nineveh and
. the complement
early departure
INDIAN GOVERNMENT. 859
from Bombay, to avoid intolerable heat on the Euphrates as well as
dangerous monsoons in the Persian Gulf,
February 16th.—The British conquests in India are so recent,
that the civil government can hardly yet be said to be consolidated.
Within the vast territories there are three great presidencies-—Ben-
gal, with Calentta its capital; Madras, its capital the city of Ma-
dras; and Bonsbay, its capital Bombay. The northern and eastern
portions of the territory are divided into other provinces—the
Noethwest, the Central, and the Punjaub. A viceroy, appointed
by the crown for four years, resides at Calcutta, and administers
form of federal government, while each presidency and province
has its own local administration. There is associated with the vice-
roy an Executive Council, whose members may be regarded as see-
retarics or ministers charged with portfolios of foreign affairs,
finance, war, judiciary, post-office, improvements, and education.
This Executive Council, like a cabinet council elsewhere, attends
the viceroy semi-weekly or daily, as he requires. Its members are
residents in India, and they are appointed by the viceroy, with the
consent of the crown. With the consent of this Executive Council,
the viceroy appoints all magisterial and ministerial officers. There
isalso a Legislative Council, which consists of the same executive
councillors, with the addition of a few residents of India, selected
by the viceroy with the approval of the crown, to represent com-
mercial and popular interests. This Legislative Council has also a
member of the British bar, appointed by the Home Government, to
bea legal adviser. In each of the councils the viceroy presides.
He can veto, but not without rendering his reasons immediately to
the crown. This Legislative Council, subject to approval from the
ome Government, makes general laws and levies taxes. A major-
ity in each council are British, but four, five, or six prominent na-
tives of India, distinguished for rank, property, or merit, are added
tocach. The Executive Council sits with closed doors ; the Legis-
lative Council debates in public. Its proceedings are reported as
fully as those of the British Parliament, or of our own Congress.
The governments of the several presidencies and provinces are con-
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360 BRITISH INDIA.
structed entirely on the same model with that of the federal or im-
perial government just described. Thus it will be seen that the
government of British India differs from that of the United States
chiefly in its denial of the elective principle. All its appointments
are derived directly or indirectly from the crown.
The greatest social difficulty of the Government consists in con.
tending against the ancient laws and customs of caste. A touching
incident, which may be regarded as showing the protest of human
nature against the laws of caste, has just occurred: A young native
woman was indicted for the murder of her child, whose father was
of 2 lower caste than her own, and with which intermarriage was
forbidden. She confessed that she strangled the infant rather than
lose her caste. The jury, half native, half foreign, pronounced her
not guilty, notwithstanding her confession.
But the government of India, as we have described it, is not
established in all parts of the conquered territory. There are
many districts, some very large ones, which still remain under the
government, more or less absolute and exclusive, of native hercdi-
tary princes, not unlike the Indian “ nations” in the United States.
All these provinces acknowledge the supremacy of the British Gov-
ernment, and admit of its intervention in the local administration
by way of advice or protest. Some of them, more independent
than others, retain the simple relation of allies, offensive and de-
fensive, with the Government at Calcutta. Other native princes
submit to have their revenues collected by the Calcutta Govern-
ment, and even applied by it for the welfare and improvement of
the districts. Some admit judicial interference, others exclude it.
Some maintain armies, others have surrendered that power. All
India, doubtless, is in a transition state. Of such native districts or
provinces, there are encircled within the limits of the Presidency
of Madras, Travancore at the north end of the peninsula, Cape
Comorin, Mysore in the centre of the peninsula, and Hyderabad
in the northern part of the peninsula. The Prince of Mysore is
divested of all authority, and, while allowed his titular rank, is a
pensioned vassal, living under surveillance. The other two princes
are allies offensive and defensive of the British crown, and are
practically
working of
that he th
States.
If a per
enor, whet
visitors’ bo
less, the gc
at the palac
be received
cation in tu
Mr. Li
White Hon
has known
night to rec
On the
Fort St. G
Council. ]
pageant gre
guration,
umbrellas w
as they resp
retainers at
council-chan
the firing of
after a pleas
vey of this
the story of
the memors
that conques
double line
| The esplana
massive ston
A statue
was @ surpr
raised in the
federal or im.
seen that the
United States
appointments
consists in con-
. A touching
test of human
. young native
i0se father was
rmarriage was
int rather than
ronounced her
‘ibed it, is not
y. There are
nain under the
native heredi-
United States,
e British Gov-
administration
e independent
ensive and de
native princes
leutta Govern-
provement of
ers exclude it.
nt power, All
ive districts or
he Presidency
ninsula, Cape
nd Hyderabad
of Mysore is
lar rank, is a
her two princes
rown, and are
STATUE OF LORD CORNWALLIS.
361
practically independent. Mr. Seward is attentively studying the
working of this complex governmental machinery. He confesses
that he thinks it would hardly go on smoothly in the United
States. :
If a person, native or foreign, desires an audience of the gov-
enor, whether on business or not, he registers his name in the
visitors’ book in the adjutant’s office. After two weeks, more or
less, the governor gives notice that he will hold a public breakfast
at the palace, at which those who have registered their names will
be received. At this entertainment each person submits his appli-
cation in turn.
Mr. Lincoln used to receive promptly all who came to the
White House before four o’clock in the afternoon. Mr. Seward
has known many people sleep in the hall of the White House all
night to receive an early audience in the morning.
On the 14th, Mr. Seward drove with the governor to
Fort St. George, where his lordship was to hold an Executive
Council. Even this simple affair was made the occasion of a
pageant greater than is ever seen at Washington except at inau-
guration. The governor was escorted by fifty sepoys, huge white
umbrellas were held over him and over the heads of the ministers
as they respectively arrived at the gate of the fortress. A corps of
retainers attended each up the staircase and to the door of the
council-chamber. The opening of the session was announted by
the firing of a gun. Mr. Seward was received by the members, and,
after a pleasant interview, withdrew to amuse himself with a sur-
vey of this celebrated fortification. With its foundation, in 1639,
the story of British conquest in India began. It is identified with
the memorable wars, particularly those of Lord Clive, by which
that conquest has been perfected. Besides an arsenal, it contains a
double line of bomb-proofs to accommodate one thousand men.
The esplanade in front of the fort is protected against the sea by a
massive stone-wall,
A statue of Lord Cornwallis is a principal embellishment. It
was a surprise to us Americans to see so honorable a monument
raised in these colonies to the general who surrendered the last of
aaa nay en
362 BRITISH INDIA.
the British armies at Yorktown, and so yielded the last resistance
to the independence of the American colonies. The British gen.
eral, however, retrieved that misfortune by a successful and brill.
iant career as Governor-General of India, Happily for his fame,
his American disaster is as little remembered by the British nation,
as his successes in India are remembered in the United States.
Mr. Seward recalls a curious anecdote connccted with the Com.
wallis surrender at Yorktown. Henry Laurens, of South Carolina,
had been president of the Continental Congress, and had been
appointed minister to the Netherlands. He was captured on his
passage and imprisoned in the Tower of London, and held for trial
asa traitor to the crown. General Washington showed his con.
sideration for the father by delegating Captain Laurens, the son of
the imprisoned minister, to receive the sword of Cornwallis at York.
town. When news of the surrender reached London, Henry Lav.
rens was brought before the Court of King’s Bench, and discharged
from imprisonment on his own recognizance. They say that he
persisted in amending the recognizance by interpolating the worl
not. ‘I, Henry Laurens, acknowledge myself to be held and firmly
bound unto “not” my sovereign lord, King George the Third,”
and that Lord Mansfield, finding him obstinate, said, “ Let him
take the recognizance in his own way.”
February 18th.—Mr. Seward attended to-day a session of the
Legislative Council. The morning papers describe the council and
audience as follows: “ At the meeting of the Legislative Council
held at the council-chambers of Fort St. George to-day, there were
present the Right Honorable Lord Napier, President, the Honora.
ble A. J. Arbuthnot, J. B. Norton, J. D. Surin, P. Macfadyen, A.
F. Brown, Mir Humayoon, Jah Bahadur, Gu Gujapatti Row, and
V. Ranueugae.
“The Honorable William TI. Seward, Mr. J. Sutherland, anda
Eurepean pensioner were present.”
We learn that the Mr. Sutherland mentioned is himself the
reporter, but all inquiries have failed to ascertain why the third
auditor was described by the vague term of “ European pensionen”
As tk
and four
revenue
The deb
separatio
Calcutta,
tion and
revealed
strong je
endanger
to popul
are of lit
lists; pre
the mem]
natives W
It is a cw
every for
consists 0
ments fre
theless di
less than
Virgi
native la
to be, a7
state in d
Threq
of native
violins, ¥
were ela
meaning.
regret to
tinguish
the first ]
der Hind
and inte
salams, a
e last resistance
he British gen-
ssful and brill.
ly for his fame,
e British nation,
ited States.
i with the Com.
South Carolina,
s, and had been
captured on his
and held for trial
showed his con-
urens, the son of
rmwallis at York.
don, Henry Lau.
h, and discharged
They say that he
olating the word
e held and firmly
yrge the Third,”
, said, “ Let him
>a session of the
ye the council and
egislative Council
0-day, there were
dent, the Honora.
P. Macfadyen, A.
yjapatti Row, and
Sutherland, anda
ed is himself the
in why the third
opean pensioner”
THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 363
As the names of the councillors would imply, five are British,
and four are natives. The subject was a project of a law to raise
revenue for education, police, and irrigation, within the presidency.
The debates disclosed the fact that there is no recognized line of
separation between the powers of the “ Imperial” Government, at
Caleutta, and those of the provinces, in regard to the rights of taxa:
tion and the sources of revenue. The debates on this occasion
revealed what in the United States would be distinguished asa
strong jealousy of State rights—a jealousy, indeed, so great as to
endanger the entire fabric of government if appeal could be allowed
to popular suffrage. Practically, however, these demonstrations
are of little value. The “Imperial” Government may do what it
lists; provincial authority is rather ornamental than effective. All
the members spoke, or, rather, read written speeches. Those of the
natives were not less able and instructive than those of the British.
It is a curious illustration of the inevitable presence of faction in
every form of government, that, although this Legislative Council
consists of only eleven members, all of whom derive their appoint-
ments from the crown and are responsible to it alone, it is never-
theless divided into two parties, and we strangers, who have been
less than a week here, already understand them.
Virgil sang “arms and the man,” who, driven to exile, left his
native land to build a state on a forcign shore. Our theme seems
to be, avts and the men who voluntarily go into exile to build a
state in distant lands.
Three bands were summoned this morning, to give us an idea
of native music, All their instruments, with the exception of two
violins, were Indian reeds, lutes, and drums. The performances
were elaborate, but unmusical and unintelligible. We asked their
meaning. The performers explained with manifest alacrity. We
regret to say that even after this explanation we were unable to dis-
tinguish the dirge for a lost soul from the epithalamium. When
the first had been performed, Lord Napier asked the leader, a slen-
der Hindoo with large, flashing eyes and graceful bearing, to recite
and interpret the words of the melody. THe rose, made profound
salams, and then, standing erect, in solemn and measured manner
364 BRITISH INDIA.
chanted his answer: “The words, my lord, are an appeal to the
gods, to allow the poor soul to be consumed immediately with fire,
that it may no longer be tormented with remorse.” We had
already become weary of the performance, when the third band
broke into a discordant imitation of the old “Lancers” quadrille,
The musicians were dismissed forthwith, not much to their satisfac.
tion, although largely rewarded, for they had reckoned on a full
day’s performance. Hindoo music must have declined here, or it
must have been very much improved in Java since its introduction
there.
An Excursio
Homage
a Brami
to Madr
Lord an
Febru
pier, in a
of that na
railroad t
come half
engine, ar
coal is im}
in India ;
concluded
Europe.
est and m
passed is
yellowish
seemed to
covered ¥
these pool
the preva
The peasa
tle are mo
appeal to the
ately with fire,
se.’ We had
he third band
ers” quadrille,
o their satisfac.
oned on a full
ined here, or it
ts introduction
ee ee
CHAPTER II.
MADRAS (Continued).
An Excursion to Arcot.—Railroads in Hindostan.—Appearance of the Country.—The
Homage of Flowers.—Cauverypak.—The Native System of Cultivation.—Visit to
a Bramin.—Schools.—A Car of Juggernaut.—The Dutch Reformed Mission.—Back
to Madras.—The Portuguese Settlement.—Gindy Park.—A Diamond Merchant.—
Lord and Lady Napier.—The Normal School.
February 20th—We left Madras on the 18th, with Lord Na-
pier, in a special train. Arcot, the capital of the famous province
of that name, is seventy miles distant from Madras. A renewal of
railroad travel, after an interval of six months, in which we had
come half-way around the globe, was exhilarating. The road, the
engine, and the cars, are of Evropean construction, and even the
coal is imported from Wales. The gauge, five feet eight, is uniform
in India; but the Government, on considerations of economy, has
concluded to eentract it to the very narrow one recently proposed in
Europe. There are three classes of passengers, the third the cheap-
est and most numerous. ‘The soil of the region through which we
passed is light; the rocks, granite. The landscape wears a dull,
yellowish color, although there is no want of palm and cactus. We
seemed to be travelling alternately through sandy fields or meadows
covered with stagnant water. We soon learned, however, that
these pools are artificial reservoirs for irrigation. In some places,
the prevailing sterile aspect is relieved by fields of growing rice.
The peasantry dress chiefly in white. The herds of very small cat-
tle are more numerous than we expected to find in a country where
BRITISH INDIA.
366
the people abstain from animal food. The country seemed entirely
level, but we gained in the journey an ascent of one thousand feet
on the base of the Neilgherry Mountains, one of the three great
ranges which traverse the Indian peninsula. At this point, we
might have supposed that we were entering the Rocky Mountains
at Cheyenne.
As we rolled over the plain into the shaded streets of the an-
cient city of Ranepet, Mr. Seward said to Lord Napier, “ Now I
know, for the first time, that British authority is firmly established
in India.”
We seem, on this excursion, to be reviewing the history of the
conquest. The mountain-passes, the plains, and the monuments,
continually recall to our thoughts the first seizure of Madras} the
subsequent contentions, conflicts, surprises, stratagems, feers, con-
spiracies, extortions, rapacities, and massacres, which, continuing
through a perivd of two hundred and fifty years, have ended at
last with the suppression of the mutiny of 1857.
In 1745, there was a native war for the succession of the king.
dom of the Carnatic, which included the province of Arcot. The
French, at Pondicherry, maintained the cause of one claimant ; the
British, at Trinchinopoly and Madras, maintained the other. Ma-
dras was closely besieged by the French and allies. Clive, then
merely a clerk in the British Uast India Company’s office at Ma-
dras, proposed to force a raising of the siege by making a move
on Arcot. His brilliant success in surprising and capturing and
holding it four months, with less than four hundred men, against
ten thousand French and native troops, was the beginning of the
matchless career of that leader whom the elder Pitt pronounced a
“heaven-born general.”
Notice of the governor’s coming to Arcot had been sent forward.
The native collector of revenue mct us at Ranepet, the railway-
station for that district. He is thirty years old, speaks English
fluently, and was elaborately dressed in native costume. He was
surrounded by some dozen Hindoos. He proceeded at once to
place in Lord Napier’s hanas flowers and fresh limes, at the same
time covering him with garlands of flowers. When the agent had
been pre
complime
lar expres
ceremony
of the st:
respectful
new wrea
arch to th
broke int«
ing us wit
intending
quest that
turnpike |
The road
acacia, an
Arabic. -
ble flambe
the never-
oraceful it
Mohamme
England, :
the offices
with the
heroes wh
tinguished
the native
‘ndepende
of the dist
and Mr.
of Cauver
mou: tain-
is cnclosec
dam, forty
bankments
palm trees
above the
med entirely
housand feet
three great
18 point, we
‘y Mountains
ts of the an-
ier, ‘ Now I
y established
1istory of the
/ monuments,
Madras; the
18, feers, con-
hn, continuing
ave ended at
1 of the king-
Arcot. The
laimant ; the
other. Ma-
Clive, then
office at Ma-
king a move
apturing and
men, against
rinning of the
pronounced a
sent forward.
, the railway-
xeaks English
me. He was
xd at once to
3, at the same
the agent had
EXCURSION TO AROCOT. 367
beon presented to us, we were severally honored with the same
compliment. We inquired whether this was a voluntary and popu-
lar expression of welcome, or a prescribed one, and learned that the
ceremony is the Hindoo form of homage to a ruler. At the gate
of the station we encountered a crowd, obsequious rather than
respectful, who threw flowers in our path, and invested us with
new wreaths. Thus splendidly adorned, we passed under a flo-al
arch to the carriages. At the instant of stepping in, a Hindco band
broke into a musical jargon, which frightened the horses, threaten-
ing us with serious danger. A sepoy body ci infantry had loaded,
intending to honor his excellency with a fusillade, but at our re-
quest that ceremony was dispensed with. We drove over a good
turnpike causeway to the village of Ranepet, a suburb of Arcot.
The road is bordered «vith mangoes, tamarinds, yellow flowering
acacia, and the Acacia vera, whose juice when coagulated is gum-
Arabic. Honorary green arches decorated the way, and innumera-
ble flambeaux illuminated it. The approach to the town showed us
the never-failing Hindoo temple, which, however small, is always
graceful in form, and elegant in construction; opposite to it, is a
Mohammedan mosque, and, farther on, a chapel of the Church of
England, and an American mission meeting-house. Here also are
the offices of the collector of the revenue. These buildings, together
with the barracks and many weather-worn monuments of British
heroes who fell here, are the only relics of the city of Arcot, so dis-
tinguished in the history of the conquest. For aught we can see,
the natives have forgotten, if they ever had the idea of, political
‘independence. We were the guests of the British superior officer
of the district. Yesterday morning our party divided ; Lord Napier
and Mr. Seward went to see the fountain and agricultural village
of Cauverypak, distant thirty miles. Artificial conduits intercept
mou: tain-torrents, and convey their waters to this reservoir, which
is cnclosed by a granite wall supported by broad embankments. A
dam, forty feet high, is raised across the natural outlet. The em-
bankments are strengthened, on the outer deciivity, by mango and
palm trees. Thus the reservoir forms a lake of pure water, high
above the surrounding country, which is five miies wide and seven
368 BRITISH INDIA.
miles long—and, at high water, thirteen feet deep. We have taken
pains to describe this pretty lake of Cauverypak, because it is a
good specimen of ancient reservoirs, constructed for irrigation, in
the country—which are innumerable—and all of which alike bear
the ugly naine of “ tank.”
The system of culture will be easily understood when we have
mentioned that a broad plain stretches away from the base of the
fountain farther than the eye can reach. Out of this plain arise
thirty-two gentle knolls, on each of which stands an agricultural
village, and these villages contain an aggregate population of a
hundred and fifty thousand. Cauverypak is one of these. These
people cultivate the entire plain in fields varying from an acre
to fifteen acres. The staple production is rice. Grounds which,
owing to a drought, fail to receive a full supply of water from the
reservoir, are called “ dry fields,” and these are tilled with cereals
and vegetables, or serve as pasturage for sheep and cattle. Cau
verypak was found exactly in its present condition by the first
British adventurers, but it stands without record or tradition.
It was a principle of the system of native govenment in India,
that not only all the lands, but also all the waters in a province,
belong to the reigning prince, whatever title he might wear, king,
maharajah, rajah, or nawab. He leased them to zemindars (large
landlords), or to ryots (lesser farmers), who paid for their use
according to a tariff graduated with just relation to the productive-
ness of the estates.
The British Goverament has come into the places of the princes,
and the Madras presidency maintains the “tanks,” and receives
the rents. The average rent is four dollars per acre.
Drought is a normal incident in India, and is the cause of the
famines of which we so often read. In such cases the Government
remits the rents, but the zemindars and ryots are nevertheless left
without means for the support of their families. The extortion
practised upon them by usurers is frightful. Cauverypak village
contains ten thousand people, three hundred of whom are ryots;
the others chiefly mechanics and laborers. Many of the ryots
belong to the privileged castes of Bramins, who were not only
exempt fire
ard were
stone struc
kitchen, a
In the cer
gathering
row their
building is
one openil
the other :
six small ¢
at seventy
being saci
Hindoo a1
pensable
columns, €
the top.
way has a
mat, whiel
the house
Bramin’s
two bamb
not usual]:
brazen ji
mosque.
a hundred
native sch
received a
castes.
whether e
the Hind
“Why do
aud make;
The
the older
Seward a
’e have taken
‘ause it is a
irrigation, in
ch alike bear
hen we have
1e base of the
is plain arise
h agricultural
pulation of a
these. These
from. an acre
ounds which,
ater from the
l with cereals
cattle. Cau-
by the first
adition.
nent in India,
in a province,
it wear, king,
vindars (large
for their use
1e productive-
of the princes,
and receives
cause of the
Government
vertheless left
‘he extortion
rypak village
ym are ryots;
of the ryots
ere not only
VISIT TO A BRAMIN. 369
exempt from labor, but forbidden it. Lord Napier and Mr. Sew-
ard were received by the chief Bramin ryot at his house. It is a
stone structure of one low story, with reception-room, dining-room,
kitchen, and stable, built around on all sides of an open square.
In the centre of the square, was a reservoir, an open cistern for
gathering and holding rain. Again we ask, Did the Romans bor-
row their ¢mpluviwm from the East? In rear of this quadrangular
building is another of exactly the same form and dimensions. The
one opening on the street is the dwelling of the ryot and his family ;
the other is appropriated to the use of visitors. In the stable are
six small oxen, which are used in cultivation, the whole six valued
at seventy-five dollars. The manure, like the animals themselves,
being sacred, is carefully preserved for burning in the temples.
Hindoo architecture has a peculiar feature. The veranda, indis-
pensable in this climate, is supported by delicate, palm-shaped
columns, each of whic’. is ornamented with a broad brass band at
the top. There are no bedrooms, but each corridor or passage-
way has at each end a dais eighteen inches high, covered with a
mat, which serves for a bed. The small garden-plat attached to
the house is filled with cocoa-nut trees, bananas, and beans. The
Bramin’s furniture is simple enough. He has two plain tables,
two bamboo chairs, and several fine silken rugs. Refreshments are
not usually offered, but on this occasion fresh milk was served in
brazen jugs. The village has two Hindoo temples and one
mosque. The school, maintained by the Madras government, has
a hundred and fifty native pupils. Besides this, there are twenty
native schools, some Hindoo, some Mohammedan, where pupils are
received and taught separately, with careful regard to their social
castes. Mr. Seward asked the ryot, who is a spiritual authority,
whether education is approved by the Bramins. “ Yes,” answered
the Hindoo. “Why?” “Because it is pleasing to the gods.”
“Why does it please the gods?” ‘ Lecause it improves the mind,
aud makes it appreciative of heaven.”
The poor villagers gathered around the visitors, and some of
the older ones seemed desirous of conversation. They gave Mr.
Seward an account of the number of pupils in each of the several
~ om = ae
370 BRITISH INDIA.
schools. They seemed confounded when he asked if these num.
bers included the girls; they replied, ‘Only the boys.” When
asked how the girls are educated, they said, “ No girls are educated
except Nautch girls.”
Passing through an open paved square, Mr. Seward’s attention
way caught by a rough, uncouth, and unwieldy vehicle. It consists
of a platform ten feet long and eight feet wide, laid upon axles, on
which turned four wooden wheels, all of one size, not more than
ten or twelve inches in diameter. In front of the platform stands
a carved and unpainted idol, ten feet high, with hideous allegorical
emblems and devices, This is a car of Juggernaut. It is drawn
through the streets by the people, during sacred ceremonies. Im-
molation of devotees is now forbidden by British law. There would
seem, however, to be little need for that prohibition. It would
require great skill and effort on the part of a votary to get his neck
under the wheels of the awkward machine. If we did not know
that superstition is as blind as it is overpowering, we could not
believe that any human mind could conceive such a deformed and
misshapen statue to be a god. Mr. Seward’s survey of the interest-
ing little village closed with an exploration of the suburb which is
allotted to the pariahs, the lepers, the outcasts of India. Their
habitations are mean and wretched beyond description, but their
condition is not without a compensation. While all other castes
are obliged by their laws to abstain from animal food, and forbid-
den to take animal life, the pariahs are allowed to use the car-
casses of the animals found dead. In this way, they have become
the tanners of the country. It is no wonder that they are care-
fully watched, to prevent their slaying domestic animals under the
pretext of finding them dead.
During their long drive, Lord Napier and Mr. Seward saw only
one beggar, and he was blind—a Bramin. Having been led up
to their carriage by neighbors, he declined to receive alms, because
he had left behind him his brazen basin through which he alone
could accept coin from any one not of his own caste, without per-
sonal contamination. When, however, he felt the weight of a
rupee carefully dropped into his sleeve, he turned his eyeballs
in the d
tive nat
answere
sweetly
ship pas
to the g
indeed vy
“but th
Duri
They ha
chapel.
noisy ch:
veranda,
(which h
for they
The .
(now the
brothers
thirty ye
due to
preachers
practice 1
are at a ]
ahigh dq
felt even
physician
in a prop
The
is about
found wit
without
have nov
villages,
girls, all
dren thus
the count
these num.
ys.” When
are educated
‘d’s attention
It consists
pon axles, on
yt more than
atform stands
us allegorical
It is drawn
monies. Im-
There would
ym. It would
» get his neck
did not know
we could not
deformed and
f the interest-
burb which is
India. Their
ion, but their
1 other castes
d, and forbid-
D use the car-
r have become
hey are care-
als under the
ward saw only
been led up
alms, because
rhich he alone
b, without per-
> weight of a
} his eyeballs
THE ARCOT MISSION.
871
in the direction from which the party had come, and sung a plain-
tive native melody. Lord Napier asked how old he was; he
answered, “Seventy.” “ What is the song you have sung so
sweetly?” “It is a hymn of praise to the gods whom your lord-
ship passed on the road as you came here.” “ How is it you sing
to the gods, when they have made you blind?” ‘ The gods have
indeed willed that I shall be blind,” the mendicant Hindoo replied,
“but they protect me still.”
During Mr. Seward’s absence the ladies remained at Ranepet.
They had appointed to attend early worship at the missionary-
chapel. The matin summons was sounded, not by bells, but by a
noisy chattering of birds, Springing up and going quickly to the
veranda, they saw that the deciduous trees around the bungalow
(which had dropped nearly all their leaves) were as green as ever,
for they were filled with parrots and paroquets.
The Arcot mission of the Dutch Reformed Church of America
(now the Reformed Church) was estabijished in 1855, by three
brothers Scudder, sons of the eminent missionary who labored here
thirty years ago. Beyond a doubt, the success of this mission is
due to the persevering energy and winning address of these
preachers, but it was more to their happy combination of medical
practice with their religious teachings. Medical science and skill
are at a low ebb on the Asiatic Continent, while they have attained
ahigh development in the West. This superiority is known and
felt even by the very lowest classes in the East. The Christian
physician, who comes to heal the body, naturally finds his patient
in a proper temper for the healing of the soul.
The municipal district in which the Arcot mission is established
is about one hundred and sixty miles square. The missionaries
found within it only thirty-five native Christians, and these were
without a church or a school. The missionaries (six in number)
have now fifty native helpers, who teach day-school in seventeen
villages. ‘They have their boarding-schools, two for boys, one for
girls, all voluntary pupils. The converts intermarry. The chil-
dren thus educated, although belonging to all the various castes of
the country, are placed upon a footing of complete equality. The
~ me &
372 BRITISH INDIA.
boarding-school at Ranepet, which is the most successful one, oc-
cupies large government barracks. Dr. Scudder has introduced
some trades into this school, the principal one that of weaving on
native looms. But even a more beneficent institution than these
schools is a medical hospital. The Madras government appropri-
ates to it, in addition to the requisite buildings, one hundred and
seventy-two rupees (about eighty-five dollars) monthly. The in.
stitution was founded in 1866, and, during the past year, fifty-three
thousand nine hundred and sixty-three patients were gratuitously
treated from its dispensary. Seven hundred and fifty-three of
these were in-door patients, who were provided with beds, food,
and clothing. Lord Napier has added to this useful charity a
spacious house in which persons of different castes may prepare
their own food and live separately, according to their native cus-
toms. This noble mission draws from its patrons in the United
States only twenty-five thousand dollars a year. The simple
homes, frugal habits, and patient labors, of these missionaries and
their families, are worthy of all praise and admiration. The mis.
sionaries are full of hope, though they confess the work of conver-
sion is very slow. They gain only one hundred a year within the
district. Nevertheless a manifest improvement in the condition of
the people is visible. With this improvement, if it shall go on, we
ulust be content, for we trust that—
‘““Whatever creed be taught or land be trod,
Man’s conscience is the oracle of God.”
February 23d.—We visited yesterday the suburb called the
“ Portuguese Settlement ;” so called, not because it is under Por-
tuguese jurisdiction, but because it was the site of the Portuguese
factory, before the British conquest. Its inhabitants, of native and
mixed Portuguese, are Christians, and speak the Portuguese lan-
guage. They have a cathedral, with an exemplary bishop from
Lisbon. The cathedral bears the name of St. Thomas, to whom
tradition attributes the first teaching of the gospel here. However
this particular fact may be, the opinion that that apostle preached
the gospel on the Coromandel coast is well supported by historical
argument
that theix
Gama fou
of discove
it is alleg
They say
of his foot
Gindy
this sumn
which is 1
acres are ¢
cultivatior
vated wit!
mend We
institution
let throug!
Northern
the Gypsi
pretty ha
of palm, ¢
and pay td
(a dollar) ¢
paying tet
Ilindoo vi
sitting in
tree, in a
gave out §
arithmetic
his mouth,
wrote the
showed g
sooner had
their feet,
salam, ind
We crosse
ssful one, oc-
gs introduced
r weaving on
n than these
ent appropri-
hundred and
ly. The in-
sar, Jifty-three
» gratuitously
fifty-three of
h beds, food,
ful charity a
may prepare
ir native cus-
in the United
The simple
ssionaries and
on. The mis-
ork of conver-
ear within the
le condition of
hall go on, we
irb called the
is under Por-
1e Portuguese
, of native and
ortuguese lan-
bishop from
mas, to whom
re. However
ostle preached
d by historical
GINDY PARK. 373
arguments. Marco Polo found native Christians here, who claimed
that their church was planted by the doubting disciple. Vasco de
Gama found native Christians on the coast during his second voyage
of discovery. Guides show us the hill and cave at Malapoo, where
it is alleged that St. Thomas sought refuge and suffered martyrdom.
They say that even the threshold of the cave still bears the impress
of his foot.
Gindy Park, February 24th—We have come to pass a day at
this summer palace. On the way we inspected a “model farm,”
which is maintained by the Madras government. Three hundred
acres are divided into two equal parts, of which one is used for the
cultivation of exotic grains, plants, and seeds; the other is culti-
vited with European implements only—the design being to com-
mend Western agriculture to the natives. We learn that the
institution gains favor. We were much interested in a small ham-
let through which we passed. The inhabitants are wanderers from
Northern India. It is maintained, not without plausibility, that
the Gypsies of Europe are descended from the same class. Their
pretty habitations are in mango-orchards, and are built of branches
of palm, exactly in the shape of a beehive. They gather the fruit,
and pay to the Madras government an annual rent of two rupees
(a dollar) a year for cach tree. We imagine they are the only rent-
paying tenants of their outcast race. We have seen a specimen of
Hindoo village-schools. Thirty boys, most of them naked, were
sitting in the sand, under the shade of a wide-spreading mango-
tree, in a circle. The master stood in the centre, rod in hand, and
gave out successive lessons, in the Tamil language, in spelling and
arithmetic. The whole school, simultaneously, took the words from
his mouth, giving them back with their own; and at the same time
wrote the words with their fingers in the sand. These children
showed great agility, as well as quickness of apprehension, No
sooner had they written the text in the ground, than they sprang to
their feet, raised their right hands to their foreheads and made a
salam, indicating that they were ready to receive the next lesson.
We crossed a stone bridge which has stood a hundred and fifty
25
3
years with only the repair of a parapet.
EX
74 BRITISH INDIA.
A small tenement beneath
the bridge was pointed out to us as the dwelling of the descendants
of the Armenian merchant who brought himself to poverty in build.
ing the magnificent structure.
Gindy House is even more extensive and elegant than Govern.
ment House at Madras. The park contains fifteen hundred acres,
Native deer, of the four kinds known in India, sport on the lawns,
Instead of alighting at a gate or porte-cochére, we were driven to
a shade in the beautiful gardens. They exhibit a luxuriance
unknown in colder climates. Every wall, every thatched roof,
every gateway and column, scems to have been especially designed
to support a flowering creeper, which nearly conceals the structure,
and these plants are as various in hue as in the form of tendril or
leaf. Efforts are made to produce northern exotics, as studied as
those which we at home make to cultivate tropical plants. The
success in each case is about the same.
We doubt which was most effective, the gorgeous display of
flowers around us, or the dew-drops which glistened on grass, and
flowers, and trees, under the rays of the morning sun. The heat
increasing rapidly, we took shelter under a noble mango, where
the morning libation of tea was made. We talked and laughed at
translations of the highly-imaginative native poetry. We dined
en yamille at the palace, and, as the evening shades came on,
adjourned to a féte-champétre in the gardens. The society of
Madras was there. If any thing was needed to heighten the brill-
jant scene, it was found in the exquisite music of the military
bands, which played airs in echo across the broad park and on its
beautiful lakes,
Madras, February 26th.—New acquaintances and new studies,
The diamond merchant is an important personage in every Asiatic
country, for diamonds are the favorite investment of wealth. An
eminent Armenian of that class breakfasted at Government House
this morning. His organ of perception is strongly developed, and
he has a shrewd, almost furtive expression. He was entertained
in the most acceptable manner by being allowed to exhibit for
our insti
diamond:
for @ core
Avenue ©
greatest t
trade an
it The
it; it is o
so conspi
called for
“My son,
brated ge
and did n
Event:
Lady Nay
versities a
visited an
for the ch
were end
came che
They inqt
“Trom G
and insist
following
Perha
charities,
It has fifte
charge, a
and from
be “seen
toward tl
We notice
from her
voice, J
and her o
ement beneath
he descendants
bverty in build-
t than Govern.
hundred acres,
t on the lawns,
were driven to
t a luxuriance
thatched roof,
pcially designed
Is the structure,
m of tendril or
cs, as studied as
ul plants. The
eous display of
d on grass, and
sun. The heat
2 mango, where
1 and laughed at
ry. We dined
hades came on,
The society of
sighten the brill:
of the military
| park and on its
und new studies.
in every Asiatic
of wealth. An
vernment House
y developed, and
was entertained
1d to exhibit for
MADRAS.
375
our instruction the contents of his waistcoat-pockets, consisting of
diamonds of every size and of every water, jewels quite sufficient
for a coronation, and even enough to satisfy the ambition of a Fifth
Avenue belle. He gave us a relation of what he considered the
greatest transaction of his life: Having acquired in the course of
trade an extraordinary diamond, he sent his son to Europe to sell
i. The son was admitted to the Tuileries, and the empress bought
it; it is one of the “pear-shaped” diamond ear-rings which figured
so conspicuously in the inventory of her jewels. The empress
called for “the regent,” and showed it to the young Armenian.
“My son,” said the merchant, ‘“ was permitted to take that cele-
brated gem in his hand; he looked into it through tears of joy,
and did not give it back until he had pressed it to his lips.”
Evening.—It will be a mournful day for Madras when Lord and
Lady Napier take their leave. While he builds and endows uni-
versities and hospitals, there is no charity which she neglects. We
visited an orphan asylum with her to-day, and afterward an asylum
for the children of the Sepoys. Although the studies for the day
were ended, and the children were at play in the grounds, they
came cheerfully up and took their places in the examination-room.
They inquired what they should sing for us. Mr. Seward proposed
“Trom Greenland’s icy mountains.” They sang it in full chorns,
and insisted upon our naming another. They sang this too; then,
following us to the gate, gave us “God save the Queen.”
Perhaps the best, certainly the most interesting, of these noble
charities, is the normal school for the instruction of native women.
It has fifteen pupils, all of high caste. They are educated free of
charge, and even paid for their attendance. They are driven to
and from the school-house in close carriages, so that they may not
be “seen of men.” We fear that the importance of this noble step
toward the civilization of the East is scarcely realized at home.
We noticed among the pupils a girl of seventeen, distinguished
from her dark-eyed companions by a sad demeanor and plaintive
voice. In a single year she had lost her husband whom she loved,
and her only child. The laws of her caste doomed her to seclusion
BRITISH INDIA.
376
and celibacy for life, to give up her jewels, friends, and hopes. The
normal school allows her activity, cheerfulness, and usefulness.
We learn that the Duke of Argyll, Secretary for India, takes a
deep interest in the institution, and has just sent out from England
a young lady to take charge of it, who was educated for that pur.
pose in the United States.
THE SURF AT MADRAS.
The Surf at |
Viceroy’s
—The B;
Steame.
never ceas
dozen yea
extending
tal nor en;
effective.
We ing
native surf-
was hauled
with bamb¢
and of matd
water will
standing th
ers, For t
benches wh
serves as a |
We were lif
the stern, u
aide-de-cam
hopes. The
sefulness.
India, takes a
from England
1 for that pur-
CHAPTER III.
FROM MADRAS TO CALCUTTA.
The Surf at Madras.—On the Bay of Bengal.—The Lion-Whelps.—The Hoogiy.—The
Viceroy’s Invitaticn.—Earl and Countess Mayo.—Glimpses of Calcutta.—The Baboo.
—The Baboo’s House and Harem.—The Government House.
Steamer Australia, Bay of Bengal, February 27th.—The surf
never ceases to beat and break against the shore at Madras. A
dozen years ago an attempt was made to overcome the difficulty by
extending a pier into the sea. But there was found neither capi-
tal nor engineering skill anywhere sufficient to make the work
effective.
We insisted on leaving the shore in the primitive way. A
native surf-boat, eighteen feet long, five feet wide, and six feet deep,
was hauled high and dry on the beach. The boat is constructed
with bamboo-withes instead of spikes and nails, to prevent leakage,
and of material so light, and proportions so exact, that no weight of
water will cause it to sink. It is presumed always that, notwith-
standing the boat is so deep, it will fill in going through the break-
ers, For this reason, the passengers, as well as the oarsmen, sit on
benches which are stretched across the boat’s brim, and each bench
serves as a brace for the feet of the occupants of the bench behind it.
We were lifted in chairs by Hindoos and spilled on the benches in
the stern, under the awning of British flags. A secretary and an
aide-de-camp of the governor were with us, and we enjoyed our
378
new excitement as our score of boatmen, with merry shouts and
BRITISH INDIA.
cheerful song, laboriously forced the boat through the foaming
surf.
We sailed at four o’clock. If the thought gave us sadness that
we were never to see Madras again, we consoled ourselves with the
reflection that, even if a return were possible, we should not find
there the same friends; and what could we see, or know, or enjcy,
there without them ?
Bay of Bengal, February 28th.—Once again on the same calm
sea, with the same southern breezes, protected by the broad awning
from the same burning sun. Our two weeks of rest and recreation
at Madras already seem not so much an episode of our voyage, as
a refreshing and inspiring dream. At daylight we had reached
shoal water, and a channel marked by lighted buoys. Birds sur.
rounded the ship in great numbers. Sailing-ships and steamers
continually shot by us. Consulting the chart, we found that, al-
though no land was visible, we had entered between the capes
which guard the entrance of the Loogly into the bay of Bengal,
We took a native pilot.
The Hoogly is one of the rivers which, dividing into a thou-
sand erecks, and through as many lagoons, discharge the mighty
flood of the Ganges. Ever-moving sand-bars render the navigation
here uncertain and perilous. We slackened our speed from forty-
nine to fourteen revolutions until the flood-tide set in. Low, sandy
shores at length appeared. Subject at all seasons to terrible inun-
dations, they have never been reclaimed for tillage, and are often
strewn with the bodies of animals, asd sometimes with human
bodies.
Our ship ought to receive a demonstrative welcome at Calcutta,
for she bears two African lion-whelps to grace the menagerie of
some potentate there; whether native prince or European viceroy,
ve have not learned. Although but three months old, these
“babes” have attained a large size. They stare at us boldly with
their big green eyes, and switch their tails with a savage inde-
pendence.
} to say, the pd
m Larl Mayo a
March
son at Pou
equator.
freshly ove
Althou
the heat is
the contine
that we are
the Ganges
nious ame
Calcutta
the viceroy’
livery—rou
secretary of
United Stat
American re
viceroy, invi
stay here.
consul-gener,
promised, w
with our co
viceroy.
Last nig]
the viceroy.
Italian troup
we had at ]
rounded by ¢
whose gold ay
viceregal cou
the viceroy, ¢
sist that My
making a pre
ment House t
y shouts and
the foaming
sadness that
lves with the
ypuld not find
OW, OF eNjcy,
he same calm
broad awning
nd recreation
yur voyage, as
, had reached
gs. Birds sur-
and steamers
found that, al-
een the capes
ay of Bengal.
ly into a thou-
we the mighty
the navigation
bed from forty-
Low, sandy
terrible inun-
and are often
gs with human
me at Calcutta,
menagerie of
ropean viceroy,
hths old, these
us boldly with
a savage inde
CALCUTTA.
379
March 1st.—The Hoogly has shrunk to the width of the Hud-
son at Poughkeepsie. The vegetation here is as luxuriant as at the
Very soon, however, these palm-shaded fields, though so
freshly overfic wed, will become dry and brown.
Although we are entering Calcutta before the vernal equinox,
the heat is already intense. If we distrust our strength to explore
the continent before us, we have nevertheless the inspiring thought
that we are floating on the Ganges we have so long desired to see—
the Ganges, notwithstanding it is called here by the less eupho-
nious uame of the Hoogly.
equator.
Calcutta, March 2d.—As we approached the wharf yesterday,
the viceroy’s barge—manned by thirty Bengalese boatmen in scarlet
livery—rounded up to the Australia’s side. Major Burne (private
secretary of the viceroy) came on board, accompanied by the
United States consul-general, Mr. Jacobs, and Mr. McAllister, an
American residing here. Major Burne delivered a letter from the
viceroy, inviting us to be guests at Government House during our
stay here. Mr. Seward had before accepted the invitation of the
consul-general and Mr. McAllister. The matter was quickly com-
promised, with the understanding that, after passing some days
with our countrymen, we should accept the hospitalities of the
viceroy.
Last night happened to be a “state” one at the opera; that is
| to say, the performance then was to be honored by the presence of
the viceroy. The representation of “ Lucia di Lammermoor” by an
Italian troupe, before a fashionable assemblage, made us aware that
we had at last reached the Eastern verge of Western society.
@ Earl Mayo and the Countess of Mayo, in the central box, were sur-
# rounded by their suite, and a group of native princes, or rajahs,
whose gold and jewels far outshone those worn by the ladies of the
viceregal court. Between the acts Mr. Seward was presented to
the viceroy, and afterward to the brilliant circle. His lordship in-
sist: that Mr. Seward, without taking upon himself the trouble of
making a preliminary visit, should with his family lunch at Govern-
ment House to-day, and then, or as soon after as convenient, become
ae
inmate
and ba
The
has a @
are fra1
yative |
the Dis
Ma:
Govern
here di
hail fro:
city.
Dur
in the \
—“the
extensi\
they are
foreigne
veranda
The nat
but gen
of the
by aw
dingy al
ured wi
The arr
ous gro}
for buil
and puly
Mar
since hal
new fre
theless |
as may
THE CITY OF PALACES. 881
inmates of that household. He was further informed that carriages
and barges would be at his orders during his stay here.
The Jarl of Mayo is purely Irish. He is tall, handsome, and
has a commanding presence, with manners which, though dignified,
are frank and genial. As Lord Naas, he was many years a conser-
vative member of Parliament, and was Secretary for Ireland during
the Disraeli administration.
March 2d, Evening.—We have enjoyed a pleasant morning at
Government House. This evening, the few Americans residing
here dined with us at Mr. McAllister’s. The fact that they all
hail from Boston is creditable to the enterprise of that intellectual
city. .
During the day we had some glimpses of Calcutta. If it were
in the West, its aspect would hardly justify the distinction it bears
—“the City of Palaces.” The government buildings are indeed
extensive, numerous, and substantial; but, in point of architecture,
they are respectable rather than imposing. Private dwellings of
foreigners combine European solidity with the graceful Oriental
verandas and columns; but they have no pretentious magnificence.
The native city contains many stately residences of pleasant aspect,
but generally the dwellings are low and common. The appearance
of the whole city (the foreign as well as the native part) is spoiled
by a wretched stucco which, by exposure to tlie weather, becomes
dingy and discolored. The suburbs on the river-banks are disfig-
ured with brick-yards, counted not by hundreds, but by thousands.
The array would seem to indicate that the city is enjoying a vigor-
ous growth ; inquiry, however, brings out the fact that no sand fit
for building is found in the vicinity, and bricks are therefore burned
and pulverized as a substitute for that necessary article.
March 4th—A northeaster set in on the Ist, and we have
since had cold rains. The “oldest inhabitant” says that this is a
new freak of the climate. Hard as it has rained, we have never-
theless been obliged to go abroad, for—after seven months’ travel,
as may be easily imagined—we have pretty much come to the
882 BRITISH INDIA.
unhappy condition of our celebrated countrywoman, “ Miss Flora
McFlimsey.” Our troubles are aggravated at the state of the
market, which, they say, is just experiencing the calamitous effects
of the war between Germany and France. Gloves are not to be
had in Calcutta.
The “ baboo,” called by Burke, in his invective against Warren
Hastings, the “banyan,” is a native trained to trade, and speaks
English. Like the comprador in China and Japan, he attaches
himself to a mercantile house, to an official contractor, or some
other business concern (either native or foreign), and negotiates
commercial matters; receiving commissions from one party or the
other, according to circumstances. He often rises to wealth and
influence. One of this class solicited a visit from Mr. Seward, add.
ing that, while the baboo and his sons would receive him, the ladies
would be welcomed by the zenana. Such a courtesy is rarely, if
ever, extended to foreigners.
The foundation of this baboo’s fortune was laid by his father
long ago, in connection with an American house; and the present
incumbent, who is seventy years old, has added to his wealth and
importance. He has now his fifth wife. We visited him to-day.
The house, though more cheaply built than those of the wealthy
class which we saw at Canton, is of the same model. It is three
stories high, and covers the sides of a square as large as one of the
blocks of Philadelphia. The area within is used for fountains and
baths. A group, consisting of the baboo’s three sons and their
sons, received us at the gate, very obsequiously. They showed us
the way to a grand hall, having a vaulted roof and double colon-
nade. A few elegant chairs, with yellow-satin cushions, placed on
a scarlet-velvet rug in the centre of the room, constituted the fur-
niture. Here the eldest son welcomed Mr. Seward in a eulogistic
English oration, and then presented his several brothers and each
of the lads in attendance. Brightly-dressed servants meanwhile
stirred the air with large peacock-fans, mounted on massive silver
handles five feet long; others, to the great prejudice of the ladies’
dresses, sprinkled us from head to foot with rose-water from silver
vases; others, again, covered us with garlands and bouquets; and
yet oth
perfum
baboo’s
valetud
“ great
ducted
the chil
as boys
infants
their p:
backwa
extende
After th
unprece
family, «
ceiving |
through
only. 1
sented te
of mank
—we wi
great cor
Ther
heard.
of who
gleaming
like so n
der arms
nervous
to raise
eyes and
tendernes
complimg
drew.
Mr. §
cluding :
Miss Flora
tate of the
itous effects
2 not to be
nst Warren
and speaks
he attaches
yr, OF some
| negotiates
party or the
wealth and
eward, add-
n, the ladies
is rarely, if
yy his father
the present
s wealth and
him to-day,
the wealthy
It is three
s one of the
buntains and
s and their
ty showed us
ouble colon-
s, placed on
ted the fur-
a eulogistic
rs and each
s meanwhile
assive silver
bf the ladies’
from silver
uquets ; and
THE BABOO’S HAREM. 883
yet others held before us silver vases containing the attar of roses for -
perfuming the hands. These ceremonies over, we ascended to the
baboo’s room, in the third story. Quite infirm, he was dressed as a
valetudinarian, though richly. He welcomed Mr. Seward as the
“great father of the greatest of the nations.’ The baboo con-
ducted us then to an adjacent drawing-room, and ordered that all
the children of the house, not excepting the youngest, girls as well
as boys, should be brought in by their ayahs (nurses). Twenty
infants were brought in, gaudily dressed. The little ones acted
their proper parts with entire truth to nature: some shrank
backward; many screamed; one or two shrieked; while others
extended their small hands, and bashfully performed salame.
After this came an order, from the baboo, as unexpected as it was
unprecedented in that family. It was that all the women of the
family, except the widows, should now enter the apartment. Re-
ceiving this command, in their different rooms, the women inquired
through a messenger whether they were to be scen by the ladies
only. The baboo imperiously replied: “They must all be pre-
sented to Mr. Seward, and receive him asa friend. He is a friend
of mankind; he shall see us just as we are, and see all that we do
—we will have no secrets from him.” This was intended as a
great compliment to Mr. Seward.
There was a sound of pattering feet, and a gentle rustling was
heard. It was followed by the entrance of eight little women, all
of whom were dressed in gauze of gold and various colors—only
gleaming jewels could be seen through their veils. They trembled
like so many aspens as they approached gracefully, lifted their slen-
der arms—almost covered with gold—and extended to us their little
nervous hands. The baboo was not yet content. He requested us
to raise their veils. We did so gently, and looked upon gazelle
eyes and pretty features, but the wearers were so abashed that, in
tenderness for them, we soon let the veils drop. In answer to our
compliments, they spoke not a word. The gentlemen now with-
drew.
Mr. Seward was then shown through seventy-five rooms, in-
cluding a family chapel—the furniture of all very meagre and
384 BRITISH INDIA.
plain, the stairs steep and narrow, and the corridors dark and
perplexing.
The women, being left alone with their visitors, now volun.
tarily communicated, through a lady interpreter, all the family
secrets: the number of wives each of the baboo’s sons had married
and lost; the number of children of each wife; and the number
and value of the jewels each possessed. The wife of the eldest son
presented her daughter—a bright and laughing maiden bedecked
with jewels—who, having attained the advanced age of eighteen
months, has already been mazricd to a little gentleman who also
was present, and who claims the experience of ten years. He has
been elected to the honor of this marriage because he is the pre.
sumptive head of the caste to which this family belongs. Accord.
ing to the custom of the country, he has been brought into the
family of his bride to be educated. There are eight pairs of such
prematurely-married people in this family, which consists of sev.
enty-five persons.
The windows of all the chambers of the zenana, or harem, are
darkened, and made secure with iron bars, as in a prison. The
widows, even more secluded than the wives, inhabit the meanest
and dingiest of the chambers. The women showed, with perfect
freedom, their sleeping-rooms, baths, and the contents of their
wardrobes. Eaci: woman has three garments. These being woven
in the shape required, there is no need of mantua-maker or milli-
ner; the only care bestowed on this property is to hang them up
and take them down. The care of the children is devolved on the
ayahs. As the wife neither sews, nor reads, nor writes, she has
absolutely no occupation but to talk with her companions of the
zenana ; and, as might perhaps be expected, domestic discords are
frequent. The guests (in the zenana) were then served with cakes,
comfits, and betel-nuts, the latter broken in small bits and folded
in silver-foil. The interview closed with the same ceremonies with
which we had been received, newly fanning the guests with pea-
cocks’ plumes, sprinkling them with rose-water, and perfuming the
hands with the attar.
The baboo, in his conversation with Mr. Seward, represented
that a ;
trymen
of upri
conflict:
a hope:
will ree
Mr. Sev
these pc
below, 1
describe
The yot
our feet
then dis
as conv
stinted |
believe
came aft
Gove
here to-
is short,
culty.
vicerega
us a little
to our de
our com
strand, a
mistake,
at last or
changed
around t
footman
derstood
faster “a
Mr. Jaco
made hi
} dark and
now volun-
the family
1ad married
the number
e eldest son
nm bedecked
of eighteen
an who also
rs. He has
eis the pre-
ys. Accord.
cht into the
pairs of such
sists of sev-
r harem, are
prison. The
the meanest
with perfect
nts of their
being woven
ker or milli-
ang them up
olved on the
ites, she has
snions of the
discords are
d with cakes,
ts and folded
emonies with
sts with pea-
perfuming the
, represented
SWINGING ROUND THE CIRCLE. 385
that a general discontent with British authority is felt by his coun-
trymen, but he left it quite clear that they have not the faintest idea
of uprising or of resistance. Helpless and listless, they follow the
conflicts of the Western nations, only for the purpose of obtaining
a hope—most unreasonable—that, amid the chances of war, India
will receive a new conqueror, either the United States or Russia.
Mr. Seward left the baboo without lending any encouragement to
these political expectations. He joined the party in the grand hall
below, when we were honored with the ceremonies twice before
described ; besides, a treat of champagne, ice, coffee, and the hookah.
The younger boys of the family now fell upon the fioor and kissed
our feet; with their fathers, they attended us to the gates, and
then dismissed us with such a shower of compliments and thanks
as convinced us that even the Spanish language of courtesy is
stinted and cold compared with Oriental flattery. If we are to
believe them, “they still weep for our return.” Eight bearers
came after us bringing a tray filled with confectionery.
Government House, March Tth—We took up our residence
here to-day. Although the distance from Mr. McAllister’s house
is short, the journey was long, and not made without some diffi-
culty. We had appointed to be here at five o’clock, and, under
viceregal leave, had directed the Bengalese coachman to come for
us a little before that hour. He had, however, become accustomed
to our daily habit of driving about the city, and did not understand
our command to bring us here. He drove us up and down the
strand, around the gardens, and through the city. Aware of his
mistake, we, from time to time, enjoined upon him our commands—
at last our entreaties—to drive directly to Government House. ‘Te
changed his course every time, but only to drive in some new circle
around the palace. We appealed in vain from the coachman to the
footman and to the postilions. But, all being Bengalese, they un-
derstood not a word, and so we went on, “swinging” faster and
faster “around the circle.” By a fortunate circumstance, we met
Mr. Jacobs, who, addressing the coachman in his own vernacular,
made him understand that it was the centre of the great circle that
386 BRITISd INDULA.
we desired to penetrate. An hour and a half having been spent
in these gyrations, we found at the door of Government House,
not Major Burne (who was to receive us), but a servant, charged to
conduct us to our apartments, and to explain that the secretary,
having waited until six o’clock, had gone to fulfil another engage-
ment.
Government House, which was built during the administration
of the Marquis of Wellesley, has dimensions perhaps one-fourth
less than the Capitol at Washington. It is enclosed, with its gar.
dens, by a high iron balustrade. Its walls are brick, covered with
stucco; the style, Italian. The arrangements and embellishments
are English, and display that peculiar patriotic pride which scems
to be of the same nature as the family pride of a distant or poor
relation in social life. We almost imagine ourselves British colo.
nists, living in the days of our ancestors, before the American
Revolution. The noble, arched gateway is ornamented with no
such modern and republican symbol as the “bird of freedom,”
with arrows and olive-branch in its claws. Nor does cornice or
architrave present any such mysterious legend as “ Z’ pluribus
unum.” Nor does tower or turret show any stars or stripes, or
any modern tricolored ensign. Instead of' all these, there are a lion
and a unicorn over the gateway, and they are as usual “ a-fighting
for the crown,” bearing on their necks the scroll with the daring
words “ Diew et mon droit.” The stately cross of St. George
flaunts from the palace-walls. Marquees and tents cover the plain,
surmounted with the same flag; and officers, soldiers, and ser-
vants, all are clothed in the gorgeous scarlet-and-gold uniform
which betokens British royal authority. A great gilded chair and
canopy, at the upper end of a great hall, give it the ambitious
name of “ Throne-Room.” The walls are covered with British
portraits—prominent among them those of the obstinate George
III. and Charlotte his faithful queen; the Karl of Chathain and
General Wolfe, Lord North, Lord Cornwallis, General Burgoyne,
Lord Clive, and Warren Hastings. The ceremonies and ctiquette
of this palace are copied from those of Buckingham Palace. The
person, stranger or otherwise, who desires or claims notice at court,
instead
the adj
if not, |
is subrr
in the f
in privs
guests a
the Cou
salute tl]
ner; co
viceroy
a loud 5
Then fo
room; a
party inc
Wea
tropics,
over the
under his
drab coll
piazzas,
let, fill tl
and bro
habit the
sist, agai
nests in ¢
in the cur
frames.
apartment
builders ]
day the u
its appoin
thief: flyi
article or ¢
birds have
who, he al
been spent
ent House,
, charged to
e secretary,
ther engage-
ministration
s one-fourth
with its gar-
covered with
bellishments
which seems
tant or poor
British colo-
he American
ited with no
of freedom,”
es cornice or
“ F pluribus
or stripes, or
ere are a lion
1 “ a-fighting
h the daring
f St. George
ver the plain,
iers, and ser-
gold uniform
ded chair and
the ambitious
with British
tinate George
Chathain and
ral Burgoyne,
and etiquette
Palace. The
hotice at court,
TROPICAL BIRDS. 387
instead of presenting letters or leaving cards, registers his name in
the adjutant’s book. If recognized, he is honored with audience ;
if not, nothing is said. In the morning a list of the invited guests
is submitted to each member of the family, and each guest residing
in the family, and he answers whether he dines with the party or
in private, or dines out. When the dinner-hour arrives, and the
guests are assembled in the throne-room standing, the viceroy and
the Countess of Mayo enter, each attended by an aide-de-camp, and
salute their guests individually. The band plays during the din-
ner; conversation at the table is subdued. Before the end, the
viceroy rises—and with him the whole party—and he proposes, in
a loud voice, the only sentiment of the evening: “The Queen.”
Then follows conversation, with amateur music, in the drawing-
room; at the end of which the viceregal hosts take leave of the
party individually and retire.
We are never able to forget, in-doors or out, that we are in the
tropics. The adjutant-bird, formal and pensive, stands sentinel
over the great gate. Resting on one leg, with his knowing head
under his wing, he often sleeps on his post. Jmmense ravens, with
drab collars and caps, are walking before and behind you on the
piazzas. Parrots, in variegated costumes of green, gold, and scar-
let, fill the trees; martins, in jet-black coats; and swallows, plain
and brown; twittering wrens, and thousands of slender minos, in-
habit the cornices and capitals. Not unfrequently the birds per-
sist, against all housewifely care and resistance, in building their
nests in “coignes of vantage ” found within the walls; sometimes
in the curtain-tenters ; sometimes on the tops of or behind picture-
frames. In the evening, we find the veranda-floor in front of ov~
apartments strewed with dry branches and twigs, which the bird-
builders have deposited there in mass for further use. The next
day the unwearied architects take up the material and bear it to
its appointed place on shelf or cornice. The raven is especially a
thief: flying in at the windows, he carries away any minute, bright
article or ornament left exposed. The steward assured us that the
birds have borrowed this naughty practice from the native servants,
who, he alleges, are universally addicted to petty larceny.
CHAPTER IV.
CALOUTTA (Continued).
The Maharajah of Putteeala.—Oricntal Magnificence—Kali Ghaut.—The Temple.—Hin.
doo Idols.—Kali.—Siva.— A Mohammedan Mostue.—The Reading of the Budget,—
Indian Finances,—The King of Oude—The Prince of Oude.
March 9th.—The fashionable promenade of Calcutta is the pub-
lic garden, which is named Eden. The name, however, is not bor-
rowed from paradise, as might be supposed, but was bestowed in
compliment to the Hon. Miss Eden, the accomplished sister of Earl
Godolphin Osborne, a former governor-general. We visited this
garden yesterday with Lady Mayo, at sunset, for evening begins at
sunset here. Brilliant gas-lights sparkling through the dark foliage
of mango, palm, and cypress trees, with music from a central
stand beneath them, lent their strong attractions. It was a gay
scene. We walked on the green lawns, and for an hour listened to
the music, surrounded by beautiful English ladies dressed from
boxes just out from London and Paris; happy children glad of
release from confinement of nurses and school-room, chasing each
other over the lawns; army-officers in full-dress for dinner or the
opera; stately baboos in white cambric; dusky Sepoy guards
in white-and-red uniforms; rajahs in jewelled turbans and gold-
embroidered robes; and, in the back-ground, parsees, in their fun-
nel hats, were seen in earnest converse. Mohammedans on their
knees, with faces toward Mecca, were repeating their prayers. Ilis
highness the Maharajah of Putteeala, of Northern India, was one
monn
ATCT T
| Y
i
SST
AH RET TT
A}
he Temple.—Hin-
of the Budget.—
ta is the pub-
er, is not bor-
| bestowed in
sister of Earl
e visited this
ning begins at
he dark foliage
om a central
Tt was a gay
our listened to
dressed from
ldren glad of
n, chasing each
dinner or the
Sepoy guards
ans and gold-
s, in their fun-
sedans on their
prayers. lis
India, was one
THE MAHARAJAH OF PUTTEEALA,
98 Grand Commander of the Star of Indian.
Sh eS RE jeer aS pe
390 BR:TISH INDIA.
of the immediate circle around Lady Mayo. His family is distin.
guished for loyalty to the British Government. His father rendered
good service during the mutiny.’ For these considerations, he has
recently been invested in great pomp with the order of the Star of
India. In acknowledgment of that high distinction, he gives to.
night a concert to Lord and Lady Mayo. He is a very athletic
man, appearing to be thirty years old, but is, in fact, only twenty
years. He speaks English imperfectly, and seems to have but 4
limited education. Mr. Seward asked him what were the produc.
tions of his estates? The maharajah answered: “I am not like
the people you see herein Calcutta. Iama prince. I have many
zemindars. I have power. I can hang the man if I like, and |
ean send anybody to jail for all his life.”
The “Star of India” is an order of knighthood which was pro
jected by Prince Albert, into which British subjects and natives
of India are alike elected, on the ground of distinguished service to
the British nation in India. They say that Prince Albert was
perplexed to find a motto which should be equally inoffensive to
Christians and heathens. He happily chose this: ‘“ Heaven’s light
our guide.”
March 10th.—The maharajah’s concert was given in a style of
Oriental magnificence at the town-hall, before an audience of twelve
hundred, all of whom the prince had invited. An illuminated
arch was raised above the porch of the building, and above it
blazed the “Star of India,” with all the effect which gas-jets and
reflectors of burnished silver could produce. The vaulted roof of
the building is supported by double rows of white Corinthian col
umns with corresponding pilasters. The ceiling and walls were
printed in delicate green; groups of rose-colored lamps were sus-
pended between the columns and pilasters, and the nave was light:
ea with transparencies designed to illustrate the greatness and
glory of Britain. Tho splendid combination of light and color
brought out in full relief the garlands and festoons of flowers which |
burdened the air with perfume. Sofas were arranged s0 as to
afford the guests full freedom of promenade and conversation in
the inte
cence, b
indepenc
of the ec
own proj
tions we
only ring
waist, ne
also a bhi
of six inc
needless 1
was the o
of Caleutt
Wew
of the Hi.
We founc
ures, whic
and of so
their vulg:
feet above
ing on th
above the
columns.
principal
tends bey¢
has no wi
sides, T
which on
scribed co
Thugs esp
be profane
the worshi
ity on the
Bramin cr
commonly
explaining
‘amily is distin.
father rendered
erations, he has
r of the Star of
on, he gives to-
a very athletic
act, only twenty
s to have but a
vere the produc.
“JT am not like
2. I have many
if I like, and |
1 which -was pro-
ects and natives
uished service to
ince Albert was
lly inoffensive to
“ Heaven’s light
ven in a style of
udience of twelve
An illuminated
ng, and above it
hich gas-jets and
e vaulted roof of
e Corinthian cd-
and walls were
lamps were sts:
he nave was light-
he greatness and
f light and color
3 of flowers which |
rranged 60 as to
d conversation in
KALI GHAUT, 391
the intervals of the music. The maharajah, with rcyal munifi-
cence, brought the entire operatic troupe upon the stage, while
independent bands of music were stationed at all tie approaches
of the edifice. The turbaned and decorated prince appeared in his
own proper regalia of gold and jewels, realizing the highest descrip-
tions we have ever read of Eastern gorgeousness. He. wore not
only rings without number on his fingers, a golden girdle at his
waist, necklaces of jewels, and “ropes of pearls” on his breast, but
also a blue-and-gold satin robe, which was broidered to the depth
of six inches with a solid mass of glittering precious stones. It is
needless to say that the musical performance was very good, yet it
was the ostentatious display which attended it that was the wonder
of Calcutta that night.
We went to-day in search of Kali Ghaut. It is the most famous
of the Hindoo temples here, and from it the city derives its name
We found it in a base suburb. It has three disconnected struct-
ures, Which, although they are built after the customary models,
and of solid materials, seem nevertheless mean, when seen with
their vulgar surroundings. ‘The floors of all are on one level, eight
feet above the ground, and are reached by stone steps. The build-
ing on the right hand is a circular one about fifteen feet high
above the floor, open all around, with a roof supported by Hindoo
columns. The central building is an oblong one. The third and
principal edifice is a square surmounted by a dome, which ex-
tends beyond the walls, and is supported by outside columns. It
has no windows ; light is admitted through small doors on three
sides. The building first described is the hall of sacrifice, into
which only Bramin priests are admitted. The building last ¢--
scribed contains the shrine of the goddess Kali, to whose service the
Thugs especially devoted themselves. Not even its threshold must
be profaned by the footstep of the vulgar. The central edifice is
the worshippers’, from which they pay their adoration to the divin-
ity on the right hand, and on the other witness the sacrifices. A
Bramin crowd dressed in clean white, many of them speaking un-
commonly good English, were assiduous, though not obtrusive, in
explaining the mysteries to us. As we went through the grounds,
icant osaicoas ienerenes
<ta & Oe
pat a =
ae ENG DTA TASS ORL A Tmt. SRG ID Hensel
i
-tuary, and disclosed to us through the dim light a wrought-iron op
BRITISH INDIA.
392
a native police sprang forth at every turn to protect us against any
injury or offence. We waited an hour for the priest who had the
keys. He came at last, arrayed in pure white—a tall man and dig.
nified, in every way seeming worthy to serve at the altar. With
much labor, he unfastened a massive padlock, and, turning its
heavy bolts backward, threw open a door on either side of the sane.
stone figure, of human proportions but scarcely of human shape,
The idol is black, has three glarirg red eyes, a broad golden tongue
tipped with black, which projects from a distended mouth down to
the waist, and is dripping with blood. The arms are large. The
left hand holds a giant’s head; the right hand, a sword with which
it has been severed—both crimsoned with blood. A necklace of
infants’ skulls graces the demon. Devout worshippers prostrated
themselves around us, and something like mumbled prayers were
heard as they beat their heads upon the pavement. We placed
some rupees in a vessel before us; these were thrown at the feet
of Kali, and the doors were quickly closed. This savage deity
called Kali is the wife of Siva, and is the author of all the evils
which beset the human race. Bullocks and goats are sacrificed,
Fire purifies the latter, and the offering is eaten by the priests;
the former, incapable of purification, are charitably given to pari-
ahs. The ground around the hall of sacrifice is rank with the odor
of putrefaction. One hundred and fifty Bramins and their families
live in and about this temple. They seem to be supported by con-
tributions of pilgrims, and by deprecatory offerings of merchants
who are engaging in business enterprises.
We went from the Kali Ghaut to a temple which is dedicated
to Siva. The divinity here is a black spherical stone, ten inches
in diameter, set on a concave stone of lighter color, in the centre
of the pavement. The temple was too sacred to be desecrated
by our feet. We were allowed only to look upon it through the J
open door. The attending priest threw the rupees upon the stone
god.
Walking from one temple to the other, we passed numerous J
idols. Some represent Juggernaut with a human face clongated
into an
grotesq u:
were ask.
most absi
meaning’
Wen
much for
he is ma
while to
mean 3 nc
tine child,
awe and r
Returt
marble me
central do
evening-p!
worshippe
forbidden -
ure and ws
of respect ¢
with the t4
The m¢
limest hor
of an antic
Post-oftice
March
England, t
to-day, in
of a consi
privileged
unlike that
the viceroy
finances, b;
ance, but
the speech
us against any
st who had the
1] man and dig-
.1e altar. With
nd, turning its
side of the sane-
wrought-iron or
f human shape.
1 golden tongue
mouth down to
are large. The
vord with which
A necklace of
ppers prostrated
ed prayers were
mt. We placed
rown at the feet
his savage deity
of all the evils
ts are sacrificed.
1 by the priests,
ly given to par:
nk with the odor
hnd their families
upported by con-
gs of merchants
iich is dedicated
stone, ten inches
lor, in the centre
to be desecrated
bn it through the i
bs upon the stone
passed numerous f
nv face clongated
THE “BLACK HOLE.” 3938
into an elephant’s trunk. Others represent Vishnu; others, of
grotesque shape, represent the children of Siva and Kali. If we
were asked which one of the Oriental superstitions seems to us the
most absurd, we should say it is that of the hideous Kali, the un-
meaning Siva, and their misshapen offspring.
We noticed that the Bramin attendants here value a god, not so
much for his character, as for the costliness of the material of which
he is made. They represented to us that it was not worth our
while to visit Siva at all, because temple and idol are cheap and
mean; nor did they conceal their disrespect for the dingy elephan-
tine children of Kali and Siva, but they expressed the profoundest
awe and reverence for golden Kali.
Returning to the city, we paused to admire a beautiful white
marble memorial-mosque, which has minarets at the angles, but no
central dome. The muezzin was solemnly calling the faithful to
The porch was covered with the sandals of the
worshippers, who had already entered the courts, which we were
forbidden to profane. Is it strange that this Mohammedan struct-
ure and worship, simple and severe, impressed us with sentiments
of respect and even devotion, when thus seen in immediate contrast
with the temples of the base Hindoo idols ?
The memory which lingers here of the “ Black Hole,” the sub-
limest horror in the history of India, is very faint. With the aid
ofan antiquarian, we found the site enclosed within the area of the
Post-office.
evening-prayer.
March 10th.—The reading of the “ Budget” is here, as it ig in
England, the great political transaction of the year. It took place
to-day, in the marble hall of Government House, in the presence
of a considerable assemblage. Mr. Seward was honored with a
privileged seat. The arrangement of the council-chamber was not
unlike that of the cabinet council at the White House, except that
the viceroy’s seat is raised on the dais. The exposition of the
finances, by Sir Richard Temple, was a lucid and elaborate perform-
ance, but it wanted the tone of calm dignity which distinguishes
the speeches of the British Chancellor of the Exchequer, or the
394
BRITISH INDIA.
report of the United States Secretary of the Treasury. The defer.
ence toward home rule, which was manifested in every paragraph,
was in strong contrast with the independent spirit of legislation on
financial questions in the American colonics before our Revolution.
In India, no councillor, nor any subject, questions the omninotence
of the Parliament of Great Britain. The debt of British India (in
round numbers) is one hundred million pounds sterling—five times
greater than the national debt of the United States before our ciyi|
war, and about one-fourth as large as the debt is at the present time,
The revenue is about fifty million pounds sterling. Only an in.
significant part is derived from customs, it being the policy of the
Ilome Government to encourage the consumption of British manu-
factures in the colonies. Eight million pounds sterling (net) is
obtained from the culture and sale of opium, on which drug the
Government makes an actual profit of one hundred per cent. Sal
monopoly brings in five million pounds; a land tax imposes the
severe exaction of one and a quarter per cent. on valuation. Nonc
of these revenues excite as much discontent as the tax of two anda
half per cent. on incomes, which is equally obnoxious to British
residents and native zemindars. That tax must be abandoned,
even at the cost of reduction of the military expenses. Railroad
enterprise in India is worthy of all admiration; although it was
begun only twenty years ago, there are now five thousand miles of
completed roads, and two hundred and fifty miles are added an-
nually. The Government guarantees an income of five per cent.
on the capital invested in railroads. They make a return thus far
of only two and one-half per cent. When we consider the vast
population and resources of India, there seems no reason to sup-
pose that railroads will be less productive than in Europe and the
United States.
After the council, the members asked Mr. Seward whether his
financial experience enabled him to make any suggestion for the
removal of the difficulties arising out of the income-tax and the
railroad subsidies. He answered: “ Your railroads will increase
the demand for forcign manufactures, an increase of customs will
enable you to dispense with the income-tax; the railroads, more-
over, Wi
thousan:
to muck
then be
the prov
All t
ers, are f
Earl Ma;
them all.
Mare
of Warre
the tragic
occasion {
descendar
British p:
sion, he v
sovercion
in Caleut
paired to
his invita
tices with
soldiery, 1
troops ga
received ¢
who anno
be his rep!
seen a han
to his char
with gold,
Oude is p
antiquated
reminder ,¢
fallen.”
The pr
ducted us
y. The defer-
ry paragraph,
legislation on
ur Revolution.
e omninotence
itish India (in
ng—five times
before our civil
e present time.
. Only an in-
e policy of the
. British manu-
terling (net) is
vhich drug the
per cent. Salt
ax imposes the
luation. None
ax of two anda
ious to British
be abandoned,
ses. tailroad
Ithough it was
ousand miles of
B are added an-
bf five per cent.
return thus far
bnsider the vast
» reason to sup-
Zurope and the
ard whether his
reostion for the
me-tax and the
ds will increase
of customs will
railroads, more-
KING OF OUDE'S SON. 395
over, will enable you to reduce your army of one hundred and fifty
thousand Sepoys, and your seventy-five thousand European troops,
to much smaller figures. Having made these economies, you will
then be ready to admit the natives to a limited representation in
the provincial councils.”
All the members of the Government, natives as well as foreign-
ers, are fitly-chosen, intelligent, able men. Mr. Seward pronounces
Earl Mayo the “hardest worker” as well as the most sagacious of
them all.
March 11th.—The majestic declamations of Burke, in the trial
of Warren Hastings, have made the civilized world familiar with
the tragic story of the kingdom of Oude. We may, hereafter, have
occasion to speak, not of the kingdom, but of the king. The last
descendant of the native king, who reigned at Lucknow under the
British protectorate, joined the mutiny in 1857. On its suppres-
sion, he was deprived of the kingdom, but was allowed to retain his
sovereign rank with a munificent pension, though obliged to reside
in Calcutta, under government surveillance. Yesterday, we re-
paired to his palace on the bank of the Hoogly, in compliance with
his invitation. The royal residence consists of twelve stai.cly edi-
fices with colonnades, which accommodate retainers, servants, and
soldiery, numbering in all ten thousand. A regiment of native
troops gave Mr. Seward a salute at the grand gate, and we were
received at the palace by the king’s eldest son, the heir-apparent,
who announced that his father, being very ill, had deputed him to
be his representative on the occasion of our visit. We have never
seen a handsomer youth, although he is swarthy. Dressed fully up
to his character, he wore flowing robes of blue velvet, embroidered
with gold, and his princely jewelled coronet. The titular King of
Oude is probably the only monarch in the world who wears such
antiquated head-gear as this. Doubtless, however, it is a pleasing
reminder .of the palmy state from which he has “fallen, fallen,
fallen.”
The prince, in a most amiable and communicative temper, con-
ducted us through the extensive flower-gardens, immense mena-
' SSS =
%, === =
—<—— ae
geries, ag
gine, hav
animals e
huge boa
skilfully «
the groun
and at ple
white fan,
aac in wl
of-paradis
as domest.
one hundi
any tenan
riums are
inhabitant
mense gre
bananas, a
den of an :
two hund
munificen
is gracelesg
The vic
relaxation
oany of lag
KING OF OUDE’S MENAGERIE. 397
geries, a8 well as aviaries and aquariums, neither of which, we ima-
gine, have their equal in any part of the world. An account of the
animals exhibited would be little less than a “catalogue.” We saw
huge boa-constrictors sleeping in their cages. The snake-charmer
skilfully drew the cobra de capello from its prison, stretched it on
the ground, and then with great dexterity seized it by the throat,
and at pleasure made it open its mouth and show the strong, sharp,
white fang, whose stroke is instant death, and beneath it the small
sac in which the fatal venom is secreted. The ostrich, the bird-
of-paradise, the pelican, the flamingo, the eagle, and the swan, are
as domesticated as if they had known no other home. We counted
one hundred species of the pigeon, nor can we recall the name of
any tenant of the air which is not represented there. The aqua-
riums are lakes, each covering an acre, and ten feet deep. Their
inhabitants of all kinds came to be fed from our hands. An im-
mense green tortoise was tempted to the shure by a bunch of
banau.as, and walked back seeming not at all oppressed by the bur-
den of an attendant, who stood on his back, and who weighs nearly
two hundred pounds. The English people here tell us that the
munificent King of Oude is treacherous, and that his handsome son
isgraceless. But when has conqueror confided in his prisoner ?
The viceroy has gone into the country for his customary weekly
relaxation of boar-hunting. We drive with Lady Mayo and a com-
oany of ladies and gentlemen, this evening, to Barrackpore.
CHAPTER V.
BARRACKPORE AND SERAMPORE.
Barrackpore Park and its Beauties.—Magnificent Trees.—The Menagerie—The Lion.
pr "8 Whelps.—Serampore.—Its Missionaries and Mission-Schools.—Return from Bar
eal rackpore,—Fort William.—Tbe Woman’s Union Missionary Society and its Schools
wo ;
ig ¥ e. e ,
te Barvackpore Park, March 12th.—This viceregal country resi.
wy
‘? dence stands on a curve of the Hoogly, sixteen miles north of Cal-
% e ° eye .
ie cutta. Besides the palace, there is also a large military station.
‘. On the opposite bank of the river is Serempore, originally a Danish
possession, but now British, and incorporated with Barrackpore.
. It is a relief to escape for a day from the sights and excitements
of the capital. Vegetation is so luxuriant in India that wild beasts
maintain their natural liberty in the midst of the densest human
population. Jus, °s the morning dawned the shrieks of these
vicious beasts ceased, and the notes of the whippoorwill came in
their place, as distinct and as piteous as when heard on the banks
of the Potomac. But we are before our story. The hall in which
we were received last night was far more magnificent than any we
had ever before entered. Its circumference one thousand feet, its
floor a green lawn, its roof the dense, dark fern-like foliage of the
banyan-tree, its brown columns and arches, the trunks which have
grown from the tendrils that dropped from the parent tree, and
took root in the ground. Only Virgil could celebrate so magnif-
cent a shade:
~~
— ce
‘“‘Tityre tu patulay recubans sub tegmine fagi.”
six horses
OF
tached |
race, is
which, 1
kitten i
quaintal
tellow-p
their ne
the mer
“night |
the nois«
On ¢t
crossed t
known i
missional
van missi
under th
British F
jurisdicti
pious and
as the pr
mentione
the quain
ant collat
educate
and arith}
sion into
became o
answered
place in y
men secu
to natives
Marek
with Lad
ragerie.—The Lion.
-Return from Bar.
ety and its Schools
ul country resi:
3 north of Cal-
ilitary station.
inally a Danish
3arrackpore.
and excitements
that wild beasts
densest human
hrieks of these
borwill came in
d on the banks
he hall in which
nt than any we
rousand feet, its
e foliage of the
nks which have
parent tree, and
rate so magnifi-
SERAMPORE MISSIONS. 309
Of course, there is a menagerie, though it is a small one, at-
tached to the palace. The Bengal tiger, the noblest of the feline
race, is shown here with special pride. We saw a superb fellow,
which, now fully grown and quite savage, was one year ago a pet
kitten in the nursery. We have renewed here the pleasant ac-
quaintances which we formed with the lion-whelps who were our
fellow-passengers on the Australian. They are very restless in
their new quarters. We find a novelty far more interesting than
the menagerie. It is a troop of wild jackals, which make the
“night hideous” with their howlings. For hours, we thought that
the noise they made was that of an insurrection or a riot.
On the invitation of the editor of Zhe Piriend of India, we
crossed the river this morning and visited Serampore. It is well
known in the United States as the place where the three devoted
missionaries, Marshman, Carey, and Ward, founded the first Ameri-
can mission in India. They chose the site because it was then
under the friendly flag of Denmark, while the regulations of the
British East India Company torbade Christian missions within its
jurisdiction. Serampore is also the scene of the first labors of the
pious and indefatigable Judson. The scientific institutions as well
as the press and libraries which the earnest men, whom we have
mentioned, established, are still flourishing, while the very air of
the quaint place seems redolent of their memories. After a pleas-
ant collation, we examined these institutions. The missionaries
educate one hundred and fifty children here in reading, writing,
and arithmetic; and fifty more up to the qualifications for admis-
sion into: the University of Calcutta. Myr. Seward asked what
became of the youths who are thus educated4 The missionaries
answered that “the highest ambition of a Hindoo youth is a
place in which he can wear a ‘pen behind his ear.’” The young
men secure the small places under the Government which are open
to natives.
Very few of them become or remain Christians.
March 13th.—We returned from Barrackpore this morning,
with Lady Mayo and a party of twelve, in the “ drag,” drawn by
six horses, directed by their postilions, and attended by a mounted
400 BRITISH INDIA.
escort. The roads were fine, the morning exhuarating. We
passed an elephant bearing a load of hay, the first of those animals
we have seen in service. Mr. Seward passed the morning in a
survey of Fort William. Built as a defence for the first British
factory in Calcutta, and identified with all the great events in the
history of the conquest, it still gives the official name to the seat of
the government. But Fort William, and all that Mr. Seward saw
in it, belongs to the past. In his absence the ladies enjoyed the
pleasure of studying a more modern and useful institution.
It is the proud distinction of the United States that our coun-
trywomen have designed and brought into execution a practical
plan for the amelioration of society in India. Caste, in that coun-
try, has its moral and civil as well as its theological code. Its laws
are paramount to all laws and all institutions of government. It
may be said of caste, just as truly as it was said of the laws of
Moses, that “the letter killeth, the spirit giveth life.’ Caste hin.
dered and defeated two attempted reformations in India before the
country became known to 4uropeans—Buddhism and Mohamme-
danism. It is caste, the “letter” of the Hindoo law, that hinders
Christianity, and seems to render the introduction of all Western
civilization impossible. Caste has effected all these evils and per-
petuates them through the degradation of women. Christianity
and Western civilization can only be established through the res
toration of woman here as elsewhere to her just and lawful sphere.
This restoration is just what “the Woman’s Union Missionary
Society of America for Heathen Lands” is doing through the insti-
tutior they have established at Caleutta and its branches in the
provinces, called the “ Zenana Mission.” We accompanied Miss
Brittan, the superintendent of this institution, in her visitation of
many of the zenanas, to which, by her unremitting zeal, assiduity,
and gentleness, she has gained access. These families were en-
erally rich, like that of the baboo, which we have described. Some
of them, however, are wretched and squalid. Even in these, the
women, like those in the rich zenanas, are timid, gentle, loving
creatures, and all alike are painfully desirous of instruction. ‘The
institution employs in Calcutta twelve American women as teacli-
ers.
becom
lished
girls fe
native
Wives ¢
in the >
is pleas
contide
We {
Society of
knowledg
rating. We
hose animals
norning in a
> first British
events in the
to the seat of
+, Seward saw
s enjoyed the
ition.
hat our coun-
on a practical
in that coun-
ode. Its laws
vernment. It
yf the laws of
.? Caste hin-
idia before the
nd Mohamme-
y, that hinders
of all Western
evils and per-
Christianity
rough the res
lawful sphere.
ion Missionary
rough the insti-
branches in the
ompanied Miss
er visitation of
zeal, assiduity,
ilies were gecn-
scribed, Some
mn in these, the
gentle, loving
struction. ‘The
omen as teach
BARRACKPORE. 401
ers. ‘They have already instructed sixty native women, who have
become assistant teachers. They have during the same time estab-
lished an asylum where they support and train twenty additional
girls for teachers. Miss Brittan counts seven hundred and fifty
native women, who have been taught and qualified to become the
wives of Hindoo youths who are prepared tor official employment
in the universities and schools established by the Government. It
is pleasant to record that this noblest of charities enjoys the entire
contidence and favor of Karl Mayo.’
‘We found on our return to the United States that the “ Woman’s Union Missionary
Soviety of America” had fully adopted the idea of the importance of connecting the
knowledge of medicine with the qualification of teacher.
BABRACKPORK,
Courtesy of the East India Railway Company.—Unattractive Scenery.—The Scenerr
— =
CHAPTER VI.
FROM CALCUTTA TO BENARES.
improves.—Aspect of the Country and the People.—A stop at Patna.—A ‘Tiger
Hunter.—The Cultivation of the Poppy.—The Maharajah of Benares.—A Night
on the Ganges.—aA Brilliant Display.—Glory Hallelujah.—A Compliment to Mr.
Seward.
Benares, March 15th.—We left Government House, Calcutta,
on tho 18th, in the evening, and, with the aid of friends, made
our way through a mixed and garrulous crowd which gathered at
the wharf. We crossed the Hoogly in a capacious steam ferry-
boat, and took possession of a car which had been furnished us,
by the East India Railway Company, for our exclusive use while
in the country. We attach it to, or detach it from, the train at
our pleasure. It consists of two apartments, with a bath-room,
Our Calcutta friends furnished us with a full supply of Boston ice.
The night was dark. When we awoke in the morning, w:
looked out upon an unattractive plain, broken by ledges of rocks.
The road was bordered with shallow tanks, filled with muddy water
collected during the last rainy season, and frequent brick-kilns built
to supply the material for the railway structures. An occasional
herd of small lean cattle, sheep, and goats, with a tattered or naked
attendant, was seen upon the scanty soil nearly covered with
stunted trees and shrubs. A few mean farm-houses and wretched
We thought India a sorry contrast to Japan
villages were visible.
and Ja
Pei-ho.
miles g
travers}
Scarcel
aspect ¢
tion ga
without
with ri
POPPY
cereals,
goes—t]
a perfurr
by hedg
herds of
ranging
like the
hardy, g
The flov
height o
May.
which st
lows, an
revealed
The
the road
So also
profusio
bangles.
fresh bes
yellow-a
martins
ate clou
stately a
serves a
We
ery.—The Scenerr
t Patna.—A Tiger
Benares.—A Night
Yompliment to Mr.
ouse, Calcutta,
friends, made
ich gathered at
1s steam ferry-
furnished us,
sive use while
pm, the train at
1 a bath-room.
of Boston ice.
e morning, WwW:
ledges of rocks.
th muddy water
brick-kilns built
An occasional
ittered or naked
y .covered with
leg and wretched
ontrast to Japan
BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY. 403
and Java, and even less cheerful than the sandy plain of the dismal
Pci-ho. [Referring to the map, we found that we were a hundred
miles south of the Ganges, and that the dreary region we were
traversing is a spur of the mountain-border of the great river-basin.
Scarcely had we time to express our surprise at the uninviting
aspect of the country before the rocky ledges and stunted vegeta-
tion gave way to scenes of fertility and beauty—which continued
without interruption during the day. Endless ficlds, some yellow
with ripening rice, some white with the strewed Icaves of the
poppy, and some green with growing wheat, millet, and other
cereals, alternate with orchards of bananas, tamarinds, and man-
goes—the latter trees just now blooming and filling the air with
a perfume sweet as that of the acacia. The plantations are divided
by hedges of richly-flowering cactus. In other fields are large
herds of cattle, and goats, and flocks of sheep, all fat and sleek, and
ranging under cocoa-nut trees, scattered through the landscape
like the oaks in Kentucky and California. The palma-Christi, a
hardy, graceful shrub, needing little irrigation, grows luxuriantly.
The flower-stalk of the “century-plant” has already reached the
height of ten feet, and is preparing to spread its gorgeous petals in
May. As we approached, we saw, in the midst of this luxuriance,
which surpasses that of the prairies of Java, winding rows of wil-
lows, and occasionally a mast towering over them. Another curve
revealed to us the Ganges.
The groups of slender men and children whom we passed by
the roadside and in the fields were gayly and gracefully attired.
So also were the few women whom we saw. They had a great
profusion of silver ornaments, ear-rings, nose-rings, bracelets and
bangles. All Nature seemed to feel new animation and display
fresh beauty in the presence of the Ganges. (Green parrots with
yellow-and-red heads perch on the telegraph-wires, as swallows and
martins do in our own country; flocks of flamingoes make a rose-
ate cloud as they fly over our heads; the solemn stork and the
stately acjutant march in regiments through the copses and pre-
serves around us.
We made one stop, during the day, at Patna. It is a large and
i
ea
404 BRITISH INDIA.
an old Hindoo city, memorable in the history of British conquest
as the scene of the perfidious covenant of the “Three Seals;” tha;
infamous transaction which aroused the people of England from
their criminal lethargy to a contemplation of the atrocities practised
by the East India Company. While there, we made a survey of
the eighteen cars which constituted our railway-train. Only one
of these was devoted to Europeans, the others were fully freighted
with natives; never less than thirty, sometimes fifty, crowded into
acar. We met there our countryman Mr. Eldridge, who was just
returning to Caleutta from a famous tiger-hunt in the north, in
which he shot a tiger which had already laid hold of the haunch of
the elephant he was riding. Patna, like all the towns and villages
on our road, shows a division of the population between the faith
of the Bramins and that of the Arabian prophet. The Hindoo
temple, although it has a greater number of worshippers, is always
eclipsed in magnificence by the mosque.
The government officer, charged with the superintendence of
the opium-production, called upon us at Patna. The opium-poppy
bears a smal. white flower instead of the large bright petals known
in our gardens. The manufacture is simple: early in the morning,
an attendant (usually a woman) goes through the poppy-field, strik-
‘ry each capsule with an instrument of many blades like a cupping.
xnife—the milky-juice exudes, dries, and blackens, under the burn-
inv heat of the sun ; it is gathered in the evening by scraping the
plant with a knife. It is already opium. The narcotic strength
of the juice varies in different plants—owing to a difference in
the vigor of the plant, or to the cirenmstances favorable or
unfavorable to the extraction of the juice. Some plants yield
only titty per cent. of the drug; others, eighty or ninety per cent.
The weak and the strong products are mixed so as to obtain a uni-
form strength of seventy-five per cent. The liquid which remains
after the mixture is made is again exposed to the sun. When the
mass, thus mixed, has obtained a consistency for manipulation, it is
divided into small portions, each of which is enclosed in a single
mango-leat. It is then rolled by hand until the leaf is entirely in-
arporated into the mass, and the opium comes out dry in the
shape of
opium of
Wes
vation of
Arriy
(ranges, »
trict of I
invite us td
called “the
days, was
journey o
severe here
‘native got
a8 a night
bearing sily
and white, 3
itish conquest
> Seals;”? that
England from
cities practised
de a survey of
in. Only one
fully freighted
, crowded into
2, who was just
a the north, in
* the haunch of
mns and villages
tween the faith
. The Hindoo
ppers, is always
erintendence of
he opium-poppy
ht petals known
in the morning,
oppy-field, strik-
5 like a cupping
under the burn-
by scraping the
arcotic strength
a difference in
es favorable or
me plants yield
ninety per cent.
, to obtain a uni-
d which remains
sun. When the
anipulation, it is
sed in a single
af is entirely in-
out dry in the
MAHARAJAH OF BENARES. 405
shape of a round ball.
opium of commerce.
One acre of poppy yields five pounds of the
We saw indigo-fields on every side, but the season for the culti-
vation of that plant is past. ”
Arriving at the station, Mogul Serai, on the south bank of the
Ganges, we were met by the government commissioner of the dis-
trict of Benares. He was charged by the Maharajah of Benares to
MAHARAJAI OF BENARES,
invite us to an entertainment on the river in honor of the festival
called “the Holy,” which, after having been continued for several
days, was to come to a close that night.
A continuous railroad-
journey of twenty-two hours, fatiguing everywhere, is doubly
severe here ; but how could we decline a compliment from so high
anative source, or how forego an occasion so novel and interesting
isa night on the Ganges ¢
Two officers of the prince’s household,
bearing silver maces six feet long, with twenty servants in scarlet
and white, met us on the river-bank and placed us in cushioned
by
27
406 BRITISH INDIA,
chairs, under a gay canopy, on the deck of a graceful yacht. We
floated leisurely downward with the current. The first part of the
voyage had no special interest. The night was dark, and the din
lights around us gave us only spectral glimpses of the terraced
banks. When, however, we had advanced a mile, we saw, on our
right, at the river’s edge, the blazing, crackling flames of seeming
bonfires. The portion of the banks thus illuminated seemed to
rise to the height of a hundred feet, and were thickly crowded with
massive structures; and, over all these, the gleaming dome and
minarets of Aurengzebe, the great mosque of the city. What was
our surprise to find that the fires, which we had supposed kindled
for a temporary illumination, were funeral-fires! Ghauts are built
on the banks for the sole purpose of cremation. The spectacle
turned our thoughts, for the moment, upon the strange process of
disposing of the remains of the dead. “ What,” we inquired, “js
done vith the ashes which remain from the fires?” “ They scatter
them on the bosom of the sacred river.”
At this point we entered a crowd of brilliantly-illuminated and
gayly-decorated barges, so dense that it was not without difficulty
that we made our way through it to the station assigned us, near
the maharajah’s barge, from which a calcium-light flashed an in.
tense and dazzling splendor over the entire city. On either side of
this magnificent barge was another one, equally gorgeous; the one
containing the Maharajah of Visianagram, the other, the Maharajal
of Puttceala. These dignitaries were guests. The barges of the
three princes were lashed together, and a grand Oriental pavilion
extended over them. All the optical effect that can be obtained
by fanciful naval designs, brilliant light, and variegated drapery, |
by moving crowds and splendid costumes, reflected by mirrors,
crystals, and gold, was preduced here; while the senses were rav:
ished by the perfume of burning incense and tropical flowers
Though dazzled by cross-lights, and bewildered by the indescriba-
ble glitter, we passed, under safe guidance, from our own barge to
that of the Maharajah of Benares. Under the same conduct we
passed through successive chambers, each varying in enchantment
from the others, until we reached the curtained and festooned cen
tral sale
gushed ¢
sherbets
of fruits.
gauzy att
dances to
It ma
interval ¢
“Glory 1
our ears.
Union ar
part of th
of our pri
of the Ga:
of those w
‘ul yacht. We
first part of the
rx, and the dim
of the terraced
we saw, On our
mes of seeming
ated seemed to
ly crowded with
ming dome and
city. What was
supposed kindled
Ghauts are built
. The spectacle
range process of
we inquired, “is
«They scatter
y-illuminated and
without difficulty
assigned us, near
ht flashed an in-
On either side of
porgeous ; the one
er, the Maharajah
he barges of the
Oriental pavilion
t can be obtained
riegated drapery,
ected by miror,
e senses were Nv:
1 tropical flowers
by the indescriba-
our own barge to
same conduct We
g in enchantment
and festoonell cet
GLORY HALLELUJAH. 407
tral saloon, appropriated to guests. Here rose-water and neroli
gushed over us from silver and crystal fountains; champagne and
‘ 5 ets 8 7 ] 7 ° . ; > : ‘ boas °
da be park ed in golden vases; buffets groaned with the weight
of fruits, confectionery, and ices; while beautiful nautch girls in
gauzy attire performed their most sacred and celebrated songs and
dances to their strange music.
It may be imagin re wer ri i
| y gined we were filled with emotion, when, in an
interval of this elaborate Asiatic exhibition, the solemn measure ot
“Glory Hallelujah” from a full European orchestra burst upon
our ears. The performance of this great marching-anthem of the
- ‘
Union army in the late war was a thoughtful recognition, on the
part of the maharajah, of Mr. Seward’s presence. We took leave
of our princely entertainers at twelve o’clock, leaving the pageant
f the Ganges to Juring the w i j
if g go on during the whole night for the enjoyment
of those who, unlike ourselves, had strength enough to endure it
NAUTCH GIRLS,
&
LP ee am =
= @ ge me
CHAPTER VII.
BENARES.
The Sacred City of the Hindoos.—The Cradle of Buddhism.—Sarnath.—Remarkable
Towers.—The Holy River.—The Ghauts.—Singular Architecture.—The Mosques
and their Minarets.—A Picturesque Scene on the River-Bank.—Siva and Doorga—
Manufacture of Idols.:—Kincob.—Magnificence of Benares.
March 16th.—Our experience here in the sacred city of the
Hindoos is like that of the visitor at Jerusalem. There he expects
to find most prominent the monuments of the Jews. Here we
expect to find most prominent the monuments of the Hindoos. At
Jerusalem, the monument which first attracts attention is not the
Temple of Solomon, but the Mosque of Omar; and here, the object
which first attracts our attention is not a temple of Vishnu, but,
Sarnath, a suburb of the city, the cradle of Buddhism. Buddha,
according to the traditions, was a prince. He renounced royal
state, wealth, family, friends, every thing, and repaired to Sarnath,
Here in seclusion, and in the practice of severest asceticism, he con-
tinued through five years; and it resulted in his conviction that he Jj,
had become perfectly incarnate of the Supreme God; perfectly pur-
fied ; the delegated savior of his nation und of mankind. Here, |
his teachings began nearly twenty-four hundred years ago; hence, MP
according to the faith of his disciples, the light of divine truth, My. |.
which he dispenses, has radiated through the East, until it has ex- |
erted its saving influence over one-fourth of the human race, and it
is to continue to radiate until it shall pervade the earth. But the ii
fortunes of Buddhism in the region where it originated have not 7
al
i
| | i
Sarnath.—Remarkable
ecture.—The Mosques
.—Siva and Doorga—
THE GANGES.
vered city of the
There he expects
Jews. Here we
the Hindoos. At
ention is not the
1d here, the object
e of Vishnu, but,
Hdhism. Buddha,
ad
1
BENARES FRO
renounced royal
aired to Sarnath,
asceticism, he con-
conviction that he
od; perfectly pur:
mankind. Here,
years ago ; hence,
t of divine truth,
st, until it has ex:
human race, and it
he earth. But the
riginated have not
410 BRITISH INDIA,
been unlike those of Christianity. While the Christian religion
is extended to the ends of the earth, a foreign and hated Worship
prevails in Palestine. So, while Buddha remains incarnate, not jy,
Sarnath, but in Thibet, and thence dispenses the divine truth,
throughout the vast regions of Tartary, China and Japan, Ceylon
and the Oriental Archipelago, his system has scarcely a foothold jn
the province where it originated. Sarnath is eight miles distant
from Benares. The large plain, strewed with ruins, is the regoy;
GREAT BUDDHIST TOWER AT SARNATH.
of innumerable bands of pilgrims, who cover its broken shrines
with garlands, and bedew its sands with tears. We tried, quite
ineffectually, to learn the history of the only two monuments which
retain something of their ancient shape and original proportions.
One of these is a conical tower, which rises in the centre of a well:
defined area, two-thirds of a mile in circuit. The tower has a
circumference of ninety-two feet at the base, and rises to a height
of one hundred and ten feet. What is extraordinary is, that this
vast tow
low, sub
of solid
Upon th
stone.
solid ma:
ing it by
stone sto
nally, it
ascertain
the struc
surmoun
jecting f
Each pro
f
size stat
with the
often in
BUDDHIST TOWER OF SARNATH. +11
hwsa¢se soli
hristian religion vast tower is solid, without chambers or internal passages, except a
d hated worship low, subterranean one. It has a basement-story, twenty feet high
ait hot in of solid brick, ten feet of which is below the level of the lath,
Siemon f Sos sentra Tasteage inex te orks
| ; pper layers, this story is a
ely a foothold in solid mass, each individual block being fastened to the one adjoin-
hit miles distant ing it by iron clamps. The part of the tower which is above the
ins, is the resort stone story, last mentioned, is built entirely of large bricks. Orrigi-
nally, it had a veneering or outer covering, but it is difficult to
ascertain whether it was of stone, stucco, or cement. The apex of
the structure, ten feet in diameter, bears some traces of a statue
surmounted by an umbrella. The large stone story has eight pro-
jecting faces, divided from each other by a panel fifteen feet wide.
Each projecting face has a large, deep niche, from which some life-
ts broken shrines
We tried, quite
monuments which
RINRTLTNLH TATE
ginal proportions
p centre of a well:
CABVING ON BUDDHIST TOWER AT SARNATH,
The tower nae a size statue has long since disappeared. Imagination replaces these
p TRESE toa height with the figure of Buddha and his disciples, as we saw them so
inary is, that this often in China and Japan, wit hands raised before their breasts,
41y BRITISH INDIA,
heads bent forward, and gazing at the soles of their feet. Several
of these projecting faces are finely ornamented with wreaths of
lotus—sometimes the plant winds as a vine with birds and dimin.
utive human figures resting on its tendrils. In some places, jt
shows the tender leaf and bud; in others, the open flower of the
lotus. The carving of some of these wreaths is unfinished-—an jp.
dication that the great structure was never completed. We con-
cluded that this curious tower was projected and raised as a monv-
ment of Buddha’s reform, but abandoned before completion, when
the religion was expelled from the country. We have alluded to
another ruin—this is a solid, circular brick mound, seventy-four
feet high, with an octagonal cupola twenty-four feet high. The
cupola has its history, but not the mound. The former bears an
inscription which recites that the sovereign of the cuuntry as.
cended the mound in the year 51.
March 1%it.—We have to-day viewed Benares, not, as on our
first night, under an artificial illumination, but under the light of
an equinoctial sun. We passed down the river in the same yacht
which floated us at the grand festival.
Long before John baptized in the Jordan, the Asiatics had con-
ceived the beautiful idea that certain rivers are holy, and that their
waters have the power of “cleansing from all sin.” The Ganges
is, as it always has been, that river of the Hindoos. They must
come hither as pilgrims from the most distant regions, at least once
in a lifetime, and even once a year, if they can. They come
here, moreover, if they can, to die; because, to die in the holy city,
secures a direct entrance into paradise. Native princes, successful
baboos, and rich zemindars, please the Bramin priests and the peo-
ple, and think also that they please the gods, by erecting majestic
temples and buildings, costly marble ghauts for the use of the pil-
grims as well as burning ghauts. To'reach these ghauts, the high,
steep banks of the river, for miles in length, are terraced with per-
fect stone steps. The temples rise to the height of five, six, seven,
eight, nine stories. They are built of marble and freestone,
pierced with windows of every conceivable graceful shape, and are
| and appro
extrava,
niches,
which a
with its
ples, len
severe fi
of the H
river-bat
in group
cases, be
small, of
phant se
times ws
the hums
were plu
of fancift
fishes. J
the water
funeral-fi
be exting
die are b
yacht, we
They are
Chinese ¢@
is that of
uid reprd
yold. Si
Calcutta.
eoress are
Votaries, W
flowers, ay
to receive
fane hand
cows, with
wander at
feet. Several
th wreaths of
‘ds and dimin-
some places, it
. flower of the
inished-—an in-
sated. We con-
ised as & monu-
mpletion, when
have alluded to
d, seventy-four
eet high. The
former bears an
the country as-
, not, as on our
der the light of
the same yacht
A siatics had con-
ty, and that their
.”’ The Ganges
os. They must
ns, at least once
n. They come
in the holy city,
inces, successful
sts and the peo-
recting majestic
e use of the pil-
rhauts, the high,
Lrraced with per:
five, six, seven,
and freestone,
1 shape, and are
A PICTURESQUE SCENE, 413
extravagantly ornamented with colonnades, corridors, balconies,
niches, large and small domes, towers, pavilions, and pinnacles,
which are set off with gilding and bright colors, The mosque,
with its tapering minarets, occasionally interjected among the tem-
ples, lends a pleasing relief to the Hindoo architecture, while its
severe form and outlines seem to reprove the prolific imagination
of the Hindoos. A highly-picturesque scene presented itself on the
river-bank. Citizens, pilgrims, men, women, and children—singly,
in groups, and in throngs—are ascending and-descending the stair-
cases, bearing on their heads bronze urns and vases, large and
small, of iorms as graceful as the Etruscan. Even the stately ele-
phant seems to have adopted the mystic faith, for we saw him many
times walk down the staircase, which had been nicely adapted to
the human footstep, fill his trunk, and solemnly return. Pilgrims
were plunging into the water from platforms and boats and barges
of fanciful construction, some in the shape of peacocks, swans, and
fishes. All the devotees dress in snow-white robes as they leave
the water, to give effect to the idea that immersion purifies. The
funeral-fires of the previous night are still blazing. How can they
be extinguished? All that are in the city must die, and all that
lie are brought here. Having passed the entire river-front in the
yacht, we dismissed it and returned through the streets of the city.
They are close and narrow, but well paved, and, compared with the
Chinese cities, excepting Canton, they are clean. The chief temple
is that of Siva, the representative of the principle of destruction
wid reproduction. The dome and the towers are of burnished
yold, Siva is the same round, black stone set in the floor as at
Calcutta. Far greater reverence is paid to him here. Access and
egress are made almost impossible by the multitude of pilgrims and
votaries, who come into the temples laden with perfumes, fruits,
flowers, and urns of holy water. Priests receive these oblations
and appropriate them as perquisites, nor did the holy men disdain
to receive some bright silver rupees from our unworthy and pro-
fane hands. Three small, gentle, and very pretty sacred white
cows, with wreaths of orange-flowers and roses around their necks,
wander at pleasure in the holiest recesses of the temple, among
¥ bs v—
MAA
= CF
et
PS Fam A be ress.
the w
flower:
Bu
compa)
to Doo
honore
tion, tl
their c
sizes,
“racing
laughin
from ba
Edit
and ma
tenants
screens,
who, un
secured
durance
The sho
made ar
Ephesus
images 0
selves b
white, id
wood, st
We
exquisite
the pure
dars, woy
pattern
displays
but their
tive rule
their indd
continue
psy A Be oss.
~
Pa ee ee
KINCOB BROCADE. 415
the worshippers, who feed them with rose-leaves and_lotus-
flowers.
But what a poor apology for human devotion is that of Siva
compared with the exhibition of that sentiment which is presented
to Doorga! At the temple of the former it is a black stone that is
honored; at that of the Doorga jt is the living, moving animal crea-
tion, the monkey. Moreover, these monkeys seem to appreciate
their celestial privileges and honors. They are of all sorts and
sizes. We saw them by the thousand gambolling in the courts,
“racing and chasing” through the corridors, and mischievously
laughing upon the worshippers below from columns and cornices,
from balustrades and balconies.
Edifices of all sorts, even the dwelling-houses, are stupendous
and massive. The basements are used for mechanics and other
tenants of low degree. The upper stories, guarded by bars and
screens, are the gorgeous zenanas ; fit family dwellings for a people
who, unanimously thinking that the virtue of woman can only be
secured by her imprisonment, magnanimously try to relieve that
durance by extravagant indulgences of luxury and ostentation.
The shops are seldom more than eight feet square. The articles
made are chiefly ornaments and religious tokens. As, in ancient
Ephesus, the people principally supported themselves by making
images of Diana, so the people of Benares largely support them-
selves by the manufacture of idols—idols great, idols small, idols
white, idols black, idols red, idols yellow, idols of bronze, iron,
wood, stone, porcelain, and glass.
We visited the warehouse of the kincob—a brocade, the most
exquisite of fibrous fabrics; its materials, the richest of silk and
the purest of gold, worn by the native princes, baboos, and zemin-
dars, woven in patterns five yards long and one yard wide. A
pattern never costs less than three hundred dollars. The merchant
displays in a book the names of a few English ladies as customers,
but their purchases were very small. Is it not strange that the na-
tive rulers of India, after disasters which have deprived them of
their independence and universally impoverished if not ruined them,
continue to dress in costumes which no Western state of wealth
&
a
§
!
2 x
a
5
a
&»
% .
+e
416 BRITISH INDIA.
can command? The merchant in the East, everywhere, is amiable
and polite. The vendor of kincob received us, who merely came
to look at his wares, with bouquets and garlands when we came, and
showered us with rose-water when we departed.
Superstition counts the population of Benares by the million,
and its sacred edifices by the thousand. The real population is one
hundred and fifty thousand, and it contains between three and four
hundred temples. So much of the history of Benares as we have
not related was sublimely spoken, by Burke in his account of the
cruelty of Warren Hastings to the Maharajah Cheyte Sing, ances.
tor of our host. What we have left unsaid of the incomparable
magnificence of the city is told by Macaulay in his essay on War.
ren Hastings.
TEMPLES AT BENARES,
tor aay
Perret ctpeemen ter tery ma ong
er ne
|
oo.
py
L
aa
iy seo
iain
:
(uit
witty!
Ty
ere, is amiable
o merely came
n we came, and
by the million,
ypulation is one
three and four
res as we have
account of the
rte Sing, ances-
e incomparable
; essay on War.
HN
olin
Hi
Salt
- nh
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QUEEN’S COLLEGE, BENARES.
CHAPTER VIII.
ALLAHABAD, LUCKNOW, AND AGRA.
Allahabad, the City of God.—Cawnpore.—Lucknow, th. Capital of Oude.—Extent of the
Cozntry.—Arrival at Agran—A Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empire.—
Akbar the Great.—His Vast Architectural Works.—The Pearl Mosque.—Futtehpore
Sikra.—Its Great Wall.—The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.—The Panch Mahal.—Ak.
bar’s Tomb.—His Wealth.—His Horses and his Elephants.—Weighing his Presents,
March 18th.— Allahabad (the city of God), once a Mohamme
dan town, has now relapsed to the religion of Bramah. It stands
on the Jumna, just above its confluence with the Ganges. It de.
rives its present importance from its being the place of junction for
the railroads of Northern India with the main eastern and western
line, which connects Bombay and Calcutta. The railroad bridge
across the Jumna is celebrated throughout the world. Allahabad
is a large military station, and the capital of the northwestern
provinces. It has a public garden, which receives a picturesque
effect from two massive Mohammedan tombs or emambarras.
We were met at the station, at ten o’clock last night, by
an officer, and conducted to Government House, the residence
of the governor, Sir William Muir. This spacious and elegant
structure was illuminated for a concert. Hospitality attended
with less ostentation, or a mor2 sympathetic kindness, we have
never known. Sir William and Lady Muir not only believe in
works of education, but they are patrons of the “ Woman’s Union
Society of America.” A sudden indisposition prevented Mr.
Seward’s attendance at a dinner made for him by the United
Military
and the
Caw
car at 01
fields, a1
sunrise,
toon bri
subject t
Luck
capital o
Oude, ov
valley of
and seve
General
Governor
of New Y
Jude.—Extent of the
Arts, and Empire—
Mosque.—Futtehpore
e Panch Mahal.—Ak.
eighing his Presents,
ce a Mohamme.
mah. It stands
Ganges. It de-
e of junction for
ern and western
railroad bridge
rid. Allahabad
e northwestern
s a picturesque
pambarras.
last night, by
e, the residence
ous and elegant
itality attended
ndness, we have
only believe in
Woman’s Union
prevented Mr.
by the United
CAWNPORE AND LUCKNOW. 419
Military and Civil Service Club of the Northwestern Provinces,
and the zealous American missionaries residing here.
Cawnpore, March 20th.—Lady Muir accompanied us to our
car at one o’clock this morning. We rode through ripening wheat-
fields, and reached the town on the south side of the Ganges at
sunrise. We write these notes while crossing that river on a pon-
toon bridge, a form especially adapted to rivers like this, which are
subject to immense freshets and fioods.
Lucknow, March 21st—We came forty miles to this city, the
capital of the once independent but now nominal kingdom of
Oude, over a branch of the East India Railway, and through the
valley of the Goomty, a tributary of the Ganges. The soil, often
and severely swept by deluges, is poor. We are guests here of
General Barrow, now Commissioner (that is to say, Lieutenant-
Governor) of Oude. With an area half as large as that of the State
of New York, Oude has a population of three millions. Its ancient
Gf Wit, z, ;
LBA etaae irgde 4 Os
a hh
Y
GV fd a: ] '
U2 e Ze) Aj VPA tah
RESIDENCY AT LUCKNOW,
FSi me ee
e 2?
420 BRITISH INDIA.
Mogul capital, which in our maps bears the name of Oude, is now
called Fyzabad. Lucknow has enjoyed that distinction one hun-
dred and twenty years, and now contains half a million of mhab.
itants. It is doubtless true that Great Britain owes her empire in
India more to the dissension of its native rulers than to the force
of arms. We have already seen enough of the country to know
that the causes of those dissensions were, like the divisions among
our aboriginal tribes, deep and lasting. The Bramin religion,
where it was universal, had no effect to produce unity among the
tribal communities dispersed over vast territory, and rendered
irreconcilable by diversity of climate, race, and language. The
Tartars or Scythians, border nations on the North, continually in-
truded, producing alienation between the Hindoo communities,
while the conquering Mohammedans, by an arrogant rule, op-
pressed and crushed the natives.
Agra, March 22d.—Leaving the Ganges at Cawnnore, we came,
by the East India Railway, to Toondla junction, and thence, over a
branch, to Agra, on the Jumna, one hundred and thirty miles north-
west from Allahabad. Some hills, which we crossed, are without
irrigation and barren, but the country generally wears the same as-
pect as the plain of the Ganges. The irrigated wheat-fields yield
sixteen bushels to the acre. The population is four hundred toa
square mile. They have no modern agricultural implements or
machinery. Deficient in industry as in energy, they sit on the
ground when they use the sickle. That they are humane is seen in
the large privileges they yicld to the gleaners.
When we came to Benares, the gentleman who met us there
said, “We are glad that you came here before going to Agra.”
“You do well,” said General Barrow, “to see Lucknow before
going to Agra.” Both were right.
Benares, although unique and grand, now scems to us as
merely an embodiment of an inactive sentiment of mystic devo-
tion. Lucknow is the fanciful capital of an ephemeral kingdom.
Agra, though ruined, is a marvellous monument of arms, arts,
and empire. During a period of one hundred and fifty years, and
until the
progress
the great
provinces
grew into
haps wise
Delhi; ar
casualties
of a quart
here and i
Agra, Fut
famous Ta
which has
circuit, bui
dation to 1
to have be
It now con
structures, |
the Imperi:
the palace
corridors, ¢
The walls
inlaid insid
carnelian,
guarded wi
ments of tl
look down
threw fane
vaulted roc
sands of n
speech ealle
tico, with
umns, In
Which cove
composed q
the throne,
Oude, is now
‘tion one hun-
llion of mbab-
her empire in
in to the force
intry to know
ivisions among
amin religion,
lity among the
and rendered
The
continually in-
inguage,
> communities,
gant rule, op-
nyore, we came,
d thence, over a
irty miles north-
sed, are without
ars the same as-
veat-fields yield
r hundred toa
implements or
they sit on the
hmiane is seen in
o met us there
boing to Agra.”
Lucknow before
scems to us As
of mystic devo-
meral kingdom.
t of arms, arts,
I fifty years, and
AGRA. 491
until the reign of Akbar, the successors of Tamerlane made little
progress in consolidating their empire in India, That monarch,
the greatest, wisest, and best of them all, enlarged it from three
provinces to fifteen, and founded the capital at Agra, which soon
grew into a magnificent city of halfa million. His successors, per-
haps wisely, perhaps necessarily, removed the Mogul throne to
Delhi; and Agra, experiencing no subsequent renovation in the
casualties of war and conquest, has shrunk into a provincial town
There are three monuments
here and in the vicinity which are the work of Akbar: the fort of
Agra, Futtehpore Sikra, and Secundra. These, together with the
frmous Taj-Mahal, constitute the traveller’s study here. The fort,
which has an ample moat and drawbridge, is a mile and a half in
circuit, built entirely of red sandstone, and measures, from the foun-
dation to the embrasured battlements, seventy-two fect. It seems
to have been designed quite as much for civil use as for defence.
It now contains a British arsenal.
of a quarter of its former population.
Its area was filled with palatial
structures, of which two remain in a state of imperfect preservation,
the Imperial Palace and the Pearl Mosque. The substructions of
the palace are red sandstone, but nearly all of its porticos, courts,
corridors, chambers, and pavilions, are of polished white marble.
The walls of the balcony, which overhangs the Jumna, are finely
inlaid inside and outside with mosaics, which combine jasper, agate,
canelian, bloodstone, lapis-lazuli, and malachite. The balcony is
guarded with balustrades of delicate marble fretwork. The apart-
ments of the zenana are extensive and of exquisite finish. They
look down upon what was once a garden. The fountains, which
threw fanciful jets into bathing-rooms, are broken up, but the
vaulted roofs of marble tracery still remain filled with the thou-
sinds of miniature prismatic mirrors. The Divan, in Oriental
speech called the “Judgment-seat of Akbar,” is a grand open por-
tico, with Saracenic roof and arches, resting on three rows of col-
umns. In its centre is « marble throne, inlaid, like the pavilion
which covers it, with mosaic wreaths and texts from the Koran,
composed of jasper and carnelian. A tablet, in the wall behind
the throne, bears the inscription “ Ain Akbaree” (the Laws of
28
Akbar).
guage,
The
iy | ~S= BB all mosqu
being Ny id | aNN te 4 ~_ = : ! = : =
ill Ni
a
with thre
marble de
iS)
NES
SOING
Commit
TELAT
H
i
=
small, but
cludes equ
acquaintand
tance to the
famous gan
EXTERIOR OF THE FORT. carried awe
THE PEARL MOSQUE. 423
Akbar). A Persian poet has written beneath it, in his own lan-
quage, “The Ruler of the World.”
The Motee Musjid, poetically Pearl Mosque, and the pearl of
all mosques, consists of a single corridor of polished white marble,
with three rows of Saracenic pillars and arches, which support a
marble dome, encircled with gilded minarets. The dimensions are
aa peesecese
se363,/,
=
293
8
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9
]
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8
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g
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86se9.
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eeene@
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VANGUATITIT
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PATENT LATTA ACARTTT LT = mi
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{CREAT TCT AY CPL LATENT Im
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i
INLAID SCREEN, TOMB OF MINA BEGUM, AGRA.
small, but the symmetry is perfect, while a severe simplicity ex-
cludes equally blemish, fault, or excess. Less fortunate in official
acquaintance here than elsewhere, we were unable to gain admit-
tance to the storehouse in the arsenal, in which are preserved the
famous sandal-wood gates which Sultan Mahmoud of Ghuznee
wuried away from the ancient ecclesiastical city of Somnath to
424 BRITISH INDIA.
Afshanistan, eight hundred years ago, and which the British
brought back in 1842, to please their Hindoo subjects.
March 23d.—Futtehpore Sikra is twenty-two miles west of
Agra. Desirous to avoid travel under a mid-day heat, we con.
tracted yesterday, with the landlord, for a carriage and two horses,
to leave the hotel at five o’clock this morning, with relays on the
road. By dint of labor, we awakened the landlord, servants, and
drivers, and got off at half-past six, with only one horse, and no
provision for a relay. The smooth road over a level plain exhibits
on all sides the ruins of mosques and palaces of the once great
capital. As this was practically our first private excursion in the
country, we greatly enjoyed the novel rural scenes it presented,
Here was the primitive Hindoo well or fountain by the roadside,
from which veiled maidens were filling their polished brazen urns,
We saw even the youthful Jacob, helping a bashful Rachel to poise
a pitcher on her head. The dress of the people is more striking,
both in fashion and color, than we have before seen. The crow i
here in force as everywhere, but is outnumbered by the ring-dove,
Adjutants and flamingos marshalled us through avenues of flower.
ing acacias and mangos. Oxen, asses, and camels, in trains and
loaded with cotton, obstructed the way.
Futtehpore Sikra was an imperial suburb built by Akbar, and
was six miles in circumference. He enclosed the whole by 2 high
embrasured wall of red sandstone. This fortification, with its lofty
Saracenic gate, remains as if in mockery, protecting the now deso-
lated theatre of imperial pomp and recreation. Our one jaded
beast gave out when we reached this gate. A native guide met
there, and we found his strong arm useful in climbing the rocky
ledge under a burning sun. THe led us, by a circuitous path over
broken columns and fallen arches, into a court covered with masses
of débris. Before us rose a terrace, which we were to ascend by
one hundred stone steps. This staircase was crowned by a Sar
cenic gate-way one hundred and twenty feet high. Ascending the
easy and yet unbroken stairway, we passed under the lofty arch,
which invites the pilgrim of every land to the tomb of Sheik
‘ich the British
bjects.
. miles west of
wy heat, we con-
2 and two horses,
‘ith relays on the
yrd, servants, and
ne horse, and no
vel plain exhibits
f the once great
excursion in the
nes it presented,
1 by the roadside,
ished brazen urns,
ful Rachel to poise
»is more striking,
een. The crowis
l by the ring-dove,
avenues of flower:
nels, in trains and
uilt by Akbar, and
he whole by a high
tion, with its lofty
ting the now deso:
. Our one jaded
1ative guide met us
climbing the rocky
yeuitous path over
overed with masses
were to ascend by
rowned by a Sart
gh. Ascending the
der the lofty arch,
the tomb of Shei
|.
Pius
fed, J,
+ (
i Mi:
Ss
SCENE ON THE ROAD TO FUTTEHPORE SIKRA
§ A eevee
528 G &
26 BRITISH INDIA.
Selim Chishti, the religious monitor of Akbar. Here we rested q
moment to examine the stupendous open doors, which, though fur.
rowed by the storms of three hundred years, are still almost literally
bARACENIC GATE,
covered with gilded horseshoes. The soubahdars of the empire in
their pride took them from the hoofs of favorite steeds, and aflixed
them on the gates in token of fealty to Akbar. Passing from the
gate, we stood in a court four hundred feet square, closely paved
with dark-red hewn sandstone. On the several sides of the cout
is a corridor fifty feet wide, with a roof resting on pillars of red
sandstone fifty feet high. A central fountain lends a peculiar grace
to the court. The tomb of the sheik is beyond the fountain, op-
posite to the great portal, and is surmounted by a lofty, triple:
domed n
jasper.
and both
protectec
eight fee
detricts |
ascetic vi
cence, th:
the saint
climbed t
medley of
seemed @
pavilion »
pinnacle,
We now 1
with no gi
but consis
Moved
Christian
of apartme
relics of he
than in o
still reman
work evidd
hibit a wo
It is i
different eq
between t
Very curiot
of which is
in stories
pyramid,
ranged in
used this Pp
There is a
dome: on t
FUTTEHPORE SIKRA. 427
“=
domed mosque of white marble. The pedestal or platform is of
jasper. The sarcophagus resting on it has a canopy six feet high,
and both are of unmixed mother-of-pearl. The whole structure is
protected on all sides by a white marble screen, composed of panels,
eight feet square, of open filagree work, inlaid with carnelian, It
detricts somewhat from the character of Sheik Selim Chishti for
ascetic virtue, 1s well as from the character of Akbar for munifi-
cence, that this gorgeous tomb was built with the private assets of
the saint himself, at a cost of nearly two million dollars. We
climbed the roof of the corridor and looked down on a mass and
medley of ruins, bounded only by. the outer wall. The desolation
seemed complete, except that here and there we distinguished a
pavilion not entirely dilapidated, a pointed arch, a monument or a
pinnacle, which maintains its solitary position in defiance of time.
We now repaired to the palace in which Akbar resided. It might
with no great expense be restored. It is not one compact structure,
but consists of many edifices, some quite distant from the others.
Moved by a tradition which prevails here that Akbar had a
Christian wife, brought from Constantinople, we explored a suite
of apartments which she is said to have occupied, expecting to find
relics of her piety and devotion. But we had no more success here
than in our inquiries for “Jessie Brown” at Lucknow. There
still remain in these sumptuous apartments some fine fresvos, the
work evidently of Persian artists—while the walls and ceilings ex-
hibit a wonderful elaboration of sculpture.
It is impossible now to obtain a correct idea of the uses of the
different corridors, courts, pavilions, and gate-ways which intervene
between the principal structures of the palace. One of these is
very curious, the Panch Mahal. It consists of five pavilions, each
of which is supported by carved pillars. The several pavilions are
in stories or stages, one above another, making the form of a
pyramid, Another pavilion has a large suite of apartments ar-
ranged in a labyrinth. Tradition says that the ladies of the harem
wed this part of the building for the diversion of hide-and-seek.
There is a square edifice, standing quite by itself, and covered by a
dome: on the outside, it appears to be of two stories; within, how-
[ere we rested a
1ich, though fur.
1 almost literally
bs of the empire in
steeds, and affixed
Passing from the
iare, closely paved
sides of the court
t on pillars of red
ds a peculiar grace
A the fountain, op
by a lofty, triple:
PILLAR
IN AKBAR'S
COUNCIL-CHAMBER.
ever,
massi
ceiling
encire
form,
galler
Akb
that he |
which s1
morals,
from all
on the o
which t]
still in
THE PANCH MAIAL. 429
ever, it is open from the floor to the ceiling of the dome. A
massive carved pillar rises in the centre from the floor to the
ceiling. Fifteen feet from the floor is a gallery with a balustrade
encircling the chamber. From each corner of this gallery a plat-
form, with a like balustrade, connects horizontally with a circular
gallery built around the central column.
‘ OMY Sty
Tek us
A A oo
vl
Atm
PANCH MA'NAL,
Akbar was a contemporary of Queen Elizabeth. They assure us
that he sat on the central platform and leaned against the column,
which supports it, while he listened to the instructions in science,
morals, and religion, of sages and saints whom he had summoned
from all the schools and cloisters of the East, and who were arranged
on the outer platform around him. The broad disk of the dial by
which the Mogul monarch measured the hours remains. There is
still in good preservation the place where Akbar stood while re-
430 BRITISH INDIA.
ceiving the homage of his subjects at his levées or durbars. Nor
is there wanting unequivocal evidence that the great man delighted
in games of chance. An open square of sixty feet has a pavement,
arranged as a chess-board, in blocks of black and white marble,
Instead of ivory, bronze, or wooden chess-men, the contending
kings, queens, knights, bishops, castles, and pawns, were beautiful
slave-women, who moved as directed by the monarch or his oppo-
nent. They add further that the performers themselves were the
stake for which the game was played. <A building known as the
palace of Beerbal was assigned by Akbar to his favorite prime.
minister. It remains in fine preservation, and our architects and
artists might study to advantage its classic design and elaborate
sculpture. If the ghost of the favorite is allowed to revisit the
scene of his power, he might well exclaim, “ To what base uses”
has my palace “come at last!” when he saw us, infidel republicans
of the West, loitering, lunching, and lounging in his elegant cham-
bers. We pass without particular mention the so-called ‘ Antelope
Tower,” one hundred feet high, studded with imitation elephants’
tusks, as well as the triumphal arch, guarded by colored elephants,
But we must not omit to record that, excepting the tomb, mosque,
and other merely ornamental structures, the entire town of Fut-
tehpore Sikra was built wholly of fine freestone; no baser
material entered into the construction for the purpose of either
foundation, column, wall, roof, or dome.
We historically know that this palace was built in 1571, and
that Akbar resided in it twelve years. We have no account of the
period when its decay began, or how rapid has been its fall into
neglect and ruin.
March 24th.—If a man desires that there shall be a monument
to perpetuate his memory, he does wisely, in a worldly sense, if
he builds it himself. Akbar’s tomb at Secundra shows that he
had this wisdom. He extended the Mogul Empire from the Indus
to the Bay of Bengal. Historians rather indicate his wealth by
anecdote than describe his habits of life. They tell us that his
private hunting-stud, used also for war-purposes, consisted of five
urbars. Nor
man delighted
$s a pavement,
white marble.
1e contending
vere beautiful
1 or his oppo-
elves were the
known as the
favorite prime-
architects and
and elaborate
to revisit the
iat base uses”
Jel republicans
3 clegant cham-
led ** Antelope
tion elephants’
ored elephants.
tomb, mosque,
town of Fut-
bne; no_baser
‘pose of either
Mt in 1571, and
s account of the
xen its fall into
be a monument
orldly sense, if
shows that he
from the Indus
» his wealth by
ell us that his
onsisted of five
sve Sot,
0 “Spm TO
"
CARVED PiLLARS IN THE RUINS OF FUTTEHPORE SIKRA.
4.32 BRITISH INDIA.
kd
thousand elephants and ten thousand horses. We do not know
whether he was the first to set the example which 38 said still to
prevail among the princes of the East, of weighing me gratuities in
gold against his own weight on festive occasions ; it is, however,
certain, that this monarch on one such ovcasion weighed a gratuity
in gold against his own person, a second gratuity in silver, and a
third in perfumes.
AKBAR'S TOMB AT SECUNDRA,
The Tom!
of th
Infer
Tue
some it
dilapid:
the tom
the ce
The ent
white
above tl]
other fig
orange,
its brand
emblem4
A serieg
slope, fil
parts the
den to t
feet, wr
has five
the one
stone—t
lo not know
; said still to
gratuities in
is, however,
ed a gratuity
silver, and a
CHAPTER TX.
SECUNDRA AND THE TAJ-MAHAL.
The Tomb of Akbar.—Derivation of the Name of Secundra.—The Taj-Mahal, the Tomb
of the Banoo Begum.—Description of the Taj—The Tomb of King Cotton.—The
Inferiority of Indian Cotton.—Mode of Packing it.
Tur plain over which we drove, five miles to Secundra, shows
some imambarras and other less pretentious Moorish tombs, all
dilapidated or in ruins, The greaf imambarra, here called simply
the tomb of Akbar, stands on a terrace of moderate clevation, in
the centre of an immense garden, which overlooks the Jumna.
The entrance to the garden is through a Saracenic gate-way, with a
white marble minaret rising on either side, and towering high
above the apex of the lofty arch. Besides a profusion of roses and
other flowering shrubs, the garden makes a rich display of mango,
orange, date, palm, perpul, and banyan trees. The perpul, with
its branches bending in the wind and trailing on the ground, is
emblematic of mourning in the East, as the willow is in the West.
A series of oblong marble fountains, stretching down a terraced
slope, filled with the lotus and other aquatic plants, divides into two
parts the grand avenue which leads through the gate from the gar-
den to the tomb. The imambarra covers a space of three hundred
feet, uwvon a platform of white marble four hundred feet square. It
has five stories, each upper story being of smaller dimensions than
the one beneath it. The four lower stories are built of red sand-
stone—the upper one, including floor, dome, and cupola, is of
454 BRITISH INDIA.
polished white marble. The exterior of the several stories, instead
of having balustrades, is ornamented with pavilions, which, resting
on graceful columns, terminate in gilded spires. Having reached
the paved floor of the first story, we descended an inclined plane,
into a spacious, oblong, arched vault, directly under the centre of
the edifice. Its roof rests on polished marble columns, the speces
between which are filled with chiselled marble screens. A marble
sarcophagus within this vault contains the ashes of Akbar. The
covering of the sarcophagus is ornamented with flowering-vines,
and on its lid is an Arabic inscription. It is a favorite piinciple
in Oriental architecture, that each distinct part must have a rela-
tive or corresponding part, called an answer. The principle is car-
ried here to absurdity: there is a mock sarcophagus on the marble
floor of the uppermost story, directly over the sarcophagus, wrought
in precisely the same form as the one below. Its lid is covered
with inscriptions, in raised letters, of the ninety names of God.
This imambarra is, we doubt not, the most magnificent monument
which ever was raised to the memory of a conqueror. In 1803, it
served as a barrack for a regiment of dragoons, but the Government
of British India has since that time taken special care to protect it
equally from decay and desecration. Not a stone of the noble
structure has been removed or displaced.
We leave the tomb of the great Akbar with the single re-
mark that the name of the place which contains it, Seewndra, is
an Indian derivation from that of the first European invader ot
India, Alexander the Great. The name of that conqueror seems
to have secured the same admiration in the East which in the
West has been so long accorded to that of Caesar.
Although Akbar is distinguished for having built for the de-
fence of his capital the unequalled fort of Agra, with its splendid
palace and its beautiful Pearl Mosque, and although he converted
the stony ledge of Futtehpore Sikra into an architectural vision tor
an illustration of his reign, and although he built for himself at
Secundra a monument more admirable than that of Cheops, never-
theless, it remained for a descendant to raise a monument more
exquisite than any of these—a monument, indeed, which is admit-
tory,
ted by
ever L
At
Mahal
Moore
Haren
Jehan,
the Ta
a prin
many t
how th
great dis
imaginat
T
ories, instead
hich, resting
ving reached
clined plane,
the centre of
ns, the spaces
s. A marble
Akbar. The
ywering-vines,
rite piinciple
t have a rela-
rinciple is car-
on the marble
agus, wrought
lid is covered
ames of God.
ent monument
r. In 1803, it
ie Government
re to protect it
b of the noble
the single re-
t, Secundra, is
ean invader ot
nqueror seeiis
t which in the
ult for the de-
th its splendid
hh he converted
‘tural vision for
for himself at
Cheops, never-
onument more
which is admit-
THE TAJ-MAHAL. 435
ted by the whole world to be the most beautiful that the earth has
ever beheld.
An opinion prevails to some extent in the West that the Taj-
Mahal is the tomb of Nourmahal, “the Light of the Harem,” in
Moore’s * Lalla Rookh.” But that is an einen “The Light of the
Harem,” the young Nourmahal, was bur‘ed at iiakiore, Shah
Jehan, the son of Jehangeer, and grandson of Akbar, who built
the Taj-Mahal, to be the tomb of his sultana, Banoo Bagain was
a prince of magnificent tastes. He was also called 5 ee
many trials and much suffering. History does not attempt to tell
how the Banoo Begum, more than others of her sex, deserved the
ai
+ BZ
TAJ-MAHAL,
great distinction which she attained. Poets in the East, in their
I ‘ . 2 . . = . e
imaginative dreamings, have tried to supply this shortcoming of his-
t y . ny a apy +f}
ory. They describe her as beautiful, graceful, gentle, loving, and
6 BRITISIL INDIA.
faithful, bat hundreds, thousands, and millions, who have been as
lovable as she is thus described, have passed away without monu-
ment, though they may have been neither “ unwept, unhonored, nor
unsung.” Let the natural suggestion of our own hearts furnish
the solution. Whatever else Banoo Begum may have been, or
may have done, she was beautiful, she loved Shah Jehan devotedly,
and he loved her more than all the world beside. Tradition says
that she called her husband to her side in her last hours, and re-
‘quired him to promise her two things: First, that he would not
narry again; and, second, that he would build her a beautiful tomb.
We reject the tradition, for we are unwilling to believe that a
Woit.an who could inspire such love as his could have doubted his
fidelity, or have been concerned about her own interment.
The Taj stands upon the centre of a terrace, within a walled
garden of twenty-five acres, on the banks of the Jumna. At either
end of the terrace is an edifice of massive sandstone, with a dome
of the same material. Midway between these is the incomparable
Taj. As you approach, through an outer paved and walled pre-
cinct, the grand gate-way comes into view. It is a majestic Sara-
cenic arch, eighty feet high, springing from two abutments of red
sandstone, having white marble panels, which are completely
covered with texts from the Koran, inlaid in black marble, and
each being surmounted by a white-marble minaret. Coming under
the arch, and looking through a long vista formed by rows of Ital-
ian cypress-trees planted on either side of a series of crystal foun-
tains, you see the Taj rising from an elevation of thirty feet above
the terrace. The platform, in the middle of the terrace, is a square
of four hundred feet, paved with white marble, and each cornei
bears an exquisite white-marble minaret, two hundred feet high.
The Taj is a square structure of one hundred and fifty fect, reduced
to an octagonal figure, with four principal faces, by having the cor-
ners cut down. The four smaller faces are lower than the larger
ones. The entire edifice is built of polished white marble. _ Its
Oriental dome, first swelling into a globe, tapers upward into a
spire which is surmounted by a golden crescent. Four lesser
domes of the same matchless form crown the truncated facades.
At the |
consistil
ment t7
great al
form, On
of wind
letters 0;
architras
gate-way
Akbar, a
the centr
which yo
ble sareoy
cophagus
husband,
the pures
vines, inf
stone, aga
eralds, ru
of the edi
in octago
two hund
limension
light, that
immensity
beauty, 4
ow footst!
dome. O
ders, and ¢
tones of m
rectly abo
of mellow
streams o
These sim
the real o
They are
have been as
ithout monu-
nhonored, nor
hearts furnish
have been, or
ian devotedly,
Tradition says
hours, and re-
he would not
yeautiful tomb.
believe that a
ve doubted his
ment.
vithin a walled
At either
1e, with a dome
ma.
e incomparable
and walled pre-
majestic Sara-
utments of red
are completely
ck marble, and
Coming under
by rows of Ital-
of crystal foun-
hirty feet above
race, is a square
nd each cornei
ndred feet high.
fty fect, reduced
having the cor-
- than the larger
ite marble. Its
5 upward into @
nt. Four lesser
‘uncated facades.
THE TAJ-MAHAL,
At the centre of each of the four wide sides or fronts is a porch,
consisting of a single Saracenic arch, which rises from the pave-
ment two-thirds of the height of the building. Between these
great arches the wall is relieved by two lesser arches of the sau.
‘ae om ; * a ay € ig (
form, one above the other, producing, at a distance, the appearan«s
of windows. The whole Koran is written, by chapters, in flowing
5
letters of delicately-inlaid black marble, over the carved pilasters,
architraves, and arches.
Entering the porch, opposite the great
gate-way, you descend a gently-inclined plane, as in the tomb of
Akbar, and reach a vaulted white-marble chamber directly under
a , °f. r ois .
the centre of the edifice. The light, admitted through the door by
which you have entered, is collected and concentrated on the mar-
ble sarcophagus of Banoo Begum.
A. si‘iila> though smaller sar-
cophagus is placed in the shadow—it holds .. 2 dust of her lover-
husband, Shah Jehan. Each of these tombs is of marble as pure as
the purest of Carrara, the sultana’s most elaborately inlaid with
vines, interwoven with texts from the sXoran, traced in blood-
stone, agate, carnelian, lapis-lazuli, m
ichite, jasper, garnets, em-
Ascending to the main floor
of the edifice, over the vaulted chamber, you are in the centre of
eralds, rubies, topaz, and sapphires.
m octagonal temple, and look up into a dome of snowy marble
° J . , ;
two hundred and sixty-two feet high.
This interior, though of vast
limensions, has such delicate proportions, and such harmony of
light, that you are not at all oppressed with a sense of grandeur or
immensity, but only of a consciousness of exquisite, indescribable
beauty. Although we stepped regularly, timidly, and lightly, yet
ow footsteps brought down deafening reverberations from the
dome. Our conversation came back to us in a confusion of thun-
ders, and a gentle whisper was repeated over and over again, like
tones of music dying in the distance. |
On the rich mosaic floor, di-
rectly above the real tomb, are the duplicate sarcophagi, and a flood
of mellowed light, brought through a single aperture in the dome,
streams over the answering memorial of the beautiful Begum.
These simulated cenotaphs are ornamented in the same manner as
the real ones below, but more elaborately and more exquisitely.
[' 0 : » . >
38 BRITISH INDIA.
ble lace-work, marvellously interwoven with stems, leaves, and
flowers of the lotus and of the rose, all encircled with a waving
wreath of graceful, tender, twining passion-flower, in mosaic of
precious stones and gems,
Man’s chief subject of contemplation is his Creator, his Redeem.
er, his Saviour. In action he balances between desire for power and
love of freedom. THe has attempted to express all these emotions
in architecture. The Parthenon is his highest expression, in that
form, of awe of the gods. St. Peter’s speaks, with not less distinct.
ness, his sentiment of religious devotion. The Pyramids tell his
reverence for human grandeur. The Capitol, at Washington, mani.
fests his love of freedom. The Taj-Mahal pretends to utter no
such lofty sentiments as these, but it speaks out, more naturally
than all, the gentlest, sweetest sentiment of human nature—pure,
spiritual love. <A tale of love is written, an idyl is sung, a melody
of the tender passion breathes through this pure marble and these
precious jewels. The tomb of Banoo Begum, in architecture, like
the apotheosis of Beatrice, in poetry, is without an original and
without a copy.
The Taj isa modern structure.
name of the architect is already lost.
Some call it Italian 5 others insist that it
It is asad reflection that the
Connoisseurs differ in opin-
ion concerning the style.
is Saracenic; others pronounce it Persian. We incline to think it
eclectic, a blending of the beautiful in each.
March 25th.—From the tomb of the Mogul monarch of India,
Akbar, we passed to the tomb of the pretended monarch of Ameri-
cea, King Cotton. The failure, during our civil war, of the cotton-
supply, which had before been derived from the United States
obliged the European nations to seck it elsewhere. Notable
attempts to cultivate the staple were made in Italy, but without
An effort of the Viceroy of Egypt was hardly more effect:
Cotton was indigenous, and success
success.
ual. India promised better.
fully cultivated in the plains which divide the Indus from the
The importunate demand of the European markets
Fortvres were made by spect
Ganges.
stimulated the production there.
lation i
New O
At the
alvanta ge
or whethe
States, 'T
tree labor,
we left hoy
found that
that the ec
fess, morec
India, alth
Again, the
We examir
for the ma
between a
simple me
COTTON MERCITANTS. 454
s, leaves, and lation in cotton almost as rapidly in Bombay as they were lost in
with a waving New Orleans. Agra was the centre of the producing districts.
, in mosaic ot At the end of the war, it became a grave question whether the
or, his Redeem.
‘e for power and
these emotions
pression, in that
not less distinct:
yramids tell his
ashington, mani-
nds to utter no
, more naturally
in nature—pure,
is sung, a mclody
marble and these
architecture, like
- an original and
eflection that the
irs differ in opin-
thers insist that it
COTTON MERCHANTS, AGRA.
incline to think it alvantage which had thus been gained by India could be retained,
or whether the great monopoly could be recovered by the United
States. The change of the system there, from one of slave labor to
tree labor, worked to our prejudice, and doubts still remained, when
we left home, concerning the solution of the problem. We have
found that solution here. The producers now universally confess
that the cotton is greatly inferior to the American fibre; they con-
fess, moreover, that the plant degenerates under the burning sun of
India, although they use the seed imported from the United States.
Again, the ellorts to introduce improved machinery have failed.
We examined one of the establishments in which cotton is prepared
forthe market. The process is very rude. The cotton is passed
between a pair of wooden rollers which are moved by hand. This
monarch of India,
ionarch of Amer’:
Var, of the cotton-
he United States
sewhere. Notable
Italy, but without
iardly more effect:
enous, and succes
e Indus from the
European markets
re made by spect:
simple mechanism is found in every house, and is an exclusive
440 BRITISH INDIA.
occupation of women, The operation of packing is quite as rude;
five men, with their feet, trample the cotton into a succession of
square boxes, one above the other; five other men hold the boxes
in their places until the stack thus raised contains the complement
ofa bale. An iron screw is then Jet down through an upper floor
upon the centre of the cotton-stack. This screw is worked by
eighty other men. Each laborer ejaculates or groans with every
push that he gives the lever, and this groaning, combined with the
noise of their tread upon the floor, produces an indescribable ani
ludicrous confusion. This examination convinced us that Sir Rich-
ard Temple did not misstate in the annual budget the decline of
cotton-production.
THH TAJ, FROM THE FOUNTAIN.
A Vivid Con
sians,—
Foundat
lar Iron
The Imp
Ludlo
the citade
railroad-b
seen, Dell
died—like
decline a
of the Mog
is a fickle
by the Cas
European
reached L
missioner ¢
The or
its neighb
with Gree
name of |
in the Ang
savages, Ww
which pos
quite as rude:
succession of
hold the boxes
he complement
an upper floor
is worked by
ans with every
ibined with the
Jeseribable and
is that Sir Rich-
the decline of
CHAPTER X.
DELHI, THE MOGUL CAPITAL,
A Vivid Contrast to Agra.—Ludlow Castle.—Brief Sketch of Hindoo History.—The Per-
sians.—The Greeks.—The Arabs.—Sultan Mahmoud.—The Mongols or Moguls,—
Foundation of Delhii—Successive Changes of Site—The Kootub Minar.—aA Singu-
lar Iron Shaft.—The Mogul Tombs.—The Tomb of Jehanara,.—The Jumna Musjid.—
The Imperial Palace.—Farewell to Delhi.
Ludlow Castle, Delhi, March 26th.—In crossing the Jumna,
the citadel of Delhi seems to be directly over the terminus of the
railroad-bridge, and gives a fine effect to the approach. As first
seen, Delhi is a vivid contrast to Agra. Akbar wedded Agra, and
died—like the Hindoo widow, she has faithfully mourned him in
decline and poverty ever since. Delhi, until recently the capital
of the Mogul dynasty, and since an important seat of British rule,
isa fickle jade, who easily transferred her allegiance. We entered
by the Cashmere gate, and, driving over a broad plain, in which fine
European buildings alternate with highly-cultivated gardens, we
reached Ludlow Castle, where we are the guests of the civil com-
missioner of the district, Colonel Young.
The outside world derived its earliest knowledge of India from
its neighbors, the Persians, who maintained a vigorous commerce
with Greece in the time of Darius. They gave to the country its
name of Hindostan, the land of the black men. There still remain
inthe Andaman Islands, and some other parts of India, tribes of
girs! race
Q
which possessed the country before the Hindoos. Howe.«’ that
savages, who are supposed to be derived from an abori
fact mi
countr
Himal:
fessing
dividec
howeve
China
Thr
tended
daspes |
the fam
doubtle:
by the |
cessors
Ilindost
attempte
favored,
==
—_—=
propaga
the Gree
and reli;
invader,
order fr
former |}
715 A. p,
2 ee a pe
My 2xY THe aT : \S iN ‘ ; ) pH fh | 1
' iy) : ’ nn 4], ‘ Hi | YA
Re (Ra: eco a ee " iN quered }
ae rae em am! i , \ Me | 1 I
|
= years,
cient fait
quence o
into the J
quering t
at Delhi,
These pa
4 bolder
the count
establishe
ain in fa
HINDOO HISTORY. 443
fact may be, the earliest history of Hindostan represents the entire
country from the Indus to the border of Burmah, and from the
Himalayas to Cape Comorin, as inhabited by one people, pro-
fessing the Bramin faith, although they must have been then
divided into distinct tribes, having different dialects. It was,
however, an isolated and unsocial nation, such as Japan and
China since have been.
Three hundred years before the Christian era, Alexander ex-
tended his conquest across the Indus and to the banks of the Hy-
daspes (the Sutlej) with the purpose of bringing isolated India into
the family of Mediterranean nations. This great enterprise might
doubtless have been achieved at that time, had it not been defeated
by the refusal of the Macedonian army to go farther. His sue-
eessors quickly lost the ground he had gained. The history of
Ilindostan, since that period, is the story only of-repetitions of
attempts, like that of Alexander, for the conquest f the country,
favored, like his, by a slow process of internal disintegration. The
propagandism of Buddha, which occurred soon after the failure of
the Greek conquest, convulsed the country, and, arraying its tribes
and religious sects against each other, opened the way to a new
invader. Mohammed was a religious reformer of a very different
order from Buddha. The latter propagated by preaching, the
former by the sword. In the reign of the Caliph Walid, about
715 a.p., the Arabs invaded Hindostan from the sea, and con-
quered Scinde and part of the Punjab, which they held for some
years. But the [indoos, rallying under the banner of their an-
cient faith, expelled the Mussulman, though only with the conse-
quence of provoking new invasions. Sultan Mahmoud advanced
into the Punjab, in the eleventh century; and his successors, con-
quering the whole of Northern India, and establishing their capital
at Delhi, extended their sway across the Jumna and the Ganges.
These partial Mohammedan conquerors in the north encouraged
a bolder leader of the same faith. In 1898, Tamerlane invaded
the country, seized Delhi, and, with a war of terrific barbarity,
established that great Mongol or Mogul Empire which Great Brit-
ain in fact suppressed in 1803, but of which she permitted a
444
~ oe «ae
BRITISH INDIA.
shadow to stand until 1857, With the exception of Akbar’s resj-
dence at Agra, Delhi was the capital of the Mogul Empire until its
dissolution. With successive changes of dynasty, the city has from
time to time changed its place from one part of the plain to another,
So it has happened that the Delhi of to-day is the last one of a
dozen cities which have successively borne the same name, and
enjoyed the honors of a capital. This modern Delhi dates from the
time of Humayoon, the father of Akbar.
Delhi, March 28th—We drove yesterday eleven miles across
the plain, seeing on all sides the palaces, mosques, and tombs, some
still erect though abandoned, others in dilapidation, others mere
débris, which mark the sites of the several capitals which have
passed away. Among these relics, stands the Kootub Minar. It
may, as claimed here, or may not be, the highest pillar in the world,
We first saw it at a distance of seven miles, under a dim twilight,
which, like moonlight, may have had the effect of increasing its
apparent elevation. Approaching nearer, we found the column a
circular fluted one of red sandstone, two hundred and thirty-eight
feet high, forty-seven feet in diameter at the base, and divided into
five stages or stories, the base of each story ornamented with a
projecting gallery and balustrade. The hei, .ts of the successive
stories are graduated in exact proportion to the contracting diam-
eter of the column, the height of the lower story being nincty-
four feet, while that of the upper is only twenty-two feet. As we
looked up beneath this towering monument, standing so erect and
alone in the broad field of desolation, it seemed to us that, like
Memnon on the Nile, it might have a voice, and so might tell us
a long history of heroic achievements, magnificent designs, and
bitter disappointments, of which it has heen a witness.
The ak is a government institution for the transportation of
passengers and property. It consists of carts drawn either by
horses or oxen, with changes every four miles. At each statior
the “dak bungalow,” in which the traveller, who carries his own
provisions and bed, may take rest and refreshment. A prett
Hindoo temple, which stands under the shadow of the Kootub, has
been 1
use.
airy |
veran¢
the rays
in deep
loftier th
It
The fluti
first story
the circl
shower
marble, e]
f Akbar’s resi-
mpire until its
e city has from
lain to another,
e last one of a
ume name, and
i dates from the
en miles across
and tombs, some
ion, others mere
tals which have
yotub Minar. It
ar in the world,
y a dim twilight,
of increasing its
nd the column a
and thirty-eight
Land divided into
namented with a
of the successive
contracting dian
ry being ninety:
As we
iding so erect nd
d to us that, like
1 so might tell us
two tect.
rent designs, and
ness.
} transportation af
drawn either by
At each station |
thal
o carries his own
yment.
A pret)
f the Kootub, has
THE KOOTUB MINAR. 445
ee ee ee 3
been restored from a state of dilapidation, and appropriated to that
use.
It served us pleasantly for our evening repast, and gave us
airy lodgings for the night. |
Ti oo ait > .
his morning, we looked from its
veranda upon the great, dark column, as it received and reflected
THE KOOTUB MINAR,.
Be wacon al re eee bn er ,
he rays of the rising sun. In this illumination, which left the base
in deep shadow, the monument seemed even more perfect and
loftier than it did on the night before.
A closer observation, while
dle ale 2 a a
it showed some new points of beauty, revealed also some lefects.
Ihe futing of the column differs at the several stories. In the
4 not ot yyy . . at ‘ * .
first story the fluting is cirenlar, in the second angular, in the third
he cirele }
the circle and the angle alternate; the fourth story is of white
marble, encircled at the middle with a belt of brown sandstone; the
446 BRITISH INDLA.
fitth story is of unmixed white imarble. Wnderneath tie magnifi-
cent sculptured cornice which supp. ts the gallery of each stovy,
the column is boldiy carved in Arabic, in texts trom the Koran, and
in part recitals of repairs and improvements made by ditlerent
monarchs. <A circular iron staircase conducts to the summit, where
the visitor takes in at one view the Jumna, the Delhi of our time,
and all the ruined Delhis for miles and miles around. How large
must be the number of those who have trodden that lofty, spiral
staircase, and how diverse myst have been their reading of' the
lessons which that giddy height affords! The recitals mentioned,
as translated by General Cunningham, give us only this informa.
‘on: that the erection of the column was the work of several cen-
turies ; that it was finished in 1236, one hundred and sixty years
betore Tamerlane, and in the reign of Shumsh-oodeen-Altumsh,
We are profoundly grateful for this information, but it would have
saved a world of conjecture and research if the writers of those in.
scriptions had told us who designed .nd began the structure, and
for what object. Was it built as it now stands alone, or was it an
appurtenance to some temple, or palace, or mosque which has long
since ming. | withthe earth ¢ Was it, like the Tower of Babel, de-
signed as a stairway to the heavens, or was it to be an observatory
from which to measure the magniiude and the movements of the
Is it 2 triumphal column, or is ita tomb? Parts of it have
‘| by the storm, and even deranged by the lightning
stars ¢
been ble’
and the Nevertheless, 1t stands firmly, and may en-
quake.
dure for many thousand years. Distant one or two hundred feet
from the column are the dilapidated gates and walls of a spacious
mosque. Some imagine the Kootub Minar an adjunct of that
mosque; others controvert this position, while they maintain that
the structure for which the Kootwh was designed to be an orna-
ment, though projected, was never built.
antiquity, and more mysterious.
teen inches thick, estimated by General Cunningham to be sixty
tons.
feet long, and to weigh seventeen
of twenty-six feet, have
There is a relic, not tar from the Kootub Minar, of even greater
It is a eylindrical iron shatt, SIX-
Excavations, to the depth
failed to tind its lower end, while its top is
twenty
to be
transla
)
ol.
stands
ished J]
cenic a
B medan
~ §=6Moorisl
which ¢
and sail
honor o
ognized,
also som
not be |
them all
IIe has |
longer l
the eart]
into con
these rui
moniwume
dan wors
ing eacl
thousanc
atively n
Aisles bo
that ever
and the
"Collecti
Notes, by
isi4.”
tion,”’ no
the magn
h wie magnifi-
-of each story,
the Koran, and
de by different
y summit, where
lhi of our time,
nd. How large
hat lofty, spiral
reading of the
itals mentioned,
ly this informa-
k of several cen-
and sixty years
oodeen- Altumsh,
ut it would have
‘ters of those in-
he structure, and
lone, or was it an
e which has long
pwer of Babel, de-
ye an observatory
jovements of the
Parts of it have
by the lightning
nly, and may en-
two hundred feet
alls of a spacious
1 adjunct of that
vev maintain that
d to be an orn
uw. of even greater
eal iron shatt, six-
gham to be sixty
ions, to the depth
id, while its top is
THE TOMB OF HUMAYOON, 447
twenty-two feet above the surtsco, ‘Tourists cannot safely assunie
The accomplished traveller Bayard Taylor
says he learned at Delhi that an inscription on the shaft assign.
to be archeologists.
it a date one century before the Christian era, If our guide:
translated correctly the same inscription for us, it was erected a. »
319. The surroundings of this monument are perplexing; :<
stands in the very centre of an immense dilapidated but not demol-
ished Mohammedan caravanserai, palace, or mosque. The Sara-
cenic arches of this ruin indicate, beyond all mistake, its Moham-
medan character; but, here comes the difficulty: all these fine
Moorish arches rest on rudely-wrought, monolith granite columns,
which are covered with carvings, and vines, and images of idols,
and saints. Beyond a doubt these rough columns were raised in
honor of the thirty-three thousand gods of the Hindoos. We rec-
ognized, as we thought, not only those of the Braminical faith, but
also some belonging to the reformed creed of Buddha. But we could
not be certain ef this, for the Mussulman iconoclast has treated
them all as equally offending against the second command of Moses.
Ie has battered and defaced them so effectually that they are no
longer like unto “any thing that is in heaven above, or that is in
the earth beneath, or that is in the water under the earth.’ Take
into consideration, now, that the cross of St. George waves over
these ruins, and we have a grouping, in a circumscribed aves. of th.
monuments of Braminical worship, Buddhist worship, Mo o.ammu-
dan worship, and Christian worship ; the several religion. succeed-
ing each other as conquerors, and all within the perio! of two
thousand years. We drove, next, to a cemetery, which is com par-
atively modern; alighting here, we walked through severai narrow
aisles bordered by so many costly and beautitui marble cenotaphs
that even the graveyard of Mogul monarchs became as monotonous,
aid the eulegistie Arabie inscriptions on them as tedious, as the
“Collection of American Epitaphs and Inscriptions, with Occasional
Notes, by the Rev. Timothy Alden, A. M., in two vols., New York,
iSi4.” The tomb ef Tlumayoon, however, deserves “ special men-
tion,” not more on account of the great merit of that monarch than
the magnificence of the monument. The factious rivairy of Ha-
AAS BRITISH INDIA.
mayoon’s brothers invited an invasion from Afghanistan, in which,
the Mogul emperor was completely overthrown and Humayoon driy.
en into exile. Finding an asylum in Persia, he formed an alliance
with the king of that country, who furnished Humayoon an army,
with which he returned to Ilindostan, resumed the throne of |js
‘ancestors, and transmitted it to his son, the great Akbar. II there
were no Taj, nor tomb of Akbar, the mausoleum of Humayoon
might perhaps be as much admired as those monuments are. It sur-
passes each of them as well in vastness as in massiveness. Its white
marble dome, resting on arcades of red sandstone, making a marke
feature in the plain, is peculiarly beautiful. We turned our steps
from the proud mausoleum to a tomb more rare, and of a very
different design, Aurungzebe, whose name is rendered infamous
by his cruelty, was a son of Shah Jehan. He seized his father’s
throne, usurped his kingdom, imprisoned him, and, as some histori.
ans write, deprived him of his eyes, His sister, Jchanara, refusing
to enter the imperial court of the usurper, remained with her unfor.
tunate father until his death. A monument, simple and beautiful
as her own character, covers her remains. The inscription which
it bears is said to have been written by herself. We brushed
away freshly-cut flowers to look upon it, all the time wondering
who placed them there. These are the words which we read in
Arabic: “ Let no rich canopy rise over my grave; the grass is the
best covering for the poor in spirit, the humble, the ephemeral
Jchanara, the disciple of the holy men of Cheest, the daugliter of
the Emperor Shah Jehan.” We derived from this touching meno.
rial an assurance that ages of superstition, bigotry, and fanaticism,
cannot altogether extinguish womanly virtue, or the admiration of
mankind tor it.
March 28th.—Our sight-seeing, in India, is necessarily done in
the early morning or in the evening; when the sun is very low in
the horizon. Our record of it is made in the time which can be
snatched from society or necessary rest.
The Jumna Musjid derives imposing effect from its situation in
the centre of an oblong area, on a rocky terrace, which extends
from t
magni
of the
two hu
three e
superb
The pa
two inc
border.
mosque
Mosque
more be
Jumna
Its venc
sanctity.
prophet,
mable tr
cannot u
must @o)
strong el
Ther
be dispu
the faith
The f
uted it te
here, we
the Moh;
forbidden
Here,
citadel,
ment of
builder 0
lesser 664
ble, entir
afford the
the surroi
istan, in which,
Tumayoon driy-
med an alliance
ayoon an army,
e throne of his
kbar. If there
. of Humayoon
mts are. it sur-
eness. Its white
naking a marked
turned our steps
e, and of a very
ndered intamous
rized his father’s
|, as some histori-
chanara, refusing
xd with her untor:
ple and beautiful
inscription which
lf We brushed
b time wondering
Thich we read in
bs the grass is the
e, the ephemeral
, the daughter ot
is touching memo-
ry, and fanaticism,
the admiration ot
ecessarily done in
sun is very low in
time which can be
‘om its situation Mm
ce, Which extends
THE IMPERIAL PALACE, 44°)
from the Cashmere gate to the Delhi gate, and is approached by
magnificent stone staircases on three sides—a site not unlike that
of the Capitol at Washington. The Jumna Musjid is a mosque,
two hundred fect by one hundred and twenty feet, surmounted by
three elegant marble cupolas with gilded spires. At each end isa
superb minaret, built in alternate lines of black and white marble.
The pavement of the mosque is of white-marble slabs, each forty-
two inches by eighteen inches, finished with an inlaid black-marble
border. Like the
mosque in the citadel of Agra, the edifice is called the “ Pear] of
Mosques.” Either is
more beautiful than any religious edifice we have ever seen. The
Each slab is a kneeling-place for a worshipper.
We do not attempt to compare the two.
Jumna Musjid is, however, the more highly revered of the two.
Its venerable custodian showed us relics of the greatest possible
sanctity. Among them are a pair of shoes which were worn by the
prophet, and one hair saved from his beard! Both of these inesti-
mable treasures are carefully preserved in antique glass cases. We
cannot undertake to vouch for the genuineness of that hair, but we
must confess that the shrivelled and rotten leather makes out a
strong claim for the genuineness of the shoes.
There is, however, a relic, the authenticity of which can hardly
be disputed. It is a devotional autograph manuscript of Fatima,
the faithful and favorite daughter of Mohammed.
The first accounts of the mutiny of °57 that went abroad attrib-
uted it to a discontent on the part of the Hindoos, From inquiries
here, we have no doubt that it was an insurrectionary attempt of
the Mohammedans. Ever since its suppression, Government has
forbidden public worship in the Jumna Musjid.
Here, as at Agra, the Imperial Palace is within the wells of the
citadel. It is in complete preservation, an is an additionai monu-
ment of the exquisite taste and munificence of Shah Jehan, the
builder of the Taj.
Its prominent parts are one greater and one
lesser “andience-hall.” Each of these is of polished white mar-
ble, entirely open in front, and placed at such a height as to
atiord the emperor, sitting on the throne, not merely a view of
t]
e surrounding audience, but also a view of the procession of his
450
— er
BRITISH INDIA.
vassals as they entered the great palace-gates, with all their gorge.
ous displays of music, soldiers, camels, and elephants. A polished
white-marble throne, in each audience-chamber, is raised on a duis,
six or seyen feet high, of the same material. A pure white-marble
canopy, supported by delicate Saracenie pillars, lends this structure
a peculiar grace. Doth of these halls have been despoiled of the
decorations which first aroused the attention of Europe to the mar.
vellous splendor of the Mogul Empire. The solid silver plates of
the great audience-chamber have been stripped from the ceiling,
and sold in the market in London for one hundred and seventy
thousand pounds sterling. The lesser chamber has been robbed of
the famous “ peacock-throne,” in the construction of which Shah
Jehan expended siv million pounds sterling. The frescos of birds
and flowers on the polished marble walls are now dim—certainly
they must always have been a blemish. If, however, white marble
and fresco are incongruous, it must be admitted that white marble
and yellow gold, arranged in just proportions, form the most effec.
tive of all ornamental combinations. Such is the fretwork which
adorns the capitals, cornices, and flutings of the columns and pilas.
ters. The architect of the palace seems to have been enamoured
of his own creation, for he wrote, on each angle of the lesser audi-
ence-chamber, the words which Moore has made familiar to all the
world in “ Lalla Rookh: ”
“Tf there be an Elysium on earth,
It is this, it is this.”
Let us drop mathematical lines and arithmetical measure-
ments, and try to convey in another way an idea of the palace of
Shah Jehan. Can any one conceive a nobler spectacle than an
inauguration of a President of the United States, under the eastern
portico of the Capitol? Does any one know an¥ thing in the
world more shabby than the broad staging of plank and scantling
on which the august ceremony is performed? The silver ceiling
and the “peacock-throne” have been removed from the throne-
room at Delhi. We would rub off now the gilding and thie fres-
cos on the walls. Having thus reduced the magnificent room to
its orig
United
Bayard
while it
The m
the rest
tious pt
ances, §
the Brit
in,’ Us,
ancestor
Dell
northert
likely th
streets a
The shoy
and aday
Our |
which th
Shah Jel
here six
the insu
being re
recovered
Here
ploration
gine that
Nothing
and, in 14
agreeable
heart y we
ill their gorge-
s. A polished
aised on a dais,
‘e white-marble
is this structure
lespoiled of the
ope to the mar-
silver plates of
om the ceiling,
ed and seventy
been robbed of
of which Shah
frescos of birds
r dim—certainly
ar, White marble
1at white marble
n the most effee-
2 fretwork which
plumns and pilas-
been enamoured
f the lesser audi-
‘amiliar to all the
retical measure:
of the palace ot
yectacle than an
iwnder the eastern
yn¥ thing in the
nk and scantling
he silver ceiling
from the throne
ing and the {ress
nificent room to
SNGLISH KINDNESS, 451
its original simplicity, we would commend it to the Congress of the
United States as a model stage for the inauguration-ceremony,.
jayurd Taylor, more fortunate than we, saw the Mogul palace
while it yet was the residence of the last of the successors of Akbar.
The mutineers of 757, inflated with their first success, proclaimed
the restoration of the empire. That stipendiary yielded to ambi-
tious persuasion, He was quickly overthrown, stripped of allow-
ances, state, and possessions; and we find that his heirs, loyal to
the British Government, are now content with the honor of show-
in,’ us, as guides, the splendor of the halls and tombs of their
ancestors.
Delhi shares with Lahore the commerce of the western and
northern provinces, Afghanistan, Cashmere, and Persia. It seems
likely therefore to remain, as it is,a great and populous city. The
streets are often rendered impassable by heterogeneous caravans.
The shops contain fabrics, tissues, and jewelry, of exquisite richness,
and adapted to every variety of Oriental taste.
Our study of Delhi closed, to-day, with a visit to the heights to
which the British army retired, when driven out of the palace of
Shah Jehan, on the breaking out of the mutiny. They remained
here six months, successfully resisting the surprises and sorties of
the insurgents in the city—twenty times their number. At last,
being reénforced, they became assailants, stormed the citadel, and
recovered the capital.
Here we leave our host, and the learned companion of our ex-
plorations, Colonel Young. American travellers are apt to ima-
gine that Englishmen whom they meet are cold, if not churlish.
Nothing could be farther from this than our experience in India,
and, in looking back through all that experience, we find no more
agreeable remembrance than that of “Ludlow Castle,” and of the
hearty welcome and courteous hospitality we received there.
CHAPTER XI.
UMBALXYA AND PUTTEEALA.
Mecrut, the Scene of the Outbreak of the Great Mutiny.—Hindoo Pilgrims.—First View
of the Himalayas.—Invitations to Putteeala.—Journey thither.—The City of Put
teeala,—Coaches or Elephants ?—Entrance into Puttecalaa—A Magnificent Proces
sion.—Our Palace.
Umballa, March 30th.—Leaving Delhi, yesterday morning, we
recrossed the Jumna and its valley by a bridge and long causeway
Thence we made our way through a
to the station of Gazeabad.
sea of golden wheat-fields, dotted with islands of blooming m:. go.
We stopped at
Meerut, a garrison-town, made memorable by being the scene of the
That great disaster left at Meerut no such
trees—one hundred and fifty miles—to this place.
outbreak of the mutiny.
painful traces or touching monuments as are seen at Cawnpore,
Lucknow, and Delhi.
The common roads parallel with the railroad, for a distance of
twenty miles above Meerut, were thronged with travellers, chietly
men and children, of all castes and classes—save only the poor pati:
ahs, each troop attended by musicians, their costumes diverse in
form and color, The greater number were pedestrians, but others
rode the native ponies, donkeys, camels, and elephants. <A few
showed a special pride as they came along in gayly-decorated carts
drawn by clean white oxen decked with ribbons and garlands.
The long processions which Dublin sent out to Donnybrook on
the days of its fair; the multitude which throngs the road from
London
come W
“mass-t
more @§
good-na
oming
at Hurd
horse-fii
At fc
Ilimalay
horizon,
district, 1
yalow, s
\
equally t!
Putte
Umballa,
announcit
teeala, as]
time to ar
bbe the m
| They wer
the Maha
state, eleg
i bag of t
fumed wit
: which was
of the kin
; hve 0’cloc
fow horse:
We were
pagent) and
Pscrvants,
Ppanied us,
siluted us,
vilicers wo
Pilgrims.—First View
or.—The City of Put
A Magnificent Proces
day morning, We
1d long causeway
iv way through a
blooming m:. Z0-
. We stopped at
g the scene of the
it Meerut no such
cen at Cawnpore,
| for a distance of
travellers, chiefly
nly the poor pari:
stumes diverse in
strians, but others
ephants. A few
yly-decorated carts
ms and garlands
Donnybrook on
ngs the road frou
INVITATIONS TO PUTTEEALA.
453
London to Epsom on the “ Derby-day;” the processions which
cone With music and banners from New-England villages to a
“mass-meeting;”? or the 4th of July in Boston, never exhibited
more eager excitement, or half so much method, or a tithe of the
good-nature, which these Hindoos showed as they trudged along,
oming from all parts of Hindostan, to attend a Braminical festival
at Hurdwar, which is to be improved by being used also as a great
horse-fair.
At four o’clock in the afternoon, we obtained a first view of the
imalaya Mountains, stretching in a long, blue, hazy outline in the
horizon, sixty miles distant.
Major Tigh, commissioner for the
istrict, inet us at the station, and brought us to his fine old bun-
galow, situated in a beautiful park. An Irishman, he retains
equally the warm-heartedness and the naiveté of his countrymen.
Putteeala, March 31st.—Immediately after our arrival at
Umballa, a native gentleman presented himself to Major Tigh, and,
unouncing himself as “canal agent” for the Maharajah of Put-
teeala, asked to be presented to Mr. Seward. Before the latter had
time to answer, a second native appeared, and, declaring himself to
bbe the maharajah’s “Minister of Justice,” asked to be introduced.
| They were admitted, and each presented a letter of invitation from
the Maharajah of Putteeala tendering us the hospitalities of his
state, elegantly written in Arabic on gilt paper, the envelop being
ibag of the finest kincob. The bag, as well as the notes, was per-
famed with attar of roses.
The bag was tied with a silken cord, on
which was suspended the great waxen seal (weighing four ounces)
ot the kingdom, principality, or state, of Putteeala. Yesterday, at
five o'clock Pp. w., we proceeded in four carriages, each drawn by
four horses, which the prince had sent to convey us to his capital.
We were attended by his two messengers, the musteed (canal-
jigent) and the minister of justice, a large military escort, and many
Fservants. Captain Horsford, of the British civil service, accom-
pyanied us. At stages of one mile each, mounted sentinels first
siluted us, and then joined our escort. The maharajah’s high civil
ollicers wore the finest of white India muslin turbans and robes,
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454
BRITISH INDIA.
and his soldiers were arrayed in green, gold, and scarlet, as brightly
as the birds of India.
The Emperor Akbar and his successors made excellent roads,
and at convenient stages built caravanserais for the security and
rest of travellers. These hostelries, each of which is a fortification,
are still well preserved. We stopped at the half-way caravanserai,
and were met there by a large deputation of the maharajah’s house.
hold, in dainty costumes, similar to those worn by his messengers,
These deputies, surrounded by sixty or seventy servants, tendered
us congratulations, in the naine of his highness, on our safe arrival
thus far on our journey. Each individual member of these delega.
tions presented to each one of us, on a massive silver salver, cov.
ered with a white napkin, a half-dozen silver coins, and a fresh
bouquet. As instructed, we touched these coins as acknowledg.
ment of mutual friendship, and retained the flowers. This cere.
mony was followed by a profuse supply of delicate refreshments,
In the midst of these attentions, a telegram from Puttceala an.
nounced that the British Ministers of Finance and Foreign Aisiairs
for the district of Punjab were just leaving the town, and woull
desire to pay their respects to Myr. Seward when they should meet
him. When we had gone a few miles on our way, those distin-
guished personages, with their families, came rolling along in four
four-horse carriages, and an escort—both the equipages and guard
having been furnished by the maharajih, and being exactly on the
same magnificent scale as those by which we were conducted,
Greetings were exchanged, and a cordial invitation. was given to
Mr. Seward to extend his journey to Lahore, the capital of the
Punjab.
Putteeala, the capital of the province or native principality of
the same name, is protected by a citadel as spacious, though not %
substantially or scientifically constructed, as Fort Hamilton. Forti
fications in India seera ‘o have been built as retreats or places of
safety for the sovereign or his family. The mother of the present
prince resides in the citadel of Putteeala. Arriving at its gate, we
came to a halt, and we saw through a cloud of dust the maharajdl
coming toward us in a magnificent state coach drawn by six white
horse
a squ
carria
comp]
which
tal;
would
Mr. §
travel,
visitor,
taking
the cit;
the san
Seward
and pa
master
that, w]
honor o
could of
indulge
soned i
rings an
tion,"
their gj
the two
with Ca
The ele}
coast of
The Hi
motions
skin on
formed,
next, ouy
musteed ;
manner,
any ride
rlet, as brightly
excellent roads,
he security and
is a fortification,
vay caravanseral,
aharajah’s house-
y his messengers.
ervants, tendered
n our safe arrival
y of these delega-
silver salver, cov-
coins, and a fresh
1g as acknowledg-
ywers. This cere
cate refreshments.
rom Putteeala an-
nd Foreign Aifairs
e town, and would
they should meet
way, those distin-
pling along in fou
quipages and guar
being exactly on the
e were conducted.
ation- was given to
, the capital of the
tive principality af
cious, though nots!
t Hamilton. Forti
retreats or places af
fother of the present
riving at its gate,
dust the maharajth
1 drawn by six white
ELEPHANT-RIDING.,
455
horses; the highway, on either side, was lined with outriders and
a squadron of cavalry. The prince, driving by the side of our
carriage, saluted Mr. Seward with stately cordiality. When the
compliments were ended, the maharajah asked Mr. Seward in
which manner he would prefer to make his entrance into the capi-
tal; whether he would go with him in his coach, or whether he
would be pleased to make his entrance on the back of an elephant.
Mr. Seward, diffident perhaps of his skill in the latter mode of
travel, or acting under a conviction that modesty best becomes a
visitor, accepted the offer of a seat in the coach. The maharajah,
taking his seat at Mr. Seward’s left, made a rapid advance toward
the city. The ladies, like Mr. Seward, being complimented with
the same choice of manner of entering the city, decided like Mr.
Seward in favor of a comfortable coach-and-six. Hereupon a halt
and parley ensued between Captain Horsford and the prince’s
master of ccremonies. In the course of this debate, it appeared
that, while the prince excused Mr. Seward’s declination of the
honor of the elephant on the ground of his years, the ladies, who
could offer no such plea, would give offence by claiming the same
indulgence. Sixty clephants stood by the road-side, richly capari-
soned in cloth of gold and scarlet, all ornamented with gilt ear-
rings and necklaces. There was no more to be said on that ques-
tion. The elephants kneeled, silver ladders were placed against
their sides, and, in less time- than it takes to describe the action,
the two ladies, not venturing to ride alone, were seated together
with Captain Horsford, in the spacious gilded and velvet howdah.
The elephant arose with a motion like that of the surge on the
const of Madras, and the ladies found themselves in the upper air.
The Hindoo driver sits on the elephant’s head, and directs his
motions by the use of an iron spike, which he thrusts against the
skin on either side of the forchead. A procession was then
formed. First, the maharajah with Mr. Seward; then the ladies ;
next, our three servants, Jeanie, Price, and Freeman; next, the
musteed; next, the Minister of Justice, mounted in the same
manner, and behind them the long train of elephants without
any riders, and the five hundred richly-caparisoned horses, led
eS bes =
'
i!
bh
ed
he
"4
wh be
456 BRITISH INDIA.
by as many grooms no less gayly dressed. As a signal for the
progress to begin, the air was rent by a salvo of nineteen guns;
the salute was repeated by a fusillade from what seemed endless
ranks of infantry, bugles sounded a march, and the cavalry
moved to the front. Four bands of music wheeled into column,
playing, more cr less together, “ God save the Queen!” Behind
them a company of fifty bagpipers, playing not altogether, as
they fell into line, “Bonnie Dundee.” At the moment of the
cannonade the led horses kicked, pranced, and reared; the cle.
phants uttered piteous, deep, indescribable cries, and tried to
prick up their enormous jewelled ears, remaining otherwise quiet;
crowds on the wayside shouted applause, and children screamed
with delight. As for Mr. Seward, he, fortunate gentleman, snugly
seated by the maharajah on velvet cushions, in the coach drawn
by six well-trained animals, was unconscious of the disturbance
which had arisen behind him. His inexperienced and more ven.
turesome companions clung to each other in fright—but order
was restored, and all were reassured. On the way to his capi-
tal, the maharajah addressed to Mr. Seward a studied speech
of welcome. Taking care to express his regret that his guest had
not accepted the elephant, the prince said that the troops we had
passed in review were ten thousand in number. He also explained
to Mr. Seward that, when he came to the throne, he found no
streets in Putteeala wide enough for such a pageant as he had occa-
sion to make, and that he had, therefore, enlarged the streets, but
not without making due compensation to the owners of adjacent
property. Night came on as we reached the gates. We looked
from our howdahs upon the flat roots of the dwellings and shops be-
low us. Their inmates were gathered at the doors in gay dresses,
and seemed as diminutive as the burghers of Liliput. Thus we
passed through the entire city, and reached, beyond the farther
gate, an esplanade used as a Campus Martius. Winding around
a tall flag-staff, under the folds of what is called the sacred banner,
we stopped before a lofty Saracenic gate. Here, the maharajab,
with Mr. Seward, alighted, and the clephant-riders dismounted.
The prince led the way on a gravelled walk, by the side of sue-
Fp re meee
ag Te
signal for the
nineteen guns;
seemed endless
d the cavalry
xd into column,
een!” Behind
t altogether, as
moment of the
reared; the cle-
s, and tried to
otherwise quiet ;
\ildren screamed
entleman, snugly
the coach drawn
the disturbance
d and more ven-
right—but order
way to his capi-
n studied speech
hat his guest had
he troops we had
He also explained
bne, he found no
nt as he had occa-
d the streets, but
wners of adjacent
ates. We looked
ings and shops be:
brs in gay dresses,
iliput. Thus we
eyond the farther
Winding around
the sacred banner,
e, the maharajah,
iders dismounted.
y the side of sue
oes
ESE Sees
ELEPHANTS ON THE MARCH AT PUTTEEALA.
BRITISH INDIA.
458
cessive fountains, in an orange and Jemon garden, as it seemed, of
boundless extent. Each fountain poured over a cascade into the
next. These cascades were illumined by torch-lights from behind,
which imparted to the jets all the hues of the rainbow. We
stopped at the porch of a small Saracenic palace. The prince,
taking Mr. Seward by the hand, led him up a gentle flight of steps,
across a veranda, into a salon which may be eighty by forty fect,
and thirty feet high, the ceiling supported by a double row of col-
umns, and the walls draped with orange and scarlet silks. “ This
palace,” said the maharajah, “is yours; this is the hall in which
you will sit, these apartments on either side of it are the rooms in
which you will sleep. You must be weary with your journey. I
beg to take my leave for the night. I shall have the honor to visit
| e : you to-morrow morning.”
egy ® ‘ ° ° . Oriental |
ian oe The ladies were not slow in exploring the cosy little palace. An]
ye ‘ rf Its lights, furniture, and ornamentation, are an Oriental exaggera- “i
e - tion of the European style. The welcome dinner, though prepared ae
1s i by a French hand, and graced with the best wines of France, Ger-
4 | many, and Portugal, was served by Hindoos, who, dressed in flow- Ap
; ing white gowns, glided noiselessly in bare feet over the velvct of Ori
‘ carpet. It was evident, as he himself said, that the Prince of Put- Works
tecala is not like those “ people” whom we see in Calcutta. As table m
for the ladies, they expressed a doubt whether the story of Aladdin the Ki
is indced a fiction. awlewa
in the
book ta
of hug
We pass
covers
are eig
the cri
and fift
oned i
for a te
Capital
of the 4
s it seemed, of
iscade into the
ts from behind,
rainbow. We
. The prince,
> flight of steps,
y by forty feet,
able row of col-
4 silks. % This
e hall in which
re the rooms in
our journey. |
ic honor to visit
sy little palace.
iental exaggera-
though prepared
of France, Ger:
dressed in flow-
over the velvet
Prince of Put-
Calcutta. As
story of Aladdin
CHAPTER XII.
PUTTEEALA (Continued).
Oriental Displays and Diversions.—The Menagerie.—The Prisons.—The Heir-Apparent.—
An Elephant Fight.—Jesters and Jugglers.—The Royal Palace.—Magnificence of the
Maharajah.—The Durbar.—The Young Prince.—Superb Fresents.—A Magnificent
Salon.—The Maharajah’s Conversation with Mr. Seward.—An Exhibition of Fire-
works,
April 1st.—This has been a day of bewildering succession
of Oriental displays and diversions. The Minister of Public
Works came before breakfast, and attended us to the inevi-
table menagerie. The aviaries, though full, are inferior to those of
the King of Oude. We saw, for the first time, the long-legged,
awkward, brown cassowary, whose name rhymes to “ missionary ”
in the witty verse where “ Timbuctoo” finds its answer in “ hymn-
book too.” The tiger collection is very fine, many of the animals
of huge size and quite untamed. From the cages of wild beasts
we passed to the cages of wild men, the state-prison of Putteeala. It
covers an area of four acres, enclosed by a low adobe wall. There
are eight hundred and twenty-tive prisoners, chiefiy convicted of
the crimes of arson and burglary; of these, only one hundred
and fifty can read and write. Two hundred convicts are impris-
oned in other parts of the province. Imprisonment is generally
fora term of one, two, three, or seven years, occasionally for life.
Capital punishment is inflicted only for murder. The population
of the city of Putteeala is eighty thousand, and that of the ancient
460
kingdom or principality is two millions, and yet there has been no
BRITISH INDIA.
The prisoners are neither confined
capital execution in two years,
Those of eavh caste
in separate cells, nor do they live together.
work, sleep, and eat, in different divisions of she building; the
odious distinction of caste is preserved nowhere more absolutely
than here. The pariahs, outcasts everywhere in common life, are
equally segregated in prison, and subjected if possible to a lower
All are heavily ironed, and are guarded by an armed
police of three hundred men. Their labor is either hard or light,
according to the grade of their offence. Hard labor consists of
grinding grain with a hand-mill; light labor is weaving carpet,
making shoes, pottery-ware, and the like. Our labor-reformers in
the United States may find a new argument for their claims in the
fact that, by the laws of Putteeala, five hours are a full day’s work,
The prisoners have native medical attendance, but no religious or
secular instruction. The products of the prison are sold in the
markets, and nearly defray its expenses, which average fourteen
cents a day for each convict. We found at the prison-gate, as we
came out, a train of elephants kneeling for our service, but we
respectfully declined the honor. On the way homeward, we meta
small boy in a gilded coach, with post‘lions and outriders. He
was so richly arrayed and superbly attended, that we at once con-
jectured him to be the heir-apparent. it was fortunate thut we
saluted him as such; for the minister who attended us afterward
informed us that the little lad had been sent out to meet Mr.
Seward, and was attended by the entire ministry. We breakfasted
alone in our little palace, at ten o’clock. The mahiarajah came at
eleven. He invited Mr. Seward and the ladies to a grand durbar,
The English ladies whom we have met in India have declared to
us that they decline to receive native princes, on the ground that
the ladies of India decline to receive gentlemen in the zenanas.
The reason given for this seclusion of women is, that a general
intercourse with society would be immoral and unbecoming the
dignity of the sex. But we are inclined to think that Christian
women who thus refuse to recognize the native gentlemen are
in fact adopting the bad customs and manners of India, instead
humiliation.
of com
of tha
seemec
to met
ducted
which
manne
sentime
explain
vailing
prevent
his owr
a foreig
¥ oof her
added 1
own ro
energy
The
fight.
They ¢:
away h
They fo
and by
one sho
other,
encoura
driver o
The prif
with dis
other an
way as
vanquish
while tl
suit. T
and the
each oth
ere has been no
1either confined
e of each caste
e building ; the
more absolutely
ommon life, are
ssible to a lower
led by an armec
er hard or light,
abor consists of
weaving carpet,
vbor-reformers in
ieir claims in the
v full day’s work.
it no religious or
_ are sold in the
average fourtecn
prison-gate, as we
service, but we
neward, we met a
dd outriders. Le
1t we at once con-
fortunate thut we
ded us afterward
out to meet Mr.
We breakdfasted
naharajah came at
oa grand durbar,
have declared to
n the ground that
in the zenanas.
is, that a general
unbecoming the
k that Christian
e gentlemen ar
of India, instead
AN ELEPHANT-FIGHT.
461
of commending our own better morals and manners to the people
of that country. The prince’s invitation was accepted. He
seemed to have only just taken his leave, when we were summoned
to meet him at the pavilion at the centre gate. Tere he con-
ducted us up a winding staircase, and gave us seats ina balcony,
which overlooks the esplanade. He performed this courtesy in a
manner which showed that he fully understands the Western
sentiment of respect for women. He afterward took care to
explain to us, through the prime-minister, his regret that the pre-
vailing and uncompromising religious sentiment of the country
prevented him from introducing the Western social customs into
his own family. Ie has two wives, neither of whom has ever seen
a foreigner, man or woman, nor has ever met even a countryman
of her own, other than the nearest blood relations. The prince
added that, before the Mohammedan conquest, the women of his
own royal house were more distinguished for political ability and
energy than the men. A strange remark for an Oriental.
The entertainment to which we had come was an elephant-
fht. Two enormous combatants were brought on the field.
They came with manifest reluctance. Their tusks had been cut
away half their length, and the stumps were bound with brass.
They fought by pushing their broad foreheads against each other,
and by crowding with the shorteied tusks. It was seen, after
one short encounter, that one animal was more. powerful than the
other. The weaker retreated. No effort his keeper made could
encourage him to renew the contest, nor could any urging by the
driver of the victorious beast induce him to pursuc his advantage.
The prince dismissed these combatants, or rather non-combatants,
with disgust, and caused them to be immediately replaced by two
other animals of equally gigantic size. They fought in the same
way as the first, ind with about the same result, except that the
vanquished aniiaal in this case retreated quite out of the arena,
while the conqueror was with much difficulty held back from pur-
suit, These latter contestants gave place in their turn to two others,
and the form of the combat varied. With their trunks, they clasped
each other by the head, and, thus embraced, they continued a battle
462 BRITISH INDIA.
until one became so worried and exhausted that he gave up the
The maharajah said, “ These elephants are good fight.
We agreed with him about
contest.
ers, but the heat overpowers them.”
the temperature, while we thought the performance of the poor
beasts needed no apology. The prince now took his leave, and we
returned to our palace, and took our seats on the veranda under a
canopy of Cashmere shawls, supported by silver staffs, the fountains
gurgling at our feet. Two court-jesters appeared before us, and in
the Hindoo language went through a rehearsal of drolleries and
pantomimes, which seemed to us not unworthy of Dan Rice or
G. L. Fox. They gave place to an acrobat, who, although eighty
| i 7A i aa | i li i
A CONJUBOR AT PUTIEEALA.
years old, displayed prodigious strength and agility. With a long
sword in hand, he turned a double somersault, cutting a betel-nut
in two parts. Although these performances were ordered for our
own pé
manife
joyed
ministe
crowd
of jugg
and a
long, v
Daniel |
homage
amusem
cannon.
but, in t
The stri:
the pala
down.
round, |
inconsole
piteous ¢
absence ¢
Next
instrume
80 uninte
touching.
ing or si
so that tl
have to g
denly, at
came to a
acrobats,
Arabian,
for inspeq
bridles, gq
of India ¢
and bangl
in India,
he gave up thie
are good fight-
with him about
ce of the poor
is leave, and we
veranda under a
fis, the fountains
pefore us, and in
f drolleries and
of Dan Rice or
although eighty
lity. ‘With a long
utting a betel-nut
re ordered for our
JUGGLERS AND MUSICIANS.
463
own party, they soon attracted a crowd of native spectators, who
manifested a higher appreciation for them than we did. We en-
joyed much more highly their rapt attention; but the prime
minister would have no such vulgar intrusion. The admiring
crowd was dispersed. Then came on another sport, a company
of jugglers, one, a young man who performed feats with a goat
and @ monkey; another, a very old and eccentric Sikh, with
long, white hair, and eyes as large and sunken as those of
Daniel Webster. He seemed a man to whom we should pay our
homage, rather than one who should be required to cater to our
amusement. His achievement was to make a pigeon fire a mimic
cannon. The ordnance was duly loaded and primed. It went off,
but, in the act, the gentle gunner rose into the air, and went off too.
The string of his captivity had fallen from his feet. He perched on
the palace-roof. The poor old man tried in vain to entice him
down. He appealed to the new audience which had gathered
round, but no assistance could be given. The juggler became
inconsolable; when he saw his loss, he assumed an attitude as
piteous as that of “Rip Van Winkle” when he discovers the
absence of his faithful “ Schneider.”
Next came a musical band, which gave us a concert on native
instruments, playing their pensive airs, which we thought at first
so unintelligible, but which we now find pleasing, sometimes quite
touching. The gamut is like our own, of eight tones, but in play-
ing or singing a melody, called rang, they use all the semi-tones,
s so that the performance is a chromatic succession of notes, and you
have to guess which of the accentuated tones speak the air. Sud-
denly, at the prime minister’s command, this series of diversions
came to an end, and all the performers, musicians, jesters, jugglers,
acrobats, and fools, disappeared. Thereupon sixty thorough-bred
| Arabian, Persian, Australian, and African horses, came before us
for inspection. They were gorgeously caparisoned, with silken
bridles, golden trimmings, kincob and velvet robes, and housings
of India cashmere. They wore also gold ear-rings and necklaces
and bangles. One of them, which is claimed to be the fastest horse
in India, borrows the name “Hermit” from the great English
cou aye
te
‘
— .
}
oe ta
A
; (iy! (eile
in
Pe INK
iG ‘iw { ei ry
wt pag A 14 if
courser
than th
Wh:
ended ?
seats in
area Wit
cow, the
persons,
back its
“native
the othe
the mot
At f
servants
Mr. Sev
Notwith
our exal
to the ar
bulwark
abreast,
With th
safely to
palace, e
Ie, like
The
high, an
arms, an
greeted
a brass |
Mr. Sew
honor 0
cence of
at the or
strings q
turban,
his visit
THE MAHNARAJAI’S PALACE, 465
courser. The fantastical grooms manifested scarcely less pride
than the horses themselves in showing their fine points,
What wonder that we now thought the princely exhibition was
ended? It was not, though. We were summoned again to our
seats in the pavilion at the gate. Two elephants came into the
area With their calves—one of these born since the captivity of the
cow, the other made a captive with its mother in the jungle. Few
persons, perhaps, can imagine how skilfully the little animal throws
back its trunk, while taking its nutriment. The calf that was
“native here, and to the manner born,” was bold and indifferent,
the other timid and frightened. Its crics were almost human, and
the mother’s manner of soothing it not less so.
At five o’clock, Mr. Seward, the ladies, Captain Horsford, and
servants, were duly mounted in gorgeous howdahs on elephants,
Mr. Seward being raised to his howdah in a gilded palanquin.
Notwithstanding our previous experience, we all felt insecure in
our exaltation. While the elephants rose to their feet, we held fast
to the arms of our howdahs, very much as the landsman grasps the
bulwark of a ship in a high sea. Our animals marched three
abreast, covering the entire pavement of the widened streets.
With the careful help of numberless supple grooms, the party came
safely to the foot of the broad staircase within the court of the
palace, except that, on our calling the roll, Freeman did not answer.
Ie, like the rest, was mounted on an elephant, but was left behind.
The palace is built on the sides of a quadrangle, is four stories
high, and is quite imposing. <A battalion of infantry presented
ams, and a ringing blast from the bugles of a squadron of cavalry
greeted us as we entered the court. While we were dismounting,
a brass band played the ever-favorite national anthem in honor of
Mr. Seward, and the bagpipers followed with “ Annie Laurie” in
honor of the ladies. We have heretofore described the magnifi-
cence of the attire of the Maharajah of Putteeala, when he appeared
at the opera and at the concert in Calcutta. We wondered at the
strings of emeralds and pearls which drooped from his neck and
turban, when he met us yesterday at the citadel. When he paid
his visit of ceremony this mornin at the pavilion, we thought he
466 BRITISH INDIA.
could have nothing in reserve so fine as the diamonds and emeralds
he then wore. One chain, suspended from his turban, contained
twenty-six brilliants, each as large asa hazel-nut. But those dee.
orations were simplicity itself when compared with the pearls,
rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds, which flashed upon us
as he stood resplendent on the portico above, waiting to receive us,
The music, until now hushed, burst forth from twelve unseen bands
at once. With majestic courtesy, he took Mr. Seward by the hand
and conducted him up the steps, and across the terraced portico,
and seated him in a silver arm-chair, which was placed on a dais
within a recess, in a great hall of audience, which was filled to its
utmost capacity. Then excusing himself, his highness returned to
the portico, and conducted one of the ladies to an equally magnif-
eent seat; then returned, and brought the other lady in the same
courtly manner. He then seated himself between the two ladies,
Mr. Seward had become anxious, and now asked Captain Horsford
for Freeman, Inquiry was made, and he was found sitting meekly,
if not quite patiently, in his gilded howdah, forgotten in the bustle;
equally unable to descend without assistance, or to make his wants
known. At command, a silver ladder was raised against the kneel:
ing beast, and J*reeman entered, having had to wait his audience at
Putteeala, as he had before to wait for the fifteenth amendment to
bring him tc the citizenship of the United States.
The musie ceased. The prince, now turning to Mr. Seward,
delivered an elaborate speech, in which he explained, in a strain
perhaps not altogether free from Eastern hyperbole, the pride and
satisfaction which he derived from Mr. Seward’s visit to his capital,
and to the palace of his ancestors. This discourse was followed by
an address equally complimentary to each of the ladies. Mr,
Seward replied that it was particularly gratifying to him to be
received with so much consideration in one of the most important
of the native states of India. These compliments finished, the
infant son and heir of the prince was brought in, accompanied by
twenty or more tutors, and attendants, and was formaily presented
to each of the visitors. The little boy, only four years old, is very
pretty. He has large dark eyes and curling black hair. His small
rich 8
mous
down.
his tu
mectit
have
seen
priety
curly
asleep.
howev
might,
other
accoun
of his
easy ar
upon t
onds and emeralds
turban, contained
t. But those dee.
with the pearls,
h flashed upon us
iting to receive us,
elve unseen bands
ward by the hand
» terraced portico,
placed on a dais
ch was filled to its
ehness returned to
in equally magnifi-
lady in the same
en the two ladies,
| Captain Torsford
ind sitting meekly,
otten in the bustle;
to make his wants
against the kneel-
yait his audience at
nth amendment to
g to Mr. Seward,
plained, in a strain
bole, the pride and
visit to his capital,
se was followed by
the ladies. Mr.
ing to him to be
1e most important
ents finished, the
n, accompanied by
formaily presented
r years old, is very
‘ik hair. His small
THE INFANT PRINCE. 467
rich scarlet-and-blue silk dress was loaded with jewels. An enor-
mous turban, embroidered with gold, seemed enough to weigh him
down. He stood erect and made profound salams ; then one of
his tutors, speaking in the child’s nee, said: “I had the honor of
meeting your excellencics, in your morning drive, and I hope you
have had a pleasant day. I shall always remember that I have
seen you here.” Having gone through his part with perfect pro-
priety, the yoang prince, like any less distinguished child, laid his
curly head on the arm of his great silver chair, and was soon sound
THE PRINCE OF PUTTEEALA
asleep. The maharajah now spoke of his domestic state, saying,
however, nothing of wife or wives. He dwelt, as a proud father
might, on his two children, the one who was now with us, and the
other a girl, still younger, in the zenana. He then gave us a bricf
account of his father, who was distinguished for his heroism, and
of his two sisters, one of whom is dead, the other 2 widow. This
easy and pleasant conversation over, a troop of nautch-girls came
upon the floor, more richly dressed and more graceful even than
- «2 cne CEG RI
a @
Fae]
=
Be
Fa © @
BRITISH INDIA.
468
those we saw at the regatta on the Ganges. The hall was now
cleared. Fifty Sikh bagpipers, in British uniform, marched through
the hall, discoursing familiar airs under the leadership of a Scottish
piper, in tartan and kilts.
After these amusements, the business of the durbar was re.
sumed. The maharajah’s ministers of state were announced,
appeared and made salams in a manner which elsewhere might be
thought affected or obsequious, but here is graceful and dignified,
Mr. Seward detained each, with questions in regard to the affairs
of his department, and the form in which it is conducted. Next
came the general and commanders of the army, not forgetting the
Ilighland lesder of the pipers. Putteeala has no navy. Last, a
great number of persons, presented as “relatives of the prince,”
employed in judicial, political, and municipal trusts. No present.
able man in the city was omitted. The presentations being over, a
multitude of servants, “that no man in haste could number,” came
bearing silver trays on their heads filled with India fabrics of mus.
lins, cambrics, cashmeres, silks, and jewels, and laid the whole at
Mr. Seward’s feet, the trays covering twenty feet square on the
floor. The prince, with infinite gravity, invited Mr. Seward to
accept this “small and unworthy collection” as a token of his
highness’s respect and affection. Mr. Seward, having been previ-
ously instructed, touched with his finger the simplest article, a
turban scarf of purple interwoven with gold thread. The trays
and their bearers immediately disappeared, but only to be replaced
by a similar display, no less costly and elegant. These treasures
were laid at the feet of one of the ladies, who was asked to accept
this “poor trash.” In accordance with an intimation through an
officer, she touched a cashmere shawl. The train and merchandise
disappeared, and the third and equal presentation was made to the
second lady, who in like manner touched a shawl. The prince,
who had looked on with an air of supreme indifference to the
whole proceeding, then said to Mr. Seward, “I have a great many
other things in the palace, which I should like to present to you,
but I will not take up your time to look at them.” Then, thanking
Mr. Seward and the ladies for having accepted these “ unworthy
trifles,
that al
us, sho
servan
trifles ”
New }
with a
denly y
tity of |
The
which 1
hundrec
The roc
are susp
two tho
rors. J
our pala
with as
parks ay
a final v
the stai
through
deners,
fruit,
Queen,”
national
the mah:
a furious
Wer
sand can
broad, b
grand. sti
windows
Puttecals
visited th
which wa
e hall was now
narched through
hip of a Scottish
durbar was re-
ere announced,
ewhere might be
ful and dignified,
ard to the affairs
onducted. Next
ot forgetting the
o navy. Last, a
s of the prince,”
sts. No present:
ions being over, a
id number,” came
lia fabrics of mus-
laid the whole at
et square on the
d Mr. Seward to
s a token of his
aving been previ:
simplest article, a
read. The trays
nly to be replaced
These treasures
as asked to accept
nation through an
and merchandise
1 was made to the
awl. The prince,
hdifference to the
have a great many
to present to you,
> ‘Then, thanking
these “ unworthy
A MAGNIFICENT SALON, 469
trifles,” he in a loud voice, and with an imperious manner, directed
that all the articles which had been thus displayed and offered to
us, should be conveyed to Mr. Seward’s palace and delivered to his
servants. Jor our part, we are quite sure that “these unworthy
tries”? would have been sufficient to stock an Indian bazaar in
New York. Price, Freeman, and Jeanie, who had been filled
with admiration in witnessing the august ceremony, became sud-
denly perplexed to know how they should convey so large a quan-
tity of precious baggage in our small special railway car.
The Prince of Putteeala now spoke with pride of the salon in
which the durbar was held, and not without reason. It is one
hundred and thirty feet long, sixty feet wide, and thirty feet high.
The roof is supported by double rows of columns, between which
are suspended crystal chandeliers, with variegated-glass shades for
two thousand lights. The walls, on all sides, are hung with mir-
Mr. Seward rose to take leave. The betel-nut was offered to
our palates, the attar of roses to our hands, and we were dismissed
| with a suggestion that we should drive through those of the city
parks and gardens which we had not yet seen, and then return for
a final visit in the evening. The maharajah conducted us down
the staircase and placed us in carriages. We drove an hour
through the public grounds, being stopped every few rods by gar-
deners, who covered us with flowers, and filled our carriages with
fit. A band of music, on the way, gave us “God save the
Queen,” which tune these good people seem to think to be a
national hymn of our own.
rors.
On the way to our pavilion, we met
the maharajah, driving his favorite “ Hermit” before a dog-cart, at
afurious rate, followed by a flying escort.
We returned to the palace at eight o’clock. All the two thou-
sind candles were ablaze, and were reflected to infinitude by the
broad, bright mirrors, Not only the salon, but the court, the
grand stairway, the portico, the entire palace, with its thousand
windows and balconies, were illuminated. So the ancestral hall of
Puttecala was as brilliant as the mountain-palace in which Cupid
visited the enchanted Psyche. We had an hour of conversation,
which was the more interesting because informal. It turned chiefly
31
&
7 me te =
470
BRITISH INDIA.
on the prince’s intended journey the next year to England, and
his desire to extend it to the United States. He presented his
photograph to Mr. Seward, and requested him to write from
different points on his travels in India. He then asked for g
minute account of the painful event at Washington, in which
Mr. Seward was a sufferer. He showed a deep interest in that
subject, although his knowledge of it was imperfect. The mahars.
jah now informed us that he had made all needful arrangements
for our comfortable journey to the Himalayas. His thoughts then
turned once more upon himself. He ordered in, and exhibited
with much pride, his state-robes, among them the one in which we
had seen him at the concert in Calcutta. All of them were stiffened
with jewels. Estimated together, with his paternal shield and sword,
their value is half «. million dollars. |
Taking a final leave, we returned to our pavilion, expecting
that our late dinner would be a quiet one. We were mistaken, }
At the moment when the dessert came upon the table, the Minister
of Public Affairs announced an exhibition of fire-works in the gar. |
den. We walked through a section of it which we had not previ-
ously had time to explore, and, amid the murmuring of cascades,
took our seats in the balcony of a little palace or pavilion, the cou.
terpart of the one in which we reside. The pyrotechnic exhibition
had all the variety of our similar displays at home, but in excess, |
A party of a hundred artists on each side of the oblong lake were to
alternate with a corresponding corps on the opposite side. These
performers were, however, so emulous that, instead of making such
a measured display as they intended, tiie whole exhibition went of
simultaneously. There were lanterns, transparencies, rockets, ser
pents, trees, wheels, stars, ribbons, candles, balloons, naval fights
and bombardments; all these illuminations being reflected from the
surface of the clear, smooth lake and surrounding cascades and foun-
tains. The unexpected activity of the performers, while it produced
much perplexity and confusion, had, nevertheless, one compensation
for us; within twenty minutes from the time the display began,
sun, moon, stars, dragons, serpents, and balloons, were expiring al
around us, leaving only blackened frame-works on the ground. §
| brimmed
Departure
—Re
Comr
Apr
stant, b
had pla
last sta
to lunch
of the J
try over
metallic
rying fre
tains, J
head ag ]
it with a
wear the
this subj¢
country,
arriving §
would ga
to enjoy
on that q
to England, and
fe presented his
_ to write from
hen asked for a
ngton, in which
y interest in that
+t, The mahara-
fal arrangements
lis thoughts then
in, and exhibited
» one in which we
hem were stiffened
1 shield and sword,
pavilion, expecting
Ve were mistaken. J
table, the Minister
re-works in the gar- |
1 we had not previ
muring of cascades,
pavilion, the coun-
rotechnic exhibition
ome, but in excess,
oblong lake were to
posite side. These
tead of making such
exhibition went off
rencies, rockets, ser
loons, naval fights
g reflected from the
o cascades and foun:
brs, While it produced
ss, one compensatiol
> the display begit,
ns, were expiring dl
s on the ground.
CHAPTER XIII.
A GLANCE AT THE HIMALAYAS.
Departure from Putteeala—Along the Banks of the Jumna.—Protection from the Sun.
—Reception at Pindarrie—An Illumination —Kalka and Kussowlee.—The British
Commissioner.—A View of the Himalayas.—An Irish Home.
April 3d.—We left Putteeala, on the morning of the 1st in-
stant, by a train of four-horse post-coaches, which the maharajah
had placed at our service, and, under a farewell salute, began the
last stage of our excursion to the Himalayas. After stopping here
to lunch, we continued the journey thirty-five miles alung the banks
of the Jumna, making in all sixty-nine miles. Though the coun-
try over which we passed seemed sandy and barren, yet the firm
metallic roads were crowded with bullock and dak mule-trains car-
rying freights to the troops, dwellers, and sojourners, in the moun-
tains. All classes here regard the sun as their chief enemy, and the
head as his point of attack. The natives, not content with covering
it with a thick turban, draw all their garments over it, and even
wear their pallet beds upon it. For ourselves, we have divided on
this subject. The ladies wear the solar ¢opees (pith hats) of the
country, while Mr. Seward adheres tenaciously to his light, broad-
| brimmed “ Panama.” As the night came on, the dak animals,
arriving at their frequent stations, were unharnessed, and, as they
would say on the Plains, were “corralled.” Their drivers sat down
to enjoy their frugal meals under the trees. The breeze, however,
on that day awakened a driving, blinding sand-storm, bringing on
472
thick darkness. Our road, sometimes crossing river-channels, now
dry, and then winding across orchards of mango, tamarind, and
date-palm trees, on the plain, became uncertain and wuasafe. The
only lights which appeared in the lonely journey were by no means
inspiriting.
BRITISH INDIA.
Ti
They were Hindoo obsequies, and
“All around
Glared evermore the frequent funeral-piles.”
The fearful sand-storm was laid by a pouring rain, which only
made the darkness more intense. We were about sinking with fi.
tigne and apprehension, when our spirits were roused by innumer-
able torch-lights. The people of Pindarrie, a town belonging to
the Maharajah of Putteeala, looking for our arrival, had come out
to meet us on the plain. Under this cheering illumination, they
presented to us their “submission,” and tendered the hospitalities
of the place. They conducted us through crowded streets, and we
alighted under a broad, high gate. Received here, we passed, by
the light of the torches, a series of tountains with intervening cas.
eades, like those of Putteeaia—our guides at the same time ip-
forming us that the walks had been illuminated, put, much to their
disappointment and grief, the storm had extinguished the lights,
A pavilion in the spacious garden received us for the night. It
differed from our house at Putteeala, being of purer Hindoo archi-
tecture, instead of being Moorish with European accessories. The
dinner provided for us, though elaborate, did not detain us long,
Clambering high, steep stairways, and passing through narrow
corridors, we reached a suite of apartments, with balconies over
looking the fountains. We were most reluctantly awakened two
hours later by an announcement that the storm was over, and that
the garden was illuminated for our special entertainment. It is
not in human nature to resist persevering kindness timidly offered.
We dressed and performed with all alacrity the duty expected of
us as admiring spectators. The light, refracted and streaming
through the cascades, gathered into brightness over them, and glis-
tening on the dripping foliage up through the orange-trees, lost it
self in the pale, glimmering rays of the half-clouded moon. Unlike
our ex
cial Pi
Orient
phere,
tling: Te
ion, in.
avode
fullen ;
wage W
allied a
a strong
The tris
as the si
a range
The
Kalka, a
In reach
cutta, a
evidene
perceptil
thousand
Himalay
Mountai
rude sed:
i8 oblige
took jhar
raising ]h
high up
Like all
down ded
we had t]
in front,
head. O
tain-side,
4 similar
an indefir
r-channels, now
, tamarind, and
nd wasafe.
ere by no means
The
rain, which only
sinking with fa-
used by innumer-
wn. belonging to
val, had come out
illumination, they
d the hospitalities
ed streets, and we
ore, we passed, by
1 intervening cas
he same time in-
put, much to their
ruished the lights
for the night. It
turer Hindoo archi-
accessories. The
hot detain us long,
y through narrow
ith balconies over
tlv awakened two
was over, and that
tertainment. It is
ess timidly offered.
e duty expected of
ted and streaming
over them, and glis
range-trees, lost it
ded moon. Unlike
RIDE TO KUSSOWLEE. 473
our experience at “the metropolis,” our sleep that night in provin-
cial Pindarrie was not a complete success. Our house was indeed
Oriental in its appointments as well as in construction. The atmos-
phere, cooled by the stor.a, was refreshing, and the music of rus-
tling leaves and falling waters was soothing, but the princely pavil-
ion, inhabited only on occasions like the present, has become the
avode of owls, bats, rats, lizards, and centipedes. We had hardly
fillen into a second slumber, when we were aroused this time to
wage war with those malignant disturbers of human repose. The
allied army was more than once put to flight, but it came back with
a strong reénforcement of well-disciplined and practical mosquitoes.
The trial was attended by only one equivalent : it enabled us to see,
as the storm cleared away, and the full moon resumed her splendor,
arange of the Himalayas stretching across the northern horizon.
The next morning, at an early hour, we drove four miles to
Kalka, at the base of the mountains, the end of the carriage-road.
In reaching Kalka, we had come twelve hundred miles from Cal-
cutta, and gained an elevation of two thousand feet, without other
evidence of it than a somewhat lower temperature, and a slightly
perceptible difference of vegetation. We were now to climb five
thousand feet higher, to the summit of the lowest range of the
Himalayas, at Kussowlee, and to do this in a journey of nine miles.
Mountain-travel here is done in three ways; by the jhampau, a
rude sedan-chair ; the palkee, a covered litter, in which the passenger
is obliged to lie down; or in the saddle with mules and ponies. We
took jhampaus and ponies. At the moment of departure, our guide,
raising his arm almost perpendicularly, pointed to a white object,
high up the mountain-acclivity, and said, “ Behold Kussowlee! ”
Like all mountain-roads, these are engineered by torrents winding
down deep, irregular, and dark ravines or cafions. At one moment
we had the sun on our right, then quickly on our left, sometimes
in front, and sometimes at our back, and as often directly over-
head. Often we descended, by a long road hewn from the moun-
tain-side, into shaded dells, and crossed noisy brooks, only to rise by
a similar acclivity to higher hill-tops. Sometimes we looked for
an indefinite distance over the smiling plain of the Jumna, almost
aang
€ &
te
~~ o « ne CST
@ & ®
a tt
BRITISH INDIA.
474
fancying that we saw its junction with the Ganges, and then sud.
denly found ourselves imprisoned within lowering, frowning walls
of mountain-rocks. We passed a fortification, which, before the
British occupation, protected the peaceful lowlanders against incur.
sions from the wild and more vigorous invaders from Afghanistan,
It hung so long over our heads that we thought this castle must
mark the end of our journey. With much surprise, we «fterward
found ourselves looking down upon the same fortification, and 25
yet we were more than five miles from Kussowlee. The date-paim
maintains its foothold for only a short distance on the mountain-
side. Wheat-fields are seen at the height of three thousand feet,
Taose below are quite ready for the sickle, while the uppermost
fields show the bluish-green blade, as we sce it ut home, when just
unveiled from the snow. Wheat will be gathered on the banks of
the Potomac long before that which is growing on these mountain.
terraces. The palm and the mango gave place chiefly to the low
candelabra cactus, which seems to require neither depth of soil nor
constant moisture. This showy plant intermingles with elders and
alders, white, blue, yellow, purple, and crimson mountain-flowers,
here and there a dwarf rhododendron, and profuse “ Virginia creep-
ers.” At the height of four thousand feet, the cactus gives up the
struggle, and the small plateaus are covered with low spreading
pines, with trunks of not more than eight inches in diameter. The
road now becomes more steep, the precipices more abrupt. It is
the season of drought. The mountain-sia ‘s are brown. There is,
nevertheless, in every dell, a village or hamlet, the houses mainly
built of sand-stone, with thatched-roofs, and surrounded by stacks of
hay and small herds of small cattle, much more sleek and fat than
those which are raised on the plains. Travellers who have visited the
eastern part of the Himalayas tell us that, on heights greater than
those which we reached, they found forests of oak and laurel. We
did not see the eagle which those travellers describe as soaring over
the mountain-peaks, nor the monkey which they say pelts the
passer-by in the valley of Cashmere. Before we reached Kussowlee,
thick clouds arose, as is their wont, leaving no towering peak, pin-
nacle, or distant range of mountains visible. Kussowlec, a not in
consid
a smal
vided
over U
comm:
come §
The B
sally fo
ment a
darrie,
the sky
hastene
ing east
up to tl
of dazzl
we were
mantle.
ior sno
appearer
we were
meté hal
At
valley i
the plai
that froi
to study
From
through
the Afg
left with
Kussow]
found tl
large pay
nor the q
it the no
ant and
, and then sud-
, frowning walls
hich, before the
rs against incur-
om Afghanistan,
t this castle must
ise, we efterward
tification, and 5
The date-palm
n the mountain-
ee thousand feet,
le the uppermost
; home, when just
1 on the banks of
n these mountain-
chiefly to the low
depth of soil nor
les with elders and
mountain-flowers,
e Virginia creep-
actus gives up the
ith low spreading
in diameter. The
ore abrupt. It is
brown. There is,
the houses mainly
nded by stacks of
sleek and fat than
rho have visited the
ights greater than
k and laurel. We
ibe as soaring over
hey say pelts the
reached Kussowlee,
owering peak, pin-
ussowlee, a not in-
A GLIMPSE OF THE HIMALAYAS, 475
considerable native town, is now occupied with army hospitals an]
asmall garrison. Major Parsons, commissioner at Simla, had y: 0-
vided for us * pleasant lodge in the village. A lassitude c.me
over us in consequence of our travelling in the upper air, and this
commingled with feelings of disappointment that, although we had
come so far to see the Himalayas, we were to see only their base.
The British officers, considerate and hospitable, as we have univer-
sally found them, allowed us two hours for rest, before the entertain-
ment at which we were to receive their families. Here, as at Pin-
darrie, we were awakened prematurely, but more to our satisfaction ;
the sky had brightened, and tae snow-clad range was visible. We
hastened to the veranda, and the Himalayas confronted us, stretch-
ing east and west as far as the eye could reach, looming half-way
up to the centre of the heavens. The crest was an undulating field
of dazzling snow; but presto, change! Even at the moment when
we were aiming the telescope, black spots descended on that white
mantle. The clouds came back again. Thenceforth, neither rocks
nor snow-fields were to be seen. The distant Himalayas had dis-
appeared as suddenly as they had come before us. Nevertheless,
we were content. We stood on the giant’s foot, and for one mo-
met.t had looked him fully in the face.
At mid-day the horizon cleared, and we saw, eastward, the
valley in which the mighty Ganges has his cradle; and, westward,
the plain in which not only the Indus has its fountains, but also
that from which the Jhylum and Sutlej spring. It was something
to study, from this stand-point, the geography of the continent.
From our eminence we distinctly traced the mountain-passes
through which the northern invaders of India came—the Tartar,
the Afghan, the Persian, and even the great Macedonian. We
left with regret the interesting society which gathered around us at
Kussowlee. As we descended the mountain, we remarked that we
found this portion of the Himalayas as sterile and dull during a
large part of the year as the Rocky Mountains. Neither the one
nor the other can be cultivated without partial irrigation, but with
it the now desolate valleys and table-lands may be made as luxuri-
ant and beautiful as the peaks which rise above them are sublime.
476 BRITISH INDIA.
"t was nightfall when we reached our Hindoo resting-place at
Findarric. All the way down, the guides were on the lookout
for panthers, which infest this fine Government road, but we saw
no wild-beast of any kind, though we heard all around us the
mournful and distracting of the jackal. Cakes, tea, and
wine, awaited us at Kalka—a gencrous supper, with renewed and
successful illumination of the fountains, at Pindarrie.
Simple, gentle mountaineers! Pleased above all other pleas.
ures when pleasing the stranger. When shall we see again hos.
pitalities Jike those of town and country in Putteeala ?
Taking our leave as soon as possible, we resumed our carriages
at eleven o’clock, and by the light of the now unclouded moon we
made our way down the bank of the Jumna, and found the gates
and door of Major Tigh’s Irish home wide open at three o’clock
in the morning. What a happy realm Great Britain would be, if
the English and the Gaelic elements were combined as harmoni-
ously in the entire population of the islands as they are in that
genial dwelling!
THE HIMALAYAS,
An Inte
Mou
age
Anit
Go
late he
at daw
roy fro
W
in the
dining
The v
of Sim
have j
to-mor
vitatio
India
comes
Ea
10n
and geni
while on
Our exea
India, ad
> resting-place at
e on the lookout
road, but we saw
11 around us the
Cakes, tea, and
with renewed and
rrie.
re all other pleas.
we see again hos.
eala ?
med our carriages
nclouded moon we
id found the gates
en at three o’clock
ritain would be, if
bined as harmoni-
s they are in that
CHAPTER XIV.
ALLAHABAD AND JUBBULPOOR.
An Interesting Debate.—Earl Mayo, the Viceroy of India.—His Murder.—The Vindhya
Mountains.—Industrial Activity of Jubbulpoor.—An Elephant Ride.—A Night Voy-
age on the Nerbudda.—Romantic and Beautiful Scenery.—Hindoo Tenderness for
Animals,
Government ITouse, Allahabad, April 6th.—We arrived at a
late hour last night. The rest which was so needful was broken
at dawn by martial music. A detachment was escorting the vice-
roy from the railway-station to Government Fouse.
We have had the good fortune to hear a very interesting debate
in the Legislative Council, over which he presides, and also of
dining with him and the members of that distinguished body.
The viceroy is on his way with his court to the summer capital
of Simla, in the same lower range of the Himalayas from which we
have just descended. He rests here to-night, and the day after
tomorrow he will hold the great durbar at Lucknow. ‘The in-
vitations to us to witness it are earnest, but the entire press of —
India is warning us to leave the country before the intense heat
comes on.
Earl Mayo’ has won our grateful regard by the studious care he
'On the 8th of May, 1872, this wise and benevolent statesman, able magistrate,
and genial friend, received his death at the hands of a Mohammedan political prisoner,
while on a tour of inspection of the penitentiary at Port Blair, in the Andaman Islands.
Our exeellent friend Lord Napier, as Governor of Madras, succeeded him as Viceroy of
India, ad interim,
Lae
eS eeey a
$3 > Feee &
— a ne a Ed
W &€ @7we 2
©
2
cad
=~ KBESR Ze
478 BRITISH INDIA.
has practised for our safety, comfort, and instruction, during our
travels in the country. Mr. Seward is highly gratified in having
had this opportunity to renew his acknowledgments, and to
assure the viceroy of the evidences he finds everywhere of the
success of his administration.
We take our departure to-night, and with it our regrets that we
have not language to express to Sir William Muir and his family
our appreciation and gratitude for all their kindness.
Jubbulpoor, April 8th.—We left Allahabad at midnight and
opened our eyes this morning on a broad table-land of the Vin.
dhya Mountains, the range which, traversing Hindostan from east
to west, parts the tributaries of the Ganges from those of the
Nerbudda and the Indus. These mountains, better known in carly
geography as the north border of the Deccan, intersect the lofty
Ghauts which stretch from Cape Comorin quite up to the Himala.
yas. This region is less densely inhabited and more sparingly cul.
tivated than the plain of the Ganges. Aboriginal tribes are still
existing here, which have survived all the political changes of
two thor .and years, and still retain their primitive languages, re.
ligions, and customs.
Jubbulpoor exhibits much industrial activity. It is for West-
ern India what Ogden is for the western region of the United
States. The railways from Bombay, Madras, and Caleutta, meet
here. Mr. Grant, commissioner for the province, has received
us with the same British hospitality and courtesies that have
made our sojourn in India so agreeable. In this inclement sea-
son few Europeans travel even on the railways during the day,
and none go abroad in any other way except at night. Nothing
remains for us, therefore, on our arrival, but to enjoy a most wel-
come sleep.
April 9th.—Carriages were in waiting at our door last evening,
and we drove through the pretty suburb of the town, and into the
open country. Night had fully set in when we reached a wooded
As we descended from the carriages, two grim elephants
glen.
kneel
in th
of the
secure
fasten
enoug
half a
fordin
At the
hangit
meand
then v
and fi
Patien
voyage
absorb
a mou
ledges
its ser
of the
covere
nacles
of supe
The ri
The ws
rocky
shadow
Now tl
luminay
tening,
on the
seemed
like Be
turbed
overha
hunger,
tion, during our
tified in having
minents, and to
erywhere of the
r regrets that we
ir and his family
$8.
at midnight and
Jand of the Vin.
dostan from east
om those of the
known in early
itersect the lofty
ip to the Himala.
ore sparingly cul-
al tribes are still
itical changes of
ive languages, re-
It is for West-
n of the United
d Caleutta, meei
ce, has received
tesies that have
is inclement sea-
s during the day,
night. Nothing
enjoy a most wel-
door last evening,
own, and into the
reached a wooded
o grim elephants
A NIGHT VOYAGE. 479
kneeled before us. These animals are used instead of ambulances
in the army. A rough board or pannier is swung on either side
of the elephant, with a swinging stirrup below it. The rider is
secured to his seat, if he need, by a rope round his waist, which is
fastened to the animal’s head. Our elephants, though docile
enough, were young and impatient. They tramped four miles in
half an hour, in the dark, along a narrow path through the jungle,
fording a broad and deep stream on the way, greatly to our terror.
At the end of the march, we stood at the door of a dak bungalow,
hanging half-way down a rocky precipice, with the Nerbudda
meandering at its base. We rested an hour in the bungalow, and
then with the aid of guides made our way cautiously three hundred
and fifty feet down, and took our seats in a flat-bottomed boat.
Patient Hindoos applied themselves noiselessly to the oars, and the
voyage Which we began, though dull at first, soon became one of
absorbing interest. The Nerbudda here forces its passage through
a mountain of white marble, and is twisted right and left by
ledges projecting from either bank. The deep, dark river moves in
its serpentine channel without perceptible current. The summits
of the banks, changing position with every stroke of the oars, are
covered with forest-trees, over the tops of which are seen the pin-
nacles of innumerable Hindoo temples, raised here by a sentiment
of superstitious reverence for scenery so romantic and beautiful.
The river has the breadth of the Delaware at the famous Gap.
The waning moon now rose over our heads. First, the one white
rocky bank received the silvery light, while the other was in dark
shadow, then the other, and then, for only an instant, both shores.
Now the temples and tree-tops intercepted the rays, then the
luminary was reflected entire by the clear, still waters. The glis-
tening, winding precipices, now in light, and now in shade, took
on the shapes of castles, palaces, cathedrals, and temples. It
seemed as if we were passing beneath the ruins of some vast capital
like Benares. A dead silence prevailed, except that the owl, dis-
turbed by our coming, poured forth his sad complaints from the
overhanging rocks, and the jackal shrieked his despairing cry of
hunger, All the while the river was smooth, and alternately black
34
a
]
Ia
4
‘ie
480 BRITISH INDIA.
or shimmering in the moonlight. Suddenly our barge trembled,
the stream beneath it brcxe into rapids, and we heard coming up
before us the rumbling sound of a cataract. The voyage was
finished. Returning by the same gentle beating of the oars, we
studied under a more constant light all these enchantments in
detail. The moon withdrew her light as we climbed the rugged
bank and reached the bungalow. Then, laying aside our ambition
for elephantine pomp, we contentedly took our seats in a jaunting.
car, before which were harnessed two little white bullocks, leaving
the elephants to follow with the servants. Our driver had an odd
way of inciting the animals. Whenever they stopped, he had only
to pull their tails, and away they went over hill and dale, down the
crooked ravine, and through the perilous ford, with such speed that
they reached the station half an hour before the stately elephants,
who came up at their appointed time. Here we resumed our car-
riages. During the livelong night, wild beasts held high carnival
around us on our homeward way. Jackals filled the air with their
howls, and wild-boars dashed across the road, scarcely taking care
to avoid the hoofs of our horses.
It is almost enough to raise a doubt of the unity of the hu-
man race, when one is called to contrast the perverse tenderness
of the Hindoos toward animals, with the vigorous war which all
other races make to subjugate or exterminate them. This tendcr-
ness is a fruit of the national Pythagorean philosophy, whose
element is transmigration, and teaches that the souls of men, after
death, enter the bodies of animals. To what height of absurdity has
this idea been carried! The Thugs, now happily suppressed, found
in it a religious warrant for plundering and strangling men, divid-
ing the spoils with their altar of Kali. No Hindoo can be induced
to pursue the tiger, the lion, or even the cobra de capello. It must
have been in Hindostan that Mr. Darwin found his theory, which
derives man from the monkey. The Hindoo farmer not only
allows the simian race to feed on his growing crops and fruits, but
also to glean in the harvest field. We felicitated the gardener at
Putteeala on his fine crop of oranges. He responded that the
monkeys would carry off the largest portion of the fruit. We
never
barge trembled,
ieard coming up
he voyage was
of the oars, we
nchantments in
bed the rugged
ide our ambition
ts in a jaunting-
bullocks, leaving
river had an odd
ped, he had only
.d dale, down the
h such speed that
stately elephants,
resumed our car-
veld high carnival
the air with their
urcely taking care
unity of the hu-
rverse tenderness
us war which all
bm. This tender-
iilosophy, whose
buls of men, after
t of absurdity has
suppressed, found
gling men, divid-
o ean be induced
capello, It must
his theory, which
farmer not only
ps and fruits, but
1 the gardener at
sponded that the
f the fruit. We
THIEVING MONKEYS. 481
asked him why he did not drive them off.
away, but they come back again.”
“Why do you not kill them ?”
“Oh!” he replied, “if a man should kill one of those filchine
fellows, a hundred of them would
come together, and tl 7
never leave that man alive.” . eters
“We do frighten them
ee
THE NERBUDDA,
#e
be
aeeya 9a Fg
—-_ =
# 86 & ervey
ae
CHAPTER XV.
BOMBAY.
The Ghaut Mountains.—A Cosmopolitan City.—The Natives of Bombay.—A Mixed Pop.
ulation.—Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, Afghan, and Cashmerian—
The Races of the South and the North, of the East and the West.—Parsee Customs,
—Parsee Religion.—Hindoo, Mokammeduan, and Parsee Disposal of the Dead.—Ad.
miral Cockburn.—The Great Heat.—An Excursion to Elephanta.
United States Consulate, Bombay, April 138th.— We arrived here
on the 11th, The two mountain-ranges of the west coast of In.
dia, called the Eastern and Western Ghauts, resemble our own
Alleghanies. Their loftiest peaks are several thousand fect high.
Although our journey from Jubbulpoor lay across both ranges, the
highest plateau we crossed was two thousand feet. The largest
cotton-fields of India are found in the valleys of the Nerbudda and
the Taptee. Marvellous engineering has been practised in bring.
ing the railway down from the plain of Nerbudda to the valley of
the Taptee, which carries the ocean-tide up to the once great and
now not unimportant port of Surat, one hundred and sixty miles
north of Bombay.
Our first impression on arriving here was that Bombay is more
cosmopolitan than any other city in India. We experienced a feel:
ing almost of regret when we left the cosy railway-car, which, for
nearly a month, had been our rolling home. The stars and stripes
were floating over the consulate not far from the railway station,
and Mr. Farnham, the consul here, was awaiting our arrival. The
Governor of Bombay, Sir Seymour Fitzgerald, sent a secretary to
tend
also
Jejec
stanc
separ
looks
enous
stretc
uneqt
and C
also it
custor
tween
inhabi
favorit
almost
The r
with (
enable
people
popula
has a
Bazaar
There
chant,
lese of
merian
bearing
of Goa,
the Ar
from t]
and gai
under
chant v
and hog
cil, Wa
Bombay.—A Mixed Pop.
shan, and Cashmerian.—
West.—Parsee Customs,
posal of the Dead.—Ad-
nanta.
—We arrived here
e west coast of In-
resemble our own
thousand fect high.
bss both ranges, the
feet. The largest
the Nerbudda and
practised in bring
da to the valley of
the once great and
red and sixty miles
at Bombay is more
e experienced a feel:
lway-car, which, for
he stars and stripe:
the railway station,
g our arrival, The
, sent 4 secretary to
POPULATION OF BOMBAY. 483
tender us the hospitalities of Government House, and we found,
also awaiting us, that eminent native gentleman, Sir Jamsetjec
Jejeebhoy, with his three sons. Although the city of Bombay
stands on an island, the railway-traveller is not made aware of its
separation from the main-land. The terraced shore of the island
looks across a bay, studded with lesser islands, and capacious
enough for the commerce of the world. Lofty promontories,
stretching out from the coast, divide the harbor into three not
unequal basins. The native population here, more than in Madras
and Calcutta, have engaged in European commerce, and they have
also in a considerable degree come to adopt Western usages and
customs. Indeed, it needs a close examination to distinguish be-
tween the streets and dwellings occupied by the natives and those
inhabited by Europeans. The cocoa-nut palm seems a universal
favorite for purposes of shade and ornament. It embowers and
almost conceals the homes of the million inhabitants of Bombay.
The railroad system, recently completed, which connects the city
with Calcutta, as well as with the peninsula and the Punjab, has
enabled Bombay to supplant Calcutta as the gate of India. The
people of Calcutta are sharply divided between the native Hindoo
population and the resident Europeans. Bombay, on the contrary,
hasa mixed population. You see this the moment you enter the
Bazaar, for so is called the part of the city devoted to native trade.
There the inevitable and versatile Chinaman—who is seaman, mer-
chant, and banker—the effeminate Siamese, Javanese, and Cinga-
lese of the south, mingle with the sturdy Sikh, Afghan, and Cash-
merian of the north. The native Mahratta stalks with haughty
bearing through the streets, followed by the Portuguese half-castes
of Goa. The black native of Madagascar is here, with the Persian,
the Arab, the Abyssinian, the Syrian, the Turk, and the Greek
from the Levant. Here in Bombay, moreover, Asiatics aspire to
and gain high commercial rank, and social and political positions,
under the liberal patronage of the government. The Parsee mer-
chant vies with the educated Hindoo in establishing charity-schools
and hospitals, and both alike obtain seats in the Legislative Coun-
cil. We have come even thus early under equal obligations to emu-
484 BRITISH INDIA.
lous members of the two emulous classes. We were entertained at
dinner on the 10th at Government House by Sir Seymour Fitzger-
ald and his mother. Some fifty ladies and gentlemen, all English,
including the Bishop of Bombay, the members of the Legislative
Council, and many officers of the army, were present. Though the
dining-hall is furnished after the English fashion, the house is q
spacious bungalow of one story, like most such structures in the
tropics, with an encircling veranda as wide as the house. Our
entertainment yesterday was equally hospitable, but of a very dif:
ferent character. Manockjee Cursetjee, our Parsee host, with his
two sons, stood at the basement-door of a square house of four lofty
stories. Kvery apartment of the house looks out upon either the
sea or the city. Although it was not yet dark, every chamber was
brilliantly illuminated. We thought, at first, that this style of
dwelling belonged exclusively to the Parsee, but we have found
out since that the Hindoo emulates the Parsee in the height of the
house and the brilliancy of its lights. The Parsee’s palace affords
every convenience and comfort except the necessary easy staircase,
We declined the offer of being carricd up by chairs, and ascended
instead the corkscrew which leads to the fourth story, where we
were received in a grand salon by the accomplished daughters of
our host. They were dressed exquisitely in the native costume,
except that they were guilty of offence against the national sense of
propriety by covering their feet with shoes, and their hands with
gloves. Manockjee Cursetjece, Esquire, is a Parsee of good family,
native here, who acquired an English education, and studied law in
the English university. Having obtained a judicial appointment
from the government, and discharged its functions for some years
with ability and success, he visited England and trsvelled exten.
sively throughout Europe, being everywhere received in high
circles. His daughters, who have been instructed by English gov-
ernesses, have also travelled in Europe, and they are understood to
be the first Hindoo ladies who have done so. His two sons were
educated at Oxford and Cambridge. The ladies assured us that
when travelling in Europe they adopted the Western costume, but
they conform here to the Oriental habits and the dress of their
peop
tion.
but b
entire
nel-sl
has b
throu,
trom
progr
upon th
I
tion,
certain
The R
thing, ;
less thar
the ver
of discip
PARSEE CHILDREN, 485
H)
re entertained at
Seymour Fitzger-
men, all English,
yf the Legislative
mt. Though the
n, the house is a
structures in the
the house. Our
but of a very dif-
see host, with his
people. The gentlemen make a compromise on the clothes ques
tion. They were dressed at dinner faultlessly in European fachio :
but had on scarlet-velvet caps; while the father, throughout ihe
entire evening, wore that strange, uncomfortable illlookin a
ael-shaped hat, by which the disciple of Biihaste is ae ae
has been known a thousand years, wherever he has been ies
trongnont the whole world. Probably asceticism is inseparable
from devation:; certainly it has revealed itself at some fae ie the
progress of every religion. Moreover, asceticism has always acteod
house of four lofty
t upon either the
very chamber was
that this style of
ut we have found
n the height of the
see’s palace atiords
sary easy staircase,
airs, and ascended
th story, where we
ished daughters of
1e native costume,
he national sense of
d their hands with
see of good family,
and studied law in
hdicial appointment
ons for some year's
nd trevelled exten
received in high
ted by English gov:
y are understood to
His two sons were
ies assured us that
estern costume, but
h the dress of theit
PARSEF CHILDREN.
upon the head to make it bear witness to the principle of humilia-
tion, In Christian countries, the Friends and Shakers south
certain rules for wearing the hair and for the shape of the hist
the Roman Catholic orders, regular and voluntary, do the same
thing, though not precisely in the same way. The Buddhist no
less than the Dominican requires the bare and shaven head. At
the very foundation of the Christian Church, Paul made it a ini
of discipline that man onght not to “cover his head,” nor women
32
an GE & 82 F
a ne
W 8 Bz
“—
&
#¥%
CRSRSMY E
A
Te
FEE Z ce
486 BRITISH INDIA.
to wear “broidered hair.” So rigid are the Parsees on the same
subject that it is not lawful for one of the sect, man, woman, or
child, to have an uncovered head within-doors or out-of-doors, by
day or by night, awake or asleep. Perhaps this observation may
not be thought entirely worthless, since it shows how inseparably
manners are allied to morals. The intelligent Parsee insists that
he worships not the sun nor fire, but that he adores one Supreme
Spiritual God, though he admits that he reveres fire and the sun
as an identical manifestation of the Deity. “He does not claim, how.
ever, that the unenlightened members of the sect make, or are capa.
ble of making, this distinction. It is certain that every evening,
wherever we may be, whether on the strand or on the terrace, we
see the Parsee stop, stand still, and stretch forth his hands to the
retiring god of day, in a posture of devout adoration. The Parsee
temples are singulariy plain. They contain nothing which is es.
teemed sacred except the fires which burn on the altars, and which,
according to their belief, have never been extinguished. Their reli.
gion does not forbid animal food, nor are they divided into castes,
but the sect has uaconsciously taken upon itself the Asiatic idea of
excluding women from society, and the Hindoo practice of premz-
ture marriage. Notwithstanding their accommodation in this
respect to the customs of those around them, Parsees are more
intelligent, inquiring, and enterprising, than any other class of
society in the East. In all foreign countries, they bear the charac.
ter of honorable and liberal merchants. Here, where they are at
home, their honor is sometimes questioned, but their enterprise is
universally conceded. Their light complexion and regular features
prove them to be of a higher Caucasian type than the Hindoos.
In our drive yesterday, we passed a gate which disclosed an
open area filled with the blaze of Hindoo pyres. We stopped to
inquire into the form of the ceremony. Religion as well as custom
requires that the nearest of kin shall apply the torch and watch
the flames. The devout Bramin does not doubt that this act of
piety performed by a son secures an instant opening of the gates
of paradise to the departed parent. They tell us that until lately
these burning ghauts were open on all sides, that they were found
offens
to ind
at lea
chang
wall n
A
cemete
Last of
enclose
grove «
foliage,
tects a
firmly-1
iron gre
as they
miscuor
this giv:
the eagl
was not
then of
so that
sacred ]
which ]
of his, a
body fir
to ashes
Apri
a3 much
graphed
Seward
all class
that the
times, tr
ing the ]
| pox is ra
sees on the same
man, woman, or
r out-of-doors, by
observation may
; how inseparably
Parsee insists that
ores one Supreme
s fire and the sun
es not claim, how-
make, or are capa-
rat every evening,
on the terrace, we
‘h his hands to the
tion. The Parsee
thing which is es-
e altars, and which,
nished. Their reli-
divided into castes,
the Asiatic idea of
) practice of prema-
modation in this
, Parsees are more
any other class of
hey bear the charac-
, where they are at
t their enterprise is
and regular features
an the Hindoos.
which disclosed an
res. We stopped to
on as well as custo
he torch and watch
bubt that this act of
ypening of the gates
1] us that until lately
hat they were fount
MODES OF BURIAL. 487
offensive, and that the British Government made strenuous efforts
to induce the Bramirs to discontiuue the practice of “remation, or
at least to remove the scene to a more sccluded place. The Aidiy
change, however, which could be secured, was the consent that a
wall might be erected around the ghaut.
A large enclosure adjoins the ghauts. It is a Mohammedan
cemetery. Their monuments and graves are not unlike our own
Last of all, we came to the Parsee’s home of the dead. It isa hill.
enclosed with a very high wall. On the summit there is a ‘ladiee
grove of lofty palms ; in the centre of this grove, and high above its
foliage, rises the “ Tower of Silence.” The tower encloses and pro-
tects a dark, deep, open well, and across the top of the tower isa
firmly-fixed grating of iron bars. The dead body is laid upon this
iron grate, the flesh to be the food of the birds of the air; the bones
as they fall asunder from exposure and decay, to drop into the ayo
miscnous pit below. The Parsee who was our guide protests that
this giving up the remains of friends and kindred to the vulture
the eagle, and the raven, seems horrible to him ; wherefore, when fe
was not long ago called upon to deposit the remains first of a wife,
then of a daughter, he protected them with a strong metallic screen
so that the remains were left to natural decomposition from the
sacred heat of the sun, and were absorbed in the pure atmosphere
which he enlightens. We, of course, commended this refinement
of bi although, to our minds, the truest mode of disposing of the
body from which the spirit has ‘ted is “ear ; S
ea ioe departed is “earth to earth, ashes
April 14th.—When in Northern India, we hastened our journey
ag much as possible to meet Admiral Cockburn, who had tele-
graphed us that he was waiting with the Forte, to convey Mr.
Seward and his party up the Persian Gulf. On our arrival here
all classes of Europeans, Americans, and natives alike, snpteetad
that the season is too far advanced. As it so often happens at such
times, travellers and letters have come down from Muscat, describ-
ing the heat there as absolutely frightful. They add that the small-
pox is raging throughout the country, that a famine is extensively
mega & #8378
ae — =
¥ 8 e7st7 gH errs
ie,
=
488 BRITISH INDIA.
prevailing, and finally that insurrection and civil war have broken
out. Admiral Cockburn, prudent as he is generous, has been de.
terred by these representations. Under his advice, therefore, we
have relinquished the cherished purpose of visiting Muscat, Bagdad,
and the ruins of Nineveh and Babylon.
* We must pass by the many recherché entertainments given us
by British residents in their beautiful villas on Malabar Hill, g
place worth a graphic description.
But if we neglect contemporaries, we cannot afford to be thought
less of the ancients. Yesterday we made a steam-yacht excursion
in the harbor, with several Indies and gentlemen, among them the
eminent Mahratta physician and scholar, Dr. Bhau Daji. The sail
disclosed to us the beautiful environs of Bombay, especially the
harbor and islands. The landing at Elephanta Island is represented
by travellers as very difficult, but the Duke of Edinburgh was here,
and, of course, the caves of Elephanta must be shown, at whatever
cost, to the scion of England’s royal line. In this emergency, the
municipality of Bombay issued bonds and erected a convenient pier.
We, alien republicans, now landed on that very wharf, not unmind-
ful of our obligations to the Council of Bombay, or of our good
fortune in coming after, and not before, Victoria’s sailor son. We
ascended an easy flight of stone steps to a plateau one hundred and
fifty feet above the sea. This esplanade as well as the entire island
is deeply shaded with the beautiful, round-topped Palmyra palm.
A decrepit Irish soldier, with his family, in a bamboo shanty,
thatched with banana and palm leaves, keeps watch and ward over
the place. Passing to the centre of the plateau and turning to the
right, we confronted a work of human art, gigantic and marvelous.
It is a subterranean temple. The builders, beginning half-way up
the mountain declivity, and cutting down perpendicularly, have
removed the mountain-face to the depth of thirty feet, and to the
width of three hundred fect. The perpendicular wall thus disclosed
is of basalt. This rock, they have hewn and chiselled away to the
very centre of the mountain, and wrought it into a temple with
perfect architectural forms and just proportions. The excavation
consists of four chambers, the central one is majestic with gateways,
| war have broken
ous, has been de-
rice, therefore, we
e Muscat, Bagdad,
ninments given us
1 Malabar Hill, a
ford to be thought-
m-yacht excursion
, among them the
iu Daji. The sail
bay, especially the
sland is represented
\dinburgh was here,
shown, at whatever
this emergency, the
d a convenient pier,
wharf, not unmind-
ay, or of our good
ia’s sailor son. We
u one hundred and
as the entire island
ped Palmyra palm.
a bamboo shanty,
watch and ward over
and turning to the
ntic and marvelous.
pinning half-way up
rpendicularly, have
Lirty feet, and to the
hy wall thus disclosed
hiselled away to the
into a temple with
ns. The excavation
jestic with gateways
rm
PL
ENTRANCE TO THE CAVE OF THE ELEPHANTA.
BRITISH INDIA.
490
abutments, porches, columns, pilasters, cornices, and vaulted ceil.
ings, as complete and perfect as if, instead of having been carved jn
the rock, they had been detached from it, framed and erected on
the ground. While no architectural element is omitted, all are per:
fectly finished. The broad pavement is as level and smooth as that
of the rotunda at Washington. The ceiling needs no preparation to
receive cither fresco or gilding. The dome is spherical, while the
columns upon which it rests, or seems to rest, have regular bases,
bands, flutings, and capitals, though all alike are shaped from the
undisturbed rock. We even thought it necessary to examine the
lintels of the doors to see if they were not detached pieces of the
rock itself. Standing in the porch or within the temple, and look-
ing inward, you confront the farther wall. In its centre, a deep
recess twenty feet square, reaching from floor to roof, is surmounted
by a bold arch. Within this recess is a colossal figure, or combina-
tion of figures, the triune god: Brahma representing the creative
| power, Vishnu the preserving power, and Siva the destroying
| power. Each of the figures is twice the human size. Brahma is
Jooking forward in an attitude of calmness and contemplation ; at
his feet is a crouching lion. Vishnu rests on a bed of lotus-flowers,
: Siva in one hand wields a drawn sword, and in the other holdsa
ao cobra ready to strike. The gigantic group is completed by the
accessories of dwarfs and inferior gods. The cciling of the recess is
‘| decorated with a crowd of not less than fifty or sixty figures, such
1 as, if found in a Christian temple, would be taken as representing
angels. Every figure within the niche has a distinctive character,
and is not deficient in force. But this group within the recess is
only one group, the entire temple being a gallery full of like
statuary. On either side of the principal hall or temple are lesser
4 chambers or chapels, and the walls of these are covered with alle-
: gorical works, illustrating the transformations, incantations, battles,
< triumphs, marriages, and miracles of the several members of tle J
Braminical trinity. It is the opinion of Dr. Bhau Daji that this
temple was excavated about twelve hundred years ago. No won |
der that it remains complete in its forms and proportions! %o
storm can penetrate it, and no flood can invade it. Even the eartl:
qual
toler
and
tugu
task
of ¢a
hum:
of lo
their
has v
self’!
look :
Bram
fond |
ous pi
custod
for dl
blacke
does n
Th
ment.
on the
in Cey
also of
as to tl
ind vaulted ceil-
\ been carved in
1 and erected on
ritted, all are per-
nd smooth as that
no preparation to
yherical, while the
ave regular bases,
e shaped from the
ry to examine the
shed pieces of the
temple, and look-
its centre, a deep
roof, is surmounted
figure, or combina-
onting the creative
iva the destroying
n size. Brahma is
contemplation ; at
bed of lotus-flowers.
n the other holdsa
s completed by the
jling of the recess is
by sixty figures, such
ken as representing
listinetive character,
within the recess is
gallery full of like
or temple are lesser
re covered with alle:
incantations, battles,
yal members of the §
Bhau Daji that this
years ago. No won §
d proportions! No
it, Even the eattl:
CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 491
quake has spared it. Not so the demon of religious zeal. The i
tolerant followers of the false prophet mutilated these heat! rs os
and forms in the fourteenth century, and the no less fanatical Por.
tuguese, who came in the wake of the Mohammedans, fir ‘ine ih
task of defacing with the hammer too slow, brou ht Bi =
of cannon to the temple-door, and battered dhe Fai a Wise
human sentiment is so strong as that of devotion ? The ear i
of love, hate, and pride, have covered the surface of the hoe
their monuments, But here, in this cave of Elephanta pan
has written its sublimest faith in the very centre of the tl "
self! The chamber which is at the right of the Ee
look inward, contains a spring of pure, ever-flowing sch The
Bramins think it possesses a healing virtue, and it is anone th i
fond conceits that the purifying water comes through : nator ne
ous passage from the Ganges. However this inimy be, th Trish
enatodian of tue temple assured us that it is the “sx nares tier
for dhrinking in all India.” When we looked at his su i *
blackened eye and damaged nose, we regretted for his sak aaiis
does not confine himself to “ that same.” eee
The cave-temple of Elephanta is by no means a solitary m
ment. There are two others scarcely less spacious and slab ane
on the same small island. In other, parts of this coast, as rae ;
in Ceylon, there are not only excavated temples of Bilin : “7
also of Buddha, of dimensions so vast and execution so m val .
as to throw these of Elephanta into the shade. ae
=
&
> _? i PRFF
a6 EE 2 228
ere
—
# 8 3
ice
CHAPTER XVI.
AN EXCURSION TO GOA.
A Voyage on the Coast of Malabar.—A Perilous Predicament.—Dubious Navigation—
Situation of Goa.—Official Courtesies.—History of Goa.—The Old City.—St. Francis
Xavier.—Miraculous Cures.—Character of Xavier.—Public Institutions.—The Gov.
ernor’s Villa.—LHistorical Reminiscences.—A Goa Poet.—A Cordial Farewell,
Off the Coast of Malabar, April 19, 1871.—We were in a strait
on Friday last. An excursion down this coast to ancient Goa, the
first effective European settlement in India, and always the capital
of the Portuguese Indian possessions, promised a pleasure not to he
lost, and seemed a study not é0 be omitted. But Mr. Seward had
engaged to dine with the Byculla Club of Bombay to-morrow, and
the semi-weekly packet to Goa could not be relied upon. With
‘twenty-four hours’ knowledge of this dilemma, the Government
fitted out a revenue-cutter lying in commission. The captain was
unacquainted with the route, and an extra one was appointed;
crew, furniture, and provisions, were extemporized, and, to make
assurance of an exact return doubly sure, we sailed on Saturday at
sunset.
The Camel, besides her proper British colors, was courte.
ously invested with the stars and stripes, and we were accom-
panied by Mr. Farnham, the United States consul. Proceeding
merrily, with a speed of eight knots, we began to inquire about
dinner and sleeping arrangements. Sea-sickness came earlier than
dinner. The cabins were spacious enough, but unavailable. The
vesse
the t.
vised
the v
them
such
O
dark,
that i
of lan
Ghaut
night,
our S
“ slacl
morni
the sh
crumb
coast, |
way.
which
castle,
broug!
bor, bt
our né
we can
object
for oul
ten ¢o
from b
We ste
left G
withou
If t
hours,
us com
ritius, i
—Dubious Navigation—
1e Old City.—St, Francis
Institutions.—The Gov.
Cordial Farewell.
We were in a strait
o ancient Goa, the
always the capital
pleasure not to he
it Mr. Seward had
bay to-morrow, and
elied upon. With
the Government
The captain was
e was appointed;
ized, and, to make
iled on Saturday at
y
olors, was courte:
d we were accom-
nsul. Proceeding
to inquire about
5 came earlier than
unavailable. The
ARRIVAL AT GOA. 493
vessel sat low in the water, and the ports were necessarily closed,
the thermometer standing at ninety degrees. Cabins were impro-
vised on deck by means of flapping sails. These privations gave
the voyage something of the zest of a picnic, and we endured
them with the resolution to enjoy discomforts, usually practised on
such occasions.
Our double captaincy unanimously decided, the night being
dark, that we should push directly out to sea. We pushed so far
that it was not until noon on Sunday that we came back in sight
of land. We proceeded until nightfall in full view of the Western
(Ghauts. Notwithstanding the loss of time during the previous
night, we found ourselves on Sunday noon so far advanced that
our Siamese captain determined to “slow down,” that is to say,
“slacken up,” so as to avoid reaching Goa before daylight the next
morning. With the pleasing intimation that we should leave
the ship at sunrise, we retired to our mattresses at nine o’clock, the
crumbling Portuguese forts on the Goa shore looming up on the
coast, and the disdained Bombay packet just before us, leading the
way. Our sleep was “ murdered” by a mutiny among the crew,’
which was only quelled when the leader was tied up at the fore-
castle. Monday’s dawn, instead of the summons to go ashore,
brought blank consternation! We were not at anchor in the har-
bor, but once more afloat on the sca, no land in sight, neither of
our navigators knew where, and, stranger still, neither knew how
we came there. Sunrise gave not only light but an unmistakable
object to steerby. Joy radiated from the faces of the captains; and,
for ourselves, nothing but our early training in the first of the
ten commandments which came down from Sinai, prevented us
from becoming Parsees and worshipping the fiery orb on the spot.
We steered due east, and the first land-mark showed that we had
left Goa twenty miles behind. We made it, however, though not
without peril from hidden rocks, at eleven o’clock in the morning.
Ifthe gallant officers who had been waiting for us twelve long
hours, in their tight, uncomfortable uniforms, were surprised to see
us coming through a dangerous southern channel, as if from Mau-
ritius, instead of the safe northern one from Bombay, their aston-
44 BRITISH INDIA.
ishment did not exceed that of our two commanders, who until this
very time are unable to account for their error of navigation. The
native pilot, they say, disobeyed their directions; “ there was sud-
denly a strong outward current unknown in this sea before ;”’ more-
over, “ there is indicated in the chart just there an iron mountain,
which deflected the needle;’? moreover and furthermore, “the
ship’s compass, useless in harbor movements, had not been ad.
justed for this outside navigation.”
Two rivers, the Narwar and the Mormugoa, form a deep
estuary, and the island of Goa, upon which the town is built, rises
out of this estuary very much like Manhattan Island at the contlu-
ence of the ILudson and East Rivers in the bay of New York. The
green banks of both rivers are crowned with fortifications, which
are well preserved, and with churches and convents, none of which
are dilapidated, but of which some have been converted to secular
uscs.
On reaching the bar we were boarded by the officer of the port,
and delayed until the fort on shore delivered a salute in honor of
Mr. Seward. Our flags dipped in acknowledgment, and an hour
later we came to anchor before a quaint and picturesque little city.
An extensive fortification standing immediately on the wharf is now
the palace of the governor-general. The buildings, unique though
plain, seem to speak from their open windows and graceful bal-
conies a hospitable welcome. An infantry battalion was drawn up
on the esplanade, and the river-shores were crowded with a swarthy
but well-dressed and gentle-looking people. Mr. Seward was con-
veyed by the gcvernor-general’s staff in a well-manned barge to
the other shore, where he was welcomed by the Secretary of State,
and received with military honors. The band employed on this
occasion, although it consists exclusively of natives, excels any we
have heard in India. Western arts and customs seem capricious
in taking root in these strange countries. On our journey to
Peking, we noticed that the band of Admiral Rodgers’s flag-ship
was composed chiefly of dark natives of Goa. They exccuted
better than any other performers the “Charta,” as they called the
beautiful national air of Portugal. Associated as it is in our rec:
the
tion
the
mos
it w
forti
ble.
nitie
copa
heigl
tivo
impo
trod
ALO,
lite h
of its
firm
tram
side
Cross
scene
enact
grour
a desq
luxur
trate
aware
religic
sister]
creep {
;, who until this
wigation. The
‘there was sud-
before ;” more-
. iron mountain,
rthermore, “ the
d not been ad-
a, form a deep
wn is built, rises
nd at the conflu-
New York. The
titications, which
ts, none of which
verted to secular
officer of the port,
salute in honor of
ent, and an hour
uresque little city.
n the wharf is now
\gs, unique though
and graceful bal-
lion was drawn up
ed with a swarthy
», Seward was con-
l-manned barge to
Secretary of State,
employed on this
ives, excels any We
hs seem capricious
n our journey to
Rodgers’s flag-ship
They exccuted
‘as they called the
as it is in our rec
PRESENT CONDITION OF GOA. 495
ollections of those cold and tedious travels, it was peculiarly pleas-
ing when that noble hymn burst upon us from the instruments of a
full band of the same sympathetic race, in their own tropical home.
Captain Major’s family, the only American one residing here,
divided the care of our entertainment with the governor-genceral,
the Viscount de Sao Januario.
The Goa where we were received so kindly is only by deriva-
tion the Goa of history. Ancient Goa stood eight miles higher, on
the same left bank of the Narwar. Jfounded by Albuquerque, the
most renowned of all the Portuguese admirals, atter Vasco de Gama,
it was laid out on an imperial scale, and surrounded by a wall and
fortifications, which rendered it for more than a century impregna-
ble. An immense population gathered there. It contained the mag-
nificent palace of the viceroy, the college, the hospital, the archiepis-
copal see and the halls of the Inquisition, while on every attractive
height was built a church, monastery, convent, or chdécau. Armies
two hundred thousand strong were repelled from its walls, and
imposing embassies from the barbaric kings and princes of the East
trod its spacious and shaded streets. One hundred and fifty years
ago, it was found to be unhealthful and was abandoned. Although
lite has since disappeared from that once-busy stage, some remnants
of its activity and glory remain. We proceeded in carriages over a
firm and well-preserved causeway, which once resounded with the
tramp of pageants and of armies, to the ruined city. By the road-
side and in the neighboring jungie, moss-covered monumental
crosses, decorated daily by pious hands with fresh flowers, indicate
scenes of violence and suffering, perhaps of miracles or martyrdom,
enacted here. Cocoa-nut groves and mango-orchards now shade
grounds once covered by bazaurs and hostelries. Here and there
a deserted palace, ciosed but not yet in ruins, testifies of wealth and
luxury passed away, and the curious tourist is warned not to pene-
trate its mouldering courts and tangled gardens, lest he come un-
aware upon the most venomous serpents of India. Of a hundred
religious houses, only one convent remains, and that has a lone
sisterhood of three nuns. <A high, arched gate, overgrown with
creepers, is all that exists of the viceregal palace. While the col-
496 BRITISIT INDIA.
lege and hospital have been renewed in the new town, happily no
trace of the Inquisition remains in either city. The Government
has kept the cathedral and churches in repair. They are built jn
the style of the sixteenth century, and, though fine structures, they
are less imposing and costly than the churches built by the Spaniards
of the same period in Mexico and South America. They are, never-
theless, far superior to religious edifices in the United States.
The Church of Bom Jesus contains the tomb of St. Francis
Xavier. It will be remembered that he was associated with Igna-
tius Loyola in establishing the Society of Jesus, and that he came
out on his apostolate to India, even before the papal allowance of
the new order was granted. Perhaps this church was the first of
the many thousands which have arisen in all parts of the world,
under the labors of that mysterious community which has been so
indomitable and indefatigable while encountering so many vicissi-
tudes. The mavsoleum is an oblong pedestal of Carrara marble,
ten feet high, panelled with bronze bas-reliefs, representing the
miracles of the saint. Upon this pedestal is a sarcophagus of gilded
copper, which contains the embalmed remains, and is enclosed in
an elaborately-wrought case of silver. The Grand-duke of Tus-
cany only expressed the reverence of Catholic Europe for Xavier,
in presenting this exquisite monument to the Church of the Jesuits,
which is so closely identified with his labors. The tomb stands in
a vaulted chamber, the walls of which are graced with admirable
devotional paintings, but unfortunately it is so small and dark that
not only the pictures but the monument itself is deprived of its
just effect. The sarcophagus is opened at long intervals by per-
mission of the King of Portugal, and on these occasions deserted
Goa is reanimated by hundreds of thousands of natives, assembled
from all parts of Asia. It may well be believed, as we are told,
that not only the faithful Catholics, but even the unconverted Hin-
doos, confidently expect supernatural effects to follow from the
contact then allowed with the sacred remains. India is filled with
traditions of the saint, and the Jesuit writers have carefully
collected, collated, and published them. According to these tradi-
tions, St. Francis Xavier not only relieved the poor with money
bre
the
ane
but
of 1
(ro:
sarc
subj
birt.
touc
pers
rem:
to th
I
regal
oblig
itual
and 7
thoug
it mu
less gq
natio
by th
found
teachi
Christ
day,
nor tl
and tl
that tl
womel
variou
A
tended
It was
n, happily no
» Government
ey are built in
ructures, they
‘the Spaniards
hey are, never-
| States.
of St. Francis
ated with Igna-
id that he came
al allowance of
was the first of
ts of the world,
iich has been so
so many Viciséi-
Carrara marble,
‘epresenting the
phagus of gilded
1d is enclosed in
nd-duke of Tus-
rope for Xavier,
ch of the Jesuits,
e tomb stands in
with admirable
all and dark that
s deprived of its
intervals by per-
ecasions deserted
atives, assembled
l, as we are told,
ineonverted Hin-
follow from the
idia is filled with
‘s have carefully
ing to these tradi:
yoor with money
TOMB OF ST. FRANCIS XAVIER. 497
iY
brought out from the depths of the sea, healed the sick, made
the dumb to speak, cured the lame and blind, cast out devils,
and raised the dead, by simple invocation of the mercy of God,
but he performed more of those miracles than the Gospels record
of the Saviour, and his chosen twelve apostles. A resident of
(joa, reliable for intelligence and candor, told us that, when the
sarcophagus was last opened, a lady well-known to him became the
subject of a supposed miracle. Having been hopelessly lame from
birth, she solicited parental leave to attend the ceremony and
touch the venerated dead. Jer skeptical parents refused; she
persisted, and in the moment of contact she became whole, and so
remains, Our informant of course ascribes this extraordinary cure
to the influence of her excited imagination.
But the homage paid to the memory of Xavier may well be
regarded without cavil or regret even by those whose education
obliges them to reject his alleged miracles. He surpassed his spir-
itual contemporaries in faith, hope, charity, patience, courage, zeal,
and perseverance, He committed no crime, inculged no vices, and
though he tolerated African slavery and the Inquisition in the East,
it must be remembered they were the errors of his time, and he was
less severe against the recusants of the Church than in self-condem-
nation, It was his noble maxim that the Gospel is advanced more
by the blood of martyrs than by the sweat of missionaries. Ie
found India wholly a pagan and Mohammedan land, and by his
teaching and example, using neither force nor fraud, he made more
Christian converts than can be found on Indian soil at the present
day. It was not, however, for St. Francis Xavier, nor the Jesuits,
nor the Catholic Church of the sixteenth century, to bring India
and the East into Christian civilization, It must be sadly admitted
that this remains yet to be done. It is to be hoped, however, that
the great work has begun in the humble schools for native men and
women which have been opened under missionary auspices in
various parts of the country.
A dinner at the palace closed the day. Although it was at-
tended by the provincial court, and supported by a military band,
it was animated and cordial. The governor was eloquent in his
.
7,
498 BRITISH INDIA.
admiration of the United States. A throne, which stands in the
grand salon, although it has no occupant—the viceregal dignity
having been abolished—is still respected on state occasions. What
interested us more were the queer old portraits of viceroys, gov-
ernors, generals, admirals, and missionaries. Need I say that we
‘arefully studied the lineaments of Vasco de Gama, Dias, Cabral,
Alureyda, Albuquerque, of Xavier and Loyola? An artistic per-
formance of Chopin by a young secretary enchained us until a late
hour.
On the 18th we visited the public institutions. The military
force consists of two battalions of artillery and two of infantry,
maintained at an annual cost of two hundred thousand dollars,
These seem quite enough for a territory of only a thousand
square miles, with a population of four hundred thousand. The
military academy trains one hundred and fifty cadets, through
a seven years’ course. The garrison barracks and hospital are
excellent. We looked into the finance department. The reve-
nue is six hundred thousand dollars. The salaries are low, and
there is no complaint of taxes. The college of science and meii-
cine is conducted by eleven professors, several of whom are natives
of Goa, and is well attended. There are four newspapers, three ot
which are conducted by natives, and all in the Portuguese language.
One-third of “.e population is Roman Catholic, the rest are Hin-
doos, Mahrattas, and Mohammedans. The good order and pertect
clean!’ness which pervade the little city explain the curious fact
that it supplies the foreign residents of all India with their best
household servants.
We drove with the governor to his suburban villa on the sum-
mit of the cape which divides the two rivers. The palace was
formerly a monastery. Its chapels are now reception-rooims and
banqueting-halls. Its cloisters are card and billiard rooms. The
garden supplying vegetables, fruits, and flowers, is still retained.
The site was chosen with the customary sagacity of religious com:
munities, who seldom fail to fiid material comforts while they se:
eure the solitude needful for meditation, and natural associations
which sustain enthusiasm. The place is not less adapted to its
prese
stagn
cliff,
old to
and fi
tains,
the he
the ev
roman
off an
return
seen 3
he wre
only tc
in an
Lisbon
great ¢
brave é
of the «
in the
of the
laden y
spices,
in of t]
sometiz
the ma
nations
ship; ¢
the fan
feat an
Europe
This, w
colonizs
both h
main n
decayin
stands in the
ceregal dignity
vasions. Whit
f viceroys, gov-
| I say that we
a, Dias, Cabral.
An artistic per-
d us until a late
. The military
two of infantry,
housand dollars.
nly a thousand
thousand. The
cadets, through
and hospital are
ent. The reve-
ries are low, and
eience and med:
vhom are natives
‘spapers, three ot
tuguese language.
the rest are Hin-
order and pertect
the curious tact
a with their best
villa on the sun-
The palace was
eption-rooms and
lard rooms. Th
, is still retained.
>of religious com:
yrts while they se:
tural associations
183 adapted to its
THE STORY OF GOA. 409
present use. There could be no more refreshing retreat from the
stagnant air and burning heat of the city tnan this breezy, rocky
cliff, which breaks the ocean-tides, while it looks down upon the
old town and the new, half buried in palins, mangos, and cypresses,
and far up the primeval river-channels to their sources in the moun-
tains, Which are lost in the horizon. Our minds were crowded, in
the hours we passed on the turreted veranda, with the thoughts of
the events which had happened beneath it: of Camoens and his
romantic career; how, crossed in love at home, he came to this far-
of and misty East to make by adventure a name with which to
return and wed the maiden with the “sweetest eyes were ever
seen ;”” how, after shipwreck and amid privations and persecutions,
he wrote here his “ Lusiad,” and then returned to lis native land,
only to find his mistress dead, and to die himself, of a broken heart,
inan almshouse. We thought of the arrival of armed flects from
Lisbon, in the now quiet bay; of the building and fortification of a
great city ; of native armies gathered in siege around it—of the
brave and chivalrous defenders who defeated and dispersed them ;
of the expedition of squadrons for the conquest of Aden and Ormus,
inthe Arabian Sea; of Malacca, the key of the Sea of China, and
of the Moluecas in the Archipelago, and of their triumphant return
laden with spoils; of the homeward dispatch of argosies loaded with
spices, pearls of Ceylon, and diamonds of Golconda; of the coming
inof the humble Jesuit missionaries, their fortunes and their fate,
sometimes received with affection and gratitude, and often mecting
the martyr’s crown; of the baptism of whole tribes, provinces, and
nations ; of their subsequent relapse into their primitive idol-wor-
ship; of the enterprise of the colonists on land and sea, extending
the fame and sway of Portugal, always brilliant, but ending in de-
feat and overthrow at last, when they came into collision with
European rivals equally ambitious and stronger than themselves.
This, which is the story of Goa, is also the history of Portuguese
colonization. Of the vast empire which Portugal established in
both hemispheres on the track of the great discoverers, there re-
main now only this little province of Goa, in India; the already
decaying city of Macao, in China; and the yet barbarian colonies
- war Gee Ge -
=
‘a =e
500 BRITISH INDIA.
of St. Paul de Loando, and Mozambique, in Africa. Portugal won
that empire bravely, she improved it as she could with the light
she enjoyed, and she lost it chivalrously. The nations which
have profited by her discoveries and conquests will not deny her
honor and sympathy.
An early dinner at Captain Major’s was attended by the goy.
crnor-gencral and other officers of the state, including M. Riberio,
a poet of whom it is said we are likely to hear more, through some
translations by Longfellow.
The hour of five, the first in which tide would serve, had been
appointed for our departure. Mr. Seward, as usual, was proceeding
promptly to the wharf, but was detained for a parting demonstra-
tion. The governor addressed him with emotion; Mr. Seward re.
plied with equal feeling. The military saluted him, and then the
barge convwyed us to our familiar deck. Even when the last of the
forts had dipped its flag and fired its farewell guns, and the setting
sun had left us o gy the hazy twilight of the tropics, signals were
still seen waving adieux from the palace balconies and from the
wharf, Whatever else of the ancient Portuguese character may
have passed away with the decline of imperial power, the clement
of chivalrous courtesy certainly remains.
The crew of the Camel is now obedient. The Hindoo helms.
man stecrs faithfully, the ocean-currents flow smoothly, the iron
mountain no longer diverts the needle, while the compass has
heen satisfactorily adjusted. Our captaincy is pleased with itself
and with us. We are equally satisfied, and go to our rest with the
Bombay light shining brightly before us. Goa has been gained,
and the Byculla Club is not “ going to be disappointed.”
The Bye
tain
of t
Saxc
Bo:
of Bom
the mil
cans, b
in its ¢
Its §
last nig
in the ¢
The
presided
plied as
“ I ]
societies
fatigue,
accepted
the Eurg
rations
the Eas
Oppresse
Portugal won
ld with the light
> nations which
rill not deny her
nded by the gov-
iding M. Riberio,
sre, through some
d serve, had been
al, was proceeding
arting demonstra-
n; Mr. Seward re-
him, and then the
shen the last of the
ns, and the setting
ropics, signals were
nies and from the
nese character may
power, the clement
he Hindoo helns-
smoothly, the iron
» the compass has
pleased with itselt
to our rest with the
has been gained,
yointed.”
CHAPTER XVII.
LAST DAYS IN BOMBAY.
The Byculla Club—Mr. Seward’s Speech.—His Grateful Acknowledgments to his Enter.
tainers.—The Indies of the East and the Indies of the West.—Growing Civilization
of the East.—A Progress Irresistible—The New Concord.—Policy of the Anglo-
Saxon Race.—Miss Wessner.—Departure from Bombay.
Bombay, April 21st—The Byculla Club is
less a local society
of Bombay than an association of the gentlemen who are engaged in
the military and civil service throughout India.
cans, but foreigners of all the Western nations,
in its circle.
Not only Ameri-
fraternize cordially
Its spacious and elegant rooms, highly illuminated, were filled
last night, and the entertainment was attended by all the members
in the city and many ladies.
The Honorable Sir M. R. Westropp, Chief-Justice of Bombay,
presided, and spoke of Mr. Seward’s public life.
plied as follows :
Mr. Seward re-
“T have been more than once heretofore kindly invited to meet
societies in Asia, but those privileges were lost by reason either of
fatigue, or some other exigency of travel.
I have, therefore,
accepted this courtesy of yours, as a social welcome tendered me by
the Europeans residing in India, while at the same time my prepa-
rations for an early departure oblige me to take my final leave of
the East here.
Having learned much and enjoyed more, I am
oppressed with many grateful thoughts, though the time scarcely
83
®
502 BRITISH INDIA.
serves for a full utterance of one. When the spring fills up, how.
ever, we must choose the vent through which the stream shall flow,
First, I must thank you sincerely, profoundly, for bringing me to
* an acquaintance with your enlightened and spirited association,
for bestowing upon me the honor of its membership, and for
giving me this felicitous expression of its elegant and generons
hospitality. I have been frequently asked, “What do you think
of Bombay?” I answer now: “ The Byculla Club is a just expo.
nent of a great and growing Oriental metropolis.’ Two hundred
years ago this magnificent bay came to a King of England as the
dowry of a Portuguese princess. Who could then have foreseen
that, under British rule, it would become the gate of the Fast, the
Constantinople of a new historical era? Yet, this high destiny is
: WN wp 54
oe one of the assured and immediate results of the Suez Canal, |
a oh shall, indeed, continue my past endeavors to hasten on a ship-canal
7, e across the Isthmus of Darien—a work which can hardly fail to give
3 8 new importance to queenly Calcutta. But India is a vast coun.
ts a try, and can maintain two great commercial cities, as the world
te already has need of two interoceanic channels of commerce.
“Gentlemen, I owe manifold acknowledgments outside the
: - Byculla Club. Please suffer me to make them here}; to his exccl-
: lency the viceroy, and many members of the Council of India—to
the authorities of Madras, Bengal, the Northwest Provinces, the
: Central Provinces, the Punjab and Bombay—to the Maharajahs of
Benares and Putteeala, and to many other native statesmen and
scholars—for attentions which have made my travels in India
equally a tour of pleasure and an interesting study. If I could
think it possible that what I may now say could pass the confines
of British India, I would add not less grateful acknowledgments to
the Portuguese authorities of ancient Goa, the authorities of the
ae vigorous Straits Settlement, and the government of the 1arvellously
tid fruitful Netherlands Indies, as well as the native governments of
ths i "a e : °
ht eer just awakening China and Japan. Thus far in a journey round
Rate
the world, I have had the pleasant part of St. Paul’s experience on
his voyage from Joppa to Rome: ‘So when this was done, others
also came, who also honored us with many honors.’
6
lumt
signi
The,
know
embr
66!
anew
ing le
Indie;
the so
sibility
and D
son, 07
sponsil
6c I
the no
elevate
eration
We mal
us one
Danish
love to
lousas
nents y
empire
establis}
of the f
native x
“ Dad
tion in
am hap
that reg
There a
and inv
These ay
ng fills up, how:
tream shall flow.
» bringing me to
rited association,
bership, and for
nt and generous
rat do you think
ib is a just expo-
» Two hundred
of England as the
1en have foreseen
e of the East, the
his high destiny is
ie Suez Canal. |
ten on a ship-canal
hardly fail to give
lia is a vast coun-
ities, as the world
commerce.
ments outside the
here; to his excel-
ouncil of India—to
-est. Provinces, the
S the Maharajahs of
tive statesmen and
y travels in India
‘study. If I could
ld pass the confines
cknowledgments to
e authorities of the
of the 1aarvellously
ve governments of
in a journey round
Paul’s experience on
his was done, others
nors.’
MR. SEWARD’S SPEECH.
503
“Gentlemen, immediately after the Western discoveries of Co-
jumbus, and the Eastern discoveries of Vasco de Gama, a new and
significant, though inaccurate nomenclature obtained in geography.
The,world was at once divided into two parts: one, the old and well
known, the other, the newly-discovered or explored Indies, which
embraced nearly all of Asia, and the whole of America.
“The old and well-known Western nations came suddenly under
anew and vast responsibility. This responsibility included noth-
ing less than a regeneration of an effete civilization in the so-called
Indics of Asia, and the establishment of an original civilization in
the so-called Indies of America. A profound sense of this respon-
sibility sustained the labors and shaped the characters of Columbus
and De Gama, of Chatham and Burke, of Washington and Jeffer-
gon, of Xavier and Heber. Tell me not, therefore, that this re-
sponsibility is merely a conceit of an ardent imagination.
“Tt is, I trust, gentlemen, to a sympathy which exists between
the now ruling classes of the East and my countrymen, in this
elevated and humane sentiment, that I am indebted for this consid-
eration which it has given me so much pleasure to acknowledge.
We may well, gentlemen, cherish and cultivate it. Itneed not make
us one whit the less British, American, French, Portuguese, Italian,
Danish, German, Dutch, or whatever else we may have been, or
love to be, to accept the simple and sublime truth that comes down
tousas an instruction from the throne above, that whatever govern-
ments we may establish or maintain amid the débris of Asiatic
empires or in the chaos of America, those governments must be
established and maintained not alone nor chiefly for the advantage
of the foreign founders, but for the welfare and happiness of the
native races among whom they are founded.
“ Despite skepticism, avarice, and reactionary resistance, civiliza-
tion in America, the Indies of the West, is a manifest success. I
am happy to declare, as the result of my observation, the conviction
that regeneration in Asia is equally proving itself to be a success.
There are, indeed, parts of Asia where Western ideas, principles,
md inventions, are only tolerated with undissembled reluctance.
These are the regions which were last reached by Europeans. But
BRITISH INDIA.
504
I know, on the other hand, those ideas, principles, and inventions,
are accepted and embraced cordially in other portions of the East,
which have been more early and conveniently accessible. Witness
Japan, the coast and rivers of China, Java, Burmah, Madras, Ben.
gal, Goa, and Bombay. There modern civilization is triumphant,
Progress is irresistible. The inventions of steam, railroads, tele.
graphs, and missionary colleges and schools, have come in good
time to enable us to carry on that work of regeneration peacefully
and humanely, which has so often been prosecuted blunderingly 4s
well as cruelly, with the aid of gunpowder. It cannot be long
before the British Government will be relieved of the necessity of
maintaining an Indian army to protect their possessions, and a
European army to watch the Indian one.
“You must have noticed, gentlemen, as I have, a new and
pleasing trait in the temper of our age. Europe does, indeed, still
remain a theatre of international jealousies and ambitions, but ]
think all the nations of the West have come at last to an harmoni-
ous agreement that European conflicts shall no longer be extended
into Asia, Polynesia, or America.” (Hear! hear!’’)
“You like this new concord, gentlemnen—lI know the reason:
because it is the harbinger of peace and progress in the East. |
like it for the same reason, and also for another: it is the saving
‘Monroe doctrine’ of America. I am, of course, aware that the
assembly before whom I stand, and to whom I am so much indebt-
ed, consists largely of Britons. Iam an American. Our nations
are severed—our extraction largely the same. The very work of
extending modern civilization in the two hemispheres, of which so
large a share of responsibility has devolved upon each nation, hasa
tendency, perhaps, to make us rivals. There are passionate and
prejudiced men in both countries who would aggravate this rivalry
into hatred, but such a temper is in any case insular and provin-
cial, and unworthy the matured genius of either nation. I am not
sentimental enough to rely on a distant consanguinity, which is
daily becoming more remote, as an enduring bond of friendship
between our two countries, but I have always seen that, situated as
they are, on opposite sides of a great ocean, equally dependent ons
peac
guag
the ]
com!
and |
kind
the A
into
stead
lose
increa
globe.
sc}
tual re
and tl
govern
the ear
Ap
large rq
British
but alsq
their s
sentimd
Wh
then tre
journe
gone to
before
caught,
great fo
world,
Just at ¢
much, y
and our
brave, ay
and inventions,
‘ons of the East,
ssible. Witness
th, Madras, Ben-
n is triumphant.
1, railroads, tele-
ve come in good
ration peacefully
d blunderingly as
t cannot be long
f the necessity of
yossessions, and a
have, a new and
s does, indeed, still
d ambitions, but |
last to an harmoni-
longer be extended
ear !”’)
I know the reason:
ess in the East. |
byt it is the saving
se, aware that the
am so much indebt-
ican. Our nations
The very work of
spheres, of which 80
n each nation, hasa
are passionate and
woravate this rivalry
insular and provit:
y nation. I am not
sanguinity, which is
bond of friendship
seen that, situated ss
ally dependent oné
DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY.
505
peaceful commerce with the whole world, speaking the same lan-
guage, and holding the same religious faith, equally educated above
the powers and blandishments of despotism, and conscious of their
common responsibility in regard to universal progress, the welfare
and happiness of each demand that they shall be friends, and man-
kind cannot consent to their alienation. Far from thinking that
the Anglo-Saxon race, so proudly and happily advanced, will fall
into internecine conflict now or hereafter, I, on the contrary,
steadfastly believe that neither of its two great branches will
lose any thing cf power or prestige while their colonics are
increasing, multiplying, and replenishing the waste places of the
globe.
“My parting words to you, gentlemen, therefore, are: Let mu-
tual respect and cordial friendship prevail between Great Britain
and the United States of America, until British scorn of arbitrary
government and American love of educated liberty shall encircle
the earth !””
April 22d.—It is a day of leave-taking, and a busy one. A
large representation of the intellectual socicty of Bombay, not only
British, Americans, and Continental Europeans, have been with us,
but also Parsees, Mohammedans, and Hindoos. All alike express
their sympathies with Mr. Seward, and their appreciation of the
sentiments he uttered the day before yesterday.
While we were at Shanghai, Miss Wessner, a Bavarian lady,
then travelling in that country, gave an interesting account of ber
jowney to Peking. When we returned to that capital, she had
gone to Java. All the way hither she has been flitting away just
before us, but we have failed to overtake her. To-day the bird was
caught, and a pleasing acquaintance established. She exhibits
great force of character in making alone an exploration of the
world, which is universally thought to require masculine energy.
Just at the moment of making this friendship, which promises so
much, we are grieved with the intelligence of the death of a friend,
and our countrywoman, Alice Cary; not less gifted than true,
brave, and womanly.
Once more at Sca.—The Steamer Deccan.—Mr. Seward’s Remarks on India,—Natural
CHAPTER XVIII.
FROM BOMBAY TO ADEN,
Religion.—The Characteristics of the Hindoo Mind. —England’s Hold on India—
The Regeneration of India.—The Island of Socotra.—Arrival at Aden.—An Extinct
Volcano.—Wise Old England !—A New Stage of the Voyage.—Red-Haired Negroes,
Steamer Deccan, Aprii 25th.—Once more at sea! But where?
The waters which roll between the Indian Peninsula and the Ara.
bian Promontory are the Arabian Sea. The waters south of them
are the Indian Ocean. We left the Indian Peninsula behind us on
the 22d, and are now making a bee-line from the Malabar coast to
Aden, on the southwest coast of Arabia. On which of the two
seas are we? Our steamer is the largest one of the Peninsular and
Oriental line. Having three keels, she rides the sea as squarely
and as smoothly as an American side-wheeler. Our fellow-passen-
gers being English, and many of them acquaintances made in India,
we are not suffered to feel that we are strangers.
While watching the flying fish skipping over the unruffled sea
this morning, which of all the reflections that occurred to us dur-
ing our sojourn in India shall we record? Mr. Seward said:
“India has a very imperfect and unsatisfactory civilization, but it
never had a better one. The native population could never
achieve a better one if left to themselves. Their whole hope ofa
higher civilization depends on the instruction and aid of the West
ern nations, and, taking circumstances as they are, that hope de
pen
ject
had
Altl
sive
advs
ual 1
obta:
who
entir
joyir
is go
Wher
or is
ean tl
Powe
power
suprer
virtue
from ft
reveald
it is a
this or
his ha
spiritu
this sp
dition
ments
vance j
words,
metap]
remain§
observe
ferior t4
Sanserj
superio
arks on India,—Natural
Jand’s Hold on India—
al at Aden.—An Extinct
e.—Red-Haired Negroes,
seal But where!
nsula and the Ara-
aters south of them
insula behind us on
he Malabar coast to
which of the two
the Peninsular and
the sea as squarely
Our fellow-passen-
nees made in India,
5.
fer the unruffled sea
oceurred to us dur
Mr. Seward said:
y civilization, but it
ilation could never
heir whole hope of
nd aid of the West
are, that hope de-
1
REMARK. ON INDIA, 507
pends chiefly on the guidance and aid of Great Britain. It is a sub-
ject for profound study how it has happened that thus fir India has
had an experience so different from that of the nations of the West.
Although the Western nations have not at all times been progres-
sive, they have, nevertheless, as a whole family, been continually
advancing. Tow is this to be accounted for? The first intellect-
ual want of which man is conscious is, not that of a guidance in
obtaining a supply of the necessaries of life, but a desire to know
who and what is the power that created him, and on whom he is
entirely dependent. Man feels himself capable of seeing and en-
joying good, and alse of doing and suffering evil. He asks, What
is good, what is evil? When do good and evil come, and how?
Where does the Supreme Power reside, and what is it? Is it one,
or is it many? Is it altogether good, or altogether evil? How
can the Supreme Power be both good and evil? Has the Supreme
Power created only good and been baffled by an equal or superior
power that has interjected evil? How could a power that is
supremely good create evil? Does the Supreme Power delight in
virtue and the happiness of mankind, or does it derive pleasure
from their crimes and suffering? The Supreme Power has so far
revealed itself in Nature that man can attain to the knowledge that
it is a single power, that there is one God, not many gods, and that
this one God requires from man the practice of virtue, and desires
his happiness. This truth must be seized upon and become a
spiritual conviction. Until a national mind grasps and cherishes
this spiritual conviction, it must ever continue to revolve in a con-
dition of uncertainty and doubt about the providential appoint-
ments of good and evil, which render it incapable of a firm ad-
vance in knowledge and civilization. This is only saying, in other
words, that such a nation becomes bewildered in the subtleties of
metaphysics. This bewilderment has hitherto been, and yet
remains, a condition of the people of Hindostan. All studious
observers have agreed that the Hindoos are not intellectually in-
ferior to the Western nations. They early framed a language, the
Sanscrit, which the learned of every nation unite in asserting is
superior to every other vehicle of human thought; they have ethics
aA Gm Se -
ie Mee
508
equal to those of Confucius, and his are equal to the morals of
BRITISH INDIA.
Plato. They have many municipal laws as just as the common
law. They have skill in productive art and manufacture, which
has made their fabrics objects of cupidity and envy among all
nations. Their literature of fiction furnished a model for the
‘Arabian Nights Entertainments’ as well as the poems of Ari.
osto an} Chaucer. They gave to Greece the science ef notation,
and they have always excelled in mathematics generally, and prac.
tical hydraulics. Nevertheless, the Hindoos have never known
how to constitute a civil government, or to organize a beneficial
ecclesiastical system. They have never even written a history of
themselves, unless we accept, as such, fables which cover a chrono.
logical period of many millions of years, with four successive ages:
first, one of perfect human strength, purity, and happiness ; second,
one of a slight admixture of weakness, rendering human govern.
ment necessary ; third, an equal admixture of vice and virtue; and,
fourth, the predominance of evil, which has only endured five
thousand years of its appointed term of four hundred and thirty.
three thousand! Unable to establish a plausible mythology, they
require us, in the nincteenth century of the Christian era, to accept
a pantheon of thirty-three millions of gods! It is not for us to
determine ~ ether the pertinacious metaphysical bias of the Hin.
doos is natural to the Hindoo mind, or is accidental. Its fruits are
palpable erough. They are, a persistent adhesioa to the Pytha.
gorean theory of transmigration—a theory which equally subverts
the relation of man to brute, and the relation of both man and
brute to the common Creator; a degradation and debasement of
woman, which not only exclude her from society, but render her
incapable of it; caste, which extirpates codperation, emulation, and
charity, annihilates the inherent conviction of the equal rights of
manhood, and delivers all governments over to the caprices of
ambition and the chances of anarchy. The remedy for India is
and can be nothing less than a regeneration of the Hindoo mind.
The Mogul conquerors attempted this by teaching the Mohamme-
dan faith, and enforcing their instructions by the sword of the
They failed even to establish a severe despotism. The
prophet.
i
sup
nati
a CO
that
rule.
shou
inev
foun
Indi:
as N
if ca
stant
her :
come
such |
langu
indee
caste,
if not
tical
1 n
1002 0
It ma
ent i
enoug
shoul
Britai
Ido
pean
she he
perils
which
Great
native
time {
increas
Weh
to the morals of
t as the common
anufacture, which
1 envy among all
a model for the
he poems of Ari-
cience of notation,
enerally, and prac-
1ave never known
rganize a beneficial
written a history of
ich cover a chrono-
our successive ages:
happiness; second, |
ing human gover-
ice and virtue ; and,
, only endured five
hundred and thirty-
ible mythology, they
ristian era, to accept
It is not for us to
sical bias of the Hin-
lental. Its fruits are
hesioa to the Pytha.
hich equally subverts
bn of both man and
and debasement of
iety, but render her
tion, emulation, and
the equal rights of
y to the caprices of
remedy for India is
of the Hindoo mind.
ching the Mohamme-
by the sword of the
ere despotism. ‘The
“"
®
BRITISH CONTROL IN INDIA. 509
superior political science and greater toleration of ‘the British
nation enable them at least to rule India in peace, but not without
a constant exhibition of military power. It is but too apparent
that the native population of India have not yet, under British
yule, established any firm advance. If the British Government
should withdraw itself from Hindostan to-day, the country must
inevitably relapse into the wretched condition in which it was
found by the Europeans. But Great Britain has a difficult task.
India cannot be colonized by British subjects, or European races,
as North America and Australia were. Climate forbids this, even
if caste does not. On the other hand, Great Britain, now con-
stantly present in India, and in all parts of it, with her arts and
her arms, protects and coéperates with the philanthropists who
come a8 missionaries and educators. These can hardly fail under
such circumstances to produce a change in the practices, habits, and
languages, of the people of India. The work of regeneration must
indeed be slow, for it requires nothing less than the destruction of
caste, the restoration of woman, and the conversion of the natives,
it not to Christianity, at least to a religion more rational and prac-
tical than the Braminical faith. Through this slow process, the
idea of the dignity and rights of man may be expected to develop.
It may seem sanguine to expect that, among the vicissitudes inher-
ent in all political affairs, British control in India will last long
enough to secure this great consummation. But, even if this
should not be so, the Western powers which should relieve Great
Britain in India must necessarily assume her responsibilities.
I do not think her situation in India precarious ; certainly no Euro-
pean power has now the ability to displace her from the position
she has attained through long perseverance and at great cost. The
perils of British authority in India, if there are any, are those
which threaten the stability and peace of the realm. So long as
Great Britain shall be content to employ Sepoys, and subsidize
native princes, she will be quite safe in India, and during all that
time the habit of submission to British law may be expected to
increase, and so reduce gradually the difficulties of the situation.
We have not found the British residents in India one-half so hope-
510 BRITISH INDIA.
ful of the regeneration of the country as this, but all great and
benevolent enterprises, however slow in progress, are sure to be
The regeneration of India is an old talk of the
Western nations. It dates from the invasion of Alexander. It
was the task of the Mohammedans. Caste and superstition are far
less omnipotent in India now than they were two thousand years
ago, four hundred years ago, or even fifty years ago, nor is the con.
dition of the people as low now as it was at any of those periods.”
successful at last.
Indian Ocean, April 26th.—We are just passing the island of
Socotra, which belongs to the Sultan of Muscat. It is commer.
cially known for its exports of aloes and the gum of the dragon's.
blood tree.- Admiral Cockburn recently visited the island with a
> a
= i a view of suppressing a small slave-traffic which is carried on there
ee scl with traders from the opposite African coast. So we sce that,
m5 although the African slave-trade has been abolished among the civ.
e 5 ilized nations, it still lingers among those which have not been re.
. claimed from barbarism. The admiral found the inhabitants of the
capital, Tamarinda, little better than aborigines, though they speak
i is the Arabic and profess Mohammedanism. Before Mohammed,
me 38 however, they were not pagans, for St. Francis Xavier, in relating
his voyage to India, states that his vessel entered the harbor of
. Socotra, and was detained there many weeks for provisions and re.
, pairs. He found the inhabitants hospitable and docile Christians,
, using a ritual-service which they claimed to have been left them by
the Apostle St. Thomas, to whom they attributed their conversion,
They had never heard of the Pope, nor even of the division of the
Church between the Greek Patriarch, whom they acknowledged,
and the Bishop of Rome.
April 27th.—After eight months’ travel in the incomprehen-
sible East, with its stagnant civilization, we are now passing into
another region still more incomprehensible and hopeless.
On our right hand is Yemen, once “ Arabia the happy,” and
still known in poetry as a land of light and beauty, but now the
dwelling of Arab hordes, who are sinking every day deeper into
Sp aa é
ae
dista
Ader
M
many
ontor
becon
and 1¢
remai
bottor
that ¢
what ¢
that B
Aden
is join
a place
see,
a plan
has pl.
to wat
voyagy
of Syn
them
from t
terven
native
cat,
promo
Britis]
ut all great and
s, are sure to be
n old talk of the
of Alexander. It
uperstition are far
vo thousand years
go, nor is the con-
of those periods.”
ssing the island of
at. It is commer:
m of the dragon’s-
1 the island witha
is carried on there
So we see that,
hed among the civ-
1 have not been re-
e inhabitants of the
though they speak
3efore Mohammed,
Xavier, in relating
red the harbor of
by provisions and re-
d docile Christians,
e been left them by
ed their conversion.
the division of the
they acknowledged,
the incomprehen-
re now passing into
| hopeless.
ia the happy,” and
beauty, but now the |
very day deeper into
ADEN. B11
barbarism. On the left, we are passing Soumala, that part of
Africa which stretches from Mozambique to Abyssinia. It is
inhabited by aboriginal negro tribes, which, from the beginning of
time, have defied civilization. Thus we have the same experience,
in our approach to Europe, as when we listen to a vague and con-
fused prelude which precedes the full harmony of the symphony.
Aden, April 28th.—Elevated plains on the Arabian coast, too
distant for minute observation, were our landmarks as we neared
Aden. |
Many centuries ago—we must consult geology to know how
many—a great fire was pent up in the lowest depths of the prom-
ontory that now bears the name of Aden. That subterranean fire,
becoming at last uncontrollable, burned the whole promontory out,
and left it upside-down. The top of the hill was gone, and nothing
remained but a huge cylindrical bowl, six miles in diameter at the
bottom, with a rim fifteen hundred feet high. No one knows what
that convulsion of Nature was for, any more than “ Caspar” knew
what the battle of Blenheim was about. Everybody, however, said
that Blenheim was a “famous victory,” and everybody agrees that
Aden was a great volcano. Aden, thus hollowed into basin-shape,
is joined to the Arabian coast by a low and very narrow isthmus—
a place so entirely desolate it has never before been our fortune to
see, On it, or in it (which will you have ?), there is not a tree nor
a plant, except where, here and there, is a patch which man’s hand
has planted, scarcely bigger than that hand, and which he continues
to water daily. The Portuguese discoverers stopped here on their
voyages of exploration. They found here, as at Socotra, a colony
of Syrian Christians. The Mohammedans from Mecca invaded
them with fire and sword. They invoked relief and protection
from the Portuguese Indian capital at Goa. The Portuguese in-
tervention proved ineffectual, and the promontory remained under
native Arabian sway, and ultimately came to be a province of Mus-
cat. The kings of Muscat lost it, as they lost every thing, and the
promontory remained under the control of native chiefs. The
British Government early saw its importance to their Indian do-
512 BRITISH INDIA.
minions, but awaited an opportunity. In 1839, under the pretext
of redressing an insult, Great Britain, with sword in one hand, and
a liberal purse in the other, seized the promontory and fortified it,
It is now used as a coaling-station in the European voyages to
India, whether they are made around the Cape of Good Hope, or
through the Red Sea. Aden commands the latter navigation, and
in this sense is the key to India and the whole East, as Sings.
pore is the key to China, Japan, the Archipelago, and Australia
Aden is politically dependent, not directly on the Home Gover-
ment, but on the presidency of Bombay, and is held and main-
tained at the cost of the government of British India.
Wise old England! Tow she fortifies her Island Realm, and
yet all the while develops and improves the energies of her people,
while she docs not hesitate to undertake the police regulation of the
worl
lish
wha:
com)
stati
offer
Pres
the t
that
begal
there
those
breth
A
fortifi
the si
to do
ernm¢
into |
and ¢@
every
interiq
doubt
rier 0
The lz
the ot
this v
town.
walls
plain i
are s0
bays fi
enclosd
ings,
therefi
tions,
under the pretext
1 in one hand, and
ry and fortified it.
uropean voyages to
he of Good Hope, or
ntter navigation, and
hole East, as Sings-
Jago, and Australia
the Home Gover
H is held and main-
India.
y Island Realm, and
ergies of her people,
blice regulation of the
ADEN. 513
world! She knows, moreover, when and where and how to estab-
lish the necessary police-stations. If jealous of the United States,
what could she desire more than that they shall be content with
complaining of the Alabama grievances, hesitate at taking a police-
station in Alaska, and utterly refuse to take one, even though
offered, in the West Indies? That hesitation and refusal recall
President Lincoln’s story of the intrusion of the Universalists into
the town of Springfield. The several orthodox churches agreed
that their pastors should preach down the heresy. One of them
began his discourse with these emphatic words: “ My brethren,
there is a dangerous doctrine cre ;ing in among us. There are
those who are teaching that all men will be saved; but, my dear
brethren, we hope for better things!”
Aden is a fortification and harbor, and nothing more. The
fortification is without a model, and there is no duplicate of it, for
the simple reason that the volcano shaped it. All that science had
to do was, to perfect what the volcano left unfinished. The Gov-
emment has simply hewn the concave rocky surface of the crater
into bastions, palisades, covered ways, parapets, martello-towers,
and castellated batteries, so as to repel approach from the sea, on
every side, and at the same time to command every foot of the
interior areca. The base of the interior area has two depressions,
doubtless produced by two distinct eruptions, separated by a bar-
rier of rock, indicating that there must have been two volcanoes.
The larger area of these excavations contains the town of Aden,
the other the arsenal. A passage which has been hewn through
this voleanie rock connects the arsenal with the barracks in the
town. This passage has a ditch along its side, parallel massive
walls on both sides, and a battery at each end, commanding the
plain in either direction. The outer sides of the circular mountain
are so steep and so indented that they furnish deep and convenient
bays for safe anchorage at their base. The rocky precipices which
enclose the crater leave no sufficient space for barracks or dwell-
ings. The population of Aden, including all ciasses, is contracted,
therefore, within the basin, and so under control of the fortifica-
tions. You reach this basin, not by driving under the encircling
BRITISH INDIA.
514
rim and rising within, nor by climbing over it, but by a road hewn
through the rim itself. Some military critics among our British
acquaintance tell us that these defences are not impregnable,
Mr. Seward asks, ‘‘ But can they not easily be made so?” They
assent. “ That,” he says, “is all that is required of any fortifica.
tion.” The force at present stationed here is only one regiment,
The latitude of Aden is 12° north. The heat is so constant, as
well as so intense, as to suggest the apprehension of new subter.
rancan fires, Sometimes three years pass without the blessing of
rain. It is, therefore, a severe study of the government to pro.
vide fresh water for town, garrison, and shipping. The earliey
owners of Aden had a considerable city within the basin, which
they supplied with water by collecting the rain which occasionally
fell on the crests and interior declivities, and conducting it to 4
dozen tanks or reservoirs. The water thus gathered and hoarded
from tropical tempests would be sufficient, if left to its natural flow,
to deluge the bottom of the basin. These reservoirs remain in per.
fect preservation, and are admired for their masonry. The walls of
each bear a tablet on which is stated its capacity in gallons. The
supply furnished by these ancient reservoirs is quite inadcquate
to the present demand of the town, which is provided for by the
use of steam-condensers of sea-water. It ‘s a curious thing to see
English artisans here using coal from Coinwall, to extract water
from the ocean to slake the thirst of the savages of Asia and Africa,
Who shall question that the British people are a commercial one,
when he learns that the government at Aden sells the water, which
it thus manufactures, at a penny a gallon ?
We realize here that we have reached a new stage of our round-
the-world voyage. We are leaving, rather, let us say, we have left
the far East and the South behind us. Though not yet arrived at
the West and the North, we are on their confines. Not one Mon-
golian or Malay,do we see, only a few Hindoos and an individual
Parsee, who applies ¢o Mr. Seward to be appointed consul of the
United States. The people are Arabs, Turks, swarthy Jews, and
Abyssinians ; the dominating races, Abyssinians and Soumalans,
The Hindoos are servants; the Jews, bankers and pawnbrokers;
the £
ambe
with
This
Soum
be in
native
most :
might
dive i
were |
with 1
darkni
forehe
red to
instant
throug
deck te
ployme
On she
same 1°
‘the ]
skin,’ t
his hai
are,
more b
women
are the
freedor
the Na
chased,
their bl
The
pretens
gentlen
candor,
ut by a road hewn
mong our British
not impregnable,
made so?” They
ed of any fortifica.
ly one regiment.
at is so constant, as
ion of new subter-
out the blessing of
yovernment to pro-
yping. The earlier
in the basin, which
which occasionally
conducting it toa
thered and hoarded
t to its natural flow,
‘voirs remain in per:
sonry. The walls of
ity in gallons. The
is quite inadequate
provided for by the
curious thing to see
all, to extract water
sof Asia and Africa.
re a commercial one,
fells the water, which
stage of our round:
us say, we have lett
oh not yet arrived at
nes. Not one Mon
bs and an individual
ointed consul of the
s, swarthy Jews, and
Fang and Soumalans.
3 and pawnbrokers;
THE SOUMALANS. 515
the Arabs and Abyssinians, traders in coffee, frankincense, myrrh,
amber, and ostrich-feathers. The Arabs also supply the people
with fruit, mostly dates, and with the mutton of the Berber sheep.
This small animal is invariably white, with a black head. The
Soumalans are not prepossessing in appearance. We happened to
be in our state-rooms when the Deccan came to anchor. These
natives swarmed thickly around the steamer, in the smallest and
most rickety of all boats and rafts, to see if happily some passenger
might want them, either to carry baggage ashore for a penny, or to
dive into the sea for the same price.
Before we were aware, they
were climbing over the ports, naked, except at the waists, peering
with their large, yellow-black eyes into the ship—black as Milton’s
darkness, strong and lithe, with great white tceth, flat noses, low
foreheads, and thick hair, curly, and varying in color from carrot-
red to tow-white—Scandinavian hair on African heads! At the
instant they appeared at the vessel’s side, the command rang
through the ship, “Close the ports!” and a guard was stationed on
deck to prevent their apprehended larcenies. Failing to find em-
ployment as porters, they passed the whole day diving into the sea.
On shore we found invariably the same light hair on the heads of the
same race. “ Verily,” we said, “though in the times of Jeremiah
‘the leopard could not change his spots, nor the Ethiopian his
skin, the latter has since that time learned to change the color of
his hair.’ The Soumalans are ‘aborers, that is to say, the women
are. Blessed are the customs of these aboriginal Africans, far
more blessed than those of semi-civilized Asia. These Soumalan
women, with their glistening white tecth, red lips, and yellow eyes,
are the only women we have seen in the enjoyment of personal
freedom since we left the United States, except the Mongolians in
the Nan-Kow Pass. This enjoyment is not perhaps too dearly pur-
chased, even at the cost of performing the servile labor by which
their black lords live.
The buildings here are constructed of lava-rock, without any
pretension to elegance or even convenience.
The governor is a
gentleman of long experience, extensive information, and great
candor. The fortunate coincidence of finding Admiral Cockburn
BRITISH INDIA.
516
here with the Forte is especially gratifying. We have passed
4 the day on shore, and concerted a plan for a future and hopeful
ae ead | correspondence.’ e
It is not always safe to trust to fellow-passengers, or hastily.
made acquaintances, for an explanation of what you find curious jp
fozeign travel. We inquired of every one how it happens that these
black men of Soumala have red or tow hair. The first answer we
received was, that they are the “beaux” of Africa, that they dye
their hair to make themselves attractive. Others answered that
the race are red-haired men. The true explanation was given by the
governor, but it requires some caution in setting it down. Water
is scarce in this burning climate; the Soumalans use lime as a sub.
stitute, and this effects two important savings: one, the expense of
soap ; the other, the cost of a fine-tooth comb.
“Oh, tell me, where is fancy bred—
In the heart or in the head?”
It has often been a study of ours, Where are fashions bred?
* : is | We think we have found out that tho fashion of long-pointed finger.
ei. nails, now so much the vogue in Europe, is borrowed from the
c tebe. TI élite of China. Prince Kung’s nails are so long and s0 exquisitely
we cultivated as to discourage emulation in European diplomatic ci.
= Abe cles; and all the gold-dust, diamond-dust, or dyes of Paris, are inef-
oe be ; fectual, compared with the lime-wash of Soumala, for bleaching
tits e| hair.
1 March 21, 1872.—It is with deep sorrow that we record the death of this chivalrous
and pious gentleman. He fell a victim to the Indian climate.
Se, Hi SRE |
fe & tc
ep soe ree
3 5 tre fc.
Te a
We have passed
future and hopeful
>
issengers, or hastily.
tt you find curious in
it happens that these
The first answer we
Africa, that they dye
‘thers answered that
tion was given by the
‘ing it down. Water
ins use lime as a sub.
; one, the expense of
ed—
PART V,
e are fashions bred?
»f long-pointed finger.
3 borrowed from the
ng and so exquisitely
‘opean diplomatic cir.
lyes of Paris, are inef-
umala, for bleaching
EGYPT AND PA LESTINE.
1 the death of this chivalrous
throu
we ha
the R
rende
Frenc
sure t
erful f
the 3
low, sf
Altho
fanatiq
port ig
have t
peak,
the deg
quainty
CHAPTER I.
THE RED SEA AND SUEZ CANAL,
The Gate of Tears.—The Rock of Perim.—The Port of Mecca.—Imaginary Terrors.—
Pleasant Weather.—The Coasts of the Red Sea.—The Division of the Races.—A.
Refreshing Atmosphere.—The Track of the Israclites.—Suez.—The Ancient Canal.
—The New Canal.—lIts Inauguration.—Its Prospects.
Steamer Deccan, Red Sea, April 30th.—Last night we came
through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb (the Gate of Tears). Though
we had a growing moon, we were unable to discern either shore, or
the Rock of Perim, long famous for its supply of tortoise-shell, and
rendered notorious, in our own time, by the abortive attempt of the
French to secure it as a counter-salient to Aden. We are quite
sure that, with the aid of a strong glass, reénforced by a more pow-
erful faith, we discerned this morning the Arabian shore, and even
the minarets of some town. We are now sailing past a series of
low, sandy, uninhabited islands which lie off the Abyssinian shore.
May 3d.—-We have just passed Jiddah, the port of Mecca.
Although some of the European powers manage, in spite of the
fanatical ferocity of the natives, to maintain consulates there, the
port is visited only by Egyptian craft. On the western shore, we
have taken leave of Abyssinia, and now we make the towering
peak, Ras-Elba, which tells us that we have come far upward along
the desert shores of Nubia. From the day we formed our first ac-
quaintance with European sojourners in the East, at Yokohama,
5
i |
.
, ¥
&
& Sy
if
:
fe ve i 59
ihe?
1e.. 73
7°
ir,
52)
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
the one peril of our Western voyage, which was represented as the
most fearful, has been the scorching climate of the Red Sea. We
have been told that the steamer, driving before the wind, often re.
verses its course to procure relief, and that passengers die in their
‘abins, merely from the oppression of the atmosphere. We as con.
stantly opposed these fears, because we knew that latitude would be
in our favor, and we thought we might expect to mect reviving
breezes from the Mediterranean. We were right; not the Pacific
Ocean, nor even the Indian Ocean, furnished us a more pleasant
voyage than the Red Sea. The surface ruffled by the gentlest
of zephyrs, its waves, this morning, reflect rainbows broken with
myriads of prisms, as brilliant and as distinct as those which, on 4
summer day, dance in the spray below the cataract at Niagara. It
is not easy, perhaps, to ascertain on what grounds this great gulf,
twelve hundred miles long and two hundred miles wide, acquired,
so early as the time of Herodotus, the name of Red Sea. Probably
it was so named from the banks of coral which underlie its waters,
and which render its navigation dangerous. Certainly the water is
not red; this morning it assumes a hue of emerald-green.
Pleasant as the voyage is, however, no oie expresses a desire to
explore either coast of the Red Sea. The reason is, that such an
attempt would be dangerous. On the Arabian shore, the inhabi-
tants are relapsing into barbarism; while, on the African shore,
the people have never been reclaimed from the savage state. This,
therefore, is the most forlorn region through which we pass on our
voyage. Nevertheless, not only history, but even revelation, is at
fault, if we are not just now nearing the cradle of civilization,
How melancholy a thought it seems, that while we find prosperity,
improvement, and progress, or at least philanthropic effort, attend.
ed with hope in all parts of Asia through which we have passed, as
well as on the steppes of Northern Europe, and in the most desert
parts of America—and indeed civilization reclaiming the islands of
the sea near the North and South Poles—yet darkness continually
gathers in this, the oldest and most favored, region of the carth!
This must have happened because the two great divisions of the
human family, the white races and the dark races, meet here on the
opps
The
The
dark
peop
Ocea
trary
sprea
Euro
Ame
aban
white
ilizati
light |
have |
aratio
light,
Man ¢
of Pi
wavs.
Mi
phere,
Wear
ern of
tion,
gradusy
the Gt
mount
the fer
crossec
We ne
hot no
80 far
from G
bank 0
represented as the
the Red Sea. We
the wind, often re-
engers die in their
phere. We as con-
it latitude would be
t to meet reviving
it; not the Pacific
us a more pleasant
ed by the gentlest
inbows broken with
as those which, ona
vract at Niagara. It
unds this great gulf,
miles wide, acquired,
Red Sea. Probably
h underlie its waters,
Jertainly the water is
srald-green.
expresses a desire to
hason is, that such an
an shore, the inhabi-
n the African shore,
» savage state. This,
which we pass on our
even revelation, is at
rradle of civilization.
le we find prosperity,
thropic effort, attent.
ch we have passed, 3s
nd in the most desert
aiming the islands of
darkness continually
| region of the earth!
ereat divisions of the
aces, meet here on the
DIVERGENCE OF THE RACES, 521
opposite shores of the Red Sea, and the opposite banks of the Nile.
They did not commingle, and they could not remain together.
They parted, perhaps by consent, more probably by instinct, the
dark races retaining Africa, and, moving southward and eastward,
peopling India, Burmah, Thibet, China, Japan, the Archipelago,
Qeeanica, and Western America; the Caucasian race, on the con-
trary, leaving Asia as well as Africa to their dark competitors,
spread themselves continually northward and westward on the
European Continent, the islands of the Atlantic, and the eastern
American shores. The shores of the Red Sea have been practically
abandoned by both aces.
IIow strangely this divergence of the
white and the dark rcos perrlexes the problem of the ultimate civ-
ilization and unity of mankind! The darker races, following the
light of Nature, and rejecting or extinguishing that of revelation,
have stumbled, and are scarcely making any progress since the sep-
aration. The white races, more willingly accepting the greater
light, though they also have stumbled, have reached a higher plane.
Man can go no further in unravelling that perplexity. The designs:
of Providence are not unintelligible, but they are not man’s,
ways.
May 5th.—Tow refreshing and invigorating is this cool atmos-
phere, after the intemperate heat we endured so long in India!,
Weare now bearing westwardly into the Gulf of Sucz—the west-
em of the two gulfs which divide the Red Sea at its upper termina-
tion. The eastern one is Akabah. The Gulf of Suez contracts
gradually from forty miles to ten in width. The African coast of
the Gulf of Suez is a desert table-land, rising into equally sterile
mountains. These plains and mountains divide the Red Sea from
the fertile valley of the Nile. We suppose that we have already
crossed the path the Israclites took in their miraculous passage.
We need not, however, have come here to learn that the track can-
not now be precisely ascertained.
The topography of the region
80 far supports the-Scripture account as to indicate that the exiles
from Goshen might most naturally have come down the western
bank of the Gulf of Suez, and thence across the gulf to the end of,
522 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
the Sinaitic promontory; thence they would have passed through
Edom and Moab, now Arabia Petrzea, along the eastern shore of the
Dead Sea to the mouth of the Jordan. If we suppose, on the con.
trary, that they travelled around the head of the Gulf of Suez, their
journey would have been much longer and more exposed to pur-
suit by Pharaoh, but in that case it would lose altogether its mar.
vellous character. If we assume that they crossed through the wa.
ters, it is purely absurd to suppose that any landmarks or traces of
the miraculous passage could now be found. It is not so with
their march northward from the head o. the Red Sea. Sinai and
Horeb are two of 2 cluster of yellow mountain-peaks, which crown
the peninsula and divide the Gulf of Akabah from the Gulf of
Suez. While it is certain that we are at this moment looking from
the deck of our steamer upon both of these celebrated mountains,
it is nevertheless impossible to identify them. On the westem
shore of the Gulf of Akabah is the port bearing that name. It js
not doubtful, however, that this same Akabah is the Ezion-geber
of sacred history. It is no unimportant part that this place, now so
obscure, has held in the progress of human society.
“And when we passed by from our brethren the children of
Esau, which dwelt in Seir, through the way of the plain from
Elath, and from Ezion-geber, we turned and passed by the way
of the wilderness of Moab.”
“And King Solomon made a navy of ships in Ezion-geber,
which is beside Elath, on the shore of the Red Sea, in the land of
Edom.”
Jehoshaphat made ships of Tharshish to go to Ophir for gold:
but they went not; for the ships were broken at Ezion-geber.”
By-the-way, there has been a great revolution in exchanges
since Jehoshaphat’s time. The Western nations, instead of bring.
ing gold from India, now carry the precious metals into that coun
try.
Suez, May 6th.—It is difficult to say which of the two places is
the most forbidding and gloomy, Aden or Suez. Aden is scooped
out of black volcanic rock, Suez is built on a monotonous gray
sand-
enou
Neitl
impr
broug
pressi
smiles
safe |
struct
Su
contai
requir
ellers
there ;
occasic
becaus
house.
Te
here,
Khédi
Egypt
Charl
in beh
venien|
Tey
wheth
seven
across
think j
Egypt
that a
even if
channe
comes
severe
wve passed through
eastern shore of the
uppose, on the con-
Gulf of Suez, their
ore exposed to pur.
altogether its mar-
sed through the wa-
dmarks or traces of
It is not so with
‘ed Sea. Sinai and
peaks, which crown
h from the Gulf of
oment looking from
lebrated mountains,
1, On the western
1g that name. Itis
1 is the Ezion-geber
at this place, now so
lety.
tren the children of
of the plain from
passed by the way
lips in Ezion-geber,
1 Sea, in the land of
0 to Ophir for gold:
at Ezion-geber.”
ution in exchanges
ns, instead of bring:
etals into that coun
of the two places 18
z. Aden is scooped
a monotonous gray
ISMAILIA. 593
gand-beach.. It never rains here, naturally there is not moisture
enough to sustain a germ of vegetable life, or slake a camel’s thirst.
Neither flood nor desert, however, can perpetually defy the
improving hand of man. A stream of fresh water has been
brought through the desert from the Nile, which supplies the most
pressing wants of the town, and even a tiny garden occasionally
smiles on the desert-shore. The Suez Canal Company has made a
safe harbor here, with convenient wharves, upon which are con-
structed the railway-station and engine-houses.
Suez, like Omaha, is a great place in the future. At present it
contains the taverns, storehouses, and machine-shops, which are
required by a trade which is only recently opened. Some tray-
ellers assign to it a population of twenty-five thousand. We think
there may be ten thousand. All the buildings are of stone, except
occasionally a small frame structure used as a boarding-house, and,
because of its frail, fanciful construction, called an “ American ”
house.
Telegrams from Cairo were received on our coming to anchor
here, and soon afterward Betts Bey, a confidential officer of the
Khédive, came on board, with the United States consul-general for
Egypt, and our esteemed American friend from Washington, Mr.
Charles Knapp, of “ great-gun ” notoriety. Betts Bey tendered us,
in behalf of the Khédive, a special train for travel at our own con-
venience.
Ismailia, May 6th—We shall not now undertake to say
whether it was Sesostris, or some other Rameses or Necho, who,
seven hundred years before the Christian era, built a ship-canal
across the desert from Suez to Bubastis on the Nile. Nor do we
think it necessary to say that at the period of the first invasion of
Egypt by the Turkish Mohammedans, fourteen hundred years later,
that ancient and important navigation was so effectually lost that
even its route across the desert had entirely disappeared, and its
channel has never even been ascertained. Some good always
comes out of the greatest evils. Napoleon’s invasion in ’98 was a
severe scourge to Egypt. But the Suez Canal is the fruit of the
524 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
suggestions and surveys he then instituted with a view to restore orga
that invaluable highway. Seventy years were occupied with althic
explorations to remove speculative difficulties. These were—first, Befo
that the elevation of the Mediterranean and of the Red Sea were arres
unequal, rendering necessary a lockage, dangerous if not impracti- mile:
uble ; second, that no safe harbor could be built on the Mediter. canal
ranean coast ; third, that the deposits of the Nile on the Mediter. ¥
ranean shore have made an oozy bed, incapable of holding water: shall
fourth, that the sands of the desert, near the Red Sea, are incapa- now |
great
T
bank
Tims:
twent
feet, i
feet.
the ea
Port §
Po a ee a sides
pest: _
ie oS B work,
y=
ay
the wi
ing m
the Su
that w
a nar
Timsa
ISMAILIA. sry te
The ea
ble of retaining water; fifth, that the s¢roccos of the desert would M.
fill any channel with sand as fast as it could be excavated. There the we
were difficulties also of a political nature. The British Gover- canal,
i 4 . . . al ,
rT ;' ment was unwilling that the canal should be built under Frenc: town g
1e . T . . . thee ’
fer ge auspices, The Divan at Constantinople distrusted the loyalty ot Ity of §
Cit ty,
the Khédive, and was subservient to British influence, All thes: very he
objections, however, gave way at last, and in 1859 M, Ferdinand seven }
Lesseps, with the effective support of the then Khédive, Said Pach, sand, ¢
h a view to restore
ere occupied with
These were—first,
the Red Sea were
ous if not impracti-
ult on the Mediter-
Vile on the Mediter-
e of holding water;
Red Sea, are incapa-
L of the desert would
Lo excavated. There
The British Govern
» built under French
rusted the loyalty ot
influence, All thes:
1859 M. Jerdinan!
Khédive, Said Pach,
THE SUEZ CANAL. 525
organized a company and commenced the work. Now, in 1871,
althougn not fully completed, the canal is in practical operation.
Before leaving Suez, we examined the wharves and docks. We
arrested the train at Serapeum, twenty miles, and at Ismailia, fifty
miles from Suez, and inspected one of the deepest cuttings of the
canal. We saw how easily ships of three thousand tons can pass.
We left the northern end of the canal to be examined when we
shall have completed our trip in Southern Egypt. We mention
now a few only of the more remarkable matters belonging to the
great enterprise.
The canal is a hundred miles in length. It is carried on em-
bankments raised in four successive natural lakes, Bitter Lake, the
Timsah, the Ballah, and the Menzaleh. The depth of the water is
twenty-six feet, its width at the bottom two hundred and forty-six
feet, its minimum width at the top is three hundred and forty-six
feet. It is without locks. Steam-vessels—as yet none others use
the canal—make the transit in twenty-four hours. The harbor at
Port Said, on the Mediterranean, is formed by two projecting piers,
constructed of artificial stone made on the spot. In prosecuting the
work, a diminutive fresh-water canal was first constructed by using
the waters of the Nile. On the auxiliary canal, the barges convey-
ing men, machinery, and supplies, were transported. The water of
the Suez Canal, where we examined it, is of the same delicate blue
that we had observed in the Gulf of Suez. The canal scemed like
a narrow glossy ribbon, stretched across the yellow desert. Lake
Timsah is a large basin of salt-water which supplies what is neces-
sury to keep the canal at its proper level between the two seas,
The canal-water is unpalatable to man and beast.
M. Lesseps built a house near this lake, when he commenced
the work. He brought the Nile water then through the lesser
canal, and planted a garden. Contractors came there to reside, a
town grew up in the Arabian Desert, equal in magnitude and rapid-
ity of growth to Cheyenne. But the Frenchman made his town
very beautiful. A population of fifteen thousand gathered there in
seven years. Broad avenues and streets were marked over thie
sand, and soon were well paved, although stone is rarely found,
526 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
even at the bottom of the canal. Catholic churches, foreign con.
sulates, villas, banks, shops, and all other elements of the city, were
there. The town was justly named Ismailia in honor of Ismail
Pacha, the Khédive, and became at once a provincial capital. All
this was while the canal was in process of construction. What did
Ismailia want more? It wanted only the ‘formal opening of the
canal to assert itself a commercial and political centre. The day
which the new city so impatiently desired came at last. Ismailia
determined to introduce herself to the world by a grand festival,
The season was propitious. The American civil war, which had
filled the world with gloom, was ended. The French emperor had
withdrawn his invading armies from Mexico. The “sharp, short,
and decisive” war between Prussia and Austria was over. Not
even a signal-note was then heard of the Germanic-French War,
which last year broke upon Europe. The Temple of Janus was
closed. All the world knows how the Khédive appointed a day for
a celebration of the great enterprise, the greatest of the age. Of
course, he invited Napoleon, the imperial patron of the work, the
empress, in the fashionable sense “the light of the world,” and
with them all the kings and all the queens, and all the princes, and
all the presidents, statesmen, warriors, and savants of the earth, to
come to Ismailia. Nearly all who were invited came, personally or
by representative. They were received on the sea-shore, and at
Port Said. Splendid steam-yachts conveyed them up the Nile,
showing them the Pyramids, the ruins of Memphis and Thebes,
while waiting for the appointed day. Meantime the Kheédive, with
the energy and the profusion of Haroun-al-Raschid, bui't a palace
at Ismailia, and gave it all the spaciousness and embellishments
suitable for the entertainment of the majesties of the world. They
came, they passed in barges, brilliant as Cleoputra’s, through the
canal from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean. They spoke, they
drank, they danced, and they made the dreary desert for the first
time a field of chivalry and merriment. Ismailia was happy in the
lofty discourses it heard, the superb pageants it saw, and the magic
entertainments it enjoyed, as she was proud in the prestige which
this magnificent celebration confirmed. All Egypt was happy.
(
dem
the
The
alres
dese!
mon
bein:
or lal
rema
ships
and |
Keyp
no d:
pounc
waste
barras
in fro
and tl
Gr ‘1
notwi
intere
States
tolls, a
with t
inevit
rate of
voyag
ways |
All th
stockh
and m¢
lose th
result,
factors
rches, foreign con-
ts of the city, were
in honor of Ismail
‘incial capital. All
ruction. What did
nal opening of the
1 centre. The day
e at last. Ismailia
yy a grand festival.
vil war, which had
French emperor had
The * sharp, short,
tria was over. Not
rmanic-French War,
emple of Janus was
2 appointed a day for
rest of the age. Of
ron of the work, the
of the world,” and
d all the princes, and
ante of the earth, to
came, personally or
he sea-shore, and at
them up the Nile,
empnis and Thebes,
ne the Khédive, with
nschid, built a palace
and embellishments
of the world. They
pputra’s, through the
1. They spoke, they
y desert for the first
‘lia was happy in the
t saw, and the magic
n the prestige which
gypt was happy:
=
527
PROSPECTS OF THE CANAL.
Only a year and a half has elapsed since that magnificent
demonstration, and how sadly has Ismailia changed! We found
the population of the town reduced to less than two thousand.
The beautiful palace, now knowing neither master nor guest, has
already become monumental. The szroccos blow the sands of the
desert on the paved streets of Ismailia, and there is neither man nor
money to sweep them out. Contractors and workmen, their work
being completed, have disappeared, and no merchants, mechanics,
or laborers, have come in their place. The Suez Canal, however,
remains, @ commercial success. European and American steam-
ships-of-war, as well as mercantile vessels of the largest size, pass
and repass, but as yet bring no trade either to Ismailia or to
Egypt. They pay very large tolls, but the company not only makes
tio dividends, but demands a new subscription of ten million
pounds sterling to its stock, to secure the work against accident or
waste. The Egyptian Government, owning half the stock, is em-
barrassed, if not unable to make the subscription, and reports come
in from Europe (how eredible we do not know) that M. Lesseps
and the company are offering to sell the canal to British purchasers,
G aan bankers, American speculators, or whoever will buy. But,
notwithstanding all this, the Suez Canal is safe. The permanent
interests of Egypt, France, Great Britain, Germany, the United
States, of civilization itself, will not allow it to be closed. The
tolls, already ample to compensate its superintendence, will increase
with the steady increase of steam navigation, and that increase is
inevitable. The steam-voyage from Europe to India, whatever
rate of toll the Suez Canal may demand, will be cheaper than the
voyage around the Cape of Good Hope. Heavy freights can al-
ways be carried more cheaply by steam on the sea than on the land.
All that can happen or will happen of misfortune will be that new
stockholders will obtain the stock at reduced prices, and the original
and meritorious projectors and prosecutors of the enterprise will
lose the whole or part of their investment. This, although a sad
result, will only be a renewal of an old experience of public bene-
factors,
CHAPTER II.
FROM SUEZ TO CAIRO.
The Bedouin Arabs.—A Wady.—Goshen.—Nubian Troops.—A Splendid Sunset,—The
Palace of Repose.—The Khédive-—The Population of Egypt.—The Khédive’s Im
provements.—A Visit to the Harem.—The Female Slaves.—Egypt and Utah.
Cairo, May 6th.—From Suez to Cairo is one hundred and
thirty miles. Leaving Ismailia at five o’clock, we continued our
monotonous way for two hours, The desert has no inhabitants,
except a small force of Arab laborers employed in keeping the
canal and railroad free from the whirling sands.
On this journey we have made our first acquaintance with the
Bedouin Arabs. They were encamped with their camels and horses
on an oasis of hardly thirty rods in circumference, its vegetation
being due to a leakage of the small “ Swect-water” Canal, The
3edouin tents indicate vagrancy. The encampment had no wom-
en; the men are stalwart and handsome. How long will it be
before these travellers of the sands, dispensing with their cara-
rans, will be buying “ excursion-tickets ” on railroads and steam:
boats ?
It is a singular contrast of man’s enterprise against Nature's
‘ed
impassibility that our path through the desert is mai
only by the interoceanic canal, but also by an interoccanic railroad,
and by several telegraph-lines. Of these, the first is the Egyptian
line; the second, the European and Indian line; the third, th
Suez-Canal line. The whole of Egypt, Upper and Lower included,
"
Be iii
WA || hail
A | l Spee
| A
A Splendid Sunset,—The
rypt.—The Khédive’s Im
—Egypt and Utah.
; one hundred and
<, we continued our
has no inhabitants,
ved in keeping the
VIEW ON THE NILE.
uaintance with the
‘ir camels and horses
rence, its vegetation
8 i ry | Hi | Mh
water Canal. The MAN
pment had no wom-
HA ll
ow long will it be
ng with their cara
railroads and steam-
ise against Natures
is marked out, not
nteroceanie railroad,
first is the Egyptian
line; the third, th
and Lower included,
f ait} 4 |
WA HH | vith i PULTE
! TR RL HAAS WUE (SE HN WH Wan \
|
(
Wilh Ht HAN i IA
SAMANTHA UT AN itillt ARTA ’
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
530
does not furnish sufficient timber for telegraph-poles. These are
brought from the forests of the Danube.
At the end of our two hours’ ride, we crossed a broad piece of
interval land, here called a wady, which is partially irrigated by one
of the innumerable canals taken from the Nile. This wady is gen.
erally understood to be within the district of Goshen. The ruins
of a large town on its borders are said to bear evidences of Jewish
architecture. We, however, can state nothing, for we found, on
orriving here, a traveller who, having inspected the site, pro-
7 ees the claim apocryphal. We came soon upon the plain of
th grec river, where land and water are always changing, and
found it covered with tropical vegetation, luxuriant and abundant.
We had scarcely entered the plain before we observe’! troops of
pee lank, half-famished dogs, resembling the jackal. No one claims
ae them, and they know no master—they are not unjustly described
y fm as pariah-dogs. We rested in Goshen for hal’ an hour, enjoying
oe the sumptuous lunch which we found awaiting us there. Resum.-
« > | ing our way, we passed a large encampment of Egyptian troops,
Mes youl all black, athletic Nubians, in clean white uniforms. Next in
Pug splendor to the sunset at Yeddo, which we have recorded, was the
{ | sunset which welcomed us to the banks of the Nile. Beyond fields
; of ripened wheat, alternating with the springing Indian-corn, and
athe 4 vegetable gardens, everywhere shaded by the date-palm, the Pyra-
mids towered clear against the horizon. Colorless as the rocks and
sands on which they stand, they scarcely attained a darker shade as
the sun went down behind them. For a moment, the monotonous
coloring of sand, pyramids, and sky, gave place to the soft, hazy,
commingling of crimson, violet, and gold, through which the god
of day delights here to enter his dark chamber in the west. All of
this came quickly to an end, and the desert and the horizon, resum-
ing their dark, leaden hues, left it uncertain which had absorbed
the other.
“ko Kasr Nudjii, Cairo, May Tth.—Our reception at Suez, and our
journey hither, under the conduct of the viceroy’s commissioner,
had not at all prepared us, as they might have done, for the gentle
hosp
pose,
T
with
litera
as it.
Egyp
Ismai
Paché
of Eg
succer
old.
succes
tion is
He w:
guage
morni
eleven
Sentin
of the
other «
an auc
the Kg
Mr. §
bers td
side 0
Altho
verses
presse
the jug
do all
Egypt
in whic
tation,
agricul
Sewar
poles. These are
d a broad piece of
ly irrigated by one
This wady is gen-
shen. The ruins
ridences of Jewish
for we found, on
ted the site, pro-
upon the plain of
ays changing, and
ant and abundant.
observe’! troops of
1. No one claims
unjustly described
an hour, enjoying
us there. Resum-
yf Egyptian troops,
niforms. Next in
e recorded, was the
ile. Beyond fields
g Indian-corn, and
ate-palm, the Pyra-
ss as the rocks and
da darker shade as
nt, the monotonous
to the soft, hazy,
gh which the god
the west. All of
the horizon, resum-
hich had absorbed
on at Suez, and our
oy’s commissioner,
one, for the gentle
THE EGYPTIAN KHEDIVE. 531
hospitalities we are receiving. This palace, “the Palace of Re-
pose,” is embosomed in gardens.
The outside world seems never to have come to an agreement
with the Egyptians as to the title of their sovereigns. In Hebrew
literature, we read of Pharaoh, as if that were a proper name, where-
as it is simply the Egyptian word for king. Khédive is, in modern
Egypt, the title for which the Europeans use the word viceroy.
Ismail Pacha, the present Khédive, is a son of the eminent Ibrahim
Pacha, and grandson of the illustrious Mehemet Ali, the restorer
of Egypt, after its ruin under the sway of the Mamelukes. He
succeeded his uncle, Said Pacha, in 1863, and is fifty-five years
old. By a treaty, which he made last year with the Sultan, the
succession is confirmed to his family in a direct li: Nis deriva-
tion is from Macedonia, and his appearance is decided], “uropean.
He was educated, in part, in France. He speaks the French lan-
guage, and inclines to French tastes and affinities. Arriving this
morning, at six o’clock, from an excursion on the Nile, he appointed
eleven o’clock to receive Mr. Seward at the 1 viace of Ghezireh.
Sentinels were placed, at convenient distances, along the outer wall
of the palace, and a small guard at the gate. The chief-of-staff and
other officers met Mr. Seward at the door, and conducted him to
an audience-chamber where the Khédive was standing dressed in
the Egyptian military uniform with the ¢arboosh or fez. Receiving
Mr. Seward kindly, he conducted him through several antecham-
bers to an inner audience-room, and invited him to a seat at his
side on adivan. Coffee and chibougues were immediately offered.
Although the Khédive’s countenance is dull and heavy, he con-
verses in French with ease, sagacity, and intelligence. He ex-
pressed a high appreciation of the United States, and especially of
the justice they practise in international relations. He desired to
do all that might be in his power to make Mr. Seward’s travels in
Egypt safe and agrceable. Conversation of half an hour ensued,
in which the Khédive appeared equally free from pretension, affec-
tation, or reserve. It took a broad range, embracing politics,
agriculture, internal improvement, and popular education, Mr.
Seward says, if he had met the Khédive in a social circle incognito,
times Ww S
532 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
he should have thought him an accomplished country gentlemay
interested in education and social reforms, or a railroad contractor,
a speculator in lands, or a planter, just as the subject of conversa.
tion might happen to turn. He has two traits most admirable in
administrator or prince—perfect good-nature and equanimity.
IIardly had Mr. Seward returned from his audience when the
Khédive, attended by his prime-minister, Chérif Pacha, arrived at
the Kasr Nudjii, to return the visit. When Mr. Seward presented
the iadies to him, he at once engaged in agreeable converse with;
them, and cordially expressed a hope that they would visit the
ladies of his family. The well-trained stewards of Kasr Nudji
needed no instructions to serve the guests with the purest of Mocha
coffee in the tiniest of golden cups, and the most fragrant Latakieh
tobacco in jewelled chibouques with amber mouth-pieces. The
Khédive remained with us aa hour, conversing freely on political
affairs, and the subjects of interest in our travels.
The population of Egypt is eight millions, consisting of two
classes. The paramount class consists of immigrants or sojourners
from Christian countries, European or American. They lead in
commerce, banking, and manufactures. These foreigners, what
ever be their distinct nationalities, are called Franks, and they re:
tain, by virtue of treaties called “concessions” between the Sultan
and Christian states, their respective nationalitics and allegiance.
They are not only exempt from the judicial authority of the Egyp-
tian Government, but also from taxation. Thus, they constitute a
governing class, independent of the Government itself. In short,
they replace the Mamelukes. The Khédive’s great difficulty con-
sists in conducting his administration so as to satisfy this class with
out arousing the jealousy of the natives, and thus avoiding interven-
tion by foreign powers. The native class are of mixed races. A
small portion of it are Copts, descendants of the original Egyptians,
now Christians. A large population, principally near the Mediter-
ranean coast, are chiefly of Arabian extraction, and are Mohamme-
dans. Both these classes are illiterate and poor, and are called
Sellahs ; besides these, there are Nubians, Abyssinians, and other
Africans. Over all these native classes, the Khédive exercises
Bey con
our part
the Pri
abse
plea
cons
since
Sult
of Ei
matt
of loy
subm
sonal
leon |
his pe
tion, 1
his ad
a bol
ments,
it will
than 1
has al
hundr
carryit
domini
Suez ©
politica
ind gr
one-fift]
charaet
cles of
that is 1
incredil
persona
May
untry gentleman
jlroad contractor,
pject of conversa.
nost admirable in
equanimity.
udience when the
Pacha, arrived at
Seward presented
ible converse with
y would visit the
is of Kasr Nudjii
re purest of Mocha
, fragrant Latakieh
outh-pieces. The
- freely on political
.
, consisting of two
rants or sojournels
an. They lead in
foreigners, what
ranks, and they re-
between the Sultan
tics and allegiance.
hority of the Egyp:
s, they constitute 4
nt itself. In short,
reat difficulty con-
tisfy this class with-
s avoiding interven-
of mixed races. A
original Egyptians,
ly near the Mediter-
and are Mohamme-
oor, and are called
yssinians, and other
Khédive exercises
THE KHEDIVE'’S ADMINISTRATION, 533
absolute power. He taxes, conscribes, and even confiscates, at
pleasure. But this despotic authority has one practical, though not
constitutional limitation. The majority of his subjects, being
sincere and bigoted Mohammedans, never cease to regard the
Sultan of Turkey as their sovereign, The Mohammedan natives
of Egypt are not troubled with metaphysical distinctions between
matters temporal and matters spiritual. They make it a condition
of loyalty to their Khédive that he shall in all cases be loyal and
submissive to the Sultan. The Khédive’s administration is a per-
sonal one, even more so than that of his friend and late ally, Napo-
leon IIL. Every transaction of the Government is conducted with
his personal knowledge, and by his direction. Without his diree-
tion, nothing can be done. It is due to the Khédive. to say that
his administration is successful, and even popular. No nation has
a bolder projector, or more liberal patron, of internal improve-
ments. Ife is reconstructing the city of Cairo. Five years hence,
it will no more resemble the Grand Cairo of the Saracenic age
than modern Paris resembies the Paris of Louis Quatorze. He
has already extended the Alexandria and Cairo Railroad one
hundred and fifty miles toward Upper Egypt, and is intent upon
carrying it to the Soudan, the extreme southern province in his
dominions. We have already spoken of his muniticence to the
Suez Canal, but these improvements are prosecuted by him in his
political character. Individually, he is the largest land-proprietor
ind greatest agriculturist in Egypt. They tell us that he owns
one-fifth of the tillable land of the country. In this distinct private
character he has a private treasury, and credit in the financial cir-
cles of Europe. THis wealth is estimated in billions. The claim
that is made for him, that he is the richest man in the world, is not
incredible. What is more marvellous is, that he superintends his
personal estate as well as public affairs.
May Sth.—Soon after the Khédive left us last evening, Betts
Bey communicated the invitation of the Khédive to the ladies of
our party, to visit the harem at the palace of the Khédive’s mother,
the Princess Validé, at the Kasr Ali, at cleven o'clock to-day.
30
ttacts &
~s wast
58 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
There was a difficulty, for the ladies, after so many months’ travel,
were reduced to black or white morning costumes. Although no
color or form of dress ws prescribed in the invitation, we learned
that on no account would black be allowed. <A prejudice, cither
national or religious, prevails in the harem, that, if any misfortune
occurs in the palace within a period of six months after a black
dress or trimming has been worn there by any Christian woman,
the visitor is responsible for it. Through the help of our country:
woman Mrs. Stone, the necessary dresses of blue and lavender
were procured, and the ladies repaired to Kasr Ali attended by a
governess of the young princess, and by Betts Bey. Two compa.
nies of Nubian troops, which guarded the high arched gate of the
outer walls, presented arms as the party entered. Crossing 4
broad paved court, they received similar honors at the second gate,
aud again at the third gate. ILere Betts Bey stopped, and the
ladics, as they alighted from the carriage, were met by eight jet-
black eunuchs in Egyptian uniform, and conducted through a beau:
tiful garden to the vestibule of the palace. As they approached
the vestibule, they saw that it was filled with young Circassian
slave-girls, dressed in gay-colored gauzes and muslins, some wit)
little turban-hats. Two of these, wearing richer dresses than the
others, and displaying many diamonds, took each of the visitors by
the hand, and conducted them through endless corridors and salon:
the slaves following. These corridors and chambers were fur.
nished with carpets of velvet, curtains of damask and lace, satin
sofas and divans, great mirrors and crystal chandeliers, but were
destitute of such works of art and articles of vertu as are deemed
indispensable in a palace of the West. With this attendance, they
were at last ushered into a salon not inferior in dimensions or con-
struction to the East Room of the White [louse. The Princes:
Validé is the first lady of the state, taking precedence of the vice:
roy’s wives and daughters, all of whom are called princesses.
When the ladies entered, she was reclining on a divan at the far
ther end of the hall, one of the “ princess-wives ” sitting near her.
and sixty slave-girls formed in a crescent-shaped group at her ict
haad. The women who followed the guests arranged themselves
in {
adv:
rece
face
She
to tl:
lett.
Covel
Turk
was f
surm.
meda
like a
liain¢
Tl
hoots,
or Lor
risian
Europ
with t
the P
lady o:
Hd y-0
ly 3!
plimer
On su
golden
which
spoons
offered
of Egy
with ar
és ch
profuse,
the chil
small gj
coffee,
mother
y months’ travel,
8. Although no
ation, we learned
; prejudice, cither
if any misfortune
aths after a black
Christian woman,
lp of our country-
sue and lavender
Ali attended by a
Bey. Two compa-
arched gate of the
ered. Crossing &
at the second gate,
y stopped, and. the
» met by eight jet-
ted through a beau:
\3 they approached
» young Circassian
muslins, some with
rer dresses than the
ch of the visitors by
corridors and salon:
chambers were {ur
nask and lace, satin
handelicrs, but were
vertu as are ¢ eemed
his attendance, they
1 dimensions or con
ouse. The Princes
ecedence of the vice:
ro called princesses
ma divan at the {a
fos? sitting near her.
ped group at het
’ ina
Pach
arranged themselve:
THE KUEDIVE’S HAREM,
535
in a corresponding half-circle on the opposite side. The visitors
advanced between the two groups toward the divan, and were
received by her Highness standing. er dark eyes are sharp, her
fuee expressive of great cleverness, her voice clear and pleasant.
She received the ladies with perfect courtesy, and presented them
to the princess at her side, and then invited them to seats on her
left. The princess was dressed in a long white satin skirt which
covered her feet, and a black-velvet jacket with long pointed
Turkish sleeves. A fold of violet satin, with variegated border,
was fastened around her head with a band of diamonds, the whole
surmounted with a solétazre diamond of immense size. A large
medallion likeness of the Khédive, sct in diamonds, was fastened
like a “decoration ” on the left lapel of her jacket; an enormous
diamond graced the first finger of her left hand.
The princess-wife wore a green-silk dress with lace, hat, gloves,
boots, and fan, which must have been lately imported from Paris
or London, and her light-brown hair was dressed in the latest Pa-
risian fashion. ‘The harem-ladics confess being very partial to the
European modes, They have already ordered outfits from London,
with the request that they may be counterparts of the ¢rousscau of
the Princess Louise. The conversation was in Arabic, the English
lady-governess acting as interpreter. After an exchange of com-
pliments, which were perhaps no more commonplace than is usual
on such occasions in other countries, the slave-girls brought on a
olden salver iced water, Turkish and Egyptian conserves, among
which were sugared rose-leaves in enamelled cups, with golden
spoons that might serve a fairy, then chibouqnes, one of which was
offered to each lady. The bowl of the chibouque is of the red clay
of Egypt, the stem, five feet long, of the fragrant Danubian willow,
with an amber mouth-piece eight inches long. The Princess Vali-
dé’s chibomque had a jasmin-stem and mouth-piece of black amber
profusely set with diamonds. Etiquette forbids a guest to decline
the chibouque, which is smoked by allowing the bowl to rest in a
small silver tray on the floor. With the chibouque came delicious
coffee, black, and flavored with the attar of roses. The princess-
mother explained the condition of the slave-women, She says they
_—
are brought from their native land when quite young, and are pro
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
vided with husbands and dowries. ‘They are very lucky,” she
said, with a laugh. Two hundred were seen on this occasion,
They are neither pretty nor graceful, and appeared, as they went
throngu their ceremonial attendance, like the chorus-singers of a
German opera-troupe. The princess-wife said that she was trom
Circassia, without mentioning that she had been a slave. ‘ We
cary get no more slaves from my beautiful country” she added,
with a sigh, “ since the Russians have taken it.” It is quite usual
for the viceroy to choose a wife among the slaves. When married,
they become princesses, their former state being forgotten. De.
yond these details, voluntarily given, the conversation was little
more than a catechism of the guests on frivolous subjects, such as:
“Tlow old are you?) How many brothers and how many sisters
have you? What are their ages? Are you married? Why not!
Are you going to be? How old is Mr. Seward? What does he
travel for? How many sons has he? Ilow old are they? Tow
many of them are married? Tas he any grandchildren ¢ Low oli
are they? Ilow many are boys, how many are girls ¢”’—and the
like. The conversation betrayed a provincial deference for the
Sultan’s harem, and for Stamboul. Ten girls now entered with
violins, citherns, and other instruments, and, arranging them:
selves in a crescent, gave some very sweet music. When this wes
ended, ten other Circassian girls came forward, in short pink-and:-
white satin dresses, covered with silver lace and spangles, long
white-satin Turkish trousers and French boots, and began a dance
that, with short intervals in which they rested and the guests
drank coffee, lasted three hours. These artistes were somewhat
prettier than the slave-girls in direct attendance on the princesses
and they made a marked display of their luxuriant blond hair.
The Princess Validé told us that, since the ladies of the harem
were allowed to see the European opera and ballet at the theatre
in Alexandria, they have become quite disgusted with the native
performances of their own country, In our judgment, however,
the “shawl-dance,” rendered by the Circassian slaves, is as grace
fil as any European ballet, and is entirely unobjectionable. In
taki
rene
delic
gold
oles
train
vesti
perti
to th
able
L
think
made
pect i
it sho
its el¢
it so ©
of wh
matro
circle,
educat
illiter:
morali
seemer
to beli
will as
lous ar
by Ens
fessors
chosen
men,
system
degrad
Mohan
We
hetwe.
ung, and are pro
very lucky,” she
on this occasion.
red, as they went
shorus-singers of a
hat she was from
ma slave. * We
utry ” she added,
Tt is quite usual
;, When married,
ig forgotten. Be.
ersation was little
s subjects, such as:
-how many sisters
urried 2 Why not!
d? What does he
dare they? How
hildren ? Low old
‘e girls 4”°—and the
1 deference for the
now entered with
1, arranging then
sic. When this wes
, in short pink-and-
and spangles, long
y and began a dance
ted and the guests
stes were somewhat
‘eon the princesses
ixuriant blond hair
ladies of the harem
ballet at the theatre
sted with the native
judgment, however
n slaves, is as grace
unobjectionable. In
LIFE IN THE WAREM. 537
taking leave, the Princess Validé cordially invited the ladies to
renew their visit. In passing through the antechamber, deliciously
delicate iced sherbets were served in golden goblets, then a large,
gold-embroidered and fringed muslin napkin was tendered to each
guest, with which she touched her lips, and passed on. The slave-
trains, in crescent platoons, followed through the corridors to the
vestibule, bringing to the visitors their cloaks, smoothly folded, in
perfumed satin bags. The eunuch guards made the same homage
to the guests as when they entered, and the inseparable and invalu-
able Betts Bey was at the gate.
Lady Mary Wortley Montagu’s incomparable letters were, we
think, the first revelatior. of harem-lite to Western society. They
made that life seem innocent and attractive. It wears the same as-
pect in the “Arabian Nights’ Entertainments.” It is not strange that
it should make that imp-ession on occasional visitors, who see only
its elegance and repose, while the jealousies, vice, and crime, which
it so often develops, are concealed. We have been content to speak
of what we saw, and as we saw it. The princess-mother seemed a
matron who would be held in respect in any court or in any social
circle, Notwithstanding the assurance she gave us, concerning tlic
education of the Circassian slaves, they seemed, without exception,
illiterate and dull, While the harem betrayed nothing of im-
morality or impropricty, all the inmates except the Princess Validé
seemed simply idle and trivolous. There is, however, much reason
to believe that, if the life is capable of elevation and refinement, it
will assume that character under the direction of the present emu-
lous and enlightened Khédive, who is having his daughters trained
by English governesses, and his sons by French and English pro-
fessors, I*rom our stand-point, the harem is the last school to be
chosen for the edueation of wives and mothers, of rulers and states-
men. We see nothing here to shake our conviction that the
aystem of early Jewish polygamy is rendered more completely
degrading to woman as well as to nan by its combination with
Mohammedan sensuality and jealousy.
We cannot leave this subject without instituting a comparison
between polygamy in Egypt and polygamy at Salt Lake. Happily,
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
the institution as established in Utah is free from the odious slave.
trade in women, by which the harems in the East, for a thousand
years, have been supplicd by Circassia, Happily woman, on the
American Continent, has never been cursed with that odious anid
disgusting class of police which the eastern harems have had from
the dawn of human history; happily still, the forced attempt to
reéstablish the institution in Utah is attended by the necessity of
educating the children, if not the inmates of the harem, up to the
standard of civilized Christian countries. From this contrast, we
think we may inter: first, that the wretched institution of polyy.
amy is essentially and favorably modified at Salt Lake; and second,
that, even with such modifications, it cannot long be maintaine!
there or elsewhere.
A GIRL OF CAIRo,
i
mids,
time,
plore
rious
from
Dante
Pyrat
ilso Aq
np
i
COUNTS
in the
the odious slave-
st, for a thousand
y woman, on the
. that odious and
ns have had trom
forced attempt to
y the necessity of
_ harem, up to thie
1 this contrast, we
stitution of polyg-
CHAPTEN II.
Lake; and. second,
me be maintaine! CAIRO AND TIE PYRAMIDS,
The Road to the Pyramids.—The Style of the Vieeroy,—Interior of the Great Pyramid.
—The Sphinx.—Mariette Bey.—Use of the Pyramids.—Rapucious Arabs.—The
Pheonix,—The Site of On.—Ruins of Heliopolis.—The Tree of the Holy Family.—
Mohammed Tauphik.—The Americans in Egypt.—The Citadel of Cairo —A Museum
of Antiquities. —Modern Cairo.—The Copts.—The Nilometer.—The Tombs of the
Caliphs.—The Cemeteries of Cairo —The Mosques.—The Dancing Dervishes.—Ghe-
zirch,—Polygamy.—The Cairo of To-day,
Nasr Mudjii, May 9th.—We have given the day to the Pyra-
mids, They deserved it, as they have exhausted it. From the
time, twenty-five hundred years ago, when the Greck first ex-
plored Egypt, until just now, a visit to the Pyramids was a labo
rious undertaking. Whether the traveller advanced toward them
from Alexandria, or only from Cairo, an infinite preparation, of
boats, and guides, and camels, of donkeys led and donkeys driven,
of tents and provisions, for a tedious and circuitous journey among
the dikes and canals of the Nile, was requisite. Now, all this
changed, or at least it has been changed for us. The Khé-
ive, in preparing for the Suez-( ‘anal celebration, built a high, em-
banked road, across the valley of the Nile, to the very foot of the
Pyramids, planting it with full-grown shade-trees. Ie constructed
ilso a fine kiosk, at the base of the Pyramids, in the desert. These
improvements are popularly said to have been made as an especial
courtesy to the Empress Eugénie. We, however, have participated
in their benefits, just as we did in the use of the pier which was
540 EGYPT AND PALES'DN i.
built tor the Duke of Edinburgh, at Eley tanta, ta tadia, Wy,
wade the journey, from our house to the Pyramids, in open ba-
rouches, with four horses and postilions. We notice here a prac-
tical difference in the style maintained by the British Viceroy of
India and that of the native Viceroy of Egypt. The former dresses
his postilions in the brilliant colors and graceful costumes of’ the
East, and caparisons his horses in leopard and tiger skins. The
Kheédive copies the awkward liveries and trappings of the West;
his postilions are French jockeys.
& PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH,
The Pyramids have not disappointed us, as they do most travel-
lers. Even at the greatest distance they do not seem diminutive.
We had reason to regret, however, that the Khédive’s highway
did not continue into the interior of the great Pyramid of Cheops.
The only entrance is by an aperture which the Greeks found
hermetically sealed, and which is now partially opened. — This
aperture is now forty feet above the ground, and is reached only
by climbing the outer wall. By the dim light admitted through
the aperture, we descended to the interior of the pyramid by
an inclined plane perhaps forty feet, and then, turning at right
ang
deep
torch
bent
row (
oe Qu
are oO
and °
dang
“Cin
the *
open
to ree
tells ¢
in wh
The f
from t
of ver
entere
literal
Th
ments,
tivel ME
Archie
the Sp
the img
view sl
Vevert
Sphinx
behold
colossal
lax
clondle
n the
memo
Mariett
ta India. We
rids, iy open ba. y
tice here a prac-
ritish Viceroy ot
he former dresses
-eostumes of the
iger skins. The
ngs of the West:
ev do most travel-
seem diminutive.
hédive’s high» \\
ramid of Cheops.
he Greeks found
ly opened, This
dis reached only
admitted through
the pyramid by
turning at right
THE SPHINX, 541
angles, by another inclined plane a hundred fect, covcred aniie-
deep with the sands accumulated for ages. Here the guides lighted
torches, and, making a zigzag way right and lett, we walked half
bent along other planes, until we entered, through a very nar-
row door, the lowest explored apartment in the pyramid, called the
“Queen’s Chamber.” It is perhaps twelve feet square. The walls
are of highly-polished red granite. The chamber is dark, silent,
and vacant. I*rom it, by upward ways not less perplexing than
dangerous, we ascended to the greater apartment, called the
“King’s Chamber,” thirty feet by twenty, the walls like those of
the “ Queen’s Chamber.” Near one end of the room is an immense
open sarcophagus, also of red granite. It was doubtless prepared
to receive the remains of the builder of the pyramid. Dut history
tells of no velics contained in it. It is exactly in the condition now
in which the first explorers described it two thousand years ago.
The feeblest utterance in either chamber produces stunning echoes
from the stupendous walls. The architects evidently had no idea
of ventilation. Instead of coming back as strong as when they
entered the “ King’s Chamber,” the ladies, quite unconscious, were
literally borme out by the sturdy Arab guides.
The Sphinx, however, is the most attractive of all the monu-
ments. It is more than sixty feet high, its human head more than
twel® feet long, the nose four feet long, the mouth two feet wide.
Archwology bears little testimony concerning the conception of
the Sphinx. It was built after the Pyramid of Cheops. Most of
the innumerable pictures of the Sphinx are in profile. A front
view shows that the face, especially the nose, has been mutilated.
Nevertheless the expression is one of supreme benignity. The
Sphinx does not scem to wonder while it excites the wonder of the
beholder. The effect cannot be conceived unless, together with the
colossal figure itself, we bring up its associations. Taken with
these, the grim gigantic Pyramids, the indefinable débris, and the
cloudless, treeless, limitless sterility of the scene, and they awaken
n the beholder imaginations of events and of men of whom
inemory, history, and tradition, alike fail to impart any knowledge.
Mariette Bey, an indefatigable antiquary in the Khédive’s service,
542 EGYP! AND PALESTINE,
has within the last six years excavated an areca between Cheops the
and the Sphinx, in which he found a subterranean temple. We of
It is one story high, built entirely of red granite, kin
We
mal
explored it.
dep
anil
dee
cont
\ they
4 AN \\)
r % Rin habi
oP arti \ ance
ing
excht
tecte
pryil
avout
were
obstr
liims¢
mcast
of the
THE SPHINX many
sands
Without arches, inscriptions, ornaments, painting, or sculpture ot how
any kind. It contains ten spacious chambers, all opening int Notw
cach other. Mariette Bey has been unable to form an opinion and ct
whether this temple was designed as a place of worship of the
emins of the kings interred in the Pyramids, or whether it is
temple erected for the worship of the god Anaraches, who is sup B® tiang:
posed by some antiquaries to be represented by the Sphinx 4 ture, |
No unsophisticated person, who for the first time sees the Pyra ing to
mids, the sarcophagus of Cheops, the newly-disclosed temple, and
. between Cheops
ean temple. We
ly of red granite,
ting, or sculpture ot
ws, all opening int
to form an opinion
co of worship of the
is, or Whether it isa
saraches, who is st}
yy the Sphinx
‘ Deepa
st time sees the Pyra
disclosed temple, aud
THE PYRAMIDS. 543
vt
the Sphinx, can for a moment doubt that they are simply sepulchres
of the Cead, safe depositories, where the embalmed bodies of the
kings might rest in secure concealment during their appointed term.
We know from history that the ancient Egyptians believed, after a
manner, in the resurrection of the dead. They believed that the
departed spirit would pass through a series of migrations in interior
animal forms, more or less happy or miserable according to their
deeds, when living as men; that this period of migration would
continue three thousand years, and at the expiration of that term
they would return and resume the bodies they had originally in-
habited, and enter into a new existence on the earth. In accord.
ance with this belief arose the ancient Egyptian custom of embalin.
ing the bodies of the dead, and of preserving them in cases which
excluded the air and other elements, and depositing them thus pro-
tected in dry, rocky caverns, hermetically sealed so as to defy the
prying search of man and beast.
Our exploration of the Pyramids was not altogether free from
the experience of which travellers always complain. A crowd of
rpacious Arabs gathered from the dismal hovels of the villages
around, who continually demand a bachsheesh for services which
were oflicious and unsolicited. TLalf a dozen of these at every point
obstructed our way, under the pretence of showing it, One planted
himself at the foot of the Sphinx to serve as a standard by which to
measure its height. If you retuse their offer to carry you to the top
of the Pyramids, they run up the steep acclivity themselves like so
many lizards. You decline their support in walking through the
sinds; they compensate themselves for the denial by telling wou
how the Pyramids and the Sphinx were raised in a single night.
Notwithstanding these annoyances, our excursion was suecessful,
and ended with a pleasant entertainment in the luxurious kiosk.
Cairo, May 10th.—Tcrodotus says, in his account of the Egyp-
tians: * They have also another sacred bird, which, except in a pic-
ture, I have never seen, and which is called the phoenix, . .. Accord-
ing to the Heliopolitans, it comes there but once in five hundred
years, and then at the decease of the parent-bird. It it have any
EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
544
resemblance to its pictures, the wings are partly of a gold-color and
partly of a ruby-color, and in form and size it is perfectly like the
eagle... . They say that it comes from Arabia to the Temple of
the Sun, bearing the dead body of its parent enclosed in myrr|,
which it buries. It makes a ball of myrrh shaped like an egg, as
large as it is able to carry, which it proves by experiment this
done, it excavates the mass, and introduces the body of the dead
bird. It closes the aperture with myrrh, and the whole becomes
of the same weight as when composed only of myrrh. It then pro-
ceeds to Egypt to the Temple of the Sun.”
We drove this morning to the site of ancient On, otherwise
ealled Beth-shemesh (Heliopolis), ten miles northeast from Cairo,
twenty miles from ancient Memphis. Of course we found there no
hal}
Me ay ° s > . > . e
ane “images,” “no house of the sun,” no city of Heliopolis, no pho
nix, nor the grave of any
“lonely bird
Who sings at the last his own death-lay,
And in music and perfume dies away.”
What we did find is a plain, with here and there a iow mound
: ° of pulverized bricks. There is a dispute whether these dchr7s are
the ruins of the Temple of the Sun or of the walls of the city. A
monolith obelisk of red granite rises between two of the mounds,
It is sixty-eight feet high, and bears an hieroglyphic inscription
which recites a date two thousand and eighty years before our era,
An Arabian historian of the middle ages describes another one,
which stood near the present obelisk, as an embellishment of the
Temple of the Sun. The ground at the base of the existing obelisk
has been excavated, and the pedestal is found buried to the depth
of six feet. It is inferred from this fact that the plain of the Nile
tt here has been raised by its inundations six feet in four thousand
4 ) ‘
wes years, On the west and south sides of the monument the bees
18 4 ° e
f : have made honey-comb dwellings, which completely cover the
tq, e : *
inscriptions. The plain north of Heliopolis is strewed with rocks,
easily detected as having been formed by petrifaction, of fallen and
broken trees. It bears the euphonions name of the “ Petriticd
men y
of the
Io
wil
the
the
selu
rem
ace
Ho]
of
whic
whic
that
are t
phys
7
Moh
Ile i
by I
with
trecly
Khe
overy
prime
Pach:
ited a,
impo
We lI H
Tl
family
systen
the lk
Mott
fa gold-color and
perfectly like the
to the Temple of
enclosed in myrrh,
ped like an egg, as
- experiment 5 this
, body of the dead
the whole becomes
yrrh. It then pro-
jent On, otherwise
rtierst from Cairo,
» we found there no
Teliopolis, no phe
) there a sow mound
her these Acbris awe
ralls of the city. A
two of the mounds.
oglyphic inscription
vears before our eri,
scribes another one,
mmbellishment of the
‘the existing obelisk
buried to the depth
the plain of the Nile
fet in four thousand
monument. the bees
mmpletely cover the
s strewed with rocks,
faction, of fallen an
4 i¢ Da BD + Oy |
re of the “ Petritica
AMERICANS IN
EGYPT.
545
Forest.” This is all that remains of On, where Joseph found his
wife—of that Beth-shemesh against which Jeremiah pronounced
the curse—all that remains of that Temple of the Sun, which was
the chosen cemetery of the Arabian phoenix, and later was the
school where Solon, Eudoxis, and Plato studied.
On our return to Cairo we stopped at Mataria; here are the
remains of a garden, in which, according to Coptic tradition,
accepted by the Roman Church, was the home of the Virgin, the
Holy Child, and Joseph, in their flight from the dreadful decree
of Iferod. They showed us here, not only the very sycamore-tree
which afforacd shade to the Holy Family, but a natural spring in
which the linen of the Divine Infant was washed. We are told
that the Kheédive presented the tree to the Empress Eugénie. We
are thankful that she did not remove it, so as to deprive us of the
physical and moral virtue, if any, which its foliage iniparts.
This morning visits were exchanged between Mr. Seward and
Mohammed Tauphik, eldest son and heir-apparent of the Khédive.
lle is about twenty, handsome, intelligent, and carefully educated
by European masters. We learn that his sagacious iather, not-
withstanding religious prejudices, insists upon Tauphik’s minelir
re
freely with European society. Mr. Seward is also visited by the
Khédive’s ministers, some one among them dining at Kasr Mudjii
Chévif Pacha, president of the Council of State, and
Noubar
Pacha, Minister of Foreign Affairs, is an Armenian Christian, spir-
every day.
prime-minister, is a very able and sagacious statesman.
ited and well informed, but somewhat restless under the restraint
imposed on the Kheédive’s government by the Christian powers, 2s
well as by the Ottoman Porte.
The Americans in Egypt are a mixed though interesting
family. The IKhedive is reorganizing his army on the Western
system of evolutions and tactics. For this purpose he has taken
the loyal General Stone as chicf-of-staff, and the loyal General
Mott as aide-de-camp, and with these some cight or ten mulitary
All
While he expressed
men who distinguished themselves in the Confederate army.
of these Americans visited My, Seward to-day.
ride and satisfaction in finding his countrymen thus honorably
546 SGYPT AND PALESTINE,
trusted and employed in a foreign service, he nevertheless
remarked, with characteristic tenacity, that he disapproved and
lamented a proscriptive policy at home, which exiled even former
rebels to foreign lands; but it was due to the American people to
confess that, in no other civil war, had the victorious party prac.
tised so great magnanimity as the party of the Union has done.
May (Ath.—Although the citadel of Cairo has been 1endered
unreliable as a fortress, it very justly excites admiration. — Like
those of India which we saw, it is a combination of fortifications,
palaces, and mosques. It stands on a rocky bluff of the desert,
three hundred feet above the Nile, and, while it overlooks the
entire city, it commands a view not only of the Pyramids of Gizeh,
—
me on but also those of Lucena, and a view of the Nile, from ancient
oa ote Memphis, far down the Delta. A well which supplies water to the
er citadel is an object of much curiosity and interest. It was exva.
* " vated by Salah-ed-dyn (Saladin), otherwise known as Yussct-ebn-
: , Ayoub, and from him called Joseph’s well. It is two hundred and
: seventy feet deep, and consists of two stories or chambers. The
water is raised from the bottom one hundred and twenty fect into
23 the chamber, worked by men stationed at the bottom. Thence
it is brought to the top of the well by another mechanical process.
A. winding staircase leads from top to bottom. Popular supersti-
tion, seizing on the legendary history of the patriarch Joseph, long
4
regarded him, and not Saladin, as the Yussef who made the well;
and at last, by an exercise of still greater credulity, it has come to
he regarded, irrespective of topographical evidence to the contrary,
as the veritable “ pit” into which Jacob’s pious son was thrown by
’ his naughty brethren, in revenge for his having received a pretty
: coat.
; We sce also in the citadel the court in which the Mamelukes
aii were treacherously massacred by order of Mehemet Ali in Isil.
“ve j The magnificent palace of Saladin, its audience-chamber graced with
7 thirty-two majestic monolith columns, was injured thirty years
ago by an explosion which necessitated its removal. In its stead
was built the last clegant palace of Mehemet Ali, which is now
the
mor
most
rule
gran
cons}
const
colur
mosq
quisit
heme
touris
imme
The |
mans)
Tl
house
house
of go
carly
itself,
wn ne
Mono
not to
Const:
don,
peop]
in the
or hay
sight,
to exa
advant
are, dd
eivilizs
200log
what
he nevertheless
disapproved and
<iled even former
merican people to
rious party prac:
nion has done,
ius been rendered
.dmiration. Like
n of fortifications,
uff of the desert,
» it overlooks the
?yramids of Gizeh,
Nile, from ancient
pplies water fo the
rest. It was exca-
ywn as Yusset-ebn-
's two hundred and
yr chambers. The
md twenty fect into
» bottom. Thence
mechanical process.
Popular supersti-
riarch Joseph, long
tho made the well;
lity, it has come to
iee to the contrary,
son was thrown by
g received 1 pretty
ich the Mamelukes
hemet Ali in Isil.
shamber graced with
njured thirty years
ioval. In its stead
Ali, which is now
MOSQUE OF MEITEMET ALI.
4
the residence of the young prince Mohammed Tauphik. But a
more imposing modern structure, however, in the citadel, is the
mosque of Mehemect Ali, and the tomb of that great chief and
ruler. The mosque, which, by reason of its advantageous site, its
grand dimensions, and its lofty dome and minarets, is the most
conspicuous and admired object in Cairo, is of purely Saraceni«
construction. Within and without, including walls, pavements,
columns, and dome, the material 1s Oriental alabaster. The
mosques we saw in India, though many of them have a more ex-
quisite beauty, pretend to no such grandeur as this mosque of Me-
hemet Ali. An order from the Khédive opened it to us, not as
tourists, but as guests. The remains of Mehemet Ali rest in an
immense alabaster sarcophagus, always covered with rich tapestry.
The cover was removed, and disclosed an elaborateness of work-
manship and inscriptions worthy of the restorer of Egypt.
The Jews, in the time of the patriarchs, found Egypt a store-
house of wheat; the Greeks, at a later period, found it a store-
house of monuments and relics. With the loss of its ancient policy
of government, and with the exhaustion, if not extirpation, of the
early races, the country has, since that time, been unable to defend
itself, much less to preserve those invaluable treasures. The West-
vm nations have been violent and rapacious in carrying them away.
Monolith granite obelisks and menolith sarcophagi of porphyry,
not to speak of marble statuary, the spoils of Egypt, are found in
Constantinople, Rome, Naples, Berlin, Paris, Amsterdam, and Lon-
don, The ornaments of its queens, the domestie utensils of its
people, their provisions and medicines, and even its exhumed dead
in their grave-clothes and coffins, are exhibited in the same capitals,
orhawked as spectacles over the civilized world for “a shilling a
sight, children half price.” Those who have no better opportunity
to examine the antiquities of that wonderful country, may with
advantage study it in those stolen monuments and relics. They
are, however, inadequate to convey an exact idea of the ancient
civilization of Egypt. In regard to that study, they are what
zoological gardens are to the knowledge of foreign animal races, or
what exotic plants in a greenhouse are to tropical vegetation.
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
y
16
1A
1.25
-4503
23 WEST MAIN STREET
16) 872
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(7
hic
Photograp
Sciences
Corporation
’
48 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
Ismail Pacha has kept Mariette Bey well employed since 1863 in
the task of saving such of these invaluable relics as yet remain in
the country. The collection which has been made is not so vast
as the stores which are scattered in foreign countries, but is of
vastly greater worth than any one of the foreign museums. The
monuments, tablets, hieroglyphs, images, ornaments, pictures, and
relics, which it contains, are seen here in the very region where
they were first produced, and in just relation to the different re.
gions of the country, and of the different eras of its history.
May 12th—We must drop the antiquities of Egypt for a day or
two, and confine ourselves to modern times and the city of Cairo,
mL i
Hist \
ui, | |
A STREET IN CAIRO,
It isa Mohammedan creation, ard was founded about a. p. 970 by
Moez, an Arab caliph from Western Africa, who called it Zt Aahi-
reh, or “The Victorious.” Its first site was at Fostatt eight miles
hat
“pr
ther
He
beyc
cave
pietu
of t]
tradi
that
The (
oyed since 1863 in
9g as yet remain 1)
made is not so vast
countries, but is of
ign museums. The
ments, pictures, and
_ very region where
to the different re-
of its history.
yf Egypt for a day or
nd the city of Cairo.
ed about a. p. 970 by
ho called it Hl Mahi-
t Fostatt, eight miles
CITY OF CATRO. 549
up the river. The original site is now called Old Cairo. The gov-
ernment transferred its seat from Old Cairo to the present city in
the twelfth century. Our visit to the old city was full of interest.
There is the “ Ilouse of Light” (Xasr-ech-chama), which, like the
citadel at New Cairo, was at once a citadel and a palace of the first
Mussulman rulers. J*rom some unknown cause, this great Mussul-
man ruin has become the retreat and home of the Copts. Though
they have partially mixed their blood with their Nubian and Ara-
bian neighbors on either side, they are universally recognized as
the only true descendants of the ancient Egyptian race. They ac-
cepted Christianity in the first century, and, adopting the asceti-
cism which was affected by the disciples of our faith in that early
period, they incorporated a church with a powerful hierarchy and
monastic institutions, the models perhaps of those institutions that
have so long existed throughout Christendom. They established a
litany. Although now reduced in number to one hundred and
fifty thousand in Egypt, they still preserve their hierarchy, those
monastic institutions, and that litany. In the great theological
dispute which distracted Christendom from the fourth century to
the tenth, they rejected equally the supremacy of *the Patriarch at
Constantinople and that of the Bishop of Rome. In the main
they go with the Roman Church in requiring celibacy for the clergy,
while they adhere with the Greek Church to the abstruse meta-
physical doctrines that, after the incarnation of the Saviour, Iis
nature was one, and not a double nature, and that the Holy Ghost
“proceeds,” not “from the Father and the Son,” but from the Fa-
ther alone.
The Copts have at least two convents, perhaps more, in the old
“House of Light.” ‘We visited that of St. George; a part of it is,
beyond all doubt, much older than modern Cairo, This part is a
cave, in which there is a Christian church, which contains carvings,
pictures, and inscriptions, illustrating the Nativity and the sojourn
of the Holy Family in Egypt. The Copts universally hold to the
tradition that Joseph, Mary, and the child, dwelt'in this cave, and
that the church was built on the consecrated place to preserve it.
The cave, or, as it is here called, the grotto, is divided into three
9
v
whi
wh
whi
lake
fam
tom
luke
mai
mos
afte
are
tarb
am
(
othe
mucl
bank
THE TOMBS OF CALIPHS. 551
chambers, an outer, an interior, and a middle one. In the first is a
Coptic baptismal font; in the second, within a niche, a stone bear-
ing the impress of the Saviour’s foot ; in the third, a similar track.
The so-called Tombs of the Caliphs constitute a feature of Cairo
which no traveller neglects. They are situated just outside of the
Bab-el-Nini (Gate of Victory). They are the tombs, however, not
of the Mohammedan conquerors, but of their Mameluke successors.
These structures, like the imambarras of the Moguls, are mosques.
They are fine specimens of the Saracenic style, but have no pre-
tension to grandeur. Surrounded by the sands of the Desert, they
are falling to decay and dilapidation. Many of them contain fine
Arabesque wood-carvings. <A visit to the sepulchres of the count-
less sovereigns of Fgypt may well make one doubt whether the
ambition to be rerembered after death is even wise. At least it is
possible to be remembered too long. Who cares now for Cheops,
even if his ashes still remain secure within his majestic tomb ¢
Who is there living now to honor or delight in the memory ot
Sesostris or Rameses? Who can envy the Mameluke Sultans,
whose tombs are resolving themselves into the sands of the desert,
while their hated race has been extirpated from the country over
which they tyrannized ?
It was. a relief, after an inspection of the tombs of the Mame-
Iukes, to visit the modern cemeteries of Cairo. The ruling
family, and perhaps others, occasionally build mosques over their
tombs, but smaller and less imposing even than those of the Mame-
lukes. The Khédive has erected a mosque which covers the re-
mains of Said Pacha and other members of his family.. Here, as in
most of the monumental mosques, prayers are hourly chanted, year
after year, by lay readers employed for that purpose. The tombs
are invariably of white marble, gaudily painted in oil. A carved
tarboosh at the head of the monument indicates that the sleeper is
aman; a veil, that it is a woman.
Cairo has three hundred mosques. This is only saying in an-
other way that Cairo is one of the most beautiful of all cities, inso-
much as the gentle slope of its site, from the desert to the river-
bank, allows every imposing structure its full effect; and, of all
B
a
s
t
‘
|
g
552 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
architectural forms, the mosque, with its always graceful domes and
slender minarets, is the most pleasing. The Mosque of Amrou,
lieutenant of the Caliph Omar, in the old city, built in 642, is not
only the oldest mosque of Cairo, but the oldest in the world. Ina
state of dilapidation, enough only of the structure remains to give
an idea of its original grandeur and simplicity. The columns of
MOSQUE AND HOUSES IN CAIRO.
granite and porphyry, which it borrowed from the temples of a
more ancient worship at Memphis, have disappeared, and the mar-
ble tablets, on which the full text of the Koran was written, have
gone with them.
Next after the Mosque of Mehemet Ali, already described, the
most important is that of Ahmed-ebn-Souloun, built in 877, in the
char
cr f
mus
graceful domes and
Mosque of Amrou,
‘puilt in 642, is not
in the world. Ina
ure remains to give
+, The columns of
attorney) gia
g Ry Z
A Pope wild
iW) EQTIIcITURULC Sc hy
Pres .
O)
from the temples of
ppeared, and the mat
oran was written, have
, already described, the
bun, built in 877, in the
THE MOSQUES OF CAIRO.
igs
000
earliest Saracenic style. It is two hundred feet by one hundred.
Another very grand mosque of Azhar, though built nine hundred
year's ago, was repaired in 1672, and is in admirable preservation.
Its principal use, however, is not that of religious worship. It is
the most popular university in Egypt. The scientific course pur-
sued here embraces the Koran, versification, grammar, civil law,
commercial law, and ecclesiastical law. Two thousand students, of
different ages and sizes, sit on the floor in circles, whose circum-
ference is as regular as if they had been described by the com-
pass. They sit cross-legged, facing inward, while the professors
stand at convenient distances so as to hear and instruct several
circles. Each student has a book before him, and commits its text
to memory by rehearsal, constantly swinging backward end for-
ward during the exercise, not only the students in one circle, but
all the students in all the circles rehearsing in chorus. We inquired
in which of the schools of philosophy of ancient Egypt this form of
instruction was instituted, but received no satisfactory answer. We
think it must have originated at the Tower of Babel!
Mosques in Mohammedan cities, like temples in pagan coun-
tries and churches in a Christian land, are so much alike, that wan-
dering through them becomes monotonous. We finished our tour
with a visit to a mosque of dancing dervishes. The mosque isa
rude, unfurnished structure, containing one square room for men,
with a circular gallery for women. It is open to spectators, though
few were present on this occasion. The brethren came into the
chamber and took seats on the floor within the railing. They wore
auniform habit, consisting of brown serge, extending from neck to
fect, with full skirt, and fastened with a girdle, and a round, high
hat made of gray felt. It was easy to see that they arrayed them-
selves according to fixed order. The sheik entered and took his
seat on the floor, directly opposite to the lay members. His cos-
tume differed from theirs only in being of a purple color. When
he had taken his seat, a brother rose, walked slowly around the
chamber, and made a salutation to the superior. Each other broth-
cr followed performing the same ceremony. A strain of sclemn
music, on the flute, was heard from an upper recess, whereupon
554 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
the brothers rose, one after another, and began a whirling motion,
at first slow, but gradually increasing in rapidity, the right arm
stretched upward and ‘he left correspondingly depressed, as a bal.
nat a
A!
fl mi tl
| Ny
: wilh
I
INTERIOR OF A MOSQUE, CAIRO,
ance. Their full, heavy skirts had weights at the bottom which
held them down while they expanded like round sails with the
movement. ‘This dizzy exercise continued until the entire body of
the brotherhood were spinning around like so many tops, ther
dresses spreading out over their feet. The performance had lasted,
as we thought, about an hour, when the music suddenly ceased, as
if the musicians instead of the dancers had given out, and, on the
instant of the music ceasing, they came to a rest. Then ther
walked in solemn procession around the room, each making 4
a whirling motion,
dity, the right arm
depressed, a8 a ba.
at the bottom which
b yound sails with the §
ntil the entire body of
e so many tops, ther
performance had lasted,
sic suddenly ceased, 88
given out, and, on the
to a rest. Then they
yoom, each making &
GHEZIREIN. 555
sulam to the superior. All the dervishes were men of full age,
save one, a boy of twelve, who for some reason seemed to be held
in great respect as a leader. Ie whirled with greater gravity, if
possible, than his companions. We supposed him to be designated
by birth or some other cause for preferment. The dervishes
withdrew from the mosque without any manifestations of sancti-
mony, and, when we met them after the exerciser, they seemed to
us as cheerful and business-like as mechanics and artisans. They
made no show of mendicity. It would be a curious study to trace
to their source, in a common viiuciple of human nature, the wor-
ship of the Shakers in our own country and that of the dancing
dervishes of the East.
Having been received by the Khédive and his family, and domi-
ciled in oue of the state palaces, it would have seemed to us a mani-
festation of unbecoming curiosity to visit the other viceroyal
residences. But the palaces of princes are objects of pride to them,
as villas, mansions, and cottages, are to humbler proprietors. The
Khédive intimated to us that the ladies ot his family would have
notice of our coming, and so our visits to the other palaces would
not take them by surprise. Most of these palaces are simpler and
plainer, and more after the European style, than we had supposed.
Shobia is the most pleasant one. It is a palace built and arranged
ina quadrangular form, exclusively for social entertainments, and
encloses a lake of two or three acres, which is filled with curious
fishes, and rare aquatic birds. All its halls, corridors, reception-
rooms, banqueting-halls, billiard-rooms, and baths, connect with
eich other. The Khédive has been especially lavish in enlarging
and embellishing Ghezireh, which is the most favored home of the
princesses, although they always attend him wherever he resides or
sojourns. It was manifest, on arriving there, that the Khédive’s
instruction for an admission had not yet reached the palace. The
Nubian eunuchs drew swords upon us. We sauntered in the gar-
dens while waiting for the necessary explanations to be made.
These gardens are laid out on the European plan, and exhibit a
blaze of scarlet geraniums, and yellow flowering plants, without a
trace of white, blue, or purple. Chinese gardening has been adopted
—_
nuttin i de a ot
2 ala ie a
~
556 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
to produce a rocky mound on an island, in a pretty artificial lake,
and in the mound is a picturesque labyrinthian grotto, divided into
Moorish chambers, retreshment-rooms, drawing-rooms, and _ pavil-
ions; while light is flashed upon you at every turn by innumerable
stalactites, mirrors, fountains, and cascades. Coming upon earth
again, from this fairy subterranean maze, we wandered through,
the extensive menagerie, meeting, on the way, the princess-wite,
whom the ladies had seen at Kasr Ali. She was enjoying a sunset |
promenade, attended by a long train of ladies, slave-girls, and (
inevitable ennuchs. The princess was arrayed in a dress of orange.
and-white shot silk, which completely enveloped her tall, gracefil ‘
figure, and covered the lower part of her face. Her eyes were par- ;
tially veiled with the customary, very becoming, single fold of white 7
illusion, She interposed her little green parasol between her eyes
and our party as dexterously as a Broadway coquette. The women ‘
of the seraglio were looking down upon us through latticed win-
dows, when the captain of the eunuch-guard opened the doors, with t
an apology for the previous delay, and proceeded to execute his
instructions by showing us a long range of ‘uxurious apartments.
Gilded ceilings, marble floors, Persian carpets, damask divans, and
French mirrors, alone justify the preference of the inmates for
Ghezireh. <A cultivated Western taste would have introduced
here books, paintings, statuary, and a thousand works of art and
beauty, but we found nothing of the sort, except onc table of Flor.
entine mosaic, which was presented to the Khédive by Victor
Emmanuel.
Is this a place and time to renew our speculations concerning
the harem «s a domestic institution? The Mohammedan provision
for woman is a prison in which her sufferings from jealousy are
consoled by the indulgence of her vanity. She is allowed the so-
ciety of her own sex with far less restraint than is ordinarily sup-
posed, and she displays before her visiting friends with pride the
wealth and ornaments which lighten her chains. She gocs abroad
in Cairo, but always in her carriage, and looks upon the busy worl!
in the strocts with veiled eyes and under surveillance. She attents
her lord in his state progresses from palace to palace in Egypt.
pretty artificial lake,
. grotto, divided into
ng-rooms, and pavil-
turn by innumerable
Coming upon earth
e wandered through:
ny, the princess-wile,
was enjoying a@ sunset
dies, slave-girls, and
1 in a dress of orange-
ped her tall, graceful
_ Her eyes were pur-
g, single fold of white
‘asol between her eyes
oquette. The women
through latticed win-
ypened the doors, with
ceeded to execute his
Tuxurious apartments.
s, damask divans, and
e of the inmates for
ould have introduced
‘and works of art and
cept onc table of Flor-
Khédive by Victor
eculations concerning
{ohammedan provision
ings from jealousy ae
She is allowed the sv-
than is ordinarily sup-
friends with pride the
ins. She gocs abroad
ks upon the busy world
veillance. She attents
ce to palace in Egypt
CUARACTERISTICS OF CAIRO. 557
from Cairo to Alexandria, and from Alexandria to Stamboul. But
she goes no farther, and never alone. She never reads, and, so far
as possible, is required never to think, The Mohammedan law de-
clares that the supreme object of her existence is to be married,
and to have children for the benefit of the state; to be unmar-
ried, even to be widowed, is a reproach, and to die in cither of
those conditions is to forfeit happiness in a future state. It is
true, indeed, that, though she fulfils her appointed duties and
destiny in obedience to the law as well as she may, she has not’
even in that case the promise of association with the faithful in
paradise. For them howris are appointed, an especial creation,
more beautiful, more fascinating than woman. Tor the faithful
Mohammedan wife there is reserved, however, in paradise, a condi-
tion which, while it is a seclusion from the other sex, is gay, glo-
rious, and perfectly happy.
Thi Cairo of to-day is not entirely the same Cairo which “ Ej-
then” and the “TIowadji” have so well described. This active,
restless, innovating Khédive, Ismail Pacha, lays out and paves broad
and direct avenues, plants spacious parks and gardens, and builds
or buys European hotels, banking-houses, warchouses, and what not,
to such an extent that a sojourner here, who confines himself with-
in the improved district, might fancy himself in Vienna or Milan.
Nevertheless, the Grand Cairo of history end of romance, the Cairo
of the “Arabian Nights,” of Saladin, and the Mamelulgs, remains a
great city, a maze of majestic mosques, latticed palaces, and brilliant
bazaars, variously built of stone, unburnt brick, and of wood, all
streaked fantastically with red and yellow paint, and quaintly orna-
mented in Moorish arabesque. The narrow streets, sometimes too
narrow for any travelling beast but the donkey, often end in a cud-
de-sac, while other streets, winding, turning, and twisting, lose them-
selves in close, dark, mysterious courts, or come out upon acacia
avenues leading to steaming baths and sparkling fountains. The
people of all sorts, conditions, occupations, and races, known among
men, seem contented with themselves, and equally gentle toward all
comers. The Italian, the French, the English, the American, and
the German, jostle alike the children of Ishmacl and the children
_——
tnt oii ee ee
558 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
of Israel, the Greek, the Copt, the Berber, the Abyssiaian, the
Nubian, and the Soumalan.
The merchandise carried on here is as various a3 the races, sup-
plying equally all the luxuries of courts and the lowest wants of
the nomadic tribes of the Arabian and Libyan Deserts, not te
speak of the supply of the traveller with antiques and articles of
vertu. We noticed the sign of an ingenuous as well as ingenious
Italian that he fabricates and sells “ Egyptian relics.”
bid Ea any
Re Map i
ret eam //j///8
wna ta,
ij Mag
QOAIRO, FROM THE EAST,
the Abyssinian, thie
ys as the races, sup-
the lowest wants of
yan Deserts, not to
ques and articles of
as well as ingenious
relics.”
CHAPTER IV.
UP THE NILE.
Embarkation at Ghizeh.—The Pyramids of Saccara.—The Two Deserts.—Siout.—The
American Vice-Consul.—Sultan Pacha.—Character of the Nile—Slave Boats —Arab
Villagers.—The Birds of the Nile—The Population on the Banks.—Domestic Ani-
mals.—Personal Arrangements.—A Tippling Monkey.
Rhodah, on the Nile, May 12th.—We shall never cease to felici-
tate ourselves that we had sufficient resolution to go to the Great
Wall of China, though it was November; and through India,
though so late as March. We are not particularly satistied with
ourselves for having yiclded to remonstrance, and given up our
projected visit to the Euphrates. An excursion on the Nile in
May is equally contraband. Though the Khédive has provided for
it like a prince, yet, like a judicious merchant, he warns us that he
does not insure our lives.
We took our seats in a special railway-train at Ghizeh, on the
west bank of the Nile, opposite Cairo, at one this afternoon ; and
now, after a journey of two hundred and ninety’miles, we are em-
barked in the steam-yacht Crocedile. Our journey at the very be-
ginning afforded us one of the most beautiful views which the val-
ley of the Nile presents. On our right, the Libyan Desert, with
its eternal sentinels, the Pyramids. The river winds almost at
right angles toward the east, and is covered with lateen-sail-boats
treighted with the grains and fruits of Southern Africa. Before us
the undulating bank beneath the cliffs of the Arabian Desert
560 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
stretches out widely, and displays endless groves of mimosa-trecs
and date-palms. Below these, and on our left, is the great city of
Cairo, crowning the acclivity from the water’s edge to its towering
citadel. The rainless clouds are pierced by the slender, gleaming
minarets of the great historical mosque, whose walls are lost in the
distance.
We had not lost sight of Cheops and Cephren, when we came
directly under the shadow of the Pyramids of Saccara, like the
former sepulchral monuments of departed kings, but of inferior
magnitude. We passed, as we weie assured, over the site of an-
cient Memphis, without sceing one stone resting on another there,
More of this, however, when we shall come down the Nile.
Rbodah has three distinctions: it is the southern terminus of
the great Railroad of the Nile, which begins at Alexandria 3 it has
a palace of the Khédive; and extensive sugar-manufactories, which
are his private property. The people received us kindly here, and
conducted us to the yacht, with the courtesies of a pleasant sere.
nade, torch-lights and bonfires.
Stout, May 138th.—The 1nountains of the two deserts, between
which the Nile makes its way, are much nearer than we had sup.
posed. Alternately the Arabian Desert and the Libyan one crowis
the river, and gives it a serpentine direction. These promontories
often rise abruptly to the height of a thousand feet, leaving scarcely
a ribbon-width of green plain at their feet. We passed such a
one yesterday, which was terraced from the river’s surface far up
toward its summit with galleries of vaulted tombs excavated in the
rock, and long since rifled of their deposits. Many of these tombs
have now living Arab tenants.
This afternoon we planted our mooring-stake for the first time,
in the high shelving bank of the river near this town, the name of
which we write from a French map Siout, but which English
travellers call Assiout. Now the flourishing capital of Upper
Egypt, it is in history Lycoptera, the “Town of the Wolf,” or, as
the ancient Egyptians named their towns trom their temples, the
“ Town of the Temple of the Wolf.” Whatever else its present in-
ves of mimosa-trecs
is the great city of
edge to its towering
ne slender, gleaming
walls are lost in the
hren, when we came
of Saccara, like the
ings, but of inferior
over the site of an-
ing on another there.
ywn the Nile.
southern terminus of
at Alexandria 3 it has
-manufactories, whicli
d us kindly here, and
s of a pleasant sere-
two deserts, between
rer than we had sup-
he Libyan one crowds
These promontories
1 feet, leaving scarcely
We passed such a
river’s surface far up
bmbs excavated in the
Many of these tombs
take for the first time,
his town, the name ci
, but which English
ing capital of Upper
in of the Wolf,” or, as
om their temples, the
ver else its present in-
SIOUT. d61
habitants may do now, they do not worship the most ferocious «4
cowardly of wild beasts. Siout is the terminus of a caravan-trade
which penetrates through the Libyan Desert to the great Oasis.
The population is thirty thousand. One-third are Copts. The
streets aie narrow, the thronged bazaars filled with cheap articles
of trade, the buildings either of stone or adobe. One or two
mosques redeein the city from a general aspect of vulgarity and
meanness. The town is built on the edge of the Libya» Desert.
The plain, somewhat more than a mile wide between it «nd the
river, is annually inundated, but the traveller passes safely over it
on a broad embankment, which must have been built as long ago
as when the dwellers of the place confessed the wolf for their god.
Our chief interest at Siout consists in the insight it gives of the
ancient Egyptian form of burial. The abrupt rocky desert face,
which looks down over the place, is pierced with sepulchral caves.
These caves are of vast extent and are divided into numerous cham-
bers; all are dark, but, with the aid of torch-light, we found them
hewn and chiselled with elaborate architectural shapes, with por-
tals, columns, roof, and architraves. While we were pushing our
exploration, Freeman fell from the floor on which we stood, into
another chamber four or five feet below. He was unhurt, but
after it we concluded to leave the million bats and owls within to
the quiet enjoyment of their at least possessory right.
The Governor of Upper Egypt, Sultan Pacha, has a palace here,
and with his staff has kindly accompanied us in our excursicn.
The United States vice-consul here is a native, though an
Armenian Christian. We has entertained us at his house, and
brought around us his sons and many of his neighbors. Being a
man of wealth, he prides himself on his dwelling, which he fondly
thinks he has built on European plans. It is at least an improve-
ment on the Egyptian style. We entered it from the street, by
crossing a barrier two feet high at the door, and descending without
steps to what seemed a basement, but proved to be a broad vesti-
bule, paved with solid stone, and covered with sand three inches
deep. We made our way through a dark gallery, without pave-
ment or floor, to the lofty consular saloon, with a divan stretching
562 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
across one end, a row of attendants on either side, and a table in
the centre. The room has no external ventilation of door or win-
dow, and is lighted day and night by lamps burning American
petroleum. The reception was extremely kind, but, for want of
acquaintance with Western manners, was éxcessively ceremonions
and tedious. Coffee, champagne, sherbets, bonbons, and chibouques,
were served, and many African curiosities presented to us. The
consul insisted that we should stop on our return, and cnjoy an
entertainment of native music and dancing. We returned to our
yacht, where Mr. Seward entertained ‘Sultan Pacha and the vice.
consul at dinner. The governor, a dignified and courteous man,
was only once beyond the borders of Egypt; this was when he
went on a pilgrimage to Mecca. The vice-consul has never been
beyond the summit of the deserts between which he was born,
Both expressed great wonder at Mr. Seward making such long
travels, and plied him with questions concerning the United States,
of which they have only the one idea, that it is a land of universal
freedom and unmixed happiness. The governor is making an oflh-
cial voyage, through Upper Egypt, in his own steam-yacht. Wee shall
see more of him. We sleep to-night, as last night, under strains of
music, and with an illumination blazing on the shore.
On the Crocodile, May 14th.—So far as circumstances and in-
cidents are concerned, tle experience of one day on the Nile is
that of every day; even the scenery, though unique and pictu-
resque, is monotonous. The river swells in the middle of June, and
attains its greatest height about the first of October, after which it
falls continually lower until the next annual flood. It is now near
its lowest stage. The soil of the valley is not different from that
of the Mississippi. The river is of very unequal width; in some
places ten rods wide, at others it spreads into shallow lakes, which
leave scarcely any tillable land on either bunk. Like the great
American river, it is always changing its channel, wearing wway 4
high and fertile bank on one side, and transferring the soil to posi:
tions lower down and on the opposite side. At every point of the
voyage, the entire width of the valley is seen. Its average is sis
side, and a table in
tion of door or win-
3 burning American
nd, but, for want of
essively ceremonious
oons, and chibouques,
‘esented to us. The
eturn, and enjoy an
We returned to our
Pacha and the vice-
and courteous man,
;3 this was when he
onsul has never been
which he was born,
‘d making such long
ng the United States,
is a land of universal
nor is making an off-
team-yacht. We shall
hight, under strains ot
e shore.
ircumstances and in-
e day on the Nile i:
eh unique and pictu-
ie middle of June, and
Yetober, after which it
flood. It is now near
ot different from that
equal width 5 in some
hb shallow lakes, which
ank, Like the great
nnel, wearing away |
rring the soil to posi-
At every point of the
n. Its average is sis
THE CANALS OF EGYPT. 563
miles. Irrigation fertilizes every acre; the water, at whatever
stage, is raised for that purpose by all the contrivances known
to Prof. Ewbank, from the primitive well-sweep and bucket, and
the endless chain and pitcher worked by mules and oxen, to the
steam-engine, which is employed on the great sugar-plantations.
So many channels are made for distributing water over the sur-
face, that Egypt truly boasts of more miles of canal than Java, China,
India, Holland, or the United States, The mountains on either side
are of solid rock, varying from sandstone to limestone and granite.
Huge bowlders of all these rocks are seen on either declivity, or
resting in the valley ; but the river-bed itself is free from stone.
Ve are now five hundred miles from its mouths, and yet, through-
out all that distance, there is not a rock which hinders navigation.
Sand-bars formed by shitting currents render navigation, at low
water, impossible for vessels drawing more than three feet, and
even those venture to move only by daylight. The downward cur-
rent is everywhere strong. Our yacht makes only five miles an
hour against it, although our motor is an engine of forty horse-
power. The only relief we have from the intense heat comes
with frequent changes of the wind from south to north. At every
turn we see, on the one bank or on the other, clumps of dwarf
cypress, and of palmetto, or of date-palms. With these exceptions,
there is nothing of forest, and, of course, little of shade. We can
well imagine that tourists, more fortunate in their choice of season,
sailing on a full river, level with its banks, find the country
exceedingly beautiful, the broad plains being then covered with
wheat, Indian-corn, rice, lentils, sunflowers, cotton, sugar, and
tobaceo—a magnificent display of verdure under the frowns of two
gigantic deserts. Such enjoyment, however, is not for us. The
cultivated banks are higher than the chimneys of our steamboat;
we catch only an occasional glimpse of the fields, now in their
brownest and most exhausted condition. No rain has fallen for
a year. Not a cloud passes, between the sun and the soil, by
day or by night. The earth is parched and cracked; the winds,
which in other climates amuse themselves by driving storms of rain
and snow over the earth, here make their wild sport only with the
a &
et
564 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
black dust of the valley and the yellow sands of the desert. For all
this, the voyage is, none the less, one of deep interest. The valley,
more than a thousand miles long, is densely inhabited. Like the
great river of China, the Nile is animated by travel and traffic,
Three classes of boats are employed: the steamer, of course smail,
and only recently introduced, is, as yet, monopolized by the Goy-
ernment; second, the dahabéch, a boat using the lateen-sail, grace-
fully constructed and gayly painted ; third, the vastly more numer.
ous and effective class of small boats, also using the lateen-sails,
and managed by the natives. These bring down to Cairo the
surplus produce of Upper Egypt, and carry back merchandise,
chiefly of the cheapest and coarsest clothing, and indispensable
utensils and articles of furniture. Occasionally, too, one of these
boats is seen, in spite of all foreign protests, and of the Khédive’s
interdiction, bearing a group of jet-black men, women, and chil-
dren, whom some native African chief, beyond the Egyptian bor.
der, has sold as prisoners of war, or exchanged for the trinkets so
highly valued in savage life. They do not seem unhappy. Moham-
medan slavery, in fact, wears rather the character of domestic ser.
vice than of exhausting labor and hard bondage.
The people cluster in towns on the banks, in small, low, oven-
shaped dwellings of sunburnt brick, without windows. A house
of two stories indicates the residence of a successful merchant or
speculator. It is sure to be ornamented with Venctian blinds,
painted brown. Its double-latticed, narrow windows are designed
to indicate that its proprietor is a Mohammedan, blessed with a
harem. The Mohammedan church maintains, through all ad.
ministrations, its rich foundations of mortmain. The mosque,
therefore, dominates everywhere. Aquatic birds swarm on the
beach and the sand-bars—cranes, ducks, geese, bright flamingoes,
and stately vultures. Not the splashing of our propeller, nor even
the shrill steam-whistle, startles one of these birds. The crocodile
was a native of the Nile, and in the ancient mythology a god. All
books of travel written twenty or thirty years ago are filled with
accounts of that hideous monster. Champollion relates that he
saw fourteen at one time. It has entirely disappeared since the in-
the desert. Tor all
terest. The valley,
nhabited. Like the
y travel and. trafiic.
er, of course small,
ypolized by the Gov-
he lateen-sail, grace-
. vastly more numer-
sing the lateen-sails,
down to Cairo the
- back merchandise,
y, and indispensable
lly, too, one of these
ind of the Khédive’s
en, women, and chil-
id the Egyptian bor-
.d for the trinkets so
nunhappy. Moham-
acter of domestic ser:
ee,
" in small, low, oven-
windows. <A house
ecessful merchant or
vith Venetian blinds,
vindows are designed
nedan, blessed with a
ins, through all ad:
main, The mosque,
birds swarm on the
se, bright flamingoes,
mr propeller, nor even
pirds. The crocodile
nythology a god. All
rs ago are filled with
liion relates that he
appeared since the in-
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE.
565
troduction of the steamboat, and the traveller who should speak of
seeing a crocodile below the cataracts would be thought as extrava-
gant as Sinbad.
The inhabitants are nearly all fellahs. A large portion of them
are of Arabian descent, often intermixed with the more swarthy
Abyssinian and black Nubian. They are strong, slender, and pa-
tient. A very small class, consisting of official persons, merchants,
or “middle-men,” wear a white Moorish turban or red tarboosh,
and dress quite tastefully in black-cloth coats and white panta-
loons, imported by wholesale from England. But the common
people uniformly wear the heavy turban and blue-cotton blouse,
with bare feet and legs. No one of any class, however, neglects
to carry a camel’s-wool cloak, butternut colored, for his bed at
night. The children, as in other tropical countries, wear nothing.
Ophthalmia is universally prevalent. Women, either Mohammedans
or Copts, are never seen with men in either town, country, or vil-
lage. They are seen only occasionally, and then in small groups,
but, on being approached, they timidly hide themselves in their
wide blue mantles, and retire to the road-side or into some dark
corner. It is painful to notice how much toil and time are ex-
pended for domestic wants; but for the people it seems only a pleas-
ant exercise. The Nile is the one indispensable supply of the com-
fort of life. Men are seen everywhere driving their small herds into
the river for drinking and bathing, and, on their return, bringing
home a domestic supply of the water in skin-bottles. At sunset
and sunrise women are seen coming in long, dark processions vom
distant towns, by winding paths, to the water-side, and, as in
patriarchal times, bearing the family supply in large earthen urns
poised gracefully on their heads.
There is no lack of domestic animals among this people. The
horse is small, but strong and well shaped. The ugly water-ox is
the beast of the plough; the donkey is the common carrier of the
country; while the camel not only shares that labor with him, but
also labors in the field. There are immense flocks of sheep and
goats, the latter all black. It is difficult to decide which party
manifests the greater affection, the fellah for his mute beast, or
37
566 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
the donkey for his kind and gentile master. They are insepara-
ble. The Arab is violent in altercation with his fellow-man, and
often deals a passionate blow, but ne never strikes or reproaches
A WOMAN ON THE NILE,
his beast. The people, isolated from all other races, show a great
fondness for birds. We have heard the report of neither rifle nor
fowling-piece, and every house in every town has a fanciful dove-
cote with alluring twigs at its windows. Although the Arabs have
no prejudice against animal food, the domestic pigeon is held as su-
ered here as vobin red-breast is in Massachusetts. Pigeons have
multiplied so much that political economists compute their consump:
tion of the products of the valley at one-twentieth part. When we
reason with a native on the subject of this extravagance, } e replies
that the bird compensates for it by supplying guano for the pro:
‘duction of water-melons.
They are insepara-
his fellow-man, and
rikes or reproaches
er races, show a great
prt of neither rifle nor
n has a fanciful dove:
though the Arabs have
ic pigeon is held as si
rusetts. Pigeons have
ompute their consump:
atieth part. When we
xtravagance, |e replies
ng guano for the pro-
OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.
567
A word now of our personal experience in the voyage. The
weather is intensely hot, and of course grows hotter as we go south.
Our party, including Betts Bey, consists of four and our three ser-
vants. Each passenger has a large state-room opening into a
comfortable after-cabin. The forward-cabin was arranged as a
dining-room, but Mr. Seward overrules the arrangement, and causes
the table to be spread always under an awning on the after-deck,
and he persists also in using the same airy apartment for his own
sleeping-room. It is impossible for us to be on shore in the day-
time, on account of the insufferable heat. We make our calcula-
tions, therefore, to move up the river in the middle of the day, rest-
ing, sleeping, trying to keep cool, and writing our notes. We go
ashore at as early an hour as possible before sunrise, and at as early
an hour as possible after sunset. At every landing-place the au-
thorities, having been apprised of our coming, are found awaiting
us with the chairs, horses, camels, mules, and donkeys, needed.
Whether we dine on board or in a ruined temple on the shore,
the servants who attend us spread the table with the same abun-
dant and delicate supplies as at Cairo. Our captain and crew
belong to the naval service, and are skilful and polite. The cap-
tain never fails personally to provide our Mocha coffee, flavored
with attar of roses, as in the Turkish harem. Chibouques, exqui-
sitely wrought and loaded with gems, are served at every meal by
a personage whose sole duty in this life is to keep them safe and
sweet. Instead of iced water, we have water cooled in porous
earthen jars, which are hung over the stern of the boat. The wine
is cooled by laying the bottles well corked in the troughs of the
boat, and pouring a stream of river-water over them. <A small
Abyssinian monkey affords us infinite amusement by stealing these
bottles, extracting the corks, pouring the wine into the gutter, and
drinking it thence until he attains the height of human intoxica-
tion. We attempted to correct this habit by chastising him, but he
dropped from our hands into the river, and instantly disappeared.
After searching river and bank three hours for him, we gave him
up for lost, when, to our surprise, he appeared squatted on the seat
of the life-boat which was swinging at the stern.
CPAPTER V.
FROM ABYDOS TO THEBES,
age? The Ruins of Abydos.—The Sheik of Bellianeh.—A Misunderstanding.—A Dinner in the
sa Ruins.—A Night in the Temple.— Exploring the Ruins.—By whom were they bnilt?
—Germs of Religious Ideas—The Temple of Dendera.—Mr. Seward’s Birthday,
Abydos, May 15th.—Though we were unfortunate in reaching
ts Bellianeh at a late hour last evening, we found sedan-chairs, fellalis,
donkeys, and camels, awaiting us on the river-bank. The sheik
of the district, and the United States vice-consul, a Copt, inet us,
and proceeded with us immediately to the ruius, where we now
write.
These ruins stand on the verge ot the Libyan Desert, and over.
look the level plain cf the Nile, here seven miles wide. Mr. Sew.
ard came in a cha.x, the ladies on donkeys, the official persons on
horseback, the servants, the beds, and tlie provisions for the night,
on camels. It happened unavoidably that the procession broke
into groups, which left some of its members without guides whom
they could recognize. Night came on before we crossed the plain.
We arrived at an Arab village, passing through very narrow and
crooked streets, and under low Moorish arches. There we alighted
and climbed some stone steps, by the light of torches held out
sig ‘i for our guidance. We entered a court, or chamber, which opeas
to the sky. How could we doubt that we were at least in the
vestibule of the Temple of Memnon? It was a surprise to have
the room quickly though feebly lighted up, and to find the floor
A) ||| id i) THN 1
AACA
i aa SAT
Y dee Zz =f
8,
.rstanding.—A Dinner in the
—By whom were they built?
_Mr, Seward’s Birthday.
fortunate in reaching
d sedan-chairs, fellahs,
ver-bank. The sheik
onsul, a Copt, met us,
ruins, where we now
OUR CARAVAN.
byan Desert, and over:
niles wide. Mr. Sew-
the official persons on
rovisions for the night,
the procession broke
, without guides whom
e we crossed the plain.
ough very narrow and
les. There we alighted
t of torches held out
chamber, which opeas
were at least in the
yas a surprise to have
, and to find the floor
570 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
covered with Persian carpets, on which divans were placed, and to
have Arab servants come in loaded with water-melons, rose-water,
coffee, and chibouques. Impatient to bivouac, we asked for the
rest of the party, but it did not come up. We now noticed that no
I our own furniture or baggage had come in. Was this the
Temple of Memnon? If not, Why und by whom were we received
here with so much courtesy? If it was that temple, it was a very
small one for so great a god, besides being quite modern in archi-
tecture, and built of adobe. We demanded an explanation, and
received it—in Arabic. We afterward learned that the Sheik of
Bellianeh had opened his castle for our reception and entertain-
ment during the night. This, although an excellent hospitality,
was not the feast to which we had bidden ourselves. That feast
was to be served in the Temple of Memnon, in the excavated city
of Abydos. It was not without much and earnest expostulation,
nor without accidents of overturned chairs, and falls from the
backs of the donkeys, that we reached the temple, two miles farther
onward, and found the residue of the party there awaiting our
arrival with much anxiety. So far as ancient temples are con-
cerned, we had hitherto seen at Memphis only the place where
they are supposed to have stood—at Heliopolis, an obelisk which
graced the porch of the Temple of the Sun, and, at Ghizeh, a sub-
terranean temple. So we were quite unprepared for the vast, im-
posing, and perfect structure that now towered before us. We
passed through the propyleum—a majestic gate-way flanked by
lofty edifices on either side—into a vestibule, more spacious than
any cathedral or church in the United States. Beyond this vesti-
bule, we entered a court enclosed by grand open corridors, of which
only the basement, a double colonnade, and the architraves, remain,
the solid roof having entirely fallen in, the massive slabs remaining,
with the exception of here and there one long since removed.
This court is the inner vestibule of the temple. It was too dark to
see more. Dinner had been laid in a long, dark chamber, which
might be the nave of the temple, and our mattresses had been
spread in high-vaulted chambers at the side. Were not these mag-
nificent accommodations for travellers? Perhaps our banqueting:
> Ec alll © i> SE co Sc oe
=
, were placed, and to
r-melons, rose-water,
e, we asked for the
now noticed that no
1c in. Was this the
om were we received
temple, it was a very
nite modern in archi-
an explanation, and
2d that the Sheik of
ption and entertain-
excellent hospitality,
yurselves. That feast
in the excavated city
earnest expostulation,
, and falls from the
ple, two miles farther
y there awaiting our
ent temples are con-
only the place where
olis, an obelisk which
pnd, at Ghizeh, a sub-
pared for the vast, im-
ered before us. We
gate-way flanked by
e, more spacious than
s. Beyond this vesti-
en corridors, of which
e architraves, remain,
ssive slabs remaining,
long since removed.
It was too dark to
dark chamber, which
mattresses had been
Were not these mag-
rhaps our banqueting:
RUINS OF ABYDOS, 571
hall was the nuptial chamber of Isis and Osiris, perhaps it was the
mausoleum of Memnon. Perhaps our sleeping-rooms were the
sacristies of the priests who assisted at one or both of those ceremo-
nies. We had scarcely sat down to the much-needed entertain-
ment before we were smothered and sickened by an atmosphere of
heat and mould. We beat a hasty retreat to the open corridor.
Here we had for a table a broad granite slab, which had fallen from
the roof many ages since. We dined with the shadows of the mas-
sive columns projected over us by the torch-lights of our bearers.
The ladies retired to their stately rooms, but a trial of half an hour
proved sleep, and even life, impossible there. The pallets were
brought out and spread on the floor of the open dining-hall. All
were wakeful, and contemplated for hours this strange experience
of sleeping in the Libyan Desert under the starlit sky. Our
thoughts wandered through the past and in the infinite, but we were
occasionally brought back by the heavy breathing of our sleep-
ing, staff-armed Arabian sentinels, the braying of the donkeys, or the
piteous moaning of the weary camels, at the outer verge of our un-
rivalled chamber.
We rose before the sun, and, while the air was yet comparatively
cool, explored the edifice, which consists of seven parallel naves or
complete buildings, each with a vaulted roof, each nave two hun-
dred feet long, and terminating in an elaborate and imposing sanc-
tuary. This peculiar form of the temple suggests the idea that it
was dedicated to the worship, not of one god, but of seven gods,
Archeeologists, however, are not, agreed on that point. Besides the
naves and the sanctuaries, there are other spacious chambers, some
behind the latter, and others behind the propyleum. Of these
chambers some may be supposed to have contained vessels of sacri-
fice, some sacred treasures, and others to have been the cells of the
priests who were vowed to chastity, poverty, and penance. No part
of the temple was adapted to the accommodation of a mass or con-
gregation of worshippers. On the wall of an interior corridor is a
‘tablet which contains a chronological record of the names and seals
of seventy-six successive kings of Egypt, beginning with Menes, the
founder of the monarchy and builder of Memphis, and ending with
572 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
Setis, whose statue, with that of his son Rameses, stands at the base,
as if reading the interesting genealogical record, a mutilated copy
of which is preserved in the British Museum, and there called the
“Stone of Abydos.” Every part of the walls, the interior as well
as the exterior, is covered with sculptures and hieroglyphics, Some
of these pictures represent the birth of Osiris, his marriage with
Isis, his death, and his apotheosis. They present him also in three
beneficent characters, as the god of the Nile, the god of the sun,
and the god of agriculture. And they exhibit Isis in her three at-
tractive characters, as goddess of the moon, goddess of wine, and
goddess of love. Other pictures present, allegorically, Osiris, Isis,
and their son Horus, as the benevolent deities receiving sacrifices,
and the treacherous brother Typhon, who dethrones Osiris, as the
god of evil—in other words, the devil. With the benevolent dei-
ties are associated animals of a gentle nature, also exalted to the
divine, as in the Christian pictures of the middle ages the lamb is
associated with the beloved disciple John. The ox is a sacred em-
blem of Osiris, and the cow of Isis. The evil deity, likewise, has
his brute representative in the crocodile, the hippopotamus, and
the ass.
The first inquiry that a disciple made, on hearing the fearful
prophecy of the Saviour, was, “ Master, when shall these things
be?” The first inquiry that a traveller makes, when he confronts
the devastated walls of Abydos, is, “ When were these things
built?” History records that Abydos flourished before the Persian
conquest, and that it fell into ruin at the time of the Mohammedan
invasion. Until the reign of the present Khédive, the vast ruins
lay buried under a mean Arab village. The hieroglyphics on the
tombs at Abydos show that they were built within a period
of nine hundred years, which period began with the year 3700
before our era—of course, five thousand five hundred and sev-
enty years ago. The builders must have had some expericnce
in architecture before these majestic structures could be produced.
If this account does not agree with Archbishop Usher’s chronology,
it is not for us to reconcile the conflict. History also has settled
some other points of interest concerning this temple: First, that
stands at the base,
l, a mutilated copy
id there called the
the interior as well
eroglyphics. Some
, his marriage with
nt him also in three
the god of the sun,
Isis in her three at-
yddess of wine, and
orically, Osiris, Isis,
receiving sacrifices,
rones Osiris, as the
the benevolent dei-
also exalted to the
lle ages the lamb is
he ox is a sacred em-
| deity, likewise, has
hippopotamus, and
hearing the fearful
n shall these tliings
s, when he confronts
were these things
d before the Persian
of the Mohammedan
édive, the vast ruins
hieroglyphics on the
ilt within a period
with the year 3700
e hundred and sev-
ad some expericnce
s could be produced.
Usher’s chronology,
ory also has settled
temple: First, that
RUINS OF ABYDOS, 573
its construction was contemporary with the Egyptian obelisk at
Luxor; second, that it was dedicated to Osiris; and, third, that
it was called Memnonium. But where is the tomb of Osiris?
The same veneration which the Christian world bestows on the
sepulchre at Jerusalem was paid by the Egyptians to the tomb of
Osiris. According to Plutarch, it was the destination of their
pilgrimages in life, and the place near which, if circumstances
allowed, they caused themselves to be buried. Adjacent to the
great Temple of Abydos is the Temple of Rameses II. A dilapi-
dated wall, now only four feet high, encloses an immense mass of
débris. Mariette Bey confesses his inability to reproduce, from
these ruins, the plan of the original structure. At the side of this
Temple of Rameses there is a high hillock, called the Kom-ses-Sul-
tan. This hillock has been formed by tiers of catacombs one above
the other. Many valuable funereal treasures have already been
removed to the museum at Cairo. Mariette Bey is encouraged, by
discoveries already made, in his hope of finding among tineti the
valuable tomb of Osiris.
Let us now reflect a moment. We have here, at Abydos
ascended to a very early age of human civilization. We hive
learned from this study that in that age mankind were no less
perplexed than they now are with the problem of the origin of
good and evil; that, incapable of tracing the beneficent and
injurious natural forces to a first and just Creator of both, they
deified and worshipped those natural forces themselves, magnifying
and blessing the good, and deprecating and propitiating the evil
In ancient times, nations were more isolated than now, but the
perplexity of the human mind concerning good 4nd evil was as
universal then as itis now. Each nation improve. and adopted
any supposed discovery of another. The mythologies of Greece
and Rome, supposed to clear up the mysterious origin of good and
_ evil, were borrowed from Egypt, and it seems probable that those
which still linger in Hindostan and China were brought from the
same primitive source. Finally, we have learned here tbat the
monaatic and ascetic systems, which yet prevail in every part of
Asia, and which still have a strong foothold among Christian na-
|
2
sta
TEMPLE OF DENDERA. 575
tions, existed here, under a theology which has untimely perished,
leaving neither priest nor votary on the face of the globe. There
are more reflections of a less general character. When the chil-
dren of Israel insisted that Moses should set up a golden calf for
their worship, did they do more than adopt ihe Egyptian dedica-
tion of the ox and the cow to Osirisand Isis? Was the Fgyptian
apotheosis of the crocodile and the serpent the germ of the idea
of the evil serpent which tempted our first parents to their fall in
Eden? Was it the germinal idea of the brazen serpent which
Moses “lifted up?” Has the capacity of man for religious knowl-
edge its limit, beyond which it cannot go, and is each of its various
systems, although perverted, based on some intuitive idea or
abused revelation ?
Kenneh, May 1%th.—We planted our stake here at four o’clock
yesterday afternoon, and immediately proceeded to explore the
Temple of Dendera. It is more modern and better preserved,
though less interesting, than the Memnonium. Its construction was
begun by one of the Ptolemies, two hundred and fifty years before
the Christian era, and was completed under the Emperor Tiberius,
while our Saviour was yet living in Jerusalem. Some of its decora-
tions were added in the reign of Nero. It has thus happened that,
though it does not combine the prcfane with any thing sacred, it
does combine illustrations of different. profane systems. It com-
bines the history, mythology, and science, of ancient Egypt. It is
elaborate equally in design and execution. We can hardly count
its halls and chambers. The walls, the ceilings, the columns, the
doors, the windows, the capitals, the surbases and pedestals, and
even the staircases, are crowded with texts and bass-reiiefs. These
have such a mutual correspondence that the antiquary finds it not
difficult to penetrate their meaning, and even the ceremonies of
worship. The temple was designed as a hall in which to celebrate
the inauguration of the sovereign of Egypt in three characters, as
King of Upper Egypt, King of Lower Egypt, and chief pontiff in
the worship of Isis. The ceremonies consisted in stately proces-
siona, sacrifices, prayers, and offerings. There is a well-marked
576 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
division of the chambers into four groups: the first, a vestibule a
or open hall, in the place of the propyleum, which was customary Mv
in Egypt; a grand gate-way, which was opened to the king alone, se
with lesser ones on either side, which gave access to priests and :
others who brought offerings. A bass-relief on the north side shows th
the progress of the sovereign as King of Lower Egypt; a similar bi
tablet, on the opposite side, his entrance as King of Upper Egypt. si
In these ceremonies, two deities, Thoth, who was a brother of Isis i
(and whom the Greeks recognize as Mercury), and Horus, her son, th
pour on the king’s head the water of purification. Two goddesses ¥
invest him with a double crown. Then, two deities, one from in
Heliopolis, in Upper Egypt, the other from Thebes, in Lower Hn
Egypt, take the king by the hand, and conduct him into the pres. ll
ence of Isis. The second group of chambers, ten in number, were
all closed and painted black. The procession was formed in one N
of these silent halls, and the offerings were prepared for a feast in iy
another. The walls of one of them are ‘ .namented with four boats, y
like those now in use on the Nile, the boats being carried in pro- "
cession. Each of these boats contains, at the middle, a long chest th
or box, covered with a thick white veil. This chest corresponds a
exactly with the descriptions of the “ark of the covenant” which
was held in such regard by the Jews. One of the chambers was a P
Wi
laboratory where incense, oils, and essences were prepared for per-
fuming the statues of the gods. Others contained rich vestments
for covering their limbs. The offerings to the gods, as painted
on the walls, were all sorts of birds, animals, fine clothing, and
ornaments of silver and gold. Instead of the one sanctuary, as at
the Memnonium, there are two here, one dedicated to Osiris, the
other to Isis. The former is ornamented with a representation of
his death, resurrection, and triumph. We were more interested,
however, in a small interior structure, in the complete form of a
temple, in which was celebrated the feast of the New Year, which
took its date from a transit of Sirius. This hall has twelve columns,
which are respectively dedicated to the several months, There is
also a dark chamber of exquisite architecture which was used for
the preservation of mysterious objects, which none but the king
]
de
the first, a vestibule
which was customary
ed to the king alone;
access to priests and
n the north side shows
ywer Egypt; a similar
King of Upper Egypt.
.was a brother of Isis
), and Horus, her son,
ation. Two goddesses
two deities, one from
om Thebes, in Lower
uct him into the pres-
‘s, ten in number, were
sion was formed in one
prepared for a feast in
mented with four boats,
's being carried in pro-
he middle, a long chest
This chest corresponds
f the covenant” which
b of the chambers was a
were prepared for per-
tained rich vestments
b the gods, as painted
nals, fine clothing, and
he one sanctuary, as at
Hedicated to Osiris, the
vith a representation of
were more interested,
he complete form of 4
the New Year, which
all has twelve columns,
eral months. There is
ire which was used for
ich none but the king
MR. SEWARD’S BIRTHDAY. BUT
and the pontiff were permitted to see. Stranger, however, than
any of these are the labyrinthine subterranean chambers, properly
called crypts. They are without doors or windows and yet their
walls are covered with inscriptions, and these recite the date of
their construction, but not their use. It is supposed that they were
built as places of deposit and concealment of the treasures and
sacred vessels and vestments, in case of surprise by an enemy.
However this may be, we can never forget the demonstration of
their present use, which we encountered. With the aid of torches,
we crept on our knees through an opening which had been made
in the wall that enclosed one of them. As we rose to our feet,
there was a deafening noise, accompanied with a motion of the air,
like the flapping of the sails of a ship in a storm at sea, and thou:
sands of frightened bats came dashing against us, making their
way into the outer light, from which they had taken refuge. Cleo-
patra caused the ornamentation of the outer wall to be completed
with an zntaglio of herself, and another of her son, the child of
Julius Cesar. This figure is inferior to the Grecian statuary of
that period ; nevertheless, its outlines agree with the accepted rep-
resentations of that eccentric and fascinating queen.
Avoiding alike the darkened sanctuaries and the crypts, we
spread our table in the cheerful temple of the New Year. There,
with Osiris and Isis, and Thoth and Horus, Pascht, and we know
not how many other deities looking down on us from the walls, we
celebrated the anniversary of Mr. Seward’s seventieth birthday.
One of the party amused us by quoting from Homer, and applying
to Mr. Seward, the words:
. “whose soul no respite knows,
Though years and honors bid him seek repose.”’
Mr. Seward answered, repeating the two other lines:
“But now the last despair surrounds our host,
No hour must pass, no moment must be lost,”
Ph got,
CHAPTER VI.
THEBES AND ITS RUINS,
What Thebes is now.—A Grand Reception.—A Federal Salute—The Scenery of the
Nile-—The Temple of Luxor.—The Houses of the Consuls.—History of Luxor,—
Karnak.—The Hall of the Gods,—King Shishak.—Sphinx Avenues.—We dine with
the Vice-Consul.—The Colossii—The Ancient Tombs.—The Tombs of the Kings,
Animal Worship.—The Rameseum.—Grandeur of Thebes.
Thebes, May 1%th.—F rom the first hour of our classic reading,
Thebes is the one place which we have most desired, and least of
all hoped, to see. But, we are here, moored under the east bank
of the Nile, which once supported that glorious city of antiquity,
We have come too late, by thousands of years, to verify the descrip
tions given of it by the poets and historians of old. There are
no longer “a hundred gates” here, nor is there one gate, nor a
wall, nor a trace ofa wall. There are no monuments by which we
could decide the disputed question whether the Diospolis, situated
on the east bank of the Nile, and including Luxor and Karnak,
was the whole of Thebes, or whether it extended across the river,
and included the Colossi, the Memnonium, and the Necropolis,
We must first notc, not what Thebes was, but what it is now,
Our deck is forty feet perpendicularly below the top of the bank,
There was no wharf, no dock, no bund, no ghaut; there is no
stone stairway, there is no wooden one. In anticipation of ow
coming, the sheik (governor), by direction of Sultan Pacha, has ex.
cavated steps in the loose, dry earth. They will serve us perhaps
to reach the summit, but they will need to be repaired for our re
7S,
~Salute-—The Scenery of the
Yonsuls.—History of Luxor,—
yhinx Avenues.—We dine with
—The Tombs of the Kings,
abes.
of our classic reading,
st desired, and least of
sd under the east bank
brious city of antiquity.
irs, to verify the descrip-
ans of old. There are
there one gate, nor a
onuments by which we
the Diospolis, situated
g Luxor and Karnak,
ended across the river,
and the Necropolis.
as, but what it is now,
w the top of the bank,
no ghaut}; there is no
In anticipation of ow
bf Sultan Pacha, has ex
y will serve us perhaps
b be repaired for our re
THEBES.
| {ill | |
BAU UA HR PX MLL YY Um
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
580
turn. Moreover, we are having a grand reception. Ali Murad
Effendi, the loyal United States consul, although he is a true Mus.
sulman, has not only displayed the broad and bright United State
flag at his house-top, but also the gorgeous banner of Brazil, and
at this moment he is pouring down upon us, with a single rusty
musket, a Federal salute of eighteen guns, from his balcony. Al]
the people of Thebes are on the bank to receive us. They consist
of twelve mule-drivers, with their mules; twelve donkey-drivers,
with their asses; ten or a dozen manufacturers and vendors of
antiquities and relics, and with an outside attendance of as
many fellahs, brought here by the unusual sight of bonfires kin.
dled on the bank. We ascend, we reach the summit, we stand
upon the sacred plain, we dismiss the muleteers and donkey.
boys for the night, we thread our way through a musty Arab vil.
lage to the consulate. In the upper chambers we pay our acknowl.
edgments, take Mocha coffee, and a chibouque.
May 18th.—The bonfires went out late last night, and we rose
early this morning to make a first survey. The scenery of the
Nile is at no other time seen in such delicate hues as in the hour
before sunrise. Above Thebes, the river winds around the foot of
the Arabian Desert, forming a chain of small gray lakes. The head.
lands in these lakes are crowned with scattering farms, and not only
the outlines of each tree, but every broad leaf, is distinctly defined
on the clear horizon. A mirage from afar reflects the same desert,
lakes, headlands, and trees, gathered into cool, shady groves—in.
distinct and dreamy pictures, like those in mountain agates.
Forty rods from the river-bank, on a terrace of sand, which
seems to be a lower ridge of the dome, there rise before us two rows
of majestic columns, roofless, but held together by architraves not
less massive. Familiar all our lives with pictorial representations,
we recognize the ruined Temple of Luxor. Beyond that ruin, with
the exception of here and there a mud-hut, is only the naked desert;
at the left of the colonnade, heaps of débris, half buried in the sand.
In the midst of these masses, towers up a red granite obelisk, high-
er and newer than the honey-combed one which marks the site oi
eception. Ali Murad
ugh he is a true Mus.
1 bright United State
banner of Brazil, and
is, with a single rusty
‘om his balcony. All
eive us. They consist
welve donkey-drivers,
turers and vendors of
ide attendance of as
sight of bontires kin-
the summit, we stand
uleteers and donkey.
ugh a musty Arab vil-
rs we pay our acknowl.
1e.
last night, and we rose
. The scenery of the
e hues as in thie hour
inds around the foot of
gray lakes. The head-
ing farms, and not only
eaf, is distinctly defined
reflects the same desert,
ool, shady groves—in-
ountain agates.
terrace of sand, which
rise before us two rows
ther by architraves not
ictorial representations,
Beyond that ruin, with
s only the naked desert;
half buried in the sand.
bd granite obelisk, high:
vhich marks thie site 0i
OBELISKS AT KARNAK. 581
the Temple of the Sun at Heliopolis. Beyond these débris, looking
through the vista formed by the colonnade and obelisk, are seen tie
dwarfish minarets of a sh. bby Arab mosque, rising out of a group
or cluster of adobe huts, an Arab village, which may contain fifteen
hundred people. Three tall, modern houses loom up above the
OBELISKS AT KARNAK,
roofless dwellings of the wretched town. These houses are built on
the wall of the dilapidated temple, and of materials taken from it,
and are the residences of the governor, the British consul, and the
United States vice-consul, who also flourishes under an exequatur
38
582 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
as consul of Brazil. We ascended the terrace and stood on the
pavement beneath the double colonnade. At a distance of two
miles northward, among ficlds which, though now dry and dusty,
still wear the aspect of careful cultivation, we see the stupendous
gate-ways, columns, and obelisks of Karnak. An Arab hamlet nes-
tles at the base of these ruins, as at Luxor. Beyond Karnak we see
only the winding river and the converging Libyan and Arabian Des.
erts. Turning our back upon the morning sun, we see, across the
river, a plain, stretching along the opposite bank for five miles, and
three miles in width, cultivated though uninhabited, subject to in-
undation. Beyond the plain are the lofty and irregular moun-
tains of the Libyan Desert. The immediate river-bank is fringed
a with palms and sycamores. At the northern extremity of the plain
Pri we distinguish a cluster of stately columns; on the left, a like,
ees s08 though less prominent one. The former are ruins of the temples ¢
By called by the Arabs Qournah-Deir-el-Bahari, and the Ramescum,
és : The latter are the ruins of the temple called, in Arabic, Medéenet
= se | Hiboo. Midway between these widely-separated heaps of ruins,
te so are two lofty stone piles, each showing a human outline. These
ey, are the Colossi—the one so marvellously vocal to the ancients;
B a4 the other, its mute companion. Those ruined temples, with the
eee Colossi, are all that remain of Thebes, on the west bank of the Nile,
Rie ul that can be discerned within a single view taken from Luxor.
ode Those ruins, with Luxor and Karnak, are the disjecta membiw of
i the great capital.
4 it We turn to Luxor. It was built by Pharaoh Amenophis III,
é ‘ fourteen hundred and eighty years before Christ, at the very time
f when the rebellion of Dathan and Abiram was going on in the
Be am desert. Eighty years later, Rameses II. raised two monolith granite
ifr Ye obelisks beyond the colonnade. One of these we have already
tbe i ‘J mentioned ; the other we hope to see in its present site in the Place
tie’ : _ de la Concorde at Paris. He raised, at the same time, two mono-
bie iS 4 lith granite statues, not less than twenty-five feet high, which are
now seen broken off at the middle, and prostrate on the ground.
The colonnade, the almost level walls, the solitary obelisk, and
those broken colossal statues, together with many lesser ones
xe and stood on the
t a distance of two
‘now dry and dusty,
» see the stupendous
An Arab hamlet nes-
seyond Karnak we see
yan and Arabian Des-
un, we see, across the
ank for five miles, and
habited, subject to in-
and irregular moun-
-yiver-bank is fringed
extremity of the plain
3; on the left, a like,
. ruins of the temples
i, and the Ramescun.
1, in Arabic, Medéenet
arated heaps of ruins,
1uman outline. These
ocal to the ancients;
ned temples, with the
west bank of the Nile,
w taken from Luxor.
he disjecta membrw of
hraoh Amenophis III,
hrist, at the very time
was going on in the
Ld two monolith granite
hese we have already
present site in the Place
same time, two mono:
e feet high, which are
ostrate on the ground.
» solitary obelisk, and
ith many lesser ones
dedicated to gods, heroes, and animals, some remaining in place
and others strewed among the débris, are all that remain of thie
original Luxor. After the conquest of the Greeks, other orna-
mental statues, paintings, and inscriptions, were sda to the
temple, among which latter are found the names of Psammctichus
and Alexander. It is to be hoped that the work of excavation
long s nce suspended, will be renewed. In that case it will its
ably ajypear that the temple structures extended much farther for-
ward. ‘The ruins as now seen, while they command admiration b
their grandeur, leave on the visitor’s mind a painful impression i
the narrow extent of the temple.
Ws encounter no such disappointment at Karnak. It is the
most imposing ruin in the world, devastated sadly, but not in a
heap of débris, The ruins cover an area of nearly two miles in
circumference. Was there one symmetrical structure, dedicated to
one worship, or was there a combination of many temples, dedi-
cated to many gods? The former idea is supported by the fact
that there are still traceable twelve approaches to the ruins, in dif-
ferent directions, each avenue broad enough for two charicts. We
explored two of them, of which half a mile has been excavated.
One leads from Luxor; the other, at right anzles with the first, leads
from the river-bank in front. Each is ornamented with a row
of colossal Sphinxes, placed at intervals of six feet, not unlike the
statuary which adorns the approach to the Ming Tombs in China.
The entrances at the terminations of these avenues are surmounted
by gate-ways such as a Titan might construct, and these gate-ways
open into a series of propylea, or vestibules, which have dimensions
that can only be compared with the bases of the Pyramids. Our
first visit to Karnak was nade at the end of the avenue of Luxor.
It is adorned with a winged sun. We passed through four succes-
sive propyleea into an open area, which has received so many names
as to be practically nameless. Some writers call it the “Hall of
the Gods,” some the “ Hall of the Kings,” others the “ Hall of
‘olumns.” It is three hundred and thirty feet long, and one hun-
dred and sixty-four feet wide. On each side of it, near the wall, is
arow of columns, one hundred and thirty-four in number. They
584 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
are forty-three fect high, and each is a monolith, with a diameter
of twelve feet. In the centre of the hall are two other rows of
columns, seventy-two feet high, also monoliths, and the several
rows have the effect of dividing the hall into a nave with two side.
aisles. All were roofed, the nave, of course, higher than the aisles,
The ceiling of all was of massive hewn flat stone; it has long since
fallen to the ground. All the columns have highly-wrought and
magnificent capitals, no two uf them alike in design. The columns
nearest the walls are chiefly ornamented with the flowering lotus ;
, v.
1H) AS,
r
COLUMNS AT KARNAK.
th, with a diameter
» two other rows of
hs, and the several
nave with two side.
igher than the aisles,
ne; it has long since
highly-wrought and
esign. The columns
the flowering lotus;
COLUMNS AT KARNAK. 585
the columns which support the nave combine figures of birds with
the lotus leaves and branches. The surfaces of the pillars are di-
vided into circular panels, arranged one above the other. These
panels are covered with shields, on which are elaborately carved
and painted with rich colors innumerable mythological and his-
torical devices and emblems. The darkness of this stupendous
chamber was only relieved by the faint light admitted through
small grated windows placed in the wall which divided the ceiling
of the nave and that of the aisles. Some of the columns in the
chamber are now prostrate, others have swerved from their places
and fallen against other columns, or against the walls. The mys-
terious gloom which must have originally pervaded the chamber
has passed away, and it now seems merely an endless and confused
forest of columns, which has been swept and desolated by the tem-
pest. Though an inscription on one of these noble columns shows
an antiquity of three thousand three hundred and twenty years,
the masonry, as well as the sculpture and painting, has the fresh-
ness of yesterday. In no part of the ruin, either on column, archi-
trave, or wall, is there ivy or moss, mould or stain. Such is the
climate ot the Nile. Bold bass-reliets sculptured on the outer wall
represent, in regular chronological order, the events of the cam-
paigns of Setis against the Bedouin Arabs, the Assyrians, and the
Armenians. In one of those sculptures he is seen seated in his
chariot in the thickest of an engagement. On the forehead of one
of his horses is inscribed his name—“ The Might of Thebes.”
The enemy flee before him, and take refuge in a fortress. An-
other bass-relief presents a different battle-scene. Here the enemy
fall prostrate on the earth before the terrible countenance of ma-
jesty. The king sits proudly erect in his chariot in his attitude of
triumph, followed by a train of prisoners in chains, whom he pre-
sents to the gods at Thebes. Another represents the victorious
king on his return to Thebes, and welcomeg by his ministers and
courtiers on the banks of the Nile, which are crowded with won-
dering, awe-stricken crocodiles. One of the bass-reliefs is particu-
larly interesting, from its being a contemporaneous confirmation of
Jewish sery,tural history :
TTT
WAN Hilti
|
Haiti
WIL WT th
tt
ep aes wee YY |
eae ~ ar afte ai
ne
a
me
i
KING SHISHAK. 587
“ And it came to pass ¢hat in the fifth year of King Rehoboam,
Shishak, King of Egypt, came up against Jerusalem, because they
had transgressed against the Lorn, with twelve hundred chariots,
and threescore thousand horsemen: and the people were without
number that came with him out of Egypt; the Lubims, the Suk-
kims, and the Ethiopians.”
“So Shishak, King of Egypt, came up against Jerusalem, and
took away the treasures of the house of the Lorn, and the treasures
of the king’s house; he took all: he carried away also the shields
of gold which Solomon had made.”
Shishak is represented raising his arm and striking a long group
of prisoners who are crouching at his feet. At the side of the
victor are seen several fortifications which bear the names of towns
in Palestine, which Shishak subdued. Still another tablet on the
walls must be mentioned. It recites the entire text of an Egyptian
poem, composed in commemoration of the victories of Rameses IT.
The obelisk of Queen Hatason, which is said to be the highest in
the world, stands near the great hall, on a pedestal of dimensions
scarcely larger than the foot of the obelisk itself. What skill must
it have required to raise it from the ground, and place it securely
on that narrow pedestal! An inscription, written perpendicularly
on the obelisk, gives its date and dedication to Queen Hatason,
regent, three thousand five hundred and thirty years ago. An
inscription on the base records that the top was covered with gold,
the spoils of battle, and that the obelisk itself was gilded.
The court or area which lics between the teinple and the propy-
lea on the river-side presents a scene not less unique than melan-
choly. It is larger even than the Hall of Columns, which we have
described. It is studded with pedestals even more numerous than,
and equally gigantic with, those in the other hall, each one of which
bore a column equally majestic ; over these must have been stretched
aroof as stupendous and massive. But of this vast structure, not
only the roof, but all the columns have fallen, save only one, yet
erect on its pedestal, as a solitary representative of the departed
grandeur. Making a circuit around the ruins of Karnak, we found
agreat reservoir of Nile-water, collected as it oozes through the
wm eh ee
Bees gags a
588 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
soil underneath the temple, at the fluod. It is so deeply impreg-
nated with nitre, that the Government uses its deposits for the
manufacture of gunpowder. From the bank of this reservoir we
looked upward through one of the excavated Sphinx avenues. It
now presents a very curious spectacle. The great highway is
fenced in, its pavement has been removed or buried in the earth,
and it is now a vegetable-garden. The Sphinxes, however, still
remain on guard, to prevent Bedouin depredations of water-melon
and sweet-potato beds, as patiently as they guarded of old the
approach of kings and priests to the sanctuary. While we stood
mrsing on the strange freaks of Time, a hyena, startled by the noise
of our coming, rushed out of a recess underneath one of the fallen
columns, among the débris which we had been unable to penetrate,
and made his escape over the sands to some safer haunt in the
desert.
Antiquaries are much exercised with the inquiry, By what
agency has the devastation of Karnak been effected? They indulge
in various conjectures. One attributes the work to the earthquake;
but there is no record of earthquakes. A second, that one of the
Ptclemies committed the devastation by siege. But those princes
seem to have been disposed rather to preserve and embellish the
magnificent monuments of Egypt, than to destroy them. A third,
that the nitrous Nile-water has dissolved the earthen foundations,
But, making all allowances for the absence of frost, of snow, and of
rain, in this extraordinary climate, is it not more wonderful that
Karnak resisted so long, than that it is now found so slowly passing
away ¢
With the conquest of Cambyses, the ancient Egyptian church
and state (to the glories of which Karnak was dedicated) began to
decline. They gave way to religions and governments which were
hostile. Other systems, equally alien and hostile, have followed.
It is more than two thousand years since Egypt has had for a ruler
either an adherent of the ancient religion, or a descendant of the
ancient kings or people. We saw Karnak first in broad daylight,
but afterward in the early night illuminated by the evanescent blue
light; but we saw it last under the bright moonlight, which. while
is so deeply impreg-
its deposits for the
of this reservoir we
Sphinx avenues. It
1e great highway is
buried in the earth,
hinxes, however, still
ations of water-melon
guarded of old the
ary. While we stood
, startled by the noise
eath one of the fallen
n unable to penetrate,
1e safer haunt in the
he inquiry, By what
fected? They indulge
ork to the earthquake ;
econd, that one of the
ve, But those princes
rve and embellish the
pstroy them. A third,
b earthen foundations.
f frost, of snow, and of
more wonderful that
ound so slowly passing
cient Egyptian church
as dedicated) began to
vernments which were
hostile, have followed.
ypt has had for a ruler
y a descendant of the
first in broad daylight,
by the evanescent blue
oonlight, which. while
THE COLOSSI. 589
it subdues irregularities, deepenmy and lengthening P
imparts new majesty and beauty ie all snes of a
Leaving the ruin, we mounted our donkeys, and by the light
of blazing torches made our way through Sphinx avenue back to
Luxor, stopping at times to look whether a fox that we saw steal
through the gate-way, or a hyena, was at our heels. We arrived
safely at the consulate, and there, seated on cushions cn the hos-
pitable house-top, around a table one foot high, we dined after the
Turkish manner, with the vice-consul, the governor being also a,
guest, upon the substantials, dainties, and delicacies of the season.
At this feast, each party, taking care not to interfere with the equal
rights of others, dipped the spoon into a common bowl of soup, and
with his own fingers took off the parts he liked best in a succession
of kids, sheep, and turkeys, roasted whole. These viands gave
place to a long course of sweets and comfits, water-melons, setae
and apricots. Coffee and chibouques followed with chateau Mar-
gaux, Steinberger cabinet, champagne, avd sherry, all brought
from the pantry of the Crocodile. Here we poured out libations
to Ammon, Osiris, Isis, and Horus, such as certainly were unknown
to ancient Thebes, and such as only those good Mohammedans who
attain the dignity of foreign consuls permit their Christian guests
toenjoy. The excellent host and the governor did not disdain to
join in these offerings—a circumstance which we should not men-
tion if we supposed these notes would ever be translated into Arabic.
May 19th.—It was yet dark when we took a small boat and
rowed down the Nile. We landed on the low, western, sandy
bank, and proceeded on donkeys directly across the plain. Under
the light of the rising sun, the distant Colossi assumed more and
more their proper and majestic forms and proportions. We halted
between them. Recognized by antiquity as one of the wonders of
the world, they are less wonderful than the dispute which has so
long prevailed in regard to the purpose for which they were built.
Thebes must have been a city of religious, philosophic, and political
ideas. The people dwelt chiefly on the eastern bank of the river,
while the western bank became their cemetery. either at Luxor
— =i ees
590 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
nor at Karnak did we find a trace of an ancient tomb or grave.
On the western bank here, we found little else than a universal
cemetery. All modern cemeteries are ornamented with monumen-
tal gate-ways, churches, and chapels. What more natural than that
the portals of the cemetery of Thebes should be graced with these
two colossal statues? Amenophis III. dedicated them to deified
kings. He designed by them to impress the pilgrims to the tombs
with awe, and he was successful. In a superstitious age, not only
the Egyptian, but the Persian, Greek, and Roman, heard or ima-
gined that he heard, the statue which bears the traditional name of
Memnon, wail and sigh in the tones of the AZolian harp. More-
over, Memnon was the son of Aurora. How natural it was that he
should greet his divine mother morning and evening! Nobody
believes this story now, but, two thousand years ago, no one doubted
it. The Colossi are sixty feet high, in a sitting posture, indicating
contemplation. While Thebes remained to its Egyptian founders,
the Colossi, which originally were monoliths, retained their shape,
and Memnon continued his mysterious, oracular utterances. Dut
an earthquake shattered both. Memnon’s voice became feeble;
nay, it began to be questioned whether he spoke at all. The good
Roman emperor, Septimus Severus, reconstructed them, employing
the best architects to restore Memnon’s speech. But the imperial
surgery failed. Memnon became actually dumb. Happily, the
repairs then made, although with coarse materials, have preserved
the statue to the present day.
Men’s habits are formed from their instincts. Egypt excited
strong interest in Rome in the time of the emperors. The Roman
travellers ambitiously inscribed, on the pedestal of Memnon, the
records of their visits and observations. Woman was woman
eighteen hundred years ago. “I, Salina Augusta, wife of the Em-
peror Augustus Cyesar, have twice heard Memnon within one
hour.” This is one of the inscriptions. There are hundreds of
other inscriptions which, although written so long ago, are more
easily read now than those written twenty years ago in our coun-
try church-yards. Under the necessity of improving the cooler part
of the day, for fatiguing observations and explorations, we passed,
ent tomb or grave.
se than a universal
ted with monumen-
re natural than that
ye graced with these
ted them to deified
ilgrims to the tombs
titious age, not only
yman, heard or ima-
> traditional name of
Aolian harp. More-
natural it was that he
| evening! Nobody
3 ago, no one doubted
1g posture, indicating
ts Egyptian founders,
, retained their shape,
ular utterances. But
voice became fecble;
boke at all. The good
cted them, employing
ch. But the imperial
dumb. Happily, the
erials, have preserved
incts. Egypt excited
nperors. The Roman
estal of Memnon, the
Woman was woman
usta, wife of the Em-
Memnon within one
here are hundreds of
so long ago, are more
years ago in our coun:
proving the cooler part
plorations, we passed,
THE MUMMY-PITS.
591
without stopping, the ruins of Deir-cl-Medineh, Medéenet Haboo,
and the Rameseum. A mountain-spur of white sand-rock projects
here toward the river-bank. Upon the ledge we found the rock
pierced with parallel tiers of catacombs. These catacombs, not
improperly called mummy-pits, are four, eight, or tea feet deep.
We soon became weary of counting them. Each one has been
robbed of its contents. History, we know not how truly, says that
the depredations began with the Arab conquest. If this be true,
then it would appear that at the very period when the nations of
Western Africa were selling their living children into slavery to
Europeans, the dwellers in Eastern Africa were selling the remains
of the dead as objects of curiosity to the same men. The Arab
invaders of Egypt did not stop at this; they used the inflaminable
mummy-cases for fuel, and the grave-clothes for lights. We may
judge of the extent of this past trade in mummies, from the collec-
tions which are found in Europe and America. The Khédive has
put a stop to these barbarous spoliations. Of course, the great
mass of the dead yet remain hidden and undisturbed. Calculations,
based on the estimated population of Thebes, and the average dura-
tion of human life, give the number of bodies which are buried in
this necropolis alone at eight or ten millions. Having crossed the
ledge, we entered a dark and rugged mountain-pass, leading to the
desert. Here, the cemetery shows another character; elaborate
and costly tombs have been excavated on either side of the ravine,
in the form of square chambers, and in tiers or terraces, all built so
as to command a view of the plain below. As we looked up from
our path into these excavations, we mistook them for deserted bat-
teries. We deviated so as to look into two or three of them.
They consist invariably of an antechamber, like a chapel, which
communicates by a stone staircase with a narrow tomb below. It
is supposed that the reiatives and friends of the deceased were
accustomed to assemble in the outer chamber. The walls, as well
as the ceilings of the chamber, are richly ornamented with sculp-
tures, intaglios and paintings, the colors of which are as clear and
bright as if laid on yesterday. The subjects of these ornaments are
sometimes religious rites, sometimes events in the life and career
EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
592
of the dead. One of them exhibits the deceased as general of the
Soudan, arriving among a motley people, and taking possession of
his government. Some of his subjects are negroes, have clive com-
plexions and negro features; others have Circassian features with
olive complexions. Some are red men, and, strange to say, there is
a mixture of white women. The animals of that region are painted
with considerable effect. There are giraffes, oxen with long horns,
and oxen with their legs terminating in human hands. Presents
are brought to the governor, of gold rings and vases, bronze and
silver horses and lions, silver oars for boats, and ostrich-feathers,
The inscriptions carry us back to the nineteenth Egyptian dynasty,
Farther onward, the same pass branches into two ravines. Herc is
; ee the Westminster Abbey, or rather the St.-Denis, of ancient Egypt.
aan One ravine seems to have been appropriated to the tombs of queens,
cigs the other to the tombs of kings. The paths which lead to both are ?
a | indescribably rugged and desolate. The rocks in which these tombs )
v = , are excavated, never receiving rain or dew, seem to be heated with ;
Sonck internal fires. Massive door-ways of the tombs are opened into the
tm yc face of the mountain; then a descending, smooth, inclined plane
: €=25) conducts to the tombs, which are excavated at a lower depth of the
wer | rock. The tombs consist of a succession of vaulted chambers of
pce various dimensions; some are only twenty feet square, some forty,
mites eighty, or a hundred feet long, and proportionately wide. Some.
; i times one chamber opens directly into another in a straight line,
ae while there are larger chambers on either side. Sometimes a cor.
peu 12 ridor traverses the tomb. The outer chambers have, as in the cata:
Gr) ty combs before mentioned, audience-chambers or chapels. Many of
mo them are obviously built as banqueting-rooms for costly entertain.
B ments of friends of the dead. .
TT Strabo, in the first century, described the tombs of the kings,
Bee ii He gave their number at forty. Only twenty-five of these have
ae “4 been opened. ‘This has been a task of no small difficulty, because
tin gt. in every case the cave was found not only hermetically sealed, but
the door-way itself was covered with a débris so artificially heaped
as to baffle search for the sacred place. All travellers describe one
of these tombs which was discovered by Belzoni some fifty ycars
sed as general of the
taking possession of
roes, have olive com-
cassian features with
yrange to say, there is
at region are painted
yxen with long horns,
an hands. Presents
nd vases, bronze and
, and ostrich-feathers.
1th Egyptian dynasty.
two ravines. Here is
nis, of ancient Egypt.
o the tombs of queens,
which lead to both are
-s in which these tombs
seem to be heated with
bs are opened into the
mooth, inclined plane
lat a lower depth of the
f vaulted chambers of
ect square, some forty,
tionately wide. Some-
her in a straight line,
ide. Sometimes a cor-
ers have, as in the cata-
5 or chapels. Many of
ms for costly entertain-
re tombs of the kings.
nty-five of these have
Emall difficulty, because
hermetically sealed, but
sig 80 artificially heaped
travellers describe one
Jelzoni some fifty years
THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 593
vo
ago, and called by him the tomb of Setis. It is the most magnifi-
cent of them all. Strange to say, though it was so carefully hidden,
it had already been violated when he opened it. Within this and
the other tombs, the visitor penctrates a world entirely ditferent
from that which we inhabit. The entire life of the deceased is
presented in monumental painting, sculpture, and hieroglyphics, on
the walls of the successive chambers. He is seen at home with his
family. Every thing around him wears a chimerical aspect. He is
holding intercourse with gods in grotesque forms, unknown else-
where. Long, slimy serpents glide through the chambers and lie
around the door. Manifestly this is the scene of the trial and judg-
ment of the dead. All the arrangements of the chamber and its
embellishments are desigiied to produce an effect of awe and so-
lemnity. Scenes of cruelty and torture are represented by hideous
figures ; culprits and prisoners are undergoing death by decapita-
tion or by burning. These, indeed, are very unnatural; but who
shall say that, considering the early age to which they belong, they
are more absurd than the fantastical torture of the wicked in the
conceptions of Dante and Michael Angelo ¢ :
Antiquaries suppose that the scenes of torture and cruelty
painted on the walis were designed to illustrate the trial through
which the deceased is passing in his successive animal transfor-
mations preparatory to a happy resurrection on the earth. The
idea finds support in the historical fact that, according to the
Egyptian polity, kings were supposed always to undergo a trial
after death.
These chambers of cruelty and torture are succeeded by others,
which are more cheerful in aspect. Here the ornamentation illus-
trates the process of purification through which the soul is passing.
The last chamber, always the lowest, shows its happy reception
into the family of the gods. In these happier chambers the walls
are covered with hieroglyphics, in which the wandering soul recites
the praises of the gods, and at last, the trial being past, the soul
celebrates its triumph. After examining minutely the tomb of
Setis, we looked into that of Rameses II. Here there is a swite of
chambers on either side of the great reception-hall. These cham-
nee,
Reet
ime
x ad
roti
tg: <—
y* an
Wer. a
Be rhe
- 5d
Me ‘ 9 i
te
i
be a
we
i]
{ )
Be |
a ea
” ~ a
® a
t 3
t ij
} HJ
” if
Te ae
Hf »
‘ a
f
ta ws
i 38
ee 98
per
me 8
| bs fof
es
a oe
594 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
bers present numberless simply natural scenes. There are boats,
furniture, utensils, bows, arrows, and other weapons. Musicians
play on the lyre. The chambers in this tomb, moreover, are not
urranged in a straight line, but in the shape of a T, or cross. This
difference from the customary form is found to have been a depart-
ure from the original plan of construction. If the excavation had
been carried straight forward, it would have invaded a tomb already
built. In this tomb of Rameses was found a red-granite sarcopha-
gus cut in the form of a shield. Sad to say, this beautiful ceno-
taph is now on exhibition in the museum of the Louvre at Paris,
and its lid graces the University of Cambridge.
The one feature of Egyptian civilization, which in modern times
scems to be the most absurd, is the importance they assigned to
brute animals. They not only worshipped in idol-forms the ox and
the cow, but they embalmed and buried with religious rites fishes,
crocodiles, cats, and dogs, and one of the pyramids at Saccara is the
receptacle of mummicd birds only. So we have found everywhere
similar relics. Doubtless the ancient Egyptian faith regarded the
animal forms which they thus preserved as the tenements of the
souls of monarchs, friends, or enemies.
It was quite eleven o’clock when, on our return from the tombs
of the kings, we came back to the tomb Deir-el-Medéenet. This
temple was a structure built in honor of the Queen-regent Hatason,
whose obelisk at Karnak we have already mentioned. The temple
was raised after her death to commemorate the glory of her admin.
istration. A series of courts rise one above another by terraces,
giving the structure the appearance of a fortification or ramparts.
Its embellishments consist of tableaux, which show us Hatason re-
ceiving her counsellors at the court of her brother Thoutmosis IL;
as regent under her brother Thoutmosis III. ; and last as herself, a
suvercign ; of armies marching out to conquest, of battles and con-
quests in Arabia, of prisoners taken and tributes received, of vessels
riding the Nile, laden with treasures and spoils; and, among others,
one of marked mythological intent, presenting the Egyptian goddess
identical with the Grecian Venus, in the form of a beautiful cow
suckling an infant Egyptian king.
|
1
f
i
_ There are bouts,
reapons. Musicians
y, moreover, are not
aT, or cross. This
have been a depart-
the excavation had
-aded a tomb already
ed-granite sarcopha-
‘this beautiful ceno-
he Louvre at Paris,
e.
hich in modern times
nee they assigned to
idol-forms the ox and
religious rites fishes,
mids at Saccara is the
ave found everywhere
ian faith regarded the
the tenements of the
return from the tombs
ar-el-Medéenet. This
ueen-regent Hatason,
ntioned. The teraple
he glory of her admin-
-e another by terraces,
tification or ramparts.
hh show us Hatason re-
rother Thoutmosis 1
; and last as herself, a
est, of battles and con-
ites received, of vessels
ils; and, among others,
g the Egyptian goddess
ym of a beautiful cow
THE RAMESEUM.
595
We have seen no temple res i
of Rameses III. It is he — anerstla Pla
The architecture of the palatial part is ee: pete ssa
for holding awnings over the doors are supported b sia
oners of war. At great hazard we climbed nae nies ae
wall, and reached chambers in a second story. In ae ; les
are bass-reliefs, much defaced, which serreuett the kin ie , nae
house surrounded by his family. One woman se ts ane
flowers, he plays chess with another, and receives fruit a a
other with a caress. On the walls of another chamber aa ee
ininorenients of the king are presented. Here a pictur Ke
king is deciphered and explained by Champollion : : He i : =
palace in a richly-ornamented chariot. He sits saeeied aaa Ny
feathers on a throne supported by statues of Justice and Tr fe ig
is attended by twelve aides-de-camp, and is followed by 4 : :
friends, and priests; his son and heir burns incense ea
The white bull follows, and the procession is closed by a fea
priests, bearing sacred ensigns, vases, and vessels of s} sie ‘
nally arrived at the place of inauguration, four birds the off 4 i
of Osiris, are set loose to announce to the north, the a
east, and the west, that Rameses has put on his crown.” mr ;
electiie telegraph of the ancients! Ten galleries ety bl e
illustrative of the military achievements of the king We ee
nize the nationalities of prisoners of war, though ae ictur aa
made three thousand years ago. Among them are Lib ot ; i
bians, and Ethiopians. How curious it is to find amon tie Zi é ti te
the Philistines, who so long maintained war with she Teraelites
A legend over the head of each prisoner gives his name fable
seems to have done little else but repeat itself since the neal
Rameses. One picture exhibits a basket filled with the hands of
prleoners, which were cut off on the battle-field, and beoritt to th
king as trephies. This practice, though it antedates by far the Morita
American custom of scalping the deceased enemy, is akin to it
The Rameseum was for Egypt what the triumphal arch of Advion
was for Rome, what the Arc de Triomphe is for France. are th
the speech which one of the Egyptian gods addresses to a victorious
ea meme
596 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
)
chief: “I turn my face to the north, and I see Phoenicia lying at
your feet; it is my will that the natives bring you their silver, their
gold, and their precious stones. I look eastward, and I see Arabia
furnishing you with perfumes, rare woods, and fruits. I turn my
face to the west, and I command the inhabitants of Libya to render
you their homage.”
Wherein does the Trumbull Gallery in the rotunda of the Cap.
itol at Washington differ from the ten triumphal galleries of the
Rameseum ?
A gigantic statue of the great Rameses at full length, and
scarcely less majestic than Memnon, has been shaken from its base
and broken into massive fragments, its face upward, and half buried
in the sand. What a prototype is this of the overthrow of the
Colonne Vendome and the gigantic imperial statue which crowned
it in the late revolution in France!
While Memphis was the capital of ancient Egypt, Thebes was
the chosen seat of science and religion. It was an ornamental city,
the pride of the Egyptians. We do not, indced, find here all that
Homer describes, but we are not at liberty to regard his description
of Thebes as an exaggeration. Certainly the kings and the people
who raised Karnak and Luxor, the Memnonium, the Rameseum and
the Pyramids, the Sphinx and the tombs of the kings and queens,
may well be believed to have had the necessary wealth, strength,
and taste, to surround the city of their pride with a wall which was
pierced with a hundred gates, and to send from each gate two hun-
dred knights and two hundred chariots.
Medéenet Haboo teaches an important lesson. This ancient
temple was, until lately, completely buried under a mean and
wretched Arab village. In the process of excavation, not only the
original Egyptian temple was found, but a Christian church, with
pillars, cornices, architraves, chancel, and oratorio, on Greek models.
The penury of Grecian architecture compared with the majesty of
the ancient Egyptian was never so effectually illustrated. The col-
umns of Osiris are sixty feet high and thirty-six feet in diameter,
and, with their lotus-leaved capitals, fill an area of an acre. The
Q
Christian church is crowded within a quarter of that area. Its
ee Pheenicia lying at
you their silver, their
ard, and I see Arabia
id fruits. I turn my
its of Libya to render
.e rotunda of the Cap-
nphal galleries of the
s at full length, and
n shaken from its base
pward, and half buried
‘the overthrow of the
statue which crowned
ent Egypt, Thebes was
vas an ornamental city,
Iced, find here all that
» regard his description
1e kings and the people
ium, the Rameseum and
the kings and queens,
essary wealth, strength,
with a wall which was
rom each gate two hun-
lesson. This ancicnt
d under a mean and
bxcavation, not only the
Christian church, with
htorio, on Greek models.
ed with the majesty of
ly illustrated. The col:
ty-six feet in diameter,
t area of an acre. The
barter of that area. Its
A SAFE PREDICTION,
0907
fluted columns are cig]
iteen feet higl
g igh, and seven feet in cire
es eet in circum-
We have finis y
e have finished our survey of Thebes, we have i
devastation made by the Persian, the Gre :. oie ee
) mreex, the Roman, the Chr
tan. { , is-
tian, and the Arab, and how much, after all, remains ?
’ € ‘
to predict that, when every civil and religious edifice : a pe
ing in Europe or the United States shall have fallen t ie ae
the already dilapidated monuments of Egypt will hay pe ee
sarcely a perceptible change. i lave undergone
CHAPTER VII.
ESNEH, EDFOU, ASSOUAN, AND PHILA.
The Coptic Convents.—Youssef and his Donkey.—Our Steamer aground.—The Ruins of
Esneh.—The Temple of Edfou.—Assouan.-—Its Surprising Activity.—Its Avrican
Population.—The Ancient Quarries.—Phile and the Cataracts of the Nile—A Mon.
ument of the First French Republic.
Exsneh, May 21st.—If time would allow, it would be an interest.
ing task to visit the Coptic convents which are found in small ani
poor villages on the desert verge. Their history is a touching one,
They were founded as a refuge for the Coptic Christians from
decree of the Emperor Diocletian, and they were again sought a:
an asylum by the Copts—who had become Christians, when driven
away by the Mussulman conquerors from their home at Medéenet
Haboo. Their present tenants are represented as being very poor,
and as retaining of Christianity little more than a ritual of the early
Church.
The courteous governor and the hospitable consul took leave of
us at a late hour on the night of the 19th, with good wishes for the
voyage we were about to resume. Our favorite English-speaking
donkey-boy, Youssef, petitioned us to take him with us to the
United States, but he depends on his vocation to support his wid:
owed mother. -We raised steam and cast off from the bank at day-
light, passed Edfou without stopping, but either our pilot was at
fault, or sand-bars had suddenly changed. We came to a dead stop.
Sultan Pacha, at that moment, coming down the river with his
ple
sm
spe
20(1
tho}
Cra
Egy
moq
Em
VD PHIL.
eamer aground.—The Ruins of
rprising Activity.—Its Airican
Cataracts of the Nile—A Mon.
it would be an interest-
» are found in small and
ristory is a touching one.
optie Christians from s
ey were again sought a:
Christians, when driven
their home at Medéenet
nted as being very poor,
than a ritual of the early
ble consul took leave of
with good wishes for the
vorite English-speaking
ke him with us to the
htion to support his wid:
bff from the bank at day-
either our pilot was at
We came to a dead stop.
own the river with his
RUINS OF ESNEH. 599
steamer of lighter draught, threw us a rope, and drew us over the
obstructions. So we fixed our stake on the bank at Esneh. It isa
small village, whose principal occupation it is to coal the govern-
ment steamers. There is here an Egyptian temple, which is
approached closely at high water. We, however, were obliged to
traverse a sandy plain, a mile wide, under the noonday sun. The
ruins, like those of Medéenet Haboo, were buried beneath an Arab
village, a part of which still remains. Only the great hall of the tem-
YOUSSEF AND HIS DONKF%,
plehas been excavated. Unfortunately, this chamber is discolored by
smoke; doubtless it was used ignominiously by the Arabs. The
spectator is struck by seeing on the ceiling a perfect table of the
zodiac, in which all the circumferential emblems are identical with
those of our own tables of the constellations, excepting Cancer, the
Crab, which resembles the scarabeeus or sacred beetle. The ancient
Evyptian ornamentation of the great hall has given place to more
modern embellishments—among them the shields of the Roman
Emperors Claudius. Domitian, Septimus Severus, Commodus, and
gai
—_ «wee %
600 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
Caracalla, The bass-reliefs and sculptures are in a low style of art, t
showing a great decline in sculpture and painting after the Persian l
and Greek conquest, but these faults are redeemed by the surpass. 8
ing beauty of the columns. They prove that, for a time at least, t
Egyptian architecture improved under the Grecian chisel. There d
are twenty-five of these columns, each with an exquisite capital, f
but no two alike. The lotus is the principal ornament of all of a
them, and is treated at every stage of its development. Doubtless tn
the religious ideas of the Egyptians underwent a modification, after d
the Grecian conquest, not unlike their principles of art. p
p
Ldfou, May 22d.—We reached Edfou last night, and were wel- by
comed by bonfires which extended a mile along the river-bank, Me
We hastened through the little village, to explore the celebrated
temple. Its excavation has becn one of the most successful achieve. |
W
ments of the Khédive. A dozen years ago, men dwelt, horses
travelled, bread was baked, and goods were sold, on its roof; and,
if the Arab ever planted trees around his dwelling, their roots
would have effected an entrance into the sacred chambers of thie
gocs. Like the temple at Dendera, it has an immense propyleun,
and a vast number of chambers. The whole, happily, is so well
preserved, that an architect finds no difficulty in reproducing the
original plan and arrangement. So Edfou serves as a key to many
ruined temples which, like Karnak, have been unintelligible. This
temple bears the signature of the architect, which, in justice to
him, we transcribe:
‘“ Ei-em-noter Orr-si-Putan.”
(Imoutiosis, Grandson of Phtah.)
Like the temple at Esneh, this one at Edfou is modern. It wis
begun by Ptolemy Philopater 204 B. c., and completed with decor.
tions only in 84..c. Our discontent, at finding ourselves in a tem:
ple only two thousand years old, was relieved when we went into
the sanctum sanctorum, and found a huge vault or chest cut out ot
one solid block of granite, and which was the depository of the
mysterious emblems of the temple which, in earlier and happier
"yi
“4s
‘ec in a low style of art,
nting after the Persian
leemed by the surpass
at, for a time at least,
Grecian chisel. There
h an exquisite capital,
pal ornament of all of
velopment. Doubtless
nt a modification, after
‘iples of art.
ast night, and were wel-
» along the river-bank.
explore the celebrated
most successful achieve-
ago, men dwelt, horses
‘e sold, on its roof; ani,
1ig dwelling, their roots
sacred chambers of the
an immense propyleun,
hole, happily, is so well
rulty in reproducing the
serves as a key to many
en unintelligible. This
bet, which, in justice to
TAU.”
htah.)
dfou is modern. It wis
d completed with decor
nding ourselves in a tem:
eved when we went into
vault or chest cut out ot
hs the depository of the
h, in earlier and happier
ASSOUAN, 601
£ 8 hy 1 , . s
i , had cov cred the is of the modern structure. This vault
srs a rip rhich cites that it was wr into i
" rete which cites that it was wrought into its present
ape at the quarry by order of King Nect:
shape at the quarry by order of King Nectanebus, who flourished
three hundred and fifty years before this temple was built. The
imensions of ‘Os Wi i
: nf rape of the temple are: width, one hundred and thirty-one
2ef : 8) 4 y tytuiaiwy ff; .
ee : - 1, two hundred and thirty-six feet. The ornamentations
f U 4 g : ee Oy yyy ’ Wal . . Ne $ ®
are u the same general character as those at Dendera, consisting
mainly of representations of sacred ceremonies and mythological
ry N 7 are : . YW ’ 5 . ?
devices. The work is not less elaborate, and the coloring, owing
perhaps to the excavation being new, is as fresh and bright as if
~ ‘ F " . e . . = ie
put on yesterday. Betts Bey’s illumination of this wonderful hall
P _ , o ae va os wal ‘ aA . eye,e
by blue lights was the most magnificent pyrotechnic exhibition that
can be imagined.
Assouan, May 22d.—The river above Edfou contracts to the
width of one thousand feet. The sedgy deserts become precipitous
banks, and you can step upon the rocks on either side from the
boat. So we notice that we are nearing the cataract. Though the
desert is now so solitary and desolate, the caverns, exeavatde in
terraces, indicate that, in some way, a vast population once filled
this narrow, forbidding strait. Many of the caves exhibit the
hieroglyphics associated by the ancicnts with their tombs. Others
seem to have been used as dwellings. One of them has, in a recess
a poor and coarse sculpture of their gods in one statue, but tho
faces are so mutilated that no expression can be detected. And
now, when we have come aboard again, the river has lost its monot-
onous and gloomy aspect. The Libyan Desert, rising into loftier
crests, crowds the river as below, but the Arabian Desert sinks and
retreats, and leaves at its base a strip of land covered in succession
with rich fields of water-melons, rice, Indian-corn, and orchards of
date-palms, alternating with groves of flowering acacias. The isl-
and of Elephantina, very small, divides the river, and shuts out
both its upper branches from the view. Elephantina is the only
green island which the Nile contains. The river on either side is
hidden by projecting promontories, and we come to rest in a calm
bay, which seems to be the fountain of the Nile. We sweep through
i
ie FD ob
602 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
this, and approach, on the eastern shore, the small town of Assouan,
built in the sands, and seeming to be a part of the desert itself.
Assouan is at the foot of the portage around the cataract, and
exhibits an activity as surprising as that at Cheyenne or Omaha,
But there is no resemblance in the articles of commerce or the
merchants, the trade or the traders, in any other country. Instead
of warehouses, there are open bins, filled with dates and other
tropical fruits, elephants’ teeth, ostrich-feathers, palm-oil, lion-sking
and tiger-skins, odoriferous and medicinal gums, the barks of trees
for bales, tomahawks with ebony handles, lances, and poisoned
arrows. Stores of rude pottery, and other cheap domestic utensils,
from Alexandria and Cairo, are gathered here in other bins, to
exchange for the southern products mentioned. The stores of
either kind are without locks or bars, or watchmen, and, if protected
at atl from the sun, it is only by awnings stretched above them,
All this merchandise is now awaiting the flood, which will allow
small boats to pass over the rocky ledges of the cataract. The little
harbor is filled with pretty vessels of light burden, among which
the gay dahabeah everywhere flaunts its striped lateen-sails. On
the brown mountain-top which overhangs the town are:scen the
fortifications of Arabian conquerors, earlier than Saladin. Though
deserted and neglected for so many centuries, they seem capable of
reconstruction with a little time and cost. But Assouan is rendered
even more interesting by the diversity and strangeness of its popula.
tion, than by its desert location, the verdant Elephantina, its quaint
shipping, and its barbaric commerce. No sooner do we pass the
Nubian border, than a different race from that of Lower Egypt
presents itself. The inhabitants are black, neither tawny nor olive,
but shiny black. A. few Arabs are seen, but they are manifestly
inferior, and servile to the Nubians; the habitations are African,
built of the palm, the bamboo, and the cane. The sand of the
desert is the floor, Assouan is more African even than Aden.
dut here, as elsewhere, superior races hold prominence in commerce.
Many of the merchants are Berbers,’ Abyssinians, and Libyans,
while the laboring population is gathered from the savage tribes
of interior Africa. These people are quite uncivilized, although
small town of Assouan,
of the desert itself.
round the cataract, and
| Cheyenne or Omaha,
1s of commerce or the
ther country. Instead
with dates and other
ers, palin-oil, lion-skins
ums, the barks of trees
, lances, and poisoned
sheap domestic utensils,
here in other bins, to
oned. The stores of
schmen, and, if protected
stretched above them.
flood, which will allow
the cataract. The little
t burden, among which
triped lateen-sails. On
the town are:seen the
than Saladin, Though
18, they seem capable of
But Assouan is rendered
trangeness of its popula-
Elephantina, its quaint
sooner do we pass the
n that of Lower Egypt
neither tawny nor olive,
ut they are manifestly
habitations are African,
ane. The sand of the
‘rican even than Aden.
rominence in commerce,
yssinians, and Libyans,
l from the savage tribes
te uncivilized, although
ANCIENT GRANITE QUARRIES. 69038
commercial habits have made them peaceful and docile. They
know as little of the world below Elephantina as they know of
their own history. They wonder at the decline of the innocent and
remunerative slave-trade, and still furtively pursue it against all
interdictions and remonstrance. The price of an African hand-
maid, in an Arabian family, is sixty dollars. Her children inherit
equally with those of the lawful wife.
We waited until sunset, and then, mounting camels, made our
way through narrow, circuitous, unpaved, sandy lanes, crowded on
either side by bazaars, coffee-houses, mosques, Coptic chapels, and
mud-houses, with barricaded doors and latticed windows, Emerg-
ing upon the desert, through the widest city gate ever seen, we
came into a Mohammedan cemetery, five or six miles in cireum-
ference. It is the only cemetery we have ever seen from which
every cheerful association of Nature is excluded. It has neither
tree, shrub, plant, nor flower—neither sod nor soil—but only the dry
sands of the desert, deposited by winds during thousands of years.
The graves are (or might be) excavated with the human hand, with-
out an implement. The excavation consists of removing so much
sand as will leave the dead body on a level with the surface of the
plain, and the sand is heaped upon it. Each grave is marked by a
small, rough stone, usually without inscription. Some families
have more ambitious monuments. They build a tomb above the
sand, open at the sides. Interment is made by removing the sand
beneath, and restoring it when the remains have been thrust in.
Travellers. say that the sirocco often uncovers the graves, rendering
the air pestilential, We were spared such hideous experiences.
Leaving the cemetery behind us, we rose some fifty or sixty feet
above a ledge of the desert, and etood in the ancient granite quar-
ries of Assouan. The plain is strewed with massive surface stones,
which covered the quarry, and were rolled down the hill-side by
some mechanism of more power than we can now conceive. Ata
height of five hundred feet above the river-bed, we found the
smooth bed of the quarry of red granite from which the walls of
the chambers of the Pyramids, and the columns of the Temples of
Memphis, Thebes, and Dendera, were taken. T'rom here, also, were
604 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
quarried the sarcophagi and statues found in every part of Egypt,
and all, or nearly all, of the obelisks which grace European capitals,
as well as Heliopolis, Luxor, and Karnak. It is almost enough to
make one fancy that the Egyptians were a Titanic race, when
standing in this quarry, and contemplating that, three thousand,
four thousand, five thousand years ago, they hewed, without the
aid of steam or gunpowder, the solid mountain into shapes of gran-
deur and ornament, with scarcely more time, labor, and cost, than
are now expended in framing smaller forms of wood! After con-
tinuing for four thousand years a scene of active industry, the quar-
ries became silent and solitary all at once. We understand there
is no record of the erection of any obelisk in Egypt subsequent to
the period of the Roman conquest. We left our uncomfortable
camels, and climbed up the sides of an obelisk, that had been exca-
vated and nearly hewn into shape when the quarry was abandoned,
and which has remained exactly in the same condition since, It
measures seventy feet in length. Except at the apex, detached
from the native rock on three sides, it is completely chiselled, and
ready for polishing. The holes in the rock, on either side, can be
seen, which received the wedges used in splitting off the external
masses. Werecalled here an inscription found on the great obelisk
at Karnak. It recites that the monument was excavated at these
quarries of Assouan, finished, conveyed to Karnak, znd erected on
its base there, all within the period of two hundred and ten days,
What was the intended destination of this obelisk at Assouan/
Why was it left unfinished? Probably an invasion ‘lemanded that
all subjects of the state should rush to its defence. It is alwaysa
sorry and a sad sight to contemplate any great work that has been
abandoned incomplete. We wonder that the people of the United
States can endure the sight of the unfinished monument of Wash-
ington at the capital. But it is infinitely more sad to see a ruin,
the construction of which was arrested by a blow that not only
arrested that work, but arrested forever the stream of national life.
It is with thoughts something like these that one looks over the
marble blocks which were just being chiselled to repair the Iorum
of Pompeii, when the city itself was buried in a night, by the ashes
—
hie
. every part of Egypt,
ace European capitals,
[t is almost enough to
a Titanic race, when
- that, three thousand,
ey hewed, without the
in into shapes of gran-
e, labor, and cost, than
of wood! After con-
tive industry, the quar-
We understand there
in Egypt subsequent to
left our uncomfortable
isk, that had been exca-
quarry was abandoned,
ne condition since. It
at the apex, detached
ympletely chiseled, and
, on either side, can be
litting off the external
nd on the great obelisk
was excavated at these
<arnak, and erected on
hundred and ten days.
is obelisk at Assouan é
nvasion emanded that
lefence. It is alwaysa
‘eat work that has been
ie people of the United
ed monument of Wash-
more sad to see a ruin,
a blow that not only
stream of national life.
hat one looks over the
bd to repair the Forum
in a night, by the ashes
PHILA, 605
from Vesuvius. Historians try to show us how such prodigious
labor was possible in ancient Egypt. They conjecture that the
Pharaohs were despots, 4nd that the quarries of Assouan were a
prison. But these conjectures are unsatistactory. Despotism and
penal imprisonment have at some time prevailed in nearly every
country on earth, but Egypt is the only country that has built
pyramids and excavated obclisks.
strongest in the earliest ages. These Egyptian monuments are tive
expressions of reverence to the gods. There will be no oceasica
hereafter for mankind to produce such gigantic utterances in stone.
Christian faith and reverence can express a higher and purer devo:
tion to the Creator by the use of types of lead and a printing-press.
The savants who accompanied Bonaparte’s army into Egypt re-
port that there were then two temples on the island of Elephantina
—one facing down the Nile, and called the “ Temple of the North ;”
one looking upward, and called the “ Temple of the South.” These,
together with a nilometer, have been entirely swept away by inun-
dations. There is still remaining there a statue of Osiris, with a
date inscribed on it three thousand one hundred years ago.
Devotional aftection was the
Phil, May 23d.—We left our boat, with the other shipping at
Assouan, at dawn this morning, and came, as usual, mounted on
donkeys and camels, through the desert, to this plaee—the upper
verge of the cataract. Our way was over rocky hills and through
equally desolate ravines, whose only shade is the naked, overhang-
ing mountain-sides ; nor is there on the whole way a single green
leat or blade of grass. An Austrian mission has erected a plain
and comfortable edifice here, on the bank of the river, eight miles
above Assouan, and facing Phils. This is the customary terminus
of the voyage of all travellers on the Nile, as it is of ours. We
find here a curious proof that the ancient Egyptians regarded a
voyage up the Nile as gratifying an achievement as it is esteemed
by us. The granite rocks here are covered with inscriptions, re-
citing their success in making the great voyage. Some were con-
tent with simply registering their names. William Freeman regis-
tered his name in the same modest way. One ambitious tourist
606 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
engraved himself, in ¢ntaglio, reverentially worshipping the gods
of the cataract! The same rocks, curiously enough, contain ac.
counts inscribed by Egyptians, by generals, princes, and kings, of
their successful expeditions against Ethiopia, The cataract of the
Nile has its parallel in many countries—the volume of a vast river
broken, as it descends to a lower level, by green islands and barren
rocks. Such are Sault Ste. Marie, the falls of St. Anthony, the falis
of the Mohawk, and many falls on the Upper Hudson and the Po.
PHILA,
tomac. But the cataract of the Nile has a grandeur surpassing all
these, in the stern setting of the beautiful picture in a framework
of impassable deserts. Out of the midst of the dashing torrent
rises the beautiful island of Phils. The whole island, a quarter of
a mile long, and scarcely more than two hundred feet wide, is
picturesquely crowned with graceful temples and colonnades. The
sites of these structures were chosen by artistic eyes. In this re
spect, Phils standsalone. Every colonnade and every gate-way was
evidently built with a view to excite the traveller’s imagination as he
worshipping the gods
y enough, contain ac-
princes, and kings, of
The cataract of the
volume of a vast river
een islands and barren
f St. Anthony, the tals
sy Hudson and the Po.
grandeur surpassing all
picture in a framework
of the dashing torrent
shole island, a quarter of
p hundred feet wide, is
es and colonnades. The
rtistic eyes. In_ this re
lc and every gate-way Wis
veller’s imagination as he
608 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
might approach the sacred island. The firm and lofty bases of the
temple seem like a solid wall encircling its entire area. The base,
at the same time, serves as a quay for the mooring of the boats ot
visitors, and affords them chambers to rest in before entering the
temple. The architecture of Phile is not, like all the ruins we
have seen, purely or chiefly Egyptian. The ancient Egyptians only
began it. It was completed by the Greeks after Alexander, who
were content to improve Egyptian models without destroying them
or substituting their own. ence there is a delicacy and grace of
execution in the ruins of Phils that is not seen in other Egyptian
temples. The ruins give us some interesting modern historical in-
formation. Near the close of the fourth century, as every one
reads, the Emperor Theodosius, of the Eastern Empire, issued an
edict at Constantinople, by which he proscribed and abolished the
ancient Kzyptian religion. Among the inscriptions in the temples,
recording the visits of travellers there, are those of priests of that
religion who performed here their rites in honor of Isis and Osiris
sixty years after the promulgation of the decree. There is a tablet
in the propyleum of the Temple of the East, on which is carefully
engraved :
“Tan 6 de la république, le 13 Messidor, une armée Francaise,
commandée par Buor.aparte, est descendue & Alexandrie; l’armée
ayant mis vingt jours aprés, les Mamelukes en fuite aux pyramides,
Dessaix, commandaut la premiére division les a poursuivi au-deld
des cataractes, ot il est arrivé le 13 Ventose, de l’an 7.” '
How curious that almost the only monument which the French
Republic of 93 has left is this one, which records a great forcign
achievement of a hero who defended it only to subvert it! How
prone unsophisticated nature is to exaggerate the marvellous!
Mariette Bey quotes a French traveller of the age of Louis XIV.
as saying that the thunders of the cataract of the Nile deafen the
1 Transtation.—“ On the 13th Messidor of the year 6 of the republic ” (July 8, 1799),
“the French army, commanded by Bonaparte, Janded at Alexandria. At the Pvr.
amids, twenty days later, the Mamelukes having been put to flight by the army, Dessaix
commanding the first division, pursued them above the cataract, where he arrived on the
13th Ventose of the year 7” (March 5, 1800).
and lofty bases of the
tire area. The base,
poring of the boats ot
n before entering thie
like all the ruins we
ncient Egyptians only
after Alexander, who
thout destroying them
delicacy and grace of
een in other Egyptian
y modern historical in-
entury, as every one
ern Empire, issued an
bed and abolished the
iptions in the temples,
hose of priests of that
onor of Isis and Osiris
ree. There is a tablet
t, on which is carefully
, une armée Francaise,
, Alexandrie; l’armée
n fuite aux pyramides,
les a poursuivi au-dela
de lan 7.” ?
nent which the French
records a great forcign
to subvert it! How
byate the marvellous!
he age of Louis XIV.
bf the Nile deafen the
f the republic ” (July 8, 1799),
t Alexandria, At the Pyr-
o flight by the army, Dessaix
pract, where he arrived on the
FERRY ON THE NILE, 609
inhabitants for miles around. Mr. Seward remembers to have seen
on an old English mapa picture of Niagara Falls, with a note under
it saying, “ These falls are a quarter of a mile high!” Taving
made these profound critical reflections, we descend the Grand
Quay and go on board a dahabeah, to make our way through the
foaming rapids and the roaring eddies and whirlpools to our Croco-
dile, which awaits us at Assouan, and at this moment an incident
occurs which is worth recording, if for no other reason than that of
its instructions in economy. We see a native man and woman
emerge from the magnificent classic colonnade at the water’s edge
of the island, plunge into the rushing river, and make their way
directly across to the Libyan coast. They have taken off all their
clothing and heaped it in solid parcels on their heads, while they
walk securely through the wild and dangerous rapids. This is, in-
deed, the customary form of ferriage on the Nile. It has often
amused us to see a river-boat, which has come up from Cairo
freighted with natives, stop, and, without boat or plank, deliver its
passengers in the middle of the river. The passenger puts his lug-
gage on his head, and leaps into the river, saying, philosophically
and cheerfully : “If it is my Aésmet” (fate), “Ishall perish ; if net,
I shall reach the bank.”
If we have turned our backs reluctantly upon the Mountains of
the Moon and the sources of the Nile, we must console ourselves
with the reflection that we have seen regions which neither Alex-
ander, nor Julius Cesar, nor Genghis Khan, nor Tamerlane, nor
apostolic prophet, nor Columbus, nor Napoleon, nor Magellan, nor
Vasco de Gaia, ever explored.
CHAPTER VIII.
LAST DAYS IN EGYPT.
The Vice-Consul’s Harem.—Kenneh and its Pottery.x—The Sugar of Egypt.—Memphis.—
Its Ruins.—The Downfall of Idolaters.—Again at Cairo.—Conversation with a
Pacha,—Alexandria.—Aspect of the City.—Interview with the Khédive.—Sir Henry
Bulwer.—Pompey’s Pillar.—The Khédive’s Yacht.—Concluding Reflections on Egypt.
Thebes, May 24th. We fastened here at Luxor, this afternoon.
Sultan Pachs, the governor, and the United States vice-consul, were
on the wharf to welcome us back. While Mr. Seward entertained
these former dignified personages on board, the vice-consul con-
ducted the ladies to his little harem. Uis domestic establishment,
coarse and plain, is in striking contrast with this loyal representa.
tive’s pretentious official residence, at which we were so sumptu-
ously dined on our way up the river. On reaching the door, the
ladies ascended, by a very narrow, steep, and not particularly clean
flight of stairs, to the house-top; where, it being after sunset, they
sat during their visit, without protection. The furniture of the
room consisted of a bed and two chairs. An African handmaid
was in attendance. Presently the wife of the consul, a slender.
middle-aged woman, came up the stairs, veiled, and neatly dressed
in deep black, with heavy silver bracelets and bangles. She re-
ceived our salutation timidly, remained standing, and presented
her three pretty, olive-skinned children—one boy and two gills.
The ladies turned to the consul and said, “ But you told us you had
but one child?” He answered, “TI have but one boy; we do not
Sugar of Egypt.—Memphis.—
Cairo.—Conversation with a
with the Khédive.—Sir Henry
yncluding Reflections on kgypt.
Luxor, this afternoon.
States vice-consul, were
ir. Seward entertained
1, the vice-consul con-
omestic establishment,
this loyal representa-
h we were so sumptu-
reaching the door, the
not particularly clean
being after sunset, they
The furniture of the
An African handmaid
the consul, a slender.
led, and neatly dressed
and bangles. She re-
anding, and presented
Ine boy and two gitls.
3ut you told us you had
tone boy; we do not
BENI-HASSAN, 611
count girls.” The mother entirely agreed with him, and expressed
her mortification, in Arabic, that two of the children should be so
perverse as to belong to the inferior sex! | This woman has no
responsibility except the care of her children. The visit, being one
of ceremony, ended with coffee, chibouques, and sherbets, brought
by the handmaiden from the consul’s t:ouse. We retire to rest by
the light of the Southern Cross, the last time that soon, if perhaps
ever, it shall spread its light for us, though we have many seas yet
to navigate, and many lands yct to explore, before we reach our
home.
Beni-Hassan, May 28th.—We steamed down the river from
Thebes on the morning of the 25th, having for the last sound there
the sharp report of the vice-consul’s musket firing a national salute ;
and, for the last sight, the flags of the Unite’ States, Brazil, and
Egypt, waving from a staff high above the columns, walls, and
obelisks of Karnak and Luxor. We stopped for coal at Kenneh, a
lively, commercial Arab town, and the seat of the manufacture of
the porous earthen pottery used throughout Egypt for cooling and
clarifying the Nile-water. Roads across the Arabian Desert ex-
tend this trade by caravans to Persia, and the banks of the Euphra-
tes and Tigris. European governments have consulates here,
which are filled by wealthy Arab merchants. The German consul,
of the same class, entertained us in a residence so stately that it
would not ill become a foreigner, resident in Cairo. We coaled
again at Siout, went ashore at Rodah, and visited the immense su-
gar refinery there, the private property of the Khédive. Sugar is
the principal staple of Upper Egypt, while Lower Egypt produces
none. The viceroy is the principal! producer and manufacturer
for the whole country. The cane is brought to Rodah in boats
from various plantations, which contain in the aggregate ninety
thousand acres. The machinery is of British nianufacture, and
equal to the best in Cuba. When we compare the extensive culti-
vation on the banks, and the activity of trade on the river, as we
approach Cairo, with the sterility and desolation of the banks at
the cataract, this return-voyage, down the Nile, seems to us like a
612 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
return from a sojourn in the “valley of the shadow of death” to
the land of the living. The deserts on either side, with their
mountain-crests, recede gradually from the banks; and the valley,
largely covered with date-orchards and sugar-cane, wears a green.
ness which shows that we have ieft the tropics behind us to come
again inte *.e temperate zone. Small as the range of manufacture
and local trade is, the inhabitants are intelligent and active, in
striking contrast to the people of the Upper Nile. Sultan Pacha,
with his steamer, has kindly acted as convoy to the Crocodile, and,
whenever we have stopped, we have shared the honors which a
simple and subjugated people show him. At every landing, boats
discharge their freights of delicious watermelons, as presents or for
taxes in kind, on his deck, and the finest of them soon find their
way to ours. Nothing could be more acceptable in this dry, hot
climate.
Memphis, Tuesday, May 30th.—Our last day on the Nile! The
downward voyage has been made without other accident than an
occasional running high and dry on sand-banks, from which we
were hauled off sometimes by our noisy Arab crew, sometimes by
our steady convoy. The Pyramids of Dashur, far distant from the
bank, though in full view from the river, then those of Sakkara
next seen, beckoned to us to stop and take a survey of ancient
Memphis. Our approach to Cairo was made known to us by the
grim towering points of Ghizeh.
A citizen of Chicago would think it labor lost in visiting this
renowned ancient capital. It isso soon done for. As we advance
inward from the valley of the Nile toward the desert, we pass some
irregular black knolls, which are covered with clumps of date-
palms. On the surface of these hillocks we saw, here and there,
not bowlders, but blocks of hewn granite, no one stone lying on
another. Occasionally the knoll, having been partially cut away
for agricultural purposes, reveals a heap of broken bricks. In a
sunken ditch, now dry, but which is filled by the Nile when at
flood, lies prostrate, with face downward, a monolith statue of Ia-
meses II., usually identified as the great Sesostris. Its whole
shadow of death” to
ther side, with their
anks ; and the valley,
r-cane, wears @ green-
ics behind us to come
» range of manufacture
Nigent and active, in
Nile. Sultan Pacha,
to the Crocodile, and,
d the honors which a
.t every landing, boats
ons, as presents or for
f them soon find their
ptable in this dry, hot
t day on the Nile! The
other accident than an
banks, from which we
rab crew, sometimes by
ur, far distant from the
then those of Sakkara
ke a survey of ancient
de known to us by the
hor lost in visiting this
ne for. As we advance
he desert, we pass some
with clumps of date-
e saw, here and there,
no one stone lying on
een partially cut away
hf broken bricks. In a
Vile when at
1 by the
monolith statue of Ra-
t Sesostris. Its whole
MEMPIIIS.
613
height was sixty fect. The stone is a flinty limestone. It was
nine in the morning when we arrived off the accepted site. The
bank is a plain six or seven miles wide, crossed by canals of irriga-
tion in all directions, and large portions of it are subject to annual
inundation. The current being very strong, we found neither
wharf nor anchorage, nor even a place for mooring. We, there-
fore, turned about and passed up the river to a convenient cove used
foraferry. Crossing the plain, we left behind us the river winding
between fertile plains; below us Beni-Hassan ; opposite, on the
right bank, a Coptic convent, and an abandoned line of military
signal-stations ; the view bounded on the north by Old Cairo and
the citadel, here only just visible. Two or three miles before us,
on the plain, a modern Egyptian town, with the Arabic name of
Myt-Rahyneh, nestling among dry sand-hills; in the distance the
Pyramids of Sakkara, seeming to cluster against the horizon with
those of Ghizeh. The efficiency of the Khédive’s government was
shown by the promptness with which, in compliance with a dis-
patch which Betts Bey sent from Beni-Hassan, twenty or thirty
men appeared, with chairs and donkeys, to meet us. We rested at
Myt-Rahyneh long enough to reorganize our train, und partake of
sherbet and coffee under some acacias, which protect the only weli
in the village, and then resumed our way across the level plain,
over cultivated fields, and crossing the canals on bridges fur a dis-
tance of four miles, when we reached the squalid hamlet of Sak-
kara.
It was near sunset when we embarked, leaving behind us for-
ever the city of Memphis—Memphis, founded by Menes, the home
of the authors of civilization ; the builders of the Pyramids, the
kings who knew, and the kings who knew not Joseph! Memphis,
whose sedgy bank was the cradle of Moses, whose council-chambers
heard the warnings of the prophet of Israel, and the denunciations
of the divine plagues! Memphis, from whose walls issued the
chariots and horsemen which were lost in the pursuit of the Israel-
ites through the waters of the Red Sea! As we reflect upon the
monuments we have seen to-day of the senseless worship of bulls,
birds, crocodiles, and hippopotami, the mockery alike of religion
40
ans,
oe ee
sires
sired
rey
Re 59
t%
48 j
bo x.)
le 4
tie Mo
Seca
ei
wer oesig
Ree
* »2
nN LD
6 i
re
- 8
5 4
th
G5 iD
ae
ee sc
oe
tee 39
gis oa
os ing,
aay
fe
614 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
and of knowledge, we wonder less than ever that the first and
chief instruction which Moses the deliverer conveyed to his people
was, “ Thou shalt have no other gods before me.” The time had
come when the world needed that command. Perhaps the expe.
rience of the proneness of mankind to disregard it may be the ex.
planation of the severity of the discipline by which it has pleased
the great Lawgiver of the Universe to enforce that command. Ile
has cut off the nations that have refused it :
“ Thus saith the Lorp God ; I will destroy the idols, and I will
cause their images to cease out of Noph’’ (Memphis) ; “and there
shall be no more a prince of the land of Egypt: and I will put a
fear in the land of Egypt.”
Cairo, May 31st.—We came to the wharf by moonlight, at ten
o'clock last night. Carriages were waiting to convey us through
the streets of Cairo, of which every mosque was illuminated, and
merry crowds of natives were assembled at the fountains and
shrines. It was the birthday of Mohammed—the day on which
the pilgrims returned from Mecca are publicly received by the
Khédive, and honored with religious ceremonies at the mosques.
We passed at the base of the citadel the public square, where, a
few hours before, the sheik of the Great Mosque, mounted on a
heavy charger, had ridden over a long pavement of prostrate devo-
tees, without inflicting, as they allege, a fracture, a bruise, or even
a pain. At eleven o’clock we were again at our residence in the
Kasr-Nudzha after an excursion of nineteen days, during which no
danger was experienced, no disappointment incurred, and no want,
either of comfort or luxury, unsupplied.
Mr. Seward’s first desire this morning was an audience of the
Khédive, in which he might make his acknowledgments to his
princely host for this rich experience. But they have politics in
Egypt as elsewhere. The Khédive went yesterday morning to
Alexandria. Speculation is rife as to the reason of his journey,
and as to the probable length of his absence—some saying that he
is summoned to Constantinople, where he may be poisoned, and
the most hopeful agreeing that he will not return to Cairo for
1 that the first and
nveyed to his people
ne.”’ The time had
Perhaps the expe-
urd it may be the ex:
which it has pleased
>that command. Ile
y the idols, and I will
[emphis) ; “and there
ypt: and I will put a
f by moonlight, at ten
to convey us through
e was illuminated, and
at the fountains and
»d—the day on which
blicly received by the
onies at the mosques,
public square, where, a
Mosque, mounted on a
ent of prostrate devo-
eture, a bruise, or even
t our residence in the
days, during which no
incurred, and no want,
ras an audience of the
cknowledgments to his
t they have politics in
yesterday morning to
reason of his journey,
e—some saying that he
may be poisoned, ant
ot return to Cairo for
A FREE CONVERSATION, 615
several weeks. HHe-was attended by his harera and the Princess
Validé, who, gossip says, always makes his coffee for him on his
journeys, and gives it to him with her own hands, to guard against
possible attempts at poisoning. He has kindly lett instructions for
receiving Mr, Seward at Alexandria,
June 4th.—A very free conversation between a distinguished
pacha and Mr. Seward at dinner to-day disclosed a discouraging po-
litical situation in Egypt. The pacha thinks that foreign states
ought to discuss directly with the Egyptian Government alt ques-
tions of mutual interest, instead of treating with the Turkish Gov-
ment at Constantinople. Mr. Seward said: “The Egyptian Gov-
errment must go deeper into the matter of international law than
this. At present, the relations of Egypt, as well as of the whole
Turkish Empire, to the Christian nations are provisional, somewhat
of the nature of those established by an armistice on the battle-
field. The Mohammedan states have neglected or refused to ac-
cept the laws of nations as matured by the Christian states. The
European states consent to remain at peace with the Mohammedan
states, but only on the condition that the latter snall exercise no
jurisdiction or authority over the persons or property of subjects
of Christian countries. Every foreigner, therefore, residing in
Egypt, whether English, French, German, Greek, or American, in-
vokes in his own behalf the intervention of his own government,
and submits himself only to its judgments when complaint is
made against him by the Egyptian Government. Foreigners pay no
taxes, and render no military services ; and yet trade, art, and manu-
factures, such as you have, seem almost exclusively in their hands.
This condition is unsatisfactory to the Khédive and to the states-
men of Egypt. I learn this, not only from your own conversation,
but from the fact that the Khédive has organized a legislature, and
has instituted negotiations with the Western powers for the estab-
lishment of a mixed foreign and native judiciary, to have charge
of questions in which foreigners are concerned. But ‘I do not
learn that the Ottoman Porte, to which Egypt is a tributary, sym-
pathizes at all with the Khédive in his very reasonable aspirations.
Rem”
616 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
The reason probably is, that the Ottoman Porte finds its best se-
curity against foreign dangers in its compliance with the will of the
dominant European powers. On their part, these powers cannot
maintain a policy of protection toward Turkey except by insisting
upon the existing stipulations. It does not become me to speculate
here on questions which affect the relations of Egypt to the Turk-
ish Empire. Iam here the guest of both, but I may be allowed to
say that what I think Egypt most needs is the opening of the coun-
try to Europeans and Christians for cultivation, and a compulsory
system of educaticn of the whole mass of children of both sexes,
native and foreign, by which, in no very long time, Egypt will raise
a class who will be capable of carrying on trade, banking, manufac.
tories, internal improvements, and military instruction, as well as
of exercising the other occupations which are now chiefly filled by
foreigners. The system of education thus to be established ought
to be built up as fast and as far as possible on the principles of the
Western nations. Until this is done, I see little hope for the
emancipation of Egypt from its double thraldom ; first, to the Otto-
man Porte; and, second, through the dependency of the Ottoman
Porte, to the Christian nations of Europe. This prospect. will
seem to you distant, but rivalries between the European states are
inevitable, and I think that you will find some one or more of them
always willing to favor measures which tend to the advancement
of civilization in Egypt, and her admission into the family of inde-
pendent nations.”
Alevandria, June 5th.—The Khédive’s consideration contin-
ues. Leaving the pleasant Kasr-Nudzha, at eight o'clock in the
morning, we crossed the Delta in a special train, attended, as on
our entrance into Cairo, by Betts Bey and the United States con-
sul-general. What need is there to say here that just below Heli-
opolis, while yet in the traditional land of Goshen, we crossed the
Damietta branch of the Nile; that the Delta spreads out here to the
width of a hundred miles, so that, for the first time since our arrival
in Egypt, we lose sight both of the Arabian Desert and of the des:
ert of Libya; that we crossed, tower cown, the Rosetta branch of
‘te finds its best se-
e with the will of the
these powers cannot
y except by insisting
come me to speculate
f Egypt to the Turk-
t I may be allowed to
, opening of the coun-
yn, and a compulsory
ildren of both sexes,
time, Egypt will raise
de, banking, manufac.
instruction, as well as
- now chiefly filled by
> be established ought
1 the principles of the
se little hope for the
liom ; first, to the Otto-
dency of the Ottoman
. This prospect. will
he European states are
e one or more of them
d to the advancement
nto the family of inde-
consideration contin:
st eight o'clock in the
train, attended, as on
the United States con-
e that just below Heli.
}yoshen, we crossed the
spreads out here to the
st time since our arrival
Desert and of the des
the Rosetta branch of
SITE OF ALEXANDRIA. 617
the Nile, and that, as we approached the Mediterranean, we had a
view of the Mahmoud Canal, which earries the inland trade of
Alexandria; and that later we traversed the shore of the now shal-
low Lake Meeris, thousands of years ago the bed of the Nile?
This vast and fertile plain, while it exhibits the usual assiduous
industry of the fellahs, at the same time shows some approximation
toward European customs and manners.
The site of Alexandria is naturally dry, stern, and sterile, as
forbidding as the deserts which form on either side of the Upper
Nile. But with the growth of commerce, in the course of two
thousand years, this forbidding African coast has assumed a cheer-
ful aspect. Irrigation has produced here rich gardens, groves, and
orchards. All the eminences, within the range of vision, are sur-
mounted by windmills, and the approaches to the city in every
direction are adorned with villas, in which Italian taste is pleas-
antly combined with the Oriental. On our right, towers the tall,
dark shaft of Pompey’s pillar. .
The Khédive’s military staff received Mr. Seward at the station,
and attended him to the //étel P Angleterre, placed at his disposal
by direction of the Government. On our way, Mr. Seward re-
marked the great improvements which have taken place since he
was here in 1859, and pointed out the catacombs of the ancient
Egyptians in the high embankment, which have been exposed by
the cutting of streets directly through and over them. Our hotel
fronts the great public square, which on either side is lined with
palatial residences in the European style. It seems as if we had
already entered Europe, and left Egypt behind us. <A throng of
fashionably-dressed Europeans are promenading, and French and
nglish equipages are frequent in the streets. The Italian opera
demands our immediate attendance on the opposite square, and
every thing shows us that at last, after ten months’ travel among
the semi-barbarous nations of the East, we have at last reached a
gay though exotic European city.
June 6th.—A political day. Mr. Seward, this morning, had a
parting audience of the Khédive in his palace, on the island of Pha-
ella
aw *
tS t £22 tet
; es
ieee
-_
618 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
ros, facing the sea. His highness evidently regards Alexandria as
a provincial residence, and gratifies the people with a greater dis-
play of state pomp and ceremony than he customarily indulges in
at Cairo. The palace-gates were guarded, and its courts graced
with battalions of fine troops. The Khédive received Mr. Seward
with warm congratulations on his return, and made many kind
inquirics about his voyage up the Nile, which, at so late a season,
he had regarded with grave apprehensions. He hoped that, while
impressed by the wonderful antiquities of the country, Mr. Seward
would carry away from it a conviction that it is advancing in the
path of Western civilization as fast as under the circumstances
could be expected. He desired to know whether any thing remained
that he could do to render Mr. Seward’s stay at Alexandria agree-
able. Mr. Seward toid him there was nothing, but that he would
ask one parting favor, in addition to all the kindnesses he had re-
eecived. The Khédive promised to grant it before it was asked,
Mr. Seward said, “ Betts Bey has been indefatigab!2 in the care and
attention which he has bestowed upon us, but his service to your
highness is so diligent and constant that he never finds an oppor-
tunity for recreation. I learn from him that he has never seen Pal-
estine, whither I am going. He is a Christian, as I am, and a
pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre, once in his life, would make him
no more incapable of official service in a Mohainmedan court. He
has not suggested a desire to accompany me, nor have I apprised
him of my intention to make this request, but I shall esteem it a
last and great favor, if you will direct that he may accompany me
to Jerusalem.”
* Granted at once,” said the Khédive. Betts Bey deserves it,
and pilgrimage to holy places cannot but make us all better men,
whatever may be our religious belief.”
Engaging Mr. Seward to advise him of his health and safety in
the further progress of his journey, and expressing an earnest de-
sire to visit him some time in the United States, the Khédive shook
hands with Mr. Seward, and the latter took his leave. Arms were
presented as he retired and joined his party at the palace-gates.
Thence Mr. Seward proceeued to pay a visit to Lord Dalling, late
rds Alexandria as
vith a greater dis-
marily indulges in
its courts graced
eeived Mr. Seward
made many kind
at so late a season,
e hoped that, while
ountry, Mr. Seward
is advancing in the
» the circumstances
any thing remained
t Alexandria agree-
x, but that he would
ndnesses he had re-
before it was asked.
gab!2 in the care and
t his service to your
rever finds an oppor:
e has never seen Pal-
tian, as I am, anda
life, would make him
unmedan court. He
nor have I apprised
it I shall esteem it a
may accompany me
setts Bey deserves it,
ce us all better men,
5 health and safety in
ssing an earnest de-
18, the Khédive shook
s leave. Arms were
y at the palace-gates,
to Lord Dalling, late
POMPEY’S PILLAR. 619
)
Sir Henry Bulwer, who is isi
s no vis , :
; y ) Ah new ONS visit to Egypt, and, like Mr.
Seward, a guest of the Khédive. He has hi i i
i: ; Wes as his residence in a villa
on the canal, outside of the city-gates. This interview w
nleasant one. Sir H 3 Hei
pleasal ; ir Henry Bulwer was the British minister at
Washington during the administration of President Tay] } 5
aylor, when
Mr. Seward was firs ‘j i i ee
rie ‘ as first entering upon his senatorial term. A cordial
riendshl len grey Te i
a grew up between them, in consequence of their
mutual efforts to secure the so-called “Clayton-Bulwer Treaty,”
: Js 7s e ’
which, with a view to transcontinental communication across the
Isthmus, stipulate i -
; , sti] d the independence of the Central-American re-
publics. The two statesmen compared notes very fully on the
attitudes of their respective Governments toward each other dur
t
Ad <n, Sent
be : B® pan egeeie
POMPEY'S PILLAR,
620 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
ing the late civil war in the United States, and the late British
ambassador expressed his satisfaction at the result of the conflict,
as Mr. Seward did his hope for the firm establishment of the cor-
dial friendship between the two nations. Lord Dalling scems so
confirmed an imvalid, that Mr. Seward asked, after leaving his
lordship, which of the two seemed most shattered with age and
infirmity.
Pompey’s pillar, though at a distance it seems perfect, is gradu.
ally succumbing to the ravages of time. Why does not the British
Government remove the fallen “Cleopatra’s Necdle,” which Me.
hemet Ali presented to it? London would be none the worse for
such an embellishment. If they shrink from the task of removing
it, why not restore the great ruler’s gift to his successor? We are
sure that Ismail Pacha would make no delay in raising it on its
ancient pedestal in Alexandria, or even restoring it to its earlier
place at Heliopolis. Egyptian obelisks, thirty-three hundred ycars
old, are certainly too valuable, in modern times, to be buried in
the sand. They tell an amusing tale concerning this obelisk here,
An ambitious Alexandrian bought the land on which it lies, to
build upon. He cannot build without removing te obelisk. IIc
has three difficulties about removing it: first, it belongs to the
British Government ; second, it would cost more than the land is
worth to remove it; third, he has no right to place it anywhere
else. They say he walks up to look at it every Sunday, and study
the problem, which still remaius unsolved.
June Tth.—The American military officers of the Khédive’s ser.
vice, in the magnificent gold-laced uniform of che Egyptian army,
called on Mr. Seward en masse, and it was a great satisfaction to
him to find one place, in going round the world, where the Ameri.
can agent, political or religious, expresses his entire content with
the government of the country he resides in.
We have looked up and down the Mahmond Canal, as well as
through the harbor of Alexandria, without finding the famous barge
of Cleopatra. The most ancient vessel we have found is the
Ariadne, Captain Marryat’s vessel, on which he wrote “ Jacob
and the late British
result of the conflict,
blishment of the cor-
rd Dalling seems so
ed, after leaving his
uttered with age and
ems perfect, is gradu.
y does not the British
. Necdle,” which Me.
ye none the worse for
the task of removing
is successor? Weare
ry in raising it on its
oring it to its earlier
y-three hundred ycars
imes, to be buried in
ning this obelisk here.
on which it lies, to
ring tie obelisk. Ie
rst, it belongs to the
nore than the land is
to place it anywhere
ry Sunday, and study
s of the Khédive’s ser-
bf che Egyptian army,
a great satisfaction to
rld, where the Ameri-
is entire content with
houd Canal, as well as
ding the famous barge
e have found is the
ch he wrote “ Jacob
PORT SAID.
Faithful,” and which is lying in the harbor, dismantled, and used
asa store-ship. Another historical naval relic in Alexandria Bay
is the ship Resolution, in which Captain Cook made his last voyage,
This hulk, of four hundred tons, now black and brown, is used as 2
coaling-ship by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers.
We have just returned from a visit to the Khédive’s yacht—a
sca-palace, moving with stcam-engines and side-whcels ; its bur-
den, three thousand tons; its specd, seventeen miles an hour: its
armament, cight guns; its naval crew, four hundred and fifty men ;
its staircases, of silver; its floors, covered with Persian and Turkish
carpets; its windows and beds, draped with satin brocade; its im-
mense saloons, hung with mirrors, pictures, and chandeliers, the
finest that Paris could produce, and furnished with modern, lavish,
dazzling «;lendor. What would not Plutarch have said to this?
With this ship Cleopatra could not only have brought Mark Antony
sifely away from Actium, but she could have won the battle for
him, which would have been better, and could have entertained
him more sumptuously even than in her famous barge.
Alexandria, founded by the Great Conqucror, whose name it
bears, after his death supplanting Memphis under the sway of the
Ptolemies, after its conquest by Julius Casar emulating Rome
itself, and later becoming the school of Christianity in the East,
then eclipsed by Constantinople, and still later subjugated by the
Mussulman caliphs, broken down by their successors and restored
by Mchemet Ali, still remains a great commercial city. It is the
cntrepot of European commerce for Egypt and India. We are now
to see it undergo a still further trial. Will it be superseded by
Port Said, at the mouth of the Suez Canal?
Port Said, June 9th.—Leaving Alexandria yesterday at four
o'clock, we resumed our voyage, always in sight of the Egyptian
coast. The bright light of Pharos reminded us that it was here
that the humane institution of this form of beacon for navigators
had its origin, in a structure on the same spot, deemed so remark-
able for its majesty and beauty by the ancients, as to be accepted
by them as one of the “seven wonders of the world.”
ae ee |
a.
Kanno, we ie i a
ome
os
622 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
A customary expression of regret that the Alexandrian Library
was lost to the world, led Mr. Seward to say that, perhaps, it is not
a total loss after all. Nine-tenths of all the books which are written
in the world are, more or less, transcripts of others that have been
written before. A great library is generally only a store-house of
material for new books. It would be strange, indeed, if, one way
or another, any of the ideas which were recorded in the millon
volumes of the Alexandrian Library are not now extant in other
books. Soa library lost is like the light of Pharos which was lost
—but not so utterly lost that it cannot be replaced.
In the course of the night we passed Rosetta, after Alexandria,
the chief port of entry of the Delta. A few hours later, rounding
easily and quietly into the smooth but capacious artificial harbor of
Port Said, we threw over an anchor, an experience which seciied
new to us, after our three weeks of tying to stakes on the banks of
the Nile.
The superintendent ot the Suez Canal, desirous that Mr. Seward
should examine the work at this terminus, as he had at the other,
kindly put a smal! steamer at our service, and, embarking on this
vessel with Mr. Page, United States consul, we made an excursion
of ten miles through this part of the canal, which flows in a deep’
channel, between high embankments faced with artificial stone,
and is built through the middle of the shallow salt-lake Menzaleh.
It seemed to us that human patience and energy have never been
so severely tasked as in raising these firm and solid embankments
upon the oozy bed which had been saturated and soaked with the
slimy flood of the Nile, from a period, perhaps, earlier than the
beginning of the human race.
Port Said seems quite American. The site of the little town,
so recently recovered from the sea, is plready divided and sub.
divided into streets and squares, and the universal topic of con-
versation is the eligibility of and price of city-lots. There is a
yet little indication of internal trade, but the repairing of shipping,
transshipment of passengers, and coaling of vessels, afford protitable §
occupation to a population of ten thousand, among whom are found
some Germans, some Italians, but chiefly immigrants from the is
E.
e Alexandrian Library
that, perhaps, it is not
ooks which are written
others that have been
ly only a store-house of
ige, indeed, if, one way
ecorded in the million
ot now extant in other
- Pharos which was lost
eplaced.
osetta, after Alexandria,
,w hours later, rounding
sious artificial harbor of
xperience which seciied
o stakes on the banks of
lesirous that Mr. Seward
as he had at ‘he other,
, and, embarking on this
il, we made an excursion
ul, which flows in a deep’
ed with artificial stone,
allow salt-lake Menzaleh.
energy have never been
1 and solid embankments
ated and soaked with the
erhaps, earlier than the
e site of the little town,
tready divided and sub.
universal topic of con
f city-lots. There 1s &
the repairing of shipping,
{ vessels, afford profitable
}, among whom are found
y immigrants from the 's
ORIGIN OF TIlE EGYP.!ANS. 623
lands of the Levant. We dined with the consul, and walked tl
the sandy streets, under a burning sun. 7 error
Whence came the Egyptian people? How was it that they
erected and maintained so great and flourishing a state, construct:
ing vaster and more enduring monuments than any other portion
of the human race, and why after these marvellous achievements
did they entirely cease to have a national of aie Th, as
as great mysteries to the dwellers in Egypt now as they cea ee
We have already mentioned that an Arab told us that oo P ris ‘ id
and the Sphinx were the creation of genii in a single ante A
al © ne ] = ;
is as us at Pane us, as he surveyed the ruins,
e people who raised these wonderful temples and
excavated these tombs? Whence did they come, and ale ay
have they gone?”” Weare not inclined to aneepl iio idea sh
the old Egyptians were like the Copts. The Copts of the os
ent day are men of dark skin, while all the statuary and ane
ings which so much excite our interest invariably sea wee
describe the Egyptians as “red men.” Certainly they ae neith ;
negroes, nor Hindoos, nor Europeans—neither blacks nor its
like the blacks and whites of to-day. Doubtless, in the sstrineabal
period, some tribes from the west of Asia, Arabia, perhaps Meso-
potamia and Syria, made their way into the valley of the Nile a
instituted society there some centuries before the visit of ae yh
aud his brethren. Isolated there, and yet exposed to invasion am
Libya and Ethiopia, as well as from Arabia, these éibibe would
naturally consolidate themselves into a nation. Thus consolidated
ie ¢ 9
possessing a soil of unequalled fertility, they perfected and main-
tained Egypt as the great state of its time, for a period of several
thousand years. During this period they first conquered and then
From this mixture probably descended the Copts, an
inferior race duri > glory of Egy
ce during the glory of Egypt, but who nevertheless
ulhered longer to its religion and arts than any other part of the
population.
It is much easier to see how the Egypti ished
easier to see how the Egyptian nation perished than
how it originated. They perfected their work ; they produced a
624 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
religion which in all ages seems to have been the first need of man.
kind, a state which was the second, science the third, and had com.
merce, literature, and arts, adequate to their own wants, if they
had remained isolated. But, by the time this was done, Assyria,
Persia, Syria, including Phoenicia, and especially Greece, had
pushed inquiry further, and had reached much higher results,
They established religions, states, commerce, and arts, which, al-
though in modern times they have all been found imperfect, were
nevertheless more solid and effective than those of the Egyptians,
The Egyptian system came into conflict successively with those new
and better ones. The work of destruction which the Assyrians
and Persians began was not stayed by their Greek and Roman sue.
cessors, and the Mohammedan invaders in the seventh and eighth
centuries, with their policy of conquest and propagandism by the
sword, completed the ruin of Egypt by a work of unsparing deso.
lation.
If there is any one fact in natural science that seems to us more
mysterious than another, it is that on some mountain-top, or in some
remote valley far away from and far above the everlasting ocean,
we pick up a slate-stone in our path, and, breaking it, we find
within the distinct fossil imprint of a shell-fish of a species un-
known, or perhaps extinct. It is just so with ancient Egypt; it
had a civilization which seems to have had no prototype, and can
have no reproduction.
B07
n the first necd of man-
the third, and had com-
cir own wants, if they
this was done, Assyria,
especially Greece, had
1 much higher results,
ree, and arts, which, al-
1 found imperfect, were
those of the Egyptians,
eessively with those new
yn which the Assyrians
y Greek and Roman sue.
the seventh and eighth
nd propagandism by the
work of unsparing deso-
ice that seems to us more
‘mountain-top, or in some
e the everlasting ocean,
nd, breaking it, we find
ell-fish of a species un-
with ancient Egypt; it
d no prototype, and can
CHAPTER IX.
JERUSALEM.
4 Levantine Coasting-Steamer.—Th: “reen Fields of Sharon,—Jaffa.—Ramleh,—Lydda,
—Rural Population.—First Vow ©* Jerusalem.—Mr, Seward's Reception.—The
Sultan’s Firman.--Church of the FP + Sepulchre —Religious Intolerance. —Mount
Calvary.—The Via Doiorosa,--. he Mosque of Omar.—The Mosque El-Aksa.
Jaffa, June 8th.—The e'.venth month of our voyage of circum-
navigation opens upor us in Palestine. A Levantine coasting-
steamer presents us witi another peculiar phase of travel. Except
our party, there are neither Americans, nor English, nor Europeans.
All are natives of the towns of Syria, Palestine, the Greek islands,
and Asia Minor. They are, in fact, a reproduction ot the hetero-
geneous multitude whom Peter addressed at Jerusalem on the day
of Pentecost, as far as the classifications of modern geography will
allow :
“ Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Meso-
potamia, and in Judea, and Cappadocia, in Pontus, and Asia, Phry-
gia, and Pamphylia, in Egypt, and in the parts of Libya about Cy-
rene, and strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Ara-
bians.”
After being dazzled almost to blindness by the reflection of a
tropical sunlight from the glaring sand of the desert, it is gratefully
Mr. Sew-
ard, who sojourned here a week under quarantine in 1859, indicated
from the deck the convent made forever historical by Bonaparte’s
refreshing to look out upon the green fields of Sharon.
li i
Hilt i hi
iki ia
Hil | i Wi
yi
A
Ai
rb |
an WW
i Mi
Hl Tin
it
: Mh) |
i
HAN ih
iit
AA iil ii il
JAFFA AND RAMLEIL,
627
alleged poisoning of his sick and disabled soldiers to prevent their
falling into the hands of the Turks. He pointed out also the house
and grounds which are shown to travellers as the house of Simon
the tanner, and a rock into which has been inserted a large ring,
asserted to have been used for two very different purposes: the
one for chaining Andromeda, and the other for holding Noal’s
Ark in its place until he was ready to embark on his extraordinary
eruise.
Jaffa, though not after the European taste, is, nevertheless, a
handsome town, covering a rocky cliff, and overhanging the
We cast anchor half a mile from shore, for there is no harbor,
sea,
and
our eyes were immediately greeted with a sight of the “stars and
stripes” floating over a beautiful green suburb, two miles outside
the walls of Jaffa, and our cars with the intelligence that it was the
« American colony.”
A boat came promptly off the shore and put
on deck Mr. Benjamin Finkelstein, an aftaché of the consulate at
Jerusalem, who delivered to Mr. Seward a congratulatory letter
from Mr. Beardsley, the consul there. Mr. Finkelstein was accom-
panied by his own cavass, and also by an aide of the Turkish gov-
ernor of Jaffa. Although the breakers were running high, we
were transferred without danger or inconvenience on board a na-
tive surf-boat, and with much skill buoyantly carried over a rolling
sea near the shelving beach of the American colony. Tere the
boatmen carried us severally on their shoulders, and our feet were
safely planted on the Syrian shore. Detachments of Turkish cav-
alry and infantry received Mr. Seward, as a guest of the Turkish
Government, with martial music and military honors. Forming
an escort, they conducted us, through orange-orchards hedged with
cactus, to the centre of the so-called American settlement.
Ramleh, June 9th.—Our progress, in ascending to Jerusalem,
was in manner very like to that in which we ascended from Peking
to the Great Wall of China. It was conducted by Betts Bey, of the
civil service of the Khédive of Egypt, assisted by Mr. Finkelstein,
and their authority was supported by the cavass of the United
States consulate at Jerusalem, dressed in the most. elaborate and
—— «anew %
nae, oe a
628 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
extravagant Turkish uniform, armed with a silver staff, like that of
a drum-major, three cimeters, and pistols innumerable, of various
sizes, in belt and saddle-bow. Tach beast was attended by a driver
aud a leader. The governor, with a large mounted escort, which
he called a “ guard of honor,” attended us through the streets, out
of the gates, and through the orange-groves of tle suburbs to the
wells of Yastr, on the open plain of Sharon. At this place, the
governor and his troops took their leave, a smaller mounted guard
taking its place, and we proceeded to Ramleh.
Toward the end of the ride, our guides pointed out on our left
Lydda, which, although the Greeks tried to christen it Diospolis,
has retained its name and identity through all revolutionary changes,
from the time when “Peter came down also to the saints which
dwelt in Lydda, forasmuch as Lydda was nigh to Joppa,” and
“found a certain man named Atneas, which had kept his bed cight
years, and was sick of the palsy. And Peter said unto him, A‘neas,
Jesus Christ maketh thee whole: arise and make thy bed. And
he arose immediately.”
Arriving at Ramleh at eight o’clock, or just at dark, Mr. Seward
was received by the governor of that town, with a guard of honor,
and, having designated a Latin convent as the lodging he preferred,
was graciously introduced by the governor to the Franciscan
superior of the house. We were very weary. One of the brothers
with much alacrity showed us to clean, comfortable rooms, and
spread a generous supper. The superior, a handsome, educated
Spaniard, manifestly uninformed of the political occurrences of the
day, conversed with us at table, and expressed a hope that the
luxuries which were prepared for us were satisfactory, but declined
to participate, because they are forbidden to him, Such monasteries
as this are found dispersed throughout the Holy Land. They were
founded at an early date by Christian charities in Europe, to
afford shelter and comfort to the pilgrims of the “Vest. Deiig
endowed with lands, and conducted with great frugality, the com-
munities are now self-sustaining. There being no good public
inns in the country, these monasteries entertain travellers in a
simple and comfortable manner, and receive, when the traveller
Iver staff, like that of
numerable, of various
s attended by a driver
nounted escort, which
irough the strects, out
of the suburbs to the
n. At this place, the
smaller mounted guard
h.
pointed out on our left
. christen it Diospolis,
| revolutionary changes,
so to the saints which
; nigh to Joppa,” and
had kept his bed eight
said unto him, AZneas,
d make thy bed. And
just at dark, Mr. Seward
, with a guard of honor,
he lodging he preferred,
nor to the Franciscan
ry, One of the brothers
comfortable rooms, and
, a handsome, educated
litical occurrences of the
ressed a hope that the
satisfactory, but declined
him, Such monasteries
Tloly Land. They were
charities in Europe, to
ns of the West. Being
great frugality, the com-
being no good public
ntertain travellers in a
eive, when the traveller
JERUSALEM.
G2!)
leaves, such gratuity as he pleases to giv
saeinnde - Travel : ases to give, although they make no
‘ e re >) , x16 ~ X v .
ii diets A ; ers generally pay very cheerfully to the superior
: se of the convent, a sum not less than similar e +.
ment would cost at a hotel. simular entertain-
Jerusalem, June 10th.—We rose with the dawn thi i
and, having received coffee and a blessing from er ‘d ta
ers at the monastery, we walked, with the aid of ee ene
the few quiet streets of Ramleh. It seems tl t ne it ee
ment of more than five thousand seas for ae econ
attain a state of society in which sone who erie ee eae
dwell in safety and comfort, in rural localities It ase mie oe
England and in the United States that this sce “~ hee ti
been reached, and much less perfectly in cece .
United States. In whatever country we have ne 7 sant
solitude in the rural districts, the feraiholne cee il a ee
tor residing for security in some neighboring seg ies
city, and the laborers clustering around fea, iets Aa a <
says he found the case the same in Mexico, with se tl : ihe .
dians in that country, cultivating the ric oat ants far a
| antiy g the richest soil and enjoying the
most benign skies in the world, but dwelling in n ns ve
ne And, even among the Indian nites Gt ne cata
a who ive ‘by the chase and by the fisheries eee
she alone. It is strikingly so in Palestine. It seems to have
known no peace and no rest, at least since the time of Selotigi:
| No view is more unique than that of Jerusalem as you a ‘ Y fic
it from the west. You look not so much at it as into it ae
it. Though situated on a mountain-top, it is surrounded ie filer
mountains: on your right, the mountains of Judea e whi 4 ce
stand 3 om your left, the Mount of Olives; and far eon fe
mountain-desert, at the foot of which the Jordan ee tis ] ‘ : ¢
way to the Dead Sea. Our first surprise was that a6 ean ee
should be 80 small. But this diminutiveness is itself a on Y. :
see in its entire circuit the lofty wall, with its beantiful , a
Within the wall, clustering, but not crowded, you see erate
8 rariati ae 2
hade or eee the white roofs, balustrades iomes, 2nd minsrets
My SHALE Sek hoe aGle
EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
of lofty palaces, and majestic churches and mosques. Though not
especially conversant with the modern history and geography of
the city, we had no difficulty in distinguishing the recently-renewed
and magnificent dome which protects the Holy Sepulchre. Wy»
also recognized, by its situation and its gorgeous though faded
dome, the Mosque of Omar, which now crowns Mount Moriah,
and stands upon the site of the ancient Temple of Solomon. If
one knew no more of the Gospel than what he recalls of childhood’s
lessons, he could not mistake either the Plain of Bethlehem or the
Mount of Olives. Nor would he mistake the significance of that
solitary clump of olive and cypress trees, which, at the foot of the
Mount of Olives, overhangs a long, low ravine which divides Mount
Zion from the Mount of Olives. That ravine is the Valley of
Jchoshaphat, and that cloister of solemn shade isGethsemane. For.
getting for the moment the devastations of the Turks, the Cru-
saders, the Saracens, the Romans, the Greeks, the Persians, the
Babylonians, and the Egyptians, you accept this little Turkish town
as the city which was built and adorned by Solomon, and asa pertect
embodiment of the devotional idea of our faith, and do not wonder
that, completed so long ago, it has been left to stand unchanged,
unshaken, and alone, for the admiration and reverence of ages.
Indulging in this reverie, we were roused, as we descended the
now gentle and easy road toward the city, by the piercing strains
of the shrill, exciting, Turkish martial music, which announced
that military honors of no common significance awaited Mr. Sew-
ard’s coming. On the last of the mountain-plains was extended a
marquee, over which floated the blood-red banner of the Crescent.
The avenue leading to it was guarded by a battalion of infantry
and a cavalry squadron. Mr. Seward alighted here, and, the droop-
ing animals being dismissed, he was conducted up the avenue under
x salute of the troops and the stirring music of the band to the
marquee, where the Pacha of Jerusalem, attended by the mani.
cipal and othe: public officers, received him as a distinguished
stranger and a guest of the Turkish Empire. [ere again was an
entertainment just as profuse as if we had not partaken of refresh:
ments on the other side of the mountain an hour before. Never:
NE.
mosques. Though not
story and geography of
ng the recently-renewed
2 Holy Sepulchre. We
gorgeous though faded
crowns Mount Moriah,
emple of Solomon. If
he recalls of childhood’s
rin of Bethlehem or the
the significance of that
Which, at the foot of the
ine which divides Mount
avine is the Valley of
de isGethsemane. lor.
of the Turks, the Cru-
reeks, the Persians, the
; this little Turkish town
Solomon, and asa pertect
faith, and do not wonder
eft to stand unchanged,
and reverence of ages,
d, as we descended the
y, by the piercing strains
nusic, which announced
ivance awaited Myr, Sew-
in-plains was extended a
banner of the Crescent
ya battalion of infantry
ited here, and, the droop-
sted up the avenue under
ausie of the band to the
attended by the mani-
him as a distinguished
ire. Tere again was an
not partaken of refresh-
an hour before. Never:
ETC.
VILLAGE OF SILOAM
JERUSALEM.
632 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
theless, Mocha coffee, as prepared by Arab hands, is always ac.
ceptable. And now occurred the first secession which our party
las undergone in its long and interesting journey. The ladies
could endure no more of receptions or of fatigue. Taking Detts
Bey for their guide, they set out on foot to make their way into the
city in advance of the procession, which they saw was inevitable.
Jerusalem has seen many striking pageants, but certainly, in
modern times, none so singular as this reception of a private Ameri-
can citizen with the military pomp and imperial parade accorded
before only to conquerors and kings. As we descended the hil]
we passed before the Roman church, monastery, school, and con.
sulate, and then, from the noble bridge which spans the ravine,
looked up at the fine colonnade of the Jewish Asylum lately built
by the Rothschilds, and at last stood on the sacred Mountain of
Zion. The Jaffa Gate is not the widest in the world, nor is Cliris.
tian Street the broadest and best-paved avenue, although it leads
directly over Mount Zion. Happily, in view of this ceremony, the
Government had caused the street to be cleared of its customary
groups of camels, horses, and donkeys. In a word, the Jerusalen
which was so beautiful seen in the softening light of the setting
sun from the summit of the mount’as of Judea, shrunk to a vulvar
Turkish town the moment we en’ ‘ed it. With the best speed the
ladies could make, the strange a: 1 wild procession overtook them,
obliging them to take shelter in such door-ways or bootlis as
opened to them. The people of Jerusalem, more accustomed to
secing sad pilgrim bands and caravans from the desert than oficial
pageants, were in the narrow street on this occasion, a heteroge-
neous mass—Turks and Christians, Seribes and Pharisees, men,
women, and children, monks and Sisters of Charity, publicans and
sinners.
Somehow we shall never be able to recall how we made our way
through this motley crowd to a gate by the way-side, on which a
modest sign-board advertised “ Mediterranean Hotel.” Our part
reunited, was conductsd up two flights of narrow, steep |
the house-top, where we sat down, having in full view, on our le!
the dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre; on our ri
hands, is always 2c-
sion which our party
journey. The ladies
tigue. Taking Petts
ake their way into the
saw was inevitable.
ants, but certainly, in
jon of a private Ameri
verial parade aecorded
we descended the hill
ustery, school, and con-
hich spans the ravine,
ish Asylum lately built
re sacred Mountain of
the world, nor is Cliris-
‘enue, although it leads §
w of this ceremony, the
cleared of its customary
n a word, the Jerusaleni
ing light of the setting
Fudea, shrunk to av ugar
With the best speed the
pocession overtook them,
door-ways or booths as
m, more accustomed to
n the desert than oficial
his occasion, 4 heteroge:
es and Pharisees, ie!
f Charity, publicans nd
all how we made our way
the way-side, on which a
ean Hotel.” Our party,
0
f narrow, steep ©
in full view, on out left,
,
+}
ichre 3 on our Fi
TYURKISIL FIRMAN.
al ‘
633
Mee 8 > . i 3 ‘
: _ of Omar 9 and, at our feet, the crystal po ] f IH | |
; ; : 4 d Y c ) Oo ezeki
\ ll 5 > y 4 ai
18 supplied trom the 66 \\ ells ot Solomon i Her 5 } ]
a ( fice : . rC t 1e WACHLA
a ) suite, the consul and Ca Vass, and $9 ali ( t] c ‘Ss i c tl a
atter renewed assurances of kind ») | ] ; ice vies ie a
' ts + hess an¢ 105 Vj H i f
. 5 ] ality t k i
leave and Ww rOrys yet 7 ee . l J) OOK heir
“ « ve repaired to adjoining chambers which th ] i ]
spacious " a : * ; ‘ e 3 5 t oug 1 neither
3} s nor pretentious ’ were spoticssly clean H | i
uke abl 4 e eas 9 ant 1h evcry Way
To CX ain is ‘ili i Ps) Sa-
| ] this bi illiant reception by the authoritie 5 of J rl
en). we ma yada 72 4 soY ° » - -* ACTUSD
G ‘ y as well Insert here the Jiriman issued by the 7 ki
yovernment, announcing Mr. Seward as th tl | : bg ihe
’ . s ‘ as Mme na lona sy 5
: nai ie ‘a ‘ Wer and
° ng all public officers to extend to him their C¢ nities ]
yrotection. Ny 5 . is ) ’ Is ant
a] Hou “HIS 1
characters, on a great sheet of parchment, surmounted by the Sul
tan 8 toogra or monogram. Mr. Brown, our charge Pal Sa ye
onstantinople, made a translation of it for us as follow . =
‘Tis Imperial Majesty, Sultan Abd-ul-Aziz Khan “i f Sul
tan Mahmoud Khan, may his victories be meermere ! ane
“ Po my noble vizier—my glorious councillor, who administer
the altnive of the people confided to his care, with ess vaal ih : )
cir —who strengthens and consolidates the edifice of ‘se tes
ant , ‘ " hE ot | a
nl is sine with much zeal and ability—who is one hia
; thifta maters of my Government, and who by his convictions
ws merited the favor of the Most High, possessor of all Secs:
i hal. or @ rey ig y j
governor-general of my province of Soria (Syria) the
: hi \ li }
CHURCH OF THE WOLY SEPULCHRE.
possessor of my noble decoration of the miajidich of the ti
techid Pacha, may his glory be increased! be it knowii:
“ That the bearer of the present royal and sover: vii document
is the Honorable William II. Seward, formerly the ciief minister
of the Government of the Republic of the United »:ates or Novth
America, who, with his companions, is visiting, for ti purposes of
travel, my province of Soria—and that it is my soverei
en will that
5
you, who are the dalee of the same, consider him as my honored
and distinguished guest.
“That you treat him with every demonstration of honor and
respect, and see that, wherever he may be pleased to go, he be
shown hospitality. It is my royal pleasure that he be everywhere
known as the guest of my Government, and treated accordingly.
Let all measures be taken for his comfort and protection, and per-
mit nothing to occur contrary to the present commands.
“This know, and hasten to carry my sovereign will into exe-
eution.
“ Written, the 15th day of the Moon of Rejeb the Unique. of
Ah
the year of the Hedjera, 1287” (20th September, 1870).
Sunday, June 11th.—Worship at the Church of tho Holy Sep-
ulchre—the only Sunday that we are to enjoy in Jerusalem—could
not be neglected. But the hours of worship i tho E«st are early.
At six o'clock, with such strength as our nigh rest nad given us,
we repaired there by rough, steep, and win... streets.
open, paved square lies in front of the ehure!:. into which \
scended by a flight of worn stone steps. The
was thron
with a varied crowd from many countries. “here were Syrian:
Greeks, Armenians, Copts, Abyssinians, and Turks, as weil as En
lish, French, Germans, Russians, Americans, and [talians
all nationalities, indeed, except Jews. Christians from
and Hebron were busy in selling small, cheap
mg the mass, many of whom scemed very poor
portion mendicants. [low unreasoning is religion
The Christian nations of Europe have succeeded in exact
obtaining from the Turkish Government st Constantinople the
636 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
exercise of religions worship of every form in the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre. All nations are invited to it, save only the Jews,
whom Turks and Christians unite in excluding from even its vesti-
bule. Mr. Seward could not believe this until he found that one of
the bearers of his chair had to be replaced because he was a Jew.
The Greek, Latin, Armenian, and Coptic sects celebrate public
worship in the church at different hours of the day. It will not
seem strange that we passed the great mass, to go directly to the
Holy Sepulchre. There is no doubt that the “new tomb” of Jo-
seph of Arimathea, in which the Saviour reposed for three days
atter his crucifixion, is somewhere in this mountain. It is unrea-
MALO ihe, Wy
i SPH ym an iif
DOME OF THE CHURCH OF TOK TOLY SEPULCURE,
sonable to suppose, in view of the cireumstances which attended
the early Church, that it can now be identified. The pious Chris-
tians of the fourth century, however, thought they found it here,
1 the Church of the
‘gave only the Jews,
s from even its vesti-
he found that one of
ause he was a Jew.
ects celebrate public
the day. It will not
to go directly to the
» “new tomb” of Jo-
»posed for three days
ymuntain. It is unrea-
t Mt Seis
te
oULCUIRE,
nstances which attended
fied. The pious Chris
ght they found it liere,
“CHAPEL OF THE ANGEL.”
4 637
and Christians of every age till this have accepted it. Why shoul
we not be content to do so, since there is no ay tc ee aa ‘
that any other place more authentic can now be tow he
therefore, shut out from our minds all distrust mie tit ¢ : e,
chre is under the centre of the great dome, or, to s . d —
curately, the great dome of the church has bean une | dive “
over the sepulchre indicated to the Empress eas: a irectly
Sepulchre is a white-marble sarcophagus. It is not if ; 7 oe
tended or supposed that the holy grave was eae a preee ae
but, with the decency which religious worship always r sae coe
marble case was built over the rock-hewn fate a as =
mental structure of marble, with pillars and ‘lsucie : na
mounted by a crown-shaped dome and cross, stands tn i
ulchre, and constitutes a kind of chapel or temple. This i aes
structure is divided into two compartments. The atten aan.
called the “ Chapel of the Angel,” it being the plaasnce . i =
tees to believe that on the spot enclosed witht se isan
ewe nit, and at the head
of the grave, the angel stood when he said to Mary Magdal
the other Mary, “Fear not ye: for I know that oe on
which was crucified. He is not here: for he is me pie pe
Come, see the place where the Lord lay.” Peneee inure
- the centre of this tiny chapel, raised on a pedestal, is a st
which is claimed to be a fragment of the identical ‘tei ‘ . 3 fae
ied angel sat. The chapel is capable of receiving only se i
visitors at any one time. At the eastern side is cael door, mi: ‘
low, so as to require the visitor to stoop as he eeicas This 1 ; ia ”
nizes with St. John’s account: “ And as she i " leaned
COW and looked into the sepulchre.” Unhappily aha ae 8
the indulgence of self-delusion, the churches have ee ns 01
the low ceiling in this narrow chamber, fort,’-three lamps of ae
ati eas which are kept always burning by day _ night
helt dazaling glare, together with the aneng perfume of ss ae
and frankincense and attar of roses, is so bacilli - pot, be
natural condition of the sepulchre, that they hewila » tnatenll af
aiding the pilgrim in his pious desire to realize th ne dew
the Lord lay.” As we reached the door, two poor Russiar ate
638 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
came out, and this made way for us. We stooped and enteied.
The marble slab, which covers the Iloly Sepulchre, was bedewed
with tears—probably it is always so, although it is continually puri-
fied with rose-water. A placid-faced monk stood near to perform
this grateful office, and to offcr flowers and other sacred mementos
to the pilgrims. Notwithstanding the many provocations to doubt.
it may well be believed that no one ever stands over that broken
and worn marble slab unmoved. We gave place, in our turn, to
devout and meek Armenians.
We could now study what remains of the Church of the Toly
Sepulchre with free and inquiring minds. We entered the ch vir
of the church when the Greek bishop and priests were concluding a
solemn mass. We need hardly say that services differing so en-
tirely from our form of worship seemed cold, formal, and theatrical.
When the services ended, the bishop and his numerous assistant
priests withdrew in solemn procession, leaving the congregation to
retire at pleasure. We need not perhaps raise a question here on
this subject. Mysterious dogmas and ecclesiastical forms were
effective, perhaps they were necessary, for the conversion of the
pagan nations. And they are not useless in supporting and
keeping alive docile and patient faith. But their day has culmi
nated; henceforth, more spiritual teaching will be employed, and
we shall be called on to try whether the requisite standard of faith
can be maintained under a system of free, unregulated, and unbri-
dled religious inquiry for religious truth, It suits us better as trav-
ellers to study past ideas, as they are embodied in architecture and
inart. This Greek choir is spacious, lofty, and elaborately adorned
with painting, statuary, and gilding. Our guides now proposed to
show us, not only the Mount of Calvary, but the very place of the
crucifixion, which is also under the dome of the Holy Sepulchre.
To say sooth, our imaginations required a more ample space for the
different parts of the most stupendous and awful drama ever
enacted. It is not strange, therefore, that our faith in traditions
°
grew weaker as we climbed the steep flight of eighteen stone steps
to reach the summit of Calvary, under this dome, and at less than
a stone’s throw from the Holy Sepulchre.
ooped and entered.
Ichre, was bedewed
t is continually puri-
od near to perform
er sacred mementos
rovocations to doubt,
ds over that broken
Jace, in our turn, to
Church of the Toly
Ve entered the ch vir
sts were concluding a
vices differing so en-
ormal, and theatrical.
is numerous assistant
@ the congregation to
se a question here on
esiastical forms were
he conversion of the
s in supporting and
- their day has culmi
il] be employed, and
visite standard of faith
iregulated, and unbri-
suits us better as trav-
ed in architecture and
id elaborately adorned
ides now proposed to
the very place of the
f the Holy Sepulchre.
re ample space for the
o
id awful drama evel
our faith in traditions
f eighteen stone steps
dome, and at less than
CALVARY. God
deve
Jalvary, if this is that mountain of terror and sadness, is a li
and cheerful, well-paved chapel, twenty feet. s« ‘ihe ae ' a
feet above the church floor, Here heats er ih abe
ner of the marble pavement, and discloses dies neue | hs +
the rock, at a distance of six feet from each other; an he ais
may believe what he says, that the central one iesaivcd th +s s
the Saviour’s cross, and the other two the crosses of fhe oe
tors who were crucified with him. Over this sta is ‘ os ie
altar garnished with a profusion of jewelled ainmnents oo : ‘ iM
All skepticism is expected to be put to flight when ine aa:
altar, the marble veneecring is removed and a hiked roc] veh st
with a large, irregular fissure in its face, which - Ne i ee
effected at that fearful moment when * the veil of the a ‘ ic uy
rent in twain from the top to the bottom; and the earth did. ; ae
and the rocks rent; and the graves were opened; ica many ae
of the saints which slept arose.” ~ “een
The trial of faith steadily increases as we continue the appointed
exploration. It has a locality, not merely for each ne t i:
the mighty transaction which it commemorates but oe f We :
incident connected with it, though too minus fb anaie hie
tory. <A tablet at the foot of the Chapel of Calvary es : Is ay
here “the mother of Jesus stood,” a witness of ii pete i
. > ; . s.agony. z\n-
atliar advises you of the spot where the body lay when taken oun
from the cross. Another, where it was washed and swathed for
interment. Another, a place where the three Marys eathien “
mutual condolence. After completing this survey, md 4g is led
to the dark cavern underneath the pavement of the ake om ‘i
the base of Calvary, in which St. Helena, in the fifth aang ais
covered the three crosses, still in a state of preservation _
| We returned to our hotel through several streets, which, from
their continuity, have acquired the name of the “ Via Delovads ay
being the path the Saviour trod on the way from the wiles of
Pilate to the place of crucifixion. Tradition has been no less aon
here, At the foot of this staircase, the Saviour, sinking’ under the
weight of his cross, impressed his Divine face upon the randevclitet
of St. Veronica, now seen in St. Peter’s at Rome. Here in this bal-
4
48
—
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
640
cony, built over the street, the remorse-struck governor exhibited
Jesus to the maddened mob, with the memorable words “ Ecce
Homo,” and this lofty structure, certainly not unworthy to be the
residence of a Roman proconsul, was the palace of Pontius Pilate,
where the Saviour was arraigned and condemned. Here, a repaired
breach in the wall indicates the staircase by which the Saviour
ascended to the palace on that day. The staircase itsclf has been
removed to Rome for many centuries, and is there exhibited in the
Church of St. John Lateran, and is familiarly known to all travel.
lers as the Scala Santa. It is impossible to accep! the authenticity
of the ‘Via Dolorosa.” Constantinople, Rome, London, Paris,
and every other capital of Europe, have undergone fewer sackings,
sieges, and burnings, than Jerusalem. It would be difficult to
wlentify any street in any city after the changes and accidents
which time has wrought in a thousand years. It is a striking com-
mentary upon the whole legend, that the house of Dives, as well as
the house of Lazarus, is pointed out in the “ Way of Sorrow,”
with the same confidence as the Judgment-Hall of Pilate.
Yussef Effendi, with the brother and secretary of the pacha,
attended us to the Mosque of Omar. It is only within the last five
years that this mosque, scarcely less sacred in the eyes of Mussul-
mans than the Church of the Holy Sepulchure is in ours, has been
opened to Christian travellers. Even now a careful, though some-
what disguised survellance, is practised over them. The mosque
stands in an area enclosed with a high, parapeted wall, overlooking
the valley of Jehoshaphat, and confronting the Mount of Olives.
This occupies one-sixth of the land of the entire city. On the east-
ern side of this wall is a gate-way, built of marble, called by the
Mussulmans the “ Golden Gate,” which they are fond of represent-
ing as the “gate of the temple called Beautiful,” but its modern
architecture does not support that claim. It is only interesting
from the tradition that it was closed with the Roman conquest, and
has never been reopened. The so-called Mosque of Omar is not
single. It consists of two distinct mosques, placed at some distance
from each other--the one here named Kubbet-es-Suhkrah, or “the
Beme of the Rock,’ commonly called the Mosque of Omar, and
rovernor exhibited
‘able words * Ecce
nworthy to be the
of Pontius Pilate,
. Here, a repaired
which the Saviour
ase itself has been
re exhibited in the
nown to all travel.
ep! the authenticity
ne, London, Paris,
one fewer sackings,
yuld be difficult to
nges and accidents
[t is a striking com-
of Dives, as well as
“Way of Sorrow,”
lof Pilate.
retary of the pacha,
within the last five
the eyes of Mussul-
is in ours, has been
preful, though some-
them. The mosque
ed wall, overlooking
1e Mount of Olives.
city. On the east-
iarble, called by the
re fond of represent-
‘ul,” but its modern
is only interesting
Roman conquest, and
sque of Omar is not
ced at some distance
-es-Suhkrah, or “ the
osque of Omar, and
x:
Pan 5A
VIEW FROM THE WALLS OF JERUSALEM.
| yy Ta Ra eee 6 EE een
Ko Y 4:
4Y «
NON 4
9S “Ye, aA’, 4 Vv <¢& <
o ers
VW < oe >.
aA
S.
\ v
Vi 4 “ef
VV". ¢¥
62 E3.
=i ddaa ly 4b
ze danni fl
a =II | . :
TT) oO 4. “
Ef, ol] =I) 3 aes
SRS
a> a U
> >> c\
o>. Wa
642 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
the Mosque-el-Aksa. Though differing entirely from the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre, the Mosque of Omar is not less unique and
peculiar in its consecrated antiquities. Twelve hundred years ago,
MOSQUE OF OMAR,
on the surrender of the Greek Patriarch, the Caliph Omar de-
manded to be shown the site of the Jewish Temple. He was taken
tw the sacred rock, he knelt and prayed over it, and he built over it
a mosque, wuich, with subsequent repairs, is the present “ Dome of
the Rock,” or Mosque of Omar. In architectural design and execu-
tion it rivals the finest in Cairo and Constantinople. Antedating
the conquest of the Mussulmans in India, it has an claborateness of
embellishment, perhaps resulting from the influence of Greck and
Roman art, which distinguishes this and the other religious struct-
ures of modern Asia from the more severe, simple, and effective
style of the mosques of Agra and Delhi. One would say, in compar-
ing the two styles, that the Mosque of Omar has borrowed from the
superstitions of the West, while those of India indicate a puritanical
reformaiion. It is now sadly out of repair. Its magnificent gilded
dome is blackened, and its stained glass windows are broken ; the
ly from the Church
, not less unique and
> hundred years 2g0,
the Caliph Omar de-
emple. He was taken
it, and he built over it
the present “ Dome of
tural design and execu-
ntinople. Antedating
1as an claborateness ot
influence of Greek and
other religious struct-
, simple, and effective
e would say, in compar-
has borrowed from the
‘a indicate a puritanical
Its magnificent gilded
idows are broken ; the
MOSQUE-EL-AKSA, 643
exquisite Arabic traccry marred, and the elaborately-inscribed texts
from the Koran faded. Like the Holy Sepulchre, it is replete in
all parts with relics and memorials held sacred by the Mussulman
faith. The sheik of the mosque reverently removed for Mr.
Seward the crimson-sill canopy which covers an irregular, flat lime-
stone rock, sixty feet wide and five feet high, in the centre cf the
building, and encircled by a high iron railing. It is said this is the
threshing-floor which King David bought of Araunah, the Jebusite,
as a site for an altar of burnt-offcrings. Modern writers accept it
as the altar of burnt-offerings in the Temple of Solomon. Under-
neath one side of the rock is a vault, which connects with a well
under the centre of the rock, now covered with a marble slab.
This vaulted cavern is by Christian writers believed to have been
the cesspool of the altar of burnt-offerings, but the Mohammedans
revere it as the place of prayer of Abraham, David, Solomon, and
Jesus Christ. On either side of the door of the vault are small
utars, which the sheik calls the shrines of David and Solomon, but
they bear carvings unmistakably Greek. On another side the sheik
showed us an indentation which was made by the foot of Mohammed
when he sprang from this rock into heaven, and also the imprint
of the’ hand of the angel who threw the rock back to its resting-
place when it was rising from its bed with the foot of the prophet!
Unfortunately, the prophet’s footprint here differs in measurement
from the footprints which he left, and which we personally saw, in
Egypt and in India. We passed over the neglected court to the
Mosque-el-Aksa. It is said to oceupy the placs and to retain the
form of a Christian church or basilica which the Emperor Justinian
built in the sixth ecntury, in honor of the Virgin, and which was
temporarily restored by the Crusaders. A part of it was assigned
as an encampment for the military order then recently created by
Saint-Louis, which from that cireumstance took the name of
Knights Templars, and which was so active and powerful through
many centuries.
El-Aksa is indeed a structure built in the customary design of
the basilica. Its dimensions are two hundred and seventy-two
feet long, by one hundred and eighty-four feet wide. It has seven
644 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
aisles, supported by forty-five columns, of which thirty-three are
marble, and are chiefly of the Corinthian order. But, what inter-
ested us more is, a recent excavation under the pavement of this
mosque, which proves to be an ancient gate. It has been closed
and walled up, while the city has been built around it on the out-
side. The massive though broken floor, the solid columns, and
the heavy transverse stones which rest upon them, are wrought in
a style neither Saracenic nor Greek, but shaped and ornamented
in a manner which we remarked in the Egyptian temples. ‘This
newly-discovered gate-way is believed, by the distinguished ex-
plorer, Captain Wilson, to have been one of the original entrances
to the Temple of Solomon. Not only El-Aksa, but the whole area
enclosed within the outer walls, now wears the appearance of neglect,
dilapidation, and decay. Is this an evidence of the decline of the
Mohammedan religion, or only of the increasing isolation of Jeru-
salem? We must go farther into the Turkish Empire to decide.
Meantime, it is suggestive of much thought that not only the
Mayor of Jerusalem, but the obliging sheik of the mosque, plain-
tively and earnestly invoked Mr. Seward to use what they thought
would be an influence of some weight with the Sultan at Constan-
tinople, for the repair of the Mosque of Omar. The various points
we have described in the Mosque of Omar are held to fix beyond
all dispute the site of the ancient Temple of Solomon. Ilistory,
tradition, and a pride of the Jews, greater than was ever exhibited
by any other nation, made that temple an object of admiration to
the whole world. Though its base was Mount Moriah, the hill
which bore that name must have been levelled when or before the
temple was built. It was easily accessible by a gentle descent from
all parts of the city, while the high wall built on the outer preci-
pice rendered it impregnable on that side.
an
gis
eg
Fi? Bide’
pitt avs
ier Bimadis
S Sar
a
me
si
q
te
ee
Sie He
ee ea |
: ie
aces Fs) Faecal aeZ
se
ome
aces §
¥:
ct ee
FS ee ®
as
ae
ry
Aes 5
ich thirty-three are
x. But, what inter-
1e pavement of this
It has been closed
round it on the out-
solid columns, and
hem, are wrought in
ved and ornamented
ptian temples. ‘This
he distinguished ex-
he original entrances
a, but the whole area
yppearance of neglect,
of the decline of the
ing isolation of Jeru-
ish Empire to decide.
it that not only the
of the mosque, plain-
se what they thought
re Sultan at Constan-
The various points
pre held to fix beyond
f Solomon. Tistory,
an was ever exhibited
pject of admiration to
ount Moriah, the hill
d when or before the
a gentle descent from
It on the outer preci-
CHAPTER X.
JERUSALEM AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.
Bethichen.—The Grave of Rachel.—The City of Jerusalem.—The Mount of Olives.—The
Tomb of Zachariah.—The Tomb of Absalom.—An American Jew.—Bethany.—
Pilate’s Paiuace.—The Greck Church in Palestine.—The Jews of Jcrusalom.—-Their
Wailing-Place.—The Jewish: Sabbath—aAttendance at the Synagogue.—Bishop
Gobat.—Departure from Jerusalem.—Jaffa and Beirut.
June 12th.—“ Let us now go even unto Bethlehem and see
this thing.”
Bethlehem is the one place in all the wide world which, by its
memories and associations, elevates the soul with emotions un-
mixed with sorrow, fear, or terror. The Christian mind, that is
not unreasonably exacting, finds in the surroundings of Bethlehem,
the “ city of David,” all the confirmation it needs or expects of the
Gospel history—the broad, fertile mountain-plain, easily watered,
and which, even now, amid the general desolation of the country,
largely retains its verdure, and seems a natural field of the develop-
ment of the patriarchal system. “In the way to Ephrath, which is
Bethlehem,” we rested under the shade of a graceful monument,
recently erected by the belicving Rothschilds, in full and unques-
tioning faith that it covers the spot where Rachel was buried, and
upon which “ Jacob set a pillar upon her grave: that zs the pillar
of Rachel’s grave unto this day.”
Bethlehem is built on the side of a gorge, on whose declivity run
zigzag paths which are the strects of the village. The rocky steep
has been cut perpendicularly down, and pierced with caves, which,
42
645 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
with the addition, where it is practicable, of a second story con-
structed of rude masonry, constitute the dwellings, storehouses,
workshops, and inns of the village. If indeed “there went out a
decree from Cesar Augustus that all the world should be taxed,’
and if indeed it was necdful that the poor Nazarene, Joseph, must
go, out of the city of Nazareth into Judea unto the city of David,
to be taxed, with Mary his espoused wife,’ and if “the days were
accomplished that she should be delivered,” then the incidents of
——m m= eee |
ae hel,
gipatae wh
BETHLEMEM,
‘the transaction, as they are related by the Evangelists, were not
only natural, but inevitable. Bethlehem, ncither more then than
now, could have contained an inn in which there could have been
found “room for them.”
Ree TT
The inn, in all countries and down even
to our own time, is historically known by its equal provision for
the entertainment of man and beast. The stable and the manger,
throughout all Asiatic countries, no less in Palestine than in China,
are adjuncts in the entertainment of an inn, quite equal in import:
a second story con-
ellings, storehouses,
1“ there went out a
id should be taxed,”
zarene, Joseph, must
to the city of David,
id if “the days were
nen the incidents of
Evangelists, were not
ther more then than
here could have been
ntries and down even
s equal provision for
able and the manger,
lestine than in China,
quite equal in import:
BETHLEHEM. 647
unce to the apartments in which the traveller of the better sort
rests, while the plebcian or publican, declining that costly expense,
shares the stable and the manger with his faithtal and cherished
mule, ox, or camel. So it could not have otherwise happened than
that, when Mary should have “ brought forth her first-born son,”
she should have “ wrapped him in swaddling-clothes, and laid him
in a manger; because there was no room for them in the inn.”
The inhabitants of Bethlehem are native Christians, who sup-
port themselves by the fruits which they sell at Jerusalem, and by
the manufacture of cheap tokens, ornaments, and amulets, which
pilgrims taie home as mementos of the Holy Land. Mr. Seward
remarks a visible improvement in the aspect, not only of Bethle-
hem, but of the country about Jerusalem, which has been made
since his visit of 1859. Something of this is due to the expendi-
ture of the Greek Christians of Russia upon a new and beautiful
church outside of the city, but more is due to a small colony of
Germans, who have become proprietors and cultivators here.
June 13th.—“ Walk about Zion, and go round about her: tell
the towers thereof. Mark ye well her bulwarks, consider her
palaces; that ye may tell it to the generation following.”
We have done so, and we have found it neither a short nor
an easy promenade. The city occupies two ridges of a mountain
promontory, with the depression or valley between them. The
walls of the modern Turkish city have been so contracted with
the decrease of the population, as to exclude large portions of the
ancient city. Jerusalem is now divided according to its different
classes of population. The Mohammedans are four thousand,
and oceupy the northeast quarter, including the whole area of the
Mosque of Omar. The Jews are cight thousand, and have the
southeast quarter. These two quarters overhang the Valley of
Jehoshaphat and the brook Kedron. The Armenians number
eighteen hundred, and have the southwest quarter; and the other
Christians, amounting to twenty-two hundred, have the northwest
quarter, which overlooks the Valley of Hinnom. We issued from
the’city through St. Stephen’s gate, which stands some two hundred
c=
EX
tre og
tbr eae
EH sg
ag
ry
ee. a
ry p|
y ¥%
mm
ee |
ime ee
(
MH)
. Ny
Be yoga
" 6
mI ay
e R
rf
i
eo
if
y »
Gis tt
| ae
ii 4
tS a ag
_ a]
Fert ag
ee
igi xa
EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
648
feet north of the Haram, the area of the Mosque of Omar, This
gate is identified, by tradition only, with the martyrdom of St.
Stephen. Our sure-footed animals carried us safely down the
rocky, precipitous road, 1 hundred feet to the brook Kedroa. Re-
freshing ourselves with the limpid water from its pebbly bed, we
climbed the eastern bank which is the base of the Mount of Olives.
This entire base is covered north and south, as far as the cye can
reach, with the tombs and slabs of the Jewish dwellers of the Holy
City. It has been always sacred to the Jews, and it is the only
place where the past and present of that extraordinary people meet.
Here is a graceful monolith structure in the form of a temple, with
a pyramidal top, hewn in shape without being detached from the
native rock. You may have your choice of tradition in regard to
it. The modern dwellers in Jerusalem tell you that it was built in
honor of Zachariah, concerning whom the Saviour accused the
Pharisees: “ That upon you may come all the righteous blood shed
upon the earth, from the blood of righteous Abel unto the blood of
Zacharias son of Barachias, whom ye slew between the temple and
the altar.” Historical evidence of an inscription in the fourth cen-
tury assigns this tomb to the prephct Josiah, while in the twelfth
century it was described as the tomb of King Huzziah. To whom-
soever it may belong, it is held in high veneration by the Jews
throughout the werld, and prayers offered up in it are believed to
be always answeved. The tomb of Absalom, a monolith cut out of
the rock, in the same manner as the tomb just described, with an
upper story of masonry, is attractive as well as curious. Ws tried
to enter it, but found the main structure half filled up with a heap
of loose stones. On making complaint of this, we found that we
were very unreasonable, for these detached stones are the evidence
of the genuineness of the tomb.
“Now Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared up for him-
self a pillar, which ¢s in the king’s dale: for he said, I have no soa
to keep my name in remembrance: and he called the pillar after
his own name; and it is called unto this day, Absalom’s place.”
The Jews have been in the habit, as they passed through this
burying-ground, of taking up a stone, and pelting with it the monu-
ue of Omar, This
martyrdom of St.
s sately down the
rook Kedroa. Re-
its pebbly bed, we
ie Mount of Olives.
3 far as the cye can
wellers of the Holy
and it is the only
dinary people meet.
m of a temple, with
x detached from the
adition in regard to
that it was built in
saviour accused the
‘ighteous blood shed
el unto the blood of
vecn the temple and
n in the fourth cen-
while in the twelfth
Tuzziah. To whom-
ration by the Jews
nit are believed to
monolith cut out of
st described, with an
curious. Ws tried
Hed up with « heap
s, we found that we
mes are the evidence
d reared up for him-
said, I have no son
Hed the pillar after
.bsalom’s place.”
passed through this
g with it the monu-
AN AMERICAN JEW. 649
nent of the rebellious son of David, and so, in the lapse of cen.
turies, the heap has aceumuiated which obstructed our entrance
Notwithstanding all this, however, there is a growing distrust of
the aa though no one denies the antiquity, of the monu-
ment.
The J ews throughout the world, not merely as pilgrims, but in
anticipation of death, come here to be buried, by the side of the
graves of their ancestors, As we sat on the deck of our steamer
coming from Alexandria to Jaffa, we remarked a family whom on
supposed to be Germans. It consisted of a plainly-dressed man
with a wife who was ill, wud two children—one of them an infant
in its cradle. The sufferings of the sick woman, and her effort to
maintain a cheerful hope, interested us. The husband, seeing this
addressed us in English. Mr. Seward asked if he were an English-
MOSQUE ON THE MOUNT OF OLIVES.
man. He answered that he was an American Jew, that be had
come from New Orleans, and was going to Jerusalem. We parted
with them on the steamer. The day after we reached the Holy
850 EGYP! AND PALESTINE.
City we learned that the poor woman had climbed the mountain
with her husband and children, and arrived the day after us. She
died immediately, and so achieved the design of her pilgrimage.
She was buried in this cemetery. She was a Jewess, and, according
to the Jewish interpretation of the prophecies, the Jew that dies in
Jerusalem will certainly rise in paradise.
The Mount of Olives, with the customary proclivity of the faith-
ful, has been divided into three: the central and loftiest one is
called the Mount of Olives; the northern oue, Mount Scopus ; the
southern, the Mount of Evil Counsel. Three paths lead over the
Mount of Olives: one, on the north, in the sunken line which
marks the junction of Mount Scopus; the central one, directly
across the Mount of Olives, at its highest point; and a third,
winding at the foot of the slope which separates Olivet from the
Mount of Evil Counsel. A rough ride of three miles over the lat:
ter brought us at noon quite around the mountain-summit to Beth-
any. Little, however, were we disposed to complain of the hard-
ships of the dreary ride, when we remembered that we were on
the very same road that David travelled, fleecing from Absalom,
“ toward the way of the wilderness and wept as he went up.”
Bethany, on the opposite side of Olivet, overlooks the Dead
Sea, and beyond it the long, stupendous range of the mountains
of Moab. With a previous instruction, we were able to discern the
Valley of the Jordan, and to detect a silver thread of its waters,
lying, far away to the northeast, beyond the desert which covers
the eastern slope of the mountains of Judea. Bethany, as it pre-
sents i.self in the simple narrative of the Gospels, is a delight and
acharm. The friendship which existed between Jesus and Mary
and Martha, their implicit trust in him, and his benevolent conde-
scension in raising their brother from the dead, come up vividly
before one at the very mention of the nam> of the humble village
in which they lived. It was from Bethany also, then embowered
in olive, palm, sycamore, and fig trees, that the Lord commenced
that memorable, triumphal progress across the mountain to Jerusa-
lem, in which “much people, that were come to the feast, when
they heard that Jesus was coming to Jerusalem, took branches of
2 eb ides BES SRE
agen with al shed
ee
we
ax;
r
t
€:
Hper 2S ne
ne os ee ee
wus Y ; :
Agia: SY
-
imbed the mountain
1e day after us. She
n of her pilgrimage.
ewess, and, according
the Jew that dies in
proclivity of the faith-
1 and loftiest one is
2, Mount Scopus ; the
e paths lead over the
e sunken line which
central one, directly
point; and a third,
rates Olivet from the
ree miles over the lat.
ntain-summit to Beth-
complain of the hard-
red that we were on
lecing from Absalom,
as he went up.”
, overlooks the Dead
nge of the mountains
re able to discern the
thread of its waters,
e desert which covers
Bethany, as it pre-
spels, isa delight and
veen Jesus and Mary
his benevolent conde-
dead, come up vividly
of the humble village
also, then embowered
the Lord commenced
e mountain to Jerusa-
e to the feast, when
lem, took branches of
RUSSIAN PILGRIMS. 651
palm-trees, and went forth to meet him, and cried, Hosanna!
Blessed is the King of Israel that cometh in the name of the
Lord.”
The hospitalities of the Greek and Latin monasteries here hove
been kindly extended to Mr. Seward by their superiors.
Mr. Seward received, to-day, visits from all the forcien consuls
residing at the Holy City. | After this, attended by a guard of honor
he returned the visit of the Pacha of J erusalem, and was wien
to find that, although the Scala Santa was removed so long ago to
Rome, he found uo difficulty in ascending to the upper story, where
he was ho»pitably entertained by the present Turkish governor in
the palace which we have all along been assured was the identical
gubernatorial residence of Pontius Pilate. Mr. Seward says that,
if the tradition is true, the vacillating Roman governor had a won-
derfully fine modern house. We spent tie evening “on the house-
tops” of the paiace of Bishop Gobat and his family. .
The Greek Church in Russia has lately manifested a new and
extraordinary interest in regard to the Holy Land. The number
of pilgrims from that country has become immense. They come
down the Black Sea, and through the Levani. The Greeks of
Russia have lately built, in a beautiful suburb, an extensive church,
with a home or asylum for pilgrims of each sex. These structures
are much more costly and elegant than any other Christian estab-
lishments built here. The enterprise enjoys the protection, and
doubtless the aid, of the Russian Government. It is an indication
that Russia adheres, notwithstanding the disaster at Sevastopol, to
the cardinal policy of Peter the Great and of the late Emperor
Nicholas. Under whatever auspices it may happen, and with
whatever political design, it is gratifying to see this renewal of
Christian interest in Jerusalem.
June 15th.—“ And the name of the city from that day shall be,
the Lorn is there.” Our last day at Jerusalem has been spent, as
it ought to have been, among and with the Jews, who were the
builders and founders of the city, and who cling the closer to it for
its disasters and desolation. We have mentioned that the Jewish
652 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
quarter adjoins, on the southeast, the high wall of the Haram,
This wall is a close one, while the upper part, like all the Turkish
walls of the city, is built of small stone. The base of this portion
of the wall, enclosing the Mosque of Omar, and the site of the
ancient temple, consists of five tiers of massive, accurately-bevelled
blocks. It is impossible to resist the impression at first view, not-
withstanding the prophecy, that this is a portion of the wall of
the Temple of Solomon, which was hewn in the quarries and set
up in its place without the noise of the hammer and the axe. So
Sind
7a yy F
tH
i
-.
re
2
Pe i ia
erases «8
—— a a |
i ‘ |
gee Be
JEWS’ WAILING-PLACE,
ay ey 8
at least the Jews believe. For centuries (we do not know how
many) the Turkish rulers have allowed the oppressed and exiled
Jews the privilege of gathering at the foot of this wall one day in
every week, and pouring out their lamentations over the fall of
their beloved city, and praying for its restoration to the Lord, who
promised, in giving its name, that he would “ be there.”
The Jewish sabbath being on Saturday, and beginning at sun-
set on Friday, the weekly wail of the Jews under the wall takes
place on Friday, and is a preparation for the rest and worship of
ad
Le
¥
i
2 om
AG Beets §
FRPEF?
all of the Haram.
ike all the Turkish
jase of this portion
nd the site of the
accurately-bevelled
n at first view, not-
ion of the wall of
he quarries and set
» and the axe. So
WN
2 .
RAPT’ raver” ow
hummer
roy
;
ay ‘<
at
il ns
mz,
«Nine
ve do not know how
oppressed and exiled
this wall one day in
sons over the fall of
tion to the Lord, who
‘be there.”
bnd beginning at sun-
under the wall takes
e rest and worship of
THE AMERICAN SYNAGOGUE,
the day which they are commanded to “keep he}: The small
rectangular oblong grea, without roof or canopy, serves for the
gathering of the whole remnant ot the Jewish nation in Jerusalem.
Here, whether it rains or shines, they come together at an early
hour, old and young, men, women, and little children—the poor
and the rich, in their best costumes, discordant as the diverse na-
tions from which they come, They are attended by their rabbis,
each bringing the carefully-preserved and elaborately-bound text of
the book of the Lamentations of Jeremiah, either in their respec-
tive languages, or in the original Hebrew. For many hours they
pour forth their complaints, reading and reciting the poetic lan-
guage of the prophet, beating their hands against the wall, and
bathing the stones with their kisses and tears. It is no mere for-
mal ceremony. During the several hours while we were spectators
of it, there was not one act of irreverence or indifference. Only
those who have seen the solemn prayer-meeting of a religious re-
vival, held by some evangelical denomination at home, can have a
true idea of the solemnity and depth of the profound grief and pious
fecling exhibited by this strange assembly on so strange an occa-
sion, althoug.a no ritual in the Catholic, Greek, or Episcopal Church
is conducted with more solemnity and propriety.
Though we supposed our party unobserved, we had scarcely
left the place, when a meek, gentle Jew, in a long, plain brown
dress, his light, glossy hair falling in ringlets on either side of his
face, came to us, and, respectfully accosting Mr. Seward, expressed
a desire that he would visit the new synagogue, where the sabbath-
service was abont to open at sunset. Mr. Seward assented. A
crowd of ‘the peculiar people” attended and showed us the way to
the new house of prayer, which we are informed was recently built
by a rich countryman of our own whose name we did not learn.
It is called the American Synagogue. It is a very lofty edifice, sur-
mounted by a circular dome. Just underneath it a circular gallery
is devoted exclusively to the women. Aisles run between the rows
of columns which support the gallery and dome. On the plain
stone pavement, rows of movable, wooden benches with backs are
free to all who come. At the side of the synagogue, opposite the
653
ae
8
ee
Femeese. a eet ee
ia
oe
ag
FP
£
<i t
654 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
door, is an elevated desk on a platform accessible only by movable
steps, and resembling more a pulpit than a chancel. It was
adorned with red-damask eurtains, and behind them a [Hebrew in-
scription. Directly in the centre of the room, between the door
and thig platform, is a dais six feet high and ten feet square, sur-
rounded by a brass railing, carpeted, and containing cushioned
seats. We assume that this dais, high above the heads of the wor-
shippers, and on the same elevation with the platform appropriated
to prayer, is assigned to the rabbis. We took seats on one of the
benches against the vall; presently an elderly person, speaking
English imperfectly, invited Mr. Seward to change his seat; he
hesitated, but, on being informed by Mr. Finkelstein that the per-
son who gave the invitation was the president of the synagogue,
Mr. Seward rose, and the whole party, accompanying him, were
conducted up the steps and were comfortably seated on the dais, in
the “ chief seat in the synagogue.” On this dais was a tall, branch-
ing, silver candlestick with seven ar:as.
The congregation now gathered in, the women filling the gal-
lery, and the men, in varied costumes, and wearing hats of all
shapes and colors, sitting or standing as they pleased. The light-
ing of many silver lamps, judiciously arranged, gave notice that the
sixth day’s sun had set, and that the holy day had begun. In-
stantly, the worshippers, all standing, and as many as could turning
to the wall, began the utterance of prayer, bending backward and
forward, repeating the words in a chanting tone, which each read
from a book, in a low voice like the reciting of prayers after the
clergyman in the Episcopal service. It seemed to us a service
without prescribed form or order. When it had continucd some
time, thinking that Mr. Seward might be impatient to leave, the
chief men requested that he would remain a few moments, until a
prayer should be offered for the President of the United States, and
another for himself. Now a remarkable rabbi, clad in a long, rich,
flowing sacerdotal dress, walked up the aisle; a table was lifted
from the floor to the platform, and, by a steep ladder which was
held by two assistant priests, the rabbi ascended the platform. A
large folio Hebrew manuscript was laid on the table before him,
sible only by movable
_a chancel. It was
nd them a Hebrew in-
ym, between the door
1 ten feet square, sur-
containing cushioned
. the heads of the wor-
platform appropriated
ok seats on one of the
lerly person, speaking
o change his seat; he
nkelstein that the per-
lent of the synagogue,
companying him, were
ly seated on the dais, in
, dais was a tall, branch-
women filling the gal-
nd wearing hats of all
ney pleased. The light:
red, gave notice that the
ly day had begun. Tn-
s many as could turning
bending backward and
tone, which each read
ing of prayers after the
seemed to us a service
it had continued some
impatient to leave, the
a few moments, until a
bf the United States, and
bbbi, clad in a long, rich,
hisle; a table was lifted
steep ladder which was
ended the platform. A
n the table before him, ,
JAFF.., 655
Jv
and he ited wi ‘ked j i
sper ae with marked intonation, in clear Jalsetto, a vvayer
in which he was joined by tl is ‘es
ie assistants reading fr
manuscript. We were at firs i ee
rst uncertain whether this was a psalm
ora prayer, but we remembered that all the Hebrew pray
ee cd rd noe na ayers are
P “es : tone which rises above the recitative and approaches
melo i ( i ay
‘ y, SO ‘ iat a candidate for the priesthood is always required to
ave a musical voice. At the close of the reading, tl
to Mr. Seward and informed him that it sam a
iat 1t was a prayer ?
: ] or che Pr
dent of the United States, anda thanksgiving for the Jel}
of the Union from its rebelli tae ee
its rebellious assailants. Then came a sec
it was in Hebrew and intoned i Eee
hie: ned, but the rabbi informed us that it
: a prayer of gratitude for Mr. Seward’s visit to the Jews at
a e w ° a sick ‘
erusalem, for his health, for his safe return to his native |:
along, happy life. The rabbi ae
: 4 aes 1e rabbi now descended, and it was evident
iat the service was at an end. Coming down from the dais, we
ray ; y NO ee . ; j
ia mast by a band of musicians playing on drums, fifes, and vio
ins. i * thi i she :
7 We questioned whether this music was a part of the service
of the synagogue, but our doubt was removed when we found it
accompanying us to the gate of our hotel. The Jews, in their dis
persion, are understood to be forbidden the use of musical instru
e e ° » J ; ; :
a in worship. Their chants of praise are the traditional songs
of Israel, just as the Christians, who have succeeded them, prefer ra
all other devotional hymns, the Psalms of David. 7
A pleasant dinner ensued with the United States consul and his
shel hatte wife, where we had the honor of meeting the venera
. + =
sishop Gobat and Mrs. Gobat. We infer that the Coptic
e 4 * e ;
aia Greek, and Armenian Churches have given up the design
; > s 7 } ‘ .
of proselytism here, and now confine their labors to the enlarge-
e ® >
ment and improvement of their several convents for the entertain-
A of Christian pilgrims in the Holy Land. On the other hand
e . e :
: e Protestant missionaries from Germany, Great Britain, and the
nited States, are the living, active preachers and teachers of the
Gospel in Syria.
Csi-
, Jaffa, June 18¢h.—-We left Jerusalem at that early hour when
rom the “ Dome of the Rock,” and the Mosque el-Aksa, and from
# RECCTET A TRI
gs BES S35
5 ipend BES
. =
656 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
every minaret in the city, the shrill Moslem call to prayer was re-
sounding. The Pacha of Jerusalem, with his suite and guard,
joined us at the Jaffa gate, and travels with us to Damascus, giy-
ing Mr. Seward his protection, and insisting on his taking prece-
dence throughout the journey. But our ways are not Turkish
ways, and, as a certainty, the Turkish ways are not our ways; and,
while we rode together, and have entered villages and towns as one
party, we separated on the road to eat and sleep. The pacha and
his party lunched by the way-side at the foot of the wilderness of
John the Baptist; we took our lunch and siesta by the side of
the spring under the shade of a great willow-oak-tree. We rested
with the good Franciscan monks at Ramleh; the pacha and his
party were guests of the governor of that place. At Ramleh and
at Jaffa the Turkish bands and cavalry, with the sheiks, digni-
taries, and authorities of the mosques on the way, met, saluted, and
joined us in our progress. The gay Turkish cavalry amused and
interested us, on our way across the plain of Sharon, by their feats
of horsemanship and their strategy of battle, charge and retreat,
and in the exercise of el-djertd. We do not wonder that Napoleon
said that, if he could have the Mameluke cavalry with the French
army, he could conquer the world. The journey was an easy one,
and the mountains of Judea seemed much less distant and cheerless
than when we were so wearily climbing them on our way to Jcrusa-
lem. We are passing our last hour here with Mrs. Hay at the
vice-consulate, preparatory to our embarkation with the Pacha of
Jerusalem in the Apolio, an Austrian Lloyd’s steamer, for Beirut.
Beirut, June 19th.— We had the pleasure of a visit from the
eminent Dr. Van Dyck and Dr. Bliss, his worthy associate, and we
found them not less highly esteemed by the natives here than they
deservedly are at home. It was our long-cherished purpose to cross
the range of Lebanon to Damascus, and, on the way, to visit Baal-
bee, the Grecian Heliopolis. Mr. Seward was expected at Damas-
cus, and arrangements had been made for his hospitable reception.
But the way is long; the journey, especially the incidental excur-
sion to Baalbec, rough and tedious. The hot season has already
ill to prayer was re-
iis suite and guard,
us to Damascus, giv-
on his taking prece-
ays are not Turkish
‘e not our ways ; and,
ages and towns as one
ep. The pacha and
| of the wilderness of
siesta by the side of
-oak-tree. We rested
hh; the pacha and his
lace. At Ramleh and
vith the sheiks, digni-
2 way, met, saluted, and
sh cavalry amused and
f Sharon, by their feats
le, charge and retreat,
wonder that Napoleon
avalry with the French
urmey was an easy one,
ss distant and cheerless
on our way to Jerusa-
with Mrs. Hay at the
‘on with the Pacha of
5 steamer, for Beirut.
ure of a visit from the
rorthy associite, and we
} natives here than they
erished purpose to cross
, the way, to visit Baal-
vas expected at Damas-
tis hospitable reception.
ly the incidental excur-
hot season has already
TOWER OF DAVID. 657
By
commenced, and Mr ’
by the fatiar . Sevan 8 strength seems somewhat impai
y atiguing explorations of Palestine. T] eee
together with the temporary indispositi : P 1ese_ considerations,
ion o her
the party, and tl ee another member of
party, 1e hazard of dividing it, obliged of
much reluctance, to give up the jo es : ged us, though with
urney. Perh: ee
side nino. ua bwabe 1aps the impression
Wonls p a e@ unhappy fate of the two dauel i ;
oolsey, who perished from the exhausti f 1 Raa
xhaustion ee .
Damascus to Jerusalem, last winter, } of the journey from
ernor’s di PU ARE RL N be aba Rai had its weivht. TI r
issuasion from the journey decided v as 1e gov-
At tour o’clock w f a
ock w
Pat ce e lett our hotel and returned to the Apollo
Srna oe a better view than can be obtained i thie
7 Oo = $ n the
declivity bathed a ofty range of Lebanon, with its whole weste
J ied in gorgeous light, and its lo: ent
clad crest reflecting the r nee ong, castellated snow:
g the rays of an unclouded setting sun
ing ’
TOWER OF DAVID, JERUSALEM.
A
eteisat
=
5° Se
~
~
Fon 8 REGRET
i diy dias oei
i
+ 2
&tatete w ae
Mie |
;
f
ae
an
Pees
a 2
ae
Nor were the ancient Egyptians of any Western type of the Cau-
CHAPTER XI.
FROM PALESTINE TO GREECE.
Impressions of Palestine.—The Egyptian Race.—-Egyptian Civilization.—Pheenicia and
Palestine —The Four Religions,—What we owe to the Jews.—Present State of
Palestine.—The Island of Cyprus.--The Cesnola Collection.--Smyrna.—An Excur-
sion to Ephesus.—The Seven Sleepers.—Mr. Wood’s Researches.—The Temple of
Diana.—The Isles of Greece.—-Tinos.—The City of Syra.—An Illumination.
Steamer Apollo, June 20th.—We are to see no more of either
Palestine or Syria. It is time to set down the result of the impres-
sions received in them. As we neared the promontory of Sinai,
which divides the head of the Red Sea into the two gulfs of Akaba
and Suez, the thought occurred that we were approaching thi site
of the opening scene of the world’s civilization. The one half of
that site is Egypt, the other half Syria, including in ancient times,
as now, the two distinct divisions of Palestine and Pheenicia. We
find no satisfaction in the attempt to trace the nations which in-
habited these regions, either to a common origin or to distinct races
—at least we can do nothing of that kind here now. It is certain
that the ancient Egyptians were neither negroes from the west
bank of the Nile nor Arabs from the eastern shore of the Red Sea,
for they fought and conquered tribes and nations of both those re-
gions. The negroes and Arabs, like our North American Indian
races, prefer the desert and its habits to civilization. Neither were
the ancient Egyptians Jews. We distinguished the Jews from the
Egyptians in the paintings on the tombs, especially at Beni-Hassan.
RECE.
n Civilization. —Pheenicia and
the Jews.—Present State of
Nection.--Smyrna.— An Excur-
s Researches.— The Temple of
syra.——An Iumination.
, see no more of either
the result of the impres-
ye promontory of Sinai,
the two gulfs of Akabe
ere approaching the site
ation. The one half of
Juding in ancient times,
ine and Pheenicia. We
e the nations which in-
brigin or to distinct races
here now. It is certam
negroes from the west
yn shore of the Red Sea,
ations of both those re-
North American Indian
vilization. Neither were
mished the Jews from the
specially at Beni-Hassan.
Vestern type of the Cau-
THE EGYPTIAN RACE, 659
ceasian. race. The probability is, that some tribes of Northwestern
Asia found their way to the fertile plains of the Delta, and ex-
tended their settlements up the narrow valley of the Nile, conquer-
ing aboriginal peoples in the desert on either bank to the borders
of Nubia. Here the adventurers crowded into close contact, and,
threatened with invasions from either desert, as well as from the
savage African tribes of ancient Ethiopia, organized an indepen-
dent and isolated state. Its history shows that Egypt never had a
foreign ally, and that it was rarely ambitious of foreign conquest
or influence. The system of government was a theocracy, not
of one god, but of several or many gods, Its rulers were either
priests or chiefs, whom the priests confessed and reverenced as the
sons of gods. It is probable that no part of the human race was
ever without a spoken language, but the uncient Egyptians im-
proved this possession, which is common to all nations, by adding
to it the inventions of architecture, writing, painting, and sculp-
ture, inventions by which men not only could communicate their
ideas to those present with them, but could record them for the in-
struction and guidance of succeeding generations. They acquired
a sufficient astronomical science to mark the divisions of the year
and the seasons, and they acquired high practical skill in the irriga-
tion and cultivation of the earth. They developed a rude military
art, and naturally and easily acquired the little skill in navigation
which their inland situation required. An experience of the acci-
dents of the Nile taught them how, in the seasons of plenty, to
make provision against occasional famine.
The Egyptian «ation
went no further.
Their religion, the first known among men, ac-
cepted the intuitive suggestion of the human mind, that it cannot
altogether perish in death, but must at some time, and somewhere,
return to activity again. So the Egyptians contented themselves
with building temples worthy of the gods by whom they were pro-
tected, and monuments to commemorate the greatness of their
heroes, and with recording, in the most effective and enduring
manner possible, their national achievements, depositing the ree
ords in those imperishable temples and monuments; burying their
dead with such precautions as would preserve the body in safety,
‘st
Tegsee oh pe es F
£
i ez
ae
i
?
es
-
660 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
for the return of the wandering spirit which had left it, for three
thousand years.
Men and nations Lave many waats for which this unique system
of isolated Egyptian civilization made either no provision at all, or
no adequate one. The first of those wants, among a maritime
tribe or people, is commerce by navigation. Next, more cffective
caus of defence and aggression. It is not possible for tl.e human
race anywhere to remain long in the belief that they must con-
tinue passive subjects of a direct government of the gods. Men
can never be content with any one system of religion, or it: ex-
planations of their origin, their duties, and their destinies. They
continually demand and strive for a higher, purer, noblerone. The
human mind is never content with any system of education or
learning in the arts. It is constantly stiiving for a better and
more perfect one. Man is a social being, and needs society and
laws regulating social intercourse between states, tribes, and na-
tions, as much as between individuals.
These natural wants of human socicty found embodiment and
activity among that great people which is first known to us asa
civilized nation on the Mediterranean coast, under the name of
Phoenicians. It is certain that the Phoenicians were not Eegyp-
tians. It is equally clear that they were not Jews; for, from the
earliest mention of them by Jewish historians, they were aliens and
strangers, and sometimes enemies. But it is certain that, while
they occasionally derived knowledge and learning from Egypt, they
invented and perfected commerce and navigation, laws for society
at home, and laws for social intercourse with foreign nations.
They extended and diffused all their acquired information, knowl-
edge, and arts, to the inhabitants of Asia Minor, and of the Greek
islands. Phoenicia, therefore, was the cradle of a new civilization,
differing and distinct from that of Egypt. This civilization, im-
proved by Greece and Rome, is doubtless the basis of our own
modern Western civilization. Midway between those two great
original states, Egypt and Phoenicia, with their very diffe rent civil-
ization, arose a third state, distinct, different, and antagonistic to
both. This state was the Jewish nation, the people of Israel, who,
had left it, for three
ch this unique system
no provision at all, or
among a maritime
Next, more cffective
wasible for tle human
‘that they must con-
nt of the gods. Men
of religion, or its ex-
their destinies. They
rer, nobler one. The
ystem of education or
ving for a better and
and needs society and
states, tribes, and na-
y
ound embodiment and
irst known to us as a
st, under the name of
icians were not Egyp-
ot Jews; for, from the
ns, they were aliens and
ft is certain that, while
ming from Egypt, they
gation, laws for society
with foreign nations.
red information, know!
finor, and of the Greek
le of a new civilization,
This civilization, im-
5 the basis of our own
etween those two great
heir very diffe rent civil
nt, and antagonistic to
he people of Israel, who,
RELIGIOUS SYSTEMS. 661
as a single tribe, in a season of famine, entered Egypt for bread.
After a long struggle they obtained their deliverance, and, effecting
the conquest of that portion of the Mediterranean coast which lay
between Pheenicia on the one hand, and Egypt on the other,
founded the state known in ancient times, not less than in our
own, as Palestine. While they brought away from Egypt arts and
knowledge, they also readily adopted many of the improvements
and arts of the Phoenicians. Whether by Divine illumination or
otherwise, they reached the sublime truth of the unity of God, and,
arraying themselves in hostility against the Phoenicians and the
Egyptians, who both denied it, and adhered to their polytheistic
system, they became a distinct and independent people.
have held ever since to that simple and sublime faith.
What, then, does modern civilization owe to the Jewish na-
tion? Not letters, nor architecture, nor painting, nor sculpture,
nor philosophy, nor science, nor civil government. All these,
modern society has derived from the Pheenicians or the Egyptians,
or from both. But modern civilization derives its knowledge of
the relations of man toward his Maker, and the system of faith,
morals, and manners, built upon that knowledge, from the Jewish
nation. The religious systems now existing in the world are only
four: First, pagan, that of ancient Egypt; second, Jewish, that
of the Hebrews; third, Christian; fourth, Mohammedan. Jews,
Christians, and Mohammedans, all agree that the Jewish faith is
an advance above paganism. All equally agree that Christianity
is an advance above paganism. All equally agree that Mohamme-
danism, with all its errors, is an advance above paganism. But
the Jewish religion was established by the Jews alone—Christian-
ity comes to us as a gift from the Jewish nation—and even Mo-
hammedanism is only a perversion of Christianity, derived from
the Jews. Thus the world owes these three forms of religion di-
rectly or indirectly to the Jewish nation.
Now, it is to be noticed that all these three systems of religion
are favorable and effective in advancing human progress; that
however nations, which embrace either of these faiths, may decline,
yet the progress which they introduce is taken up and continued
48
They
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662 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
by other nations; whereas the civilization which is built upon a
system of pagan faith has been corrupted, and is becoming effete
everywhere. Continental Asia needs regeneration, and can obtain
it only through the agency of Western civilization derived frum the
Jewish nation. Western civilization is living and effective, and,
while it is progressing in the West, it is actively regenerating the
effete civilization of the East.
We have said that we owe neither science, nor government, nor
arts, nor arms, to the Jews; but all cousidcrate men will agree
that we have derived poctry from that people—if not the art of
poetry itself, at least that part of the art which is most sublime and
beneficent in its influences. Mcreover, to whom, but to the Jewish
nation, are we indebted for the civilization of domestic life and its
relations? Certainly not to Egypt. Ancient Egypt, indeed, occa-
sionally had queens, but no women. Neither her monuments, her
sculpture, ner her painting, present us with the idea of woman as
that idea has developed and culminated in a civilized age. Wher-
ever the pagan system prevails, throughout all Asia, woman is
unknown as a force or power in society. Nor can we trace the
domestic relation in its present form to Greece or Pheenicia, while
it was perfectly developed in the Jews as early as the time of our
Saviour. Heroic men have their discords in profane history, but it
is only in the sacred history of the Jews and of the Christians in
Jerusalem that we find Mary, Martha, Esther, Ruth, Naomi,
Rachel, and the daughter of Jephthah. There are two other obliga-
tions of modern suciety to the Jewish nation. While we do not
suppose that society has existed in any country without laws, yet it
was through the Jewish nation that we have received the deca-
logue, paramount in authority to all mercly conventional laws, as
well as superior in the comprehensiveness of its commands. Again,
while all nations have felt the necessity of occasional days of rest
and devotion as indispensable to society, it was the Jews who first
had the idea of resting on the seventh day and hallowing it.
The population of Palestine is estimated at only two hundred
thousand. It is scattered over mountains, which seem only min-
gled masses of rocks and ruins, with heve and there a smiling val-
ich is built upon a
1 is becoming effete
tion, and can obtain
ion derived frum the
y and effective, and,
>
ely regenerating the
nor government, nor
rate men will agree
e—if not the art of
1 is most sublime and
ym, but to the Jewish
> domestic life and its
t Egypt, indeed, occa-
r her monuments, her
the idea of woman as
sivilized age. Wher-
t all Asia, woman is
or can we trace the
ce or Pheenicia, while
rly as the time of our
profane history, but it
H of the Christians in
‘sther, Ruth, Naomi
4 are two other obliga-
n. While we do not
ry without laws, yet it
ve received the deca-
conventional laws, as
itscommands. Again,
pecasional days of rest
vas the Jews who first
d hallowing it.
at only two hundred
vhich seem only min-
d there a smiling val-
POVERTY OF JERUSALEM. 663
ley or dell, which in vain solicits society and cultivation. Jeru-
salem, without trade, without any organized society, without even
rich landed proprietors, is a congregation of ecclesiastics and me-
chanics or artisans, who subsist by supplying the few wants of the
annual crowds of religious pilgrims, generally poor, who come to
pay their vows at the sepulchre. Probably no town of an equal
population in the Alps or Rocky Mountains is so universally poor
as Jerusalem. In looking over the country now, travellers find it
difficult to conceive that it once sustained three millions of vigor-
ous, prosperous, and happy people. Travellers have two different
ways of accounting for this: a skeptical class conclude that the an-
cient glory and greatness of Palestine were exaggerated; another
class, pious and credulous, infer that the land has been wasted by a
scourge, a curse for the obduracy of its ancient people. The truth
doubtless is, that Palestine in the day of the Jewish nation was just
as it is described by her pocts and prophets : its valleys rejoiced in
corn and wine; its mountains were covered with olives, figs,
pomegranates, and mulberries, and even its rocky cliffs with flocks
and herds. For two thousand years, F'alestine has been a theatre
of civil war, and of foreign wars instigated by ambition, cupidity, re-
ligious propagandism, and persecution. Persians, Greeks, Romans,
Christians, Mussulmans, English, French, Turks, and Germans,
have all participated in these conflicts. Its ancient people, ex-
hausted, dispersed, impoverished, and desolated, have lcft the ter-
races on its mountains to go to waste, after being denuded of their
woody covering, while they have fled from and abandoned its thou-
sand villages for shelter in the rocks. We know not what has
become of the race which once made Palestine the pride and glory
of the world—they have mostly disappeared in these desolating
wars.
The Roman conquerors were content with subjugating the coun-
try; the Crusaders were neither agriculturists, shepherds, nor colo-
nists; and those who remained were merely monks and hermits.
Mussulman propagandism:employs only the exterminating sword,
and the Turk has extended into Palestine the barbarism which the
successful armies of the “ Prophet” established in every country
sss ff; el qe es
od
iss
AG i acasa
664 EGYPT AND PALESTINE,
where they appeared. The Bedouin Arabs followed the Moham-
medan conquerors, and there could be no safe or peaceful cultiva-
tion in the neighborhood of their tents. While this devastation
has in every century become more complete, the European nations
h iu as constantly moved with a desire for the regeneration
of Paiestine. This desire has manifested itself in two schemes very
different, and yet both equally impracticable.
The Jews expect the regeneration of Palestine through a provi-
dential restoration of themselves to the ancient city. The Chris-
tians look for the same happy consummation through the missionary
instruction of this discordant and wretched people. We would
disturb no benevolent religious hope, but it seems to us that the
ways appointed or allowed by Providence do not necessarily re-
quire the restoration of Jerusalem or of Palestine to the power and
prestige they enjoyed under the reign of Solomon, any more than
they require the restoration of Memphis and Egypt, of Athens and
Greece, of Rome and Italy. If Solomon could come again upon
the earth, and see the mocking Mosque of Omar on the site of the
glorious temple he built, and sce his royal gardens run to brambles
and weeds, and find, instead of the towers and palaces in which
he gloried, a city enclosing within a Turkish wall a mere huddle
of infidels—the Egypt which he feared, a solitude—the Ezion-geber,
whence he dispatched his ships to Ophir, a heap of sand—and
Lebanon covered with mulberries instead of cedars and firs, we
think he would concede that there is at last “something new under
the sun.” Nevertheless, it is only in one sense that there is change
from the past. Human nature and the human race are the same.
They change places, circumstances, and conditions, but their destiny
remains the same, and their progress toward -it is continuous and
onward. Empires and nations, as well as individuals, are mortal,
but the human race, for aught we know, is continuous on earth. In
modern times, at least, the work of human progress is carried on
chiefly by commerce and immigration ; perhaps it was always so.
Long before the fall of Jerusalem, “the star of empire” had begun
to move westward. It is likely to continue to move in the same
direction until it returns to the point in the heavens whence
lowed the Moham-
or peaceful cultiva-
ile this devastation
e European nations
or the regeneration
in two schemes very
ine through a provi-
nt city. The Chris-
rough the missionary
people. We would
sems to us that the
» not necessarily re-
ine to the power and
ymon, any more than
ieypt, of Athens and
ld come again upon
nar on the site of the
dens run to brambles
nd palaces in which
wall a mere huddle
de—the Ezion-geber,
bn heap of sand—and
cedars and firs, we
something new under
e that there is change
n race are the same.
ions, but their destiny
it is continuous and
dividuals, are mortal,
tinuous on earth. In
rogress is carried on
ps it was always so.
pf empire” had begun
to move in the same
the heavens whence
CYPRUS. 665
v
it took its departure. New capitals and new nations have alread
come into existence, and more will come before Palestine sted Jer :
salem will be restored. But this is not discouraging * any ie
hopes of the East. A slight improvement is het iniiettie
alaane off ‘oe . ;
eer bie elisa rai alteady exhibit some pleasing
serra p 08 planted by the always patient and enterprising
Germiuns. The more that new capitals and nations are built u in
the West, the more will the renewing, revivifying effect be ‘elt
in the East, and, without waiting for the establishment of re ublie
and Christianity in India and China, or even in Japan We a y a
civilized, enlightened Christian nations come into cere -
Palestine, as well as in Syria and in Egypt. | =
The Jewish improvement and Christian missions are not to be
rejected or undervalued. They will codperate in producing these
results, though insufficient in themselves to produce pict, The
Jewish endowments and Christian missions are, after all, only for-
eign charities. No nation ever was or can be sepeteuiied by mere
charity from abroad. But charity, going hand-in-hand with com-
merce and immigration, effects every thing. It has been so in the
Sandwich Islands, and in every part of America. Perhaps we need
to see Constantinople before we decide upon the important question
whether the empire of Turkey is beginning to yield to the renovat-
ing influences which reach it from the West. It is certain that
thus far in Palestine and Syria, as well as in Egypt, we find Mussul-
man bigotry modified, and Oriental prejudices declining. This is
an auspicious omen of the gradual improvement of Palestine. We
have seen, not only the railroad, but the ship-canal in Egypt, as
well as the turnpike-road and the telegraph in Palestine. Why
may we not expect to see the railroad as well as the telegraph in
Palestine ? How can there be telegraphs and railroads anywhere
withou’ progress and civilization ?
June 21st, off Cyprus.—The island of Cyprus, the Turkish out-
post in the Mediterranean, known to us only by the fervent poctic
descriptions of the ancients, and by the commercial reports of its
fruitfulness in modern times, was for us, as we suppose it is for all
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666 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
travellers, a disappointment. Its population, once a million, is now
only eighty thousand. Its first capital Paphos, now a mere village
on the beach—its later capital, Idalium, sunk into the earth, is now
visited only at Larnica, a dull modern Turkish village seaport, an
ugly town at the base of a broken range of sand-hills. Small
clusters of date-palms or orchards appear at intervals at the left of
the village, while a small strip of verdurg stretches behind the town
at the foot of the parched hills. They tell us here that they have
had no rain for three years, and the island is dried up. Exaggerated
as the description of it may have been by the ancients, it is never-
theless an island abounding in the richest and rarest of fruit. Not
only its figs, but its raisins and wine, are recognized as familiar
articles of commerce throughout the world. The United States
consul, General di Cesnola, entertained us during the morning,
and we had an opportunity to test the island proverb that ‘so
many days are added to one’s allotted term of.life, by every draught
of its delicious wine.” We did not quaff enough to add mucli to
our longevity, although
“The brown bees of Hymettus
Make their honey not so sweet.”
We were especially interested in a rare collection of antiques
which General di Cesnola has fortunately made. Purchasing a
piece of ground, once a farm, which proved to be part of the ancient
city of Idalium, and obtaining leave of the Turkish authorities to
dig, he has gone down through at Icast three cemeteries in tiers,
one above another, and has unearthed more than fourteen thou-
sand articles, from the tombs of successive generations, which flour-
ished through a period of probably two thousand years. Each one
of these relics has a great value for its rarity, but the aggregate
collection has a peculiar and even a more curious one, because it
presents works of art and taste, statues, tablets, busts, vases, lamps,
coins, and inscriptions, utensils and ornaments of gold, silver, glass,
and terra-cotta, in a combination that, like a series of chronological
tables, illustrates the history not only of Cyprus, but of civilization
itself.
ce a million, is now
now a mere village
to the earth, is now
. village seaport, an
* sand-hills. Small
ervals at the left of
hes behind the town
here that they have
edup. Exaggerated
ancients, it is never-
rarest of fruit. Not
cognized as familiar
The United States
juring the morning,
nd proverb that “so
life, by every draught
ough to add much to
1s
eet.”
collection of antiques
made. Purchasing 4
be part of the ancient
urkish authorities to
ee cemeteries in tiers,
e than fourteen thou-
nerations, which flour-
band years. Each one
ity, but the agaregate
urious one, because it
bts, busts, Vases, lainps,
ts of gold, silver, glass,
series of chronological
prus, but of civilization
SMYRNA,
667
The lowest stratum is a collection of articles as low and rude as
the attempts at carving and sculpture of the North-American In-
dians. These were either made by or copied from the ancient
Egyptians and Assyrians. Then comes the next stratum, compris-
ing the improved works of art of the Phoenicians, nearer neighbors
to Cyprus, and historically recognized as its colonizers, Next
come relics of the Persians; next after them, in the ascending
series, are those of the Greeks, among which are works of statuary
and carving not unworthy of the times of Pericles and Phidias;
then those of the era os Alexander ; lastly, those of the period of
the Roman emperors.
There is a remarkable unity, however, running through the
whole of these relics. In every layer of them were found mani-
fold figures of Venus, the guardian goddess of the Cyprians, in
every attitude and association, from a plate of copper roughly
shapen into a human form to the Goddess of Love rising from the
wave in the conch-shell at Paphos, or attended by her son Cupid in
her triumphal car, drawn by gentle doves, graceful swans, or active
little sparrows. We noticed no Christian relics. Paul and Bar-
nabas labored here. The latter was a native of Cyprus, but doubt-
less their contemporaries and followers had modes of sepulture dif-
ferent from those of the pagans. It is sincerely to be hoped that
this valuable collection will be secured by some museum or archmo-
logical society in the United States.’
Smyrna, June 24th.—Smyrna, the ancient queen of Ionia,
which, according to the historical accounts, has slidden down the
rocky coast to the level beach, presents a scene of life and activity
unusual in the East. The harbor and wharves are filled with light
and graceful shipping. We mistook for a mod:tn Turkish fortifica-
tion the ruins of a Venetian fort on a cliff which overhangs the
city with picturesque effect. Near the summit is the cave-tomb
which is consecrated in Christian affections as the tomb of Poly-
carp, native bishop and martyr of Smyrna. The town, stretching
1 Since this was written, the Cesnola collection has been purchased for the Metropoli-
tan Museum of Art, and is now (1873) in New York.
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668 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
a mile along the curving shore, seems nearly embowered in orange-
orchards and cypress-groves. On near approach, an ancient part
of the town wears the dull aspect of age and neglect, but there is a
new quarter which exhibits elegant structures, indicative of com-
mercial prosperity and enterprise. This improvement, together
with a railroad just constructed, excites some hope that Greece, so
long dead, may live again. The government estimate of the popu-
lation is one hundred and fifty thousand; we think it one hundred
thousand.
Here, as in other Turkish ports, the authorities, with the United
States consul, came on board to receive Mr. Seward, and gave him
on shore a demonstrative welcome. We lose no time in making an
excursion by railroad this afternoon to the ruins of Ephesus.
Smyrna is situated nearly midway on a promontory which pro-
jects into the Augean. Ephesus is fifty miles southeast, at the head
of the bay, and at the mouth of the Meander, while Samos, at the
opening of the bay, commands both ports.
The country between Smyrna and Ephesus, even under Turkish
rule, is highly cultivated with cereals and fruits. At this season it
is brightly pink and green with wild oleanders and grain-fields,
while it is not without the embellishment of ornamental villas and
many pretty villages.
Guides, horses, and grooms, were in waiting, in pursuance of
telegraphic instructions, at the station. We rode in the rosy light
of sunset across the low banks of the Meander, a marsh now, as it
was two thousand years ago. The bay affords a magnificent har-
bor, with distant views of Samos and Scio.
Ephesus stood on a plain broken by hills, high but easy of
ascent. The famous Temple of Diana is represented by the an-
cients as having been conspicuous in the approach to the city from
the sea. Probably all or most of the public edifices stood on the
summits of the hills, while the lower grounds, not less than the hills
themselves, were oecupied with dwellings and shops.
There is no reason to doubt that Ephesus wore a noble as well
as a cheerful aspect. Within the entire area of the ancient city
there is not now found one human habitation. There are ruins,
nbowered in orange-
ich, an ancient part
eglect, but there is 2
, indicative of com-
provement, together
hope that Greece, so
estimate of the popu-
think it one hundred
‘ities, with the United
eward, and gave him
no time in making an
ins of Ephesus.
romontory which pro-
southeast, at the head
r, while Samos, at the
18, even under Turkish
its. At this season it
ders and grain-fields,
ornamental villas and
iting, in pursuance of
} rode in the rosy light
Her, a marsh now, as it
rds a magnificent har-
hills, high but easy of
epresented by the an-
roach to the city from
edifices stood on the
s, not less than the hills
d shops.
s wore a noble as well
rea of the ancient city
tion. There are ruins,
CAVE OF THE “SEVEN SLEEPERS.”
669
but nothing more, nothi $ i
a sete : eee Nee patoene that area, we found
pace eae s had been made, which had left frag.
arble columns scattered in all dircctions. © ae
not without some danger, the gapi i ee
aA eoes ger, gaping pits made by these excava-
oe : ies i one of hill-sides, the cemetery of the Ephe-
ans. , some single alcoves oY
= in the solid route, The oe sae ere ie
| eae: ; as as-
ao ate rca guide to be the tomb of St. Luke. But our
eae ae Hat : ag give us any satisfactory account of the
eat ae t at apostle. Descending from the hill, we
aaa p RPC dell, where an angle of the precipice
been cut away and two large chambers excavated, one of tl
having a vaulted Grecian roof. We could not entijactn tl és
sign of this grotto, overhung with tangled ‘habe ana ‘ ia, a
seemed too airy and graceful for a tomb, too inner’ a
bre for a dwelling, and too small for atemple. Our wilde waived
ie difficulty with ease. He said it was the identiaal cave of the
even Sleepers.” He did not know when the seven sleepers
went to sleep or why. Fortunately, our early reading of r a
supplied us with the pretty legend. poe necest
Seven noble youths, who had embraced Christianity in the third
century at Ephesus, were walled up in this cave, together wi h
faithful dog. After resting there two centuries this. wail a =
moved—and here the legend divides: One veiot is facies
showed themselves to the people, and went on their sue vel viel ms
the dog as jubilant as the rest. The Mohammedan fas i
though their bodies were found, their spirits ascended to ie
and that there they, as well as the good dog, yet live and flow ‘ch,
in immortal youth; the latter having for ‘iis s ciety in nnd :
several other noble brutes, namely, the ram that Abpehets . re
ficed instead of his son Isaac, Baalam’s remonstrating ass Siena
which the Saviour rode on his triumphal entry into J arawal et a
the mare which Mohammed rode in his ascent to paradise.
aly rine Christians, apparently not less superstitious than
rethren of Rome, have stuccoed the cave, and converted it
into a chapel in honor of one of their modern saints. These mau-
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670 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
soleums of Ephesus were remarkable for being less spacious and
more tasteful in architecture and ornament than those of Egypt
and Palestine. No one of them is finished without the use of the
curved line.
Passing down and around this hill-cemetery, we confronted, on
another eminence, the ruins of a vast and massive circular edifice.
The wall is constructed of stones as large and well hewn as those
in the wall of the wailing-place at Jerusalem, but heaps of small
stones, bricks, and mortar, are mingled with them, which indicate
either the frugal age of architecture, or at least the time when the
Roman conquerors of Ephesus repaired the structure. Broken
marble columns, architraves, and cornices, half covered by rubbish,
prove the dignity of this edifice, and archeologists have decided
that it was the stadium of the city—a place used for popular and
municipal assemblies.
Winding our way around the base of the same eminence, we
reached another ruin, far more beautifv’ and, at the same time,
unmistakable in its design. It is the ruin of an amphitheatre,
small indeed, but constructed entirely of fine white marble. The
basement-story, subdivided into halls, corridors, and chambers, is
still perfect, and the semicircular rows of seats, rising toward the
sides, would be comfortable for an audience even now. All the
other parts of the little theatre, including the walls, columns, roof,
and cornices, have fallen into the area, but the fragments of each
part may easily be distinguished. An architect would find no dif-
ficulty in rebuilding the theatre in its original form and propor-
tions. But this is not the only place of popular amusement. Sepa-
rated from this theatre only by an avenue of well-worn tessellated
pavement, we came to the ruin of another amphitheatre four times
more spacious than the first, the model the same, the material the
same, but more exquisitely wrought. The seats must have been
sufficient to accommodate thirty thousand spectators. The outer
door-ways remain unbroken. On their white-marble jambs, in
pure ancient Greek, in letters perfectly legible, as if engraved yes-
terday, are the police rules for the conduct of the theatre, and even
the names of the dramatis persone. The vaulted chambers for the
1g less spacious and
than those of Egypt
ithout the use of the
y, we confronted, on
ssive circular edifice.
d well hewn as those
1, but heaps of small
them, which indicate
ist the time when the
structure. Broken
f covered by rubbish,
ologists have decided
used for popular and
e same eminence, we
1d, at the same time,
of an amphitheatre,
white marble. The
ors, and chambers, is
ats, rising toward the
even now. All the
walls, columns, roof,
the fragments of cach
tect would find no dif-
nal form and propor-
lar amusement. Sepa-
well-worn tessellated
phitheatre four times
same, the material the
keats must have been
spectators. The outer
hite-marble jambs, in
ble, as if engraved yes-
the theatre, and even
ilted chambers for the
EPHESUS, 671
confinement of the wild beasts, with arched passages leading from
them into the arena, remain in perfect preservation. Taking our
places on the upper tier, and looking down upon the space now
covered with the confused mass of broken marble columns, walls,
and statuary, we said to ourselves, This, if not the adjoining ruin,
must be “the theatre into which the people rushed, with one ac-
cord,’ when Paul alarmed Demetrius, the silversmith “which
made silver shrines for Diana,” together with the workmen of like
occupation, by preaching that “they be no gods which are made
with hands.”
And, since we find here the cages of the beasts and the arena,
this surely is the place where Paul “fought with beasts at Ephe-
sus.” So it was trom the beginning, and go it will be to the end.
The proudest work of man’s hands must perish and disappear from
the earth, while no thcught of God’s can ever die. Though we
cannot identify even the grave of one of the thousands to whom
Paul preached the unity and spirituality of God, nor can we trace
his remains to their final resting-place, yet his utterance of that
divine truth already encircles the earth, and, if the soul of man be
immortal, must survive the carth itself.
Thus far we felt that we were treading on tolerably safe ground
in exploring the history of Ephesus. Now, however, on looking
off toward the sea, we saw, on the northern promontory, a cir-
cular, castellated tower, which certainly is not as old as the Pyra-
mids nor as new as Fortress Monroe. Inquiring what it was, we
were answered that it was “St. Paul’s prison.” It is more prob-
ably the ruin of a Saracenic (possiblv a Roman) watch-tower. We
next passed over an elevated plain designated, perhaps not without
reason, as a field of gymnastic exercises similar to the Olympic
games,
Ephesus, so completely ruined, is now nearly lost sight of by
travellers; but an English gentleman, Mr. Wood, is here conduct-
ing researches for the British Museum. THe believes he has recently
discovered, by unmistakable signs, the site of the temple dedicated
to the worship “of the great goddess Diana, and of the image
which fell down from Jupiter.” Mr. Wood is said to have care-
oe
AM MENA iinet
Ano
THE ISLES OF GREECE. 663
fully covered the columns which he has discovered, a service to his-
tory for which he does not receive the thanks of the guides or the
few tourists who penetrate to Ephesus.
We left Ephesus under the beams of a crescent moon (though not
as the Turks paint it, with Venus between its horns), and reached
the hospitable home of our consul, Mr. Smithers, at midnight.
It wis the eve of St. John, and, late as the hour was, the en-
tire population was in the streets, which were blazing with bon-
fires. We are not surprised at this devout reverence paid to his
memory, for we recall the fact that the apostolic missionaries, when
they first came to Ephesus, found there Jews who practised the rite
of baptism, but knew only the baptism of Jolin.
Grecian Archipelago, June 24th.—Pleasant courtesies were ex-
changed between Mr. Seward and the Turkish authorities at
Smyrna. We parted here with our excellent friend Betts Bey,
and reémbarked, at four o’clock, on the steamer -.pollo.
June 25th.—“ The isles of Greece” cannot be studied in their
present sober and commonplace reality. A poctic atmosphere per-
vades them, and they rise before you, not in their present real dul-
ness and isolation, but in the life and glowing warmth in which
they have been sung by Homer and Byron.
What a pretty, white village is this of Tinos which we are pass-
ing, with the hills behind it terraced to their summits with orange-
orchards and vineyards! Green little Delos, rising gracefully from
the sea as we are gliding past, tempts us to go ashore and search
among its hills for the remains of the Temple of Apollo, so famous
for its sanctity. Syra has modern beauty that gives it a charm,
needing nothing from antiquity to make it ‘tractive. Little of
Syra is ever read or heard of in the West, except that it is a mid-
way station of exchange of products between the Greek ports. A
town of five thousand dwellings is built on the face of a triple hill,
the streets horizontal and parallel, one above another, so that, from
the deck of our steamer in the harbor, we look into the door of every
house in the city. Belonging to Greece, the island is inhabited ex-
clusively by Christians. For the first time since we arrived in Japan,
674 EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
nine months ago, pagan temples and Mosiem mosques have disap-
peared, and Christianity contronts neither dissent nor opposition.
Mr. Seward was received by the Greek governor and United
——s ee ee
a ee!
A GREEK OFFICIAL,
ze
» Sa
States consul, and our party enjoyed a delightful promenade con-
cert in the small public square, where it seemed as if all the inhabi-
tants had come out for evening recreation, news, coffee, and ices.
The Greek costumes of both sexes, more artistic than any in the
world, imparted a poetic air to the scene.
We embarked at seven o’clock, the last hour which the regula-
tions allow fora stay in port. The steamer lingered unaccountably,
As night came on, fires were seen creeping along the rocky terraces
of the triple hill. These bonfires increasing for a timiec, at last
gave way toa pillar of fire near the summit. There were rockcts
and balloons, and at length the beautiful Church of St. George,
Fre 4x00 ee
a ed = fs
% oa eQety i —~
3
AN ILLUMINATION,
675
which crown ‘
en 8 = highest and central conicat hill, flashed f
aze ot re } : ' abi » Hashe? orth 3
an illuminati aes and blue lights. We had bee . -
illumination in honor of Mr. Seward’s visit ad been detained for
Tle has m © Nahe
‘ et here s 2
daca cue: ome of the survivors of the emissarics wl
1897, This illum! ates to secure aid for the Greek Rev 1 f wae
umination was -volution in
as a consequence of hi
the Greck eat quence of his symp: ‘
ause. Compari s sympathy with
° ‘ hg notes vy J
$s with thes . ess
enjoyed the pleasi ; ese revolutionists, tl
leasing retlecti ists, they
5 on that, altl ; ‘
for the recov , though their s: :
eover of a . 5 sanguine ho eg
ere ; Vv ll Greece had not been accom lished ; pes
‘ inconsiderable part of r : plished, yet that
‘landa: had } ancient Greece, main-land ll
» 1ad been restor , am-land as well as
es § f
marge eae wt fie i to independence and Christianity ; a ‘
‘ 1e Greek peopl ‘ pe 5 AN
. ‘ oe We are 71
practical civil and religi ; p enjoying a measure of
Pericles gious liberty unknown since tl .
icles, and one which could not have b ce the days of
“1° o e} 217 .
Alcibiades or Demosthenes en conceived by either
mosques have disap-
nt nor opposition.
yvernor and United
ightful promenade con-
med as if all the inhabi-
, news, coffee, and ices.
wrtistic than any in the
hour which the regula
lingered unaccountably.
along the rocky terraces
sing for a tinie, at last
hit. ‘There were rockets
Church of St. George,
A
GROUP OF HEADS FROM THE CESNOLA COLLECTION
CHAPTER I.
ATHENS AND CONSTANTINOPLE.
Athens.—The Pireus.—The Hymettus.—The Ilyssus.—Mr, Tuckerman.—Queen Olga,
—Grecian Ruins compared with those of Egypt and Hindostan.—Modern Greece,
the Mexico of Europe.—The Sea of Marmora.—Taking Constantinople by Surprise.
—A Contre-Temps.—Al’s Well that Ends Well.—The Sultan Abdul-Aziz.—A Busy
Day.—Excursions.—Charms of Constantinople.—The Old Seraglio—Fourth of July.
—Robert College.—The Bosporus.—Turkish Women.—The New Palace.—Untimely
Visit.—Kiamil Pacha,—Andience with the Sultan.—Departure from Constantinople.
Athens, June 28th.—We have “done” Athens in thirty-six
hours, because we have no more hours to do it in. Although we
feel somewhat the worse for it, there is no sign that Athens has
suffered. Our keen appetite for antiques and eccentricities of hu-
man progress has been dulled. It seems to us now that, here in
Greece, instead of continuing our progress down the stream of the
old civilization of the world, we are beginning to ascend the tide
of a new one.
We arrived at six yesterday mczning, at the Pireus, the port
of modern Athens, but no longer walled and fortified as in the
days of Pericles. It was not without a feeling of awe, almost of
reverence, that we recognized, in the mountain-chain which borders
the plain we are entering, the ancient Hymettus, and the whole
glorious though brief history of Athenian greatness rushed upon
us as we looked upon the more distant range which outlines the
Peloponnesus. Deviating from the direct road, we approached the
city through one of those vast cemeteries by which historians tell
us it was entirely surrounded outside of the ancient walls. Strange
to say, the cemetery has a pleasing rather than a melancholy as-
ro
Lane
&
&
bis
——
Gacy
ESE sq omens F
=
ad
¥
a Gi aie
Fe
AG
zr.
7
680 EUROPE.
pect. No gaping vaults, no revolting mummies, no tombs, no sar-
cophagi, are here. All excavations have been filled up and lev-
celled, while the moxuments which covered them have been gath-
ered and carefully arranged. ‘The monuments, in no case colossal,
consist of marble statuary, and tablets engraved and inscribed in
alto-rilievo. The execution in all cases is exquisite, the design al-
ways touching and simple.
Modern Athens is a town of fifty thousand inhabitants, A1-
though it retains and preserves most interesting and wonderful
monuments of the past, it is nevertheless purely European, and has
put the ancient world of Africa and Asia out of sight. Its streets
are of comfortable width, well paved; its buildings, with few ex-
A GREEK WOMAN,
ceptions, are modern, but crowded too densely. We took lodgings
at the Hotel d’Angleterre, at the foot of the beautiful gardens of
no tombs, no sar-
filled up and lev-
1 have been gith-
in no case colossal,
d and inscribed in
jsite, the design al-
.d inhabitants. Al-
ting and wonderful
y European, and has
of sight. Its streets
ildings, with few ex-
ply. We took lodgings
e beautiful gardens of
BRIDGE AT ELEUSIS. 651
the Royal Palace. The fields round Athens are brown from a long
drought, but the monotony is relieved by a wide belt of olive-trees
BRIDGE AT ELEUSIS,
which stretch behind the city, and in the valley quite to the foot of
Hymettus. The cloudless atmosphere imparts to the mountains
that deep-azure hue which enthusiastic writers call the “ violet
crown” of Athens. The Ilyssus, like most of the classic streams
of Europe, is a disappointment to the American traveller.
as
a FRG
imae 8223
b Rakin iP Sell
we,
ri
w
we
€
he
&.
th
ro
<a <x st ew ®
Steptoe w SOG
ped
> =
soe Dm, sm eee
FUE?
AGE ais ve
a
682 EUROPE.
June 28th.—Mr. Tuckerman, the able and accomplished United
States minister, being absent from Greece, had arranged with the
ministry in regard to Mr. Seward’s reception, and had left the
legation in the care of the United States consul, charged with the
duty of announcing Mr. Seward’s arrival. The consul met us at
the Pirseus, and has assiduously attended us during our stay in
Athens. On our return last night from an excursion to Eleusis,
we found a note from the chamberlain appointing eleven o’clock
this morning for an audience with Queen Olga in the absence of
the king, who is on a visit to Copenhagen.
Lhe palace is entirely modern and European. The young queen
was gracious ; she is intelligent, pleasing, and beautiful. Speaking
English perfectly, she left nothing unsaid which she could have
said of her consideration for Mr. Seward, or of appreciation of his
visit to Greece. And she expressed herself as having no wish so
near her heart as that of seeing the United States—a nation whom
her father, the Grand-duke Constantine of Russia, had taught her
to respect and admire.
Grecian ruins, seen so soon after our explorations of those of
Kgypt and Hindostan, suggest the reflection that in the early age
of Egypt human labor and means of subsistence, as well as materials
for building, were plentiful and cheap, while the edifices to be con-
structed were only temples and tombs. At the same time, the gov-
ernment was not merely absolute, but despotic. Art and science
had not been taxed to discover the smallest amount of materials or
labor with which an enduring structure could be built. Under
these circumstances, the Egyptian pyramids, temples, and tombs,
were of great and even gigantic dimensions. The Pheenicians, the
Jews, and the Greeks, coming later, found the necessity for ccon-
omy of labor and materials, while the greater independence of the
people obliged the governments to practise frugality, and to perfect
science adapted to that frugality. The Grecks, therefore, while
they gathered their models from Egypt, reduced their designs from
the colossal to the practical, and substituted, for massiveness, orna-
ment and beauty. Moreover, architecture and the arts of design,
in Egypt, were a priestly monopoly, and subject to exact regula-
complished United
arranged with the
, and had left the
1, charged with the
e consul met us at
during our stay in
xcursion to Eleusis,
iting eleven o’clock
, in the absence of
1. The young queen
peautiful. Speaking
Jnich she could have
of appreciation of his
as having 0 wish so
tates—a nation whom
Russia, had taught her
plorations of those of
that in the early age
hce, as well as materials
the edifices to be con-
the same time, the gov-
otic. Art and science
amount of materials or
fould be built. Under
ic, temples, and tombs,
The Pheenicians, the
the necessity for econ:
er independence of the
frugality, and to perfect
svecks, therefore, while
huced their designs from
|, for massiveness, Orna-
and the arts of design,
subject to exact regula:
THE TEMPLE OF VICTORY.
O85
tion—the
peo le of Eo ‘
arts passed ae Fe evr" had no share inthem. In G
xUE rom the gover . axreece tl
: government t ae
study a prid o the pe
, a pride, and a profit, i people, and became :
ete ea : a profit, in which all the citize ae nie ‘
: ‘ent that Egy zens could share
se Slacoanellyy-ahanlitaet sy pe never perfected the Grecian w cial
Beara Keni st that Greece could never hav ork, SO
‘ , Karnak, or the Tombs of the Kit Ea e produced the
aRexs) 4
oY tach Was th
as the proper
Ly 0
11E TEMPLE OF VICTORY, ATHENS
work of a disti
: ar
net stage of human civilization. Absurd I
lon, d as was the
Ads Css 5 ch e ft d
9 € d
5 9 1a f E 5
v Oe « C e
were designed t
gned to .
gave, therefore produce, the impression of terror and awe ; they
, re, no scope fi : : ) a: :
’ or pleasing lin
r lines of beauty, f '
auty, for delicate
684 EUROPE.
traces of art, or for tints and hues of coloring. Grecian architect-
ure, on the contrary, was as joyous as the Greek mythology.
How did it happen that the freedom and the power of ancient
Greece were so transient ?
It was due to the fact that Greece, being subdivided into small
states and islands, mutually jealous of each other, proved incapable
of maintaining one central national authority adequate to pro-
tection against dangers from without or security against revolu-
tion within. Greece had a free, intellectual, and enlightened peo-
ple. Their philosophers, orators, and statesmen, seem to have been
conscious of this, for they studied less the glory and grandeur of
the Greeks themselves than the universal advancement of man-
kind. For this they have their reward. Whatever the moderns
have, either of government, science, art, or literature, all confess
that it is traceable to the Greeks. Even when we are extending the
domain of science, and demanding names for newly-discovered sub-
stances, powers, forces, and qualities, we turn unhesitatingly to the
full and expansive Greek language for a new technology. How
little the ancient Grecks thought that, when we should have ac-
quired the power of compelling the lightning to transmit our
thoughts, we should be obliged to borrow from them the name of
the instrument of communication! How little did they imagine
that, when we should acquire the power to compel the sun to paint
for us, we should resort to them for the name of the newly-invented
instrument and art!
Modern Greece is the Mexico of Europe—new, experimental,
and unreliable, requiring forbearance, patience, and protection;
but, having all these, its condition is hopeful. It has, at least, got
rid of Turkish despotism and Mohammedan superstition. Greece
will probably become greater, and its present monarchy may be
regarded as what Lafayette proposed the government of Louis
Philippe should be—a monarchy surrounded with republican insti-
tutions, and an introduction to the republic itself.
Constantinople, June 29th.—This morning we were in the Sea
of Marmora, surrounded by beautiful islands, and at eleven o’clock
Grecian architect-
Greek mythology.
power of ancient
rbdivided into small
er, proved incapable
ty adequate to pro-
rity against revolu-
ind enlightened peo-
n, seem to have been
ory and orandeur of
dvancement of man-
atever the moderns
literature, all confess
we are extending the
newly-discovered sub-
\ unhesitatingly to the
ow technology. How
1 we should have ac-
ming to transmit our
bm them the name of
ittle did they imagine
ompel the sun to paint
of the newly-invented
he—new, experimental,
fence, and protection ;
1. It has, at least, got
superstition. Greece
ent monarchy may be
government of Louis
with republican instr
itself.
ng we were in the Sea
s, and at eleven o'clock
A SINGULAR RECEPTION. 685
fet)
re rounded the base of the Seven Towers and beheld St. Sophia’s
lofty dome, the old Seraglio, the new Imperial Palace, and, crossing
the mouth of the Golden Horn, anchored in the Bosporus under
the crowded, towering shore of Pera. |
We did what no invader could have done in the time of Belisa-
rius, for we took Constantinople by surprise. Although Mr. Sew-
ard came as an invited guest of the Sultan, and although the
United States legation had corresponded with him in India and
Egypt about the time of his coming, neither crescent nor stars and
stripes from the shore answered the signal which waved trom the
mast-head of the Wien. What could it mean? We lingered an
hour on the deck. A mythical person presented himself, speaking
very imperfect English, and informed us that apartments were, to
his certain knowledge, provided for us by the Government at the
Hotel d’Angleterre. This information coincided with the letter
which Mr. Seward had received when in China trom Blacque Bey,
written by direction of the grand-vizier. Weary of the sea, and
impatient under a cold shower of the first rain we had experienced
since our arrival at Calcutta in March, we availed ourselves of the
captain’s kindness, and went ashore in his gig. Landing, and clam-
bering over heaps of stones, we took shelter from the rain in an
open shed which served as a café for the market men who thronged
the beach. Two rickety one-horse carriages were all that could be
found in which to make our entrance. We secured both. Leaving
one of them to the servants, we three passengers crowded ourselves
into the other. We had scarcely commenced our ascent, when we
collided with a timber-cart coming down the same steep, narrow
road. Extricating ourselves, we took the sidewalk, and proceeded
safely enough, until the overtaxed horse gave out, and we com-
pleted our journey on foot in the drizzling rain.
We reached the Hotel d’Angleterre unexpected guests. The
telegraph had announced that we would come to-morrow. But
the keeper of the hotel would do his best; he was sure he was to
entertain us on behalf of the Porte, and he would endeavor to do
it as well as possible. It soon turned out that the reception which
had been arranged for Mr. Seward fell to those whom we had left
686 EUROPE.
behind. The Minister of Foreign Affairs, informed of the United
States flag raised on the Wien, dispatched a guard of honor to the
wharf. The guard met the servants in their calash, with the lug-
gage on carts, winding their way to the imperial custom-house.
The guard divided to the right and left, and, with due solemnity
and respect, escorted Jenny Corell, Arthur Price, and William
Freeman, to the entrance of the Hotel d’Angleterre. Half an
hour afterward the grand-chamberlain, and the United States
chargé Maffaires, John P. Brown, and the United States marshal,
Mr. Thompson, arrived, and explanations were duly made. The
telegraph from Athens, announcing that we had sailed, was without
date, and was not put on the wire until we were passing the Iel-
lespont. The apology offered was made the more scothing for us
by the statement of the lord-chamberlain that precisely the same
mistake occurred on the arrival of the Empress Eugénie last year.
The manner of the contre-temps was different in the two cases. In
that of the empress, the grand-vizier with his war-steamer went
out to meet the French imperial frigate on which she was coming.
But, unfortunately, the two vessels passed each other unobserved,
so that she was already at Constantinople while he was vainly look-
ing for her in the Sea of Marmora.
“ All’s well,” however, “that ends well!” The Turkish Gov-
ernment had subsequently designated another, and as they thought
a finer hotel. But, Mr. Seward being content with the Hotel
d’ Angleterre, especially after learning that our host was the “ Mys-
seri” of Kinglake’s “ Eéthen,” we remain here.
The highest effect of Constantinople is produced by its tout en-
semble. It has many different and noble aspects from various stand-
points, but in every case the whole is seen at once, and it is this
whole that constitutes the marvellous beauty of the city.
PRE
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June 30th.—Why is it that the strongest curiosity of travellers,
even of republican travellers more than others, is to see princes?
Whatever the rearon may be, this is not only a secret of the art of
history, but also of the dramatic art. Hamlet and Lear and Richard
are all the more interesting for being princes.
vF
wi
a ae
med of the United
1rd of honor to the
lash, with the lug-
erial custom-house.
with due solemnity
Price, and William
igleterre. Half an
the United States
‘ted States marshal,
-e duly made. The
d sailed, was without
we passing the Hel-
nore scothing for us
t precisely the same
ss Lugénie last year.
in the two cases. In
‘ig war-steamer went
hich she was coming.
ch other unobserved,
le he was vainly look-
> The Turkish Gov-
r, and as they thought
tent with the Hotel
y host was the “ Mys-
re.
roduced by its coud en-
its from various stand-
At once, and it is this
of the city.
curiosity of travellers,
hers, is to sec princes!
;a secret of the art of
and Lear and Richard
SEEING THE SULTAN,
OST
Aithough we had no reason to suppose that l
suppose that royalty her
Fes me ae yalty here, more
an elsewhere, would conceal its visage from us, y ian
to see the Sultan Abdul-Aziz in a aie ead pied
: ys L, a pageant 7 y :
Ce es 1 geant to-day, and perhaps on
: , at least in the judgment of tl
portion of our party, to be lost. S ae eat reg
\ . Successor of the cali
Sultan is the spiritual as eae
: spiritual as well as tempora: head of Islam if thi
character he goes i ic pr ion f | cats “
ste goes in public procession from his palace at twelve
o'clock every Friday, cither eat
; ery Friday, either on horseback or in a barge, to off
es a j a’ barge, to oiler
prayers for the faithful in one of the principal Thi
tom is one of very ancicnt standi ee
een standing, and is mentioned by travellers
: 2 3 ss d JAC i? Ss
a : T : s as early as the fifteenth century, though it is prob
ven m ( . ae
y uch older than that. It affords an opportunity of s
ing the Sultan of which nearly all strangers avail ti ] a
ie : y all strangers avail themselves, We
- two imperial carriages awaiting us at the door of our hotel
= ‘ * hote
them, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Brown, we were dri
into the str ae : : ’ ariven
treet before the gate of the imperial residence. Our party
. (
ALBANIAN COSTUME,
was n i i
r a among the many curious strangers whose car
riage i diy
os thronged the way, to witness the pageant, and we were
near in findi i 1
arly an hour in finding a suitable stand. The palace clock had
cox se gees Gar TT Tt
pipe
frees
688 EUROPE.
been set back, and, an hour and a half after high noon struck the
equivalent of twelve in Turkish time, Abdul-Aziz issued from the
gate, dressed in the magnificent costume which is equally the uni-
form of the civil and military service of Turkey. He was mounted
on a noble white Arabian steed, caparisoned in gold and velvet.
A squadron o: cavalry, with a sonorous flourish of trumpets, opened
the way, and another covered the rear. His majesty was attended
by all the ministers of the Porte on horseback, and surrounded by
a guard of Albanian officers on foot. These wore jackets, caps, and
gaiters, of maroon-velvet and gold, and full, spotless white skirts
reaching the knee—said to be the most exquisite costume in the
world. Their shining, silver cimeters and pistols are worn in a
broad sash. The Sultan is a stout, well-formed man, forty-seven
years old, with a pleasing and amiable though not impressive coun-
tenance. His hair is slightly gray, and he is said to dislike the
national fez, which he wears very small. He rides remarkably well,
like a soldier accustomed to the saddle. Tis bland smile when
passing our carriages, which indeed he might have known by the
imperial livery to be his own, indicated to Mr. Brown that he had
the honor of being personally recognized, although he failed in the
attempt to flatter Mr. Seward with the belief that he shared in that
honor.
Being assured that the presence of Christians at the official ser-
vices of the mosque would be popularly regarded as intrusive by the
Moslems, it only remained for us to leave the ground as soon as
the imperial pageant had passed. We observed that not only the
ministers, but the military officers, and even our excellent friend
Mr. Brown, betrayed sentiments of awe and reverence during the
progress; while, on the other hand, the people “ of the baser sort,”
Turks as they are, manifested neither sympathy with the proces.
sion, nor homage for the sovereign, but were as free and indifferent
in their demeanor as a crowd of spectators at a military parade in
the United States.
July 1st.—Mr. Seward has had a busy day. He has exchanged
visits with Server Pacha, Minister of Foreign A fairs, and acting
igh noon struck the
Aziz issued from the
h is equally the uni-
y. He was mounted
in gold and velvet.
1 of trumpets, opened
majesty was attended
k, and surrounded by
vore jackets, caps, and
spotless white skirts
uisite costume in the
pistols are worn in a
med man, forty-seven
h not impressive coun-
is said to dislike the
rides remarkably well,
Tis bland smile when
ht have known by the
[r. Brown that he had
hough he failed in the
F that he shared in that
tians at the official ser-
“ded as intrusive by the
the ground as soon as
ved that not only the
n our excellent friend
1 reverence during the
ble “of the baser sort,”
pathy with the proces
as free and indifferent
at a military parade in
ay. He has exchanged
ign A fairs, and acting
CONSTANTINOPLE,
689
grand-vizier, in the place of Ali Pacha, who, lc isti
last succumbed under an illness whicl sie (ae ea ee
ss which it is feared wi at
with Kiamil Pacha, president of tl a ee
1¢ Council of State; : i
ee 7 ncil of State; and the Min-
ommerce, Cabruli Pacha and Mc
Effendi. He was received by these fi apc nue
se at] ayy :
a a unctionaries at their several
) srtainec ‘e with very ¢
versation, and the customary offerin f sah a Saeed te
ay ‘Ings ee & i
ieee ae cate ih of coffee and chibouque. The
£0, y . ev wv ‘Lager 4
ee : \ ond expressions compliment-
yf ghly appreciative of tl i ;
ie United 5
Ie thought that Turkish politics, so deeply i i tines
Fenn ) ply interwoven with those
} , are probably reserved by the ministers for the
reatment of the great statesman, Ali Pacha
The Divan is a large and spacious European structure, superi
ngees , superior
to any public edifice of the same sort here, or to | :
seen throughout the East, tl int sh anneree
mn g ast, though very inferior to the departm
buildings at Washington. eli
By the courtesy of the Government, the necessary i
free access to the city and all its instit ti ea coe
y and all its institutions and an
1s jusements wer
sent to us this morning. It i ones
g. was amusing to see il
sear uae ( 1e care that was
taken in filling up tl ; its
g up the dates and inserti
serting the names in the
es ae g é In these
ee forms; a banker could hardly practise more care in draw
ing bills a
- _ exchange to guard against perversion or counterfeiting
/ e hd € ¢ hd : :
understand that permits to view the mosques, palaces, and aa
> . . fe) : i
scums here, are usually charged with a fee as a perquisite
re = AD ¢ S .
e nae made several excursions around the city. The survey
rom Thi r pol -*
without, at whatever point, produces the same impressi
that of unmixed admirati i ae
xed ¢ ation. It has been with us a profound stud
to determine what it is tl eu
ferent f iat constitutes the peculiar and surpassing
effect o stanti ;
: onstantinople as a great and magnificent seat of com
mere ir Vatur !
| ent empire. Nature has invested the site with such advan
a i + : Le , . : Cc « e
ges in this respect as no other city enjoys. It is an isthmus, and
a narr v1 wer a
: arrow one at that, with lofty and towering but graccful eleva
\( ic ivi : .
sa which divide two great seas, the Mediterranean and the
duxine, and two gr conti 8 |
7 . : great continents, Europe and Asia. The seas
” Ss o “ ‘g } } . .
p hands between the continents, which smile upon each other
across arr strait of
ys the narrow strait of the fatnomless, blue-rolling Bosporus
i ie |
care
SSEre om hE
CONSTANTINOPLE
od
y
oF
MOSQUE
CONSTANTINOPLE
SOPHIA,
MOSQUE
CONSTANTINOPLE. 691
What would otherwise be a topographical monotony is broken by
the broad, deep, and winding channel of the Golden Horn, which
breaks the European coast into two not unequal parts, with banks
on either side as green and gently sloping as those of the Bospo-
rus. Constantinople, not diminutive nor contracted, covers plain,
valley, and hill, on either shore, as far as the eye can reach, with a
populous, majestic city. You take no notice of the political, mu-
nicipal, or geographical divisions of the city: though the portion
south of the Horn and west of the Bosporus is designated as the
ancient Byzantium, now Stamboul proper; and the portion of the
city north of it and west of the Bosporus as Pera; and the por-
tion which occupies the eastern bank is known as Scutari, the
ancient Chrysopolis—yet Stamboul, Pera, and Scutari, with what-
ever other municipalities or suburbs there may be, are merged
altogether, and make the one, great, noble city of Constantinople.
From whatever new point of view you look at the panorama, you
feel not the distant but the immediate presence of the two oceans
and of the two continents. Boston merely encircles a bay; New
York graces an island between two rivers ; London crowds both level
banks of a tame and turbid river; Paris merely clusters, like Rome,
upon the banks of a narrow, tideless stream; Amsterdam shuts out
the sea by dikes, making for itseif an artificial site; even Venice,
the “Queen of the Adriatic,” takes refuge from it in a shallow,
marshy bay; while Naples is content with occupying an amphithe-
atre, nobly beautiful indeed, but still a circular mountain-shore.
But Constantinople has the deep, great sea flowing, not only near
it but through it. The sea, elsewhere, is a thing of dread—the sea,
at Constantinople, is a highway of commerce, and a pleasure-lake.
Although dividing the city, it is not forced out by wharves, docks,
or piers, on either side. You may pass from the steamship to
your dwelling-place on the greensward of your garden; o- you
may enter your frail ccique and float in safety on the deep waters,
which at the same time are bearing by the most majestic ships that
man can build. So you may, from the same pleasure-poat, land on
either green shore of the Bosporus at the water’s edge, or wind
your way among the fleets riding at anchor in the Golden Horn.
692 EUROPE.
It is this peaceful contact of two continents, with the truce be-
tween an old and a new civilization in the Bosporus, and at the
same time a control of two seas, both relieved of their terrors,
while retaining always their placid beauty, that makes Constanti-
nople the most delightful place in the world. One other element
enters into the picture—the streets of Constantinople are narrow,
rem
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ANCIENT PILLAR AT CONSTANTINOPLE
most of the dwellings and shops are cheap and frail, yet these
blemishes are overlooked in the view of the ever-admired Oriental
3, with the truce be-
osporus, and at the
ed of their terrors,
1at makes Constanti-
One other element
ntinople are narrow,
ete
p and frail, yet these
ever-admired Oriental
FOUNTAIN OF THE SERAGLIO, 693
city, with the gleaming towers, domes, and minarets, of its thou-
sand palaces and mosques, and a gorgeous golden sunlight con-
FOUNTAIN OF THE 8ERAGLIO.
trasting with the sparkling blue sea, the dark cypress-groves of
Scutari, and, in the distance, the bright islands of the Marmora,
and the snowy peak of Olympus. It is the harmony of each part
with the whole which constitutes the nameless beauty of the scene.
It is the presence, not of waters diminutive as rivers, nor of emi-
nences diminutive as hills, but of seas and mountains—not of the
seas and mountains of one country, but of the seas and mountains
of two vast and diverse continents.
July 3d.—The palace of Solyman the Magnificent, seated so
gracetully on the promontory which divides the Golden ILorn from
the Bosporus, was the chief court residence of the Sultan until
seventy or eighty years ago. Now, under the name of the “Old
Seraglio,” this great pile has been converted into a storehouse, in
which are depesited the regalia, ornaments, plate, and objects of
vertu, gatherec. by the crown since the time of the caliphs. The
4b
ly
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IN STANTINO PLE
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SERAGLIO,.
FOURTH OF JULY. 695
collection is curious. There are crowns, thrones, urns, vases, table
furniture and ornaments, plate, clocks, watches, jewelry, and pre-
cious stones, all of costliest material and most elaborate workman-
ship, placed in cases, apparently without arrangement or desig-
nation of date or history—a treasure which Midas might covet,
although it is practically useless. It was only as an act of special
grace that we were admitted to the alcoves which contained the
rich library and manuscripts belonging to the Government. They
are watched with the utmost care, since the Government thinks it
has had reason to believe that some foreign states have tried by
indirect means to abstract some of them.
July 4th.—Although the celebration of our national indepen-
dence has come to be regarded as a commonplace affair at home, it
is an enjoyment which citizens of the United States cannot forego
without reluctance when abroad.
We repaired this morning, in accordance with an invitation, to
Robert College, an American university for the education of Turk-
ish youths, founded by the liberality of Christopher R. Robert, of
New York. Twelve years ago the Turkish Government conceded
the site, which is the most commanding one on the Bosporus.
But Mussulman jealousies caused delay in confirming the conces-
sion. A long and sometimes unpleasant discussion, which occurred
on the subject between the two Governments, was happily brought
to an end during the closing year of Mr. Seward’s official term in
the Department of State.
The firman having been issued, two years sufficed for building
an edifice adequate to the accommodation of one hundred and
fifty students. Dr. Hamlin, who has had sole charge of the enter-
prise, is president, with a faculty of eleven professors, and already
there are one hundred and twenty-five students. The Fourth of
July was chosen by President Hamlin to commemorate the com-
pletion of this important work with due acknowledgments to the
Government of the United States and the Government of Turkey
for their favor and patronage. Mr. Seward’s arrival at this junc-
ture and Blacque Bey’s presence at Constantinople were regarded
696 EUROPE.
as fortunate coincidences of the celebration. After a long drive by
the side of the Bosporus and over its eminences, we espied the
United States flag waving from the college. The president, faculty,
and students, with the United States citizens residing at Constan-
tinople, received Mr. Seward, and, having been severally presented
to him on the veranda, attended him in procession to the recep-
tion-hall. A dinner, provided by the American residents, was
served—the first public entertainment of the kind ever known on
the shores of the Bosporus. And so the ivy-crowned, castellated
towers near by, which, in 1453, forty years before the discovery of
America, poured forth the invading army who subverted Chris-
tianity in the empire and established Moslem despotism in Stam-
boul, now were witnesses of the celebration of an event which is a
sure guarantee of religious as well as political regeneration of so-
ciety thronghout the world.
Dr. Hamlin presided at one of the two tables, which was deco-
rated with the stars and stripes; while Blacque Bey, by the leave
and with the instruction of the Divan, presided at the other under
a canopy formed by the crescent flag of the Turkish Empire. The
guests were Americans, with their families ; Turks, of course, with-
out theirs; and the body of students, among whom were repre-
sentatives from every province in the empire, as well as from Per-
sia, Greece, and the islands of the Levant.
Dr. Hamlin closed a spirited oration with congratulations to
Mr. Seward on his arrival in Constantinople, and thanks for the
interest in the college which he had manifested. Mr. Seward an-
swered in a manner which seemed to awaken deep sensibility
ainong his own countrymen, while the natives of the East listened
with surprise and pleasure to a free exercise of speech for the first
time in their lives.
Rlacque Bey and Mr. Brown followed with speeches which were
pleasing and appropriate in their allusions to Mr. Seward, Robert
College, and the relations between Turkey and the United States.
When the exercises closed, the assemblage attended Mr. Seward
to his carriage, and parted from him with cheers for himself, for
the Union, for the Turkish Empire, and for Robert College.
er
4
Leer
oss
ri
3
rah
ime OS
aw Ad
Sy A an li |
= '
éototote eb oT
Seeez= ot oh eet
=f.
Fe!
berg
re
aé
fter a long drive by
nees, we espied the
e president, faculty,
residing at Constan-
severally presented
ossion to the recep-
ican residents, was
ind ever known on
-crowned, castellated
fore the discovery of
ho subverted Chris-
1 despotism in Stam-
fan event which is a
1 regeneration of so-
bles, which was deco-
ue Bey, by the leave
ed at the other under
urkish Empire. The
Turks, of course, with-
ng whom were repre-
, as well as from Per-
th congratulations to
,and thanks for the
ited. Mr. Seward an-
ken deep sensibility
es of the East listened
of speech for the first
h speeches which were
o Mr. Seward, Robert
ind the United States.
attended Mr. Seward
sheers for himself, for
Robert College.
THE BOSPORUS. O97
~ }; ee a yr
st rd x ne OY the <G Y j l | I ) | : ) | -
1e DOS P i g }
a c ] re 9 u suc 1 i
. 5 35
TURKISH WOMAN IN STREET DRESS.
nevertl e br R
hae aia has the breadth of the East River at New York, and
a de ically wnfi i
st : practically wnfathomable. Its waters, from the Black Sea
0 the Sea of Marmor: | nil
1 of Marmora, have a current averaging two or thr il
oF ie Wea tain , ging or three miles
) vreased at some points to four miles by jutting
yromontori rergi ‘ |
l ‘eile or converging shores. The city and suburbs are
spread ally :
: , y though not equally, over the two lofty and gently-rising
ank i ip-of i )
cs, and a hostile ship-of-war moving through the Golden Horn
¥
€
we
Bi
Ls
rm
te,
gas pecubes w oat =a
weegus pueecte ens BT TES
698 EUROPE.
and the Bosporus could shell and destroy not only every warehouse
on the bank, but every palace, mosque, and villa, in the entire city.
The Government has a high appreciation of the Bosporus as an or-
nament of the capital. It carefully prohibits the use of its shores
for offensive trades, avocations, or manufactories, and they are, con-
sequently, embellished with the finest public institutions, palaces,
and villas. Every man of the wealthier class, besides his winter
dwelling in Stamboul, Pera, or Scutari, has his villa and wherry on
the verdant bank of the Bosporus, and steps from his porch to his
barge, while his garden hangs on the hill-side. All the foreign
ministers and consuls have their villas here, and, in ascending the
Bosporus, we received the salute of many national flags.
In Japan all the women whom the traveller sees, aside from the
music-girls, are repulsive. In China the women seen are painted
and distorted ; in India, woman seems to have no existence at all;
in Egypt and Syria, if she appears in public, she is hideously veiled.
Until lately, it was so in Constantinople. We have met to-day
many groups of Circassian women listlessly reclining in their gayly-
cushioned, canopied caiques, on the Bosporus, as we have met
them before in our walks and drives on shore. They secm greatly
to enjoy this freedom, and are often accompanied by musicians
under the surveillance of the inevitable eunuchs. These women
are richly dressed, in habits of brightly-colored silk which approxi-
mate to the European costume, and their thin white veils, which
cover their faces, leave exposed, with bewitching effect, eyes and
eyebrows, the latter delicately painted. We have passed a thou-
sand harems on our voyage to-day, and if any woman looked upon
us she would only have done so through the close lattice of her
balcony. Verily, the Mohammedan is a “comfortable doctrine”
for the stronger sex. For, while women ure thus carefully secluded,
every piazza and window on either side of the Bosporus is filled
with Turks in groups, in pairs, and single, sitting cross-legged or
lounging on divans, surveying the passers-by through fumes of
chibouque or hookah, and over uncounted glasses of sherbet.
After this excursion we can no longer wonder at the cautious
jealousy with which the Ottoman Porte insists upon holding the
ly every warehouse
, in the entire city.
Bosporus as an or-
ie use of its shores
, and they are, con-
nstitutions, palaces,
besides his winter
villa and wherry on
rom his porch to his
e. All the foreign
1d, in aseending the
onal flags.
- gees, aside from the
en seen are painted
, no existence at all;
1e is hideously veiled.
We have met to-day
lining in their gayly-
s, as we have met
They seem greatly
panied by musicians
chs. These women
d silk which approxi-
in white veils, which
hing effect, eyes and
have passed a thou-
woman looked upon
close lattice of her
bmfortable doctrine”
us carefully secluded,
he Bosporus is filled
tting cross-legged or
y through fumes of
sses of sherbet.
onder at the cautious
ts upon holding the
A TURKISH GIRL. 699
a
Bosp YT 4 9
c d
; “aes ine?
. cating with its termini in the Sea of Marmora and tl
er . ¢ é n 1e
Sea, would open to all nations, rivals or i
, rivals or enemies as well as
TURKISH GIRL IN A HAREM.
The Bosporus, therefore, while it is an ornament, is a constant
peril, and a constraint upon the national independence Nori it
to be enpposed that the Ottoman Government fails to eas ;
that its political and religious institutions, customs, and wit
enoonnter the prejudices of all the Christian nations, and that the
chief security for peace with each lies in the thietadicabla a biti |
of the great states of Europe. ieee
| The banks of the Bosporus are not without the appearance of
military defences, which, however, seem wellnigh worn to pieces
iwi a
r
i
suhi<
rf?
a bteotee HSek aU
|
4
cnomeweg=a FT TP
wow
ah ed
ad & Gaia f
700 EUROPE.
with age. The shores, as you approach the Black Sea, present a
succession of barracks and encampments well filled with soldiers.
The chief protection of the passage consists of a navy of twenty
iron-clad stcamn-frigates, all of which are kept constantly in com-
mission. Besides these the Government has in its employ a very
intelligent American engineer of the late Confederate Army of the
United States, who is providing the harbor at all points with tor-
pedoes. By-the-way, the occasion of our first acquaintance with
this gentleman bas afforded us much amusement. While we were
waiting at the u:vy-yard this morning, for our steamer, and Mr.
Seward was in conversation with the admiral in command, an
officer in Turkish uniform stood near whom we recognized as an
American, despite his fez and laced coat. Approaching, at Mr.
Seward’s request, the officer ¢ d that he was pleased to have an
introduction to him, but had not ventured to pay his respects to
him on account of political associations at home. He remarked
that the last time he had had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Seward
was when he himself was attending the Confederate “ peace com-
missioners,” Hunter, Stephens, and Campbell, in the conference at
Hampton Roads, with President Lincoln and his Secretary of State.
Mr. Seward laughingly said that he inferred, from the captain’s
present employment, that he might have becn engaged in blowing
up the United States commissary storehouse at City Point. The
handsome Southerner owned to the “soft impeachment,” but he
protested that he had nothing to do with the shelling, from “ How-
lett Ilouse Battery,” of the River Queen, which was conveying
Mr. Seward, with Gencral Grant and General Butler, to the signal-
tower and Dutch Gap Canal.
July 5th.—Shpoting almost directly across the Bosporus, we en-
tered a paved court just above the level of the sea, and from it the
majestic gate of another palace. This edifice has just now been
finished, and has not yet been occupied. It is known as the “ New
Palace.” The Turkish architect, educated in Europe, attended us,
and furnished us with photographs of every part of the building.
The style is a successful combination of the Greek with the ara-
ack Sea, present a
filled with soldicrs.
a navy of twenty
constantly in com-
1 its employ a very
,derate Army of the
all points with tor-
fF acquaintance with
nt. While we were
ur steamer, and Mr.
ral in command, an
ve recognized as an
Approaching, at Mr.
; pleased to have an
> pay his respects fo
ome. He remarked
f seeing Mr. Seward
‘federate ‘ peace com-
, in the conference at
his Secretary of State.
d, from thi captain’s
in engaged in blowing
at City Point. The
impeachment,” but he
shelling, from “ How-
which was conveying
1 Butler, to the signal-
3 the Bosporus, we en-
ie sea, and from it thie
ice has just now been
‘s known as the “ New
Europe, attended us,
part of the building.
Greek with the ara-
THE TURKISH CABINET. 701
(
besque archi ,
ie ae es and ornamentation of the Alhambra. W
1ere is even j , i 4 :
Soe ie ae eV ie in Europe a palatial residence so extensive
agnificent. Like the marbl
e court of the i
its “ peacock throne” and roof of silver, thi ae
ee aaeion 2 r, this new palace cannot
ate ap - the visitor with a sense of the despotic authority and
restra i "N
oe He uxury of its possessor. A fine feature of ihe
alace is its im ° i oe
selina mised central, circular audience-chamber, which is
ged that the occupant, looki ; ‘done
sa al ee a pant, ing through corridors at right
o ac er, has an outer prospect on each of the f
ides of th 4 an
vi e palace, and yet the arrangement is such that thes
") ny hd :
ee 8 ee cut off access to any of the chambers, drawing
° $, or y S i
,or ot apartments, nor in the least interfere with tl a
roper use. ci pe
Pre Lg : fter here partaking of a sumptuous breakfast, we
ed our yacht, and returned to the hotel
July 8th.—Mr '
Pas: oon arial d returned to-day the visits of the several
ibers of the cabinet. They seemed t
1d to set a high value on thei
-| i?" ¥ :
ses ere tie torpedo defences, and expressed much desire that Mr
- i ar tonld as them. In their conversation on forcien tanpioe
ee : a France and England as the remotest solute in thely
' a ee and of the United States as being inaccessible
neyond it. The United States t i Saas
¢ o them are simpl
wish to know by what i eh Aina Bee
at process it was that a nation
grown to such a stature Just beginni Fast
OWT , ginning, as they are, to think of
ena railroads, they are amazed when told that the United
ates have already built fifty
y-five thousand miles of railr
oad, ¢
that they add annually five thousand more. sk
Z ih eid found here, as throughout the East, a complete con
ction on the part of the cabinet tl ;
' f 1at, whatever else the Uni
States can do, they are i itera
, they are incapable of practising injusti
meee I practising injustice toward
July 10th.—Soon after we arrived here, Mr. Seward was i
formed that he would be received by the Sultan on ‘ da ‘ is
appointed, and that on another day he would be hones a by
Kiamil Pacha, president of the Council of State. On anor
9
unt
swe ied
t
t
fa =
ae
ra
ae
om oeeae nee ETA
stetatane ww SeE et
i Ss
| A eke
~
702 EUROPE.
the 8th, came the invitation to breakfast with Kiamil Pacha at
eleven o’clock to-day at his palace high up the Bosporus. It was
announced that Mr. Seward, with a party of gentlemen, would be
entertained by Kiamil Pacha, and that the ladies would be similarly
entertained in the harem. The invitation was, of course, accepted.
On Sunday, at noon, came Mr. Brown, our chargé d’ affaires, bearing
a communication from the Sultan, inviting Mr. Seward to an au-
dience at his palace, down the Bosporus, at two o’clock to-day. It
was seen at once that the two appointments might conflict, but it is
the usage of courts that a sovereign’s request is imperative ; and so
the Sultan’s invitation was also accepted, but under the expectation
that Kiamil Pacha’s would be withdrawn. This, however, did not
happcn ; so there seemed nothing left for us to-day but to endeavor
to fulfil both engagements. The ladies, having learned at Cairo
the customs of the harem, had prepared toilets which they hoped
would make them presentable at the breakfast, Kiamil Pacha being
one of the wealthiest men of the empire, and now, during the re-
tirement of Ali Pacha, prime-minister, and his wife being the sister
of the Khédive of Egypt. Taking the well-manned, graceful
edique of the United States legation, accompanied by Blacque Bey
with Mr. and Mrs. Brown, at ten o’clock, and rowing hard against
the current, we arrived at the grand staircase of the villa of Kiamil
Pacha at eleven o’clock. On entering the grand salon, it was a sur-
prise that neither Kiamil Pacha, nor any other pacha, nor effendi,
nor any other person, appeared to reccive us. Blacque Bey went
to explore, and returned, telling us that Kiamil Pacha was wait-
ing in an adjoining apartment to conduct the ladies to the harem.
They “ollowed Blacque Bey through a large antechamber, and then
through a long corridor, at the foot of which he presented them to
Kiamil Pacha, a man about sixty, of commanding presence, with
piercing black eyes, white hair, and long, pointed beard and mus-
tache. IIe was dressed in a flowing dressing-gown of rich white
silk, and yellow Turkish slippers. He apologized for being en dés-
habille, which, indeed, seemed to us rather extraordinary. Ie now
called a deformed Nubian, and, after some explanations in Turkish,
unintelligible to us, this black custodian hobbled away, and re-
Kiamil Pacha at
Bosporus. It was
itlemen, would be
would be similarly
of course, accepted.
t @ affaires, bearing
Seward to an au-
‘o'clock to-day. It
hit conflict, but it is
imperative ; and s0
der the expectation
is, however, did not
day but to endeavor
ig learned at Cairo
ts which they hoped
Kiamil Pacha being
now, during the re-
wife being the sister
M-manned, graceful
ried by Blacque Bey
rowing hard against
bf the villa of Kiamil
1d salon, it was a sur-
pacha, nor effendi,
Blacque Bey went
mil Pacha was wait-
ladies to the harem.
techamber, and then
1c presented them to
ding presence, with
ted beard and mus-
-gown of rich white
zed for being en des-
‘aordinary. Ie now
lanations in Turkish,
bled away, and re-
A COOL RECEPTION, 708
(
given to the slaves th y j i G d
9 ey in their turn lisay eare or a i e, a
isapp IT fe € tim 9¢ nd
V . e
Ny 7
Nubian led the way, and the ladie
eagle MT WRN ta adies, attended by the four slave-
ae o a large, pleasant room, furnished in the
al manner—that is, with luxurious divans along its si
low, downy cushions of yellow damasl eae
nask; bri i
fa aie eatin? : ask; bright Persian rugs on
; curtains at the windows, and a table i t
the room, covered with porcelain all l Chas as
ain and glass va: ,
ments, but no books, music, pictures saint anetasaNei
5 9, (@) D be ta 77 °
aE , or statuary, were to be seen.
1ad elapsed when a lady entered apani
six slave-girls, She was quite petit or] Nee aa
ete, perhaps forty-five y
ser ° 1 y-five years old
dressed in a simple white-muslin gown, with a single t
of blue tulle on her head, fastened with an she Ns
cnormous sapphir
setae sapphire, the
y ornament she wore. Acknowledging the pres
pea Oe ae ging presence of her
guests only by a distant inclination of the head, she seated 1 If
ae tna ae dae ? ad, ated hersel
ut , drawing her slippered fect under her, and embracing
ier - a
white poodle-dog. She spoke not, and seemed : ‘i
scanning, with no ha c i cen teeS
ing, wi appy expression, the elaborate toilets of her
morning visitors 7, of i
ee They, of course, said nothing, for the lady
rin ; ati
p ee _ not condescended to announce herself, or to be an
nounced by ct § |
a : eunuch oF slave. Mrs. Brown speaks Turkish fluently
r attempts to win the hostess into conversation were fruitles
and there was “silence” i Anan
et ec” in the harem for half the time that St
yh : i
ohn at Patmos marked the period of “ silence in heaven.” But it
was an omi ilenc i i
: es silence. The princess then proceeded to interro
on i ‘ visi :
ct ier Occidental visitors after the fashion of the Orient: “ How
old are you?” “Have y 2
3 pe Have you any brothers or sisters?” ‘“ How
many ¢ How old are they?” “ Where do y a
Then, with great faqs Pb atone
, ’ great surprise: “ Why do you come so far from home ;
1ow can y i y
ow can you fatigue yourselves so much?” “ Why do you sh
stop and rest?” if givi
p and rest?” And, finally, as if giving utterance to the dis-
pleasure too long suppressed: “ Why di
act g ppressed : “ Why did you come here in such a
y this morning, and give us no time to dress ?”
This conversation was only interrupted by puffs of smoke from
cigarettes, which were successively serv-d to her from a jewelled
SAUNN
r
Dated ee Sat
s
aS
a>
ee
Siar hte. de wi ood
eeer=s cm Rew Pe |e
Advaa
704 EUROPE.
ease by a Circassian slave-girl. Encouraged by her freedum, the
visitors essayed specch in their turn. They said, ‘“ We understood
that we had the honor of being expected here this morning;” to
which the princess replied, “I know nothing about it.” The
ladies expressed their regret, but said the gentlemen must have
made some mistake. She again replied, “I know nothing about
it.” Turning this extraordinary conversation, the visitors asked :
‘“¢ How do you amuse yourself?”
“T look at the Bosporus, and smoke.”
“What is the name of your pretty dog?”
“ TIc has no name.”
“¢ How do you call him ?”
“T say, ‘Dog.’”
Chibouques, coffee, and sweetmcats, being now served, conver-
sation ended, and the ladies were invited to examine the furniture
and ornaments around them. During this time two other Turkish
ladies entered and joined the princess on the divan, while the
number of slave-girls increased to fifty—many of them very pretty
and interesting, by their gentle ways. The princess commanded
one of the girls to sing. She seated herself on the floor and exe-
cuted a plaintive recitative, accompanying herself with a lute, the
strings of which she struck with a tortoise-shell wand. It was
whispered to the visitors that the two Turkish ladies were guests
of the Princess Kiamil; and when, after what seemed an hour,
Kiamil Pacha was heard approaching the apartment, they hid
themselves behind the curtains with some confusion and precipi-
tation. The princess now rose and extended her beautiful little
hands to her guests, to be kissed, and the forcign ladies took their
leave, and, joining Kiamil Pacha, now completely arrayed in his
official dress, returned with him to the salon, where they found Mr.
Seward and the other gent!emen awaiting then.
During the absence of the ladies, Kiamil Pacha had explaincd
to Mr. Seward the contre-temps which had oceurred. Server Pa-
cha, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, on receiving the Saltan’s
command that Mr. Seward should be presented to-day, had as-
sumed that that gentleman would be unable to keep his engage-
her freedum, the
,* We understood
his morning ;” to
about it’? The
tlemen must have
now nothing about
he visitors asked :
now served, conver-
amine the furniture
xe two other Turkish
he divan, while the
of them very pretty
princess commanded
on the floor and exe-
rself with a lute, the
shell wand. It was
‘ch ladies were guests
iat seemed an hour,
apartment, they hid
snfusion and precip
d her beautiful little
cign ladies took their
letely arrayed in his
here they found Mr.
mn.
Pacha had explained
‘ecurred. Server Pa-
oceiving the Saltan’s
bnted to-day, had as
to keep his engage
A TURKISH BREAKFAST.
land ~
105
ment for the morni ey ares
‘Giayitl Pacliat ares with Kiamil Pacha, and had given notic
¢ t 1 y : Cc
ae acha to that effect, but had omitted to inform Mr.S :
o it turned out that while, with sl , orm Mr. Seward.
, ) sharpene .
for time, we were wondering why ¥ ; - appetites and pressed
° y Ve ra mak ‘Na 8 .
cha and his wife were equally a 1 ae? breakfast, Kiamil Pa-
' € rovdering that w
for one. At : ; g that we had come
; preakfast did co ] ome there
NES me, however In .
° e ° I V0 n °
palace, Asiatie forms and customs are P se acting-premier’s
ie are confined to the har
vigorously ex , ie harem. f
§ y extemporized a party, consisting of three Laine
a
n
an V l Cl t l Ss A was oYV ed
in @ spacious roor ‘ ies pica s
sen : eg a gorgeously furnished, the windows of whicl
arently illimi hic
oe pp rently illimitable gardens, fountains, and grottc
conversation was free and spirited, and w € EhOUEs
pean public questions, always with ki ) was chiefly on Euro-
fie Uniclieen. Ol! with kind and appreciative allusi
> United States. at ative allusions
ane tee es. Once it took the turn of converti .
and Spanish proverbs into Oriental for pi ak cia
‘ rms aid idioms A: :
gerate compliments, with a deci s aid idioms, which exag:
Kiamil: P , with a decided loss of tersencss of expressi
aml ac ¢ maaee } ‘ ‘eSSl >
ae acha was vivacious and courteous. Ile : d af
vard Whe . * ase
aaa iat salary he received as Secretary of State M S :
ar ving e c A Yr. e fs
g answered cight thousand dollars, in coin or Ww
as ° 9 * ’ * 2
s the case might be, the annour eee
Seay ait Taual icement of a sum so small was r
‘ € g Ne
vail Pael aughter and surprise. He then ventured to asl Kia
acha, n , ° ask I\la-
ee: ot what his salary as head of the ministry is ees
are his official expenses. The ministe stry is, but what
: ; : r answer ft ;
piasters which exceeds our power of aritl ered, giving a sum in
ee arithmetical ex :
which i Poi ; expression
: : the equivalent of thirty thousand dollars per 4 a
eward rejoine Nar : nth. Mr.
ejoined that old countries are the ones for mini
state, bishops, and muttis. ministers of
The breakf
ast Ww ;
erase was served @ la fourchette, and consis
eral delicious courses of F pig consisted of sev-
off in the midst b rench and native dishes, which were cut
1qas { abr ;
pnt °y im abrupt call for the peau, the Turkish nati
sh which invariably crowns and ends a feast aye
At half-pa j ;
ko past one, Mr. Seward, attended by Biacque Bey and
. rown, landed at the wharf of the Imperial Palace oe
waiting in th ; € ald Ps er
ee oe e oe a secretary, until the appointed hour, they
, through the garden in fr acted
g n front of the palace, t
entrance. Her palace, to the grand
ere Blacque Bey turned away, and the secretary con
AND
r
»
¥
f
ee
we:
L a
PIR
teas! tes? bbbodet w Sark iis
Pa grees st TTT
hg “pbb ies
AGG &
706 EUROPE.
ducted Mr. Seward and Mr. Brown through a long series of ante-
chambers until they reached a small apartment plainly furnished.
The Sultan was seen standing near the centre of it. The secretary
obsequiously kneeled, and remained in that position, Mr. Seward
and Mr. Brown standing. Without making or waiting for a salu-
tation, the Sultan pointed to chairs and invited the guests to sit ;
tnen, drawing another chair, he sat down at Mr. Seward’s side.
The secretary now rose to assume the office of interpreter. is
Majesty made the usual inquiries concerning Mr. Seward’s health,
the time he had been abroad, and the countries in which he had
travelled. He made no allusion to India or Egypt, but asked many
curious questions concerning Japan and China—their condition,
political state, and prospects. Then he expressed much gratifica-
tion with Mr. Seward’s visit to Turkey, and a hope that his stay in
Constantinople had been made comfortable and agreeable to him.
Mr. Seward thanked him for the marks of consideration with which
he had been honored from the time of his arrival in the Turkish
dominions, and for the hospitality and courtesy of which he had
been the recipient at the capital.
The Sultan replied that these attentions were justly due to him,
as an eminent man of a great nation.
Mr. Seward said that “the late civil and severe war in the Uni-
ted States had tried the forbearance and fidelity of foreign friends
and allies; that Turkey had been first and foremost of all in that
great trial, and that her faithful friendship was appreciated by his
Government and countrymen.”
The Sultan said: “ It is the desire of Turkey to be at peace with
all the Western nations, and she takes pleasure in acknowledging
the prosperity, greatness, and increasing influence of the United
States, which has always been a just nation.” The Sultan con-
tinued these remarks, saying that Turkey is behind Western na-
tions in social progress, but that he hoped Mr. Seward had discov-
ered, since coming here, that he (the Sultan) is making decisive
efforts to advance the country in that direction.
Mr. Seward said: “I need not have come here to see this, but
I am grateful, since I have come, to find my previous information
ig series of ante-
plainly furnished.
t. The secretary
‘tion, Mr. Seward
waiting for a salu-
the guests to sit 5
Ir. Seward’s side.
interpreter. Hlis
r. Seward’s health,
; in which he had
pt, but asked many
y—their condition,
sed much gratifica-
ope that his stay in
d agreeable to him.
‘deration with which
4val in the Turkish
sy of which he had
re justly due to him,
Lvere war in the Uni-
ity of foreign friends
remost of all in that
8 appreciated by his
by to be at peace with
ye in acknowledging
rence of the United
» The Sultan con-
| behind Western na-
Seward had discov-
) is making decisive
Ws
» here to sec this, but
previous information
A SEA-SICK SULTAN. 707
confirmed. You have established law and order, with entire lib-
erty of conscience, throughout the empire,
I have seen two rail-
roads, and travelled on them. I sce new roads and improvements
going on everywhere in Constantinople.”
Mr. Seward’s assurances of Blacque Bey’s success in conducting
very difficult and delicate affairs at Washington evidently gave
the Sultan much satisfaction.
His Majesty spoke with so much interest concerning our coun-
try, that Mr. Seward asked whether, in case he should again go to
the West, he would not think it worth his while to extend his jour-
ney to the United States.
The Sultan, shaking his head, answered with a smile, that the
German Occan made him so sick, that he determined never to go
to sea again.
Mr. Seward replied, “The Atlantic is certainly not so gentle as
some of the seas, but the German Ocean is the worst of them all.”
The Sultan showed an accurate knowledge of Mr. Seward’s
occupations in the capital from the moment of his arrival, and drew
from him, by polite interrogatories, the impressions he had received
concerning the iron-clads, arsenals, navy-yards, barracks, hospitals,
and especially the new palace, which we visited yesterday. At
times, when a pause occurred, the Sultan, turning his eyes toward
the Bosporus, would call up some new topic, and so the audience
was protracted for an hour.
It closed with expressions of good
wishes for Mr. Seward’s health, and the safe and happy prosecution
of his voyage, which is to be resumed to-morrow.
Black Sea, July \Ath—William J. McAlpine, a distinguished
American engincer, and an old friend, with his family, met us at
Constantinople, and is accompanying us on our voyage as far as
Orsova, on the Danube. Our last view of Constantinople was from
the deck of an Australian Lloyd’s steamer on the Bosporus.
We might count the number of flags which waved us farewell
from the balconies of Robert College, but not the number of boyish
voices which greeted us with parting cheers.
AINN
4
r
e
jag
*
FIa
aut %
FORTS epee terns FEY
ase & tata of SE
=
ADO Gt aia
CHAPTER II.
HUNGARY AND AUSTRIA,
the Danube,—Varna.—Rustchuk.—Wallachia.—German Travellers.—What shall
we say of Turkey ?—Reflections on the Future of the Turks.—Orsova.—The Iron
Gate.—Hungarian Loyalty.—Buda-Pesth.—Coutrast of European and Asiatic Civil-
ization.—The People of Pesth.—The Bridge of Buda.—The Buildings of Buda.—-
The History of Hungary.—Tie Danube.—Vienna.—Jobn Jay.—Count Von Beust.--
Politics of Austria.
On the Danube, July 12th—We awoke this morning in the
harbor of Varna, one of the seaports of Turkey in Europe, and the
capital of Roumelia. The town acquired great importance from
being the principal scene of Omar Pacha’s military and naval
operations in the Crimean War. It has since that time, however,
acquired greater importance of another kind. The Danube, ap-
proaching the Black Sea, takes a northeasterly direction, dividing its
flood into three channels. The mouths of these channels are much
obstructed, while their navigation is long and tortuous. British
capitalists have supplied the means with which a railroad has been
constructed from Varna, one hundred and fifty miles long, which
intercepts the Danube at Rustchuk. This railroad, reducing the
journey from Vienna to Constantinople four hundred miles, aiready
divides the freight traffic with the circuitous Danubian route, while
it takes the entire passenger-trade.
The United States consul, the British consul, and several Euro-
pean and American missionaries, were gathered at the wharf at
Rustchuk to welcome Mr. Seward.
The Danube, now carrying a high flood, spreads here over a
n Travellers. —What shall
Turks,—Orsova.—The Iron
Suropean and Asiatic Civil-
—The Buildings of Buda.--
n Jay.—Count Von Beust.-—
this morning in the
ey in Europe, and the
reat importance from
s military and naval
o that time, however,
The Danube, ap-
y direction, dividing its
ese channels are much
nd tortuous. British
ch a railroad has been
ifty miles long, which
railroad, reducing the
hundred miles, already
Danubian route, while
msul, and several Euro-
hered at the wharf at
d, spreads here over &
PROSPECTS OF TURKEY
709
mile in width j i
5 with high but not mountainou 1 ks
é 8 DANKS.
contains ¢ ati ,
Ba population of twenty-five thous The town
ance of much activity : musand, and has the appear-
It prese
, es , 7 sea e
Cast-haites ] sonts less an Oriental than a Eu
: f : SC ’, bier-haiiser n ot “ule
manu actories, and shops ° 7 5] O to speak of sli Ss
1 ; ‘ J By indicate a large ] ’ ‘ . I Py
e ement. Minarets eh fas fre ais ( ominating German
sae ; ss frequent, : =~ s .
churches take their place. quent, and spires of Christian
rop AN aspect.
On the i
opposite bank lie ‘
te entnaet I ank lies the principality of Wallachi
garia, practically inde ’ allachia, now
capital, Buel y independent of the Turkish Empi
apital, Bucharest, forty-f ‘ish Empire. It
-four miles dis ees
reached by railroad. istant from the Danube, is
Tow diff i
ifferent is the voy
periences ! saa voyage on the Danube from our lat
s! Pe rs * ate ex-
erally with Bhnncan pascal and crew, are all Europeans, gen
rae: ‘ atures and ¢ ; ans, Scn-
French a : ind complexions, |
and Itali: . sy but all speaki
ae Italian as well as their vernacular. B pene
omy of the boat is purely German. TI acular, But the econ-
rooms. We have ue 1ere are only tw
¢ : 0 state-
aan 6 taken these at ten dollars each per d ik
s other vs * : or day, extra 3
ites nd ol passengers, whether first or second cl: Pe
as the laces of; aii Ba
places, on the sofas and tables of the forward 1 eep
‘Ward scloon
Thursday, July 13th.—Still the Wallachian ban!
yu , allachian bank
t on the south, Servia. So at k nk on the north
Tl So at last we have left the Turkish E
Lhe only i ’ : <1Si1 Jum-
Chee ane ily monuments which the Waywode of §
3 Ss ¢ 1e now tenantless a d ser-
barracks, i : antless fortifications, cas
arracks, in whicl Je3 ‘ s, castles
’ C aba W Z .
the severar ‘ Turkish garrisons were maintained, | soa
8 ran "Sarvis ‘ . tay
i ce of Servia, for the security of the empi ae
hat shall we say of Turkey 4 i ee
pire behind us.
; Let us say
. ° ‘ St ¢ ¢ ~ .
we find it a greater puzzle than bef ay that, having scen it,
: ore—meore ¢ , :
than any other state that ee eeeeniaa 16re completely hybrid
- : ar . X1S ec er, . ° i
antagonistic and irreconcilable for 7 a combination of two
_ half ; ‘ ‘ces—half Asiatic. half E
hod SavivGonta; inl? Cvnanden=chalf Chit Asiatic, half European
1¢ Aged nx ——[}¢ 1YIS if alf ;
half civilized, half uncivilized—half rites i rabeianae ae
pacific and enervated. Tl pin hostile and belligerent, half
Hee ated. wus it has a more difficult political posi
y any empire has had, to maintain; se ae
position, the worst that could be i di dpa tetat
5 coneelved, for maintatni
; maintaining. Its
obs od
a sec y | aoc
ANN
r
Mee
¢°
oo
T?
=a ie
ewe ee ert
3 @eac=ee ae2é
6 ce oo w
al
PE Fe eee
B Gt ata 5
aa
710 EUROPE.
tween two seas, but also, dominate on the shores of two continents.
Turkey is thus in everybody’s way. The Itussians, covering the
entire northern part of Europe, and bordering on the Black Sea
and the Caspian, want free access to the Mediterranean and the
Persian Gulf. The English, French, and Germans, want free ac-
cess to the wheat-fields of the Danube; the Italians have a prescrip-
tive right to the Archipelago. All the countries of Continental
Europe, like the United States, are becoming manufacturing coun-
trics. They need open roads and free markets on the borders of
the Black Sea, and throughout the entire Asiatic Continent.
Steadily, perseveringly, they go on, opening the roads to such mar-
kets. Great Britain and France have already effected railroad and
canal communication through Egypt to the Red Sea. British cor-
porations have achieved two or three railways in Turkey. A direct
and continuous railway communication, across Western Asia to
India, looms up already in the near future, while the traditional
policy of Russia demands not only free passage through the Dos-
porus by sea, but will soon exact a passage through Persia, and
the Turkish dominions, from the Black Sea to the Indian Ocean,
Even the United States, although they but seldom float a ship in
the Levant, and only occasionally display their flag there, yet, con-
scious of a maritime destiny, chafe, like the European states, against
the Turkish restraints on navigation. Thus Turkey is in every-
body’s way. The empire must maintain the Mohammedan reli-
gion, or fall a victim to its fanaticism. That religion, incapable of
reconciling itself to Christian codes of laws, manners, customs, and
sympathies, naturally provokes and stimulates the hatred of the
Western nations.
At the same time, the Turks, while they have not lost their
national pride and valor, have become comparatively too feeble in
numbers, and too poor in wealth, to maintain an equal controversy
with any of the formidable Western states. The Christian part of
the population in the empire and its outposts are continually giving
signs of disloyalty to the Porte, and seeking protection and alliance
with Russia, Great Britain, France, the United States, and every
other foreign power. Meanwhile the distant Mohammedan depend:
; of two continents.
ssians, covering the
- on the Black Sea
{jiterranean and the
mans, want free ac-
‘ans have @ prescrip-
tries of Continental
manufacturing coun-
ots on the borders of
» Asiatic Continent.
he roads to such mar-
- effected railroad and
Red Sea. British cor-
in Turkey. A direct
ross Western Asia to
, while the traditional
sage through the Bos-
e ‘through Persia, and
to the Indian Ocean.
seldom float a ship in
eir flag there, yet, con-
European s states, against
us Turkey is in every-
the Mohammedan reli-
it religion, incay” able ot
) manners, customs, and
ates the hatred of the
rey have not lost. their
iparative rely too feeble in
in an equal controversy
The Christian part 0!
3 are continually giving
protection and alliance
nited States, and every
t Mohammedan depe nd:
TURKISH POLICY. 711
encies in Africa, Arabia, and on the shores of the Persian Gulf, are
factious, and in any emergency are more likely to assert their own
independence than to yield support to the empire against an enemy.
Under these circumstances, Turkey continues to live only by prac-
tising conciliation and making concessions; and these concessions
are measured, not by her own ability to grant, but by the magnanim-
ity which extorts. Never without a patron, she seeks the strong:
est, but, like all dependent powers, she must be content with such
as she can secure. The Turkish Government in Europe has been
prolonged, chiefly by means of her European allies, a hundred years.
While improving in administration, laws, and manners, the empire
is manifestly less formidable to-day than ever before. Tow much
longer it shall survive depends altogether on the mutations of that
most intricate of all combinations, the balance of power in Europe.
Just now, however, it has a new ground of hope for longer im-
munity in the misfortunes which have lately come to the French,
Spanish, and Austrian states, and the fall of the temporal suprem-
acy of the Pope, coincidences which seem to render an aggressive
combination of Catholic Europe against Mohammedan Turkey im-
possible, On the whole, our conclusions must be that the Turkish
Empire will ultimately disappear from Europe, but when, or how,
cannot be determined, while no such uncertainty hangs over the
political institutions of Western Europe.
This conclusion seems a hard one to a generous mind that wit-
nesses not only the sincere attempt on the part of the Sultan and
the ministry to modify the laws and customs of the
sees also so many pleasing evidences of active
progress,
Empire, but
improvement and
It is, however, only too palpable that the closer the approach
which the Turkish Empire may make toward the ideas and prin-
ciples of the West, the more its European provinces will be em-
boldened to shake off its sway altogether ; while, on the other hand,
the concessions made in effecting that approach tend immeasurably
to disgust and demoralize Mohammedans in Asia and Africa, and
so weaken the cohesion between the Government and its languish-
ing or dead Oriental provinces and dependencies.
SAINN
FEewt eS
“
Pie a eT S|
Fg?
oi ee
.
ia? ee bbbaitate et sei
+
Peer swore rT rts
fbGé & et aia 5
712 EUROPE.
Orsova, July 14th.—We passed the “Tron Gate” safely this
morning, notwithstanding our itinerary instructions had prepared
us for the passage by the following sensational description: “We
now approach the ‘Iron Gate.’ At this name we are scized with a
fecling of terror, but the captain and crew assure us there is no dan-
ger, for the pilot understands the navigation.”
The Hungarians claim that the Iron Gate surpasses the most
picturesque scenery on the Rhine, in point of granduer. We are
obliged to confess that it is not inferior in effect to that of the High-
lands of the Hudson, which in mountain scenery it resembles. At
the Iron Gate we enter a defile, a mile and a quarter long, in which
the river, reduced to the width of six hundred fect, has a fall of
sixteen feet—above this is a succession of smaller rapids and whirl-
pools. From time immemorial, the improvement of the Iron Gate
has been an anxious study of. the nations which control the Dan-
ube. While we were examining the ruins of an old canal around
it, our friends, the American engineers McAlpine and Powell, em-
ployed by the Danubian Steam Navigation Company, were exhibit-
ing to us their plans for substituting some other improvement.
What has surprised us thus far in Hungary is, to find that,
while the Hungarian mind cherishes a sentiment of state pride
hardly less strong than that which urged the people of Virginia
into the rebellion, yet this sentiment seems everywhere completely
subordinated to the sentiment of loyalty to the Emperor of Aus-
tria, as the King of Hungary.
Buda-Pesth, July 17th.—How striking is the contrast of Euro-
pean and Asiatic civilization! Though Buda-Pesth is an inland
provincial town, with a population of two hundred and fifty thou-
sand, the tonnage in its port, altogether of stcam, is greater than
that of Cairo, Alexandria, or Constantinople. We were not pre-
pared for a scene of such activity.
The river divides the port into two parts. On the southern
bank is the royal palace, and a long line of fortifications crowns
the hills, while the shore see. 8 to contain the dwellings of officers
and others in the service of the Government. This is Buda, On
ite”? safely this
's had prepared
scription : “We
ire seized with a
; there is no dan-
rpasses the most
anduer. We are
that of the High-
t resembles. At
ter long, in which
fect, has a fall of
yapids and whirl-
t of the Iron Gate
control the Dan-
. old canal around
eand Powell, em-
any, were exhibit-
improvement.
ry is, to find that,
ent of state pride
people of Virginia
y where completely
Emperor of Aus-
e contrast of Euro-
Pesth is an inland
ired and fifty thou-
am, is greater than
We were not pre-
On the southern
rtifications crowns
lwellings of officers
This is Buda, On
BUDA-PESTH.
in
ro
ri
pe
t)
=
ae]
me
rout
wer=s Fert
i te Atte Se
F 4
0
‘tf
be
714 EUROPE.
the opposite side is a plain covered with a large metropolis. This
is Pesth.
We had determined to remain here one day, although we had
neither acquaintances nor references at Pesth. While we were
wondering what we should do, and where we should go, we saw
the United States flag waving from the roofs of two lofty buildings
on the terrace which overlooks the river. We rounded and deliv-
ered passengers on the quay at Buda, then swept across and fast-
ened to the wharf at Pesth, where we were met by the United
States vice-consul, and conducted to apartments which, in anticipa-
tion of our coming, he had secured in the Grand Hotel, now newly
opened by a proprietor especially desirous of securing the favor of
American travellers. Here we feel, for the first time, that we have
left the East behind, and have only Western civilization around
and before us. It seems strange that in the same conjuncture are
met, for the first time, American interest and influence. An Hun-
garian surgeon, exiled with Kossuth, went in the early emigration
to California, where he acquired an independence. Afterward he
was appointed United States consul at Bucharest, were he has
resided for several years. He has made his permanent home at
Pesth, and takes great pride in his native city. But what is more
remarkable is, that to-morrow Pesth gives a trial tu two resping-
machines, which are sent out here by the manufacturers, neighbors
of ours in Auburn.
We have passed a pleasant hour in looking down from our bal-
cony upon the people of Pesth, who are enjoying the fashionable
promenade of this street. There is nothing in thei: appearance or
ways to distinguish them from similar groups on Fifth Avenue.
Pesth, July ith, Evening—We made a tour this morning
among the public institutions and monuments. We admired, as it
deserved, the noble suspension-bridge which, crossing the Danube,
connects the two cities of Buda and Pesth, although structures of
that sort have ceased to be a wonder for us since we have crossed
so often the suspension-bridges of the Niagara and the Ohio. This
one is twelve hundred feet long, and twenty-two fect wide, swings
stropolis. This
Ithough we had
While we were
uld go, we saw
o lofty buildings
anded and deliv-
across and fast-
t by the United
hich, in anticipa-
Totel, now newly
ring the favor of
me, that we have
vilization around
, conjuncture are
uence. An Hun-
early emigration
re. Afterward he
st, were he has
rmanent home at
3ut what is more
al ty two reaping:
cturers, neighbors
own from our bal-
g the fashionable
reli appearance or
Fifth Avenue.
our this morning
Ve admired, as it
ssing the Danube,
pugh structures of
we have crossed
dthe Ohio. This
) fect wide, swings
BUDA-PESTH.
715
sixty feet above the water, and was built by an English engineer
(Clark) at a cost of seven million dollars. This bridge has an
historical interest. The citizens of Pesth rose in defence of their
national independence in 1848, and met and massacred Count
Lamberg, an imperial messenger from Vienna, who was crossing
the river to disperse the Hungarian Diet by force. It may be
deemed an evidence of the advance of civilization that, in the
dreadful civil strife, although the contending armies by turns se-
cured the beautiful structure, neither party laid violent hands on it.
On one occasion the Hungarian army, routed and defeated, was pur-
sued across it by the Austrian army, sixty thousand strong. Three
months later, the Austrians, retreating in their turn, were pursued
across ‘| by the now victorious Hungarians. Notwithstanding all
this, the bridge remained unimpaired at the close of the struggle.
Buda was the ancient capital of Hungary, while Pesth, on the
opposite side, long remained an important town. At Buda we
visited the palace of the kings of Hungary, with the citadel and
extensive barracks, claimed to be the largest in the world. These
structures, built on a lofty eminence which overlocks Pesth, have
a commanding view of the Danube and of the greet Hungarian
plain on either side of the majestic river. When the union of the
crowns of Hungary and Austria took place, it was distinctly stipu-
lated that the Emperor of Austria should be crowned in Hungary ;
that Hungary should preserve its constitutional powers ; and that,
as king, the emperor should alternately reside in Ilungary and in
Austria. The palace of the ancient Hungarian line had been de-
stroyed in the Turkish wars, and the building of the present one
was begun in the reign of Charles VI., and finished by Maria
Theresa, his daughter. This palace, however it may compare with
the Schénbrunn, is not unworthy to be the imperial residence. But
Hungary being more progressive than Austria, her claims of an-
cient rights and privileges became annoying to the imperial throne,
and, in the reactionary administration of Metternich, every effort
was made to extinguish the Hungarian constitution, and to destroy
Hungarian independence. Joseph II. refused to be crowned in
Hungary, and the palace in which his mother Maria Theresa had
ac ALISUSAINN
es esa eeeTn rs eT
ees bteatad wi Sok
"16 EUROPE.
found a safe refuge against the pursuit of Frederick the Great be-
came from that time untenanted. It is now honored by an occa-
sional sojourn of the present emperor and the court. The orna-
ments, decorations, and furniture, of the palace are rich, tasteful,
and in harmony with the customs and manners of European so-
ciety. There are statues, paintings, books, and music, not to speak
of cosey salons and boudoirs, nurseries, school-rooms, and chambers,
impressing us with their cheerful contrast to the empty, monotonous
grandeur of Oriental imperial harems. Besides portraits ofthe
present imperial family, there are two of great historic interest.
One represents a battle-scene, with Prince Eugéne as its prominent
figure ; the other depicts the heroic Maria Theresa appealing to the
loyalty of the nation.
The hills around Buda are chiefly occupied by pleasant country-
seats. The city of Pesth is nine miles in circumference. Three
hundred streets divide it into nearly regular squares. It is the
Hungarian centre of science, literature, and art, as well as com-
merce. It has theatres, colleges, parks, gardens, and every thing
which becomes such a city. Among all these objec‘s of interest,
we paused to look only at two. One was the stone stage on which
the kings of Hungary were crowned, and the other the celebrated
Esterhazy gallery of paintings, which is especially rich in the works
of Claude Lorraine and of the great Spanish masters. Having
been bought by a spirited and patriotic association, it has become
the chief pride of the city.
We have had no desire on this journey so intense as to see
Hungary. When the Hungarian people rose to assert its indepen-
dence in 1847, it seemed an unknown country to us. Its three
centuries of strife, trial, and achievement, while the forces of Chris-
tianity and Islamism were contending for a boundary on its plains,
had been forgotten. The whole world were taken by surprise
when they saw in the circumstances of the revolution, not only
just cause, but virtue as great, intelligence as commanding, with
energy and valor as marked, as those which won for our own revo-
lution the respect and good wishes of nations. At first the sym-
pathies of nearly the whole American people were earnestly with
rick the Great be-
ynored by an occa-
, court. The orna-
» are rich, tasteful,
rs of European s0-
music, not to speak
yoms, and chambers,
empty, monotonous
des portraits of the
sat historic interest.
‘one as its prominent
yesa appealing to the
by pleasant country-
‘rcumterence. Three
y squares. It is the
art, as well as com-
ens, and every thing
se objec's of interest,
stone stage on which
e other the celebrated
tally rich in the works
ish masters. Having
jation, it has become
so intense as to see
to assert its indepen-
try to us. Its three
lo the forces of Chris-
Soundary on its plains,
re taken by surprise
revolution, not only
as commanding, with
von for our own revo-
s, At first the sym-
e were earnestly with
NUNGARIAN PEOPLE. T17
them. When, however, the revolution subsided, and its patriot
leaders were decimated or sent into exile, and Hungary fell more
completely than before under the heels of despotism, a few of her
earliest and most constant friends found that they stood almost
alone, at home and abroad, in their respect and pity for the unfor-
tunate nation. Memory brings up once more the scene of Kos-
suth’s sad pilgrimage to Mount Vernon, and of his standing in
silent contemplation before the tomb of Washington, the only man
who had secured the reverence of all mankind by his successful de-
votion to his country and liberty. His friends left him alone with
his thoughts, and, on returning, found him suffused with tears.
“Washington,” said he, “ succeeded; I have failed.”
Having so often wished to come here and renew, on the ground,
the opinions and the course of action then pursued, it is a satisfac-
tion and a reward to find the Hungarian people all that the friends
of liberty throughout the world thought them to be—to find that
their quarrel with the Government of Austria was just—that they
had a right to be free—that they had the valor, the energy, the
intelligence which would have gained their freedom, but for such
combinations as no people ever had the ability to overcome.
When they had surmounted factious disputes, growing out of dif-
ferences of race, language, and religion in Hungary, their attempt
to achieve their independence, within necessary boundaries, was
the signal for antagonism, resistance, and civil war, in the sur-
rounding provinces of Croatia, Slavonia, Wallachia, and Transy]-
vania. The separation of Hungary from the German provinces of
Austria would be a dismemberment which the empire could not
survive. Russia, through the eyes of the Emveror Nicholas, saw
in it the restoration of the independence and sovereignty of Poland.
European nations, intent on commercial enterprise, shrank from
political agitation, which might reproduce the disasters of the
French Revolution of 1793. And now, we are required to decide
on the spot whether the sacrifices, which Tungary then made, were
entirely without avail; and whether her aspirations were impracti-
cable, and have perished with the failure of her revolution, leaving
her no remaining hope. The situation which Hungary occupies
718 EUROPE,
now satisfies all these hitherto painful inquiries. The march of
progress in Europe, since 1849, has proved irresistible. Austria
suffered by a fearful blow received from France, costing her practi-
cally her Italian dominions. Later, a blow from Germany, which
almost seemed to be fatal, has obliged her to give up the reac-
tionary policy to which she so tenaciously adhered, and at the same
time to fall back, as she must always fall back, on the resources,
the valor, and the loyalty of Hungary. The THungarians have
taken advantage of this emergency to secure from the Austrian
Empire a confirmation of all their cherished political rights and lib-
erties, without betraying the empire to its enemies. There is
hardly a political right or privilege, a citizen of the United States
enjoys, that is not now guaranteed to the subjects of Francis Jo-
seph in Hungary, except that one which no nation in Europe has
shown the courage to assume—the right of electing their own chief
magistrate by impartial suffrage. The concession of these rights in
Hungary has necessitated an equally popular reform in the other
parts of the empire; and although Hungary has failed to achieve
independent national existence, which she has never sincercly
striven for, she is carrying the whole Austrian Empire to a higher
plane of responsible government and popular freedom. Ih; may be
doubtful how the Austrian Government can sueceed in the new
political autonomy, which the persistence of Hungary, combined
with the embarrassments of the empire, has forced upon it; but it
is quite certain that in no case can Hungary lose the advantages
she has so deservedly gained. Considerations like these have
soothed the regret with which we have seen our revolutionary
friend, Count Pulsky, occupying a place in the councils of the em-
peror at Vienna; and the deeper sorrow with which we have scen,
everywhere here, that the remembrance of the martyrs of 1848, as
well as the names of the patriots who survived that period, Kos-
suth, Asboth, and Ujhazy, seems to be nearly forgotten.
Cn
Z
to
ie
4
>
eK
Fg2
ai 2
|
me n= FT rey
be hs Bbctaeee SE
Fewer ote
@2aéa 2
v=
On the Danube, July 18th.—The easiest and the best way to | quart
study political geography is to follow the navigation of great rive WH mam
ers. The Danube conveys and distributes among all nations the @ ¢les
_ The march of
sistible. Austria
osting her practi-
Germany, which
rive up the reac-
], and at the same
on the resources,
Hungarians have
rom the Austrian
ical rights and lib-
rvemies. There is
the United States
ets of Francis Jo-
tion in Europe has
ing their own chief
n of these rights in
reform in the other
as failed to achieve
1as never sincerely
Empire to a higher
Ti; may be
reedom.
neceed in the new
Hungary, combined
reed upon it; but it
lose the advantages
is like these have
our revolutionary
councils of the em-
vhich we have seen,
martyrs of 1848, as
d that period, Kos-
rgotten.
1d the best way to
gation of great TIV-
hong all nations the
VIENNA.
719
cereals of Central Europe. It is a pleasure, as you ascend its
strong though not dangerous current, to recall the history of Eu-
rope from the beginning ot Western civilization. The Danube
was the boundary which Roman conquests did not »ass until the
beginning of the decline of the empire. It was the h: “h-road of the
northern barbarians who avenged upon the empire ie aggression
and the insults they had received from the republic, and who, set-
tling down in their new conquests, submitted themselves to the
laws and religions of the enervated nations whom they had sub-
dued, and gave to Europe and the world the basis of a new and
higher civilization. In its whole length, from the Black Sea to
Vienna, the Danube was the battle-ground between Christianity
and Islainism; the boundary between them, continually shifting,
has scarcely yet been fixed. We iad a strong desire to follow the
majestic river to its navigal’e souree, in close neighborhood of the
thine, but time does not permit. We, therefore, left it at Pesth,
for the more rapid but less instructive travel by rail, and have
had a ten hours’ journey «fone hundred and forty miles. The soil
over which we have passcd, like that of the plain below Pesth, is
fertile; the landscape beautiful; the people universally industri-
ous, women sharing the field-labors equally with the men.
Vienna, July 21st.
Since leaving Constantinople, we have
been enjoying glimpses cf Western civilization, but only partial
glimpses, as if through long and shaded vistas. Now it seems
that we have rushed into its very centre as we entered the wide
and magnificent streets of Vienna. Those of our party who are
wtravelled in Europe asked, as we rolled from the station, through
broad and shaded avenues, bordered by palatial edifices, and orna-
mented with classic fountains and equestrian statues, to our hotel
which overlooks the fine boulevard on the ancient ramparts of the
tity, * Does London or Paris surpass this ?”
Vienna is, indeed, a great city. Its populetion exceeds three-
quarters of a million; its accumulated wealth is immense. Its
manufacture of scientific apparatus, musical instruments, and arti-
des of verte and luxury, is hardly inferior to that of Paris. Danks,
c:
é
<
ri
3
9
“4
rom
en enere nes TTT
‘oe bttatase STK ar OF
re 0 heh. dm
ghGe bi Reeke
720 EUROPE.
railroads, and navigation companies, grasp the commerce, not only
of the Danube, but of the Mediterranean, the Black Sea, and the
Levant. Its churches are built, by lavish contributions of dying
devotees, in perfected Gothic grandeur. Its royal and imperial
palaces are of the oldest of the European dynasties. Its universi-
ties, colleges, academies of art, its hospitals, and charities, rival
those of larger capitals. Its school of music is equalled only by
that of Leipsic. Of course, it was little of all this magnificence,
national and metropolitan, that we could see in the short period of
four days.
John Jay, our minister resident at Vienna, was in the moun-
tains when we arrived ; but he came promptly down to receive us,
and has extended to us the hospitalities of the legation. Ma. Dela.
plaine, the secretary of the legation, has been equally attentive,
Mr. Seward complimented Mr, Jay on his success in achieving the
negotiation of a naturalization convention with the Imperial Goy-
ernment. Perhaps no single event more strikingly illustrates the
rapidity of political progress in Austria than this treaty. In 1850,
Austria was on the verge of a rupture with the United States on
the occasion of the arrest of Martin Kostza on board an American
vessel at Trieste. In 1859, Mr. Seward, when here on a visit, was
coldly and distantly received by the emperor at an audience in the
Imperial Palace. Yesterday, coming here so soon after the Arch.
duke Maximilian’s unhappy catastrophe in Mexico, Mr. Seward wus
invited by the Count von Beust, prime-minister of the empire, toa
public dinner, given by that minister to the American representa-
tive and the diplomatic corps, by way of celebrating a naturaliza-
tion treaty with the United States, which recognizes the right of
all men, subjects of any government, to change their political alle. |
giance, and enjoy the protection of the state they prefer. Yet
more remarkable was it that the entertainment was given in the |
very hall in which the Congress of Vienna sat in 1815, to establish J
peace and give public law to Europe.
The political situation in Austria is more embarrassing than in |
any other country of Europe, except France. Unlike France, its
evils are chronic. The Austrian Empire is not in any sense a con-|
apa
Ri mm
vide
‘ts
binat
» commerce, not only
» Black Sea, and the
yntributions of dying
s royal and imperial
nasties. Its universi-
; and charities, rival
¢ is equalled only by
all this magnificence,
in the short period of
na, was in the moun-
tly down to receive us,
c legation. Mar, Dela.
seen equally attentive.
ecess in achieving the
with the Imperial Gov-
trikingly illustrates the
1 this treaty. In 1859,
the United States on
on board an American
hen here on a Visit, was
»at an audience in the
so soon after the Arch:
[exico, Mr. Seward was
ster of the empire, toa |
e American representa: |
elebrating a naturaliza-
‘ecognizes the right of
nge their political alle: |
tate they prefer. Yet)
nent was given in the
gat in 1815, to establis!
¢ embarrassing than i
ee. Unlike France, its]
not in any sense a con
COUNT VON BEUST. 721
(2
solidated nati i
olidated nation, but, in the course of five hundred years, has ag
rrecs » yy, povs arr he
gt oe by royal marriages or by conquest, a large number of
formerly independent. ki 3, principaliti
oF | ° t kingdoms, principalities, and duchies, in
"a 4 . 1A H ‘ ¢
durope. The present Austrian Empire consists of nine-
en separate sti > vot Pp aini :
teen separate states yet remaining of that aggregate, differing fr
each other in race, I: i ions chat cana
ace, language, habits, religion, customs, and com
meree—a part Germ: ar i
a part German, a part Magyar, a part Slave, a part Italian
’
COUNT VON BEUST.
bate Turkish, a part Greek. There are Mohammedans, Greeks
Roman Catholics, Jews, and Protestants. The Protestants are di
vided between Lutherans and Calvinists. These scatlbialitios ad
jets, necessarily separated from earch other, have been held in com-
mation by force only, without social assimilations. Of Austria
with its thirty-five million people, it must be said, as it cannot be said
of any other nation in the world, that there is no Austrian seople
ey pct
cottnnton el ae
Ef ad tae a te i A
caese Ss we oe
re
722 EUROPE.
The world knows its subjects by the names of their respective na
tionalitics or provinces only. Every one recognizes the subject of
France asa Frenchman; of Sweden, as a Swede; of Denmark, as
Dance; of Italy, as an Italian; of Russia, as a Russian—but we
know the subjects of Austria only as Bohemians, Hungarians, Ty-
rolese, Germans, Poles, Slavonians, and Wallachians. The empire
has hitherto had no common constitution. In the provinces of
Upper Austria and Lower Austria, the emperor rules as emperor:
while, in Bohemia and Hungary, he rules, not as emperor, but as
king of those countries respectively. There has been no common
legislature. Ile is despotic in some of the states; a constitutional
and limited monarch in some others. It may not be doubted that
the emperors of Austria have constantly desired and striven to
effect a consolidated empire. It is because they, on the one hand,
have usually aimed at effecting absolute unity by coercion, that
the several states, on the other, have striven to preserve absolute
independence by resistance. The absolute in any thing is unat.
tainable by man, although, as a general law, we attain any thing
desirable only by striving for the absolute. The great Maria The.
resa was the first who, with sagacity and energy, attempted the
task of unification. Joseph II. persevered with great fidelity in
the work ; but all this policy was shipwrecked in the general con-
vulsion of the Napoleonic wars, and Austria, under the administra-
tion of Metternich, became a victim of absolutism at home, and a
leader of that hated cause in Europe. Tis course eventuated in
the Hungarian insurrection of 1848. Upon the successful suppres:
sion of that revolution, the young monarch, Francis Joseph, inau-
gurated a new policy, comprising liberal reforms and concessions
of constitutional liberty to the respective states. The jealousies of
these states, however, have thus far rendered every attempt at a
common and equal basis of government impracticable. It remains
to be seen whether an harmonious constitution of the empire can
ever be established.
How can it be hoped for after such continued failures? It
may, because the Danube is the great river of Europe. Its
branches are the granary and the vineyard of a large portion of
—_—_ —
their respective na
mizes the subject of
de; of Denmark, as
; a Russian—but we
ins, Hungarians, Ty-
chians. The empire
In the provinces of
ror rules as emperor:
t as emperor, but as
has been no common
ates; a constitutional
>not be doubted that
esired and striven to
hey, on the one hand,
nity by coercion, that
. to preserve absolute
in any thing is wnat:
», we attain any thing
The great Maria The:
energy, attempted the
with great fidelity in
d in the general con-
| under the administra.
utism at home, and a
course eventuated in
the successful suppres:
Francis Joseph, inau:
forms and concessions
tes. The jealousies of
ed every attempt ata
‘aeticable. It remains
ion of the empire can
ntinued failures ? It
iver of Europe. Its
oe . at
of a large portion 0
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE. 723
the world, and supply the elements of commerce for half of Eu-
rope. The nations or states which occupy these banks must have
the protection and defence that all states require. This protection
must be afforded by distant states on the Atlantic coast or on the
Bosporus. Hitherto the German race on one side, and the Turk-
ish race on the other, have contended for dominion on the Danube.
But the Turkish Government has at last become effete, while the
German race has found a permanent line of geographical division.
The time has come when consolidation can be successfully main-
tained at the centre of the Danubian plain. It is not easy to fore-
see how much or what part of the German race may yet drop off
from Austria, and be incorporated into the German Empire. But,
whether that diminution or abatement of the Austrian Empire be
more or less, enough of its population and resources will remain to
constitute a nation extending from the Bosporus to Germany and
Italy, and embracing enough of the space between the Russian
boundary and the Mediterranean to make a great empire. Nor
can this Austro-[Tungarian Empire fail to dominate on the Medi-
terrancan shore from the Adriatic to the Sea of Marmora. It may
be asked whether, in this view, we do not accept Austria as a perma-
nently imperial or despotic government. We think not. For the
transition from despotism to republicanism is due to agencies which
more or less pervade the whole world, or at least the civilized por-
tion of it. Nations may change their forms of government with-
out at all affecting their domestic policy in their relation to foreign
states. Meantime, it is an occasion of sincere satisfaction to wit-
ness the progress of material and social improvement that has been
made on the banks of the Danube. When we look at the vigorous
and varied agriculture, and the stupendous works of material im-
provement which they exhibit, we might almost fancy ourselves at
home in the United States.
PISUSAINA
®
4
oo room comer er oF rce
a i fF Gee oo. ee od
be 5 ph he) pe
1aG bee «
CHAPTER III.
ITALY.
Venice.—American Knights Templars. —Florence.—Attractiveness of the City.—Rome.
—The Coliseum.-—Cardinal Antonelli and the Pope.—Interview with the Pope.—
The Italian Minister of Foreign Affairs.—The Schools of Art.—Naples.—Vesuvius,
Early Civilization on the Mediterranean Coast.—Naples, the Newport of the Roman
Empire.—Genoa.—Susa.—Prospeets of Italy.
Venice, July 25th.—We expected to find Venice in a dilapi-
dated and sinking condition. On the contrary, while a large
number of its palaces and wharves are empty and idle, there is at
present a pervading air of activity and cheerfulness. What can be
the cause of this? Venice has become, in its decline, a resort for
the studious, the contemplative, and the pleasure-secking classes
throughout ail Europe. It is, indeed, a watering-place like New-
port, and we happen to be here in the fashionable season. We
were startled this morning by a request of the good keeper of our
hotel, that we would set our dinner-hour for the day at either tive
or seven o’clock, because at six he was to furnish a feast to “ fifty
Knights Templars in full regalia!”
We thought we had read history in vain. We had supposed
that ancient and chivalrous order, driven from the East by the
Saracens, had been extirpated five hundred years ago throughout
Europe. We thought—
‘The knights’ bones are dust,
Their good swords rust,
Their souls are with the saints, we trust.”
all
in
ries
oth
apa
Tri
of ]
INee
rope
and
strec
any
one
ple.
ence
Vien
ess of the City.—Rome.
erview with the Pope.—
Art. —Naples, Vesuvius,
» Newport of the Roman
Tenice in a dilapi-
ary, while a large
and idle, there is at
ness. What can be
decline, a resort for
suve-secking classes
ng-place like New-
nable season. We
eood keeper of our
1e day at either five
ish a feast to “ fifty
We had supposed
n the East by the
ars ago throughout
rust.”
FLORENCE,
725
What was our surprise to learn, not only that fifty of them are
uive and well, but that they were in our lodging in full armor, and
that they are our own countrymen! They belonged to the Ma-
sonic order, and were making the tour of Europe together.
Florence, July 27th.—Gray Apennine Mountains, with dash-
ing torrents, bright and cloudless skies, balmy breezes, rich and
highly-cultivated plains, with winding rivers and laughing vine-
yards, picturesque rural architecture, storied castles, romantic vil-
las, these are the surroundings of Florence. We can now, for the
first time, appreciate the art of Claude Lorraine, and the poetry of
Virgil, Dante, and Milton.
Leaving the Golden Gate nearly a year ago, we have traversed
the earth’s circumference more than sixteen thousand miles before
we obtained our first glimpse of cheerful European society at Pesth.
In brightness, dignity, and repose, the view of it has improved at
every step of our descent of the Alps and the Apennines.
It being midsummer, no one is in town. Mr. Marsh, United
States minister, greets us in a letter from the mountains, where he
is detained by illness in his family. King, ministers, and court,
all are said to have gone to Rome to reorganize the state of Italy
in that ancient capital; but in reality, like the political functiona-
ries of Austria, they are enjoying the mountains, the sea-side, and
other pleasure-resorts. We found, without difficulty, pleasant
apartments in the //étel de [ Europe, near the Piazzi della Santa
Trinita. This morning Mr. Wurtz, the United States secretary
of legation, came with our letters, and has given us kind assist-
ance in our hurried explorations of this, the most delightful of Ku-
ropean citics. The first impression we reccive is, that the edifices
and dwellings of Florence are majestic and solemn, while the
streets are broader, more perfectly paved, and cleanly kept, than
any others in the world, The next impression is, that the people
one meets are more gentle and accomplished than any other peo-
ple. ILow marvellous is the contrast in this respect between Flor-
ence and Yeddo, Peking, Caleutta, Cairo, Constantinople, or even
Vienna !
ISUSAINA
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ENTRANCE INTO ROME, (27
It has been a subject of curious inquiry for us why Florence,
more than any other Italian city—indeed, more than any city in
Europe—is attractive to Americans as well as to the English. The
reason, we think, is, that the great ideas which the world has de-
rived from the philosophy, poetry, and art of Italy, have produced
in the character of the people of Florence a harmony with the
more enlightened social life of those two nations. It was a touch-
ing illustration of this truth, that we found, in the foreign cemetery
of Florence, the tombs of Theodore Parker, Elizabeth Barrett
Browning, and Louise Kuhn, daughter of Charles Francis Adams.
Rome, July 29th.—Even if Rome retains a consciousness of her
identity with the City of the Emperors, she could not complain as
the lady of the harem in Constantinople did, that we had rushed
into her presence irreverently.
Leaving Ilorence this morning, we passed through, what so long
has been the patrimony of St Peter, the States of the Church, but
which has just now been absorbed into the new kingdom of Italy.
The Italian mountain scenery contrasts strikingly with that of the
Tyrol—the latter covered with forests, chiefiy evergreen, alternating
with fields of corn and wheat—the former gray and rocky, relieved
by the bluish-green olive-orchards, and the @2ep rich verdure of
the chestnut. Old cities and villas, built not on the plain, but on
mountain-tops, call up memories of medizeval history. The railroad
winds for many miles around the picturesque Lago di Trasimeno, a
view of which must compensate us for the loss of the sight of the
beautiful Lago Maggiore. The entrance into Rome, nay, the very
approach to it, is accompanied with an unpleasant fecling of the
confusion of the ancient with the modern. That long arcade, which
you see on the left, is the still remaining, though broken aqueduct
@ of the ancient city. That medieval gate through which we enter
isa structure not unlike the Cashmere gate at Delhi, or the Damas-
cs gate of Jerusalem. This fine, well-built square is the railroad-
tation, And now, as we are rattling through compact, solid, mod-
en streets, a fountain comes into view, in which Neptune is drawn
his floating car by tritons, while the foaming water breaks over
128 EVROPE.
a broad, rocky bssin. We have scarcely time to notice this foun-
tain, before we pass “vajan’s Column, its base sunk in the deep
plain and its capital towering above the city. And now we enter
the court of the Hotel Costanzi, the whole of which, we are told, is
at our service.
Dinner cannot detain the traveller, however weary, on the first
day of his stay in the Eternal City. Where do we go, then? To
the Coliseum. Where else couid a stranger pass his first evening
in Rome, and that, too, a moonlight one ¢
When we caine under the dark shadow of the stupendovs ruin,
a courteous Italian sentinel assisted us to alight, and indicated the
passage. Here was a change! When in Rome in 1859, a French
soldier repulsed us from this gate at night, because we had not an
3 order of admission from the commandant of the French army of
ea occupation. At the same time a French bugler, standing under the
ri arch of the Temple of Peace, on the opposite side of the street,
F made the surrounding rum echo with the notes of a French martial
¥) air.
oD We then remarked that it was not always so; the Roman once §
i \ ould have cut down the Gaul who should have intruded here
= with sweh warlike flonrish. It is fortunate for us now that the
i modern Gaul has withd:awn from the ancient city, and the more
re niwiable Roman has resumed the care of its monuments.
: After all, the first visit to the Coliseum should be by sunlight,
ry vecause the curiosity concerning its real form, proportions, and
wd uses, is too strong to admit of the indulgence of imagination, which
3 only enhances beauty at the cost of accuracy of vision. Neverthe- q
L) less, the light of the moon, streaming into the great arena, enabled @
us to form an idea of the general outline and design of the immense
structure. Those four tiers or stories of stone benches seated a |
hundred thousand Romans. These vaulted chambers of the base-
ment held the gladiators prepared for their deadly encounters; a
these others, the wild beasts, and those beyond, the captive Chris: Kae
tians, who were to perish in the unequal combat. This spacious J
chamber is where the emperor sat while presiding over the savage
amusement. This arena must have drunk oceans of blood, since,
s,
ie to notice this foun-
ase sunk in the deep
- And now we enter
which, we are told, is
ver weary, on the first
do we go, then? To
‘ pass his first evening
the stupendovs ruin,
ght, and indicated the
yme in 1859, a French
because we had not an
f the French army of
q
i
ler, standing under the
ROM
site side of the street,
es of a French martial
»s03 the Roman once
COLISEUM,
1 have intruded here
for us now that the
THE
nt city, and the more
jonuments.
should be by sunlight,
rm, proportions, and
of imagination, which
of vision. Neverthe-
» great arena, enabled
design of the immense
one benches seated a
chambers of the base-
ir deadly encounters;
nd, the captive Chris:
mmbat. This spacious
siding over the savage
weeans of blood, since,
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during a single festival, beasts and men were slaughtered by the
thousand; and the same walls that new give back to us the voices
of monks, performing midnight orisons, then resounded with the
fearful acclamations of the multitude, which unmercitully doomed
the vanquished gladiator.
Our feelings were so intensely absorbed in these reflections,
that we did not care to clamber among the ruined arches, or
through the shrubs entangled with vines- which festoon and some.
times choke them. How does the Coliseum, the most stupen-
dous of Roman monuments compare with Karnak or Luxor in
Egypt ?
The Coliseum is built of brick and stone; Karnak and Luxor
are built with monoliths of granite. The Coliseum was adapted
to the tastes and habits of men; Karnak and Luxor were con-
structed for the uses of the gods. The Coliseum is great ; Karnak
and Luxor are gigantic. Others may study monuments for their
architectural grandeur or beauty, but we must regard them as mile-
stones marking the progress of the world’s civilization. The Coli-
seum, built to commemorate the consummation of the Roman Em-
p.re, remains equally a monument of its decline and extinction. It
commemorates the fulness and completeness of the conquest of the
world by the Roman people. It was the place in which they cele-
brated their triumph.
August 3d.—Immediately on our arrival here, Dr. Smith, pro-
fessor in the College of the Propaganda, Mr. Seward’s old friend,
to whom we are indebted for many courtesies, asked: ‘* Will you
see the Pope and Cardinal Antonelli?”
The question had peculiar significance, since it is only within
the last month that the King of Italy made his formal entry into
Nome, and established the national authority within the capital, to
the exclusion of the political supremacy of the Pope. Mr. Seward
said that he would certainly be happy to receive any consideration
at the hands of the Italian Government, but should on no account
fail to pay his respects to his Holiness and to the cardinal. They
were just and friendly toward the United States during her hour
libe
of I
apal
tion
the
kno’
whil
slaughtered by the
yack to us the voices
resounded with the
nmercifully doomed
in these reflections,
e ruined arches, or
h festoon and some-
n, the most stupen-
carnak or Luxor in
Karnak and Luxor
oliseum was adapted
nd Luxor were con-
um is great ; Karnak
nonuments for their
regard them as mile-
rilization. The Coli-
1 of the Roman Em-
e and extinction. It
’ the conquest of the
e in which they cele-
rere, Dr. Smith, pro-
Seward’s old friend,
s, asked: ‘ Will you
ce it is only within
his formal entry into
vithin the capital, to
» Pope. Mr. Seward
ve any consideration
should on no account
the cardinal. They
htes during her hout
CARDINAL ANTONELLI.
bre
io
of trial, and had shown him personally kind hospitality when he
was here in 1859. He considers it his duty to cherish enduring
friendship toward all who in the supreme hour of American struggle
were just and faithful to his country or himself.
The Cardinal Antonelli, with whom Mr. Seward has enjoyed
a personal acquaintance for many years, and who is one among
the few statesmen of Europe that have always been just an?
CARDINAL ANTONELLL
liberal toward the United States, received him and the members
of his party with distinguished courtesy in his splendid suite of
apartments at the Vatican. Brought doubtless by sincere convi
tion, as well as by the policy of the Holy See, into conflict with
the progressive spirit of the age, the cardinal-secretary, as all
know, is not a favorite in republican circles at home or abroad,
while all must acknowledge him to be a man of great sagacity, of
ISUSAINN
732 EUROPE.
political fidelity, of high accomplishments, and refined manners.
The conversation between him and Mr, Seward was cordial and
without reserve. It turned first on the great events which had
recently occurred in the United States; the suppression of the re-
bellion, the overthrow of slavery, the firm establishment of the
Union, and the reconciliation consequent upon the conflict. The
cardinal expressed himself as not surprised that the public justice
of the United States inconsistently allowed the escape of the con-
spirator Suratt, whom the Pope had, without previous treaty, and
without conditions, so promptly ordered to be arrested and _ le-
livered on Mr. Seward’s demand.
The conversation then turned on the political situation in Rome.
The Roman question is settled; the Italians have Rome; there is
no prospect of immediate change, but the Pope will not leave the
Vatican. He has remained there for many months, and he will
not leave it voluntarily for any other residence in Rome or out of
it. He will not compromise; he will wait. “ Non possumus ”—
the words produced a smile—is the only maxim which his Holiness
‘an practise when required by man to betray a trust committed to
him by God.
We were informed, yesterday, that his Holiness would receive
Mr. Seward in a private audience at eleven o’clock to-day, and at
twelve o’clock he would receive the. two ladies in the public audi-
ence, and Dr. Smith was requested to be present and to act as inter-
preter for the party. On the stroke of eleven, Mr. Seward and Dr.
Smith having reached the Hall of the Throne, Monsignore Ricci,
Maestro di Camera, announced that his Holiness was waiting to
receive Mr. Seward. He followed monsignore through several
spacious and richly-furnished antechambers, passing crowds of prel-
ates who were awaiting an audience. Among these dignitaries
were occasionally seen priests, easily distinguishable by the plain-
ness of their dress, and an appearance of timidity. Monsignore
Ricci having opened the door of the chamber in which the Pope
was sitting alone, then retired. The Holy Father instantly arose,
and, coming quite to the door, extended both his hands, taking
those of Mr. Seward. On a slightly-raised dais, at the upper end
port
com
6
char
one,
worl
tigh
unto
duty
ence
to ol
tion.
d refined manners.
wd was cordial and
t events which had
ypression of the re-
stablishment of the
. the conflict. The
i the public justice
escape of the con-
previous treaty, and
be arrested and le-
ul situation in Rome.
ave Rome; there is
e will not leave the
months, and he will
ec in Rome or out of
‘Non possumus ”—
n which his Holiness
a trust committed to
liness would receive
clock to-day, and at
5 in the public audi-
t and to act as inter-
Mr. Seward and Dr.
», Monsignore Ricci,
yess was waiting to
we through several
ksing crowds of prel-
ig these dignitaries
shable by the plain-
iidity. Monsignore
‘in which the Pope
ther instantly arose,
1 his hands, taking
s, at the upper end
:
POPE. "92
INTERVIEW WITIL TIE 13
of the chamber, were two chairs, by the side of a small writing-
table. The Pope placed Mr. Seward in one of these, and sat down
in the other. We are informed that hitherto this form of reception
has been accorded only to sovereigns and princes.
His Holiness opened the audience by expressing to Mr. Seward
a grateful appreciation of the liberality and sympathy which he
always experiences at the hands of the American people, and his
gratification at receiving Mr. Seward again at Rome.
Mr. Seward said that in a time when many European govern-
ments and statesmen were very illiberal and unfriendly to the Uni-
ted States, his Holiness had proved himself just, considerate, and
friendly. It was a great satisfaction to him to have an opportu-
nity to make this acknowledgment in person, and to congratulate
his Holiness on his good health. The Holy Father then frecly
alluded to his present political situation. Referring to the guaran-
tees for his safety and support which were proposed to him by Vic-
tor Emmanuel, he said: ‘I have no personal desire to reign, but I
have a trust to keep, and to transmit to my successor. This trust
is the patrimony of the See of St. Peter, which I received in my
election. The guarantees offered by the Italians are a mockery
andasnare. I am a prisoner in chains here, just as my prede-
cessor St. Peter was in vinculis. I am aware of my situation.
The kings of this world are all too busy to extend me any help in
this emergency. I can only look to the King of kings for sup-
port. My resolution is taken; come what may, I will make no
compromise. Von possumus!”
“oly Father,” replied Mr. Seward, “the question of the
change of relations between you and the King of Italy is a new
one, hardly yet ripened into a general discussion. The civilized
world will consider and pass upon it, and their decision will be
right. Christian nations, while they know their . ity to ‘render
unto Cesar the things that are Cyesar’s,’ know also that it is their
duty to render unto God the things that are God’s.’ The experi-
ence of mankind hitherto has shown that they are quite as careful
to obey the latter precept as they are to fulfil the former injunc-
tion.” ;
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734 EUROPE,
Mr. Seward then referred to the confidential mission which
Archbishop Hughes had executed at Rome during the American
civil war.
The Pope lamented the early death of the archbishop as a great
loss to the Church and to the two countries.
Mr. Seward adverted to the loyalty to the American Union of
the Roman Catholic hierarchy, as well as their people, and said
that, for encouraging this loyalty, the late archbishop was entitled
to the highest place. ‘Of one thing,” said he, “your Holiness
may be sure—the United States can never be unjust to any just
nation, or ungrateful to any friendly state.”
The Pope passed his hands over Mr. Seward’s face, examining
the fractures and scars remaining, and then exclaimed: * Your
escape was a miracle!” He inquired largely concerning Mr. Sew-
ard’s family, his son Frederick, his wounds and his recovery, other
children, and their occupations, in a manner most affectionate, and,
alluding to the ladies, said he should soon have the pleasure of
meeting them.
Finally rising, the Pope went to a cabinet, and, taking from it
a silver medal containing his likeness which has just been struck
by the Roman nobility in commemoration of his iaving attained
the twenty-fifth anniversary of his pontificate, requested Mr. Sew-
ard to accept it, and keep it in remembrance of him. The Pope
then conducted Mr. Seward to the door, saying, “ I will soon join
you in the Consistory.”
Meantime, the ladies had been conducted by Monsignore Ricci
to the “ private Consistory.” It is one of the historical chambers
of the Vatican. Here the Pope creates cardinals and announces
bishops; here he pronounces those allocutions which are even
now implicitly received by the faithful, and which once shook the
thrones of the Christian world. During the present pontificate,
the hall has been frescoed and draped for the reception especially
of ladies. It was in this chamber that the Pope received the Avch-
duke Maximilian of Austria and the Princess Carlotta, and pro-
nounced his blessing on their attempt to establish a throne in
Mexico; and it was in this chamber that, on her return from that
je
th
the
kn
lai
eaC
lily
del
ero
stay
the
of |
ntial mission which
luring the American
archbishop as a great
American Union of
heir people, and said
chbishop was entitled
| he, “your Holiness
be unjust to any just
rard’s face, examining
n exclaimed : Your
concerning Mr. Sew-
nd his recovery, other
most affectionate, and,
have the pleasure of
t, and, taking from it
1 has just been struck
f hig Laving attained
e, requested Mr. Sew-
e of him. The Pope
ing, “I will soon join
| by Monsignore Ricci
ie historical chambers
dinals and announces
ions which are even
vhich once shook the
e present pontificate,
e reception especially
ype received the Aveh-
ess Carlotta, and pro-
establish a throne in
her return from that
THE
POPE AND THE LADIES, TBH
dow
ill-starred expedition, the frenzied princess, refusing to leave volun-
tarily, was forcibly carried trom the papal presence.
During the hour of Mr. Seward’s audience with the Pope, some
fifty ladies, many of them with children, entered the Consistory,
and formed into groups on the left side of the chamber below the
dais on which stands the papal throne. The two ladies of our
party were standing on the opposite side of the room, where they
were joined by Mr. Seward and Dr, Smith, the private audience
being ended. All the ladies were dressed, according to the court
requirement, in high, black dresses, with the Spanish veil, and
without gloves. All the children were dressed in white, and car-
ried lilies for presentation to his Holiness. Just before twelve
o’clock all the ladies, with the children, arranged themselves along
the opposite side of the room. Precisely at twelve, the Pope en-
tered, from a door at the side of the dais, attended by cardinals
and other prelates and officers. Among these dignitaries were the
Cardinal Secretary of State Antonelli; Monsignore di Merode, late
Minister of War; Monsignore Pacca, Maggiordomo; Cardinal
Prince Lucien Bonaparte ; General Barberini, Duke of Castel Vee-
chio, and commander-in-chief of the Guarda Nobile. The Pope wore
a white woollen cassock, with a yellow-satin sash, and gold fringe
hanging under his left arm. On his head was the crimson zwe-
chetto ; on his finger the * Fisherman’s Ring,” a pietra dura, with
the device emblematic of the Immaculate Conception, but without
jewels. One of the cardinals bore his red hat on a cushion. As
the Pope entered the chamber, all present rose to their feet ; he
then proceeded along and in front of the line of devotees, who
kneeled and remained in that position until he had passed. Ie
laid both hands on the head of each woman and child, saying to
each some words in Italian in a low voice. Each child presented a
lily with its little hand, which the Pope received graciously, and
delivered to a cardinal. When he had passed the entire line, he
crossed the room to the place where Mr. Seward and his party were
standing with Dr. Smith. The Pope extended a hand to each of
the ladies, and expressed his satisfaction in meeting the children
of his friend Mr. Seward, and proceeded to make inquiries as to
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their travels and how they had enjoyed themselves. Alluding to
Mr. Seward’s infirm hands, he asked which of the ladies was taking
the notes of his travels, thanked her for doing so, and expressed a
hope that she would continue to do it faithfully. He further asked
the ladies if they saw any of the sufferers in the massacre at Tien-
Tsin, and, on being answered that they saw only the bishop, who
had given them some of the relics of the martyr Sister Louise, he
said they were precious tokens. He asked in which country they
enjoyed their travels most, and his benevolent face beamed with a
smile when they told him “Italy.” When the ladies presented
some rosaries and crosses brought from Jerusalem, and asked him
to bless them, he replied, smiling: “Oh, yes; I bless them, but
they are sanctified already.” At length, after many minutes of
such gentle conversation, he expressed his regret that they did not
speak Italian, as in that case he would desire to talk much longer
with them. Then, taking once more a kindly leave, he returned to
‘the dais.
Standing there, he pronounced a short exhortation, all the Cath-
olics remaining on their knees. He said: “I thank you all for
your kindness in coming to see me. I hope that all my beloved
children will hold steadfast in the faith, and grow in grace and
in good works.” Then, extending his arms he added, in a soft,
melodious voice: “To all I will extend the apostolic benediction ;
to yourselves, your children, your parents, and your friends. I
bless you, in the name of the Father who created you, of the Son
who redeemed you, and of the Holy Ghost who sanctifieth you, and
in an especial manner I bless the brave young women from Amer-
ica standing with Father Smith at my right hand. They do not yet
belong to ime, but I charge Father Smith to take care of them
while they are in Rome, and give them such counsel and instruc-
tion as will bring them at last into the fold of Christ’s flock.
shal! vray for their safe return to their native land.”
ast the close of this address his Holiness retired, with his suite.
August 10th.—Since our arrival in Italy, the Italian Govern-
ment has been engaged in the act of removing from Florence to
selves. Alluding to
he ladies was taking
so, and expressed a
+, He further asked
he massacre at Tien-
mly the bishop, who
rtyr Sister Louise, he
: which country they
t face beamed with a
the ladies presented
salem, and asked him
98; I bless them, but
ter many minutes of
vret that they did not
. to talk much longer
y leave, he returned to
hortation, all the Cath-
“T thank you all for
o that all my beloved
nd grow in grace and
s he added, in a soft,
apostolic benediction ;
| and your friends. I
reated you, of the Son |
sho sanctifieth you, and
ng women from Amer:
hand. ‘They do not yet
to take care of them
h counsel and instrue-
Nd of Christ’s flock. ]
e land.”
retired, with his suite.
y, the Italian Govern:
pving from Florence to
VISCONTI VENOSTA,
737
Victor Emmanuel has
Rome, henceforth to be the national capital.
been received, and, so to speak, reclaimed at Rome. The Palace
of the Quirinal is undergoing repair for his royal residence. The
Legislative Hall and editices are being reconstructed for the execu-
tive departments; and the ministers of the Government, as well as
the foreign ministers, have ostensibly taken up their residence
here. In this transition stage, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, the
Visconti Venosta, though here only for two days, exchanged visits
to-day with Mr. Seward. He was quite as free in his account of
the embarrassment which the Italian Government suffers from the
obstinacy of the Pope, as his Holiness was in his account of his
duresse in the Vatican. The Visconti Venosta represents that the
Italian people, while they have become practically unanimous in
favor of the kingdom and the rvle of Victor Emmanuel, have lost, on
the other hand, little or none of tiir veneration for the Pope, and
their sense of obedience due to him as the head of the Church. It
is difficult, in the present condition of affairs, to find a boundary-
line between the ecclesiastical and civil authority, which will! sat-
isfy the people. He denied, with much warmth, the allegation
that the Pope is under dwresse, and says that it is neither necessary
nor is it intended to deprive him of any of the privileges or proper-
ties which, as head of the Church, he enjoys, further than to trans-
fer to the Government of the state the military force and the
revenues heretofore derived by him from taxation. “He will
live and die,” said the Visconti Venosta, “free to exercise the full
offices of the pontificate in the Vatican, and everywhere else in
{taly.”
We must not leave it to be inferred that we have been inatten-
tive to the modern schools of art in Rome. If we have not related
our visits to the studios of our countrymen and women, it is because
they are, with tout le monde, absent at this season from Rome.
We have admired, as every one must, Story’s Cleopatra, and the
Sibyl; and we have visited Benzoni, perhaps now the head of the
Italian school. It is manifestly true, as the world says, that the
chisels of Canova and Thorwaldsen, and other modern sculptors,
have not attained the science and skill of the Italian school of the
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middle ages, or those of ancient Greece; but the reason prob-
ably is, that those former schools flourished in an age and under
conditions which concentrated the thoughts of mankind upon
art; while our own age, more practical, gives precedence to en-
terprises and achievements of greater political and social pith and
moment.
Naples, August 11th.—It is a ten hours’ jutrney from Rome
to Naples. We can say little more of it than that it is a ride,
under the cloudless Italian sky, across the Campagna, and thence a
winding way through native oak-forests, ascending and descending
river-banks, and Apennine valleys covered with vines and corn,
until from the mountain-bound coast you descend to the populous
brink of the unrivalled circular Bay of Naples.
In the afternoon, a small, light, fleecy cloud, which changed its
form with every passing breeze, still tenaciously kept its place near
the top of a dark, lofty, not irregular mountain. This was the
smoke of burning Vesuvius. But no scortw reached the plain
through which we passed, nor did a glare of flame appear until
nightfall, when, after our arrival, we were contemplating the moun-
tain from the balcony of our hotel. Then, what had been a pillar
of smoke by day, became a column of flame. A serpentine river
of fire was seen flowing down the mountain-side.
It would be an unprofitable, if not a vain attempt, to trace the
early civilization on the Italian or even the African coast of the
Mediterranean. We should be lost, with the ancient antiquarians,
Dion Cassius and Dionysius Halicarnassus, in the mazes of inqui-
ries concerning the movements of the ‘“ Phcenicians,” the “ Pelas-
gians,” the “ Autochthones,” the “ Indigenes,” and * Alpine immi-
grants.” But, long before the Roman state was organized on the
hanks of the Tiber, the Greeks had planted towns and attained a
certain stage of civilization on the sea-coast. Brundusium (now
3rindisi), Pompeii, Hercuiuzneum, Neapolis (now Naples), Capua,
Puteoli, Bais, and Marseilles, were among those towns, and were
afterward absorbed in the Roman Empire. The advantages of the
Bay of Naples in regard to Oriental commerce, the conveniences it
t the reason prob-
an age and under
of mankind upon
; precedence to en-
and social pith and
wiumey from Rome
n that it is a ride,
:pagna, and thence a
ding and descending
ith vines and corn,
cend to the populous
.
a, which changed its
ly kept its place near
‘tain. This was the
‘ reached the plain
{ flame appear until
emplating the moun-
hat had been a pillar
A serpentine river
de.
attempt, to trace the
African coast of the
ancient antiquarians,
the mazes of inqui-
icians,” the “ Pelas-
> and “ Alpine immi-
vas organized on the
owns and attained a
Brundusium (now
now Naples), Capua,
ose towns, and were
he advantages of the
», the conveniences it
GENOA.
739
afforded for military and naval expeditions, the beauty and salu-
brity of its position, and its mineral springs, attracted there the
wealth, the pomp, the ostentation, the literature, and art, of the
capital. Judging from the relation of Brighton to the British
capital, or Baden-Baden to Germany, or Newport to the United
States, we could hardly estimate the importance which the shores
of the Bay of Naples then enjoyed. Rome was a well-consolidated
empire, two thousand miles long, one thousand miles broad, trav-
ersed by a perfect and safe high-road from York in England to
Jerusalem. It embraced all the great cities of the world, it had
two admirable languages, and a greater unity prevailed in all de-
partments of civilization than ever before existed, and scarcely less
than that which the world now enjoys. Puteoli was really the sea-
gate of Rome. Nymphs, naiads, sirens, and genii, dwelt in the
grottos and blue-ocean caves around the shore. If Jupiter did not
remove there from Olympus, his swiftest messenger permanently
established himself at Baise, and Venus abandoned Cyprus for this
fascinating coast. The Sibyls held the book of fate, whose decrees
even Jupiter could not reverse, in their grotto at Cume. On the
shores of the Bay of Naples, also, was the hell which in all ages
has filled the imagination with the terrors of a future state, and
the Elysian Fields of the blest, whose name even our religion
adopts as most descriptive of the felicity which awaits the “just
made perfect.”
Genoa, August 18th.—The courteous waving of the stars and
stripes from our mast-head soon brought the consul on board, and
we have given twenty-four hours to Genoa. It has shown us its
magnificent harbor and almost impregnable fortifications, its nar-
row but neat and busy streets, the palaces and villas of its doges
and noblemen, of many parties and generations; and its cathedrals
and churches, all of which have justly won for the city its title “la
Superba.” We have seen its colleges, schools, and universities; its
academies of art and science; its manufactories of delicate fabrics
and jewelry; its statuary, paintings, monuments, and relics, and
the trophies of which it is so justly proud. These all sustain the
740 EUROPE.
noble historic record of the Genoese in commerce, as the successors
of the Venetians; in arms, as not merely vigorous in self-defence
against the rival states of Pisa and Venice, but in conquests in
:
:
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Spain, Sardinia, Greece, and Asia Minor; in wars, not merely for
self-defence or conquest, but of successful battles and sieges for the
Cross—a career full of prosperity and faith, now ended, after many
revolutions, in the peaceful contentment of a united and respected
Italy.
ar ur &
i £2-} ped
ee ate &
Susa, August 19¢h.—It has been a matter of much regret that
we were obliged to leave Milan unseen, and to come through
Turin without stopping at the last capital of the kingdom of Sar-
dinia, and the first one of restored Italy. But Mr. Seward was
there during his former visits to Europe, and especially enjoyed
an acquaintance with Victor Emmanuel, and the great restorer of
ADIEU TO ITALY. 741
ce, as the successors
srous in self-defence
but in conquests in
Italy, Count Cavour, who was then in retirement on account of
the Treaty of Villa Franca. It must, therefore, be enough to set
down the observation that, not only has the restoration of Italian
unity or nationality originated in Piedmont, but that, in these
mountain-regions, the sentiment of the equality of man, which is
conducting all nations toward the republican system of govern-
ment, has had, if not its origin, at least early and vigorous de-
velopment.
The separation of Church and state is essential to the advance-
ment of modern Italy. This seems to be in the way of accomplish-
ment. It is not to be expected, nor is it perhaps to be desired, that
the people of Italy, trained in the ritual and traditions of the
Church, will all at once renounce the ecclesiastical authority of the
Pope and become Protestant. But ecclesiastics are not different
from other men. They can learn to submit in temporal affairs to
the authority of the state, when they can no longer control it.
Yet the permancnt restoration of Italy involves another difficulty,
which is of a different kind, and a much greater one. Italy, in or-
der to succecd, must cast off monarchy and become a republic. A
federal republic cannot exist with a large standing army. No state
in Europe is safe against the ambition of monarchical states with-
out a large standing army. Moreover, it is yet to be scen whether
these reviving, opulent, prosperous, and intelligent cities, which so
lately and so tong made the fair fields of Italy the scene of their
fratricidal conflicts, will be content now to acquiesce in the restora-
tion of Rome to its ancient and long-maintained supremacy.—Adieu
to Italy !
wars, not merely for
tles and sieges for the
now ended, after many
a united and respected
y of much regret that
and to come through
f the kingdom of Sar
But Mr. Seward was
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CHAPTER IV.
SWITZEKLAND AND FRANCE,
Geneva,-—The Alps.—The Tunnel of Mont Cenis.—Passports.—American Fondness for
Switzerland.—Berne.—Swiss Statesmen and Politics.—Distress of France—The
Franco-Germen War.—Lord Lyons.—Mr. Washburne.——Versailles.—The French
Assembly.—President Thiers —A Dinner with President Thiers.—Condition of
France.—M. Drouyn de Lhuys.—M. Laboulaye—Dr. Evans and the Empress Eu.
génie—Aspect of Paris.—Prospects of France.
Geneva, August 21st.—We have had two delicious days on the
Alps. From Susa in Piedmont, we went, by a pass six thousand
feet high, around a peak eleven thousand feet above the sca, to
Chambéry in Savoy; thence up the valley of the Rhone. The Al-
pixe region, thus traversed, is colder and more sterile than any we
have passed. Eternai glaciers are suspended from the peaks of
mountains, down their sides, the rapid torrents of which serve 3s
fountains for the Po on the one side and the Rhone on the other.
Among many interesting antiquities at Susa, one, thoroughly ir-
structive, is the inscription, over its ancient gate-way, enumerating
the eleven native tribes of the mountain-region, and reciting that
the king surrenders his authority and assumes the title of prefect @
under the dominion of the divine Emperor Augustus. |
So it seems to have been from the beginning of the world!
States are built by overcoming and extinguishing petty, defenceless, |
and contentious tribes. So the United States have extended their
dominion, from Plymouth to San Francisco, from the St. Lawrence
to the Rio Grande.
The Alps, which, from time immemorial, have been the barrier |
CE.
rts.— American Fondness for
_—Distress of France.—The
1e,-- Versailles. —The French
sident Thiers.—Condition of
Evans and the Empress Eu-
© delicious days on the
by a pass six thousand
feet above the sca, to
pf the Rhone.
ore sterile than any we
Jed from the peaks of
ents of which serve 38
» Rhone on the other.
husa, One, thoroughly it-
pgion, and reciting that
Augustus.
ginning of the world!
shing petty, defenceless,
tes have extended their
, from the St. Lawrence
The Al-
gate-way, enumerating |
ies the title of prefect @
|, have been the barriet ae
THE ALPS. n43
and defence of Italy against invasion, are just on the eve of giving
up that important distinction. The wealth and the vigor of West-
ern nations have spent two thousand years in reducing that barrier.
King Pepin secured from Pope Stephen III. the honorable title of
“ Eldest Son of the Church” by leading an army over it for his relief.
Louis XIV. improved the pass by sending a French army across it
for less spiritual motives.
Napoleon I. constructed tie military
road used since his time. What the spirit of conquest imperfectly
executed is now to be completed by commercial enterprise, which,
taking advantage of modern improvements, has projected the exca-
vation and construction of a tunnel, with railroad-track, twelve
miles through the base of the mountain. This enterprise, suffi-
ciently bold to mark the advance of civilization for many centu-
ries, has but: two equals, both effected simultaneously with it, the
Pacific Railroad and the Suez Canal. We think it fortunate that
we have enjoyed the passage over the mountain instead of coming
through the tunnel, which is to be opened in two weeks.
At the frontier station we encountered our first experience of a
state of war. A French officer demanded our passports, and viséd
them with care. This incident recalled a suggestion, made to the
Emperor Napoleon in 1859, that nothing would impress the people
of the United States so favorably as an abolition of the passport
system, to whick he answered, giving the usual reasons for that
form of political espionage. When, three years later, the United
States fell into civil war, and established rigorous passport regula-
tions, which continued even after its close, M. Berthémy, the
French minister at Washington, expostulated against a system
which France had then given up. Now, we have left the United
States, with the passport system abolished, only to find it restored
in France and Germany.
We entered Switzerland by the valley of the Rhone, and, fol-
lowing its winding and highly-cultivated banks, we reached Geneva
| this evening.
As the cars stopped, the familiar expression was heurd, in plain
English, “‘ There is the governor;” and in a very few moments we
were conducted by the zealous and esteemed consul, Mr. Upton,
744. EUROPE.
a Virginia loyalist, to delightful apartments in the Metropolitan
Hotel, on the shore of lovely Lake Leman.
August 23d.—We scem here to have come upon the verge of
home. London papers only one day old, New York telegrams
only six hours old. The hotels are full of Americans.
What is it that makes Americans so much frequent, haunt, and
linger in Switzerland? Is it not for the same reason that people
frequent, haunt, and linger about a looking-glass, especially if it be
a convex one that softens their hard features, by presenting them
in miniature? What is Switzerland, with its mountains, glacicrs,
forests, cliffs, lakes, cataracts, and rivers—what is it as a political
state, with its twenty-five cantons and half cantons, its Icderal
Council and Administration, its cantonal legislatures, universal
suffrage, and eligibility to office, its assignment of war, peace, and
foreign relations to the Federal Government, and its allotment of the
protection of life, liberty, and property to local legislatures and
tribunals, its universal education, voluntary if the people will, com-
pulsory if they will not, its practical reli,zious toleration—but vast
North Amcrica compressed within an area scarcely two hundred
and fifty miles square—the United States in miniature ?
Berne, August 25ti.—The United States minister, Mr. Rublee, |
like most ministers at this season, is travelling. His sccretary,
Captain Aschmann, a Swiss volunteer in the United States Army,
who lost a leg at the battle of Fair Oaks, met us at the railroad-
station, and informed us that the President pro tem. of the Federal
Council, in the absence of the chicf, would call upon Mr. Seward
immediately on his arrival at the hotel. The republican character
of the Government could have no better illustration than the ap-
pearance of that gentleman, Mr. Welti, and his tender of the hospi-
talities of the capital. There was neither coach, nor equipage, nor
guard, nor banner, nor sword, nor mace, nor uniform. Mr. Wilti
came, introduced only by Captain Aschmann. He was dressed in
a suit of plain gray clothes, such as a citizen might wear in a rural
town of the United States. Long connected, however, with the
COTZLYA] 30 ALISUZAINN
ARVUES
. the Metropolitan
, upon the verge of
ew York telegrams
ericans.
frequent, haunt, and
e reason that people
ss, especially if it be
, by presenting them
5 mountains, glaciers,
at ig it as a political
’ cantons, its Federal
legislatures, universal
ent of war, peace, and
and its allotment of the
local legislatures and
if the people will, com:
us toleration—but vast
scarcely two hundred
miniature ¢
s minister, Mr. Rublee,
relling. His secretary,
o United States Army,
met us at the railroad
0 tem. of the Federal
call upon Mr. Seward
Ihe republican character
llustration than the ap
his tender of the hosp
oach, nor equipage, Not
oy uniform. Mr. Walt
n. He was dressed in
n might wear in a rural
ted, however, with the
SWITZERLAND.
745
Government, having in his time more than once presided in the
Council of State of which he is now a member, he is well informed,
and his conversation was as instructive as it was interesting. He
expressed a high personal satisfaction in his recollection of the fact
that, in the treaty for the settlement of the San Juan question
(nade between the United States and Great Britain during the
administration of Mr. Johnson, but which failed of ratification by
the Senate, together with the Alabama Claims Treaty, of the same
period), he, being President of the Swiss Council, had been named
as umpire. He explained to Mr. Seward, well and ably, the finan-
cial condition of this little republic, and the entire contentment of
its people with their republican institutions. Without an emperor,
without a king, without a duke or count, without a pope, arch-
bishop, bishop or prelate, with only a Council of Ministers chosen
by the Legislature annually from the Council of State, with only
an organized voluntary militia, in lieu of a standing army, Swit-
zerland has no foreign wars, no controversies, no domestic disturb-
ance, and life, liberty, and property, are as safe in the darkest, re-
motest mountain-glen, as they are in any city under the protection
of the best police in the world.
Mr. Seward inquired for Mr. Staempfli, late President of the
Federal Council, and long the leading statesman of the republic.
He has retired from the administration to assume the management
of a bank, an illustration how the character of Gallatin was formed,
and how it happened that Necker was called to restore the depleted
treasury of Trance.
The present Federal Constitution of Switzerland is framed quite
closely on the United States model ; the Legislature is composed of
two Houses—the Council of State consisting of two representatives
from each canton; the other House consisting of representatives
apportioned according to the pepulation.
Mr. Welti says that there is even in Switzerland a class of poli-
tical rciormers, agitators, radicals, who demand the abolition of the
Council of State, so that there shall be only one legislative body.
He is opposed to this change.
Mr. Seward hoped that it would not be made. THe said that, in
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the beginning of our republic, there was a division on the subject
of the legislature in the United States. Hamilton, with Washing-
ton, gave a decided preference to two Houses. Dr, Franklin, influ-
enced by sympathy with the French reformers, advocated a single
one. Hamilton’s proposition prevailed in the Federal Government
and in all the States except Pennsylvania, where Franklin’s influ-
ence secured a single legislative body. But even that was soon
afterward changed. France, whenever she has been republican,
has adhered to a single legislative chamber. Mexico has followed
the example of France. It is a singular fact that the republican
system has failed, or met with only partial success, wherever only
one legislative body is established, and it has not failed anywhere
else.
Mr. Welti inquired of Mr. Seward whether the United States
would aid Switzerland in claiming the rights of a maritime power
on the high-seas.
Mr. Seward thought that, in the absence of a seaport, other na-
tions were not likely to make such a concession to Switzerland, but
he expressed his belief that as Switzerland, by reason of its repub-
lican institutions, has become an asylum and refuge for all political
exiles, the free states of the world ought to agree to guarantee to
Switzerland safety against aggression or threats of arbitrary pow-
ers. Will Switzerland remain a republic? Yes, it is to be ex-
pected as confidently as it is to be earnestly hoped. Her safety
finds a guarantee in the zeal, loyalty, and patriotism of her people,
not less than in the decline of the despotic principle in the once-
ageressive nations by whom she is surrounded. Even Austria is
more likely to become republican than Switzerland is to relapse
from that system.
And now the president has retired, the capital has been ex-
plored, the great town-clock of the cathedral, eleven hundred years
old, has struck the hour of twelve, with the pomp and parade of a
royal review; we have fed the bears of Berne, given a letter of
thanks to the veteran and wounded Swiss attaché, and we are en-
tering the cars which are to convey us through Ja belle France, to
her mourning and disconsolate capital.
sion on the subject
ton, with Washing:
Dr. Franklin, influ-
, advocated a single
Mederal Government
ere Franklin’s influ-
even that was soon
has been republican,
Mexico has followed
. that the republican
iecess, Wherever only
not failed anywhere
er the United States
of a maritime power
of a seaport, other na-
on to Switzerland, but
y reason of its repub-
refuge for all political
agree to guarantee to
‘eats of arbitrary pow-
Yes, it is to be ex
y hoped. Her safety
triotism of her people,
principle in the once-
ed. Even Austria is
itzerland is to relapse
capital has been es
, eleven hundred years
pomp and parade of ,
yne, given a letter of
ttaché, and we are en
bugh la belle France, to
PARIS, m4
Paris, August 26th—We left Berne rapidly behind ws. and,
following the shore of the long and beautiful Lake Neufchatel, left
Switzerland, with its glorious mountains and cascades, its rich
grazing-grounds, and its simple, sparse, and rustic population, and,
coming to the region between the Rhine and the Rhone, entered
Burgundy, admiring the Cote d’Or, with its magnificent vintages
and frequent villages, and reached Dijon at eleven o’clock.
In frontier France, which we had passed on the way through
Chambéry to Geneva, and again on the railway from Berne to
Dijon, we saw only painful manifestations of public and private
sorrow and anxiety. The more rude and simple the peasantry, the
more the men betrayed a consciousness of pressing perplexity, and
every woman was in habiliments of mourning. There was neither
activity, nor curiosity, nor interest of any kind. When the trains,
abated of their magnitude and importance, arrived at an unex-
pected hour at the railroad-stations, there were no crowds, nor
equipages, nor display of any kind in the streets of Paris, and we
seemed especially welcome at Meurice’s Hotel, of which only a few
apartments are occupied, and those by Americans exclusively.
When we left Auburn lust year, a war between France and
Prussia, the causes of which were laid fifty years ago, and which
had been four years in preparation, had just opened. The task of
reorganizing political and ecclesiastical institutions in France had
become inevitable at the close of the last century. The nations of
Europe, taking alarm at the boldness of the innovations, combined
to uphold the ancient Church and state, and to suppress a revolution
which threatened subversion of all existing authority in Europe.
France resisted the intervention with a vigor and a power which,
while it maintained her integrity, had only been acquired by the
sacrifice of accepting the military despotism of Napoleon in place
of the republican institutions she had ardently desired to establish.
Napoleon’s ambition urged him to push beyond the bounds of pos-
sibility the retaliation which France had inaugurated. His throne
and the sway which he had established from the Atlantic to the
Adriatic, from the Mediterranean to the Zuyder-Zee, perished to-
gether in 1814, and a compromise ensued, irksome and hateful to
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748 EUROPE.
both parties. While Austria, Prussia, Italy, and Belgium, had
conceded to France too much for their owr contentment, France
had been cramped within boundaries too small for her ambition.
Fifty years of peace, such as Europe had never enjoyed, invigorated
all the parties. The people of Trance, impatient of tranquillity
and contentment incompatible with the glorious memories of Na-
poleon, of Louis XIV., of Henry IV., and Charlemagne, demanded
of the new empire political activity and demonstration. Napoleon
III. complied, and, by a master-stroke of policy, combined with Great
Britain in giving check at Sevastopol to the ambition of the Czar.
Having thus established an alliance with Great Britain, an ancient
enemy and aiways a powerful rival, Napoleon yielded to the na-
tional ambition by lending that effective assistance to Sardinia
which resulted in expelling Austria, and restoring, after a lapse of
a thousand years, a united and independent Italy. The military
ambition of Trance thus renewed demanded new achievements,
and looked for them across the Rhine. Napoleon, too wise for
such an expedition, sought to compromise by an expedition to
Mexico, which he apprehended could be safely made by reason of
the distance of the field where battie was to be given, the isolation
and feebleness of that state, resulting from universal discontents,
and the demoralization of the United States, the only probable
ally of Mexico, by a civil war promising nothing less than a disso-
lution of the republic. Each of the two expeditions proved a great
mistake. The national union of Italy proved, in the language of
President Thiers, to be “ the mother of German unity.” The inva-
sion of Mexico gratified neither the ambition nor the pride of the
French people, and its hasty abandonment exposed the empire to
contempt at home and insult abroad. Meantime Prussia, availing
herself of the defeat and humiliation which France and Italy had
already inflicted upon Austria, made successful war against that
rival, and, depriving her of German provinces and allies, consoli-
dated all of Western Germany into a broad and majestic empire,
equal, at least in population, resources, energy, and martial spirit,
to France. The French now impetuously demanded war against
Prussia. United Germany saw that the hour for her retaliation
nd Belgium, had
ntentment, France
for her ambition.
yjoyed, invigorated
ent of tranquillity
s memories of Na-
lemagne, demanded
tration. Napoleon
ombined with Great
nbition of the Czar.
Britain, an ancient
yielded to the na-
stance to Sardinia
ring, after a lapse of
Italy. The military
new achievements,
poleon, too wise for
by an expedition to
y made by reason of
e given, the isolation
iniversal discontents,
s, the only probable
ting less than a disso-
litions proved a great
,in the language of
n unity.” The mva-
nor the pride of the
posed the empire to
ime Prussia, availing
‘rance and Italy had
sful war against that
5 and allies, consoli-
and majestic empire,
y, and martial spirit,
emanded war against
iv for her retaliation
FRANCO-GERMAN WAR.
749
had come ; she accepted the gage of battle. When we left home,
Napoleon on the Prussian border was telegraphing to the empress-
regent his first success. Before we embarked at San Francisco we
heard only of ‘'rench repulscs, reverses, and defeats. Then for
nearly four weeks all intelligence was cut off from us. In Japan,
we heard that the emperor had become a prisoner at Sedan, and that
the empress with her son had taken refuge in England. Theace:
forward, as we advanced westward, the Germans were marching «n
Versailles. J*rance could obtain peace only by reorganization with
the German army on her soil, and at the gates of her capital. Then
came the republic, with Gambetta at its head; then a National As-
sembly at Bordeaux. Next the organization of the Communists at
Faris to resist the National Assembly at Bordeaux; then the re-
moval of the National Assembly to Versailles in the presence of
the German invaders, and the election of Thiers as provisional
president ; then the frightful anarchy of the Commune at Paris,
only suppressed by the decimation of its leaders by the French
army, now under the direction of President Thiers, and then a col-
lapse. What that collapse signified, whether a renewal of anarchy,
or an exhaustion of the forces of anarchy, no one knew. Timid
and peace-loving people avoided France and Paris as one might
avoid Vesuvius when its fires had subsided, but the rumbling, in-
ternal commotion still continued. The destinies of France, so far
as they depended upon herself, were in the hands of a popular as-
sembly at Versailles, a body of seven hundred, consisting of dis-
cordant factions, each of whom thought its hour for complete tri-
umph was at hand. These parties had compromised on an admin-
istration which was allowed to preside and mediate for only one
reason—namely, that it assumed the responsibility of relieving the
French nation, as soon as it should be practicable, of the Gerinan
invaders. President Thiers was at the head of the administration,
and Jules Favre Minister of Foreign Affairs.
When we arrived in Paris, this morning, we found that the
30th of this month has been assigned for a debate, in which the
four parties are to decide their mutual contest. The partisans of
the old Ȏgime are expected to strike for the ancient monarchy un-
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der the Count de Chambord. The Orleanists claim the throne for
the Count de Paris. There are rumors and hopes and fears of a
coalition between the two monarchical factions. The republicans
will have neither of these, nor the empire, while the imperialists
think that these divisions will enable them to restore the emperor,
who has been released from his German prison, and is now in
exile in England.
August 27th.--We dined to-day with Lord Lyons, to whom Mr.
Seward is warmly attached by reason of his honorable and upright
conduct as minister of Great Britain to the United States, in the
early years of our civil war.
France is a type, although an exaggeration, of modern political
ideas. Nations will not consent to remain indefinitely under any
dynasty or personal authority. They not only want frequent
changes, but they have found out the secret of making such
changes. In the United States we have fortunately a legal and
orderly means of gratifying this desire for change. Our Consti-
tution allows the people to choose their own governmental head,
but requires them to abide by his authority only four years. Every
four years they can turn him out.
August 28th.—In the Bois de Boulogne, instead of the crowd
of equipages round the cortége of the emperor, under the majestic
trees and near the crystal lakes, we now found only one carriage,
which bore Schung Hao, the Chinese ambassador, who came to
Paris to explain and palliate the Tien-Tsin massacre. He is now
returning home, after having failed to reccive a word of courtesy
or kindness from President Thiers, who is at the same time con-
strained, by the sad condition of France, to make no demonstra-
tion or declaration hostile to China.
August 31st.—Mr. Washburne, the United States minister, re-
mained in Paris during the entire siege, keeping up, as well as he
could, official communication with the Provisional Government,
first at Bordeaux, then at Versailles. He was enjuying a short res-
na
tio
hay
mi;
enj
sup
ocel
tow
not
alm
hors
the
unde
dred
from
breal
m the throne for
sg and fears of a
The republicans
» the imperialists
ore the emperor,
n, and is now in
ons, to whom Mr.
yrable and upright
ited States, in the
yf modern political
efinitely under any
nly want frequent
t of making such
mately a legal and
nge. Our Consti-
rovernmental head,
four years. Every
astead of the crowd
under the majestic
only one carriage,
lador, who came to
ssacre. Le is now
a word of courtesy
he same time con-
ake no demonstra-
States minister, re-
1g up, as well as he
ional Government,
njoying a short res
VERSAILLES.
751
pite of absence at the time of our arrival. He came to town on the
29th, and, after giving us a kind welcome, presented a note from M.
Rémusat, the newly-appointed Minister for Foreign Affairs, inviting
Mr. Seward to Versailles. Yesterday morning, not caring to use
what is called here the “ American Railroad,” we proceeded by car-
riage to Versailles, passing through the Bois de Boulogne. Splen-
did St. Cloud is a blackened ruin, and, as it seemed, countless forts
on either side have been stormed and demolished. Detachments
of the late contending armies are scattered in the villages along
the road—now a battalion or brigade of the French army, now of
the Germans. There seems to be no intercourse between them,
and doubtless each is weary of the other’s presence. Driving
through Passy, where Franklin resided during his mission to
France, a curious reflection came over us: How much of this
strange, eventful career, which France has endured, was due to
the blandishments of our philosophic, persuasive, and skilful en-
voy? Certainly he procured the not unwilling consent of Louis
XVLI., and the spirited concurrence of Marie Antoinette, to the
treaty between France and the United States, which led to our
national independence, and consequently to the French Revolu-
tion, with its awful catastrophe. Could any other than Franklin
have gained that treaty? Doubtful. Had it not been gained,
might not the kingdom of Louis have withstood the tempest ?
Versailles is a magnificent town of thirty thousand people, who
enjoy streets broader than those of Vienna, and dwellings not less
superb than those of Genoa. So lately the headquarters of German
occupation, and now the seat of the provisional government, the old
town assumes a tone of activity. ‘“he government at Versailles is
not fixed, like the other courts we have visited, but is provisional and
almost military. We stopped at the hotel. Grooms would take the
horses ; as for ourselves, we might sit in the small room adjoining
the coneiergerie, or we might walk through the vestawrant and sit
under the shade-trees in front of the house. More than five hun-
dred well-dressed, active gentlemen were being served, in groups of
from two to half a dozen each, with all the ciatter and din of a rapid
breakfast. These were the members of the Provisional Assembly of
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France. Breakfast over, Mr. Seward, with Mr. Washburre, went to
the Department of Foreign Affairs. The minister, M. Rémusat, a
grandson of General Latayette, is an intellectual and accomplished
man, and always a firm, consistent republican. The reception,
though necessarily short, was genial, free, and very friendly. The
Provisional Assembly was to meet at twelve o’clock. The debate
might involve a national crisis. M. Thiers, as provisional chief of
the state, must attend and be deeply engaged during the day. He
would receive Mr. Seward at his house at eight o’clock in the
evening. Thence we hastened to the Assembly, and the way was
opened, by officials of the Government, through an immense crowd
composed of respectable and intelligent people, to the diplomatic
box.
The members, assembling on the floor below, were engaged in
conversational groups. In the diplomatic box were an English lady
and gentleman, whio politely left the comfortable front seat for Mr.
Seward and chose the adjoining ones. The box soon filled up with
persons introduced by their Icgation, as we had been by ours.
Promptly, at the appointed hour, the president, M. Grévy, took
the chair, and called the Assembly to order. There was a numer.
ous array of clerks and reporters. With great rapidity, official
reports of the ministry were presented and referred, of course, to
the respective committees, as in our legislative assemblies; while
the Chamber, like them, presented a scene of confusion which ren-
dered any attention to the order of business by the members im-
possible. At length, the special order of the day was announced,
The question, in effect, was the vital one whether the Assembly,
which had been convened to organize a government, to make a
treaty of peace with Prussia, and which had now accomplished that
object, ought not to resign its powers. A deputy mounted the
tribune and began to read a speech to the Chamber, hushed in
silence just long enough to allow the speaker to indicate his posi-
tion; then followed a wild uproar of voices ; acclamations from the
“right,” the moderate republicans, interrupted by the extremists;
and grumblings, challenges, and defiances, from the conservative
members. The discontented rose in their seats with violent objur-
rashburne, went to
er, M. Rémusat, a
and accomplished
. The reception,
ery friendly. The
‘lock. The debate
provisional chief of
iving the day. He
ght o'clock in the
y, and the way was
an immense crowd
4, to the diplomatic
w, were engaged in
vere an English lady
le front seat for Mr.
x soon filled up with
| been by ours.
lent, M. Grévy, took
There was a numer:
eat rapidity, official
ferred, of course, to
fe assemblies; while
confusion which ren-
by the members im-
day was announced.
ther the Assembly,
ernment, to make a
w accomplished that
eputy mounted the
‘hamber, hushed in
to indicate his posi-
clamations from the
by the extremists ;
pm the conservative
with violent obju-
NATIONAL ASSEMBLY OF FRANCE. 4538
gations and gesticulations; the supporters of the speaker rose,
vociferously applauding him and denouncing the interruption. By
some arrangement which we did not understand, the reoresentatives
of the several political parties alternated in the tribune. ‘rom the
moderate republican who began, to the extreme republican sus-
pected of communism who opposed, the sagacious and loyal Orlean-
ist, the obstinate and impracticable legitimist, to the crafty but
non-subdued imperialist—every speaker was received and his utter-
ances drowned in the same manner; except that the more radical
republicans awakened a general burst of defiance and denunciation
throughout the whole Chamber. The president continually rang
his bell, and in some way or other the debate went on intelligibly
to him and to the House, but utterly incomprehensible to the audi-
ence.
The stormy scene excited our wonder. In our own Congress,
the speaker, rising in his place, utters, in a well-considered and
earefal form, an argument which everybody knows will be found,
the next morning, in the daily press; will be seized upon and read
in every city and district ; and have its proper effect in forming the
national opinion, which, reacting on Congress, will decide the meas-
ure discussed. The House seldom cares to listen, and the mem-
bers are engaged in conversation or correspondence.
This National Assembly of France, on the contrary, seems to
regard the debate as a combat in which the question is to be de-
cided by the House itsclf, at once and according to the balance of
argument in the heat of passion.
What is still more remarkable is,
that all this vehemence, violence, and excitement, is displayed only
by members in their places. We heard Jules Favre, Louis Blane,
Picard, and Gambetta, at the tribune, and their well-constructed
and carefully-guarded specches, read without the least excitement
or gesticulation, would, but for their remarkable brevity, have
seemed dull and monotonous.
At the expiration of two hours, the difficulty of reaching an har-
monious adjustment amid such tumultuous demonstrations excited
an apprehension that the Assembly would break up in disorder, if
not with scones of violence; and that, before long, hostile forces
54 EUROPE.
might be renewing the civil war, hardly yet completely suppressed.
Some of the European diplomates, in the gallery, declared that
France was unequal to her great destiny; that law, order, govern-
ment, and society, can only be preserved through central and abso-
lute power. The violent scene now culminated ; the president using
his last remedy, announced his determination to dissolve the As-
sembly if his appeal to order should be disregarded. This brought
the Chamber to a moment of calm reflection. He then demanded,
from the latest disturber of the debate, a retraction and apology for
having indulged in language of insult and threat unbecoming the
majesty of debate. The speaker, one perhaps of a hundred who
had equally offended, thus brought singly before the House, ex-
plained, regretted, and apologized. Though the House seemed
willing to forgive, the president was not satisfied; he demanded
further apology, and it was given. Te announced that the debate
might now go on, at the peril, however, of the dissolution of the
Assembly if the bounds of decorum should be passed. The more
judicious speakers scemed to have reserved themselves for such a
crisis. After this every speech, while firm, was conciliatory and
full of concern for the public peace, and showed due and deliberate
consideration. The danger was over—the National Assembly
would not dissolve until the Provisional Government should have
more effectually provided for the exigencies of the state.
The atmosphere of the hall was hot to suffocation, but all the
members remained in their seats, and nearly all the audience. We
—&
“4
9
|
.
i)
See wt
left to obtain fresh air, and to improve the three or four hours of
the day which remained in seeing royal Versailles. An hour later,
we were joined by friends whom we had left in the Chamber, who,
meeting us in the magnificent gardens of the palace, informed us
that the debate had closed; that the Chamber had adopted, by a de-
cisive majority, a declaration that their body is itself a constituent
Assembly, with all the powers adequate to the government and re-
urganization of the nation. |
At nine o’clock, Mr. Seward, accompanied by M. Geoffroy, for-
merly chargé @affaires at Washington, proceeded to the palace of
President Thiers, the same which was occupied by the King of
CFE ete
Qt te te he
ti fap
at at
pletely suppressed.
lery, declared that
law, order, govern-
‘h central and abso-
the president using
to dissolve the As-
ded. This brought
fe then demanded,
ion and apology for
sat unbecoming the
of a hundred who
fore the House, ex-
the Ifouse seemed
sfied; he demanded
ced that the debate
e dissolution of the
passed. The more
hemselves for such a
was conciliatory and
d due and deliberate
National Assembly
rnment should have
the state.
ffocation, but all the
| the audience. We
‘ec or four hours of
Iles. An hour later,
the Chamber, who,
palace, informed us
iad adopted, by a de-
5 itself a constituent
government and re-
by M. Geoffroy, for-
Ned to the palace of
ed by the King of
VISIT TO PRESIDENT THIERS.
755
Prussia during his sojourn at Versailles. The guards, ushers, and
servants, numerous enough and elegant enough in costume for an
imnerial residence, were in waiting, and Mr. Seward and M. Geof-
froy were shown up the grand staircase and through the suite of
antechambers only less numerous and magnificent than those of
the Vatican, and a series of gorgeous drawing-rooms in which not
a soul was visible. Passing through these to the farthest one, they
found a lady sitting by an open window. This was Madame
Thiers, the amiable wife of the president. ising, she gave Mr.
Seward her hand, and invited him to sit down. Congratulating
him on his arrival, she entertained the gentlemen for half an hour
with conversation in perfect English. At the opposite side of the
room, her sister was conversing with the only other visitor. Dur-
ing the evening, four or five gentlemen entered the drawing-room,
and were reccived by Madame Thiers. THalf-past ten o’clock came,
and Mr. Seward was about taking his leave, when Madame Thiers
said that M. Thiers had returned utterly exhausted by the day’s
debate, and had thrown himself on a sofa for a few minutes’ sleep,
after which he would join them in the drawing-room. She would
waken him at once. Mr. Seward, well appreciating the president’s
labors during the day, protested that she should not, but Madame
Thiers said she was sure that the president would be grieved and
disappointed. Conducting Mr. Seward across the hall, to an ante-
chamber, she brought him to a low, broad sofa, where the weary
statesman was snatching his few moments of repose. Mr. Seward
begged that he might not be aroused, and insisted on taking his
leave. Madame Thiers remained with the president, and, before
Mr, Seward had reached the distant drawing-room door, overtook
him, with the president, now awakened from his slumbers. Mr.
Seward saluted him with a compliment expressing his high respect,
which M. Thiers received courteously, and reciprocated by many
kind expressions of compliment, and regret that his guest should
have been kept waiting. He then invited Mr. Seward to remain
all night at the palace, and to bring his family next week to remain
at Versailles. Mr. Seward, declining the proffered hospitality with
many thanks, replied that he was to leave Paris next Tuesday, and
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had engagements to dine, which would keep him there on Monday.
“To-morrow, then,” said the president; “come to-morrow.” Mr.
Seward promised to do so, returned with M. Geoffroy to his car-
riage, and arrived at Meurice’s in the early dawn.
September 1st.—The Chamber of Deputies yesterday brought to
a happy solution the political question which had so perplexed and
alarmed France. They declared that the exectitive power should
remain with M. Thiers; that his titl: should be that of President
of the French Republic; that he should hold his placc three years,
and have full power to administer the government, being always
responsible to the people. All Versailles and all Paris are reas-
sured, if not content. .
We dined last evening with President Thicrs, the party consist-
ing of M. Rémusat, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, M. Geoffroy,
and a few of the president’s official friends. President Thiers is a
short, stout man, locking about seventy-five, remarkably erect and
firm. Hoe has a large and regularly-developed head ; his thick hair,
perfectly white and stiff, is cut short and brushed scrupulously off
his forehead and over his temples. His eyes are black, but spar-
kling and genial, his complexion florid, and even youthful. The
heavy folds of his white cravat, and his elegantly-cut, tiglitly-fitting,
closely-buttoned dress-coat make him look as if he had just stepped
out of an old Flemish picture; and, when he speaks, his gentle voice
seems less like the commanding utterance of the ruling statesman
of a great and convulsed uation, than an echo from the past. His
conversation is vivacious, and imbued not so much with a sense of
gratified ambition as of sanguine hope and confidence in the resto-
ration of his country. Explaining to Mr. Seward the reasons which
had led the Chamber of Deputies to their late important but uncx-
pected decision, he said: “ The Chamber of Deputies and myself in
the present crisis are Siamese twins ; we know that, if we are scp-
arated, both must die.” At dinner, he proposed the health of Mr.
Seward, in a pretty speech, in which he declared that he regarded
it as a presage of his success that Mr. Seward should be his guest
on the first day of his presidency of the French Republic.
there on Monday.
to-morrow.” Mr.
eofiroy to his car-
le
esterday brought to
vd so perplexed and
ative power should
e that of President
is place three years,
ament, being always
| all Paris are reas-
vs, the party consist-
Affairs, M. Geoffroy,
President Thiers is a
remarkably erect and
head ; his thick hair,
shed scrupulously off
| are black, but spar-
even youthful. The
ly-cut, tiglitly-fitting,
if he had just stepped
seaks, his gentle voice
the ruling statesman
5 from the past. His
much with a sense of
infidence in the resto-
ard the reasons which
p important but uncx-
eputies and myself in
Lw that, if we are scp-
sed the health of Mr.
,red that he regarded
h should be his guest
th Republic.
DINNER AT PRESIDENT THIERS'S. T57
Mr. Seward replied that, though France had before attempted
the republican experiment, he regarded the present as the first real
establishment of that system of government in France. He. re-
minded M. Thiers that his fortune was peculiar as it was felicitous;
that he was chosen president not at the command, nor under the
influence of a standing army, but only as a civilian and statesman.
He hored that M. Thiers might remain president as long as Wash-
ington, and have a line of successors as long and as virtuous. More
than this 10 statesman ought to expect, or might dare to desire.
The president spoke of the difficulties of the position, and of the
obstinate distraction of opinion in France, so unlike any thing that
is known in the United States.
Mr. Seward said in reply: “ My hopes for France in the present
crisis are founded on two very antagonistic grounds. First, that
the people of France are universally discouraged. I have not heard
one hopeful expression from any man, of any party, in Versailles
or Paris, except yourself. Second, you are sanguine enough to in-
spire the public with confidence. It is fortunate that all parties
excepting the republicans have exhausted the public confidence.
The imperialists, having lost the battle-field, on which the integrity
of France is at stake, have forfeited the right to guide public opin-
ion. The two royalist parties have not regained the vitality lost
years ago. The republican party, altnough it smarts now, as it has
done on so meny previous occasions, unjustly, under the reponsi-
bility of the fraternization with it of the worst and lowest political
elements of Europe, still has command of the field. France will
now, I think, accept the republic, not because she is yet prepared
to love or trust it, but because she has sufficiently tried and proved
the impracticability of the kingdom and the empire.”
Madame Thiers and her sister are highly-accomplished ladies,
with more vivacity than, and quite as practical and energetic as the
most practical of, our countrywomen.
After dinner, there was a general and distinguished reception
of visitors, who had come to congratulate the president. Among
these were the papal nuncio, the Prince de Chigi Albani, Lord
Lyons, Prince Metternich, Mr. Washburne, cardinals, archbishops,
49
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758 EUROPE.
bishops, generals, admirals, deputies from all sides of the Chamber,
and many ladies.
It was suggestive of thought to see this plain civilian, this in-
depender ' man, who virtually had been proscribed by all
parties fo. tuurty years, now, at the united command of the French
nation, called to its head to redeem it from the dangers and dis.
asters into which it had fallen by rejecting his wise, disinterested,
and patriotic advice.
September 4th.—It is a consequence of the extraordinary condi-
tion of France at the present moment that society of all kinds is
broken up at Paris. The timid and prudent citizens, not yet as-
sured of peace, have not returned to the city. The imperial court
is dispersed, the Communists are suppressed, and the dominant
party is with the government at Versailles. At the same time
nothing is considered permament there. It is only a provisional
government at best, and the Chamber is already distracted by the
question of the removal of the government to Paris. This condi-
tion, however, is perhaps not unfavorable to a study of the political
tendencies of the times. We, of course, meet persons of all par-
ties. It has been a pleasure to again see M. Henri Mercier, former
French minister at Washington, and his successor, the Marquis de
Montholon, always cordial and friendly in his good wishes for the
United States. It is a source of much regret that we do not meet
Signor Bertinatti, formerly Italian minister at Washington, always
so true, earnest, and sympathetic. He is now Italian minister at the
Hague, and writes that he has been making preparations to receive
us there. But the time intervening before our embarkation for
home is so short that we shall be unable to visit Holland. An in-
terview of especial interest was that with M. Drouyn de Lhuys,
who was the successor of M. Thouvenel as Minister of Foreign
Affairs at Paris during our civil war, but was replaced later by M.
Lavallette. M. Drouyn de Lhuys is a gentlemen of fortune, now
residing at Paris, unemployed, and the newspapers are disputing
the probabilities of his being called to office by President Thiers.
He is a tall, stout man, not much, if at all, beyond sixty, with a mas-
1s of the Chamber,
in civilian, this in-
proscribed by all
1and of the French
e dangers and dis-
wise, disinterested,
sxtraordinary condi-
ciety of all kinds is
citizens, not yet as-
The imperial court
, and the dominant
At the same time
s only a provisional
dy distracted by the
) Paris. This condi-
study of the political
t persons of all par-
enri Mercier, former
bssor, the Marquis de
good wishes for the
that we do not meet
Washington, always
talian minister at the
reparations to receive
our embarkation for
sit Holland. An in-
.Drouyn de Lhuys,
Minister of Foreign
replaced later by M.
men of fortune, now
papers are disputing
by President Thiers.
ond sixty, with a mas-
DROUYN DE LIIUYS. 759
sive head, an open countenance, a very kindly as well as intellectual
expression, and manners at once courtly, frank and simple iH.
speaks English quite well. The conversation eriaed oh te 18 fu
and wide, its chief one being the relations beboeen rane | ae i
United States past and present. a
] + st "Vy luring t h mt l ] uv > i € > n
DROUYN DE LHUYS.
engaged in the inception of that enterprise, and, indeed, had always
been opposed to it. He is the only statesman, Svapuinig President
Thiers, whom we have met here that seems hopeful of Bibatres H
says tae worst part of the road is passed. France must give : » her
dream of national aggrandizement and military glory cyte os
the sources of all her misfortunes. He thinks elias ie will d ie
and will rise to a higher position than ever. on
Piel ved AO ALISUSZAINN
aur
760 RUROPE,
It has been an especial pleasure to make the personal acquaint-
ance of M. Laboulaye, who is now a prominent republican member
of the National Assembly. He was a warm well-wisher of the
United States during our war, and his “ Paris in America” has
been read with interest throughout the United States. THe seems
depressed about the present state of France.
Acknowledging the cheering encouragement which M. Labou-
laye had given us in our civil conflict, we thought it our turn to in-
spire him with courage about the situation of France. The cases
are not entirely different. In the United States, we wanted to
abolish slavery, and to save the Union. Either motive was enough
of itself to make a party, but it was difficult to create a party that
would accept both as practicable. It is just so now in France,
The French want a republic, and wish to preserve the integrity and
prestige of France, but are unable to see how both can be done by
the same party at the same time. One may be assured, however,
that, each being right and just in itself, both objects will be se-
cured, and the time has come when they must be secured to-
gether.
September 5th.—One of the effects of the acquisition of absolute
power seems to be an isolation, which can only be relieved by the
adoption of unofficial, perhaps obscure persons, as friends, who by
merit or address become favorites—a relation which, although it is
sometimes a useful, is often an unpopular one. Dr. Evans, an
American dentist, was early accepted in that character by Napoleon
soon after the coup @état. Through his long professional service
he received frequent and valuable tokens of the emperor’s regard.
If it had been doubted whether he did not exaggerate the measure
of imperial favor he enjoyed, those doubts were entirely removed
during our civil war, when, on two occasions, Dr. Evans came to
the Department of State at Washington, with confidential messages
and inquiries trom the Emperor of France. While these messages
were received, they were, of course, fully made known to the presi-
dent, and responded to by his authority. At the same time, the
execution of the trust by the doctor was in all respects moderate
personal acquaint-
epublican member
well-wisher of the
in America” has
States. He secms
t which M. Labou-
it it our turn to in-
France. The cases
ates, We wanted to
motive was enough
) ereate a party that
so now in France.
rve the integrity and
both can be done by
be assured, however,
h objects will be se-
must be secured to-
equisition of absolute
ly be relieved by the
$, as friends, who by
| which, although: it 1s
one, Dr. Evans, an
Jnaracter by Napoleon
g professional service
the emperor's regard.
caggerate the measure
vere entirely removell
s, Dr. Evans came to
confidential messages
While these messages
je known to the prest
\t the same time, the
all respects moderate
DR. EVANS.
761
It is due also to the emperor to say that all his
personal messages, of that kind received, were frank, and no expec-
tation raised by them was ever disappointed. Under these circum-
stances, our visit to Paris afforded a pleasant renewal of acquiint-
ance with Dr, Evans, and it was a satisfaction to find that, in the
disasters which overtook the imperial family, there was no loss of
fidelity on the one side nor of confidence on the other. It was in-
teresting to hear Dr. Evans’s account of the empress’s escape from
France, a transaction in which he took an important part.
After the battle of Sedan left Napoleon III. a prisoner of war,
and the empire prostrate, the imperial ministers and members of
the Corps Législatif rushed at once to the empress regent, at the
Tuileries, and told her that she must fly, without an instant’s de-
lay. At seven in the evening, attended by one lady, she left the
palace by a side-door, where they called a common jiacre. They
drove in this up the Champs Elysées, a mile or more, stopped in
the strect, dismissed the vehicle, walked a square or two, took an-
other fiacre and drove to Dr. Evans’s door, and rang the bell. Mrs.
Evans was absent.
and becoming.
The doctor was entertaining some friends at din-
ner, entirely ignorant of the great political transactions of the day.
A servant went to him and whispered to him that a lady, at the
door, said she must see him, and could not be put off. The doctor
returned answer that he was at dinner and could not leave the
table. The empress, not to be repulsed, walked through the open
door into the office. Learning this, the doctor excused himself,
and went to see who the intruder might be: imagine his astonish-
ment and dismay at finding the empress, and hearing her exclaim,
“Doctor, you must save me!”
Few words of explanation were necessary. The Empress Eugé-
nie, like Marie Antoinette, had made good her escape from the
Tuileries alone, but with his aid only could she now escape from
Paris, and find an asylum in a foreign country. Leaving the em-
press and her attendant in a room with closed doors, Dr. Evans, as
soon as possible, dismissed his friends; and, without even informing
his servants of his purpose, went to his stables, ordered his own
carriage, and engaged a friend to go with him. The two ladies
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remained unseen until two o’clock in the morning, when the car-
riage drove to the door. The empress was in the mourning which
the court had worn since the reverses of the French arms. The
black crépe bonnet might excite attention; she laid it aside, and,
in its place, took a simple round hat of Mrs. Evans’s. Then, with
her lady attendant and Dr. Evans, she entered the carriage: the
friend rode on the box. The streets were thronged with excited
crowds, who, however, paid no attention to the unostentatious
equipage of the fugitives. Arrived at the city gate, it was found
in charge of a republican guard, who demanded the names of the
travellers. The doctor gave his own name, address, and profes-
sion; and, remarking that great events were occurring in Paris,
handed the guard a morning paper, and drove on.
Travelling all day, they reached at night a village where Mrs.
Evans was staying, who supplied the empress with apparel more
suitable for a voyage across the Channel. Arriving finally at the
coast, the doctor procured from an Englishman the loan of his
yacht, and they embarked near Trouville, a short distance south of
Havre, at midnight. After a fearful passage of twenty hours, in
a heavy sea, they finally effected their landing on the hospitable
British shore. Dr. Evans’s first duty, on arriving in England, was
to relieve the mother’s anxiety for Louis, the prince imperial, who
so soon after Saarbriick was privately sent from the scene of war
by the emperor. He found his way to the prince, in spite of the
guard, who distrusted the visitor. The prince, on seeing him, at
once exclaimed, “ Where is my mother?” The doctor could
scarcely suppress his emotion when he concluded his narrative by
saying: “I conducted the empress to him, and, when I witnessed
their embrace, and heard their exclamations, ‘ Louis!’ ‘Mamma!’
I felt that my mission, not only for this emergency, but for life,
was accomplished.”
How unable we are to judge of the reality and magnitude of a
danger when it has been safely escaped! Many, perhaps, believe
that the empress might have safely remained at the Tuileries; but
when we remember the violence of the Communists—the murder
of the Archbishop of Paris, and other atrocities during and after
ning, when the car-
he mourning which
French arms. The
e laid it aside, and,
vans’s. Then, with
1d the carriage: the
ronged with excited
the unostentatious
y gate, it was found
ed the names of the
address, and protes-
» oceurring in Paris,
on.
a village where Mrs.
;; with apparel more
Arriving finally at the
vman the loan of his
hort distance south of
e of twenty hours, in
ing on the hospitable
iving in England, was
prince imperial, who
from the scene of war
prince, in spite of the
ice, on seeing him, at
» The doctor could
Juded his narrative by
and, when I witnessed
, ‘Louis!’ ‘ Mamma!’
ergency, but for life,
y and magnitude ot 8
Many, perhaps, believe
at the Tuileries; but
munists—the murder
ities during and after
THE MISFORTUNES OF FRANCE. 763
7)
the siege of the city—there is every reason to be thankful that her
escape saved maddened Paris from a cruel and atrocious crime.
September 5th.—It remains for us only to acknowledge the gen-
erous and elegant hospitalities which were extended to us by our
friend Mr. Washburne, United States minister, and the United
States consul-general Mr. Read, Mr. Appleton, and many other
Americans. It is with sincere pride that we learn that their calm
courage and fortitude during the political crisis at the capital won
for them universal esteem and confidence.
Paris, as we leave it, wears a sad and despairing aspect. All
parties are humiliated alike in the overthrow of a military prestige
that they trace back with pride to Louis XIV., and even to Charle-
magne ; in the payment of indemnities as great as the most rapa-
cious of French armies ever extorted from foreign states; and in
the loss of territories which were at once a resource and an in-
valuable line of defence. Moreover, no party indulges any san-
guine hope of a renewal of the prestige and power that have been
lost. for all this, however, we leave I’rance with stronger hope
than ever in its future. The people of France are generous, per-
haps the most generous in the world. If they have been diverted
from the more prudent path of national development to pursue the
career of military glory, even that is a fault kindred to national
virtue. For seventy years France has been the chief theatre of the
struggles for the establishment of the republic in Europe. If she
has failed hitherto to achieve it, two things are to be considered in
extenuation: First, that only one country in Europe has established
it—namely, Switzerland ; and, second, that Switzerland is embar-
rassed by none of the grave difficulties which surround France. It
was the misfortune of France that the Protestant Reformation
failed there, while it succeeded in the northern parts of the Conti-
nent and in Great Britain. It was alike the misfortune of France
that she was called to accept the republic while as yet the principle
of despotic power was unbroken and unshaken throughout the
Continent. Still further, it was her misfortune that the sway of
the republic has been incompatible with the contest which she has
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necessarily been obliged to hold against a despotic combination.
But all these difficulties are passed at last. The French nation no
longer excites the fears or has motives for provoking the hostility
of other nations. Left at liberty to retrieve her national disasters,
all her energies will be applied to that purpose. The promptness
with which her people meet the financial exigencies of their trying
situation proves that her resources are adequate. On the other
hand, such is the influence of France everywhere in Europe that
every new step which she makes in popular government demoralizes
all the nations who have been her rivals and her enemies. Bis-
marck and his imperial master have manifested the highest sagacity
and ability in humiliating France from her position as the first
Continental power of Europe, and raising Germany to that proud
place. But not only Bismarck and the Kaiser, but also the King
of Italy, and the Emperor of Austria, and the Czar of Russia, and
even the statesmen of England, will probably fir « it a much more
difficult task to hold their respective countries back from the disor-
ganizing ways of republicanism if France shall persevere wisely in
that direction. The bugbear of Europe to-day is communism, as
it is the fear of France. Communism is, nevertheless, in France a
manageable evil. It is the protest of the laborers of France, now
largely educated, against the conscription and military service which
has been a social calamity ever since her great Revolution. The
agitation of communism will not cease either in France or in any
other European country so long as ten millions of the laboring
population of the Continent are withdrawn from productive occupa-
tion to become consumers. On the other hand, the ecclesiastical
institutions and prejudices of Europe are so much broken down
that the republic has no strong obstacle anywhere but the standing
armies. Let these, by whatever means, be replaced by a voluntary
and moderate militia force, and every European state will slide at
once into the republican system as easily, as gracefully, and as
safely, as Switzerland and the United States have already.
espotic combination.
1e French nation no
»voking the hostility
ier national disasters,
se. The promptness
encies of their trying
yuate. On the other
vhere in Europe that
vernment demoralizes
1d her enemies. Bis-
d the highest sagacity
- position as the first
rermany to that proud
er, but also the King
ne Czar of Russia, and
ly fir . it a much more
13 back from the disor-
all persevere wisely in
day is communism, as
vertheless, in France a
borers of France, now
military service which
eat Revolution. The
r in France or in any
illions of the laboring
om productive occupa-
and, the ecclesiastical
o much broken down
shere but the standing
placed by a voluntary
ean state will slide at
as gracefully, and as
have already.
CHAPTER V.
GERMANY, ENGLAND, AND HOME.
Belgium.—Berlin.—Mr. Bancroft.—Humboldt.—The German Empire.—Its Rise and
Grandeur.—Its Policy.--Hamburg.—A Free City—A Handsome City—On the
Thames.—Activity of its Commerce.—Greatness of London.—Government Machinery
in Great Britain—Its Slow Working.—Rural Beauty of England.—On Board the
Java.—Her Passengers.—-Montrose-on-Hudson.—Return to Auburn. —Mr, Seward’s
Speech to his Neighbors.
Cologne, September 6th.—Out of France
on the Rhine, all in twelve hours !
Belgium realizes to the traveller its well-known character for
density of population, and active, inventive industry. It is wonder-
ful how arts, and even freedom, flourish within this little state,
which for two thousand years has almost continually been the battle-
ground of the ambitions of the great European nations. If we re-
member rightly, there are few Belgian immigrants in America, As
we passed through to Liege and its rural districts, so full of busy
activity, contentment, and even gayety, we wondered that there
should be any.
Berlin, September 8th.—We arrived here last evening. We
have seen of Germany enough to show that its climate is neither so
venial, nor its soil so fertile, nor its resources of forest and mines
so rich as those of Southern Alaska; nevertheless, it is rich and
prosperous through the perseverance of its people.
It is a political and social vacation at Berlin. The emperor-
king and the empress, the princes and Bismarck, are absent. Baron
across Belgium—and
4
b
“4
©
‘
Seee wor
Sr eS 4 eae SS Se
a
= =
ICV met
ee a
766 EUROPE.
Gerolt, so lone the respected and beloved Prussian and German
minister at Washington, is now at Berlin, and it is a pleasure to
meet him here.
Mr. Bancroft met us at the station, and has given us a delight-
ful and quiet home at the legation, on the favorite avenue, ‘ Unter
den Linden.” He enjoys the respect and consideration here which
he so eminently deserves. Mr. Bancroft is a distinguished excep-
tion to the rule that great scholars fail of being practical statesmen,
As might be expected, the air of Berlin is as triumphant as that
of Paris is sad and despondent. We noticed in Paris that the alle-
gorical statue of Strasbourg, in the Place de la Concorde, was cov-
ered with mourning weeds. So we must not omit to mention that
an allegorical group has been erected here, representing Germany
receiving with open arms her returning daughters, Alsace and Lor.
raine.
The streets of Berlin wear the aspect of a newly-built or modern
city. While it has none as fine as Fifth Avenue, there is a uniform
solidity and elegance which we have not yet attained in the United
States. In activity, industry, and trade, Berlin contrasts strongly
with Paris in its present condition, as well as with Naples and
Florence. The parks are well shaded and extensive, but less im-
posing than those of Vienna, and it would be difficult to decide be-
tween the two cities in regard to the general appearance of activity
and vivacity.
In one of the streets of Mexico there is this inscription on a
marble tablet: “In this house Humboldt dwelt.” We are told of a
similar inscription on the house he lived in here. We have scarcely
accustomed ourselves to think of society in Berlin without the ele-
vating and genial presence of the greatest philosopher of our age.
We have had the honor of meeting M. Thile, the acting Min-
ister of Foreign Affairs, Dr. Ranke, the venerable historian, and
several of the celebrated savants for whom Berlin is so justly dis-
tinguished.
In the history of civilization there has been nothing more won-
derful than the development of the German Empire. Brandenburg,
the feeblest of perhaps forty inconsiderable states, a state without
uussian and German
1 it is a pleasure to
3 given us a delight-
rite avenue, “ Unter
ideration here which
distinguished excep-
x practical statesmen.
as triumphant as that
in Paris that the alle-
la Concorde, was Cov-
omit to mention that
epresenting Germany
nters, Alsace and Lor-
newly-built or modern
1ue, there is 2 uniform
attained in the United
lin contrasts strongly
as with Naples and
bxtensive, but less im-
difficult to decide be-
appearance of activity
this inscription on 4
lt.’ We are told ofa
re. We have scarcely
3erlin without the ele-
jlosopher of our age.
hile, the acting Min-
erable historian, and
Berlin is so justly dis-
n nothing more won-
mpire. Brandenburg,
states, a state without
PRUSSIA. “67
numbers, military force, arts, or science, two hundred years ago had
the courage to challenge a place among the countrics of Europe. By
the adoption of a military system, at that time essential to every
power, but more rigorous than any other, ancient or modern, by the
skilful development of resources, and by the practice of parsimony
so great as to provoke ridicule, by constancy in resisting aggression,
and boldness in taking advantage of opportunity, this little king-
dom of Brandenburg, in the forty-six years of the reign of Frederick
the Great, doubled its territory and population, and rose to the
attitude of one of the great Continental powers. Harassed, sub-
jugated, and ravaged in the Napoleonic wars, Prussia only applied
herself all the more devotedly and energetically to the increase of
her strength and resources. With a sagacity which has had no
prototype, she originated a new philosophy, an original literature,
and schools of rausic and criticism. With this intellectua: progress
Prussia has had the wisdom to combine moral and social culture,
equality of rights, personal freedom, and rigid justice of administra-
tion, which have won for her the grateful sympathy and affection
of other German states. At least since the time of Frederick,
Prussia has practised an eminently wise and just moderation.
Content with an attitude always of self-defence, and to wait for
provocation, she reserved her strength, until the intolerable preten-
sions of Austria required a contest with that power, which resulted
in her bringing under her protecting flag, with their consent, the
North-German states around her, while she neutralized the South-
German states, formerly dependencies of her rival. Nothing in
politics is more calmly sublime than the deportment of Prussia
when that recent great aggrandizement excited the jeai us alarm
of France. France secretly proposed to favor the extension ef
North-German jurisdiction over the South-German states on condi-
tion that Prussia would consent that France should absorb Bel-
gium. Prussia refused. France then sought offence in the offer of
the Spanish Cortes of the throne of that country to a prince of the
house of Hohenzollern. The Prussian Government disavowed, and,
when that failed, the prince declined, but the empire of France
would have an insult when the original cause of complaint had
"68 EUROPE.
been removed. So the emperor instructed his minister, who of-
fended the dignity of the Prussian sovercign, and was dismissed
for it. Then France declared war. Prussia came into a war, the
only one, perhaps, of modern times in which the advantages, moral
and physical, were combined on the same side—a just cause, a de-
fensive position, convenient preparation, and the strongest military
power. There is one circumstance in this great event peculiarly
gratifying to the United States, and which cannot but prove useful
to the world. It seems as if the process of renaissance in any
nation begets a sympathy and friendship for the American Repub-
lic. We do not know the secret of the great Frederick’s sympathy
with the United States, in their Revolution. He was a capricious
man, and had a proclivity for French philosophy and politics, and
a dislike for England. Whatever may have been the cause, he
was an admirer of our institutions, and in 1786 made with us a
treaty, based on an acknowledgment of the highest rights of man.
Through all her own vicissitudes and ours, Prussia has adhered to
the policy and sentiments of Frederick, in regard to the United
States. Prussia was the first of the European powers to join us in
a policy of justice and liberality toward Mexico. Prussia was the
first of the European states to acknowledge the American principle
of freedom of naturalization and denationalization. With Russia
she has been a faithful friend, and, like Switzerland, she has en-
grafted on her own political system the American principle of gov-
ernment by confederation of states. It is a proud thing to see thai
system established by the most powerful of the states on the Euro-
pean Continent. It promises nothing less, though perhaps in a
distant future, than the abolition of military despotism for main-
taining the balance of power. Germany, if her magnanimity shall
U2IAIN|
4
:
“1 10
So }
2 as 4b bette oe
Terres
be equal to her prosperity, will be content hereafter to promote
the welfare of mankind, through the arts of peace, rather than to
errs
Gt Satie st
seck greater dominion by war and violence.
Hamburg, September 12th.—Crossing the river Spree, passing
pretty Charlottenburg, and reaching the Havel, we leave behind
us the suburban cultivation and taste of Berlin, and enter on a
3 minister, who of:
and was dismissed
ame into a war, the .
e advantages, moral
—a just cause, a de-
1e strongest military
eat event peculiarly
not but prove useful
> renaissance in any
he American Repub-
Frederick’s sympathy
Te was a capricious
phy and politics, and
+ been the cause, he
786 made with us a
ighest rights of man.
russia has adhered to
regard to the United
powers to join us in
ico. Prussia was the
he American principle
gation. With Russia
itzerland, she has en-
ican principle of gov-
roud thing to see that
xe states on the Euro-
though perhaps in a
despotism for main-
er magnanimity shall
hereafter to promote
peace, rather than to
river Spree, passing
rel, we leave behind
ylin, and enter ona
HAMBURG.
769
plain where sand and marsh intermingle. Only Germans could
utilize a soil so worthless, but they use it in every way. Tor cen-
turies the writing-world has relied upon these plains for their
goose-quills. Of national frontiers, there have been more than
enough on this plain. These boundaries have now become merely
departmental divisions of the German Empire. We came to the
Elbe at Wittenberg, and followed its banks to Hamburg.
You realize, on the moment of arrival at Hamburg, that you
are in a free city. No demand of passports, and no custom-house
inspection of luggage, no espionage, no intrusive curiosity. Ham-
burg is not so majestic as Vienna, so poetic as Venice, so classic as
Florence, nor so elegant as Paris, and yet it is a rich and beautiful
city, pleasant to look upon. With exquisite art, they have gath-
ered the rapid little Alster, no larger than the east branch of the
Potomac at Bladensburg, into pretty crystal lakes, lending a Vene-
etian charm to the beautiful palaces and villas of the merchant-
princes which crown the shores. And Hamburg has one beauty
which even Venice has not—the beauty of broad and ornamented
lawns and gardens. But the Germans are a practical people, and
the beauty of Hamburg is its smallest boast. A commercial city,
the oldest of Northern Europe, it is the only one that has never
known a decline of prestige. The early commerce of the Elbe
was lost, like that of the Mediterranean ports, as 2 consequence of
the discoveries of Columbus and Vasco de Gama. But it has been
effectually replaced by a richer and more comprehensive one. The
flags of all nations are here, and vessels from all ports crowd the
channel, HWamburg’s most profitable commerce is that which is at
the same time most beneficial to the United States. It is the chief
port of emigration. Our glimpses of Germany, though they have
been hasty, have modified our opinion on the character of this emi-
eration. The German cmigrants go, not so much to escape from
want, as from a spirit of emulation and improvement.
Here, under the apprehension of inclement’ weather on land,
and winter-storms at sea, we reluctantly relinquish our projected
journey through Denmark and Sweden to Russia. Our explora-
tion of four continents ends to-day. We embark on the steamer
ae
HAMBU Rc
.
®
‘
ape ~
bh
te
—
aE
Pane
oPtF
Fai
AGVEEET EF
tae ane
pascniat
m=!
§
i
2)
a
<
z
ON THE THAMES. 71
Berlin. Her cabins are filled with merchants and their families
who two days hence will be undistinguishable in the streets of
London, and her decks are crowded with sheep which will be
served up to them as real “ Southdown mutton.”
On the Thames, September 14th.—The broad estuary contracts
so rapidly as to bring into view the coast outline. Before reach-
ing Gravesend, the activity of the shipping impresses you with the
conviction that you are approaching the greatest commercial mart
of the world. Steamers, pouring out clouds of black smoke, are
crossing in what seems a maze. Sailing-vessels, with a fair wind,
are passing upward, and vessels with sails furled are towed by tugs
down the river. The undulating shores appear, on which trees,
orchards, gardens, and lawns, relieve the brown of autumn. On
our left is the entrance of the Medway, on our right the harbors
of Lea and Thames Haven. Steam seems to be a despot on land
as well as on the water. Stationary engines at docks, wharves,
manufactories, locomotive-engines hurrying to and from London,
meet your eyes everywhere. We passed the Great “astern, at an-
chor, in dignified retirement. At the beginning of our war it was
suggested to buy this noble vessel. It was a conclusive objection
that, although she could carry ten thousand troops, she could not
reach a Isuding-place in the insurgent States. Equally impracti-
cable for commerce, she proved her adaptation to only one of the
enterprises of the day, but that perhaps the noblest of them all—
the laying of ocean telegraphic cables.
Entering the great marine gate-way of England, every thing
seems in strong and cheerful contrast to the countries where we
have been. No Indian wigwam, no heathen temple, no mosque,
no Catholic or Greek cathedral, no fortification, no grotesque cos-
tumes, no half-clad or naked savages, Arabs, serfs, fellahs, or coolies
—only on shore a universal manufacture; and on the water merchant-
vessels, bearing the world’s exchanges, and ships-of-war to defend
and protect them—no despotic nor imperial nor feudal power—the
law supreme and equal—London shows, at the first glance, that it
is the great heart of human activity. Every enterprise of war or
772 EUROPE.
peace, every campaign, canal, and railroad, on either continent of
this great globe, derives from London the credit which is its life.
The river contracts. Gravesend, Woolwich, White Bait Tav-
ern, the Dreadnaught, Nelson’s flag ship at Trafalgar, all crowd
fast upon us.
And now we give up our keys to the polite custom-house
officer, who is content with the pretence of search. And now we
leave the steamer, and study, as we drive on, the scenes of low Lon-
don life, not the illustrations of Cruikshank, but the actual charac-
ters portrayed by “Boz.” Here is Captain Cuttle, and there is the
little wooden midshipman at the door of Solomon Gill’s shop. Here
is Quilp’s figure-head, and here is Susan Nipper, and even little
Nell. We go on through the city, we turn up Bishopsgate Strect,
and pass the Tower and St. Paui’s, and so on through crowded
Cheapside, Charing Cross, and Covent Garden, and St. James’s,
until we stop at last at Fenton’s Hotel. Who could nave expected
to see all London before reaching his lodgings ?
London, September 15th.—As for writing observations upon
London and England so familiarly known by tradition, history,
poetry, romance, and the drama, to say nothing of travellers’ books
—as for doing this in the short space of seven days, we are not
going to try.
Mr. Seward spent the morning in Downing Street with Mr.
Hammond, the experienced Under Secretary of State for Foreign
Affairs, and the no less accomplished Mr. Merivale, Under Secretary
for India. With the former he discussed the policy of the Western
nations in regard to China, and seemed to please the latter by the
testimony he bore to the prudent, wise, and beneficent administra-
tion of Earl Mayo, Lord Napier, and Sir William Muir.
The various bureaux seem to show that the machinery of ad-
ministration in Great Britam has been contrived to secure caution
and deliberation at the expense of time; while in the United States
the more simple constitution of the departments gives greater
promptness and dispatch, at vase risk, perhaps, of precipitancy. We
no longer wonder at the blunder of the British Government in fail:
(2 oe — a ae
ican
and
him
trary
that
f ing s
sor ft
sther continent of
which is its life.
White Bait Tav-
rafalgar, all crowd
solite custom-house
eh. And now we
e scenes of low Lon-
it the actual charac-
ttle, and there is the
on Gill’s shop. Here
yper, and even little
, Bishopsgate Street,
on through crowded
jen, and St. James's, WR
could nave expected
33
g observations upon
bv tradition, history,
ng of travellers’ books
ven days, we are not
ning Street with Mr.
of State for Foreign
ivale, Under Secretary
policy of the Western
ease the latter by the
beneficent administra-
jam Muir.
the machinery of af
syed to secure caution
e in the United States
eater
tments gives gt
of precipitancy. We
h Government In fail:
ENGLISH RURAL LIFE, %73
ing to stop the Alabama, when we sce that no secretary could
move in that question until he had the studied opinion of the “law
advisers of the crown.” The Government of the United States has
only one legal adviser, the Attorney-General, who sits in the Cab-
inet, and advises, like other heads of departments, without having
questions specially referred to him, except on extraordinary occa-
sions.
The Council for India, the Council for the Colonies, the Board
of Trade, and the other administrative councils, are cach of them
a numerous body, and examine and pronounce upon every ques-
tion, before the presiding minister takes action. In this complex
machinery the British Government does not differ from all the
other governments of Europe. ILence the tedious and vexatious
delays which have brought diplomazy under popular suspicion and
reproach.
It is only in parts of France, and in England, and the United
States, that rural life has an aspect of contentment and happiness.
While the dwellings of the rich landholders here immeasurably sur-
pass, in magnificence as well as numbers, the most ambitious rural
residences in the United States, the villages and cottages of the
peasantry, on the other hand, hold no comparison with the cheerful
rural towns and comfortable dwellings of the American farmers.
But the minute subdivision and high cultivation of the fields, to-
gether with the general elegance of plantations and gardens, give
to the landscape of England an air of repose, comfort, health, and
beauty, which, as yet, has not been approached among us. To these
attractions the Listorical associations, as well as those of poetry and
romance, impart an additional charm.
We think the impression that London makes upon an Amer-
ican, who sees more of political, commercial, and social activity
and energy at home, is one of dulness and monotony, leading
him to wish to escape from it as soon as possible. On the con-
trary, when he comes to the rural scenes of England, he wishes
that he might remaia there always. Such, at least, were the pass-
j ing sentiments swalenec in us by our short excursion from Wind-
sor through Eton to Stoke Poges.
There is a softness of the
50
of
a
a
74 EUROPE.
atmosphere which seems not only to harmonize but to blend with
the dark-green shade of the gardens and lawns, and
“All the air a solemn stillness holds.”
We close our visit in London with a deep conviction that Eng.
lish and American society are approximating to cach other—that in
the United States we are assuming more of the constancy and con-
sistency of the English habit ; while in England there is a manifest
tendency to adopt the active and vivacious ways of American life,
There are sufficient grounds to explain the jealousies which, rising
into antipathies, have until just now alienated the two nations. It
was unwise to expect that the British nation would forgive the
Revolutionary separation, and would honor her new and rival kin-
dred state, so long as the stability and perpetuity of the Federal
Union were decmed experimental. They were necessarily deemed
experimental, all over the world as well as in the United States, so
long as the institution of slavery threatened dissolution. So far
from its having been a matter of just surprise that the Southern
cause received so much of sympathy and encouragement in the
aristocratic circles of England, it is rather to be wondered at that it
received no more, since it promised nothing less than our inferiority,
not only in present prestige but in destiny, to the empire from
which we had so boldly separated. Since slavery has ceased to cx-
ist throughvue the United States, there can be no new cause of
alienation. The two nations must be rivals, not in arms, for neither
has need for conquest; but in science, arts, literature, agriculture,
commerce, and navigation, and in the invention which leads to suc-
cess in all things. Rivalry of this sort is magnanimous rather than
inimical. Moreover, each nation is inclined, by peculiar character
and habits, to enterprise and exertion, in different fields from those
of the other.
On board the Steamer Java, Queenstown, September 24th.—We
are taking our last look on foreign lands, exactly a year from the
day when we had our first glimpse of them as we approached the
coast of mountain-crowned Japan. How suggestive is barbarous
s but to blend with
and
conviction that Eng-
each other—that in
e constancy and con-
d there is a manifest
ays of American life.
ilousies which, rising
‘the two nations. It
on would forgive the
sy new and rival kin-
etuity of the Federal
re necessarily deemed
the United States, so
d dissolution. So far
‘ise that the Southern
encouragement in the
be wondered at that it
ss than our inferiority,
y, to the empire from
very has ceased to ex:
be no new cause of
ot in arms, for neither
literature, agriculture,
‘on which leads to suc-
animous rather than
| by peculiar character
eyont fields from those
September 94th.—We
kactly a year from the
as we approached the
hggestive 18 barbarous
STEAMER PASSENGERS. 75
Japan, rising buoyantly to grasp civilization, while Ireland, a civil-
ized land, endures the agony of a broken heart! But Ireland is
beautiful in her sadness, and the sympathies of mankind assure her
of a future.
Here, on the Java, we have a large number of Americans
going home after short visits of business or pleasure in Europe.
All classes are represented—merchants, bankers, lawyers, doctors,
engineers, professors, clergymen, college-students, students of mu-
sic and the fine arts—more inquisitive, more active, more commu-
nicative, and less economical in dress and habits than the English.
They are social and polite; they talk incessantly, and mostly of
“business ” and American politics, of emigration, education, inter-
oceanic railroads, intercontinental telegraphs, civilization, and prog-
ress generally. They assert their opinions confidently, and ask,
“Why not?” The gentlemen drink champagne as freely as if it
were a native beverag:,, and smoke large “ Habanas,” where Euro-
peans allow themselves a pipe or a cigarette. The ladies, in unex-
ceptionable toilets and full of vivacity, sustain their share in con-
versation upon all topics, from the fashions and the opera at Paris to
the glaciers of the Alps, the arts of Italy, the literature of Germany,
and the politics and religion of all nations, showing no special re-
gard for the theories and opinions of their husbands—indecd, with-
out special inquiry, one would hardly know which ot the ladies are
married, and to which of the gentlemen. The children are finished
little people, who have been abroad to study the Evropean lan-
guages, and have learned them all, with a great deal more. The
girls read French novels and the latest English poems, and the boys
play at cards and chess.
It is only when we are leaving Europe that we realize the im-
mense increase of the forcign travel, intercourse, and trade, of the
United States. Steamers plying between European and American
ports are crossing the Atlantic every day in the year. The Cunard
line, only one of many, employs twenty steamers in this great
trade. The stormy Atlantic navigation has become so common
and so certain as to have lost all its terrors. It is a sad reflection
that this great navigation is conducted chiefly in forcign instead of
1 S20 ALISUZAINA
tes
CFC rns Pos,
SP & Sete i
oo
£5”
a
thefts
at ada a
776 MONTROSE-ON-HUDSON
American bottoms. But the loss of our heretofore prominent share
a loss which will be
in it is one of the penalties of our civil war
ell the sooner retrieved by the liquidation of the national debt and
the restoration of the national currency. Meantime, we may be
content with the employment of the energies of our people in
developing resources greater than any other nation possesses. Once
of the Cunard proprictors says that the profits of the line are not
derived exclusively or mainly from cabin-passengers, or even from
freights, but from the transportation of emigrants. We discovered
a similar fact in regard to the trade cf the Pacific. If the annual
accession of three hundred thousand immigrants, who generally
are of the humbler classes of Europe, has already produced a
beneficent modification of society and government, then it cannot
be doubted that this perpetual and always increasing intercourse
between America and Europe must exert a strong and healthful in-
fluence upon European nations. Doubtless the United States send
many frivolous and idle pleasure-seckers abroad, and at the cost of
much wealth, but they send at the same time vastly more of enter
prising, inventive, and thoughtful inquirers and observers; and
that cannot be a losing intercourse for us which brings us forcign
labor, industry, invention, and skill, in compensation for the annual
surplus of our material productions.
Montrose-on-TTudson, October 2d.—A. dense fog compelled us
to go to anchor just below Quarantine at three o’clock this morn-
ing. In apprising our friends of our coming, we had request: §
ed that they would mect us in the harbor of New York. The
Java had anticipated the expected day of arrival by twenty four
hours, so all things favored our desire to avoid the fatigue and
delay of Janding in the city. On a signal, our friends met us with
a steam-yacht at our anchorage. The custom-house inspector
cleared our luggage promptly; the Quarantine officer made no
hesitation in giving us certificates of health; the passengers of the
Java gave us three cheers on our disembarking.
We touched at the Battery, and at Jersey City, to take on board
other friends waiting there, and at two o’clock the Henry Smith@
ore prominent share
1 loss which will be
ie national debt and
eantime, we may be
e3 of our people in
ition possesses. One
s of the line are not
engers, or cycn from
We discovered
ants.
aeific. If the annual
srants, who generally
> ‘
5s already produced a
nment, then it cannot
increasing intercourse
trong and healthful in-
the United States send
oad, and at the cost of
¢ vastly more of enter
-s and observers 5 and
yhich brings us foreign
ensation for the annual
tense fog compelled us
hree o'clock this morn: |
ning, we had request
fy of New York, The
arrival by twenty four
avoid the fatigue and
our friends met us with
ustom-house inspector
ntine officer mace 20
» the passengers of the
king.
y City, to take on boat
Jock the Henry Sith
RETURN HOME. Tet
landed us at Verplanck’s Point, near the house of Frederick W.
Seward, to the surprise of the citizens whose obscure port had never
before witnessed a direct arrival from Europe, since the day when
Hendrick Hudgon first landed there from the Half Moon.
Auburn, October 9th.—Commodore Vanderbilt’s private car, the
finest and most comfortable conveyance we have found in the
whole cireuit of the globe, brought us over the New York Central
Railroad to our destination here at nine o’clock this evening, ex-
actly one year and two months from the day of our departure. We
entered the station by its eastern door-way. <A crowd of kind
friends and neighbors met us at the station, and attended us home,
where, in their behaif, Mi. Myers made an appropriate specch of
welcome.
Mr. Seward replied :
“ The words which you have spoken to me, and the pressure of
the hand which you have given me, are what I knew I might ex-
peet, and yet what I would willingly have avoided. I have taxed
my neighbors and friends so often and so long that I have begun
to feel that, when I go away, I would like to slip away trom them,
and to soften the sadness of parting as the nearest of domestic rela-
tions do when they part. And, when I come back, I like to go in
uvon them by surprise, and mect them in their accustomed walks
and ways, rather than to trouble them to come out to grect me.
“Still it is what has always happened to me in the course of so
many years. Whenever I have had occasion to go out of Auburn,
sometimes nearer and sometimes farther, sometimes upon errands
of duty, sometimes of study, sometimes of labor, sometimes of pub-
lie responsibility, and sometimes of private interest, I never was
suffered to part from my friends here without demonstrations of
their affection.
“Tt has often been my lot to come back among you. Some-
times from fields of achievement which have excited, or might ex-
cite cnvy—sometimes defeated and with mortification, somtimes
with domestic sorrow, which cannot be lightly spoken of, and some-
times with public anxiety which could not be expressed—yet I
778 CONCLUSION.
have never come home without being received as a neighbor and
friend. ;
“Such neighbors deserve all the affection and all the gratitude
Ican give them. I can only ask you to believe that, in ail my
wanderings far and near, there has not been a day or hour when I
have not remembered them, and prayed God that what I might not
sa! be able to do for their welfare and happiness, might be done through
wy other agencies.
‘“‘ My friends, we are met together, I trust, not to part again.
I have had a long journey, which, in its inception, seemed !, many
to be eccentric, but I trust that all my ncighbors and friends are
now satisfied that it was reasonable. I found that, in returning
home to the occupations which were before me, I was expected to
enjoy rest from labors and cares which were thought to have been
oppressive and severe. I found that at my age, and in my condi-
tion of health, ‘rest was rust;’ and nothing remained, to prevent
rust, but to keep in motion. I selected the way that would do the
least harm, give the least offence, enable me to acquire the most
knowledge, and increase the power, if any remained, to do good.
“In the course of my wanderings I have seen, not all the na-
tions, but some of the nations, of every race on the earth. I liave
looked the whole human family in the face, and taken by the hand
and conversed with my fellow-man in his lowest degradation and
in his highest stage of civilization. I have found no nation so dis-
tant, and no race so low, that the character of an American citizen
did not secure to me, not merely safety, but also respect, considera-
tion, and affection. You may judge, therefore, whether in return-
ing to my own country I have less reason to love and honor it.
“My friends and neighbors, I have trespassed beyond your
patience and my own strength in speaking these words to you. I
give you my sincere and heart-felt thanks, and hope to-morrow, and
on early future days, to learn that happiness has been in all your
dwellings, and that all the enterprises in which you are engaged
have been crowned with success, as I know there wiil be at all
your firesides, during the long winter before us, the same affecticn
and friendship which have been the great happiness of my life.”
fel 2D ALISUZAIN|
ed
w
1 as a neighbor and
nd all the gratitude
‘eve that, in all my
day or hour when I
hat what I might not
ight be done through
t, not to part again.
tion, seemed ++ many
tbors and friends are
nd that, in returning
me, I was expected to
thought to have been
age, and in my condi-
remained, to prevent
way that would do the
e to acquire the most
pmained, to do good.
-e seen, not all the na-
on the earth. I liave
and taken by the hand
Hwest degradation and
found no nation so dis-
f an American citizen
also respect, considera-
pre, whether in return:
love and honor it.
espassed beyond your
hese words to you. I
d hope to-morrow, and
s has been in all your
hich you are engaged
there will be at all
us, the same affecticn
ypiness of my life.”
BISCAY
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MAP SHOWING MR, SEWARD’S ROUTE THROUGH
sorklny ey, L.Lop N
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. SEWARD'’S ROUTE THROUGH ASIA, AFRICA, AND EUROPE, ‘
:
:
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Absi
Abyi
A. C.
Aden
Agra
Alba
Alask
Alas}
Alber
Albug
Alcod
Alder
Alex:
Alex
Alex:
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Alps,
Altai
Ame
Amer
Amer
Anto
Apoll
Apple
Arcot
Arcot
Arabi
Arab
Ariad
Argyl
INDEX.
Absalom, tomb of..............006- 648 | Armenian merchant....... Ehieaoes 374
Abydos ....... pOidierehcevesep eset é 568-578 | Asceticism......... ccc cee ee ee ee cee 485
A. C. Farnham & Co....... 0.0.0.0 276} Aschmann, Captain................. 744
AGONY 655 caisson oe Se Mees ...+. 511-514 | Ashuelot, U. 8. steamer..... 124, 125, 228
ABYD 5 soc cistend pnts. iié aves Aa eeeiesae 420] Assouan. ..... cece ee cee eee eee 601, 602
Albar, Emperor........... voes 421-482 | Athions. ...0605cs0 0000 sddesiera 679-684
ALASE Mapai cba si b5Fe8 oe wel bie ie ; 385 Auburn, departure from......... vee oS.
Alaska, steamer ....... 0... eee eee 245} Auger, General, kind attentions of.... 10
Albert, Prince... cc. eee sia cee nes 390 Augustine Heard & Co..........0.05 276
Albuquerque......... seeeceeeesees 495 | Aurengzebe....... siete a Wun steers gees 448
Alcock, Sir Rutherford........... .. 152) Austria, remarks on....... wee. 721, 728
Alden, Timothy... ..... 0... ce eee WET AONOE MINS aos, 25. 3 ace AW eal otk 29
Alexander the Great. ..... .. 484) Azhar, Mosque of....... sieidhard eons: gan 553
Alexandria... .... cece eee ee eee 617-621 |
Alexandrian Library ............6.. 622 | Baboo, a Hindoo...... socecerena wee. 882
Ali Murad Effendi.................. 580 | Bachelor, Captain...............086 79
een soars ach atti eek bane ean 418,477) Batley, Mt... ccs scteveerererves 252, 27
ALPS ith seis ase ec, sie sretrdeora ina haace 742 | Bancroft, Mr. oo. cee eee eee eee ee . 766
Altai Mountains ................085 182 | Band Ong siieiisedte eagenais ane seesaw 828, 328
Amenophis IIT... ..............0005 590 | —— Regentof.......... eee ee ee 324
Americans in Heypt............ 545, 546) Bannermen, Chinese.............. . 158
American legation at Yeddo........ - 58) Banoo Begum........... cess ee eee 435
—- officer is. Turkish service....... 700 | Barrackpore........... .- 898
—— officers in Egypt.............. 620 | Barrow, General............ TeYGaee 419
Antonelli, Cardinal ............ 731, 782) Batavia............. seeeecees B04, 808
Apollo, steamer .............6. 656, 657 | Bayard Tayler..............0.. 447, 451
Appleton, Mr... ... ee eee cece eee eee 763 | Beardsley, Mr., U. S. consul...... ... 627
ADOT ci.chchoieaied-seainieed eevee 865, 866 | Bedouin Arabs......... 00. e eee ee 528
Arcot Mission...... . 871) Beebe, Mr........... 06 223
APBD So dieirecia te wiuteaieda’, Gewders 510 | Behar, steamer. .......ee eee ee wo. 342
Arab kinduess to animals......... «+ 566) Belgium... ccc. cece ceesesceevcees . 765
Ariadne, Marryat's vessel........... 620 | Bell, Admiral... ... 00... eee eee ‘ 90
Argyll, Duke of... . cc ccc cee cee ee 876 | Bellianeh..... 0... ee eee eee ... 568
6
é
:
0
"tl
i
0
Q
fC
"80 INDEX,
PAGE
Benares .......cecvereecesseee 402-416
— Maharajah:of
Bengal, Bay of.....
Benzoni
Bergh, Mr...
Berlin
Berthemy, M.. 152,
Bertinatti, Signor
Bethany
Betts Bey 23, 568, 618,
Bethlehem 645-647
Bettos, Japanese foot-boys 74. |
Beust, Count 720, 721
Bhan Daji...........cceee00e. 488, 489
Birds, Caleutta
Birthday, Mr. Seward’s seventicth.... 577 |
Black Hole, Calcutta.............8- 893
Blacque Bey 402, 7
Bliss, Dr
Bogue Forts..
Bom Jesus, Chureh of, a Gon
Bombay
Bosporus, the 697-709
BOStOR Si. 6c6 ay seie-'g: sey 370. ues cig a eH. & 381
Botanical Gardens, Batavia........
Bradley, General
Bramin beggar, a..
Bridges, litigation about
British and [rench in China
British hospitality
Bruce, Sir Frederick...
Buda-Pesth
Buddha., ;
Temple of. ofeidyiace ters ieiediaie iegiaia ere .
Buddhist temple and bonzes in Japan.
Buddhists in China...........,..... 174
Buddhism, Chinese.,........... 268, 264
. 809
276
Bulwer, Sir Henry 619, 620 |
Burne, Major 2. 379 |
Burlingame, Anson.... 109, 145, 148,
153, 158, 184, 185, 217
Busteed & Co...... ,
Butler, Mr., a colored American
Byculla Club........ oe
— Mr. Seward’s speech t0....
PAGE
. 683, 614
Caloultai. cccvecr dace seeeeense 379, 881
California, caprices of civilization
Caliphs, tombs of
Calvary ..
# | Combod eRidisiedaveieesaciauce aren WOU
Queen of....... eiealhaxedvereaereten aU
| CambysB .....cceseeccecceeereees B88
499
a. of ae
Canal, Great Chinese...... oes» 181, 242
Canton 2538, 278
HBHOCOG bac aiesicce vice ees eae ve vi
Cary, ANG: ccc eieeincis 5 6a! 6 alsa aierelans 5
Cascade at Bandong
Caste in India..
Cataracts of the Nile
| Cauveryrak
Cavour, Count. .
Cawnpore
Cedar Rapids, an inchoate
Cemctery at Assouan......
Cesnola collection ............. €66, C67
| Ceylon 646-848
| Cham-Ping Chow ..........e ee eeeee 211
Chee Foo... ... eee ee eee ee eee es 120, 121
Cherif Pacha...
| Cheyenne. ...
Brittan, Miss. ..........+..... 400, 401 |
Brown, John P 686-688 |
|
Chicago, a marvel of progress
China, agriculture of..............6. 138
its national flag
—— materialism in...
— deities of
—— diplomacy of.
—— Romanism in
— civilization in, Mr. Seward’s re-
marks ON... ... cee ee eee eee 280-288
Chinese Americans,....
ma DADS cece ete cece teen tes 205
— banquct
— boudoir
CAINNOE sida cis vase oie eie ores wees 155
—— CATHIAZES, Coe cece cece eee ew eeees 190
— civilization 280-288
— cmigration........ 275, 276
Civili:
Clive,
Cockb
Cochir
Coles,
Coliset
Cologn
Colora:
Colorec
Colossi
Concer
Conces
Confue
PSE,
Constai
cl
Cook,
Copts,
Colum
Compr:
Cornwa
Council
Council
Cunning
Cyprus
Daibutz
Dak, th
Dalling,
Dancin
Danube
Darwin,
Dashur,
Day, Ics
Decima,
PAGE
. 688, 614
gw ge wai 1
ee O79, 381
ition... 29
cece ese Wa 551
658, 639
. 289
. 291
588
-calesiew Aue
pming..... 12
6
ppree eeleeee 563
oy) : ) 949
~9O OF
258, 278
275
O05
329
360
jievelwieie ieee 606
O67
VE)
419
Pr es
ae
646-848
211
re
545
280-283
eeeeee
hoe eee
Per et Tet eed ch
eee rreee
. 275, 276
INDEX. 781
PAGE PAGE
Chinese empercr’s summer palace.... 192 | De Long, minister to Japan, 40, 53, 69,
wom funotal..ccccceersnceeaseoncns 141 | 79, 83
sasaaeeis TPT so vo tiie cat dob Lea ole telaecacenatrnite 211 | Delmonico of Yeddo, the............ "1
Jong nails... ... eee eee ee eee ee 164 | Dutch steamer, O.......00ec eee 298-803
—— returning home..........06. .. 82 | Dwarfs, Javanese...... wee. 326, 381, 832
— tablet hall............... wee. 172) Delaplaine, Mr... .... cee eee ee ee eee 720
Temple of Buddha........... 9 IE |) DOM vrdineeress eshave dace saatne’s 441-451
—— theatvicals........ ..e. 238 | Delos........ dabiniarsiatezeadetsfaeiara sarenh ie 673
—— wall. ........00e 188, ‘198, 292, 203 | Delta of Egypt... .. cee eee eee eee 616
Chin-Kiang........6+ cveeien cee 22%, 244 | Do Montholotins i000 ccc eevee oe 152
CURIS ya: o ba a8 gael olviens G8 a a9 220 | Dendera, Temple of............ 575-577
Chin-Wangti.......... dale rbtenicieiees 206 Lervishes, dancing....... veeees 553-555
Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen... 109, 113, | Detroit......... BOSC UDC Smee
185, 214, 215 | De Trobriand, General . iis cantierstersts aeons LT
Citadel of Cairo... .. ec cee eee ee ee 546 | | Dogs, Chinese... ..... cee cee eee eee 126
Civilization of the Mediterrancan, 738, 789 | Doorga, the monkey-god............ 415
Clive Lord ec. csciasa aire ee ne eo 361, 366 | DOW, MY vieeiicets.sragecte ede aica’s ace 232
Cockburn, Admiral........ 358, 487, 516 | Drouyn de Lhuys, M....... wees 758, 759
Cochin China.............0000- 284-291 | Dutch colonization................ . 322
Gilets Mieco fscec vaeatesoseahs vee 182 |
Coliscum, the........- sajeien alone 423, 730 | Eden, Calcutta ............ sinaya ones 388
QOL seiese cece eie's edie s8 Wy beasie we 765 , Meho, a marvellous,............0005 242
Colorado, U.S. steamer, 107, 115, 225, | DOC xsai are navatn Yaae vena’ 600
245, 247 —— architect of .. Hae entees 600
Colored settlement at Chatham.,.... 6 | Edinburgh, Duke of, jeraidistedlee 4 ele 225, 3845
Colossi of Thebes.............. 589, 590 | Egypt, population of........... 522, 53:
Concert at Calcutta......... ee eee 396 | Egyptians, ancient.............. 623, 624
Concessions, Foreign, in China....... 107 | Egyptian kings, tombs of ........... 592
Confucius ......... 0. eee eee. 179, 180 | TONGS oi dss sists Snerale dae’ 3 547, 548
PONE Ol c5vna co escteaatetaas 176 | E. J. Sage & Co..... die haan toais 276
Constantinople, arrival at... ....... O85) TAK 8G: v.5:05 ceicsecad ones serene 648, 644
charms of,...... seeeeees 689-692 | Elcho............ SasaSte ceragr 4 Vea sie 24, 25
Cook, Captain............6. i sesivavets 621 | Eldridge, M5: ae acoraneie Wiel ovbtal cela .. 404
OCOpts, tes. 5050s cciae be ae dpie's civ g dee 549 | | Ele phanta...... seud-soolerdara deat - 488-491
Columbia, steamer ...........6. wee. B46 | Elephantina, . MS Ray ade Casa wees. COL
Comprador, Chinese.......... veeees 246 Elephants at Putte aol. 455, 461
Cornwallis, Lord ...........6.. 361, 862 | England, rural life in........ dieterinyans 773
Council Bluffs... .. 0. eee eee eee eee 8 | English and Ameiican socicty....... U74
Council, Legislative, of Madras ...... 362 | Epaulets, influence of............065 13
Cunningham, General.......... j AAS | HPNGRUB) 0 Maaeve ncdecesevanes 668-678
Cy Pili cceeineccews Ur re seq OOD) Banh ceca enueoseass aw .. 597, 699
Kugénie, Empress........... . 539, 545
Daibutz, statue of Buddha ,......... 51 | —— escape of ...........0005 760-768
Dak, the ........... sieeee yea allescien eons 444 | Evans, Dr’... (asada 760-763
Dalling, Lord......... sanwecvade se O18
Dancing-girls, Javanese... . 880, 831 | Farnham, Mr., U.S. consul, Bombay.. 482
Danube River.........0...065. 718, 719 | Fellahs of Egypt.........05..0+0... 565
Darwin, ais theory........0-+.eeeee 480 | Finkelstein, Benjamin........ aT 627
Dashur, Pyramids of........- 0.0065 612 | Firman, Sultan's, to Mr. Seward...... 633
Day, loss of 0... 1 Lee ee ees ...+e. 984 | Fisheries, Northern treaty for,..... . 86
Decima, island of ..........+5 secoee OF | Bitz, Mri ccc cee 235-237
Ce
Zavuart: oo
¢
:
f
0
Hl
if
)
782 INDEX.
PAGR
Fitzgerald, Sir Seymour......... 482, 484
Florence ..... 00sec eee ee eeeee 725, 726
Flotilla, Mr. Seward's, on the Pei-ho,
127-129
Flowery Forest Temple, Canton...... 262
Forbes, Murray covsieee QBL
Formosa, island of 249
Forte, H. B. M. ship 358
Fort St. George 861
William
France, condition of 47-749 |
Franco-German War, near approach of, 8%
Franklin eb weijerite. AOL |
|
Fraser, Mr. and Mrs... 226
Freeman, William.... 10, 80, 81, 140,
144, 209, 225, 465, 466
French affairs... 1.02.0... 0008 764
— Assembly. 52-754 |
and British in China 192
colonization in the East........ 289
inscription at Philo ........... 608
Furs at Pekmg
Fusi Yama
Galiatin
Galle, Ceylon
Ganges River
festival on
Geneva
Genoa....
Geoffroy, M
Gerolt, Baron
Ghizch
Gindy House..
Park, Madras... ....eee eee ees
Goa, excursion to......
population of
Gobat, Bishop
Golden Island
... 651, 655
Government House, Caleutta......
Grant, President, at Chicago
Mr...
|
Great Britain, Government of,... 772, 773 |
| India, secret of its dependence
| ——— government .........
Greece, modern
Greek architecture
language.......6.
Grévy, M......eee eens
| Hawes, Captain... ......
woeeee. 244 |
Goshen, land of .. 580 |
... 886 |
PAGER
Grey, Dr...sccccececeeeevenees 205, 270
Gyascutus, the .e.ceceseceeceereees BD
Hainan Island............eeeeeeees 284
Hamburg coeees 768, 769
Hamlin, Dr
Hammond, Mr.
Han River
Han-Kow.........
Han-Yan........cce cece eee es 285, 237
Harem of the Khédive 534, 555-557
of U.S. vice-consul at Thebes... 610
Hart, Robert............-. wee. 218, 214
Hastings, Mr., Mr. Seward’s old fricnd, 28
Hatuson, Quecn 587, 594
. 127, 223
Hay, Mrs.........000. mri
Heber, Bishop
Helena, Empress............
Heliopolis
Herodotus. .
| TH. Fogg & Cor... cece cece cece ee ees
| Himalayas, first view of............., 4
a glance at
Hindoo girls’ school, Madras ..
Hoang-ho, mouth of
Holy Sepulchre, Church of 635-637
Honan Temple........ .......e00e, 261
| Tlong- Kong... cee eee eee ee 249-252
POMDLORS hy cnesie de wesw eaten 277
| Heogly River
| Horses, Japanese care of
| Horsford, Captain.......
veceeees 492-500 |
.. 458, 455, 465
Hue, Father ........cccceseececess 285
Hughes, Archbishop
Humayoon 444, 447
Humboldt ....... 0.0. cece eee ee ees 706
Hungary 712-718
Hurdwar
Tdol-worship, folly of
discontent with English rule....
— finances of.
scenery
ee
Cees
Bt gs!
SSeS stat ox re "tas ahs
=
SS ee
INDEX.
PAGE
India, opium..... Ar
—— history... ccc eceeeeeeee ee 448, 444
Mr, Seward’s remarks on leav-
Indians, destiny of.......
Inland Sea of Japan........--.
Interpreter, Japanese.......6-.
Ishtabashi, Mr.........
Island, a floating
oe : . “988, 23 Isles of Greece, the
783
25
PAGE
.. 404 | Jerusalom..........06. ceeeeee 629-655
population of........665 ceeeee GAT
Jesuits in Ching... ... cece eee ee eee 155
. 5606-510 | Jewell, Mr. ww... ec cee eee ees 295
Mr., U.S. consul at Penang..... 842
94 | Jew, an American........... (eee . 649
62 | Jews of Jerusalem............. 651-655
seeeeesees 79, 83 | Jews’ wailing-place...... vigcaeemeede 652
« 80) | SdGaD iisccreadeaeenes eeeseus wee B19
ceeeeees 673 | Jubbulpoor........ cc eee ee ee ee eee . 478
_ 684, 655-557
it Thebes... 610
Ismailia.... 523-627 | Juggernaut, car of....
Ismail Pacha, Khédive of Egypt. 526, 557 | Jugglers, Hindoo
Israelites’ passage of the Red Sea, 521, 522 Jumna, banks of the
Ttaly.. cos cesdedeeee
s old fricnd,
Salelibe nna Se .. 870
ins Suen a eas 462, 463
| Jumna, banks of the...... anid wy cg eens 471
eevee 724-741 | —— Musjid,the............... 448, 449
Junk, Chinese,........... Raivta hes e¥eu 119
Jacobs, Mr........6.
Jade, Chinese
DANY stories ee ene grees
Japan, coast of......
. 879
260 | Kali Ghaut......
CC
er
Pr ee Oe
fea devabiedeg eee Old
627 | walka.........., Pepeajedeeleae oe 473, 476
wees 85) Kamakula, ancient capital of Japan.. 50
population of
—- “concession” to foreigners in...
—— people of
— costumes ..... sees
ee
re ee oe
eoeoeeerrere
ee
—— gathering of crops
—— laws about trees ....
— tca-houses........
— history of..........
—— Foreign Office ........
cre
—— especial reasons for prudence...
— Christianity in....
society and civilization..... 99, 104
Japanese ambassadors to the United
Pr a ee
Pr ee Se ee
States, their fate.........0%
— travellers .......
— populousness of....
ee ey
—— government.....
climate........
eee eesee
eeoee
ooeweeeree®
Pe
agriculture... ... 606
—— Dutch management of,.... &
323, 838, 340
Jay, John ....
Jehanara, tomb of
Jejeebhoy, Sir Jamsetjee,..........+ 488 | Lesseps, Miveesseeeeveeees O24, 525, 627
eoeeee
eeveeeses?
4) | Kanagawa, excursion to.
tenes, avarGuer Shaco 48
40 | Kang, Chinese... 0.0... cece cece ee 197
40, 49 | Kang-Hi, Chinese emperor.......... 155
GU) Rama sicisaxcarectgu devs 578-583
42 | Columns at... .... cece cece wees 584
AT’ Konneh ... cc. cece ec eee ee cee eens 611
47 Khédive of Egypt..... 526, 531-533,
48 18-615, 617
6-59 | Khédive’s yacht... ......0ce eee eee 621
59 Riahtaacaieccinvense itieea eee 161
74, Kiamil Pacha............. 689, 702-704
85 | Kiamil, Princess......-....0005 7038, 704
98, 99 | Kincob, manufacture of............. 415
Kinder, Captain ...... 0... eee ee eee 93
King Cotton ....... cee eee eee ee 48
78 | King, General... ....... 00. scasaiee ae 12
284 | Knapp, Charles... cc cece cece cece eee 523
KOSBUTIS: 5 cio ie.cisca dyere-g 8 vain dace aber 17, 718
| Kootub Minar, the........... .. 444, 445
Kublai-Khan......... aeefe,dieus| enaidceiiers 182
| Ku-Kiang...........- Shi tgrarcales shes 232, 241
Kung, Prince ....... cece cee eee eee LET
letter from... .. cece eae oa datatyy BG
—— interview with...... 4 eievns 216-220
Kussowlee,.....e cee e cree cece 473-475
Laboulaye, M....... cececcceees 226, 760
DAOC 45 4) 00-8 esa haces Ge paced eae ... 666
sfauneewa TOTO Laurens, Henry. .......ceee see eee ee 862
LevanOn 4.600% soies-s oS ae hnees .. 657
Le-ming-Che, Taou-tai of Han-Kow... 245
784 INDEX.
PAGE
Levantine stcamer.... 325 | Merivale, Mr......... Seven CES
Lincoln, Mr 361 | Middleton, Mr 128, 209
Lion-whelps..... ce eeeeeeeeeeeveses OF8 | Mikado, the, ,
Little Orphan Island ..............- 281 | —— palace of the
Little Stork Pagoda...........ceees 239 | seward's audience with, ..
London ..... 772 | Ming tombs, China 206
Louis XIV... .. cece cece ee ee ee eee e 748 | Miracle at Goa... ccc cece ee cere cece ADT
Louise, Sister . 212 Missionaries, American ............. 8
Low, Mr., 141, 144, 146, 152, 153, 156, eking 221
161, 184, 186, 218, 221 | Mogul Serai a 406
Low, Mrs. . 216 | Mohammed Tauphik 545
LOWG, Mv icsissncecvecesecs 821 | Mongolians, the ..........eeeeeeee 202
Loyola, Ignatius............+++ 155, 496 | Monkey, a tippling 567
Lucknow ........64. Ceadeeve wrens . 419 | | Monkeys, thieving, their malice . 481
Ludlow Castle wee 441, 451 | | Montagu, Lady bls Wortley, letters
Luke, tomb of.... 669 | of. ahaa 687
Luxor .. 578, 582, 610 | Montholon, M.. . 758
628 | Montrose-on-Hudson.........0000++. 776
750 | Mormons, The........... 18, 19
Mormon polygamy........+eee eee 22, 238
Madras ; 853 Tabernacle
surf ate... veeeeesess OFF | Mosque of Mchemet Ali..
Mahmoud of Ghuznee ... . 423 | —— Pearl.......
Canal .... 617 | Mount of Olives,
Major, Captain...... 495 | Muir, Lady..
Malacea, Straits of............. 299, 843 | Sir William
Malays...... A -3802, 339 | Mule, an excited,....
Mamelukes, weapons of............. 546 | Music, Hindoo 368, 864
Mandarin precession, a 108 | Musician, a Japanese seve 12
Mangum, Mr. and Mrs............... 99 Myer, Governor-Gcneral of tive: 314, 818
Manockjee Cursetjee 484 Myt-Rahyneh .............068, Hiae
Marco Polo.... ‘uae eas BUR
Mariette Bey. .. G42, % G08 | Nagasaki... ..........0.00006 98, 96, 9
Marmora, Sca Of. .......0.ee eevee ee 684 | Names, historical and geographical.
Marryat’s ship Ariadne..... 620 | Nanking...........
Marsh, Mr....... eb bois : 725 | Nan-Kow, China
Martin, Dr................ 216, 219, 220 | —— Pass...
Mita cidcdevereregy cvevenevtes BSD
a 879 AOC ceveeee OO4
——— Bark... ...cccecceees 379, 881, 805 Bese cachoe we le bint , 353, 854
ects: HEN OF NOE cars: sates Gace 477 | } ENOTES OO
McAlister, Mr......... 379 | Napoleon I.......... ee eee ee ee cece 748
McAlpine, W. J........ veseeees 707 | Nautch-girls .. : 370, 407
Medéenct Haboo.. ‘ , 599 | Necker. .
682 | Nectanebus....
452 | Nederlanden, Koningin der..... 298, 299
Memnon......cccccccccaccsceccces 590 | Neilgherry Mountains ...
Temple of... ..ccccsesenes 570 | Nerbudda, a night-voyage on the
Memphis... 618 | New York, arrival at..........
Menes........ MaaRE eee sD Western,.......04- :
Mercier, Henri, Mt nates hats 758 | Niagara Falls .......secessees sees
:
Q
*
f
;
LEVHuaTt CUZ
PAGE
Sesencioues
128, 209
56-5
9
60
with... 79-84
lice... eee 481
. 18,
Joo ee eeeer®
co eeereeer®
f Java. 314, 318
618
see ee 96,
beraphical. .
eoreeee
eoeeeeereree
Pee Be PX ed
eee reeooeer ee?
eeeveeeeee?®
19
478
heC
12
98
195
. ae . 6Ol
dev ...e- 298,
299
INDEX. 785
PAGE PAGH
Nile, thes. i ceccesoendevseecane 562-615 | Pe-chee-leo, Gulf of........ 117-121, 224
Cataracts Of ...ceceeeeeeeeeess 606 | Pei-ho, River , sees 228, 124
—— native mode of crossing......+.. 609 | Peking, first sight of..... ee neee ocoe JAl
Nippon-bas, the fumous bridge. .... 66-68 | —— Mr, Seward’s entrance into..... 14
Nomenclature of mountain scenery. . 15 | wall of, aeadee en hecbedengs G06) MO
Noubar Pacha... ce see eee eer ere eee . 545 | —— foreign population of. eee 149, 151
Nourmahal, the light of the harem... 485 | —— Legations at........ ceeeee 151-158
Nubians. ... cece ee eee cece ese ee eee GOD | ——— palace ings. ceccee ee eee seen ees 180
: DIPGMIRG:. ceainecasieene donne Hes 181
Obelisk quarry at Assouan........6+ GOL | 5, Se vecaaitids
ae \ , Pella, Mr... sscseceeeveves 805, 807, 311
Ocean Banner-Temple, Canton...... . 26 7 ; . O46
vo, | Penang, island Of ......eeeeee eee eee O4B
Olga, Queen of Greece... ... eee ee es 684 Pepin, Kin yr
j , Beever eeerreeevves eoveee (0
Oliphant & Co.......csceeceeceeees 276 | A i eRe ep bids
Peruvian bark in Java........ deieaierd 333
Omaha, characters abo. cee. eee eee 8-10 | |, Ki ;
; | POBUD si cede eececeaets ceeccceeee G14-716
Omar, Mosque Of... cece ee ee eee 640-644 | |, 5
q 2 PRGYO8 esiecca:sreawiitereee Carausaue ie parce CFL
On, Cty OF... ceccerseerveseccenne . 644) 2, . :
eh! : Tage |e LLLOD oie dceseieid orendie ods Gare bob yaoi 605-608
Opium in India... cee eee eee ee eee 404). -
. Siang at Philippine Islands ............. coos 205
Opium-smoking in China,.........6. 268 | J, ‘ ;
ri Phoenix, the Arabian............0.. 644
Ord, Governor of Penang . . 842) 1, ss
;, | Photographer, a Chinese............ 166
OPBOVA fivecicie devise ee buleteaeaw as 7,63 4, rey
» | Pigcon-English ......... ee eee eee ee 223
Osaka... cscrecencces seveees 88, 90-98 4, ‘ : :
ae : 395 Pilate, palace of... ... 6... ec eee C40, C51
i ee ss
Bihicnn af 95, 807 Pillsbury, Mr... ccc ee eee ee eee es LOD
Ne os ae ye : | Pindarric....... seveceeee 492-476
Pacha at Cairo, conversation with. 615, 616 | Plymouth Raok: ate OMCr,....0es 226, 245
Pacific mail line steamers........... 31 | Poct, a Portuguese, at Goa.......... £00
Pacitic Ocean....... 5 seeeeee Ol | Pocts, Chinese...........065 weeeee 160
Page, Mr., U. 8. consul at Port & Said.. 622 Point de Galle... .......... weaitie 7 346
Pagodas, Chinese... ..... cece eee eee 136 | Politicians at Omaha............... 9
Palace, Imperial, at Delhi....... 449, 450 Polygamy in Egypt and Utah.... 557, £38
New, at Constantinople,... 700, 701 | Pompey’s Pillar. .........0000. G19, 620
Palestine, impressions of........ 658, 665 | Pondicherry ...........- eae dale dane 349
population Of... ... eee eee eee 662 Poon-ting-gua’s villa... .... eee. 265, 266
—— invaiers Of....eceecee accel gh be 663 Pope Pius IX............. sevee 182, 736
—— religions Of... .ceeeese ese ceees 659 | Porcelain Tower, the.......e eee eee 229
——- Women Of... . ce cece eee ee ..+. 662 | Port Said. ......... shatowaoeles 21, 622
—— regeneration Of ....... ee eee eee 664 | Portuguese Empire........ seen ees 499
—— improvement in,.......... wee. 665 | —— courtesy........... sees eeeens 500
—— missions In... .. ec ee ee eee eee .. 665 | sottlemont, Madras..........4- 872
—— telegraphs and railroads in..... 665 | Po-Yang, Lake...........0eee ee eee 281
Palikao, battle of... . ec eee eee eee ee 140 | Prawiro da Kedya........... weeee B21
Panch sede these insscaveson ase ... 427, 429 | Preachers on steamer China......... 3l
Pariahs . Chin. WAre-eidist gees aihc0% sees OTD | Prime-minister, Japanese ........+.- 81
Paria ...... : weeeeees T47 | Provence, steamer... ... eee e ee eee 284
Parker, Thoodore, tomy Of, ibieelure sia be 727 | Prussia, hist srical sketch of..... 466, 767
Parkes, Sir Harry, British minister to Ptolemy Philopater..............-. 600
JAPAN voce cece cree ees voveee G6, 194 | Pulpit Rock ......ssceccessesvesee 36
Parsees, the ...... Poe OCR 484-487 | Pumpelly, Mr... cece eee eee eee 190
Parsons, Major... ccc csee ee eceees 475 | Putteenla,......ccsececcnceees 454, 470
Passengers on steamer Java......... U5 Maharajah of..... 388, 458, 460-4€2
Passports. ..... 2c cece eee slolecetovovsiest 443 Prined: Of. occ csv cc cevewe ses 467
Patna... ... cece eeeeeereveceeeees 405 | Pyramids, the.... cevreee 699, 548
fA +£D ALISUAAINN
TF
_—
AevHzar: cot
786 INDEX.
PAGE
Quarries at Assouan,.............6+ 604
Radhe, Adhepathe..............+.. 828
Rahden, Sulch-, Javanese prince...... 838
Railway, East India............ 408, 404
Madras and Arcot............. 865
Ralsto:, Mr., entertainment by,...... 28 |
ROMO i dehetondacee ear Seabed ONE
Wis cciviortinsersice toxin Cen]
— sacophagus of.............2.. 683
TOMD Of, pcicdaiie siess buvawe dais s 08"
Ramesis III, temple of............. 695
Ramlch............06- teres 627, 628 |
Randall, A. W........... 4, 95, 115, 226
Ranepet...... ccc. ce cee sees eee 366, 367 |
WADKC DPC cava dasaeascavesswners OOo
Road, MPs iiscsvanvne seve emer s so MOBY
Red Jacket, aneedote of . seimecseae OM]
Red Ma Wbvoch ae caer np 519-522 |
Rehfues, Baron, German minister at |
BORN R55 S:i4c5 s-saateuais’s wanes
Remusat, Mew... . ccc cece cece seen e G52
RGNOs cisscecie 0d So adocaredsa go eden BO
RhOdAa cs: sees Geinead ade vies 560, 611
Riberio, a Portuguese poct.......... 600 |
Rice eutivation in India............ 868 |
Nisley, Hanson A... cee cee eee ee eee 4!
—~ Miss... ce. cece eee eee ee 148, 144 |
Robert Collcze... cc... ee ee eee 695, 696 |
Roche"ort, Count, French minister at
POKIN. «sg ircesins ody d-scoacoromy LD8|
Rocky Mountains, uses of... avene
Rodgers, Admiral..... 107, 110, 115,
120, 121, 127, 155, 160, 208, 209,
218, 219
Rodman, Mr.......-eeeeeeeee2. 128, 200
Romanism in China............ 212, 218
Rome,...... eK ceweeee ee T27-788 |
Church of, in China........... 154
Rose, Mr. wo... ec ee cece eee ees 202, 241 |
ROK vvisescocoscsecvsvervosves
Rublee, Mr... ccc cece cs eeceevcees 144 |
Russell & Company...... . 107, 251, 255
Russia, relations with China, seeeeeee 158
Russian minister at Peking...... 151, 15
PUY OCS since s:esed 60 80.0. 0000 6-00lvie sou ae
i
co
Sacraments, Ansel Ovsisecsivcsvens 27
Said Pacha. MOYER RITE CTR ey
Saigon city. coees 287, 288
ee
— River, mouth Oi crereedovsress 266]
PAGE
Saint Thomas, apostle.............. 510
Sakkara, Pyramid of........... 560, 602
Saladin... .... cece eee e ecw e een e ee 046
Salina, Augusta...............6-.2- 590
Salt Lake City... .... cee eee eee eee 17
San Francisco. ...........ee00+.. 28-80
Sao Januario, Viscount do.......... 495
Sarnath, Buddhist ruins at.......... 410
Saws, Japanese Minister of lorcign Af-
fairs... .... cece ee seees G15, O17, 619
Science, Hall of, at Pcking......... . 154
Schofield, General.................. 29
Schung Hao, Chineso stabaaundor. . 750
| Scudder, missionary........ onedaeeters ONL
Secundra............ coccseess 422, 483
Senter, Mri. cccceeeescccsececeee . 88
Separation, a settlement on the Rocky
Mountains........ Reese Send-ale wrnvers 13
Septimus Severus................-. 590
Scraglio............ Cecaiiilediewers ace OOB
| Serampore........cceceeeceecerees OOD
| Server Pacha, .......c..eeeeeeeeees 688
BW acahoa cea iasaatveronaie Olen
Seven Sleepers, the ................ 669
Seward, Mr., declines Javanese invita-
tion to a opeat banquet. saoeaes GS
his interview with Japanese fore
cign minister...........06- wees C1-65
gives qudtence at U.S. consulate. 43
— audience with seat, ae alsieeee, 10
—— opinions on France........ 115, 116
mects an acquaintance on the Co.
Lorado, ... ssc csescesesecesceeses 120
friendly reception at Tung-Chow, 139
— entrance into Peking........... 143
— audience of imperial cabinct.... 155
NA rece cece ereeeceeecee LOD
views on the Great Wall of China,
203, 204
discussion with Mr. Drew cn Chi-
999
nese affairs... .... 6 eee seb-cigeed ea Oe
assault on, at Han-Kow........ 240
speech at Kong-Kong...... oth, 279
— half-way round the woild,...... 545
— remarks on finanees of India,... 304
speech at Bombay.... see eens 501
remarks on India,......... 506-510
seventicth birthday... 6... 6000. OF7
ee with a pacha at Cai-
615, 616
romarles ¢ on n anclent ‘Bay ptians, 628, 624
i,
PY
rR
Sh:
She
She
She
She
She
Shis
Sho:
Shu
Sier
Silag
Silv
Sim
Sing
Siou
Siva
Sjiar
Slay
Smit
Smit
Smit
Smu
Smy
Soco
Som)
Soun
Sout
Sphi
Staer
Star
State
Stear
PAGE
Siesamea Ole
560, 602
vececeeee O4G
..» 690
ceveces 28-80
saosin SOR
acnee 400
Foreign Af-
. G15, 617, 619
issn: Bh
ie 421, 433
een acca (ee
n he Rocky
ee oe 309
ceceeeess 088
eves B72, 585
Leeda toutes 669
cancsc invita-
tisissd css poset 53
Japanese for-
pena Wereans (01-65
~S consulate. 73
AO ii canes 0
seed 115, 116
nee on the Co-
ed Sap prac ee
ht Tung-Chow, 189
Mfc ee ee eect 143
al eabinct.... 155
weeeeee 159
Wall of China,
205, 204
. Drow en Chi-
reer ee 232
> 9
AIKOW wee ee ee , 240
MN... eee 277, 248
yworld....ee+ O49
ag of India,... 5°4
cyasan DOL
, 606-510
a pace at Cai-
, 616, 616
aodel
». odd
t Eeyptians, 623, G24
INDEX.
PAGE | PAGE
Seward, Mr., firman from the Sultan.. 633 | Steamer China...................2- 8
impressions of Palestine ... 658, 665 | Stewart, U. 8. onal at Hiogd. eases 86
reception at Constantinople..... 685 Stone, Mrs......... ieaerthes 3 DOF
interview with the Turkish Sultan, | Story’s Cleopatra and Sibyl. wees 78
706, 708 BER oan vs <arvsrarewesccekiesua tes 592
s hee ae 522
remarks on Turkey.......
jinbuatton pabeaoene re savers. OB
reception at Vienna ........... 720 Canale... ccc. e ee ce ee eee 528-527
dinner with M. Thiers...... 755-758 | Sugar of Egy nb SoS ee G11
in Downing Street............. 772) Sultan, Abdul Migic ;
PObUP HONG ssc ss saver oeneares TIT 558, 610-612
speech at Auburn......... 777, 778 | —— Turkish, Mr. Seward’s interview
— G. F,, consul..... 107, 126, 128, 209} with. ........... 0.000.026. 706-708
Seana 687, 688
acha........ syastes
— Olive Risley..............000-. 4 Sumatra... ...... 0c e eee eee eee 299, 860
Shah Jchan............... 485, 487, 488 | Sunda, Straits off............. sees. 802
Shan-Tung, steamer... 115, 127, 228, 224 Surabaya... .........eeee eee es B18, 820
Shanghai...... cove ove 105, L1Q=018) 294 | SUsa.., cnc cesses ceeeaeg ve eeena ae V40
Promontory............+. 117,120 Swinging round the cirele......... .. 885
SHAVOMG ec eens deces mew nes weeeees. 625 Swiss President ............... 744
Sheba, the tombs of the Tycoons..... 65 Switzerland, politics of .. 744-746
Sheik, Selim Chisti,............ 426,427 —— a miniature America........... 744
Shen-Tajen, a Chinese poct.......... 220 Syrar.c cece cee ce eee ence ees O73, OF4
Shepard, Mr., U.S. consul at Yeddo. 40, 79
Sherman, City of ........... e000.) Lt
Shishak, King............0........ 687 Taj-Mahal.................... 435, 486
Shoshones, remnant of.............. 25 Taku.......... Mate wea ween te Leey Lee
Shumsh-oodcen-Aliamsh,............ 446 Tankoeban voleano...............,. 883
Sierra Nevada, ascent and descent of, 26, 27 Templars, Knights............. 724, 725
Silas E. Burrows & Co.............. 276 Temple of Agriculture.............. 170
Silver Island....... Vb Tigi why nel Bee of Heaven............ veoraecee 169
Simmons, Mrs....... cece ee eee eee 226 —— of the Great Bell, China. wees 191
Singapore... cocseecccceeces 205-208 Sir Richard .............. 898, 440
StCAMEL...... cece ve eeeeeecees GtL |) Tenno, see Mikado.
Siout......... poielew pedewin dee cess so: O00) THAMGS RVG ca caged sedsioece wanes . 771
Siva, Temple of. .....c. ee ee ee ee ee ee 892 Thebes .............. 578-585, 596, 610
Siiundjtoer, JAVA... cece cee eeeeeeess 820 Theodosius, edict of. 2... 607
Slavery, conservation of..........+.. 27, Thiers, Madame..............00086 755
Smith, Archer & Co., China merchants, President...
BBG). 276: TMs Me oe saree eaacareiee Batu eia ee key 766
Smith, Dro... .... cece eee eee eee eee 780) Thomas, Saint......... 0000 ees
Smithers, Mr.............eeeeee+++ 673 | Thoutmosis Il, and III.............. 594
Smuggling in China..........6....,. 254) Thousand-mile tree .......
SMA... ... ee ee eee cece ee eeee eee 667 | Tien-Tsien, massacre at.... 110, 114,
BOCOA .cocvcccvorsreneccccsesecss O10] 124, 125, 129, 181, 146, 212, 213, 222
Somnath, gates Of........seeeeeeees 428 | Tigh, Major... .....ceeeeeeeeee 458, 476
Soumalans at Aden... .......eee.066 515) Tilden, Captain, .......... cece eee 187
Southern Cross, the........+e0ee+e6 G11} Timber from Coren ..........005: .. 131
Sphinx, the... ...ceeeeeeeeeees O41, 542} Tinos........, a aed sealer OMG
Staompfli, Mie. ..e ccc eee eee e eee eee T45 | Tokaido, the Jananess hiahw NY... 48
Star of India, order of.............. 890} Tombs, Chinese, Mr, Seward’s remarks
Che deaaeseedyene MOT
States, new, influence of .......6.006 rr
Steamer America, mecting on the.... 382 | Ming, Chinas... sccceseeeees 206
Synagogue, American............... 658
G
z
:
0
:
*
4
tl
:
ti"
)
Q)
:
788 INDEX.
Townsend House, Ogden....
Travancore, steamer... ..... 6... sees
Tuckerman, Mr. U. S. minister to
Greece
Tung-Chow
Tung-Lu
Tung-Tajen, a Chinese poct........
Turkey, observations on
Turkish women
Tycoon, the Japanese ............ 58, 92
Tycoons, tombs of, at Sheba
Umballa
United States, progress of trade......
Universalists, Lincoln’s story of
Upton, Mr
Utah, a wonderful success
Validé, Princess ..... ar
Van Dyeliy Dri cannc- ate hana nce’s
Van Valkenburgh, U. 8. minister to
Japan
VOT cick HeCeaan See CON HET
Vasco de Gama
Venice
Venosta, Visconti
Verplanck’s Point.........
Veorsnthh0s.. scssc nave sae a
VCBLIVIUG 5 sceicin isa sans’s sree Wiedig oa eiewe
Via Doloresa. ..
Victor Emmanucl
VION so. dectisaawuieiod: banana ewe
Vindhya Mountains... ....... 0.000
Visigapatam, Maharajah of
Vlangally, General 31, 146, 151, 220
oo
haar
i)
-~T <7
eo
— -7] =F
~T
co ct st
vs)
TOs a
aT me RDS
ie 6)
me -T
vo So
Wade, Mr. and Mrs.........
Wady, a
Wahsatch Mountains. .....
Walsh, Mr... . ccc eee e ee eee ee 40, 80, 81 |
a ball at his house..........06 77 |
Wang, Captain 127, 128 |
157, 158, 188-186 |
115, 146, 246 |
Mis xaciestieiunseetenen 110, 114 |
Wan-Siang.....esese-
Warden, Mr...
Washburne, Mr 450, 768
Weber Cafion , 16)
BVO ids iaereberserwan oe
Webster and Adains, anecdote of .... 139 |
Welti, Mr,
Wessner, Miss......
Westropp, Sir M. R...
Whampoa
Wheaton, Chinese translation of
Wheeler, Licutenant
Williams, Dr
Wilson, Captain
Winslow, Admiral, hero of the Kear-
Women, Chinese, abasemcnt of......
Women, Turkish
Wood, Mtv... ccc cece cece eaee
Woolsey, Dr., daughters of.........
Woosung.. 105, 115,
Wu-Chang 235-287,
| Wurtz, Mr.....
Wyoming, Territory of..............
Xavier, St. Francis ..... wee. 98, 496, ¢
Yang-Fang, a Chinese pawnbrolicr,... 162
smoking-room
Yang-tse
Yang-tse-kiang River........... 226-229
Yang-tse-kiang, mouth Ohckaas 115, 116
Yeddo......ccescveee
— visit to
— how built........
— artisans, artists, and
turers
bay of, storm in
Yellow Sca.......-008.
Yokohama, arrival at
coos 1022, 24
eeceee 441, 451
. 295, 208
Young, Brigham
Colonel.........
Youssef and his donkey
Yuen-Min-Yuen, China 192-195
Yung-Lo, Chincse empcror.. 191, 207, 208
Yussef Effendi
Zachariah, tomb of, .
Zenana mission.....
Zemindars.....eee06. 808 © to writ
Zuaking, .occccvcesserse ( | «LACE,
F courag
THE END.
feckis eases 445
146, 184
te 1. C44
f the Kear-
§io6 OOO aces
_ 105, 115, 225
~ co]
_ 985-287, 289
ee 98, 496, 497
wnbroker.... 162
5 Pasarbiear eae nts 166
244
0 6 © OO. O.o FO O89
eee
heoeeerers®
and manufac-
Para oe
, 19-22, 24
.. 441, 461
ae
weer
599
640
648
Pee Soe ed
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HERBERT SPENCER, Esq., Zhe Study of Sociology,
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Prof. W. Kincpon Cuiirrorp, M. A., 7he First
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Mr, J. N. Lockyer, F. R.S., Spectrum Analysis,
W. Lauper Linpsay, M.D., FL. R.S. E, Mind in
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B, G, Bett Pettigrew, M. D., The Locomotion
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Prof. James D. Dana, M. A., LL. D., On Cephali-
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Prof. A. C. Ramsay, LL. D., F. R.8., Earth
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